I've learned more about my passion from you in these 2 short videos, than I knew from 40 years of practice and mistakes. Any woodworker will benefit from your post. Thank you
What an absolutely awesome rundown on everything someone would need to know for the proper and safe operation of a band saw. As many people have pointed out many times, you're excellent at explaining the finer points of tools and their setup and use. I love your videos.
To quote my wife, “this is good stuff”! This is getting it down on the band saw. This is the most informative tutorial I have ever seen covering the band saw and I think this series is much needed in this industry for the hobby guy or gal and as for the apprentice too! I even learned several new things and I’m a retired cabinet maker!👍👍👍💖!
I like the concept of the bandsaw being a brute force instrument to save time and energy. Well done again. I always learn from your presentations because you are a teacher not just an exhibitionist like Rivermike said.
I picked up the 306 last year. Awesome machine, definitely not terrible to learn how to tune it up properly. Still wish I had this video available to me then. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Keep up the great work, Shawn!
Wow! truly an encyclopedia of band saw knowledge! And I intend to keep this video for future reference BUT, i think you went way beyond the what a true beginner needs in this "Beginners Guide to Band Saws". Simpler probably would have been better....BUT, as i already said, I will keep this for future reference. Thank you
Loved this! So straightforward and helpful. I am a twenty year woodworker and just got 7 stitches out of my thumb from my 14” bandsaw. I always looked at it as the safest machine in my shop but was re-sawing the thin wax edge off a bowl blank. At 1/2 inch from end, the blade jumped through and around the end and caught my thumb. Your video helped me investigate & understand why. Now I can set it up correctly and not be afraid to get back on it. Thanks so much!
I must admit that I was a little hesitant and skeptical viewing a video of this length. But I discovered the depth of the information presented, and I couldn't stop watching. It's an excellent initiation for new comers to the bandsaw. I have learned heaps from this video... the clarity and practicality of the discussion are incredibly enlightening. I'll now watch the other parts! This is my first time watching your video. Thank you! Great stuff!
I watched the Alex Snodgrass video as well - he's very very knowledgable and experienced but he's much harder to follow than your video. You have a real gift explaining this stuff. I just procured a very nice new grizzly band saw and this video REALLY helped me to get started on the right foot. Thanks! I would never have known about the idea that the blade should be centered near the kerf of the blade and not the center of the blade, but it makes a whole lot of sense. Your videos are SO HELPFUL, what a treasure!
Thanks again for another excellent presentation. This is timely for me as well since my wife gifted me with a 10" bandsaw for my birthday a couple of weeks ago. Mine is a WEN, and the appearance is very similar to the Rikon - and many other 10" saws. Major differences are the tension release control, the aluminum table on mine and the WEN dust collection port is designed to accept every common hose size. And the color, of course. I will be referring back to this video at least several times!
I have been receiving value from your channel for quite a while. I have a Ricon bandsaw and have been using it for several years. This content prompted me to support you on patreon because of the practical information i will surely use in the future. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this explanation of band saws, I pretty much never used my craftsman 10" because I thought it was terrible. Using your video as a guide to tune up the saw may bring it back into the rotation. Thanks again.
This series is a service to everyone trying to get into woodworking! Older bandsaws issue differ from the newer bandsaws, and here is how: 1) The Tensioning and Adjustment component from most bandsaws (70's-90's) were made from zinc chromium and were very brittle. As a result the design of these parts often gave out due to normal wear & tear. The replacement parts are a little beefier. 2) 14" JET and Delta bandsaws had a deck that was not attached very well, (misplaced) often being drilled into the frame very close to the lower guide bearing insert, and the tilt shift would hit them, it was common for these components to be in bad shape, often resulting in the owners redrilling a new hole for the attachment of the deck, or the lower guide bearing. 3) Lower base of the larger sized bandsaws was made of sheetmetal riveted together. Normally not an issue but for the fact that the pop rivets were not of good quality, either they were made of aluminum or they were poor quality metal that rusted. Either case, they weakened over time and now have become an issue. 4) Bands on the wheels. Most of the older (before 1990) bandsaws had rubber EPDM as rings. They wore out more quickly. The newer urethane rings do not. Typical for a urethane ring to last about 40 years or more with everyday use. These are the things I have gleaned over the 30 years or so of using them... So if you are just buying a new bandsaw, these are not relevant, but if you find an older bandsaw, though they still have issues, I would recommend them over today's newer construction. Often you can find one at an estate sale for cheap, and the cast iron frame makes them a really solid investment!
finally saw how the damn saw folded! thanks wortheffort! I envy you access to good tools at reasonable prices. in Europe they are as expensive as if they were made of gold! Greetings from Poland.
