This Cheap 3D Printer Makes Outstanding Models | Mingda Magician X | Unboxing & Review
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
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0:00 Introduction
1:45 Unboxing
6:53 Assembly
8:32 Automatic Calibration
10:42 First Tests
15:28 Early Prints
19:48 Improving Quality
20:37 Pros & Cons
22:28 Conclusion 
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More 3D printer content? This is gonna get interesting
I hope so!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains :D
Next: making an entire Sam to help on the layout
Heyy! There's an idea! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains you need to try that.
@@SamsTrains Perhaps a miniture Sam to do the uncoupling.
@@odinnln5694 I second this notion
@@SamsTrains u should make model train bodys for the chasis of any train and try making a custom train
A very good review, thanks Sam. I'm new to 3D printing. It was good to see the fine detail of the printed model close up. There is still the slight layering effect of the plastic, but with painting I expect that would smooth down. This looks like a good entry-level printer to get started with. One question please, - how to you get your 3d files or wagons etc? Do you scan original models or can they be purchased ready to print?
Cheers, Angus.
A fascinating new move into your recent 3D printer experiments that I am following with great interest.
Sam I’ve just thought of an idea that might fix you’re railroad 9F, maybe you could print a new chassis for the tender.
Just a thought but it would be cool to see a video on that project.
Ooh totally - that's a solid idea! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Could we see some buildings get printed at some point please? maybe a station or a shed
You know your right. He should try it.
That's a good idea!
Sure! That'd be fun to try for sure! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam
Thanks for uploading another 3D print video. Just wondering, comparing it to your first video on 3D printing. Can you use the same program to draw the models up on this new one? Or do you have to concert to another program?
Many thanks
Ben
The shape of things to come Sam, an amazing piece of kit...Bob
Interesting video. Looking into my first printer. May have to look out for these
Seems a really good machine and for that price also. Btw, I had the same exact issue with the protective plastic on the screen of my Ender 3 V2 that the plastic is pinched between the screen and the cover so could not get it off completley instead having to cut it with scissors leaving an ugly edge I cant get out from there in any way. Need to get the cover off in some way to remove it i guess. At least the machine works great. just like yours.
A very informative video - greatly appreciated!
Sam thanks for the review
I just backed the Kick starter and was starting to worry if it would be good or not because of the low price .
I decided on FDM instead of resin because of cost but mainly for increased bed size and ventilation and noise ,it will be in the living room of my condo and I don't want to bother my neighbors or die of the Resin fumes .
But thanks to you I think it should be great for my Traveller and D&D work
This is my first 3D printer experience ,so I am sure that was why I started to get nervous
Again TY for the great review
I have been looking at something like this, not for the rolling stock (in N I think a resin one would be way better) but for retaining walls and other buildings, platform sections and so on where I think it will be perfect.
Also for Scalextric bits
really helpful review
I saw a 3d printing video long time ago where the article he made was put into a container with some acetone next to it in a dish, after being left for a while the surface lines made by the printer dissapeared because the acetone dissolved the surface and made a smooth finish, Could be worth a try,
Acetone smoothing is used with filaments like abs.
You should try out resin printing, since it allows for much finer details than fdm printing. Also you might want to try filling and sanding your 3d printed models to remove layer lines and give it a smooth finish
HI Sam. would love one of these one of these but understanding the jargon would be bind blowing I noticed on some of the instructions you showed in the pamphlet abbreviations they take it for granted you know what they mean .dose 3d printer scan the item you want copy. great video Sam thank you.
Time to level up, Sam! Please do some buildings etc.
I'm definitely going to try! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Interesting. Are you able to reduce the thickness of the layers to increase the definition?
Awesome video today Sam might have to get one of these
I think the slight warping adds a degree of realism especially to that plank body. Real rolling stock certainly isn't millimetre perfect. Fascinated to see what you print next. Mk1 coach?
Good review Sam, looks like it's going to be a useful bit of kit. I may have to look in to this myself one day.
Thanks a lot Rob - they are worth their weight in gold, very handy! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Fascinating stuff! This is an amazing new dimension in modelling. Do all of the prints have that stratified look showing where each layer was added? Can they be sanded or filed to produce a smoother finish? Can you add rivet detail?
