Love how you guys emphasize the learning along the way. Thats been my favorite part of my submersion into OC and XOC pc hardware. I got a 980ti KP for 99$ and took a #17 place on HWBOT and #2 on air for 980TIs. With just air. Not even water. I can link it if anyone wants to see.
I don't understand why most go for an "in-series" single loop for the two GPU's, as the 2nd GPU in the loop will always be warmer than the first. I know it's more tubing, pumps and rads, but keeping each GPU in their own loop would make it much easier to keep them at the same temp while cooling them.
Do you think there is a thermal material that is like you soaking the heat and nvidia has had the heat sensor like about temperatures? The thermal material that is soaking the heat so it is not blown into the casing to hide the actual heat the gpu is putting out then slowly bleeds it out doing idle? Like how car radiators keep running the fans for a bit after you turn off the car to bleed the heat out a bit faster before turning off.
"Sir, they shot a nerf dart at us" "Well I guess there's only one possible response..." *Turns keys simultaneously and punches the big red button* "Let's go NUCLEAR!" *Maniacal laughter*
@@jonjohnson2844 Well, it also gradually makes it harder so that more people can tag along the way. Going straight to LN2 would also mean that people like Paul wouldn't been able to join.
This series is what I look forward to most in new gpu releases. I'm not about to spend 1500 dollars on a new gpu so might as well watch some dudes mod them
@@yaldabaoth2 this video helps people like me who only plan to slap water blocks on a 3080 with a modded vbios, understand the limits without ln2 or chilled mods. Understanding how much headroom Nvidia left on these cards is important when looking for stable 24/7 overclocks.
Yeah, Paul said in his last video that he "thinks" he might be done since he doesn't really have means to go liquid nitrogen in his home. However, this shunt mod may give him some extra confidence.
Flux also cleans the surfaces of both dirt/greese and already existing oxides. These materials will float to the surface of the hot flux, away from the surfaces being soldered.
RE: what flux is for, the purpose is to help break down oxides when they're heated, and helping the solder wick by breaking surface tension. Absolutely essential when soldering any metal that tarnishes easily like copper or brass
Flux only helps breaking down oxides, when it is acidic. Residue of an acidic flux might cause damage and should therefore be avoided when working on microelectronics. Also oxidation is more of a problem with the solder itself and not the copper contacts. True, these oxidize as well but not as quickly. Edit: Just found out about Thermal decomposition and after further research: I was wrong, non acidic flux should indeed break down oxides when they're heated. My apologies
@@Meatsweats_o_O some solder types have a little flux added to them, but a small flux pen or bottle will go a long way in helping your solder flow much more nicely, and help you get strong shiny looking solder joints!
@@Meatsweats_o_O Not sure if this is ironic, but if not: Depends on what you are soldering. Normal solder usually contains a small amount of flux. But yes, when working with parts that don't have much tolerance considering fluctuations in power use of flux is advised
@@Meatsweats_o_O absolutely start using flux. Even on things you don't think need flux, use all the flux. On small spots where you don't want it to get to dirty around your job you can apply it with a toothpick if you insist on not using a ton, but even then you want to coat everything in a bit of it. When doing board repairs or service on older board though just lather that shit on. I've literally had components that had failed due to corrosion repair themselves after coating in flux and hitting it with a heat gun till all the oxides broke down. I even use flux for desoldering, it helps the heat transfer to the joint from the iron better, and keeps those same oxides from forming on the components
Electrical engineer here: yes. Tinning is way more important than drowning the thing in flux. Flux is really only needed with fine pitch surface mount packaging to help with surface tension so it doesn’t bridge like crazy and to hold stuff in place. Most solder is probably flux core anyways which is good enough.
When soldering pin headers, you could use what's called 'blue tack' instead of hot melt glue. Not sure though what blue tack is called in the US. Flux cleans the metals so that solder adhears to the joints properly! Loving the RIP series!!!
@@someusername121 In America I've seen a lot more solder than isn't flux cored. Over here almost everything is, a d you don't really need seperate flux. To be very clear, if you want a good joint, you need flux. You just don't need any extra if your solder is flux cored.
I always like the whole #RIPJAY/PAUL/GN concept. It seems to bring the whole community together, with friendly competition. We all learn a lot from what you guys are doing, and you make it fun at the same time. And it's good you guys have a lot of ice on hand for when you burn each other!
A trick I have learned from doing head gaskets on racing engines for even tightening. Start in the middle and clockwise or counterclockwise work your way to the outer fasteners.
Just wanted to share my opinions about Paul's #RIP videos. I know he's new to the competition but his videos are actually quite interesting! Definitely worth a watch if you missed out on them.
Actually impressive scores and performance especially considering he has not staff to help run his channel, and has a daughter that he places priority on. Paul did great!
Thanks you guys! I'm glad the timing worked out for me and it's been a really fun competition to be a part of. I might have to get my setup going again... 🤔
@@paulshardware Yes go for it! It's refreshing to see someone less hardcore giving it a try. Steve and Jay are all work that it's nice to watch a normal family man doing it for once. Hope you stick around!
those blocks look hella good! You can tell that they are made in small production lines, made and designed by engineers... absolute overkill ! I love that!