I think they're priced similar for comparable models it's just if a brand isn't already there you have to import it and... there are lots of brands outrageously priced here because they only have distributors over there.
My little Ryobi band saw drove me crazy trying to replace the blade until someone (youtuber?) showed me how to hold it on the wheels with spring clamps. Magic!
Yet another great video. I have a 40 year old Delta bandsaw I bought from a guy off of Facebook Marketplace last year. I can't say I've ever had that problem you mentioned about the table flexing in relationship to the blade. In fact, before I put it on wheels, I used to drag it around the shop by pulling on the table and that sucker didn't flex at all. It wouldn't even move out of adjustment.
I was considering this model of Rikon already. My only concern was that the website says it can only cut wood up to 5 inches thick. But looking at the video, the distance from the table to the blade guard looks more like 6 inches. I also like the fact it was a bench top size and weighed only about 75 pounds. I have a small workshop in my basement. Thanks Shawn, excellent video.
I've been revisiting various videos as a refresher for my relatively new woodworking skills. I agree with you that Alex Snodgrass is the man in the know about Band saws. I have a Dewalt DW876 which is rubbish but I got it cheap and didn't know better at the time. The cutting base is made of several aluminium plates so keeping that square with the blade is a challenge. Anyway, it took me a while to figure out why I couldn't fit the max width blade suggested by Dewalt as it would rub on the rear of the saw. Eventually the penny dropped and I realised that by following Snodgrass's advice, I was positioning the blade further back on the wheel. If I recall correctly, Snodgrass put a stop to the online melee discussing how to counter drift. I suspect that he also put an end to the "co-planer" conspiracy. Yes, you may receive a rogue saw, but the manufacturers actually commit time and money in the set up of their saws and the wheels are almost never co-planer. The co-planer thing was driven by someone suffering from drift that had to blame the tool and not their understanding. Keep up the sharing!
Really worthwhile video. I learned a lot. Will be rushing out to release the tension on my band saw blade as that was something I didn't know about. I know it's not on the agenda, but I hope you do a similar set of videos on the table saw. So many people have them and - it seems to me anyway - there is the greater potential for something to go badly wrong if they are used incorrectly. It would be great to have someone with your training and experience do a Beginners Guide to the Table Saw.
Captivating presentation. Great Stuff. I just treated myself to the same Rikon. I was learning lutherie over the holidays and using a cheapie Ryobi. I'm so excited about this new machine!
very good video for beginners and not so beginners, I agree with almost everything if not with everything. great job, I would add a advice as with any machine tools do not force anything let the tool do the job
Thanks so much!! I just got an old 3-Wheel-Bandsaw "Flottjet" from a School here in germany. No Manual, a maxxed-out-Blade, dust from Generations of students. Your Video give me the advice i need to try to bring this old Baby to life again and be a highlight in my "Workshop".
Very good vid. Appreciate the part re the tension and watching for the flutter of the blade. I’m sure this will make things go quicker for blade change outs.
Thank you for lesson. I just bought this exact saw but really had no idea how to properly operate it. Can’t wait for the next class. I really enjoy and learn a lot from your teachings. Thanks.
Jesus. Wow. Gob smacked. I've watched Mr Snodgrass and got a lot out of his workshop in Seattle years ago. But this video. I don't know, but after watching this I understood everything you've said. This has made SUCH a difference for me. I've been saving for my own bandsaw for a while, covid hasn't made things any easier. I've been aiming for a 14" saw because that's what everyone says I should get. However, it sure looks like this little 10" Rikon is the cats meow.
All depends upon what you want to do with it. There have been 14" on market since the 40's so you can generally pick one up pretty cheap used but it's all the "how much effort do you want to put in" arguement.
this complete series is just amazingly well built and taught, I enjoy every moment. I am totally in line with you using rather the bandsaw and handtools than table saw as being a "one man workshop". I usually cut free hands on the bandsaw, but find it extremly hard on resawing material at 1/8 thick without a fence. Any trick or advice how to improve there? thanks a lot !
I've found that one of the magswitch type fences from Carter has led to me using my band saw dramatically more often. Plus, I can attach homemade sacrificial fences if I need to. You are able to square the fence to the blade rather than either side of the table. This way, I don't have to worry about the table wiggling vertically, I just line up the fence to the blade before I start cutting.
Band saw size determines the stock size it will handle and the size is based on two dimensions. First is the distance between the inner edge of the blade and the throat of the saw. A 14" band saw has a 14" measurement between the two. This measurement may range from 10" up to 24". Some manufacturers may go by the wheel size, which will make the measurement smaller. The second dimension is the depth of cut - the distance between the table and the underside of the blade guide/guard.
