Safe Motor Oil Flush Using Kerosene
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- Опубликовано: 31 дек 2016
- I'm flushing the motor oil of a Saturn SC2 2002 model, using kerosene. Flushing agents like kerosene and diesel are great tools for gutting out and cleaning sludge from all the large and narrow oil passageways in your car. Your engine will run cleaner and more efficiently when these passageway are sludge free.
Engine oil flushes, however, can damage rubber oil seals and gaskets if they are done too frequently and/or if performed with undiluted flushes where all the oil is drained from the crankcase beforehand. Research this topic before attempting. In extreme cases an undiluted flush may be necessary. 
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The roads must be covered in soap where you’re from because that’s the cleanest undercarriage I’ve ever seen!
right. i expected the oil to be golden
😂😂😂
😂😂😂
My old neighbor used to do this .He drained all the old oil ,filled crankcase with kerosene. He pulled coil wire and turned the motor over for a while. He didnt start it. He drained kero put cheap filter and oil in ,drove it around the block. Then he drained oil ,put good filter and oil in .He had over 300,000 miles on a 69 chevy wagon . 327 block . The car outlived him .
My Grandfather had a 1955 Dodge Truck. Same exact process and it was the cleanest internals I had/have ever seen in a vehicle.
To be fair I don't think today's seals could withstand this as well as compared to how they built engines in the past. But so much of that knowledge on how to even properly do the process and in what amounts is lost. If I recollect he mixed off road diesel in as well.
I remember my grandfather showing me once when I was 7-9. But without writing it down and no video from that time good luck to me ever trying to experiment with it myself.
Pipe smoker and engine flusher here.
Good vid 🙂 Also the cleanest car chassis I've ever seen
Meth pipe I take it
I’m 74, been a motor head since I was a kid. This Kerosene method is something I’ve seen for years. Just run the engine until good and warm. Drain off about half to three quarters of the lube, add kerosene or kerosene and diesel mix to the full mark. Then start and let the engine idle for 10-15 minutes. Stop and drain all that old crap out. The install new filter and fresh specified oil. Best way as far as I’m concerned is to only add a quart of type A transmission fluid just before and oil change, do that same. The Automatic Transmission Fluid does not deteriorate the seals and gaskets...
Nice way to dilute your engine oil. Probably fine on older engines.
ATF is much lower viscosity, thinner and has far less detergents. Just use a fully formulated oil with proper viscosity. Double oil change,10-20% of old oilwill remain, which breaks down into sludge.
@@tssci6774 this won’t work as well as atf. ATF is thinner so it will dissolve sludge way more
@hextorcampis6113 it's not the viscosity of the that removes sludge, but advance detergents in a fully formulated oil that will do it gradually, safely, and will harm bearings, seals, oe gaskets.
It's refreshing to read comments to videos like these and realise 80% of people have no idea what they're talking about. I wouldn't let most of you pump gas into my car let alone work on it.
Please enlighten us then as to what it is exactly that is wrong with the comments, and what you would do different instead of leaving us in the dark.
YEARS AGO A GUY I WORKED WITH DECIDED TO DO THIS
HIMSELF!!
SOME TOLD HIM TO USE KEROSENE, BUT LOOKING AROUND THE KANSAS CITY KANSAS AREA , HE COULD FIND NO KEROSENE TO PURCHASE!
NO PROBLEM , HE THOUGHT,
SO HE USED GASOLINE , 2 QUARTS, AND 3 QUARTS OIL!
HE THEN STARTED THE ENGINE AND HE THEN DECIDED TO LET IT IDLE FOR 15 MINUTES!
HE SAT DOWN ON HIS PORCH
AND OPENED A BEER !
AFTER IDLING FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES THE GAS FUMES
IN THE ENGINE IGNITED
AND BLEW THE PAN AND BOTH ROCKER ARM COVERS COMPLETELY OFF!!
LOL LOL, BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD!! LOL 🔥🔥🔧🔧🔧🛠🛠
Diesel is REALLY close to Kerosene, not explosive like gasoline, he should've used that.
Expensive lesson !
You are pouring the new oil with the container oriented upside down. If you turn it around, the oil will pour smoothly from the beginning instead of glugging.
Indeed!!!
Antifreeze, to. Seen people splatter it all.over pouring it the wrong way.😊😅
a lot may know but for those who don't when pouring oil tip the bottle on its largest side to pour as it reduces the premature ejaculation
I remember my grandfather doing this to his older vehicles he would drain everything out and then mix 3/4 of kerosene and 2 quarts of cheap oil and fill it back up with that mixture and let it run for 5 minutes drain it all out and then add 2 quarts of cheap oil to push the kerosene out that would lay in the rocker arm galleys and lifter galleys otherwise you would have about a half a pint of kerosene still in the engine when you was done. Just a helpful thought
I've had good and bad experiences with flushing engines. Good: People have given me lawnmowers that have smoked. I checked the oil, and it had chunks of carbon in it. Neglect and running the mower in Yuma Arizona when it is 105+ outside. I used some flush, and it loosened up the rings because it quit smoking. BTW: the best thing to run in these air cooled engine is 15w-40. I ran some flush in my '91 Ford Ranger, and the oil pump started knocking because the flush cleaned the varnish that closed the tolerances in the oil pump. Now I run 10-40 and a can of STP to keep it quiet. Another time a friend flushed the engine in his car, and a lifter started knocking. A piece of grit dislodged, got into the lifter, and it would not pump up after that. I ran 15-40 in a very old engine that ran fine, and after a while it started smoking. That high detergent oil cleaned out the carbon or varnish that was helping to push the rings out. My minivan has 148,000 miles on it and it always had the oil changed every 3000 miles. I removed the valve covers to change the gaskets, and the engine looked like it had about 20,000 miles on it. Absolutely clean.
