I haven't had this problem, however I have had problems with my track cleaning pads leaving debris on those burs, so I'd say this is a multi solution fix, thanks!
We are users of the Kato Unitrak tracks which we like very much; your explanations are very interesting and we will pay special attention to implement your solution to improve the running of our trains. Thank you very much for your help.
Stumbled across your video randomly and I’m so glad I did! I love my Kato track but I was having a strange derailment recently that sounds a lot like yours. Definitely going to give this a try. Thank you!
Glad to help. I'm amazed no one else thought of this. I found a metal working bit for my dremel. Very tiny metal tool, pointed cone that is a grinder. Allowed me to grind the ends of the glued down track.
That's a sweet little fix, thank you for sharing that👍....I'm very new to the hobby and i absolutely love the kato track..looking foreword to more of your content...😉☘
I’m new to model railway and USA 🇺🇸 locos I’m from the 🇬🇧 and I had issues too with derailment . Thanks for the info I thought it was me ,not connecting the track correctly . I’ve subscribed to your channel 👍
Just subbed your channel for this tip. I use Kato track also and I have had a few of these mysterious derailments. More on rolling stock than locomotives. Thanks for sharing. Dave
The only time the track need filing is when its base is skewed or the joiners are worn out. The tracks are mass produced so the issue is not in its design. Filing a 45 degree angle is just cutting a grove in the rail. Using the cutter to remove the joiners it most likely the root cause. The cutter can squeeze the joiner rail deforming the pin......When snapping the rail together the rail will lift up. Buy a pack of joiners and use the blue tool.
I've put together thousands of feet of track and the track where it was failing was aligned perfectly. I tried replacing track and joiners many times to resolve this issue it didn't work Doing the simple grind of the track either before it is installed with a flat file or after it is installed with a triangle file works every time It resolves almost all derailing issues I was seeing. It is a simple solution that works.
Building railroads is basic geometry. A plane is a plane. If you have to file the track rail then the rails its not on a plane........ I've built some intricate viaducts and never had to file the rails........If anything you have a camber issue or track creep. Track creep is where the track moves as the trains passes over the effected area.....Next time you are by the railroad track imagine what would happen if the railroad cut a 45 degree angle on the rail end.
The Arnold U23/25B's are really bad about small bumps because of the odd wheel arrangement of those six axle trucks. I had one hellva time trying to get that locomotive to track through certain switches. But yes doing that to the Kato track just slightly sometimes gets that bump, even with Atlas code 80 will do it too based on age.
This will help me out I have an engine where the fuel tank is right over the track and ever so often there will be a joint of rail sticks up just so slightly to catch the fuel tank and stop the train
Great idea! I will do this on the track that has yet to be laid. Now to figure out how to do this with the stuff that's already hot-glued down and had ground cover installed. 8^)
I noticed the same issue with my Kato track. Filing down the sharp corner of the rail is the fix. Maybe Kato needs to update their manufacturing process.
The trick is to nit damage the rails by flexing the joints vertically ( up and down). This damages the rail joiners slo thermal surface no longer matches smoothly. this might solve the issue.
Well , I too have this problem with a 3 axle truck on a kato engine to boot. My problem is that the track is already set in place. I will try and use a dremel drum file and see if I can just tap it enough to get near the same results.
What would be really awesome is a device that rolls over the track that grinds high spots. I'm surprised no one has invented a tool or a dremel attachment. I have this sort of track problem where turnouts connect to curved track. I can't use tight turns with turnouts.
@@michellee6829 I've been using a stone wheel on a Dremel but I find it a bit clumsy. Having a rail carriage that only grinds the high spots would be perfect.
The problem is that the Kato wheels have a very low profile and with minimal derailment. In the NEM regulation the profiles are higher and this problem is avoided. Also, sanding the rails is not good because you remove the protective layer and more will have oxidation. I do not recommend sanding the tracks. A greeting.