I bought my 14" bandsaw instead of a sawstop table saw and bought one with the trunnions. It ended up a little less $$ than the table saw and my table doesn't flex. I think you should look at a newer band saw. With a new blade, I get a cut as good as the tablesaw. I've been doing most of what you've shown except using the flutter to determine tension. Thanks!
Thanks for this very detailed course. I have bookmarked this video and I will keep referring to it as I get to know and use my Wen 3962, I am still wondering If I should get the Rikon 3061 for $125 more but without the stand, the Rikon has extra features that are useful for a weekend woodworker like myself but I wonder if it is worth the extra $$. What do you think?
Thanks so much for all of your educational videos. As a beginning Woodworkers I have learned a lot from them for the past year, but your Prerequisite series has taken it up a notch. I have learned basic details that fill in the blanks in my knowledge. I started out by learning to woodturn on a Rikon lathe last year and just bought a Rikon 10" band saw to help me try different things this year. As a wise man once said, it is always worth the effort to Learn, Create, and Share with others. Keep up the good work!
Thanks!! Enjoying watching all the videos!!!! Don't have room for bendsaw even for the 10". I saw some smaller 8", 9" but i don't know if i can benefit from them...
I also lost the table pin on my Rikon saw (14” 10-325). I’ve been halfheartedly searching for a replacement. If you find a source please publish the source. Wow. Thanks for speaking to the common man, and not the professional. I’ve been using my saw for years and have usually been frustrated with it and knew it had to be my setup, not the saw. After hearing the one tip on not looking directly at the blade/wood contact point, looking farther back to guide the cut it’s so much better. Also looking at the back of the blade and how it’s exiting the cut made a huge difference. Common sense, but I’ve put it aside for so long because the cut needs to be made now, and the ‘maybe I’ll learn how to do it right later’ time never came, until now. Setting the blade by some distance of deflection with a certain amount of sideways pressure just didn’t work for me. Guides at wood height, all the way up... never made a difference. Setting by flutter really helped dial it in. Really, if you find a source for those Rikon table pins please let me know.
thanks i learned a lot i have a startritie 403 i think record power make it i am so frustrated with the fence i was thinking of maybe getting the kreg fence have you any thoughts on such an upgrade
I thought my bandsaw was just a pos, turns out i havent been too diligent about careing for it maybe my bandsaw thinks im a pos lol. tomorrow morning i have some tuneing to do, thanks for making this vid.
I have the 14" Rikon. One of my biggest issues is that no matter how much alignment I do, my blade was creeping out as I cut. My model has a built in tension indicator that I have never been impressed with. Now I am wondering if it is so off that my blade tension has just been too low. I may just have to tighten it up and see what happens. I was always worried that I would pop the blade or burn up the bearings on the wheels. Now I should investigate deeper.
Any side could be the right side depending on which direction I approach it from. Looking down from above, and assuming the neck is on the south side, and the blade on the north, which direction are you talking about?
I just purchased an old Craftsman 12" band saw that I am restoring. I am going to build a tool stand for it as well. Do yo have any thoughts on how high the table should be for comfort and ergonomics. The saw came on a stand but it seems way too high for me and I don't like it at all. Thanks for the video. I have been debating on a band saw for years but finally decided to get one I can learn on before investing in a much larger unit.
Superb content as usual!! I do have 1 question though. I did everything you suggested and when I try ripping wood it is not even close to the same size from start to finish. It looks more like a triangle and my 2 ft boards vary up to 1/2" from front to back measuring the top and the bottom. Any suggestions?
The thing across the front of the table is the guide for left-right movement of the fence, and to lock it in position. it has a measuring scale on top but I always ignore those on any tool - much better to set up dimensions with other parts of the project, setup gauge blocks, or your own rulers. At one point in the video he completely removed the guide in order to remove & replace the blade.
i have got the rikon 10-305 and it is a good saw,,,,but the sliding blade guide on the front of saw is a nightmare,,,,i hate it,,,it would so so much easier to have a door that would open up to install a new blade,,for that reason,,im looking to purchase a saw that does have it
Really do not like my band saw, 9" ryobi. I had to file some metal to make a 3.5" tall rip cut. I guess it might not be so bad after watching the video. Most of my frustrations was inexperience and trying to push the wood to fast.
Bandsaw measurement isthe horizontal between the blade and upright. The diameter of the wheels is NOT a part of advertised size. the other measurement is the vertical measure ment between table and highhest setting of the blade guide.