following someone's advice from a workshop, I did this every 4 oil changes (changed oil every 10k kms). Usually added 0.5 l of kerosene and run for 10 -15 minutes. Did it for 17 years, 250k km. Never had a problem with the engine.
wow a whole 250k km -_-
@@Xiferr that's about 150 thousand miles to our SI challenged friends
@@avgeek1930 whats SI ??
@@MrRasZee Système International , the metric system
just curious.. add 0.5 l with or without draining any of the engine oil?
I work in research and development for a large auto manufacturer. I work with engineers and chemists every day. Most of them have their PhD. The majority of the comments here is nonsense. Its amazing how many fluids weve developed in the lab for technicians to use in dealerships and garages, that have diesel and/or transmission fluid. I remember at one point we were having a problem in some engines. The lab ended up being the group that created a working solution to the problem. It was a 10 ounce bottle that consisted of 90% transmission fluid ( same exact stuff gm uses) and a couple other chemicals. That bottle was labeled our company name and logo. And shipped out for $70 a bottle.
Amazing right. We all beleive this shit happens but, we never really know. I always thought that sort of thing happened. But, I didnt know for sure. When I witnessed it my self, for some reason I was amazed. I seen it happen over and over in the last 16 years I've been in r&d. I dont trust anyone. Do what you find works for you and stick with it. That is exactly what they do. They throw things at a problem until something works. Then they charge everyone who asks an arm and a leg for the answer.
yah... but you could just be making this up lol
@Chopshop2 M i was only being a wee sarcastic dick. his story is perfectly plausible!
you are the floor cleaner?
Useful video, however a better order of operation would be:
1. Never use Fram, spend an extra $4-5 and get a Mobil 1, Wix, or Napa Gold filter. Lots of videos on the cardboard construction of most Fram filters. 2. Run the removed oil through a coffee filter to see if there are any shavings, etc. 3. Add oil to your oil filter before installing to reduce further oil starvation upon first start-up. 4. Add your oil first, then the more viscous oil thickener/anti-smoke additive, which if added first will take longer to thin out and actually lubrication going upon first start.
KOOO
Add oil to an "upside down" oil filter
Fram ultra actually has better filtration than above mentioned filters.
i heard once about filling the oil filter w ATF.... during an oil change
Wow! That car looks brand new for being a 2002 Saturn that is immaculate!
I had a 2000 Jag S-type with an engine full of sludge. Flushed it with kerosene similar to this
Cleaned it up perfectly. Drove the car another few years and eventually sold it.
Quick question.. Would u do this in a 2014 Nissan Maxima??
Definitely a 2013 or 2015, but never a 2014.youre asking for trouble.
Wisdom of a King , You rule !
@@Critical_Stinking
I have done this with 1 gt of diesel per 3-4 qts of oil and it worked fine. I would not do it unless you know you have a sludge issue as there is risk in doing this. I would do this when the risk of doing nothing outweighs the risk of doing it. I did this on both a 95 Saturn SC2 and an 89 4.3 Blazer. Both engines had so much sludge that fresh oil after an oil changed looked as bad as what I took out. After doing this fix, new oil (oil in the pan with only a test run on it) remained clean looking for several thousand miles. I agree, if you use better oil, you might never have to do this.
I've got the exact same oil catching thing! It's so much better than using an old washing up bowl like I used to.
After you drained the oil it's a good idea to put the plug in and pour straight kerosene into the pan and let it sit then drain it to remove the sludge that sits on the bottom of the pan. I change the filter and Dina 50/50 blend of New Oil and kerosene and run the vehicle for 15 to 20 minutes and drain that oil into a container and use it for flushing purpose ONLY it helps clean sludge .... This internal cleaning helps clean the passages etc of all dirty sentiments that hurt in the engineering I passes in the head and everywhere else... I also take that filter off and save it for future use .... This method is a less expensive commercial engine flush which they charge $100.00 for at most lube outlets .... Your cost 1 filter 2 quarts or litres or oil and 2 quarts or litres of kerosene.
Your oil after changes will be clean for a longer period of time
RIGHT
I love you cause you provide videos on how to safely flush your engine.
Good to see marv from home alone is on the straight and narrow.
Worked in bodyshop years ago where one co worker would drain the oil filter first and fill it with kerosene and run the motor for a minute , then drain the oil.
Ive been using Kerosene since the 80's. Works great.