I’m an electronic technician with experience and soldering is one of my best skills. I worked for various companies which both produce apparatus and repair it. Your soldering isn’t really bad (I recall Jayz and immediately get sick). I have one tip - it would be easier if u used two irons to heat both side of the resistor. Hot-air might also be helpful, but I would suggest two irons. It would help more than the board heater u use. Also - the flux. Basically it helps because it cleans the soldering surface from any dirt and more importantly - oxides, that leads and solder are sensitive to. That’s why they get so shiny thanks to flux.
Optimus are brilliant. I normally find "Made in the USA" means higher prices for similar or lower quality but with Optimus you can just somehow feel the pride they take in their products when you hold them
I'm probably really rusty at this so forgive me if I'm misremembering. The power you can draw, in watts, through a resistor is a function of voltage, of the source, squared over resistance, of the line, so P=I^2/R So pre-shunt mod P=12^2 Volts / .5 Ohms = 288 Watts And to calculate the new resistance when adding one resistor in parallel is (R1 x R2)/(R1 + R2) So post-shunt mod the new resistance is (.5 x .8)/(.5 + .8) = .3077 Ohms And if plugged back in to the Power equation => 12^2 Volts / .3077 Ohms = 468 Watts Please if I'm wrong fellow internet person, I'd love to know what I messed up.
@@bachmed00 The piggybacked resistors Steve is using are of a similar package to SMT aluminum/tantalum capacitors, but they're resistors, to reduce the overall resistance. It was derbauer who was swapping capacitors on a 30*0.
@@concinnus Yeah i meant that Steve is using resistors not capacitors. But theres millions of different components. Sometimes i load up the machine with more than a 100 capacitors only. Usually 04-02
EVGA just released a beta bios driver to push the 3080 to a 450w power target, in case anyone is interested , I am unsure if it's both cards, or just the 3080. We have been wondering what water blocks to get for the 3080, Nice to see a USA made product that we can look forward to in the near future.
@@timno9804 I know lol it's crazy. Seen 3080s be pushed upwards of 400w but 450w is just insane. Makes me curious of the max wattage someone is going to pull from a 3090 or Big Navi in the future. Gunna need its own PSU for sure😂
Why not have @Gamers Nexus merge with the swords video & water cool the swords in the video for more damage & a more consistent weapon edge. Plus the sword grip would remain cool in the wielders hand(s) over time.
They are hella expensive but they're literally the best of the best and have no competition in terms of cooling potential. Even the newer EK CPU blocks struggle against the Optimus blocks, and end up cheaper too. Their GPU blocks are ultra expensive though but also the best of the best. Got a CPU block from them to cool my dual-setup PBO/OC (Dark Hero board) 5950x. Thing pulls up to 250 watts full tilt.
For soldering jobs, I'd highly recommend getting a soldering iron that supports interchangeable tips, and getting a few slimmer tips for soldering smaller components - makes it a hell of a lot easier, especially since you don't NEED the higher thermal transfer rate of a thick tip. Just my 5c :)
Dear GN , have you try using a vacuum to bleed the air out of the system? , a hand pump should be plenty to get a drop in pressure at the clear cylinder and "encourage" the air to come up.
At 3 minutes 'short' is the wrong word. Short inplies you are bypassing the resistor, but in reality you're actually creating a new resistor via 2 resistors.
Friendly competition is always fun to watch while also being informative. I have the Optimus AMD Foundation Block and the performance is fantastic. The very thin CNC fins make a difference. I'm going to purchase the gpu block when available.
Those water-blocks are really nice. I've always liked the "Thicc 'n' Chonky" appearance of big air-cooled GPU's and now that I'm finally starting a hard-line water-cooled build for my primary system I was kind of conflicted about whether I wanted to loose that aesthetic. Those Optimus blocks look almost as beefy as the air-coolers and I'll certainly be getting one. I just wish that they had perpendicular ports....might have to take it to work.
3/4OD, 1/2 ID. or more specifically, 19.5mmx12.5mm EK ZMT rubber tubing. it is NOT generic garden/maintenance hose tubing at all since it uses a completely different production method and wont brake down under UV.
@@572089 absolutely, it's not a garden hose, I just wanted to point out the size of it! I'm sure it's made out of some sort of different rubber compound, but having UV protection is overkill for it unless you will put your PC under direct sunlight all day long like a garden hose 😂
not always. you can buy special UV LEDs that make certain coolants glow. looks sick, but can break down some plastics and rubbers. even generic LEDs let off a suprising ammount of UV.
I have their Intel V2 block. It's a great block and wanted this FTW3 block but didn't even know they had one until it sold out. So idk if I'm going to wait considering the price is $300+. Idk if the performance justifies the price.
It sounds like Steve actually watched a few rossmann videos as practical guidance and invested in proper tools while jay sent it with a 10$ iron he filed the tip coating off before using. I have witnessed Steve drop into rossmann streams before.
well, aquacomputer and watercool didn't release theirs yet, EK also only shipped a few models afair. So let's wait a month or two for propper comparisons between the big ones :)
in terms of performance most water blocks are within spitting distance of each other; it really comes down to build quality and other features such as the MEM cooling and such. anyone who says X waterblock is so much better than Y waterblock most likely is just a fanboy, or working with incomplete or incorrect data. sure there are waterblocks that are significantly WORSE than the average, but its rare that you see something able to shoot above the 5% varriance you'll see between EK, Bykski, Bitspower, BarrowCH, AC, and the likes. the only player that really consistantly tops the Pack is HEATKILLER, but their blocks are ungodly expensive and... kinda ugly.