My 14” bandsaw has a 14” wheel but 12.xx” clearance with post. This 10” bandsaw has a 10” wheel but a 8.xx” clearance with post. Measure yours.... I know craftsman used to advert a 9” bandsaw with a huge clearance with post. But those used 3 wheels.
@@wortheffort I stand corrected! You are right! I did more research and found this article: www.woodworkersjournal.com/band-saws-sized-way/ Feel free to reference it when replying to others who will say the same thing I said.
just wanted to let you know, i tried to join your channel and for some reason it doesnt let me. maybe its bug or maybe its my system. just thought id tell you
I’m sorry I have to call BS on the blade bending on the top wheel. WHY YOU ASK. Because the wheel is a softer material therefore before the blade BENDS it will already be off the wheel and when it comes back around the material on the wheel will absorb the blade back into the molded form on the wheel.
Ok, here is one: you are cutting along, and it seems your blade is not digging into the wood as it should, then out of the blue the blade snaps forward and also wanders off to cut in a slightly different direction. The Problem? Several things. Tension is low. Guides are out of sync with the configuration of the blade alignment on the wheels, and you now have a dull blade due to this one little incident. It only takes one time around the wheels for a blade to dull itself on the guides due to this, and this leads to unsafe blade, and a badly needed realignment. This is one of the basic problems that many owners never see as a "big" problem until after many many years of experience, and lots of blade replacements. The saw will still cut, but until you have seen the difference perfect alignment makes on a blades life, you won't believe it.
I've learned more about my passion from you in these 2 short videos, than I knew from 40 years of practice and mistakes. Any woodworker will benefit from your post. Thank you
Such incrdible information I've been craving before I buy a band saw. Thank you Shawn.
oh man, thank you so much for this really IN DEPTH view into the bandsaw! You're my hero
What an absolutely awesome rundown on everything someone would need to know for the proper and safe operation of a band saw. As many people have pointed out many times, you're excellent at explaining the finer points of tools and their setup and use. I love your videos.
To quote my wife, “this is good stuff”! This is getting it down on the band saw. This is the most informative tutorial I have ever seen covering the band saw and I think this series is much needed in this industry for the hobby guy or gal and as for the apprentice too! I even learned several new things and I’m a retired cabinet maker!👍👍👍💖!
Thanks
I like the concept of the bandsaw being a brute force instrument to save time and energy. Well done again. I always learn from your presentations because you are a teacher not just an exhibitionist like Rivermike said.
Thanks
I picked up the 306 last year. Awesome machine, definitely not terrible to learn how to tune it up properly. Still wish I had this video available to me then. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Keep up the great work, Shawn!
Thanks
I always learn multiple things from all your videos even though I have been doing woodworking for many years. Great classes. Thanks!
Thanks
I thought I knew enough about bandsaws...thank you for your exceptional detailed tutorial.
Wow! truly an encyclopedia of band saw knowledge! And I intend to keep this video for future reference BUT, i think you went way beyond the what a true beginner needs in this "Beginners Guide to Band Saws". Simpler probably would have been better....BUT, as i already said, I will keep this for future reference. Thank you
Loved this! So straightforward and helpful. I am a twenty year woodworker and just got 7 stitches out of my thumb from my 14” bandsaw. I always looked at it as the safest machine in my shop but was re-sawing the thin wax edge off a bowl blank. At 1/2 inch from end, the blade jumped through and around the end and caught my thumb. Your video helped me investigate & understand why. Now I can set it up correctly and not be afraid to get back on it. Thanks so much!
Ouch, but that is one attribute to the BS. Stitches and not reconstruction or stubs.
I must admit that I was a little hesitant and skeptical viewing a video of this length. But I discovered the depth of the information presented, and I couldn't stop watching. It's an excellent initiation for new comers to the bandsaw. I have learned heaps from this video... the clarity and practicality of the discussion are incredibly enlightening. I'll now watch the other parts! This is my first time watching your video. Thank you! Great stuff!
I watched the Alex Snodgrass video as well - he's very very knowledgable and experienced but he's much harder to follow than your video. You have a real gift explaining this stuff. I just procured a very nice new grizzly band saw and this video REALLY helped me to get started on the right foot. Thanks! I would never have known about the idea that the blade should be centered near the kerf of the blade and not the center of the blade, but it makes a whole lot of sense.
Your videos are SO HELPFUL, what a treasure!
Thanks again for another excellent presentation. This is timely for me as well since my wife gifted me with a 10" bandsaw for my birthday a couple of weeks ago. Mine is a WEN, and the appearance is very similar to the Rikon - and many other 10" saws. Major differences are the tension release control, the aluminum table on mine and the WEN dust collection port is designed to accept every common hose size. And the color, of course. I will be referring back to this video at least several times!
