This sir, was the answer to the question I had after years of doing touch-ups, going to HD for custom matches based on samples which rarely worked out. Have had an account with Sherwin-Williams who tries better, but still often takes several iterations to get it somewhere close. With all these frustrations on my belt, I had asked them: How do professionals do it? None of them replied and here you are now telling me what I suspected: Repaint the complete wall - edge to edge and charge for that. Thank you, Chris!
Friendly Tip! Great advice Chris! If I can ad something to this is I always use the same tools to touch up! Example, if you painted the walls with a roller, use the same roller. Feather it out. If you used a paint brush, use a paint brush. I also carry artist brushes for very delicate touch ups! When you are using spackling for small repairs, always keep it to the size of the repair. when filling. Ex, don't use a 4'' putty knife to fill in a nail pop! Always nice to tune into your professional videos. The gooseneck guy! Cheers!
Thanks as always, a true professional. I consider myself a decent DIY painter, then I realize I am doing all the wrong methods you described, but not the next time!
As a painter of over 20 years, touchups can be one of the most tricky parts of our industry. In the past I have used colorant kits and tinted paint by eye at the job. I generally bring a sample into my local store, after they get it as close as they can, I make small adjustments at the job. You can also buy one gallon of paint that is more shiny and a second one (generally the same brand and type) that is less shiny, mix the two until you get it just right. Unless the house is in nearly perfect condition, its usually not worth trying to touch it up. Especially if there are a lot of different colors and sheens throughout the house.
Thanks Chris, I remembered asking this question a few weeks ago,however,what if the portion of the wall was a bit larger? Let's say 4 inches by 4 inches
Great video! Was hoping to see my scenario demonstrated. Swapping light fixtures on recently painted bathroom. Color is Beth ultra pure white Eggshell. Old fixture base was rectangular in shape now it’s 4” wide circle. Sanded and primed area but wasn’t sure if I should now use roller as it’s about 5” wide x 7” high. Of course it’s on same wall as sink/toilet which is trickiest wall to paint normally. All walls were painted with roller about a month ago. Fixture change wasn’t planned or I would have done at same time. Any advice?
How would you re-roll the entire wall and not see a color difference near the ceiling and the baseboards if you didn't mask off and rolled it quickly? Wouldn't that not blend with the faded tops & bottoms?
So I myself tried to touch up a few spots. I used spackle. Then painted the couple spots and now from the side they are super shiny like you spoke about. What can I do now to fix that. I have the right color of paint but wrong sheen. Can I dab over it with flat paint the same color that has less sheen. Or sand it with a certain grit then dab with flat paint. What do you suggest without re painting the whole wall. It’s a couple small 3x3 spots that from straight ahead look great: from the side super shiny. Please some advice on how to easily fix this the right way . Thanks
I just painted my whole room perfect. Finish electrical happened and they made new holes. I just patched them up and have to sand and paint those patches. Is it worth priming? I just want to hit with two coats of paint and move on. At the end of a long project.
There are many reasons why touching up is preferable to re-painting an entire wall. This video is helpful to those of us for whom touching up makes sense.
I can’t tell for certain but some of those scuff marks look like they would come out with a magic eraser and it shouldn’t damage or lighten the existing paint at all when done gently.
We do not do touch up work on any job. We paint from corner to corner only. 32 years in business has taught me it never works right and if we can see it why would we expect anyone else to be okay with it. If someone says touch up work is all they want they are not our type of Client. We pass and move on to our true type of Client we should and do work for. Same for new construction builders pay for full wall repaints if any other Subs cause damage.
Just curious but what if someone does know how to color match so good that you couldn't tell the difference? Would you find that person valuable enough to hire for a service?
This sir, was the answer to the question I had after years of doing touch-ups, going to HD for custom matches based on samples which rarely worked out. Have had an account with Sherwin-Williams who tries better, but still often takes several iterations to get it somewhere close. With all these frustrations on my belt, I had asked them: How do professionals do it? None of them replied and here you are now telling me what I suspected: Repaint the complete wall - edge to edge and charge for that. Thank you, Chris!
Thanks for your view,I found the same lack of help. It's been a great video.cheers
Friendly Tip! Great advice Chris! If I can ad something to this is I always use the same tools to touch up! Example, if you painted the walls with a roller, use the same roller. Feather it out. If you used a paint brush, use a paint brush. I also carry artist brushes for very delicate touch ups! When you are using spackling for small repairs, always keep it to the size of the repair. when filling. Ex, don't use a 4'' putty knife to fill in a nail pop! Always nice to tune into your professional videos. The gooseneck guy! Cheers!
“Daub it up” sounds like a dance move.
I've got touch ups to do on Tuesday so this video is perfect timing, thank you!!
Thanks as always, a true professional. I consider myself a decent DIY painter, then I realize I am doing all the wrong methods you described, but not the next time!