@@shaneeslick yea, because it costs a lot of cash to ship a chunk of metal to literally the other side of the planet. wtf did you expect? if you live in aus, buy from Barrow or Bykski.
My guess is that blue gunk that flowed into the reservoir was probably what made getting it going in the first place difficult. Very interesting video. It was super neat getting to watch the surface mounting. I am a little surprised no one has tried a waterfall technique onto and through the radiator from the ice water reservoir.
It's great to see you working with Optimus for GPU blocks! Also, maybe the heat soak you are seeing is in the back plates? Possibly attach a thermocouple to the back of one and watch temps during a run to see if that's where you are getting those extended cool down times.
Your soldering isn't actually bad. Your main issue is a lack of confidence, you keep applying heat when the solder has flowed, and as the joint dries (lack of flux) you're trying to shape the solder. Solder flows, the point of flux is to remove impurities and to assist the joint in flowing. The trick is to set your work up before hand, and add enough solder and flux so that the joint flows between the two points you want to join. The key is to add flux, then add heat, then add solder, and keep the heat on for a few seconds afterwards. If it's in the right place you do not need to move your iron, unless you're removing components.
Flux is used to: -lower the melting point of the solder -decrease the surface tension of the molten metal -remove and prevent oxidation layer on top of the molten metal that prevents it from wetting the copper or solder joints. -produce smoke while you solder that targets your eyes. -spread and smooth the temperature on the board.
Flux's main effect is to trap impurities and lift to the surface so that the actual weld or solder is completely clean. A clean join is a strong join and a strong join is a happy join.
Flux makes it so that molten solder has better "wetting" action. When molten solder is exposed to air, it builds up an oxide layer on the outside, which prevents it from wetting the surface of whatever you intend to solder. This can be perceived as the solder being "difficult" to work with or not sticking, as well as solidifying into shapes other than a nice bead (such as pulling away your iron and the liquid solder solidifying into a peak or tower). Flux is an acidic compound that will dissolve away the oxide layer, as well as prevent new oxide being created.
From someone who has worked in the electronic manufacturing business for over 15 yrs. I can assure u for the soldering u are trying to do u don’t need the board preheated. It’s probably doing more harm than good depending on the type of flux in the solder roll u are probably burning it off before it haze a chance to react. The flux is a cleaning agent, each time u heat cycle the solder joint with ur iron ur creating a cold solder joint that’s why they look dull. I would recommend Turing ur iron temp up a lil and doing away with the board preheat.
You would benefit greatly by using some ceramic tweezers. I found them best for applying tiny SMD components. They don't seem to draw all the heat away from the solder joint like metal tweezers do.
My first try method is just masking tape to hold down large components when I solder. For an SMD, even just a toothpick over the top of the device and held down by tape works well. Leaves both hands free for the solder and the iron.
@@keithmyers2170 For large components, I just use my fingers to hold them in place until I can tack solder it. The smaller ones, I just use the tweezers or anything that's not really affecting the thermal threshold of the solder.
@@yahweh1x543 The majority of all my PCB board repair was through hole. So bending the legs of the part on the other side of the solder pad pretty much held stuff in place for soldering. When PCB's started transitioning to SMB construction, tape started to be used a lot more.
That Optimus stuff looks great. Just checked out their website - their nickel process looks really interesting, but it does also look like you'd need to buy exclusively Optimus stuff to take advantage of it. Could be worth it for the peace of mind that you're not going to get the plating coming off, though. Contender for my next build for sure.
I love these battle videos. It reminds me of pre-gaming computer times when we'd have to do absurd things in the name of frames. Your soldering makes me feel way better about my own technique haha @7:45 Flux helps the solder flow into place. It doesn't like to flow through air, only sticks to bare metal, and loves heat, so it's prone to sticking to your iron instead of what you're working on. The flux gives the solder something to flow through until it meets the destination metal, where it bonds, cools, and sticks. When in doubt, flux it out.
You know i do solder, and was about to explain the purpose of flux, but google had a great explanation already: In soldering of metals, flux serves a threefold purpose: it removes any oxidized metal from the surfaces to be soldered, seals out air thus preventing further oxidation, and by facilitating amalgamation improves wetting characteristics of the liquid solder.
chicago puttin it down. ive lived here my whole life and never knew about Optimus machining. apparently "Optimus's founding company machined parts for the Lunar Roving Vehicle (LVR) electric motor drive train." Interesting. Thanks for the info, i will be supporting them when i move to an open loop. SUPPORT LOCAL!
Flux prevents oxidation and impurities from getting into the joint. An oxidized layer interferes with the connection, weakens it both mechanically and electrically. It's the same reasons welders use shielding gas and/or coated welding rods.
Rep GN via the store: store.gamersnexus.net/
Watch our recent RTX 3080 TUF review: ruclips.net/video/7iGIiFfUwLs/видео.html
Watch Paul's videos here: ruclips.net/user/paulshardware
and Jay: ruclips.net/user/jayztwocents
Slacker!
Love how you guys emphasize the learning along the way. Thats been my favorite part of my submersion into OC and XOC pc hardware. I got a 980ti KP for 99$ and took a #17 place on HWBOT and #2 on air for 980TIs. With just air. Not even water.
I can link it if anyone wants to see.
