Excellent video explaining exactly how the Kato turnouts work. This is a very helpful video especially for model railroaders who are new to the hobby. Well done.
AMEN TO THAT! I'm thinking of going all DCC and Kato. If Kato can make my life easier, it's well worth me selling off all my old atlas stuff. I just want to run trains, not clean tracks and fight with old dirty track.
Thanks John for taking the time to put this content together to explain the difference and operations of the Kato switches . Fantastic quality content too John,on your channel. keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
Thanks again Phil. It was your previous comments that made me think that I should go back and do some back to basics videos. I think it's good to have an understanding of basic principles in whatever we do and take it a step at a time working up to more advanced levels. John
Hi John, I think it’s important especially on the RUclips platform to show people like myself the basics and John you have a brilliant way of delivering the message of understanding with a easy ,no nonsense approach to the subject. The led light array on the track did it for me to understand how it works and I thank you for that.👍
Thank you, John! All this time I thought I was crazy with the "Pat. P." power routing cock-up. All is now back to my normal insanity. Much appreciated.
Good to know that the older Kato #4's are mislabled, now I need to go check my layout as I have a suspicion that some are set to non-power routing but actually are power routing. With power routing modes you should always have a feeder at the base of the switch, as done in the demonstration. IF you have a feeder on the other side of the switch, it will NOT power the other side if thrown. So keep that in mind when building a layout and placing of feeders. The number 6 switch is a very nice curve and great for main lines, just know that your going to want to put track feeders on both sides of that switch (the straight part) when building a crossover with them. The Kato Single and Double Crossover tracks are number 4's, and even have the same settings as them. However this does mean that your mainline track is MUCH closer to one another then if you had used number 6's. This is just something to keep in mind when designing a layout as your going to need to keep with one or the other on your mains. For example, use number 6's for all crossovers and control points on your main line, but use number 4's for your yards and industrial spurs. Anything interacting with the main line should be 6's as well, this will make for a much smoother operation and running of trains on your main.
Thanks John, a lot to think about there! You are right, how you wire your layout with turnouts etc, needs some thought to get the best results/running of trains. All the best. John
Nice video and thanks for the explanation. I just started with Kato unitracks and have been unsure about the Kato turnouts. Coming from Märklin 3 line systems this was never an issue.
These Kato turnouts bug me how they aren't consistent, like how the #6 DON'T allow you to provide power down to the unused side but the #4 do. I'm under the impression that the #6 are not only more reliable, but also I just believe they look better in most cases than the #4, which means you'll need to add power to the diverging route assuming that you're wanting to also use the non-diverging route. That way you can run trains on the main line, and operate something in the sidings at the same time. Frustrating. Just researching because of a T trak modules I'm making. Otherwise I'm perfectly happy to isolate the frog and power it based on a simply mechanical switch. Thanks for the video!
Hi Andrew, Yes, it would be nice if they provided the same options as the #4 turnout for the #6. I have steered away from the #4s as I had derailing issues with bigger locos (co-co). The bigger locos run fine over the #6s. Cheers, and thanks for watching. John
Hi John, I have never used the Kato track before so very useful to know how they make the points work from an electrical point of view. I know a lot of newcomers struggle laying Peco trackwork, and in my opinion Kato is a good route to take, just not so many suppliers in the UK . It would be interesting to here you experiances of using Kato track and which radius curves you find the most useful as so many locos these days say a minimum of R2 or R3 radius curves. I know Kato make some very tight radius curves. All the best Tony.
Thanks Anthony, I did this so that hopefully it helps anyone who is thinking of using Kato track in the future. Sometimes it's good to go back to basics
Greetings Australia and G’day John ☀️ another rip snorter of a delivery there 🏏 just got my first Kato track to run my OO Yellow Submarine Eurostar , so this is a very useful information 👍 I must get a few N Gauge pieces too as it really seems to be good stuff to work with 🤔 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle☘️
Hello Paul from the Emerald Isle, glad you found it useful. Sometimes it's good to get back to basics as a starting point to help out anyone who may be new to Kato track. Cheers from the land of the Kangaroos 🦘
Thank you for sharing as I’m just starting out, wondering which switch I needed. As I plan on having no reverse loops using DCC; feel safe to say a #6 will work fine (although I will have two trains running at the same time: the DCC will power the specific engine eliminating the need for isolation).