Saw you weren't pouring the oil out of the container properly, next time instead of pouring out with the hole on the bottom, try pouring the Quart of Oil with the hole or opening at the top, you'll see it'll pour Smoother. Love how your using Kerosene and give the appropriate warnings how to use and when.
You must live in a non-snowy area, that oil pan/undercarriage looks new!
My thoughts exactly!
Or he just cleans it
CALI DATSUN no stupid, he means how ice and snow melting salts rust the fuck out of the undercarriage. Notging to do with mud or whatever the hell youre thinking..
CALI DATSUN LOOOOOOOOL NO....
If you hose off the under carriage, as CALI DATSUN stated, the underside will be less likely to rust.
To all the people that say Kerosene and Diesel are ruining his seals...gasoline is just a lighter version of both Kerosene and Diesel...made from the SAME dino oil (and synthetic is just chemically combined natural gas molecules)...plus he didn't drain ALL the oil...he only diluted both the dirty oil with clean Kerosene, then idled for 10 min or so (no heavy load on the engine or the hydrodynamic wedge of the crank bearings)...then drained...not going to damage the seals...because if Kerosene or Diesel damaged them...then gasoline blowby getting into the oil would damage it as well...
Newer oils with better friction/viscosity modifier packages, anti foaming, controlling chemical breakdown and contamination, plus seal conditioner additives are much less likely to sludge up than older oils... Hence the better API/SAE "SN" or better rating of most modern oils...
www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
Brian C finally a comment made by a real mechanic idk where all this doom and gloom is coming from when most engine flush has kerosene in them.
I like you. You sound smart.
After watching, I would use kerosene, for about 5-6 after warming and removingthe oil. (2-3 quarts) Then I would run it for the time and drain..then remove all plugs and pour B-12 and let sit for a couple of days with the plugs back in. Drain/blow everything, re-lube all cly's/change oil and go.
D00d! This is the right way to flush an engine! Kerosene, not #2 deisel fuel, ever! I did this with my Rambler in the 70s, I was told to use only one quart to 4 qts oil, idle only for one hour. Good job here only idling for ten minutes really, that is enough for newer engines that aren't full of sludge already. My old Rambler was pretty filthy inside. Good video, nice editing and Bravo! More Cow Bell, you're using Kerosene.
Last year I sold my 16 year old vehicle with over 300,000 miles on it. The engine ( Ford 4.6 v8 ) had no sludge and was as clean as the day it came off the showroom floor. ( Still had the original transmission with no work or trouble ) The engine never needed any type of cleaning or work and never used more than a 1/4 qt between oil changes. Always used a good filter ( not Fram) and Pennzoil conventional 5w30 per the manufacturer. Changed the oil every 6 months or 4000 miles. If you take care of your engine, you should never need to clean it. Oil changes are cheap. If you do flush with kerosene even after you drain it and add new oil the new oil will remain contaminated and will cause damage to your motor and again will need replaced within a few hundred miles. As a oil professional I would never recommend putting anything other than oil in the crankcase. A good oil and filter will clean the engine over time if it's changed regularly.
+kcp71
16 years and 300k! That's fantastic but what about the valve stem seals?
They get hard with time and leak oil into the combustion chamber. My car takes more than a quart/1000 miles. I wonder, If a kerosene or diesel fuel flush would help. It might (at least temporarily) soften the seals? I'm willing to try it before taking the engine apart...
2011 Crown Vic, 250,000 miles, but not the first owner.
Any ideas? Thank You.
My 4.6 never used more than a 1/2 quart between oil changes. I changed the oil every 3000-4000 miles or 6 months. I still had the original transmission. ( Flushed every 30,000 miles ) I would never recommend a kero flush, try a few oil changes with a good quality high mileage oil. It worked on my son's GM car cutting down on oil consumption.
So how do you explain the MMO being 50 % kerosene then?
@@kcp71 that only works of there’s no sludge to begin with.
@@claudio67362 it’s not. Sources? MMO is ATF based with additives. This is straight from MMO people’s mouth who actually work with it. Watch Fordboss channel
I flushed my truck with diesel and the amount of grit that washed out was incredible.
You were doing so well - flush - oil drain - lucas - even removed a Fram filter - but then replaced it with another Fram filter. Dude.
when you dran the oil there is a bit left in the engine....so that means a bit of kerosene will mix with the new oil and change its chemistry.....i just use mobil1 all the time
All it takes is change oil ahead of any recommended timeline using a good oil that meets the specs and you'll never ever have sludge in your engine.
No sh!t, did you watch the video? This is for engines that have carbon/sludge problems
@@jtyree0226 NO SHIT! DID YOU READ MY COMMENT DIPSTICK?
@@jtyree0226 😂😁
Thanks for the lecture dad
@@hextorcampis6113 I guess if you're needing to flush your engine you needed the lecture, kid.
Nothing compares with Australian product called ‘flushing oil concentrate ‘ from cost effective maintenance, best oil flush I’ve ever seen!
I remember one of the ace mechanics back in the 50's draining out a quart of oil and adding a qt of kerosene, running it not much above idle, never driving it until hot then flushing. Great flushing agent but hardly a new discovery.