I don't understand why most go for an "in-series" single loop for the two GPU's, as the 2nd GPU in the loop will always be warmer than the first. I know it's more tubing, pumps and rads, but keeping each GPU in their own loop would make it much easier to keep them at the same temp while cooling them.
@@BeardedHardware What's going on Stepongzi? How's dad life treating you?
Do you think there is a thermal material that is like you soaking the heat and nvidia has had the heat sensor like about temperatures? The thermal material that is soaking the heat so it is not blown into the casing to hide the actual heat the gpu is putting out then slowly bleeds it out doing idle? Like how car radiators keep running the fans for a bit after you turn off the car to bleed the heat out a bit faster before turning off.
The fact there’s been a more gradual ramp up in the tactics used makes this much more enjoyable to watch, rather than LN2 from the beginning.
I think i remember either Jay or steve saying that they wouldnt go straight to LN2 and actually takeit slow.
"Sir, they shot a nerf dart at us"
"Well I guess there's only one possible response..."
*Turns keys simultaneously and punches the big red button*
"Let's go NUCLEAR!" *Maniacal laughter*
@@Bulkynemesis4534 well yes because they can squeeze out more videos and make more money.
Leaves you hanging for more! Nice work GN
@@jonjohnson2844 Well, it also gradually makes it harder so that more people can tag along the way. Going straight to LN2 would also mean that people like Paul wouldn't been able to join.
if anyone wasn't convinced that competition is better for consumers, I present to you: the rip series
This series is what I look forward to most in new gpu releases. I'm not about to spend 1500 dollars on a new gpu so might as well watch some dudes mod them
and then linus joined with rtx 3090 but with only one and broke the wrong record lol
I'm not sure what benefit there could be to the general customer from this but as a viewer, I enjoy it very much.
@@yaldabaoth2 this video helps people like me who only plan to slap water blocks on a 3080 with a modded vbios, understand the limits without ln2 or chilled mods. Understanding how much headroom Nvidia left on these cards is important when looking for stable 24/7 overclocks.
I... am not sure how this is going to trickle down to consumers in ANY WAY. But it is entertaining.
Well done Steve, that's a monster score on just water! Great video too, and good to know I'm not the only one wondering what vbios Jay is using 😁
We're waiting Paul! 😁😁😁
Don't let us down Paul !! :-P
I feel like Paul is like a underdog. So i want to see him do well. :)
@@paulomagtunao4584 I think Paul is done
Yeah, Paul said in his last video that he "thinks" he might be done since he doesn't really have means to go liquid nitrogen in his home. However, this shunt mod may give him some extra confidence.
Flux helps the solder run (lower surface tension), and protects it from oxidizing.
Flux also cleans the surfaces of both dirt/greese and already existing oxides. These materials will float to the surface of the hot flux, away from the surfaces being soldered.
And when used with the correct capacitor, can bend space and time
@@keeperofthegood Just do What Voultar and Louis Rossmann do, drown everything in flux. Mo' Flux mo' betta.
@@redaffix7320 You mean "The proper amount of flux".
“More flux equals less problems, less flux equals more problems.” Louis Rossmann
Im waiting for Louis Rossmans critical analysis of your soldering skills
The bigger the gob, the better the job.
he will just say more flux.
Also some desolder wick and it will look factory.:)
Well the main objections were sorted: Used plenty of flux and satisfactory amount of HEAT THE BOARD :D
I burnt myself soldering once, too...just the most quick, minute little touch was enough to leave a burn that lasted weeks.
NOT ENOUGH FLUX
RE: what flux is for, the purpose is to help break down oxides when they're heated, and helping the solder wick by breaking surface tension. Absolutely essential when soldering any metal that tarnishes easily like copper or brass
Flux only helps breaking down oxides, when it is acidic. Residue of an acidic flux might cause damage and should therefore be avoided when working on microelectronics. Also oxidation is more of a problem with the solder itself and not the copper contacts. True, these oxidize as well but not as quickly.
Edit: Just found out about Thermal decomposition and after further research: I was wrong, non acidic flux should indeed break down oxides when they're heated. My apologies
i've never used flux....I should start using flux cause holy jesus i might as well just JB weld shit together.
@@Meatsweats_o_O some solder types have a little flux added to them, but a small flux pen or bottle will go a long way in helping your solder flow much more nicely, and help you get strong shiny looking solder joints!
@@Meatsweats_o_O Not sure if this is ironic, but if not: Depends on what you are soldering. Normal solder usually contains a small amount of flux. But yes, when working with parts that don't have much tolerance considering fluctuations in power use of flux is advised
@@Meatsweats_o_O absolutely start using flux. Even on things you don't think need flux, use all the flux. On small spots where you don't want it to get to dirty around your job you can apply it with a toothpick if you insist on not using a ton, but even then you want to coat everything in a bit of it. When doing board repairs or service on older board though just lather that shit on. I've literally had components that had failed due to corrosion repair themselves after coating in flux and hitting it with a heat gun till all the oxides broke down. I even use flux for desoldering, it helps the heat transfer to the joint from the iron better, and keeps those same oxides from forming on the components
"Lion King and the Alien in the water"
The absolute best time stamp I've ever read
Yes.. and what was that blue goo 😳
@derty MI QWERTY -looks like dye that didn't mix with the liquid properly and soidified into a goo- it's an alien
One thing is for sure Steve, your soldering can NEVER be as bad as Jayz "hot glue soldering" his 2080ti 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Steve is way better than me too, Due to a head injury causing nerve problems I shake like someone with Parkinsons 😬 which is not good for soldering
You mean better than the murderer? 🤣🤣🤣
We need a rossmann reacts 😂
What video was this???