Thanks for explaining how this works. Years ago, I watched a video of a yard with six racks all connected to one main line. Each one branched of as it went up. Then, the guy showed how with Kato switches you could run any of those trains one by one and bring them out to the main lines. Maybe you could do a version of that to shoe how Kato switches only have power when you switch correctly.
Thanks for this video. It is one of the most informative I've seen yet and beautifully explains the differences. Is it possible to change the #6 to non-routing?
Hi Steve, nice to see you found it useful. As far as #6 being non-routing I would say no, but you can use isolated fishplates on the turnout to isolate the section of track coming off the turnout. Then, you would need to feed these with power separately. Not really the same but I guess if you had a button/switch to operate the turnout then you could also use it to operate a relay to turn power on/off to the track section running off the turnout that has the isolated fishplates . Hope that doesn't sound too confusing. Maybe an idea for a future video? John
Thanks for sharing your videos. It has inspired me to pick up some euro style models and maybe some rail stock during my trip to the UK this summer. On your t-trak layouts have you used the double track instead of single?
Hi Stuart, I use both double and single. For example, on the junction module, I had to use the single track. Also, where I have installed a turnout on the main line, the track parallel to it has to be single. Plus, sidings as well. Have a good trip and thanks for watching! John
Thanks for the wonderful explanation and switch comparison. I'm starting new as well. My plan is to stay with DC controls for multiple trains. I'll set up separate routings. I'll not have a permanent layout since I like 'playing' with different setups. I plan to use as loop to turn around train's direction from # 6 turnout. I've seen modelers use insulators used on the turn out leg of the switch to facilitate changing the track's polarity as a train makes a loop back onto a main route.. I may not be stating the setup correctly but could you explain how this works? Thank you ahead of time for your consideration. Keep up the great work! John
Hi and thanks for the kind words! I haven't had to look into reversing loops for my layout but I think it may be a topic worth doing a video on. Since I read your comment I've had a look on the internet and done some research. The basic (manual) reversing loop looks fairly straightforward so this might be a good place to start for a detailed video. Cheers for now. John
Great explanation! I have been planning to use Kato n track for my layout and collecting info on how it works. Let me have a question if U do not mind. How do you split power? Ok, there is a 3-way splitter, but I might have to split it even further. How to split power even further? Thanx very much!
@@wimbletrain Ok, thanx, so connecting "lots of the" 3-way splitter is the solution. Actually, I hoped Kato produces multiple-way splitters I had just been too lame to find. Thanx for your assistance!
I'm back John with a question. I've designed a Kato track layout (small so it's basically ovals) with four #6 switches, one 15-degree cross track (similar to Kato's V9 set) and one double X crossover track. My question is, will I need any insulated joiners anywhere on my layout? I don't want to short circuit anything. You've shown me that power is only conducted through the selected direction on turnouts, but I do not know if power flows through the X and the 15-degree tracks or not. I have placed eleven feeders at places that I believe they are needed. One at each X end to supply power to the X and one on each end of the 15-degree track. I've also placed feeders on main lines and turnoffs to supply power. I may have too many but, do I need any insulated joiners and if so, where? Thanks.
Hi Danny, it's a tricky one to answer as I don't know how it's all connected. But I can say with the double X it is insulated on the inner rails. You can see the small black plastic pieces between the rails. The two outer rails are not insulated on each side you can see the outer rails go straight through. I've never used the cross track but you should be able to see if its insulated and if you have a multimeter you should be able to measure continuity across it. Fair to say though that feeding these with power from both ends is a good idea. If you have more than one loop then its a good idea to insulate them from each other. The double X does this for you but if you were using normal turnouts then you would put in insulated joiners between the two loops. Hope this helps I can always give you my email if you need further help, that way you can send a drawing of your setup.
