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3D Printing Tip - How to Get Good Overhangs
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- Опубликовано: 10 июн 2018
- www.kickstarte...
In this short video I give you two big tips for getting better 3D prints from your home 3D printer. How do you deal with overhangs that push the limits and are droopy and stringy? It may surprise you how simple the answer is.
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All music by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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I got used to sleeping with my printer running, now every time I start a print, I feel like falling asleep? I'll hear it finish in the middle of the night, wake up and start another print. Is this normal?
You're asking me what's normal?
Just a variation on a white noise machine really. At least if it malfunctions and catches on fire you probably won’t be hearing the motors anymore and that will wake you up.
3D Printing Professor good point, the guys at work asked me what I'm working on? I told them a female Android to bring to work, to beat them all up! Awkward silence,
yes its normal
Same here
Some good info! I've started playing with changing layer thickness at different heights to account for things like this, and I've found a world of difference in quality. Sometimes the print has taken twice as long, but if you end up having to reprint something due to overhang failure, I'd rather commit that time upfront, and have something I know will succeed.
You could do a follow up video on how to tell your slicer to do perimeters at a lower layer height than infills? That should give the best surface-detail and overhang capability while keeping the print time as low as possible (And to go with that, make shure to tell your slicer to print perimeters from the inside out). For prints where you have the overhang just at one side, you can try to turn your model in the slicer a little bit, instead of dropping it flat on the print bed. It will take some extra support beneath the model (like an angled raft), but usually the bottom surface is not critical and it's easyer to clean away any supports there.
If you use 'adaptive layers', the slicer can detect where you need to use thinner or thicker layers!
The more horizontal difference between layers (overhang situation), the thinner the layers get!
I use this a bit with Cura 4.8, dunno if other slicers have this feature.
I've run prints with 0.2 layers in 'trouble zones' and 0.4 everywhere else.
You get the fast build-time and fine detail!
It does look odd, however, seeing non-uniform layer-lines!
*
Fans: two is good...one on the hot-end to cool the just-printed material, the other offsides to cool the entire model!
Just like carbon steel, PLA shrinks more the longer it takes to freeze...fast freeze = almost no shrink!
Don't worry about cooling the bed; the part being printed will insulate the adhesion layer!
Start with small cooling, full fans by layer 3...
My early experimentation with adaptive layers resulted in layers cooling differently, so smooth walls became bumpy, in line with the adaptive curve on the other side of the shape. But I wonder if more fan is the key for it.
Be sure to check the blog. www.3dpprofessor.com/2018/06/3d-printing-tip-how-to-improve-your.html
Thank you very much, you helped a lot! I tried everything I knew even changing layer height and couldn't do anything, my overhangs were on the back of the model so I turned it to the side of the fun and voila.... perfect print )))
I have been using Cura 3.3 and the make enable Bridge settings and find it really helps print overhangs well. It really helps. Plus my printer is able to print 50-60 without any supports pretty well. I will give that a try. Always open to trying out new things. Love to learn new stuff as often as I can.
"icky poo" made me laugh audibly
another thing that greatly helps overhangs is the line width for similar reasons as lower layer height. i usually aim to have at least half the line on the print.
VERY good video. I literally have a print going right now that (despite making progress with a lower layer height) has stringing on the non-fan side. I understand more clearly now why people do those fan mods. Thanks for the learns!
Yeah, a few of my designs do have steep overhang, and my experience has also been that lower layer height has made better overhang, but I have not been able to explain why
I had a vague, intuitive notion that more, thinner layers were beneficial, but it was helpful seeing it diagrammed. Thanks! 👍
I'm going to try to modify the layer height, Thanks.
This was super helpful. Been printing replicas a lot lately and I had a grip that was a pretty heavy over hang and it came out bad, but this should fix that issue.
ive installed a 40x40x20mm noctua fan on the nozzle (with fang design) and now im doing 70 degrees overhangs with no problem (at 40mm/s), more than 70 degrees gets fucked up...lol working out to those ones.... your video was very useful. cheers!
makes sense, thanks.