@@erkkiboy exactly what I was thinking mate lol
Meanwhile, Kingpin:
"Puny mortals"
I mean the guys are closing in and they're not even on LN2 yet! I predict a 500 point delta by the end
lol that was epic XDXD
Kingpin got the whole EVGA lab to himself and a brilliant engineer by his side
Just wait until his EVGA card comes out and he can use the highest binned chips.
@@MasterOfInfinity tim had to move on, i forget the exact why.
If you tin the pads of the shunts before placing them they'd be much easier to install.
Electrical engineer here: yes. Tinning is way more important than drowning the thing in flux. Flux is really only needed with fine pitch surface mount packaging to help with surface tension so it doesn’t bridge like crazy and to hold stuff in place. Most solder is probably flux core anyways which is good enough.
flux isnt NEEDED but it is like playing mario 64 and playing mario 64 with levitate with L cheats/hacks
When soldering pin headers, you could use what's called 'blue tack' instead of hot melt glue. Not sure though what blue tack is called in the US. Flux cleans the metals so that solder adhears to the joints properly! Loving the RIP series!!!
@@someusername121 In America I've seen a lot more solder than isn't flux cored. Over here almost everything is, a d you don't really need seperate flux.
To be very clear, if you want a good joint, you need flux. You just don't need any extra if your solder is flux cored.
you could probably achieve better results hot gluing the shunts jayztwocents style
I always like the whole #RIPJAY/PAUL/GN concept. It seems to bring the whole community together, with friendly competition. We all learn a lot from what you guys are doing, and you make it fun at the same time. And it's good you guys have a lot of ice on hand for when you burn each other!
A trick I have learned from doing head gaskets on racing engines for even tightening. Start in the middle and clockwise or counterclockwise work your way to the outer fasteners.
Just wanted to share my opinions about Paul's #RIP videos. I know he's new to the competition but his videos are actually quite interesting! Definitely worth a watch if you missed out on them.
Actually impressive scores and performance especially considering he has not staff to help run his channel, and has a daughter that he places priority on. Paul did great!
Thanks you guys! I'm glad the timing worked out for me and it's been a really fun competition to be a part of. I might have to get my setup going again... 🤔
@@paulshardware Yes go for it! It's refreshing to see someone less hardcore giving it a try. Steve and Jay are all work that it's nice to watch a normal family man doing it for once. Hope you stick around!
those blocks look hella good! You can tell that they are made in small production lines, made and designed by engineers... absolute overkill !
I love that!
I’m an electronic technician with experience and soldering is one of my best skills. I worked for various companies which both produce apparatus and repair it.
Your soldering isn’t really bad (I recall Jayz and immediately get sick). I have one tip - it would be easier if u used two irons to heat both side of the resistor. Hot-air might also be helpful, but I would suggest two irons. It would help more than the board heater u use.
Also - the flux. Basically it helps because it cleans the soldering surface from any dirt and more importantly - oxides, that leads and solder are sensitive to. That’s why they get so shiny thanks to flux.
Optimus are brilliant. I normally find "Made in the USA" means higher prices for similar or lower quality but with Optimus you can just somehow feel the pride they take in their products when you hold them
I'm probably really rusty at this so forgive me if I'm misremembering.
The power you can draw, in watts, through a resistor is a function of voltage, of the source, squared over resistance, of the line, so P=I^2/R
So pre-shunt mod P=12^2 Volts / .5 Ohms = 288 Watts
And to calculate the new resistance when adding one resistor in parallel is (R1 x R2)/(R1 + R2)
So post-shunt mod the new resistance is (.5 x .8)/(.5 + .8) = .3077 Ohms
And if plugged back in to the Power equation => 12^2 Volts / .3077 Ohms = 468 Watts
Please if I'm wrong fellow internet person, I'd love to know what I messed up.
9:00 Alright sounds good. 288 is 61% of 468.
When Steve shows up with straight hair, you know its been a looooong day!
Everybody gangsta until Tech Jesus pulls out the capacitors
They're resistors.
Capacitors are usually squares/blocks on PCBs. I know because i work as a SMT operator
@@bachmed00 The piggybacked resistors Steve is using are of a similar package to SMT aluminum/tantalum capacitors, but they're resistors, to reduce the overall resistance. It was derbauer who was swapping capacitors on a 30*0.
@@concinnus Yeah i meant that Steve is using resistors not capacitors. But theres millions of different components. Sometimes i load up the machine with more than a 100 capacitors only. Usually 04-02
EVGA just released a beta bios driver to push the 3080 to a 450w power target, in case anyone is interested , I am unsure if it's both cards, or just the 3080. We have been wondering what water blocks to get for the 3080, Nice to see a USA made product that we can look forward to in the near future.
450w Jesus Christ lmao
@@timno9804 I know lol it's crazy. Seen 3080s be pushed upwards of 400w but 450w is just insane. Makes me curious of the max wattage someone is going to pull from a 3090 or Big Navi in the future. Gunna need its own PSU for sure😂
@@PabzRoz 1,000 to 1,500 watts PSUs don't seem so ridiculous anymore.