God damn.. I could watch this over and over
That’s EXACTLY how I was taught to do touch ups & to never do brush strokes like many “pros” do! Great tip from a REAL professional! Thanks
This is very helpful in understanding why my paint is drying lighter.many thanks
Adding water to reduce the sheen is brilliant. Never would have thought of that.
As a painter of over 20 years, touchups can be one of the most tricky parts of our industry. In the past I have used colorant kits and tinted paint by eye at the job. I generally bring a sample into my local store, after they get it as close as they can, I make small adjustments at the job. You can also buy one gallon of paint that is more shiny and a second one (generally the same brand and type) that is less shiny, mix the two until you get it just right.
Unless the house is in nearly perfect condition, its usually not worth trying to touch it up. Especially if there are a lot of different colors and sheens throughout the house.
I have been painting from the age of 14 and I just learned something new! Thanks 🙏 MC CONTRACTOR..
@@mitchcohn1800 out of curiosity, which part was new to you?
@@USMC198907 I don’t remember the video, so I can’t answer the question. That was 9 months ago.
You're a huge help man. Always impressive seeing how much raw skill is involved with something anyone can do, and only some can do greatly.
really helpful video!
Thanks so much for all your videos they really help out
Thanks Chris, I remembered asking this question a few weeks ago,however,what if the portion of the wall was a bit larger? Let's say 4 inches by 4 inches
Great video! Was hoping to see my scenario demonstrated. Swapping light fixtures on recently painted bathroom. Color is Beth ultra pure white Eggshell. Old fixture base was rectangular in shape now it’s 4” wide circle. Sanded and primed area but wasn’t sure if I should now use roller as it’s about 5” wide x 7” high. Of course it’s on same wall as sink/toilet which is trickiest wall to paint normally.
All walls were painted with roller about a month ago. Fixture change wasn’t planned or I would have done at same time. Any advice?
How would you re-roll the entire wall and not see a color difference near the ceiling and the baseboards if you didn't mask off and rolled it quickly? Wouldn't that not blend with the faded tops & bottoms?
Awesome advice, thank you
Glad to help
daub and dry feather, thanks.
What about a spackle repair flashing through?
Awesome content
So I can feather it out on spackle too? I need to fill small holes in my walls
So I myself tried to touch up a few spots. I used spackle. Then painted the couple spots and now from the side they are super shiny like you spoke about. What can I do now to fix that. I have the right color of paint but wrong sheen. Can I dab over it with flat paint the same color that has less sheen. Or sand it with a certain grit then dab with flat paint. What do you suggest without re painting the whole wall. It’s a couple small 3x3 spots that from straight ahead look great: from the side super shiny. Please some advice on how to easily fix this the right way . Thanks
I am trying to touch up my wall with the original paint, but it is adhering to the wall, I can still see the area after it dries
U should have shown how the wall looked after all the dabs u did dried up in touch up
I just painted my whole room perfect. Finish electrical happened and they made new holes. I just patched them up and have to sand and paint those patches. Is it worth priming? I just want to hit with two coats of paint and move on. At the end of a long project.
Chris dood, you got balls doing videos an hour before your daughter’s wedding reception. But congrats to you, Lisa and the newly married couple!!!
Just repaint the wall!
He said that
@@pnwester2697 yes. I agree.
There are many reasons why touching up is preferable to re-painting an entire wall. This video is helpful to those of us for whom touching up makes sense.
Repaint the white wall for those small spots? That’s just stupid
Nice explanation, but I wanted to see how it looked after an hour.
Video starts 7:11
hi I had the same paint now the touchups are glossier any way to dull down the glossyiness
water plain
I can’t tell for certain but some of those scuff marks look like they would come out with a magic eraser and it shouldn’t damage or lighten the existing paint at all when done gently.
Chris I notice you always wear gloves. What gloves do you use? Thanks man!
Does the brush dabbing technique also work on smooth (non-textured) walls?
We painted a month ago and now have some marks from moving furniture etc.
Yes just don't clump the paint on too thick
Use a mini mini roller .
Thought you were John Cena in the thumbnail
How much should I charge to touch up someone else's work
What if the walls are smooth to do touch ups how do i do it?
Should be the same process. The dobing the brush eliminates brush strokes.
Same process as long as you don't clump the paint on too thick everything should be good
Thanks you for your help
We do not do touch up work on any job. We paint from corner to corner only. 32 years in business has taught me it never works right and if we can see it why would we expect anyone else to be okay with it. If someone says touch up work is all they want they are not our type of Client. We pass and move on to our true type of Client we should and do work for. Same for new construction builders pay for full wall repaints if any other Subs cause damage.
Just curious but what if someone does know how to color match so good that you couldn't tell the difference? Would you find that person valuable enough to hire for a service?
How about ceiling touch up. Seems like a big job to repaint the whole ceiling.
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Dob ? ? Or dab
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Wrong. Use the mini roller not a brush