Good tips! Thanks for sharing!
lol, no wonder i have had trouble with overhangs, not only is my anet a8's fan crap, but i usually print with 0.4 layer heith to save time.
What size nozzle?
best video on this subject
Nice video but the music was a tad distracting. Next time, lower the volume slightly and play something less "bouncy".
Wonder if we could use a Peltier cooler to make a special cooling nozzle? Something like this: amzn.to/2JBgn1z
Very well explained.
Logic accepted. Thank you!
Essential information at 4:00
line width! the most overlooked setting
Cuda FX in what regard? Is thinner better?
mostly in the regard, that a lot of people dont even concider it. :D
thinner lines are very detrimental to overhangs! useful for prints with very fine vertical details, and can dramatically slow down larger prints. most slicers still set the nozzle diameter as the standard line width - the worst possible choice for overhangs. (150% the nozzle diameter is often recommended. up to 300% can be used for extreme overhangs)
wider lines usually make for stronger parts too.
look at the illustration at 3:50 , and imagine the nozzle laying down lines. as long as the nozzle's opening doesn't move past the edge of the previous layer, the plastic will squirt out to the side, nice and flat. and the overhang will come out perfectly.
omg those dinos are soo cute!! Can I download the print anywhere??
More than you'll be able to print at once:
www.3dpprofessor.com/product/3d-models-low-poly-dinosaur-kickstarter-models/
Perfect, thanks for this video.
so what would I do if whenever I print an overhand, and the filament curls up instead of sagging?
Curl is caused by filament shrink. For that an enclosure is best and turning down your fan. Thinner layers will also help because there's less to curl.
@@3dpprofessor Here you say turning down the fan... another guy you´ve told he should increase the fan .... what now?!
@@ch.wey.4406 Try both!
It kinda depends on the ambient temperature around your printer, how strong the fan is, and which direction it's hitting your print from. So try both and see if the print is effected.
@@3dpprofessor It´s confusing. Actually with PLA you should have Overkillfanpower but in my situation it could be too much. And all the other factors like line width or layer height, temps or less print speed.... what a horror story! I´m not able to handle my curling edges ... permanently my nozzle rocks the printed peace. Especially a ball is a good test for me. I´ve tried soo much :-(
If I add too much fan on my prints the petg warps up
great im going to have to try that
with speed in mind for a 0.3 mm layer height profile couldn't you balance your extrusion width to lay more x/y lines so you wouldn't be reaching out as far? for would that slow it down more?
My experience with PLA and PETG shows the opposite, if I reduce the layer height to around 0.1-0.15, i get horrible overhangs, curling up like tomorrow would never come, however if i use 0.25 with a 0.4 nozzle, the curling just goes away, an I can print about 60-65 degree overhangs without problems. If I go higher, like 0.3, that's too much however, it starts to droop significantly, or if I go smaller, like 0.2, it starts to curl up, and both with PETG and PLA, fan settings, temperature, speed it doesn't matter, it happens always if I use different number than 0.25
I still need to try out how different nozzle sizes works with it, if it's a nozzle to layer height ratio then the layer height should be "nozzle diameter*0.625", or only a fix number, which is 0.25, I'm not sure about that yet
You might be over extruding. It makes the layers stick good, but makes material squish up around the sides, leading to the next layer being pushed up and, thus, curling.
@@3dpprofessor no, when I print a 5mm wide piece, it comes out exactly 5mm, measuring with a micrometer, and 100% infill
@@peterfoldesi483 That doesn't mean you're not over extruding. You may have just compensated for the over extrusion by under shooting your steps per mm. I'm not saying you are, just saying it's a possibility and that test doesn't prove you aren't. How are your internal holes? If you punch a 10mm cubic hole in a 20mm test cube, is the internal hole 10mm, or is it a lot less? If you make a screw hole, do you always have to drill them out? If you make a gap for a skate bearing does it not fit, despite careful measurement?
As tom Sanlander said, you could be adjusting your steering to compensate for a flat tire, doesn't mean you're actually driving straight.