@@PabzRoz it's not even enough, I am hitting 450w in port royal at +115 core and +500 memory. I don't have great silicon though
My PSU is 450w and it powers the whole computer
2:12 last time Jay got into hardware modding he drilled a hole through a motherboard...Risky business, lol
hahaha that one just killed me, i wouldnt believe if i didnt saw it myself :D
Love how candid and honest you are. You play with an open hand. It's awesome!
I've had an Optimus CPU block for about a year now, they make fantastic products.
I was about to watch a video about swords. Then I saw this... the swords can wait
Why not have @Gamers Nexus merge with the swords video & water cool the swords in the video for more damage & a more consistent weapon edge. Plus the sword grip would remain cool in the wielders hand(s) over time.
The swords video was a bit of a letdown to be honest. Best thing was dropping Bruce
on the 700 series you could just short the shunt with solder and it would show max 20% power, of course nvidia had to "fix" this...
Haha, yeah, now it will go into 2D clocks if you do that!
Holy shit the Optimus waterblock looks so nice
You should check out the there cpu blocks to there amazing what I want for my next build when working again 😁 They use to engineer things for nasa👍
@Tinkering With Tech and no RGB nonsense
@Tinkering With Tech I think they ship world wide worth a look for sure.
They are hella expensive but they're literally the best of the best and have no competition in terms of cooling potential. Even the newer EK CPU blocks struggle against the Optimus blocks, and end up cheaper too. Their GPU blocks are ultra expensive though but also the best of the best. Got a CPU block from them to cool my dual-setup PBO/OC (Dark Hero board) 5950x. Thing pulls up to 250 watts full tilt.
For soldering jobs, I'd highly recommend getting a soldering iron that supports interchangeable tips, and getting a few slimmer tips for soldering smaller components - makes it a hell of a lot easier, especially since you don't NEED the higher thermal transfer rate of a thick tip. Just my 5c :)
Yeah, that tip was like using a Big Chief crayon to draw a fine work of art.
The big tip is beneficial here, considering the large resistor its not a terrible choice. His hakko can swap tips yes (T12/T15 style).
I almost died of anxiety watching you tip that open reservoir over the 3090s...
I thought it was masterful trolling 🤣
pretty sure it was behind, and a masterful perspective troll
I was ok with it. He's not Linus.
I love these rip challenges these days. It really promotes every channel. Great for the community!
10:29 i was half expecting a joke clip where he just slaps the pad onto a card (still in the packaging) ,gives a thumbs up and walks away
Flux removes oxidation and helps the solder flow. Its traditionally an acid compound.
Someone should get Louis Rossman in on this soldering action
nah, let him stay in his beloved apple world :P
@@albertwesker4266 Lol he is trying to end the apple world the mad man
@@albertwesker4266 he's literally anti apple at this point lmao what
@@592Johno dont you people know a word sarcasm 😵
Those optimus blocks are absolutely beautiful.
GN is soldering a rtx 3090 meanwhile I'm sweating bullets taking my new gt 710 out of its box...
gonna get some killer fps in media player tho
don't knock the gt 710 it's a solid display adaptor. i was using one with a intel pentium. it was at least better than the onboard graphics.
Me replacing a battery in a 5 year old phone
not funny
OMG YES... me installing me GTX 1080 ...
-Gloves
-Mask
-Both arms grounded
-Case grounded to mass
I can imagine, me screwing my whole thermal pad
You'll have those visualizers running at a solid 60 FPS. Bars and Waves never looked so good.
Dear GN , have you try using a vacuum to bleed the air out of the system? , a hand pump should be plenty to get a drop in pressure at the clear cylinder and "encourage" the air to come up.
28:00 Don't worry, it's just a bit of Protomolecule.
The expanse vibes are real .
I love this series. Friendly competitions are always very entertaining especially as they ramp up.
7:52 ah "this Rossman guy" : 'the bigger the flux, the bigger the job'
I kid you not that's exactly what I thought when he mentioned louis might have a better video on flux 😁😂😂
At 3 minutes 'short' is the wrong word. Short inplies you are bypassing the resistor, but in reality you're actually creating a new resistor via 2 resistors.
Yeah, thanks, normally we short the shunts (literally) with just liquid metal. This was a piggyback mod. My mistake.
Not to be pedantic, but a 5miliOhm is practically a short.
1 / (1/0.005 + 1/0.008) = 0.0031 or 3.1 milliohms of equivalent resistance if you were to do 1 resistor. It would make soldering easier in the future.
@@ftn5546 Shunting the shunt
Friendly competition is always fun to watch while also being informative. I have the Optimus AMD Foundation Block and the performance is fantastic. The very thin CNC fins make a difference. I'm going to purchase the gpu block when available.
Don't discount the much larger finstack surface area compared to competitors either. Not just the superfine fins as the advantage.
By far the most awesome GPU waterblock I have ever seen! Want it👍😀
I've got church in the morning but gotta watch Tech Jesus first
Same
@ bruh
I learn so much about how these cards work by watching these OC videos.
"this man is a sadistic murderer pt.2"?
Nah... Unlike Jay, Steve did solder the resistors. Maybe not the prettiest solders but they looked ok.
I don't think the last viewable soldering connected to the underlying component?
I came just to find out! Jay soldering round two? If you can call it that....
