your video showed the most critical fact that is overlooked on this subject elswhere....that you can extract a broken bolt .and can continue with repair...now i will do this job myself [2008 cl63] thanks much
You may care to check out two RUclips videos .. Chris Sullivans “6.2L V8 E63 AMG SURGERY: Fixing All The Common M156 Issues” and 63 Motor Sports Inc “AMG Black Series Hydraulic Lifters”. Correct me if I am wrong but I think you and Chris had different ideas about the head bolt torque?
👍 Good instructions and learning . My ML 63 AMG runs already with 365300km without any problems un the engine except Head cover gaskets and some small oil leak on the gearbox 🤞
The camshafts are cast nodular iron hitting against 9310-grade steel valve lifter buckets. Standard M159 valve buckets are coated with a finish that resists wear better than the stand M156 bucket. That said, when I replaced the female headbolts on my 09’ C63 with reusable ARP studs, the cams and buckets were pristine. The key? Spend a few extra bucks on an oil & filter change every 6 months.
Hello I'm french and I watched your videos about the M156. I plan to attack this job for the cylinder head screws as well. Do you have any advice ? For tightening the screws, have you completed the 5 tightening steps screw by screw? or did you first replace the screws and then did the tightening course? I had thought of applying the first 2 tightening steps on each screw, and then applying the last 3 steps in the correct order when all the new screws are in place THANKS
You should have used loctite on the threads. I could be wrong but I believe gasket maker is not to be used in those areas and has acidic properties. Applying it to the shank does nothing as well.
Loctite use high temp if you do. Regular blue and red loctite will become viscous at higher temps (when engine is running) and looses its holding properties.
Dude, i agree with you "nothing goes as planned". I was replacing my VVT solenoid and it broke half way and got stuck on the engine cover, so after take the engine over off 2 bolts broke. 20 minute job turned into a 3 hour job. Now i have an engine cover with one less screw and, of course, its the bottom right hand so its leaking oil. i ordered a new gasket and a screw tapping set to move the screw the broke, so now i cant move my car for a few days. after i get it my mechanic will come and fix. I will not work on my car again. I'm good at alot of things, mechanic isnt one of them.
When you torqued the head bolts one at a time did you follow the 10nM, 50nM, and 3x 90 degree turns? I’m doing mine right now and just finishing up on one side. I’ve seen some comments saying that the torque specs assume you’re removing the head and Tightening all of the bolts at the same time going in order. They said something like the 50nM + 3x 90 degree turns may be overcompressing the cylinder head and or gasket given there is already pressure holding it all together. Someone said they’d only do 40nM + 270 degrees for the one at a time method. I had already torqued down 4 bolts by the time this question came to mind so I’m just sticking with the 50nM + 270 degrees. Hoping it doesn’t over compress the head or cause any issues. I used the RTV like you did and think it’s a good step to help seal up any potential spots where the head gasket integrity may be in question from over tightening (if it’s indeed an issue). I also figured if it was an issue, we’d have heard more warnings about it. My buddy thinks it wouldn’t be enough added stress to make a difference but in any case I’m curious what others think. Also, thought I’d share that my 2010 c63 head bolts looked pretty darn good (100k miles). No rust whatsoever, just a bit of coolant corroded / dried onto the head and lower threads of the bolt. I’ve also read others saying the head bolt issue is overblown and likely not needed. For me, it just made sense to do it given my mileage and having the cams out to replace the lifters so I did it anyway. Good luck to any others doing this!
@@eflinegarage great to here this, thank you for the response! I’m waiting on a set of road and race cams from 63 motorsports and then I’ll put everything back together. Cannot wait to start my baby up for the first time in over a year.
Thanks for a good video showing the steps and good job! You replaced each header bolt one at the time. Did you do all the torque steps in a row per bolt before next one?
There is a mark on the crank to show you 40 after TDC. hard to see but you'll see it. Everything is perfect and even took it to Sebring for a HPDE and beat the snot out of it with no issues.
Judging by the condition of the bolts, I'm not bothered to upgrade mine until 130,000 miles. I don't think those old bolts would have rusted through and caused a problem for a long time.
your video showed the most critical fact that is overlooked on this subject elswhere....that you can extract a broken bolt .and can continue with repair...now i will do this job myself [2008 cl63] thanks much
You may care to check out two RUclips videos .. Chris Sullivans “6.2L V8 E63 AMG SURGERY: Fixing All The Common M156 Issues” and 63 Motor Sports Inc “AMG Black Series Hydraulic Lifters”. Correct me if I am wrong but I think you and Chris had different ideas about the head bolt torque?