I use very thin cheap oil. Run for one hour drain and let drip for 2 hours. New filter fresh correct oil and off you go.
Happy driving.
this is exactly what i do, in addition i run the cleaner oil across a filter to check for metal.
I like your idea best.
Me too I do same
You my friend just described a full volume oil change which is well known in the industrial lubrication industry. It is the safest and most affective method to clean your engine. The detergents and dispersants will now be able to do their job rather than dealing with the 10-20% of used oil and solvents in the oil.
One of the best..
I can agree with some of these comments. That undercarriage is in phenomenal shape and it's nice to see someone that takes care of vehicle like me, especially a Saturn. Were always great cars. Although I like Lucas in my Jeep with my Saturn's I ran restore that pretty much fixed the blow by
Has nothing to do with "takes care of vehicle". It merely means it wasn't driving in much salted winter road conditions.
I just change the oil religiously at 8k or one year, whichever comes first.
During it’s last service, the mechanic said he’d have happily put the old oil from my car into his own.
If you change the oil when you’re meant to, you won’t get sludge.
Oil quality and how severe work load on the engine along with temperatures it is operated in .Also how efficient the pcv system operates. If the pcv does not work you will sludge up the engine pretty much
You pour your oil in upside-down. Flip the bottle over and it will flop out less. There's a reason there's a sloped side on the bottle ;).
MultiChimRichalds literally only reading the comments to see if this was here before I said it.
MultiChimRichalds I was about to say the samething until I seen your comment,if you flip it over it will pour out smooth
That was a bit nerve racking and haha just pour the kerosene no measuring needed.
just turn the bottle sideways..
The same brain that pours upside down is teaching you about engines...
If you are suffering from blowby issue, use 20 points up viscosity (if using 10w30, go for 10w50) engine oil instead of putting in lucas viscosity improver which loses its viscosity rather quickly
Advice from experience.
Or mix 5/10w30 with 20w50, 1:1
@@thesetruths1404 thats a good idea, however I would stick with same brand oil for better chemical compatibility
To all the haters that comment on killing his motor .... my 51 hornet calls for a kerosene flush once a year from the factory manual . Car today with good detergent oils probably don’t need this ..... but let’s actually think before we speak , unless you have done it and killed your engine , your opinion is crap . Like I said flathead engines with non detergent oil back in the day , This was the only recommended way to clean sludge
Jeffrey Molinelli facts
Amen to this, my 53 merc flathead was full of tarlike sludge, had to use wooden dowel to break up sludgepockets that would clog up the oil pan drain after drainplug removed. Poured straight gasoline to liquefy path out, then put straight diesel fuel in crankcase. Ran it idling for 5 minutes, what a difference. Did the diesel trick twice, then new oil, engine runs like a Swiss watch, clean and strong.
Its OK if its factory approved. You are an idiot if you do it in anything else. nothing since the 50's.
My '51 Mercury calls for 10% kerosene added to the oil when temps are below freezing. Says right inside the glove compartment.
You're right; an claim without evidence is non-factual and shouldnt be believed right away. Even anecdotes based on experience have some basis to go on.
kerosene won't harm seals unless if you use the gasoline.. here in the philippines sometimes we can't afford that flushing oil in cans.. as a substitute for that we kerosene.. and it's effective and more affordable we use it in both engine petrol and diesel and it did good..
sir what happen if accidentally use a gasoline,what will happen in the engine?
What about any residue kerosene? Is it still ok. Also please tell me the percentage. My oil capacity is 9 litres.
iVlogBuzz Residual kerosene will vaporize and be drawn out through the PCV system or whatever other crankshaft ventilation exists. But don't use kerosene in a modern engine. If you think your engine is dirty, use Mystery Oil, Seafoam, anything made to be put in the engine oil. Or just use synthetic or semisynthetic oil and acceletate your oil change intervals. The major consequence of a dirty engine is stuck piston rings. This means rings where the grooves are solid with carbon. Kerosene will not clean these out. A good solvent product might help. Synthetic oil might help. Driving a very long distance might help. Or maybe nothing will help. Not in common problem in contemporary engines though, as far as I know.
Higher wear rates because gasoline is a poor lubricant.
Anonymike, Essentialube or Marvel Mystery Oil squirted into the cylinders with a plastic syringe, approx. 10ml for most engines. Apply through the spark plug holes. Let this wick into the rigs for 2 hours or more. Overnight if practical. Seafoam may work as well but I have not tried it.
im a footwear manufacturer and i use kerosene to loosen excess neoprene adhesives.Kerosene really softens up those tough spillage.Imagine what it'll do to your rubber seals.
You're right. It's a rubber killer.
What rubber seals are inside an engine?
10072018 Main seal on the back of the crankshaft, the valve stem seals, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket. The list goes on.
Yup and that is why I use ATF in engine flushes.
Manny Fernandez imagine what oil would do to rubber seals!!
Oil ruins rubber
I did it once, it's effective and safe. Sovled camshaft oiling problem in my 1978 opel ascona.