HEAT THE BOARD
Those water-blocks are really nice. I've always liked the "Thicc 'n' Chonky" appearance of big air-cooled GPU's and now that I'm finally starting a hard-line water-cooled build for my primary system I was kind of conflicted about whether I wanted to loose that aesthetic. Those Optimus blocks look almost as beefy as the air-coolers and I'll certainly be getting one. I just wish that they had perpendicular ports....might have to take it to work.
I like to think that Bearded hardware is just an extremely tall dwarf
I'm sorry for your loss. I never knew Paul or Jay, but I'm sure they were great.
Those waterblocks look badass. I see you overtaking Jay fast.
I like those water-blocks, clean simple but robust and seem to work well considering the score
You and jay's videos are really helping keep me sane while awaiting 3080 stock.
Those blocks are bloody beautiful. they are so on my radar now.
Wow, those are like 3/4" hoses on the water blocks?!? Almost like a garden hose flow for a graphics card 😁
3/4OD, 1/2 ID. or more specifically, 19.5mmx12.5mm
EK ZMT rubber tubing. it is NOT generic garden/maintenance hose tubing at all since it uses a completely different production method and wont brake down under UV.
@@572089 absolutely, it's not a garden hose, I just wanted to point out the size of it! I'm sure it's made out of some sort of different rubber compound, but having UV protection is overkill for it unless you will put your PC under direct sunlight all day long like a garden hose 😂
not always. you can buy special UV LEDs that make certain coolants glow. looks sick, but can break down some plastics and rubbers. even generic LEDs let off a suprising ammount of UV.
@@572089 that's crazy! 👍
thanks for posting this unknowingly on my birthday
This should be called “The Cold War “.
Used to do small scale soldering for a living. This was fun to watch.
Damn im gonna have to go with optimus when I decide to water cool, they have some extremely nice stuff.
You also have some sexy expensive taste 👍
I have their Intel V2 block. It's a great block and wanted this FTW3 block but didn't even know they had one until it sold out. So idk if I'm going to wait considering the price is $300+. Idk if the performance justifies the price.
I adore the add-hoc cobbling together of all these pieces, proper garden shed tinkering fun. :)
Steve, Jay & Paul: RIP EVERYTHING AND EVERYONE!
Linus: We tried to have fun with a 3090 SLI. 🤦🤦🤦
I love that prototype waterblock design. Its simple, purpose built, function over form.
Man the blocks from this company are sexy OMG
I'm so enjoying this.
The content getting better and better everyday.
Battle between tech channel is a very great idea!
"I am not good at soldering" - solders like a pro.
good equipment but poor skills
like a pro but not as good as a pro..... which is understandable as soldering is improved with extensive practice.
It sounds like Steve actually watched a few rossmann videos as practical guidance and invested in proper tools while jay sent it with a 10$ iron he filed the tip coating off before using.
I have witnessed Steve drop into rossmann streams before.
those waterblocks look awesome
Man, that block has a hell of a chunk of copper on it. Wonder what the card+block+backplate weighs at that point.
I wonder the price too, I might consider those for my 3070
@@gio9789 You want to buy a midrage 3070 and watercool it, putting the cost at or above the 3080 with less performance?
um
@@TechHug i'll buy first the 3070 then after i'll watercool it, i already have a custom loop, it' just a matter of the waterblock
+1 for using a CaseLabs mainboard tray! This is great, love seeing these still being used. Too bad CL went out of business, they did make great stuff.
THAT MOMENT WHEN YOU GET YOUR REPORT CARD RIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS AND GIFT GIVING SEASON 27:34
I love this battle stuff. Never stop Steve.
RTX 3090: Hey, Threadripper! Look at me!
Threadripper 4990X: 👀
RTX 3090: I am the GPU again!
Flux, in case anyone watching wants a quick answer, is a flow agent. It "pulls" the liquid solder towards the joint. It also helps prevent oxidation.
i'd really like to see direct comparisons of optimus blocks vs the other common brands on gpus. the reddit tier hyping and cost make me wary.
I have their signature cpu block and its the best ive ever used. Really impressive
well, aquacomputer and watercool didn't release theirs yet, EK also only shipped a few models afair. So let's wait a month or two for propper comparisons between the big ones :)
in terms of performance most water blocks are within spitting distance of each other; it really comes down to build quality and other features such as the MEM cooling and such. anyone who says X waterblock is so much better than Y waterblock most likely is just a fanboy, or working with incomplete or incorrect data. sure there are waterblocks that are significantly WORSE than the average, but its rare that you see something able to shoot above the 5% varriance you'll see between EK, Bykski, Bitspower, BarrowCH, AC, and the likes. the only player that really consistantly tops the Pack is HEATKILLER, but their blocks are ungodly expensive and... kinda ugly.
I just had a look at their AMD AM4 CPU Block, it's $119AUD which is a good price,
but then they want $97AUD shipping 🤨WTF???
@@shaneeslick yea, because it costs a lot of cash to ship a chunk of metal to literally the other side of the planet. wtf did you expect?
if you live in aus, buy from Barrow or Bykski.
My guess is that blue gunk that flowed into the reservoir was probably what made getting it going in the first place difficult. Very interesting video. It was super neat getting to watch the surface mounting.
I am a little surprised no one has tried a waterfall technique onto and through the radiator from the ice water reservoir.
Haven't even watched but I know Steve wins.
Jay is still on top for now.
"There's an alien growing in our water" was so good, almost caused me to spit-take.
I am drunk. I hope everyone is doing well. I love you all.
