MINGDA Magician X Auto Leveling 3D Printer. | Smoothest prints I ever had from this less known brand
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- This is a short review on the Mingda Magician X. It's a FDM Printer in the $300 range with a host of features including automatic leveling, dual Z-Axis rods, color touchscreen as well as other features. It comes mostly assembled and is fun to use.
If you like the machine feel free to use the affiliate links below as well as a code for the Mingda website that will save you $20 if you buy direct from their website. You can also purchase it on Amazon if you prefer.
Mingda Magician X:
3dmingdaofficial.com/collecti...
$20 OFF Promo code on the Magician X: MDMX20USD
Amazon Link:
amzn.to/3JUq8Yf
Thanks for watching!
Link to the .STL files I corrected.
drive.google.com/drive/folder... 
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Thanks for your job. Dear Ryan
Sweet review. I am just learning about 3D printing and I appreciate your time.
My pleasure!
I have just subscribed after seeing this review. I was considering buying the printer and have now ordered one. I have realised the importance of the quality of the files and thank you for also offering your Cura settings
Sorry I'm late to the party but thank you very much! I'm glad I could be some help to you.
good review!
Nice review
Thank you!
great review. i just ordered the mingda 600D. i couldnt find any reviews on it anywhere, but everyone seems to like the magicians
Thank you. Glad you liked it. You’ll have to report back how you like your new machine.
Hi good information thank you I have two of the Magician x 3d printer and are very impressed with it the only thing I have been looking for is I Video on RUclips on how to change the hot end
I haven’t seen one for this machine but I’m guessing if you remove the cover it should be fairly self explanatory. Usually you remove the cover. Unscrew the two bolts holding on the hot end and detach it. Then you have to push down on the ring at the top of the port with the tube coming out of it to release the tube. Then replace any components you are looking to replace and put it back the way to took it off.
Can you share your PLA profile in Cura? Also do you have a profile for PETG?
Looks like a nice printer. Funny how the stl files that come with printers aren't fully optimized to their fullest potential.
Yeah. That's why I provided the files. It's not the printers fault but just goes to show you that the quality of the printer is just part of the equation. You have to have good files in there to print nice.
Hey, very nice review! I am considering getting this printer. If I may ask, how long did it take to print the skull pen holder? Thanks
Hi. I don't remember exactly but it was something around 3-4 hours. It all depends on the speeds your choose and your resolution.
6:02 Are you sure the limit switches determine the height? I see limit switches for X and Y but Z seems to use an odd infrared sensor setup or something (base of the right gantry).
Yes you are correct. It's a sensor and not a switch for the z axis but I just refer to it as a limit switch since it's essentially functioning the same way.
@@BusterBeagle3D aaaaah, fair enough. Sorry for misunderstanding.
Does Mingda have an option to upgrade to 300C hotend?
Are u Able to change to an all metal hotend at all or
I got two Magician x printer's the sound one a got didn't have a unload filament on the main panel just a X where the unload filament should be the first one I got did have both load and unload filament buttons
I enjoyed the review and subscribed. I have one of these printers, but I'm still new to 3d printing. I have a hard time finding images online that are compatible with this print. Do you have a recommendations for sites to visit for images? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hello. I'm assuming you mean models and not images but you can find all kids of models on Thingiverse.com
@@BusterBeagle3D Yes, thank you.
Help on the 3D head - plz
First I purchased the Mingda Magician X based on your review. Thank you. I was hoping you could give me a little more detail on your 3D head. Like what did you use to scan and would you recommend it? Thanks
Hello. I scanned my own head using a app on my iPhone called Scandy Pro. I then took it into a program called ZBrush just to clean in up a little bit before printing. I'm a 3D modeler by profession so I can't say how hard that might be for someone who isn't but it worked pretty well.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you
Is this a good starter 3D printer? I'm looking to get one for cosplays, then taking on commissions for friends. Within my budget, so just wanting to be sure before I jump on it haha 😄
It's a nice machine. Most 3D printers are pretty good now a days but this one is pretty nice as well.