Thanks
I have been receiving value from your channel for quite a while. I have a Ricon bandsaw and have been using it for several years. This content prompted me to support you on patreon because of the practical information i will surely use in the future. Thank you!
Thanks, much appreciated.
Oh my gosh thank you! My band saw questions, and there were many, have been answered!!! Love your videos!
Thank you so much for this explanation of band saws, I pretty much never used my craftsman 10" because I thought it was terrible. Using your video as a guide to tune up the saw may bring it back into the rotation. Thanks again.
Appreciate the detailed content and thought that you’ve put into the dialog. Terrific video “series.”
Thanks
Thank you very much for a complete primer to the bandsaw. Excellent work mate, getting rid of the mystique.
Thanks
This series is a service to everyone trying to get into woodworking!
Older bandsaws issue differ from the newer bandsaws, and here is how:
1) The Tensioning and Adjustment component from most bandsaws (70's-90's) were made from zinc chromium and were very brittle. As a result the design of these parts often gave out due to normal wear & tear. The replacement parts are a little beefier.
2) 14" JET and Delta bandsaws had a deck that was not attached very well, (misplaced) often being drilled into the frame very close to the lower guide bearing insert, and the tilt shift would hit them, it was common for these components to be in bad shape, often resulting in the owners redrilling a new hole for the attachment of the deck, or the lower guide bearing.
3) Lower base of the larger sized bandsaws was made of sheetmetal riveted together. Normally not an issue but for the fact that the pop rivets were not of good quality, either they were made of aluminum or they were poor quality metal that rusted. Either case, they weakened over time and now have become an issue.
4) Bands on the wheels. Most of the older (before 1990) bandsaws had rubber EPDM as rings. They wore out more quickly. The newer urethane rings do not. Typical for a urethane ring to last about 40 years or more with everyday use.
These are the things I have gleaned over the 30 years or so of using them... So if you are just buying a new bandsaw, these are not relevant, but if you find an older bandsaw, though they still have issues, I would recommend them over today's newer construction. Often you can find one at an estate sale for cheap, and the cast iron frame makes them a really solid investment!
finally saw how the damn saw folded! thanks
wortheffort! I envy you access to good tools at reasonable prices. in Europe they are as expensive as if they were made of gold! Greetings from Poland.
I think they're priced similar for comparable models it's just if a brand isn't already there you have to import it and... there are lots of brands outrageously priced here because they only have distributors over there.
@@wortheffort Thank you for your reply and best regards.
My little Ryobi band saw drove me crazy trying to replace the blade until someone (youtuber?) showed me how to hold it on the wheels with spring clamps. Magic!
Yet another great video. I have a 40 year old Delta bandsaw I bought from a guy off of Facebook Marketplace last year. I can't say I've ever had that problem you mentioned about the table flexing in relationship to the blade. In fact, before I put it on wheels, I used to drag it around the shop by pulling on the table and that sucker didn't flex at all. It wouldn't even move out of adjustment.
Ya got a good one.
Not used a bandsaw since I was 14, at school, 30 years ago.... Going to buy one in the new year because of you :D
I was considering this model of Rikon already. My only concern was that the website says it can only cut wood up to 5 inches thick. But looking at the video, the distance from the table to the blade guard looks more like 6 inches. I also like the fact it was a bench top size and weighed only about 75 pounds. I have a small workshop in my basement. Thanks Shawn, excellent video.
Will cover that in Part III.
I've been revisiting various videos as a refresher for my relatively new woodworking skills. I agree with you that Alex Snodgrass is the man in the know about Band saws. I have a Dewalt DW876 which is rubbish but I got it cheap and didn't know better at the time. The cutting base is made of several aluminium plates so keeping that square with the blade is a challenge. Anyway, it took me a while to figure out why I couldn't fit the max width blade suggested by Dewalt as it would rub on the rear of the saw. Eventually the penny dropped and I realised that by following Snodgrass's advice, I was positioning the blade further back on the wheel. If I recall correctly, Snodgrass put a stop to the online melee discussing how to counter drift. I suspect that he also put an end to the "co-planer" conspiracy. Yes, you may receive a rogue saw, but the manufacturers actually commit time and money in the set up of their saws and the wheels are almost never co-planer. The co-planer thing was driven by someone suffering from drift that had to blame the tool and not their understanding. Keep up the sharing!
Really worthwhile video. I learned a lot. Will be rushing out to release the tension on my band saw blade as that was something I didn't know about. I know it's not on the agenda, but I hope you do a similar set of videos on the table saw. So many people have them and - it seems to me anyway - there is the greater potential for something to go badly wrong if they are used incorrectly. It would be great to have someone with your training and experience do a Beginners Guide to the Table Saw.