Again, you probably did adjust it property. Just saying that test as you explained it doesn't prove that you aren't over extruding. I'm just throwing out possibilities for why thicker layers don't curl as much.
@@3dpprofessor if I print an 8mm hole, then an 8mm carbide endmill just go into the hole without any slop
I also tested it with 100mm, this time only a caliper, but I got correct dimensions
The guy in this video talks about this ruclips.net/video/nP_t-DVtqMw/видео.html
doesn’t the big fan affect the bed temp too? Wont that cause the print to break loose from the bed? Ive got a part that shows the exact same “Artifacts” as your green corkscrew thingie....Ill give the fan and lower layer height a try. Thanx for the tip!!!
With the techniques you described how steep can a overhang be, You said usually you can overhang by 45 degrees and then you listed strategies that can can make it steeper but you never said by how much it can make a print steeper.
That's because the actual number varies depending on hardware, where your cooling fan is, and the material you're using, but I've seen a well calibrated print do as high as 80 degree overhangs.
@@3dpprofessor Thank you, I am researching the abilities of a 3d printer to build overhangs and this video is very useful, i think it is safe to say 3d printers can't print 90 degrees or over overhangs so 80 degrees is pretty impressive.
thoughtful
I am trying to print a building with balconies, I have breakaway supports but really I want no supports
Bracing.
nice
whatsaaaaap :P spain here ;) good tutorial :D, trust me i'm home engineer :P
Do the new resin printers have this problem?
Which ones are the new resin printers?
Resin printers still have to deal with overhangs, but it's slightly different because of the peel. However, i suspect if Carbon's or the University of Michigan's technology that allow for curing off the film ever come into use we'll be able to see some wild new possibilities.
@@3dpprofessor Wow they sound good.
Low layer height master race. Anything above 150microns is futile, assimilate.
**assimilate, asimilate!**
What if I have the opposite problem, where the edges rise up and stay above the print head level. The head comes in for another pass and pushes the print down - lifting the opposite end off the bed, or straight up knocks it over. Would the fan help with that, or make it worst? Because that problem is explained with plastics cooling too fast and the proposed solution is to cut all air draft. I tried hotter temps - that didn't help, then I tried extruding with cooler temps and that improved things. Is that solution better than fans?
That is indeed curling. Lower layer heights will help by providing less to curl. More fan will also help by cooling it as soon as it comes out of the nozzle, instead of cooling over time which pull on the entire area. Adding a Z-hop might also help by getting the nozzle out of the way during travels so it won't knock things down.
that is also a lack of cooling issue .. for pla in my testing you can never have to much cooling
@@3dpprofessor Antoher guy you´ve told him to decrease the fan speed .... just 4 or 5 comments beyond
Thanks Joe, great coverage. Cheers, JAYTEE
Smaller nozzle is more important than layer height. I can put my layer height at .15 on a .6 nozzle and i'll still get AWFUL overhang droop.
Interesting. I would not have thought that. I would have guessed it was the other way around.
Help us professor, this hated bridging!
3:47 You meant 200 and 150 µ?
Psh, what are you doing printing in such chunky layers still. Are you trying to finish your prints in mere hours instead of days? Plebe.
Just kidding. Yup, I was off by an order of magnitude there.
I don't mind to print something at 0.02 layer height, but even on 0.1 it is often happened the nozzle often just buries in the previous layer, so overall result is a mess. (I have Tarantula with one Z motor yet, but changed the bed support to a new printed one with less oscillation, but still)
May be you'll have some advises about that in the further of your great videos
My first reaction is that the problem is your 3D printer. I've had bad experiences with every TEVO printer I've ever used. Every other 3D printer I've used can go comfortably down to 0.06mm layers. Maybe you need better stepper drivers.
On the plus side, I find 0.15mm layers to suitably straddle the difference between long prints and good looks, so stick with that.
3D Printing Professor Your animation shows 15um vs 20um examples. Clearly you meant 150um and 200um (0.2mm and 0.15mm layer heights and not 0.02mm and 0.015mm layers as the video indicated). Alex was correct about observing this single order of magnitude error.