Me too spread the love my guy :)
Omg I just threw up twice now I’m more high than drunk
It's great to see you working with Optimus for GPU blocks!
Also, maybe the heat soak you are seeing is in the back plates? Possibly attach a thermocouple to the back of one and watch temps during a run to see if that's where you are getting those extended cool down times.
HELL YEAH! Lets get this BATTLE Started!
Come on Steve and Ocular Moses, Lets Ascend to the Next Plane of Existence and RIP These NOOBS! Hahaha!
That graphics card watercooling solution look slick (specially without LEDs), very industrial looking. Great video!
Your soldering isn't actually bad. Your main issue is a lack of confidence, you keep applying heat when the solder has flowed, and as the joint dries (lack of flux) you're trying to shape the solder.
Solder flows, the point of flux is to remove impurities and to assist the joint in flowing. The trick is to set your work up before hand, and add enough solder and flux so that the joint flows between the two points you want to join.
The key is to add flux, then add heat, then add solder, and keep the heat on for a few seconds afterwards.
If it's in the right place you do not need to move your iron, unless you're removing components.
Credit for declaring on camera you don't know what you are doing, honesty is awesome
Flux is used to:
-lower the melting point of the solder
-decrease the surface tension of the molten metal
-remove and prevent oxidation layer on top of the molten metal that prevents it from wetting the copper or solder joints.
-produce smoke while you solder that targets your eyes.
-spread and smooth the temperature on the board.
Those blocks are insane, gotta love huge chunks of machined metal
Flux's main effect is to trap impurities and lift to the surface so that the actual weld or solder is completely clean. A clean join is a strong join and a strong join is a happy join.
Just picked up the Optimus block for my 3090 thanks to your video GN. Can't wait!
Flux makes it so that molten solder has better "wetting" action. When molten solder is exposed to air, it builds up an oxide layer on the outside, which prevents it from wetting the surface of whatever you intend to solder. This can be perceived as the solder being "difficult" to work with or not sticking, as well as solidifying into shapes other than a nice bead (such as pulling away your iron and the liquid solder solidifying into a peak or tower). Flux is an acidic compound that will dissolve away the oxide layer, as well as prevent new oxide being created.
From someone who has worked in the electronic manufacturing business for over 15 yrs. I can assure u for the soldering u are trying to do u don’t need the board preheated. It’s probably doing more harm than good depending on the type of flux in the solder roll u are probably burning it off before it haze a chance to react. The flux is a cleaning agent, each time u heat cycle the solder joint with ur iron ur creating a cold solder joint that’s why they look dull. I would recommend Turing ur iron temp up a lil and doing away with the board preheat.
You would benefit greatly by using some ceramic tweezers. I found them best for applying tiny SMD components. They don't seem to draw all the heat away from the solder joint like metal tweezers do.
My first try method is just masking tape to hold down large components when I solder. For an SMD, even just a toothpick over the top of the device and held down by tape works well. Leaves both hands free for the solder and the iron.
@@keithmyers2170 For large components, I just use my fingers to hold them in place until I can tack solder it. The smaller ones, I just use the tweezers or anything that's not really affecting the thermal threshold of the solder.
@@yahweh1x543 The majority of all my PCB board repair was through hole. So bending the legs of the part on the other side of the solder pad pretty much held stuff in place for soldering. When PCB's started transitioning to SMB construction, tape started to be used a lot more.
"Responding to Tryhard Paul with Tryhard Steve" had me rolling in the first second of this video.
I absolutely love your breed of comedy, Steve.
That Optimus stuff looks great. Just checked out their website - their nickel process looks really interesting, but it does also look like you'd need to buy exclusively Optimus stuff to take advantage of it. Could be worth it for the peace of mind that you're not going to get the plating coming off, though. Contender for my next build for sure.
I love these battle videos. It reminds me of pre-gaming computer times when we'd have to do absurd things in the name of frames.
Your soldering makes me feel way better about my own technique haha
@7:45 Flux helps the solder flow into place. It doesn't like to flow through air, only sticks to bare metal, and loves heat, so it's prone to sticking to your iron instead of what you're working on. The flux gives the solder something to flow through until it meets the destination metal, where it bonds, cools, and sticks. When in doubt, flux it out.
This vid just sold me on the Optimus GPU waterblocks.. I really like those!
loving the banter between you guys good luck
That block is GORGEOUS
You know i do solder, and was about to explain the purpose of flux, but google had a great explanation already:
In soldering of metals, flux serves a threefold purpose: it removes any oxidized metal from the surfaces to be soldered, seals out air thus preventing further oxidation, and by facilitating amalgamation improves wetting characteristics of the liquid solder.
chicago puttin it down. ive lived here my whole life and never knew about Optimus machining. apparently "Optimus's founding company machined parts for the Lunar Roving Vehicle (LVR) electric motor drive train." Interesting. Thanks for the info, i will be supporting them when i move to an open loop. SUPPORT LOCAL!
so glad you finally checked out optimus.. i've been collecting their stuff for awhile and want to see more builds / reviews of them...
I'm loving the friendly comp.
I Love it ! At same room température I think this build look like just more fast and efficient.
Flux prevents oxidation and impurities from getting into the joint. An oxidized layer interferes with the connection, weakens it both mechanically and electrically. It's the same reasons welders use shielding gas and/or coated welding rods.
Steve - "Now that Paul and Jay have gone try hard mode!" Had my like in the first 10 seconds. 😂