Thanks. Table saw isn't in this series but maybe in a year or so.
@@wortheffort Great :)
Captivating presentation. Great Stuff. I just treated myself to the same Rikon. I was learning lutherie over the holidays and using a cheapie Ryobi. I'm so excited about this new machine!
very good video for beginners and not so beginners, I agree with almost everything if not with everything. great job, I would add a advice as with any machine tools do not force anything let the tool do the job
I searched 2 years for a used bandsaw. Finally came across a Jet 18" bandsaw with dust collector for $200! Deal of the century!
That's what I'm talking about!
good one.
Thanks so much!! I just got an old 3-Wheel-Bandsaw "Flottjet" from a School here in germany. No Manual, a maxxed-out-Blade, dust from Generations of students. Your Video give me the advice i need to try to bring this old Baby to life again and be a highlight in my "Workshop".
Three wheelers are a different beast in terms of set up. Might look for someone with experience with them.
Thanks for the tutorial, you explain things very well ,appreciate your guidance
Good job fella,found the tutorial easy to follow.
Very good vid. Appreciate the part re the tension and watching for the flutter of the blade. I’m sure this will make things go quicker for blade change outs.
Thanks
Thank you for lesson. I just bought this exact saw but really had no idea how to properly operate it. Can’t wait for the next class. I really enjoy and learn a lot from your teachings. Thanks.
Thanks
Good stuff. I just bought a Rikon 14" band saw and I will use your videos as my user manual.
Thanks for this great information - always worth my time to watch
Thanks
Jesus. Wow. Gob smacked. I've watched Mr Snodgrass and got a lot out of his workshop in Seattle years ago. But this video. I don't know, but after watching this I understood everything you've said. This has made SUCH a difference for me. I've been saving for my own bandsaw for a while, covid hasn't made things any easier. I've been aiming for a 14" saw because that's what everyone says I should get. However, it sure looks like this little 10" Rikon is the cats meow.
All depends upon what you want to do with it. There have been 14" on market since the 40's so you can generally pick one up pretty cheap used but it's all the "how much effort do you want to put in" arguement.
Fantastic! Inherited an old 14" Delta. Helps tremendously!
this complete series is just amazingly well built and taught, I enjoy every moment. I am totally in line with you using rather the bandsaw and handtools than table saw as being a "one man workshop". I usually cut free hands on the bandsaw, but find it extremly hard on resawing material at 1/8 thick without a fence. Any trick or advice how to improve there? thanks a lot !
I use a fence to resaw.
I've found that one of the magswitch type fences from Carter has led to me using my band saw dramatically more often. Plus, I can attach homemade sacrificial fences if I need to. You are able to square the fence to the blade rather than either side of the table. This way, I don't have to worry about the table wiggling vertically, I just line up the fence to the blade before I start cutting.
I didn't have much luck with my mag fence. After a few months the magnets seemed to weaken.
Band saw size determines the stock size it will handle and the size is based on two dimensions. First is the distance between the inner edge of the blade and the throat of the saw. A 14" band saw has a 14" measurement between the two. This measurement may range from 10" up to 24". Some manufacturers may go by the wheel size, which will make the measurement smaller. The second dimension is the depth of cut - the distance between the table and the underside of the blade guide/guard.
Jody Rohde you aren’t thinking outside the box (table). Wait for next episode.
great video, learned a lot. Thanks
Oooh yessss.... this is my band saw! Thanks!
Good info on band saw, good job bro.
Hi Shawn, great video and thanks for the series. In the UK band saws seem to be sized by the throat width rather than the size of the flywheel.
Measure the throat then measure the wheel. Which one's related to the classification.
great video Shawn. i just got my first bandsaw so the timing was perfect!
Thanks
I bought my 14" bandsaw instead of a sawstop table saw and bought one with the trunnions. It ended up a little less $$ than the table saw and my table doesn't flex. I think you should look at a newer band saw. With a new blade, I get a cut as good as the tablesaw. I've been doing most of what you've shown except using the flutter to determine tension. Thanks!
In a small hobby shop I think that was a wise decision.
great video as usual .. you are a good teacher , thanks a lot.
Thanks
Great series keep up the good work
Thanks
Great tutorial, shopping for saw now!
This was highly instructive, thanks a lot and greetings from Germany! Jan
Thanks
Thanks so much for your videos....i can see an improvement by using your bandsaw techniques.... purchased a shirt, cant wait to receive it
So much useful information - thank you
Thanks
Thanks for this very detailed course. I have bookmarked this video and I will keep referring to it as I get to know and use my Wen 3962, I am still wondering If I should get the Rikon 3061 for $125 more but without the stand, the Rikon has extra features that are useful for a weekend woodworker like myself but I wonder if it is worth the extra $$. What do you think?
as most of your videos, excellent ... Thanks
I learned a lot in this video.. thanks!