Nothing would fix a rolling pile of garbage like an Opel...not even new parts
That car was burning camshafts because of grease in small slots Almost 40 years and still runnin in the ways, I have 2 modern cars btw
Kerosene is the active ingredient in many engine flush products and many years ago was the cheapest most popular method to cleanse engines. Technology has since moved on and it has been proven the dangers of flushing engines with Kerosene outweigh the benefits for both modern and older engines.
Drain out all the old oil and refill with circa 4 litres of diesel. Remove the plugs and spin the engine over on the starter several times and drain out. Refill with approx
2.5 litres of new oil with a new filter. Run the engine to temperature, drain and refill with another new filter. Job done.
My 1.4 16valve Fiesta has done 145k miles and ive done this at 40k, 80k & 120k miles. The engine runs like new, the oil stays yellow between services ( every 3k miles) and uses absolutely no oil.
Bore scoping still shows the factory cross hatching..
I use diesel to flush out then let it drip overnight. been doing this for my truck & sub for 5 years & it's great. better change oil your self than others do it for you.
Alvin Balonglong You have a sub? How deep under water can it go?
How much i can add in 2.5 ltr gasoline engine with 170,000 km
diesel engine oil is a very good flush.
I’ve done this twice so far. On A 2001 Highlander V6 1MZ and a 95 camry 2.2. It’s been years since I’ve done it, I use a little bit of marvel in each vehicle at each oil change and they both work great no issues at all. I did change oil after 3 days of driving each of them when I finished the flush and drained it out. Also I added a quart in each vehicle and did not drain any oil prior to adding a flush.
Hi David, just try to understand exactly what you did. Did you mean you just added a quart of Kerosene to engine to do the flush and then change the oil, and change oil again right after 3 days of driving? My HL is burning oil and try to follow your method. Thank you for your experience! Larry
@@larryliang2173 more info on your car? Year and engine size and mileage? This won’t help with burning oil this helps to clean the engine. You may want a product like Lucas oil stabilizer
You gota love those older twin cam Saturn engines; they go forever. Ive used the kerosene flush to clean up and hopefully quiet lifter tap lifters on older engines. 20 to 25% Lucas for blowby? Anything more than 10 to 12% for a forced induction race engine qualifies for a rebuild. That much for a gasoline daily driver means its time for at least rings possibly new pistons or time to find a buyer for the car. Being an original Saturn engine I would rebuild it without thinking twice.
There's your main problem. Using the most worthless oil filter in the world. Sure, it's got a grip on the end, but the crap filter material inside blows out allowing unfiltered oil to just bypass the filter.
100,000 Mile Tune-Up, so which is better with your experience, diesel or kerosene? Did you use those two products because it cleans the engine better over conventional engine flush products? What was your approach to all this?
Your braver than me mate
I’d be too scared of stuffing up a rubber seal...... make matters worse...
how you will remove rest of kerosine from engine-it always left some amount even you leave to drain it for long time, and then it will dilute new oil.
better is to change oil when it start to be dark, so there will not left any dirt, sludge, etc.
i change oil every 3000-4500 miles, and engine is very clean( as new) from inside-checked when removed heads for porting
Just a tip, it's easier to pour without chugging if you turn the bottle with the front or back label facing you
Its a good idea to fill your oil filter with fresh oil before installing, so the engine gets lubrication right away, rather than having the oil pump fill it up, and air bubbles in the oil passages on start up. Can't say i recommend lucas oil stabilizer since it gums up and turns into a hard cement
That myth has been busted. Especially because he didn’t actually drain all the oil out.
One thing worth noting too folks is not to leave the oil filter on while draining the oil ( think of when you hold your finger over a straw and you can maintain water inside the straw until you let your finger off ), you are better off to loosen the oil filter straight after you remove the sump plug and also take the oil cap off the top of then engine - that way it creates a nice "vacum" if you like through the engine from top to bottom and helps remove all the oil out everywhere. Otherwise with the oil filter left on, you can get residual oil remaining in and around the filter and engine galleries.
Regular oil hot oil changes and a good filter will keep your car going for a lot of distance. This type of thing to me with the modern oils we have is unnecessary. This may have been ok for a Model T Ford. Regular servicing folks
I use BG EPR. I've used it on saturns with blowby problems and it reduces or removes them completely. Removes carbon from piston rings and makes them seal better. I have personally done all the research on all the products and they do what they claim.
Looks like some good stuff.
Great guide, does this method also restore initial engine compression and pressure the way additives like Bizol o90 system oil clean + does?
And what are it's pros and cons as compared to say that bizol product?
Thanks
Can you do it with diesel engines? I am a bit hesitant as ignition occurs from compression not spark plugs and might blow the head gasket???