@@wimbletrain Thanks for taking the time to reply. I think I have it figured out now. My outer "passenger" loop and my inner "freight" loop are only connected by the double crossover and nowhere else. There is one turnout on the inner freight line for a couple of industries and a couple of turnouts on the passenger line to create a small yard. I intend to place insulted joiners at the two turnouts that lead to the yard so I can have feeders in the yard track to shunt cars on its own controller. Thanks again for the help. If curiosity ever gets the best of you, I would be happy to send you an image of my MAP and what I laughingly call my WIRING layout.
Hi Terry, Yes, I have always known them as points, I guess turnout/point/switch are all used these days depending on where you are in the world. It is always difficult to decide which term to use when making a video to try to appeal to the audience. Thanks for watching and for your comment. John
I’m as new as it gets to model railroading so please pardon my ignorance. I’m going with Kato track and going with DCC powering. With DCC is power or non power routing an issue? Already bought two #6 switches and want to be sure I do it right
Hi, no problem, as the #6 switches are power routing only you need to have power feeds on both sides of the switch. For example if you had a siding off a #6 switch as soon as you operated the switch it would isolate the siding and you would have no power there. With the #4 switches, if you choose to use them, I would have them in non power routing for DCC. So power routing and non power routing is not an issue for DCC you just need to think about where you put your power feeds if you use power routing. Hope that helps and feel free to ask as many questions as you like. John
@@wimbletrain New to Kato N Gauge and I have been looking everywhere for this answer as to why so many connections are needed for DCC with some Kato track. Thank you!!!
Hi Jon, Yes, same when I was using them, and many others unfortunately have had the same issue. It was usually the triple bogie locos that would do it.
Thank you Steve. Just wanted to do a simple video on how they work. How you then wire them up and connect them into your layout is a whole new story! John
I'm assuming your question is can the switching of the turnout be controlled by a toggle switch? If so the answer is yes, there are videos out there on how to do it but I was thinking of doing one myself. John
@@gwrbuckleyjunction1733 Hi, you have a couple of options for replacement cables: Kato 24-84TC HO / N Scale Replacement Turnout Cable Kato 24-841 Turnout Extension Cord These have the right connector to plug into the switch.
Hi, one example I can think of is if you were using DCC, then you could power all of the track at once as the loco will only move if you tell it to via its DCC address.
THANK YOU! Finally, a video that uses visuals via the leds to make the point! This is helpful for everyone! THANK YOU again!
You're welcome! I'm glad it helped.
Excellent video explaining exactly how the Kato turnouts work. This is a very helpful video especially for model railroaders who are new to the hobby. Well done.
Thanks very much for your kind comment. If I can help out and encourage new/existing modellers then that's a good thing for our hobby. John
AMEN TO THAT! I'm thinking of going all DCC and Kato. If Kato can make my life easier, it's well worth me selling off all my old atlas stuff. I just want to run trains, not clean tracks and fight with old dirty track.
I am planning to build an n gauge layout and found your video very informative 👍
Thanks, and have fun building your layout!
Thanks John for taking the time to put this content together to explain the difference and operations of the Kato switches . Fantastic quality content too John,on your channel.
keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
Thanks again Phil. It was your previous comments that made me think that I should go back and do some back to basics videos. I think it's good to have an understanding of basic principles in whatever we do and take it a step at a time working up to more advanced levels. John
Hi John,
I think it’s important especially on the RUclips platform to show people like myself the basics and John you have a brilliant way of delivering the message of understanding with a easy ,no nonsense approach to the subject.
The led light array on the track did it for me to understand how it works and I thank you for that.👍
Thank you, John! All this time I thought I was crazy with the "Pat. P." power routing cock-up. All is now back to my normal insanity. Much appreciated.
LOL Robert, yes it gets a bit like that at times! Thanks for watching. John
Most enjoyable and well explained, Thanks John.
