Interesting. I read that you have to lower the differential but seeing is believing. I started removing the L. rear axle and stopped because I couldn't lift the control arm with one hand and push the axle with the other but after seeing you I'm going to get someone to help me. Mine is a 2004 CR-V and it looks the same as yours. Thanks a million.
my 2003 Honda element rear passenger side CV axel boot is ripped so I'm just going to replace both, I'm in the middle of putting in new rear shocks, upper control arms, sway bar linkage and just noticed the rip so right now my whole rear and is open with no obstructions underneath, I'm thinking about replace the whole filler pipe which is rusted pretty bad and wire brushing all the rust sections and repainting them with rust inhibitor (why not), ive already replace the front shocks, brake calipers front and rear, sway bar bushings and i have the inner and outer tie rods for both sides , ill also be draining the transmission fluid and rear differential fluid (the car has 215,000 miles on it and is 20 years old but all this will make it a brand new car, i have and oil pan leak that i'll tackle next spring with a new oil pan and finish off by replacing the passenger side cv axel............................i love my element i have a nice garage setup with everything i need including a 60 gal air compressor and nematic jack as well as all air tools (i seriously couldn't do all this without any of this stuff. i recently bought one of these and wasn't to impressed with it for removing rusted bolts , i gave it another try and it does work awesome, heating a rusted nut or bolt up to 600 deg in less than 3 min for easy removable www.amazon.com/dp/B0851C6Q22?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Just tried to remove a torn left rear cv 2.5 hrs later got stuck in removing the shaft from the hub, tried a hub puller, hammer with punch and socket , induction heater, didnt even budge😢
I’m two weeks into getting the hub off the shaft a real learning experience. Seems I’m going to have to saw off the camber bolt then get the whole lot out. That means the hub knuckle and axle shaft all in one piece then get that to garage to somehow press out the axle from hub which I’ve bent, nightmare.
I have a 97 also have you had any rear alignment problems mine just eats tires up bought aftermarket camber until arms you ever heard anything like that before
@@maxjanasik well I also did the same going to put the aftermarket adjusters on there for the toe and Camber that should correct my problem from what I hear from Honda
It’s not an easy job rn I’m stuck with a immobile car because my axle was so bad it broke off and part of it is stuck in the wheel bearing and I can’t take it out anyone have any advice
Interesting. I read that you have to lower the differential but seeing is believing. I started removing the L. rear axle and stopped because I couldn't lift the control arm with one hand and push the axle with the other but after seeing you I'm going to get someone to help me. Mine is a 2004 CR-V and it looks the same as yours. Thanks a million.
I have done this a few times and lowering the differential never xrossed my mind, though i saw a video where it was done.
Very compact video how it's done.
If you have trouble connecting the bolt to lower control arm, just loose the upper ball joint. Thanks.
Very helpful. Thank you for getting right to the point and being concise. And a big thank you for specifying the model year right in the video title!!
Very helpful video got my cv axles replaced on my own for my first time doing it thank to this! Thank you!
Great video. I can’t believe book time on this is 2.2 hours, easy money for me! As long as that control arm bolt comes out 😂😂😂
You are a good man for this video!! Cheers from Manitoba Canada!!!
Thank you for this video!!
Thank you. It looked like an easy job.
my 2003 Honda element rear passenger side CV axel boot is ripped so I'm just going to replace both, I'm in the middle of putting in new rear shocks, upper control arms, sway bar linkage and just noticed the rip so right now my whole rear and is open with no obstructions underneath, I'm thinking about replace the whole filler pipe which is rusted pretty bad and wire brushing all the rust sections and repainting them with rust inhibitor (why not), ive already replace the front shocks, brake calipers front and rear, sway bar bushings and i have the inner and outer tie rods for both sides , ill also be draining the transmission fluid and rear differential fluid (the car has 215,000 miles on it and is 20 years old but all this will make it a brand new car, i have and oil pan leak that i'll tackle next spring with a new oil pan and finish off by replacing the passenger side cv axel............................i love my element
i have a nice garage setup with everything i need including a 60 gal air compressor and nematic jack as well as all air tools (i seriously couldn't do all this without any of this stuff.
i recently bought one of these and wasn't to impressed with it for removing rusted bolts , i gave it another try and it does work awesome, heating a rusted nut or bolt up to 600 deg in less than 3 min for easy removable
www.amazon.com/dp/B0851C6Q22?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
make sure your lock ring goes with the opening facing down
Thank you
Looking to remove rear differential can I use the inner part of CV axle as axle thus meaning getting it using spline to put nut back on
Everyone says it just pops out with a screwdriver but maaaan mine doesn't wanna budge and I feel I'm gonna break something LOL
Do you have the outer end removed that goes through the wheel and you’re just struggling to get the inner cv axle released from the rear differential?
@@maxjanasik yes, that is my problem. Cv axle broke, So just what's left in the rear dif won't budge.
Just tried to remove a torn left rear cv 2.5 hrs later got stuck in removing the shaft from the hub, tried a hub puller, hammer with punch and socket , induction heater, didnt even budge😢
I’m two weeks into getting the hub off the shaft a real learning experience. Seems I’m going to have to saw off the camber bolt then get the whole lot out. That means the hub knuckle and axle shaft all in one piece then get that to garage to somehow press out the axle from hub which I’ve bent, nightmare.
I have a 97 also have you had any rear alignment problems mine just eats tires up bought aftermarket camber until arms you ever heard anything like that before
No but I did a bunch of suspension work and got a 4 wheel alignment
@@maxjanasik well I also did the same going to put the aftermarket adjusters on there for the toe and Camber that should correct my problem from what I hear from Honda
Hi. Why would the axles not stay in? Mine are loosened and make noises
Maybe they are worn out?
It’s not an easy job rn I’m stuck with a immobile car because my axle was so bad it broke off and part of it is stuck in the wheel bearing and I can’t take it out anyone have any advice
Did you remove the nut that holds it on? After that maybe try tapping it to free up
Does the inner part only go in one way?
I first hand pressed it in so the splines would be aligned and then gently tapped it from the outside.