Not sure how you can not sand track. Painting the rails forces that. I also have few Kato locos. Most of mime are Broadway Limited, Arnold, Atlas Master, and Bachmann All have occasional derailment issues. The bevel at the end of track sections helps a lot.
I suspect that sanding the very very small end of the rail isn't goign to cause any issues. He wasn't sanding the rail heads to any degree past the the joint.
So your track aren't level with one another... and the train car wheel, being so small, now fall in the " V " you created and the noise level just shot up. I'll level my track thank you.
@@glalonde my track was perfectly level and the v grove is so small the noise is nothing. The engines make far more noise than the wheels. I bevel all my track. Makes a huge improvement in performance.
A very nice and informative video. I have an HO scale Unitrack layout, and was somewhat concerned about derailments. My question is, what is the name of the tool you used to remove the connectors/unijoiners?
@@michellee6829 Ah, OK. Thank you very much. I'm still very much a model railroad novice, so learning tips and tricks (as well as what tools to use) is very helpful to me.
How dare you tell me this after I have already put all my track down! I am in HO scale with Kato unitrack but have the same little bumps. I don't have any derailing issues because I made my track flat. I did notice that on the turnouts they can be pretty rough when the trains go over them. It's like the flanges on the wheels hit the frogs.
My track is also very flat and is N scale so much more susceptible to minor issues. If your track is already down and you want to still round off the ends just use a very fine triangle file. Works great.
Do you have an NMRA standards gauge? I suspect there's something not quite right about that axle given it's the only one that gave you problems, the flange width might be too wide or narrow, or an axle is offset somehow. This track tune-up probably helps you a bit with everything else though, and make operations a bit smoother
I did this on every track and switch. Made a huge difference. Note that this is a very small bevel on each rail. Maybe 1/10th the rail height.. Just enough to take the edge off
I've never had a problem with a turnout after a curve. the problem this video covers is happening at a long straight The wheels bouncing causing them to be OFF the track When a turnout is hit (regardless of where it is) the loco would derail. Where the turnout is located is not the issue.
😂 yeah I agree. I focused more on the long fu man chu finger nails than I did on the file job. I would invest in a long handle back scratcher to rid an itch than to rake nails into my skin.
Thanks for teaching me. Maybe on the next layout I can do this. For now it’s all glued. Envious of your ability to have “longer” nails, mine tear when short as it is. Besides, your content is solid, I didn’t even notice the “longer” nails until someone pointed them out.
I haven't had this problem, however I have had problems with my track cleaning pads leaving debris on those burs, so I'd say this is a multi solution fix, thanks!
WELL DONE IN FAULT FINDING AND SHOWING US ALL YOUR FIX
We are users of the Kato Unitrak tracks which we like very much; your explanations are very interesting and we will pay special attention to implement your solution to improve the running of our trains. Thank you very much for your help.
Stumbled across your video randomly and I’m so glad I did! I love my Kato track but I was having a strange derailment recently that sounds a lot like yours. Definitely going to give this a try. Thank you!
Me to bro just replaced a section and the track will not snap it even its pissing me off
This may of explained how I suffered multiple derailments at locations I just couldn't fathom . THANKYOU .👍👍👍👍
Watching Tips From Different People on Different Problems Rocks! This is why I love Model Railroading.
Never heard this fix before,will definitely try it out
You Rock! Thank you. Also, if you could run more passenger trains please. You're layout is wonderful.
Great tip, I too have an issue with a given engine. I'm going to give your tip a try. Appreciate your video.
A precious and clever tip! Thank you.
Thanks so much for the tip,before train seem to bounce at joint and a couple of derail.,now runs so smooth
Glad to help. I'm amazed no one else thought of this.
I found a metal working bit for my dremel. Very tiny metal tool, pointed cone that is a grinder. Allowed me to grind the ends of the glued down track.
That's a sweet little fix, thank you for sharing that👍....I'm very new to the hobby and i absolutely love the kato track..looking foreword to more of your content...😉☘
I’m new to model railway and USA 🇺🇸 locos I’m from the 🇬🇧 and I had issues too with derailment . Thanks for the info I thought it was me ,not connecting the track correctly .