Thanks Chris
Excellent video and well explained. Helped a lot as I’m isolating a reverse loop. Thanks for the info!
Thanks very much Darrel
Good to know that the older Kato #4's are mislabled, now I need to go check my layout as I have a suspicion that some are set to non-power routing but actually are power routing.
With power routing modes you should always have a feeder at the base of the switch, as done in the demonstration. IF you have a feeder on the other side of the switch, it will NOT power the other side if thrown. So keep that in mind when building a layout and placing of feeders. The number 6 switch is a very nice curve and great for main lines, just know that your going to want to put track feeders on both sides of that switch (the straight part) when building a crossover with them.
The Kato Single and Double Crossover tracks are number 4's, and even have the same settings as them. However this does mean that your mainline track is MUCH closer to one another then if you had used number 6's. This is just something to keep in mind when designing a layout as your going to need to keep with one or the other on your mains. For example, use number 6's for all crossovers and control points on your main line, but use number 4's for your yards and industrial spurs. Anything interacting with the main line should be 6's as well, this will make for a much smoother operation and running of trains on your main.
Thanks John, a lot to think about there! You are right, how you wire your layout with turnouts etc, needs some thought to get the best results/running of trains. All the best. John
Thanx! Now I know how these switches work.
You're welcome!
Fantastic explanation! Thank you so much!
Hi Christian, I'm glad it was helpful!
Nice video and thanks for the explanation. I just started with Kato unitracks and have been unsure about the Kato turnouts. Coming from Märklin 3 line systems this was never an issue.
Thankyou, I'm glad you found it useful
Great video for a newbie like me to understand! Really helpful!
Thankyou very much!
These Kato turnouts bug me how they aren't consistent, like how the #6 DON'T allow you to provide power down to the unused side but the #4 do. I'm under the impression that the #6 are not only more reliable, but also I just believe they look better in most cases than the #4, which means you'll need to add power to the diverging route assuming that you're wanting to also use the non-diverging route. That way you can run trains on the main line, and operate something in the sidings at the same time. Frustrating. Just researching because of a T trak modules I'm making. Otherwise I'm perfectly happy to isolate the frog and power it based on a simply mechanical switch.
Thanks for the video!
Hi Andrew, Yes, it would be nice if they provided the same options as the #4 turnout for the #6. I have steered away from the #4s as I had derailing issues with bigger locos (co-co). The bigger locos run fine over the #6s. Cheers, and thanks for watching. John
Hi John, I have never used the Kato track before so very useful to know how they make the points work from an electrical point of view. I know a lot of newcomers struggle laying Peco trackwork, and in my opinion Kato is a good route to take, just not so many suppliers in the UK . It would be interesting to here you experiances of using Kato track and which radius curves you find the most useful as so many locos these days say a minimum of R2 or R3 radius curves. I know Kato make some very tight radius curves. All the best Tony.
Hi Tony, sounds like a good topic for my next video.👍
Excellent production, John. Nicely explained and demonstrated. I do not run N or use Kato but found this very interesting.
Thanks Anthony, I did this so that hopefully it helps anyone who is thinking of using Kato track in the future. Sometimes it's good to go back to basics
Greetings Australia and G’day John ☀️ another rip snorter of a delivery there 🏏 just got my first Kato track to run my OO Yellow Submarine Eurostar , so this is a very useful information 👍 I must get a few N Gauge pieces too as it really seems to be good stuff to work with 🤔 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle☘️
Hello Paul from the Emerald Isle, glad you found it useful. Sometimes it's good to get back to basics as a starting point to help out anyone who may be new to Kato track. Cheers from the land of the Kangaroos 🦘
Thank you for sharing as I’m just starting out, wondering which switch I needed. As I plan on having no reverse loops using DCC; feel safe to say a #6 will work fine (although I will have two trains running at the same time: the DCC will power the specific engine eliminating the need for isolation).
Glad you found it useful John, it can all be a bit confusing to start with. John
helped a lot in choosing between #4 and #6
Thanks Terry
nicely done, just starting my layout
Thanks for watching, good luck with the build!