My Grizzly bandsaw has guides like you were talking about where rotating them changes the distance to the blade.
Definitely made sense to release this as a stand alone. Great video as always! And....I've just found your shirts available in the UK! :-)
Ya, have TeeSpring via RUclips. My other one which can print pixels not just vectors still does the ones that are my drawings and it's still US only.
Are your shirts available in Germany too? Can't find any in your shop… :o(
Thanks so much for all of your educational videos. As a beginning Woodworkers I have learned a lot from them for the past year, but your Prerequisite series has taken it up a notch. I have learned basic details that fill in the blanks in my knowledge. I started out by learning to woodturn on a Rikon lathe last year and just bought a Rikon 10" band saw to help me try different things this year. As a wise man once said, it is always worth the effort to Learn, Create, and Share with others. Keep up the good work!
Thanks
Thanks!! Enjoying watching all the videos!!!! Don't have room for bendsaw even for the 10". I saw some smaller 8", 9" but i don't know if i can benefit from them...
Thanks
I also lost the table pin on my Rikon saw (14” 10-325). I’ve been halfheartedly searching for a replacement. If you find a source please publish the source.
Wow. Thanks for speaking to the common man, and not the professional. I’ve been using my saw for years and have usually been frustrated with it and knew it had to be my setup, not the saw. After hearing the one tip on not looking directly at the blade/wood contact point, looking farther back to guide the cut it’s so much better. Also looking at the back of the blade and how it’s exiting the cut made a huge difference. Common sense, but I’ve put it aside for so long because the cut needs to be made now, and the ‘maybe I’ll learn how to do it right later’ time never came, until now.
Setting the blade by some distance of deflection with a certain amount of sideways pressure just didn’t work for me. Guides at wood height, all the way up... never made a difference. Setting by flutter really helped dial it in.
Really, if you find a source for those Rikon table pins please let me know.
Thanks, I'd check Rickon as they have a parts department. I'd lost one on the Jet not Rikon.
This was so helpful. Thank you!
Thanks
Thank you so much
thanks i learned a lot i have a startritie 403 i think record power make it i am so frustrated with the fence i was thinking of maybe getting the kreg fence have you any thoughts on such an upgrade
I agree with others - amazing video and I just subscribed!!
Awesome!!! I think you sold me on this saw!!! Is it good for bandsaw boxes?
I thought my bandsaw was just a pos, turns out i havent been too diligent about careing for it maybe my bandsaw thinks im a pos lol. tomorrow morning i have some tuneing to do, thanks for making this vid.
I have the 14" Rikon. One of my biggest issues is that no matter how much alignment I do, my blade was creeping out as I cut. My model has a built in tension indicator that I have never been impressed with. Now I am wondering if it is so off that my blade tension has just been too low. I may just have to tighten it up and see what happens. I was always worried that I would pop the blade or burn up the bearings on the wheels. Now I should investigate deeper.
I never pay attention to those gauges.
Reminder do not stand on right side. 30 yr. teacher I only saw a blade break and exit,
3 times glad nobody was there. Great demo.
Any side could be the right side depending on which direction I approach it from. Looking down from above, and assuming the neck is on the south side, and the blade on the north, which direction are you talking about?
@@WDCallahan 5
I just purchased an old Craftsman 12" band saw that I am restoring. I am going to build a tool stand for it as well. Do yo have any thoughts on how high the table should be for comfort and ergonomics. The saw came on a stand but it seems way too high for me and I don't like it at all. Thanks for the video. I have been debating on a band saw for years but finally decided to get one I can learn on before investing in a much larger unit.
if you make it as high as your workbench then that can become an outfeed table.
Has anyone ever mentioned your resemblance to Sam Kinison? Especially when you rant? Great instruction, I have learned a lot!
I have a question... Why not build a support for the band saw table to reduce the flex in it from pressure? Just curious.
Superb content as usual!! I do have 1 question though. I did everything you suggested and when I try ripping wood it is not even close to the same size from start to finish. It looks more like a triangle and my 2 ft boards vary up to 1/2" from front to back measuring the top and the bottom. Any suggestions?
When you get off your line stop, reset, then continue. Why keep sawing if you go off line?
17:00 if you put gullet in the center, you won't have to adjust left and right stops when changing the blade.
Thanks!
thanks
What are your thoughts about wire band saw blades ?