I’ve subscribed to your channel 👍
Glad it helped. Minor change the really helps with the derailments
Great tip. Thank you!
Just subbed your channel for this tip. I use Kato track also and I have had a few of these mysterious derailments. More on rolling stock
than locomotives. Thanks for sharing. Dave
WOW!!! Dude, I've been having the same problem! I'm gonna go through my track and try your fix. Thank you so much!
I did something very similar but I did it with my track altogether and i got similar results! Great job!
nice tip for using any kind of sectional road bad track
Great info. Thanks
The only time the track need filing is when its base is skewed or the joiners are worn out. The tracks are mass produced so the issue is not in its design.
Filing a 45 degree angle is just cutting a grove in the rail. Using the cutter to remove the joiners it most likely the root cause. The cutter can squeeze the joiner rail deforming the pin......When snapping the rail together the rail will lift up. Buy a pack of joiners and use the blue tool.
I've put together thousands of feet of track and the track where it was failing was aligned perfectly.
I tried replacing track and joiners many times to resolve this issue
it didn't work
Doing the simple grind of the track either before it is installed with a flat file or after it is installed with a triangle file works every time
It resolves almost all derailing issues I was seeing.
It is a simple solution that works.
Building railroads is basic geometry. A plane is a plane. If you have to file the track
rail then the rails its not on a plane........
I've built some intricate viaducts and never had to file the rails........If anything you have a camber issue or track creep. Track creep is where the track moves as the trains passes over the effected area.....Next time you are by the railroad track imagine what would happen if the railroad cut a 45 degree angle on the rail end.
The Arnold U23/25B's are really bad about small bumps because of the odd wheel arrangement of those six axle trucks. I had one hellva time trying to get that locomotive to track through certain switches. But yes doing that to the Kato track just slightly sometimes gets that bump, even with Atlas code 80 will do it too based on age.
This will help me out I have an engine where the fuel tank is right over the track and ever so often there will be a joint of rail sticks up just so slightly to catch the fuel tank and stop the train
Great idea! I will do this on the track that has yet to be laid. Now to figure out how to do this with the stuff that's already hot-glued down and had ground cover installed. 8^)
A small grinder (eg:dremel) with a fine grinding tip
@@michellee6829 Might have to give that a try.
I’m certainly going to try that. Cheers!
Thank you. I was looking for a solution for th same exact problem.
Great know. Thanks
I was just going to try the file method when they were connected. I will try your way!
This fix works with all manufactures of all scales, but the smaller scale the more it tends to derail wheel sets.
triangle jewelers file in the groove will get the same results without pulling tracks!
nice work fixing that!
I noticed the same issue with my Kato track. Filing down the sharp corner of the rail is the fix. Maybe Kato needs to update their manufacturing process.
Great video. Awesome tip.👍👍👍
The trick is to nit damage the rails by flexing the joints vertically ( up and down). This damages the rail joiners slo thermal surface no longer matches smoothly. this might solve the issue.
Agreed however all my track was glued down and secured horizontally. All my suggestion does is allow a smother transition from section to section.
I use a flat file for new track and a triangle file for track already laid down. Again, it requires very little removal of material.
Well , I too have this problem with a 3 axle truck on a kato engine to boot. My problem is that the track is already set in place. I will try and use a dremel drum file and see if I can just tap it enough to get near the same results.
What would be really awesome is a device that rolls over the track that grinds high spots. I'm surprised no one has invented a tool or a dremel attachment. I have this sort of track problem where turnouts connect to curved track. I can't use tight turns with turnouts.
@@fourbypete for track that was in place I used a small triangle file to fix any derailing issues. Worked well in most cases.
@@michellee6829 I've been using a stone wheel on a Dremel but I find it a bit clumsy. Having a rail carriage that only grinds the high spots would be perfect.
Thanks - most helpful
The problem is that the Kato wheels have a very low profile and with minimal derailment. In the NEM regulation the profiles are higher and this problem is avoided. Also, sanding the rails is not good because you remove the protective layer and more will have oxidation. I do not recommend sanding the tracks. A greeting.