Excellent stuff....I'm researching what track to use, and this is gold! Now need to see if that ballast can be made more realistic!
Hi Paul, thanks for the nice comment. With the ballast I've watched many a video but haven't really had a go at it. John
Thanks for explaining how this works. Years ago, I watched a video of a yard with six racks all connected to one main line. Each one branched of as it went up. Then, the guy showed how with Kato switches you could run any of those trains one by one and bring them out to the main lines. Maybe you could do a version of that to shoe how Kato switches only have power when you switch correctly.
Hi Danny, that's a good idea to show how the switches work. If I can get some track/switches together it would be worth doing. John
Very clear illustration I think larger locos more suited to turn out 6......
Thanks, you are absolutely right, I had a fair bit of trouble with the #4s and co-co locos. John
most excellent ... calm and intake easy ...
Thanks for your kind words, glad you found it useful. John
This is so helpful, thank you so much!
Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video. It is one of the most informative I've seen yet and beautifully explains the differences. Is it possible to change the #6 to non-routing?
Hi Steve, nice to see you found it useful. As far as #6 being non-routing I would say no, but you can use isolated fishplates on the turnout to isolate the section of track coming off the turnout. Then, you would need to feed these with power separately. Not really the same but I guess if you had a button/switch to operate the turnout then you could also use it to operate a relay to turn power on/off to the track section running off the turnout that has the isolated fishplates . Hope that doesn't sound too confusing. Maybe an idea for a future video? John
Great video. Thanks.
Thankyou
Thanks for sharing your videos. It has inspired me to pick up some euro style models and maybe some rail stock during my trip to the UK this summer. On your t-trak layouts have you used the double track instead of single?
Hi Stuart, I use both double and single. For example, on the junction module, I had to use the single track. Also, where I have installed a turnout on the main line, the track parallel to it has to be single. Plus, sidings as well. Have a good trip and thanks for watching! John
I wonder why Kato never made the number 6 turnout selectable between routing and non-routing. Always been curious about that.
Yes, I can't make sense of it either!
Thanks for the wonderful explanation and switch comparison. I'm starting new as well.
My plan is to stay with DC controls for multiple trains. I'll set up separate routings. I'll not have a permanent layout since I like 'playing' with different setups.
I plan to use as loop to turn around train's direction from # 6 turnout. I've seen modelers use insulators used on the turn out leg of the switch to facilitate changing the track's polarity as a train makes a loop back onto a main route.. I may not be stating the setup correctly but could you explain how this works? Thank you ahead of time for your consideration. Keep up the great work! John
Hi and thanks for the kind words! I haven't had to look into reversing loops for my layout but I think it may be a topic worth doing a video on. Since I read your comment I've had a look on the internet and done some research. The basic (manual) reversing loop looks fairly straightforward so this might be a good place to start for a detailed video. Cheers for now. John
Great explanation! I have been planning to use Kato n track for my layout and collecting info on how it works. Let me have a question if U do not mind. How do you split power? Ok, there is a 3-way splitter, but I might have to split it even further. How to split power even further? Thanx very much!
Hi, you can just connect multiple splitters together to get more connections.
@@wimbletrain Ok, thanx, so connecting "lots of the" 3-way splitter is the solution. Actually, I hoped Kato produces multiple-way splitters I had just been too lame to find. Thanx for your assistance!
I'm back John with a question. I've designed a Kato track layout (small so it's basically ovals) with four #6 switches, one 15-degree cross track (similar to Kato's V9 set) and one double X crossover track. My question is, will I need any insulated joiners anywhere on my layout? I don't want to short circuit anything. You've shown me that power is only conducted through the selected direction on turnouts, but I do not know if power flows through the X and the 15-degree tracks or not. I have placed eleven feeders at places that I believe they are needed. One at each X end to supply power to the X and one on each end of the 15-degree track. I've also placed feeders on main lines and turnoffs to supply power. I may have too many but, do I need any insulated joiners and if so, where? Thanks.