Anyone who has rebuilt an engine knows that the oil galleries and passages rarely become clogged with sludge. It is most in the pan or caked on non-contact surfaces in the crankcase or valvetrain area. Only in the very worst cases does this happen. Performing a Full Volume Oil Change, double flush, with a fully formulated oil and letting the detergents and dispersants do their job will be more affective and 100% safe. Using a solvent is never safe. I see from your multiple videos and admission that you flush your engine quite often, not just at the 100k mile mark. This might explain the high blow-by and oil consumption. These Gen I Ecotec engines are known for their longevity. May want to cut back on the solvents and use 100% oil. The average spill and fill will leave behind 10-20% of oil. Companies use this fact to push their gimick flushes, making think the dark oil that comes out of the pan is their product cleaning the engine. You get the same affect by just flushing with clean oil and driving it on the highway for 30 minutes. It will come out dark. Next time, perform a double flush, then add your favorite flush product and see what it looks like.
When would you change the oil filters? After draining the old oil and filling up? And then again with the new oil?
@K0nst4nt1n96 a new filter on the first drain and refill. Rinse and refill. I run 10k intervals, again filter change at 5k.
Ok..Something to consider..Depending on mileage or terrible missed/ misused servicing..Any engine with excessive Sludge/Carbon byproducts are questionable when attempting to Flush Materials..Safest way out of all methods is ATF..One quart added/ Run at idle to 2000 rpm for 1 hour/ No driving/Vehicle parked/ Fire Extinquisher Safety/ Drain and Oil Change Filter Service...Sludge/ Carbon removal may have been holding seals and rings and bearings together..Be ready for Big Repairs if something happens...Used vehicles with no records are the worst.....
No matter how long you drain your mixture for, you will always have kerosene left in those passages and in your head... so when you put your new oil in it'll be contaminated by the kerosene...
Kerosene will break down the chemical composition of the oil, that or a bit of dirty carbon / sludgy deposits, which is worse?
I used to to do flushes like this (and the flush aditives) on my cars / pump motors / lawnmowers etc, I LOVE golden oil on the dipstick after MILES of driving... but that's not worth the harm you do in the long run...
A better idea is to use cheap (and even maybe a thinner grade) but proper oil as a full flush (normal oil change - without a new filter...)
Then after about 150km of driving do another proper oil change with your preferred brand of good quality oil and your new oil filter.
When you drain the cheap oil, you can keep it for your next oil change / flush.
Is why drive for 500 miles then change oil again. So that next oil change will be pure oil no containminents.
RUN the engine for a minute or so, before checking the oil. The filter will take up some of the oil as it primes. A filter that size may hold up to 1/2 of a quart. When measuring the amount of oil, the dipstick may show above the full mark, until the engine has been run, and the filter has completely filled.
In the video it looks like you flushed this particular car two other times using other flushes. So you have 3 hundred thousand miles on this car when using Kerosene?
I've used fram extra guard with conventional oil on my 2015 Nissan Versa, did the oil changes every 5k on regular conventional oil with fram extra guard and no problems. Now I'm running full synthetic with Bosh filter and still no problem. It doesnt matter what filter or oil you use as long as you change it at the recommended interval.
Wrong, you always want to spend more than the $4-5 a cheapo Fram will cost, if you value your investment.
Might not need full synthetic if you fall for the hype that you need to do an OC every 3-3.5K miles, however a decent synthetic like Amazon Basics with a Wix, Napa Gold or Mobil 1 for $7-8 should let you easily run 10K miles before OC. End results it fewer oil changes of cheapo stuff while running much better oils with much better filtration. Penny-wise and pound foolish.
@@boots7859 Wix is the only filter company you mentioned that makes its own oil filter. Everyone else you mentioned is made by Champion Labs. All overpriced junk made to the same specifications with a slightly different drain back. Back 10 years ago Fram paper filters were garbage and Fram almost went bankrupt due to people showing what Fram was using to filter oil on RUclips. Since then Fram has came leaps and bounds, so the El cheapo filters aren't so bad nowadays and a good filter considering Champion Labs haven't changed much and now considered sub par due to the RUclips torture tests.
i legit had a fram kill my ending with it broke up and sent shit in to the engine
Changing your engine oil before gets really dirty will prevent this from happening. I change The oil on my truck every 2500 miles regardless of how clean the oil still is. Some say it is excessive and waste of money. But it’s The debris suspended in the oil what is abrasive. Long before the oil itself has lost its viscosity there is grit although microscopic floating around in the oil. I’m planning to keep my truck a very long time and oil is cheap. It’s easy enough to change oil and I hate car payments. Cars that go over 300,000 miles without rebuilding the engine usually have a common factor. The owner was diligent about changing oil and filter. Once your rings are worn to the point that blow by is getting excessive the oil will get dirty or even faster and fuel vapors will “thin” the oil. Is your goal to get the most out of your oil or to get the most out of your automobile??? It’s a lot easier to come up with the money for oil then coming up with the money to buy a new vehicle.
like how you don't fill the vid with useless commentary 👍
At 5:33 you add Lucus to fix the blow-by problem, you would be better off with RESTORE because it can fill the scratches causing your engine problem. No engine flush or oil additive can fix a badly worn engine but the restore stuff does wonders to improve compression.
Everything was going fine until he spun on the orange fram filter
It's a Saturn..lol..I don't think it matters..that's the car GM makes with the left over parts..