Not sure how you can not sand track. Painting the rails forces that. I also have few Kato locos. Most of mime are Broadway Limited, Arnold, Atlas Master, and Bachmann
All have occasional derailment issues. The bevel at the end of track sections helps a lot.
I suspect that sanding the very very small end of the rail isn't goign to cause any issues. He wasn't sanding the rail heads to any degree past the the joint.
Thanks for the Tip.
I Run Bachman N Scale I am not Having any problems. But to see this I am Sure this is Happening to All Scales I’ll keep this is In Mind.
Cool idea
So your track aren't level with one another... and the train car wheel, being so small, now fall in the " V " you created and the noise level just shot up.
I'll level my track thank you.
@@glalonde my track was perfectly level and the v grove is so small the noise is nothing. The engines make far more noise than the wheels. I bevel all my track. Makes a huge improvement in performance.
A very nice and informative video. I have an HO scale Unitrack layout, and was somewhat concerned about derailments. My question is, what is the name of the tool you used to remove the connectors/unijoiners?
Just a standard pair of wire cutters
@@michellee6829 Ah, OK. Thank you very much. I'm still very much a model railroad novice, so learning tips and tricks (as well as what tools to use) is very helpful to me.
Should I do this trick on my O scale, or are the cars heavy enough not to worry about it?
Don't know, never ran O scale. Try it and see would be my suggestion.
I take off very little of the rail.
You are talking about the RAIL correct?
Yes
How dare you tell me this after I have already put all my track down! I am in HO scale with Kato unitrack but have the same little bumps. I don't have any derailing issues because I made my track flat.
I did notice that on the turnouts they can be pretty rough when the trains go over them. It's like the flanges on the wheels hit the frogs.
My track is also very flat and is N scale so much more susceptible to minor issues.
If your track is already down and you want to still round off the ends just use a very fine triangle file.
Works great.
Nice video , I like the cars. Where do you buy cars 👍thanks
Mostly I search eBay for good deals.
@@michellee6829 thanks , i Will try there 👍have à nice day
good vid
I gave up with the whole thing because of too many derailments!
What grade sanding file did you use.
I just used a hobby file.
It is just a tiny bevel almost invisible to the eye.
Do you have an NMRA standards gauge? I suspect there's something not quite right about that axle given it's the only one that gave you problems, the flange width might be too wide or narrow, or an axle is offset somehow. This track tune-up probably helps you a bit with everything else though, and make operations a bit smoother
is it adviseable to do the same to the curved parts of track as i have noticed a few of my locos do derail.
I did this on every track and switch. Made a huge difference. Note that this is a very small bevel on each rail. Maybe 1/10th the rail height.. Just enough to take the edge off
If you are using kato #4 switches you might want to watch my video #v0076
I may just borrow my sons" and do that.
Rule #1: never put a turnout at the end of a curved section.
I've never had a problem with a turnout after a curve.
the problem this video covers is happening at a long straight
The wheels bouncing causing them to be OFF the track
When a turnout is hit (regardless of where it is) the loco would derail.
Where the turnout is located is not the issue.
If your really careful you can use a chainsaw
I'm confused, chainsaw for what?
I’m really sorry but please can you cut your nails other than that this video helped
Nails are not going to be cut.
Glad the fix helped you out.
😂 yeah I agree. I focused more on the long fu man chu finger nails than I did on the file job. I would invest in a long handle back scratcher to rid an itch than to rake nails into my skin.
Don't think so, Woman
Thanks for teaching me. Maybe on the next layout I can do this. For now it’s all glued. Envious of your ability to have “longer” nails, mine tear when short as it is. Besides, your content is solid, I didn’t even notice the “longer” nails until someone pointed them out.
@@mikeg3360 - I'm a woman
My, what long fingernails you have !
Woman usually have longer fingernails ❤
Well I think their lovely, am jealous !@@michellee6829
Great tip. Thank you.