Hi Danny, it's a tricky one to answer as I don't know how it's all connected. But I can say with the double X it is insulated on the inner rails. You can see the small black plastic pieces between the rails. The two outer rails are not insulated on each side you can see the outer rails go straight through. I've never used the cross track but you should be able to see if its insulated and if you have a multimeter you should be able to measure continuity across it. Fair to say though that feeding these with power from both ends is a good idea. If you have more than one loop then its a good idea to insulate them from each other. The double X does this for you but if you were using normal turnouts then you would put in insulated joiners between the two loops. Hope this helps I can always give you my email if you need further help, that way you can send a drawing of your setup.
@@wimbletrain Thanks for taking the time to reply. I think I have it figured out now. My outer "passenger" loop and my inner "freight" loop are only connected by the double crossover and nowhere else. There is one turnout on the inner freight line for a couple of industries and a couple of turnouts on the passenger line to create a small yard. I intend to place insulted joiners at the two turnouts that lead to the yard so I can have feeders in the yard track to shunt cars on its own controller. Thanks again for the help. If curiosity ever gets the best of you, I would be happy to send you an image of my MAP and what I laughingly call my WIRING layout.
ahhhhhh the user optional power routing feature is why the #4's cost so much more than the #6's.
Hi Sam, thanks for watching and commenting. John
remember when we called them .points'. :-( Excellent video though.
Hi Terry, Yes, I have always known them as points, I guess turnout/point/switch are all used these days depending on where you are in the world. It is always difficult to decide which term to use when making a video to try to appeal to the audience. Thanks for watching and for your comment. John
@@wimbletrain Thanks. It's. OK. I just get tired of UUS terms invading all areas of lfe. Nice work you are doing. :-)
I’m as new as it gets to model railroading so please pardon my ignorance. I’m going with Kato track and going with DCC powering. With DCC is power or non power routing an issue? Already bought two #6 switches and want to be sure I do it right
Hi, no problem, as the #6 switches are power routing only you need to have power feeds on both sides of the switch. For example if you had a siding off a #6 switch as soon as you operated the switch it would isolate the siding and you would have no power there. With the #4 switches, if you choose to use them, I would have them in non power routing for DCC. So power routing and non power routing is not an issue for DCC you just need to think about where you put your power feeds if you use power routing. Hope that helps and feel free to ask as many questions as you like. John
@@wimbletrain New to Kato N Gauge and I have been looking everywhere for this answer as to why so many connections are needed for DCC with some Kato track. Thank you!!!
@chadk3213 I'm glad it was helpful!
The #4 issues that I have are derailments. The switch points don’t lined up correctly.
Hi Jon, Yes, same when I was using them, and many others unfortunately have had the same issue. It was usually the triple bogie locos that would do it.
@@wimbletrain and even 4 axel locos
Very nice video, this stuff gets confusing.
Thank you Steve. Just wanted to do a simple video on how they work. How you then wire them up and connect them into your layout is a whole new story! John
Can the number 4 points be wired to the switches?
I'm assuming your question is can the switching of the turnout be controlled by a toggle switch? If so the answer is yes, there are videos out there on how to do it but I was thinking of doing one myself. John
@@wimbletrain much appreciated just can't seem to find any vids
Underneath there are two prongs is that for the wire on the number four swirches as I bought two second hand ones woth no wires ?
@@gwrbuckleyjunction1733 Hi, you have a couple of options for replacement cables:
Kato 24-84TC HO / N Scale Replacement Turnout Cable
Kato 24-841 Turnout Extension Cord
These have the right connector to plug into the switch.
When do you use non-power routing?
Hi, one example I can think of is if you were using DCC, then you could power all of the track at once as the loco will only move if you tell it to via its DCC address.
Struggling to find Kato track in OO gauge
Hi Richard, you can use the Kato HO unitrack, the spacing of the rails is the same as OO.
What gauge wire is used on the turnouts?
Hi, what I've read around the internet, the wire supplied with the turnouts is 26 gauge. John