Thanks James! Yes there's quite a bit you can do to reduce the layer lines... and you can reduce the height of each layer too, which improves quality but obviously takes longer!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
As you get more proficient with 3D modelling, you'll learn what's good to print in one go and when to separate parts to print individually and then snap/glue together. Rivets don't resolve well if they're facing out on the x/y planes, but if they're facing up/down the PLA layering can deal with their resolution much more accurately.
@@coolersmoke Thanks for that explanation - it looks like there's a bit of a learning curve on 3D printing - but well worth the effort
I'm definitely considering getting one thanks your review.
This seems like a reasonable beginners printer based solely on little things like auto-levelling. I have a CR-10S Pro v2, and it has many of the same features at double the cost, but it does also have a larger build plate. I do wonder how the quality of the electronics compares. The X carriage power cable looks decent, but I wonder how that feed system, extruder stepper and stepper drivers will hold up with some use.
Time will tell!
This is great. I am considering the purchase of a 3d printer so all this info is really helpful.
Are you putting the M420 S1 gcode to the start of your prints? also, look into pidauto tune for the hotend and heatted bed to speed up the heating.
Could I suggest designing and building "coupling link converter" rolling stock? To deal with disparities in coupling heights or, perhaps, more interestingly,with US coupling at one end and UK at the other.
I'd your ever looking at other 3d printers could you try and look at the easythreed Minnie/nano. They are very cheap at £130 but are meant to be very good so I would be interested to see how they print. Great video Sam. Many thanks
That sounds very cool - thanks for the suggestion! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Really enjoying the 3D printing videos your making, would make for an interesting video if you make some O Gauge models made in the future
And another one . Great video sam.
Thanks very much!! :D
Would you be able to share your print settings for this please? I picked this machine up the other day and have gotten it close but I just can’t seem to get it like you did.
Hi Sam, great video with some good tips on set up, my question is how to fit wheels on the printed wagons ? I have had some problems with the axle box frames breaking of trying to fit axles in, what would you suggest, Warming the chassis up in warm water To make them a little more flexible ? Any help you could offer would be much appreciated.
Paul
Thanks for uploading this intresting video about the mingda 3 d printer.
It has had helped me a lot in choosing witch one of two models i am going to buy.
I liked your new wagon and body print and the tank wagon.
👍👍🇸🇪🇸🇪👍👍👍
Last time when you said you were in the pool in the garden, was it the one that the Heljan Tango ran in?
Nahh it wasn't - that one burst sadly!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
You should definitely try to print one of those spark shot engine molds if you wanna make more interesting lookin engines
I bought for £40 a customer return Flashforge Finder, the only faults being the X and Y endstop switch boards are damaged and bought a pack of six endstop boards for £6 as everything else works beautifully... I'm very keen to make some model rail stuff up as well as stuff for my watch work.
Interesting video Sam, really quite informative.
Is it possible to reduce the 'ribbing' effect - limiting needs to trim manually?
Is that simply adjusting the time and temperature? Answered in the main at the end.
Can you print the wagon bodies with more-acceptably thin doors - they look about 2mm thick on your trials?
Is this too weak / difficult to print when thinner? You did mention 'warping', so I suppose this is a possibility when pushing the envelope.
Interesting.
Thank you.
Al.
Hi Alan,
Yes those are the layer lines - this printer *can* produce models with very thin layers, but of course they take longer... so everything printed in this video was done at 0.18mm layer thickness... whereas it can do 0.08mm and lower! Alternatively, you can spray models with filler, or bath them in acetone which will help to hide the layer lines!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
my fave for fixing prints to the bed especially on glass beds is hair spray, and it cleans up REAlly easily with Alcohol
You should try resin printing, they’re supposed to be great for modelling
AGREED. as you tend to print smallish stuff a cheap resin printer (under £200) would be ideal. the quality of resin printers is amazing......a sub £200 resin printer will easily print higher quality than a £1000+ FDM printer
@@TDax Due to one of my friends highscools large suplly of resin printers cause no one else can get them to work he played around and was resin printing small replacement parts for one of my models. afterpainting you couldnt tell what was new or old.