I agree %1000 .... but filter is better than no filter
@@tashaarellano7680 these cars are very reliable I have a 98 with 280.000 miles still going strong
@@Devo1987 ..I meant no disrespect ..I'm a GM guy through and through..but every maker has that one line of vehicles that just don't hold up to the consumers standards..but that's not saying that a few of the same line of cars doesn't have a special one in there every now and again..I love 1500 chevy..our 2012 sonic is literally rated the worst car built since 1996 and beyond..but ours has never messed up.. gets great fuel mileage and a quick nimble little car so I feel were u r coming from..like I said before I meant no disrespect for the driver's of these machines..it's that I have turned wrenches all my life and Saturn was always the one car u could count on to break down..but a big hell yeah for ur Saturn that has been a good car for u..I'd keep it forever cause it's a oddity..maybe the only one of it's kind..the only problem free Saturn..lol.sorry just messing about with ya..keep it tween the lines my friend and full throttle all the way!
@@tashaarellano7680 Hey man you good in my book we are on the same page no worries. I agree with you to. I love my truck to glad you got a car theat going good for you :-) be safe safe out there Friend
I used one of the Commercially available engine oil cleaners, at the insistence of a relative. Next thing I was doing, was tearing into the Engine to replace the Valve Seals. If you do the recommended oil changes with a Synthetic or Hybrid Synthetic Oil, you should never need to flush the oil passages. This of course, is not having a leaking head, leaking antifreeze into the oil.
Hi, yes but that's the problem when you buy a second hand car, you don't know if previous owners did them right.
wow, the bottom of your car is clean as new, cant believe it is a 2002 car
There are two types of engine flush products, detergent Base and solven base. Solvent Base flush will damage your engine seals. Detergent Base is what used in high quality synthetic oil, just higher concentration and it will not damage your engine seals. However, it will clean up your engine.
Incorrect. Solvents meant for engine flushing do not damage seals. Detergent is in any regular oil, has nothing to do with being "high quality synthetic" or not. Detergent does not clean already accumulated gunk out of an engine very well at all. Its purpose is to trap the smaller molecules before they settle into gunk. it keeps an engine clean better than it cleans a dirty engine.
You are incorrect. Kerosine is recommended for Motorcycle chains aswell for cleaning because it won't attack the o or X rings in the chain.
Mitchell HürenKamp you are incorrect, kerosene is a dry fuel and will cause damage inside an engine and it will dry out seals causing damage. Automatic transmission fluid works so much better and is safer because it lubricates as it cleans.
Well, who's right goddamnit? We need to know.
I think frequent oil changes are a safer and better solution :)
After the video I have more questions than I have answers. How is that Saturn cleaner underneath than it is on top?
it will also wash out the rings and with an old engine, it will smoke and really burn oil.
Its the valve guide seals in that particular engine iv had 3 of those cars
This looks good but does the kerosine attack rubber sealed and gaskets......
Blow-by problem? I see a FRAM filter problem.
ran 2 gallons of diesel in my ls1 at idle until coolant temps hit 200f. checked oil filter no metal. I always use mobile 1 5-30. still running strong
You should do voiceover for documentaries. I feel like I'm watching the History channel
What's the torque spec on that oil plug, 90ft lbs?
Lmao hahahahaha U A ROOKIE
I use 1 bottle of MMO about 300miles before I do an engine oil change. And I do it at every oil change. Will that spoil the engine?
If you read this guys video description he is exactly right.
All that work and a Fram filter is going back in it?
Yeah Fram you might as well use a roll of toilet paper
I threw almost a full can of SuperTech Motor Teatment in my old 302 with old oil.
The blow by seemed to have greatly reduced and nearly no smoke from exhaust pipe.
Then I changed the oil. I used 1gal of diesel oil and two quart bottles of Oil Stabilizer. All SuperTech brand.
It now smokes from both ends worse than before the Motor Treatment was add.
On the bright side though. The low end rattle has nearly stopped now when the throttle is burped.
Yes, Fram filters are garbage. Seen engines destroyed by them myself. The element comes unglued in the can, plugging everything up completely. Oil has detergent in it, and a vehicle that has had it's oil changed properly every 3,000 miles will never need to be flushed, and should make it past 300,000 miles easily. Lucas is just a viscosity increaser, like STP. Better to just use higher viscosity oil instead. My 2006 Ford Crown Vic has recently passed the 400,000 mile mark (with regular 3,000 mile oil changes) and is still running fine. I started off at around 40,000 when I got the car with 5w30. At 150,000 I went to 10w30, and at 250,000 I went to 10w40. Never used any additives, or did any flushing. Engine does not use oil. What will eventually kill this engine is a broken cam chain, as it uses chain driven overhead cams. Engines should not have internal chains, especially ones that are not easily replaced. The timing chain on an old school small block Chevy was totally worn out at 100,000 miles. But it could be easily replaced BEFORE it broke or jumped teeth on the cam sprocket. Replacing the Ford chains requires an engine teardown.