What was your Texas source for bandsaw blades - made to length and reasonably priced - compared to big box stores? Thanks in advance.
weatherford
3rd time watching to help reset my saw
Also look up Alex Snodgrass.
if the table flexes , why don't you just cut a few 4 by 2s to support the end of the table , underneath. ?
First comment! Love your videos. They really help. Keep it up!!
Thanks
What do you think about UK made Record Power BS250? I am thinking of buying that one.
Dunno anything about it. Record isn't sold here.
What 14 inch band saw do you have?
Hope you cover this. What does the fence on the front do? Is that just storage?
haven't a clue what you're referencing.
Never mind I see what it is. Kind of a phone poor setup in my mind.
@@dwsnsgp still, no clue what you are talking about. storage and phone?
The thing across the front of the table is the guide for left-right movement of the fence, and to lock it in position. it has a measuring scale on top but I always ignore those on any tool - much better to set up dimensions with other parts of the project, setup gauge blocks, or your own rulers. At one point in the video he completely removed the guide in order to remove & replace the blade.
i have got the rikon 10-305 and it is a good saw,,,,but the sliding blade guide on the front of saw is a nightmare,,,,i hate it,,,it would so so much easier to have a door that would open up to install a new blade,,for that reason,,im looking to purchase a saw that does have it
I have a Wen 10” bandsaw and have had nothing but problems with it. Wish I had saved up to buy a better one.
These small ones hold value pretty good. Can always upgrade in the future.
Could you bills a support leg, say out of wood, to put under that corner?
They'll do it. they cut the first one too short and didn't have a back up.
Loving these videos. But you should change the name of tge series to: Bandsaw, Bandsaw, Bandsaw and Knife
It's only the second "class" and that was it's focus. Other classes will focus on other things.
Really do not like my band saw, 9" ryobi. I had to file some metal to make a 3.5" tall rip cut. I guess it might not be so bad after watching the video. Most of my frustrations was inexperience and trying to push the wood to fast.
blunt force instrument that gets the job done.
6:15 for metal cutting you need to go slower, not faster. Slow high force to slice metal.
Check the model number. Should be 10-3061. Wearing my new Wortheffort t-shirt.
fixed
I run my bandsawss Everytime I am in the shop
Bandsaw measurement isthe horizontal between the blade and upright. The diameter of the wheels is NOT a part of advertised size. the other measurement is the vertical measure ment between table and highhest setting of the blade guide.
My 14” bandsaw has a 14” wheel but 12.xx” clearance with post. This 10” bandsaw has a 10” wheel but a 8.xx” clearance with post. Measure yours.... I know craftsman used to advert a 9” bandsaw with a huge clearance with post. But those used 3 wheels.
@@wortheffort I stand corrected! You are right! I did more research and found this article: www.woodworkersjournal.com/band-saws-sized-way/
Feel free to reference it when replying to others who will say the same thing I said.
just wanted to let you know, i tried to join your channel and for some reason it doesnt let me. maybe its bug or maybe its my system. just thought id tell you
Dunno why couldn't
"I'm gonna turn this knob that raises it down..."😅
I feel safer turning the wheel with a push stick. This is more true on my old cutoff metal cutting saw.
🔨🔨🔨
I build my own fence for resawing.
most people do or use pin
Never mind I got the answer later in the presentation. Was just saying it looked like a thing that only worked halfway.
Dennis Clark did you ask a question?
I’m sorry I have to call BS on the blade bending on the top wheel. WHY YOU ASK. Because the wheel is a softer material therefore before the blade BENDS it will already be off the wheel and when it comes back around the material on the wheel will absorb the blade back into the molded form on the wheel.
Uh, bandsaw blades bend. Haven’t a clue what your talking about.
@@wortheffort I’m talking about the blade bending vs. it not bending because of the soft rubber wheel giving before the blade has time to bend
@@billcoley8520 what your describing makes no sense. The blade of a bandsaw bend and stretch. The wheels don’t.
I just noticed 2 down votes and I will never understand stupid people.
Ok, here is one: you are cutting along, and it seems your blade is not digging into the wood as it should, then out of the blue the blade snaps forward and also wanders off to cut in a slightly different direction. The Problem? Several things. Tension is low. Guides are out of sync with the configuration of the blade alignment on the wheels, and you now have a dull blade due to this one little incident. It only takes one time around the wheels for a blade to dull itself on the guides due to this, and this leads to unsafe blade, and a badly needed realignment. This is one of the basic problems that many owners never see as a "big" problem until after many many years of experience, and lots of blade replacements. The saw will still cut, but until you have seen the difference perfect alignment makes on a blades life, you won't believe it.