They do look amazing - I might one day, but I don't have any ventilation, and it's a bit messy!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
No I wouldn't bother it's not good for trains.... I own a resin printer and trust me it's not for playing ... great for scale models where you paint and place on a shelf and never touch it. Something that vibrates and could get knocked .....nah your setting yourself up for pain.. but for scenery stuff yeah man do it
@@vasili1207 try adding a little flexible resin to your standard resin.....You can end up with a an unbelievably tough print.
I am impressed with the models produced. Yes you can see the layers at the high magnification, but when you've enlarged an 00 gauge model to 21" monitor size you're gonna see that!
I think I might understand the random small shifts in the Z axis between prints that appear to be a common user observation. My touch screen is not just randomly apparently unresponsive - but often acts as if a nearby icon has been pressed instead. One of these is the Z height adjustment which I believe I saw it do instead of "back". If not this root cause - then certainly a problem. A more visible muddy footprint case is "Runoff On/Off" toggling. Sorry for all the posts but it is a likely place new users will look for pointers.
I would recommend using a layer of Blue painters tape over the print bed, rub it down with a cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol. This should help get prints to stick better to the print bed, some people like to use hairspray on glass beds, I wouldn't recommend this because it can gum up parts over time.
I don’t know why but Sam confidently talking about 3D printing stuff/terms is kinda off putting…
I like it!!
haha appreciate it!! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam, are you able to share any of your STL files, be interested to see how your models print on my £700+ Original Prusa MK3S+ and what the difference is in quality!
My Magician X assembly didn't go smoothly. Mingda support were very helpful and quick.
One of the large screws wouldn't engage. It's a deep hole - at the bottom the case plastic and support metal holes didn't line up. After some perseverance the screw finally engaged.
The pack also contains two small screws that are not mentioned in the manifest or instructions. They fit in the plug shroud at the back of the bed to stop it being pulled out. You have to make sure they engage with the captive nuts - as the bottom plastic can bend instead. Looking at Sam's video - it seems mine is an enhanced bed plug shroud with added screws for extra security.
The final confusion was a thick-ish sheet of clear plastic covering the bed - very strongly stuck. Loose on a couple of edges - but no obvious tabs or markings that normally indicate a protective film. However - that is what it is - so remove it.
Now getting close to printing click-in adapters for a (Sam £3.50) 8x16mm or a 10x20mm coreless motor in an early variant Mehano/Model Power RS-11. In hindsight it would have been quicker to have shaped one with front lugs out of a small piece of wood. Instead of needing the complication of a rear clip - possibly use a longer 2mm self tap pan screw through the under-chassis weight screw hole which is clear all the way into the motor compartment.
Hi Sam
I recently bought the Flashforge Adventurer 3 after watching your review, as I also was nervous about whether to jump in to 3D printing. I have been like a kid in candy store ever since.
I have finished my fourth 5 plank wagon and printed everything except the wheels complete with "separately fitted" brakes and fine buffers. Then started a house that morphed into a factory with "skaledale" brick relief and 0.4mm fine window frames. And because I'm a Grandad One TRex, 2 Bey Blades (semi fail) nah! fail.
So thank you for getting me started. Also I use Blender which I have played with for years on and off.
That's awesome David - I've felt much the same joy too... nothing better is there? Keep up the good work! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
When will you start printing steam loco bodies that fit on existing chassis?
I'm thinking I'll skip that step and just produce a whole loco, chassis and all... need to practice with more rolling stock first though!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Itd be cool to see some you print some 7 mm narrow gauge stuff or some o gauge rolling stock Great video as always
Sam, the layer lines are showing more than they should. There are some videos on RUclips about how to print with less showing. Worth a look. I like that printer with self-levelling. At the end of this month, I am buying an Ender 3. Like the one I borrowed from the college, it has all the updates and a stepper motor silencing board. The fan housing around the nozzle has also been modified. I am using the same filament as you are and I have had no problems with it. I will take some photos of what I made with the one from college and email them to you. Unless you have a Line account and I can them that way. Martin. (Thailand)
Oh yes! I'm not i to 3D printing but i am curious about it for train sets... awesome
Thanks Matthew - it certainly is very interesting! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Have you tried printing with cura and octoprint it did not work for me AIR PRINTED
I wonder if you could print wheel bearings to upgrade the horrible square hole bearings some models have.