That being a 2002 GM car, it has another serious problem. If it was neglected to the point where it needed flushing, then the cooling system is probably totally ruined by the Deathcool, Dexkill, or whatever you want to call that nasty brown gunk GM uses for coolant. I have torn down more than one GM engine and found the water jackets around the cylinders completely filled with this gooey, waxy brown stuff that was impossible to get out. The block was ruined.
gm uses pinkish and orange stuff Dexcool now it will work great if not mixed with anything else, has gel issues when not mixed properly. dont believe the auto stores when they say you can mix the coolants.
Dexcool, or Dexkill, or Deathcool is some VERY bad stuff. No other coolant used by any other car manufacturer has it's problems. It is an engine destroyer. I recently got a great deal on a 2013 Chevy Sonic. 51,000 miles, and already it had a pinhole leak in one of the plastic fittings, and a bad water pump. I replaced those, thoroughly drained and flushed the entire cooling system, and filled it with Prestone OAT coolant. It is approved for use in new Ford, GM, and Chrysler vehicles with aluminum engines, but with GM vehicles, you have to get all traces of the Dexkill out first. I believe that whatever GM puts in Dexkill that causes it to plug everything up may have been intended as some kind of stop leak, as it coagulates on contact with air. And there is no way to air proof a cooling system. The reservoir is open to the air whenever you remove the cap, and everytime the engine cools off, and sucks the coolant in the reservoir back into the engine, the cap is pulled open by vacuum to allow air into the reservoir to prevent vacuum from collapsing it.
the stuff thats in my envoy doesnt do that, it is pinkish though, I know this because i rebuilt the engine due to someone not changing oil. I just saved it and filtered it its clean and passes the freeze test to 40 below, what should i use instead of dexcool? I have heard of these liquids jelling up they did in my crysler. it plugged up the radiator, I had to buy a new radiator I could'nt get it all out of fins. I didnt trust it anymore so I put in conventional coolant it seems to work fine
that explains why vauxhall /gm cars here in the uk blow head gaskets at 150,000 miles.You can almost set your watch by em! by the way you have the same name as my father!
im curious if kerosene is aa oily as diesel.
i still cannot stop appreciating how clean that oil pan is.
Marijana Brezić Kerosene is like diesel, just more refined and burns cleaner. You can run a diesel engine on kerosene just fine.
@@logik316 really?. I didn't know that.
That's old school! I don't recommend doing it on old Fords. You'll discover a a plethora of new oil leaks. Yes, I'm speaking from experience. 😂
Old school you dont run motor just drain directly thru then let drip adding oil right behind changing again after couple hundred miles
But are the seals different now?
Does Expedition have a blow back problem ,to put Lucas too ?
After a kerosene flush, put in Marvel Mystery Oil ( I use 20%) for a thousand miles. Your engine
will be much cleaner. Only leave the kerosene in for a few minutes.
My main issue flushing old motors is it can loosen gunk in the motor and cause oil pressure problems.
Yrs ago my friend had a shop, I stopped by and was talking he had a engine partially torn down. He said a friend was on his way to Florida, we were in Michigan and the the engine quit. The guy did a motor flush and headed out. I walked over and was looking at it and it had some dime sized flat circles of sludge all stuck to the bottom of the oil pump sump. I called Fred over and showed him, we couldn't believe it....
It can also clog the pick up screen.
@@poppaluv yep that's the biggest problem.
I have done this with a different aproach, i first removed all the old oil, added cheap new oil, filter and a complete bottle of flush, this let me see if the color of this new oil change (turn darker) because it's removing some Sludge, otherwise with the old dark oil you Will not know. In my case because of my frequent oil changes, the new oil gets out pretty clean...
At 100,000 miles it is also very important to clean the PCV, the carter ventilation. The fumes and blowby go back to the engine through the intake system. This get's clogged up over time and causes underperformance and problems.
if by "underperformance", you really mean "less pollution", then you'd be correct. PCV's have a negative effect on performance, as you cannot burn the Carbon that is the basis of the fumes. its dead air being recycled back into the intake, purely to reduce air pollution
I have heard a good flush will increase the oil pressure if pick up tube screen is dirty
What does that kerosene do to the engine seals and the bearings? I'm guessing there's a reason why the manufacturers manuals suggest putting nothing in your engine except the recommended grade of oil.
HELP PLEASE. If rainwater goes into the engine, what is the best way to flush/cleanse the engine before it seizes and one has to replace the engine. THANKS TO YOU ALL
sir what happen if my oil engine accidentally put a gasoline instead of kerosene to flush out sludge in the engine,it wont start now..tnx in advance.
Hey I have an 2007 Toyota Camry Le that’s has an blown Head Gasket so I took the top off and see that the inside of the engine needs serious cleaning what do I do about that
When changed per manufactures recommended interval, modern engine oils and engine designs do not produce any “sludge”. How did you come to the conclusion kerosene is “safe”?
People used to use coal oil to desludge engines.
FYI: you can substitute lamp oil for kerosene.
You can even use diesel fuel too.
Some people use ATF to flush with.
No more than 25% by volume for the mix.
Might be a good idea to let it sit overnight in severe sludge issues.
If you have a lot of sludge, then you aren't changing your oil and filter often enough.
Or you need a proper tuneup/repair.
I see the author is using one of the WORST oil filters you can get.
Get a NAPA or WIX filter or better.