👍 Good instructions and learning . My ML 63 AMG runs already with 365300km without any problems un the engine except Head cover gaskets and some small oil leak on the gearbox 🤞
Stock head bolts and camshaft?
@MojeCzteryKolka yep
The camshafts are cast nodular iron hitting against 9310-grade steel valve lifter buckets. Standard M159 valve buckets are coated with a finish that resists wear better than the stand M156 bucket. That said, when I replaced the female headbolts on my 09’ C63 with reusable ARP studs, the cams and buckets were pristine. The key? Spend a few extra bucks on an oil & filter change every 6 months.
Hello
I'm french and I watched your videos about the M156.
I plan to attack this job for the cylinder head screws as well.
Do you have any advice ?
For tightening the screws, have you completed the 5 tightening steps screw by screw? or did you first replace the screws and then did the tightening course?
I had thought of applying the first 2 tightening steps on each screw, and then applying the last 3 steps in the correct order when all the new screws are in place
THANKS
You should have used loctite on the threads. I could be wrong but I believe gasket maker is not to be used in those areas and has acidic properties. Applying it to the shank does nothing as well.
Loctite use high temp if you do. Regular blue and red loctite will become viscous at higher temps (when engine is running) and looses its holding properties.
Dude, i agree with you "nothing goes as planned". I was replacing my VVT solenoid and it broke half way and got stuck on the engine cover, so after take the engine over off 2 bolts broke. 20 minute job turned into a 3 hour job. Now i have an engine cover with one less screw and, of course, its the bottom right hand so its leaking oil. i ordered a new gasket and a screw tapping set to move the screw the broke, so now i cant move my car for a few days. after i get it my mechanic will come and fix. I will not work on my car again. I'm good at alot of things, mechanic isnt one of them.
When you torqued the head bolts one at a time did you follow the 10nM, 50nM, and 3x 90 degree turns? I’m doing mine right now and just finishing up on one side. I’ve seen some comments saying that the torque specs assume you’re removing the head and Tightening all of the bolts at the same time going in order. They said something like the 50nM + 3x 90 degree turns may be overcompressing the cylinder head and or gasket given there is already pressure holding it all together. Someone said they’d only do 40nM + 270 degrees for the one at a time method. I had already torqued down 4 bolts by the time this question came to mind so I’m just sticking with the 50nM + 270 degrees. Hoping it doesn’t over compress the head or cause any issues. I used the RTV like you did and think it’s a good step to help seal up any potential spots where the head gasket integrity may be in question from over tightening (if it’s indeed an issue). I also figured if it was an issue, we’d have heard more warnings about it. My buddy thinks it wouldn’t be enough added stress to make a difference but in any case I’m curious what others think. Also, thought I’d share that my 2010 c63 head bolts looked pretty darn good (100k miles). No rust whatsoever, just a bit of coolant corroded / dried onto the head and lower threads of the bolt. I’ve also read others saying the head bolt issue is overblown and likely not needed. For me, it just made sense to do it given my mileage and having the cams out to replace the lifters so I did it anyway. Good luck to any others doing this!
Yes I did and I heard the same thing. I have not had any issues for thousands of hard miles now and have been racing it at Sebring
@@eflinegarage great to here this, thank you for the response! I’m waiting on a set of road and race cams from 63 motorsports and then I’ll put everything back together. Cannot wait to start my baby up for the first time in over a year.
@loumu7176 You may care to check out .. Chris Sullivans “6.2L V8 E63 AMG SURGERY: Fixing All The Common M156 Issues”
Thanks for a good video showing the steps and good job! You replaced each header bolt one at the time. Did you do all the torque steps in a row per bolt before next one?
For the header bolts I tried to but I legit could only get a 1/16 of a turn on some. Took forever and some I skipped until
I had more patients
Did you do an oil change right after?
Yes, absolutely. Highly recommend
Did you use OE bolts and buckets ?
Used the revised bolts so yes OEM of the new style and OEM tappets. The black series were way too expensive for me
How is this all holding up now? And I might just be a dummy but how did you know that you were at 40° after tdc ?
There is a mark on the crank to show you 40 after TDC. hard to see but you'll see it. Everything is perfect and even took it to Sebring for a HPDE and beat the snot out of it with no issues.
I want to put ARP head bolts on a Chevrolet 4.3 for a turbo and was wondering how'd this held up so far?
So far so good!
How many Kilometers have the M156 ?
90,000 Miles approx
Judging by the condition of the bolts, I'm not bothered to upgrade mine until 130,000 miles. I don't think those old bolts would have rusted through and caused a problem for a long time.