I have the creality LD 002r resin printer with a 2k LCD and prints at 0.05mm res only cost £175 and I would love to be able to design rolling stock or even locos but I really struggle with the design software side so I have found 2 or 3 things on thingivers. But would love to print off what I've made they look amazin
What systems does the supplied software run on? Is Linux supported? I can't see me buying a new PC just to 3D print.
Yes all the major 3D software(slicers) are available for Linux, it’s all. Use
Would you be able to release the 3d model files?
im contemplating this for my first printer. would you recomend?
Sure! It’s very good for the money - takes a while to get used to it, and it’s worth spending time experimenting on the different settings though!
these affordable printers are definitely going to be the future of the hobby and modelling in general
Ooo, a 1:1 scale model of a 3D printer!
haha I know right!! :O
any chance of having this machine print a gear, same as you used on the Tornado model?
Yeah absolutely - this was the machine that did produce that gear! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Great that sounds even more interesting! Cheers
How long before you start 3D-printing your own 3D printers???
haha! You literally can do that! xD
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Just watching this video and wanted to ask - how is this printer for someone who is brand new to 3D printing, and is looking at loads of video reviews for something suitable? 🤔
hey sam great video but ive got a question/problem last week i bought a £5 hornby dublo class 08 and its having problems ive oiled it and it still doesnt go and it sparks. sometimes if i lift it up slightly it works for 1 second then cuts off again do you know what could be the issue?
Hmm, sounds like a motor issue - have you tried stripping down the motor for cleaning and a small amount of fresh oil?
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains no but il give it a shot thanks so much sam
I think it would be more interesting for you to feature 3D printed models that are not readily available as RTR and kits. Things like trucks and oil wagons are so easy to obtain it is hardly worth the trouble of 3D printing them! On the other hand, something such as a curved bridge or viaduct would add an interesting feature to a layout without great expense, given that you've already forked out for the 3D printer! Thanks for uploading.
Have you painted any of your 3D printed creations?
Very cool sam I like the video take care :)
Thanks very much Seb! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Does this printer work with octopi?
What a stunning printer, with this you could probably create an army of 3D printed Sam’s and never have to do any model work again! Great stuff, quite surprising how good this printer actually was! -TheImperialDiamondSpinosaurus
question of the week: what takes longer to complete,
Heljan class 17 body removal or complex 3D printer assembly and setup
Whatever else you compare, it's always the Heljan Class 17 body removal!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Double Trouble or Double Power? Good Job Sam. Stay well and keep doing what your good at.
Your prices are wrong. The flashforge Adventure 3 (the normal version, not the lite) is the same exact price as the Mingda on Amazon.
So, especially for a beginner, would you recommend the Mingda over the FlashForge?
The fact that the Mingda isn't enclosed worries me, but it sounds like it's a lot more accurate and user friendly than the FlashForge. Plus the price too (although, buying my first one, I don't mind paying a little more for a better product).
Also, I'm going to have to keep an eye out for more of your 3D printer videos because the FlashForge does seem to hold up over time. We'll see with the Mingda I suppose.
Flashforge (I had one for a couple of years) is as close to plug and play as 3D printer can be. I would definitely recommend it as starting point. Don't worry about enclosure - most of 3D printers don't have them. There is no smell if you print with PLA. If you want something more similar to Mingda, go for Ender 3 V2.
Besides the calibration, the Flashforge is very easy to use... this one is easy too, but I had to do a bit more troubleshooting to get good prints. I really like the enclosure on the Flashforge too... it also protects everything from dust etc. So both have their pros and cons - this one was better value for money though!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Thank you both! I'll stick with my original plan to buy the Flashforge Sam initially reviewed once I have some money saved up!
This looks like a fine machine.
Compared to you're other printer this printer looks like its has more trouble with ringing and aligning the layers properly.
Also, look into DLP 3D printers if you want to make models without visible layers.