mine has really bad nozzle drag, any ideas that could fix it. I've tried everything
Make sure you are adjusting you z height in the settings on the touchscreen. The nozzle should not be dragging on the surface but just above it.
hey, could you post your settings in cura? thinking of start and end code etc. thanks
Start GCode:
G28 ; home all axes
M117 Purge extruder
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 X10 Y10
G92 X0Y0
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X10 Y20 Z0.2 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
G1 X10 Y200.0 Z0.2 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.2 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.2 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
End GCode:
G91; relative positioning
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of print
G90; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y200 F1000 ; prepare for part removal
M104 S0; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G1 X0 Y300 F1000 ; prepare for part removal
M84 ; disable motors
M106 S0 ; turn off fan
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you sir 🙂
Was watching a video from Make With Tech (MakeWithTech) on his review of the Mingda Magician x printer. He recommends running the self leveling at first, then modifying the G code after doing that. Well, here is what he recommends in the G code, just thought you might be interested:
"I recommend the following G-code start code for this printer."
"Since G28 disables bed leveling, we either need to add a G29 and perform a full bed level or just an M420 S1 to enable using the bed leveling data. This start code is based on the standard Cura Ender 3 start code."
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M420 S1 ; MWT Enable Use of Bed Leveling Data
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z-Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z-Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
@@billholder253 Interesting. Didn't know G28
was disabling the bed leveling.
@@BusterBeagle3D That is according to Make With Tech, and he did add it into the G code as well. At least this is what I aw in the video & he talked about. Check it out.
My Magician X just arrived 2 days ago. I have already printed several things. I am pretty happy with it as you described. I am having some difficulty with the skirt not adhering all the way around. Is this a leveling problem? Suggestions? Also the end product does not separate from the build plate easily. Suggestions?
Hello. Those 2 issues that you are having almost seem to be counter to each other. If your skirt isn’t adhering I almost feel like your nozzle is too high. Might want to run that auto leveling again to make sure it’s good. If the print doesn’t come off easy I feel like the nozzle may be too low. Honestly I have never had an issue with a part being hard to remove from the build plate. I just let the heated bed cool and it pretty much almost pops of by itself. .
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the reply. The skirt does not adhere in one section of the plate. I will try cleaning and releveling. The sticking problem is very real. I wait for the print to cool to room temperature, then I have to pry it of with a scrapper using a lot of force. I have seen the suggestion to use a glue stick on the plate before printing. Thoughts?
@@robertsparks3685 I actually like to hit the heated bed with Aqua Net hair spray every now and then. It's not something I do all of the time but every now and then I like to do that for adhesion. I'm talking about their regular pink can with no additives or anything like that.
better design than Ender s1, it cheaper and better hotend
I need help
Gee how can a novice notice a part is bent a little? seems a very nice machine but if i buy one over 538 Can on amazon i would not like to discover something is bent on it when brand new :( i know nothing about tinkering 3D printers. I like the leveling ability of this machine
It didn’t take an expert to see that there was an issue with the x axis gantry. Again if the machine was not provided to me I would have returned it for a new one rather then repair it like I did. The company was very responsive and helpful along the way. I feel like the issue was a fluke but I mentioned it in the review to be fully transparent.
@@BusterBeagle3D there several interresting models i will go with an out of the box working model :) for now. thanks for sharing your knowledge
Support is not efficient. Don’t count on them if you have any trouble and you will have it with this printer.
That has not been my experience but I guess everyone might have their own. I would also try reaching out in their facebook group where you might get a more timely answer. However this week is a National Holiday in China so if you contacted this week it might take a while to get a response.
Good review and yours is the fourth one I watched. Unfortunately, the Australian Dollar is weak against the green back. US$349 is AU$ 488 and add another US$264 is AU$369 for shipping, you end up paying AU$857. Thanks but no thanks.
oh look, yet another i3 clone with zero innovation. Let me try to contain my excitement.