Yes it does look that way - though check out the print at the end... that one was done with acceleration and jerk control enabled, and all of the sloppiness went away! I'll be showing more produced with this soon!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
quick question sam
can you plz do a tutorial of how to do 3d printing ? as it will come in handy for me repairing some of my trains
thx ben :)
Sure! As soon as I know more myself, I will do that! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains thanks very much
Where can you buy these products
What will a steamer designed by Sam, look like ? Can you ship ?
Hi Sam! How's it's going? I'm doing great! I really love it if you review a Class D51, a Japanese Steam Locomotive!
Would you think this printer would be a good unit for someone who has no experience with 3d printing?
I’d probably say the Flashforge adventurer is a bit better for beginners - the levelling isn’t quite as easy, but everything else is a bit more so!
Hi Sam, You didn't mention the sprung buffers!😉Tempted to buy a 3d printer now, assumed they cost £000s
New locomotive with that amazing printer 😁
I definitely like this printer. I would have to say it is equally as good, maybe better, than your previous one.
Definitely time to make a lot more rolling stock and to start learning how to paint :)
Are you going to make buildings with this printer? The large build plate seems ideal for that purpose
Well done after seeing your Flashforge video I decided to get one now you do this video and make me feel like I wasted my money thank you
You didn’t waste your money - the flashforge is still great, and it has a few advantages such as the enclosure and great reliability!
@@SamsTrains Thanks Sam I hope also I brought the Aveturer 4 and here in Australia where everything 10 X expensive I was just worry i fork over $1000 for an inferior machine sorry if I came across upset I really enjoy your videos
Those models don’t look too bad I need to start looking at 3D printing one day.
Awesome! It is a lot of fun! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam, Lucky man, As you say there are pro's and con's, But it does seem to be a lot better, I can see mass production, practice practice practice, ( new company Sam's Bits ) All the Best Brian 🤗😎
Interesting thanks
Hi Sam, hope this isn't preaching to the choir: To combat the warping you can try a few things: 1) clean the bed with warm water and a small amout of dish soap to eliminate any excess grease/muck, 2) clean bed with 90% (or higher) IPA, 3) check your bed temperatures, 4) build your skirt up higher to act as a semi-enclosure (another 4-5 layers should do in most cases) and help prevet drafts, 5) lower the cooling settings on the hotend fan (if there is one and it's not a one speed job) so that the corners don't cool down as quickly. However, if there are Z-height bed levelling inconsistencies from the auto level, then you may have to put a couple layers of raft down. If you don't want to waste filament on a raft, a brim may help keep the edges down (not sure if Cura allows brims to be selected to just be on the corners like Prusa Slic3r does though).
Hve you picked up any design files from others?
I literally haven't - not a single one! The only one was the spool holder for my adventurer... I'm loving designing so much that I'd rather design everything from scratch!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Can a 3d printer print a steam locomotive dome with a reasonably smooth surface?
Resin printer without any problems but not FDM printers that Sam uses
@@radoslawsocha4955 Oh, Thanks!
What you next need is a computerised metal 3D milling machine next for doing wheels or detail items?
So this is another way to get a hornby/bachmann rolling stock / train not good quality but it does get the job done
Sam, if you want to go for proper loco/rolling stock quality prints, you should invest in a resin printer.
Hey Sam , can you do more o gauge videos ?
How has the 3D printing been doing?
No longer Sam’s trains
It’s Sam’s printers
Forget the negativity Sam, people don't like change. 3d printing will be a big part of model trains going forward. Love your work 😀
I would have thought that a SLS printer would be the superior option for making models.
i wonder what other models i can do maybe like a plane kit
Totally! 3D printed parts can be very light, so probably quite ideal for aircraft!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I'd really recommend looking at resin printers at that kind of scale. You'll never match the level of detail using an FDM machine. It is messier and a littler more effort, but it's worth it
Yeah that's true - the mess just won't work in my loft though, and I don't have any ventilation!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Caution: when using a loose roll of filament - there is nothing to stop it coming off the back of the holder. The filament can then become tangled round the support and stop feeding smoothly. Not sure why the Z axis movement is so clunky =- in between clunks the screw rotates smoothly. Both motors are synchronised - so it is presumably the way they are driven. The head actually gets stopped by the end of the previous layer and forces its way past that point - the vase and head shake.
same can show exsample of strain