SAFETY NOTICE - It is not good practice to raise your jack as I have in this video. DO NOT COPY THIS! The bricks can crumble or give way at any time. I have now purchased the correct size jack for our Europe trip. Please be safe and always use axle stands when working under your van. Thanks for watching 😀
I'm never ever ever ever gonna do this myself. That goes for all the stuff you do and build. Why do I keep watching all your instruction video's right until the end? No idea but consider it as a compliment for all your efforts. From the Netherlands I wish you all the best on your travels through Europe.
No not at all. We do like to rent (preferably the VW's T4 or T5) but no ambition to own one. Came across your video's as I do a lot of you-tubing on Van-life, Van conversions, restorations, etc. Yours stand out for your detailed planning, patience and craftsmanship. Very enjoyable. Keep it up.
@@bristocamino9376 Hiya, 5 years on and i found this vid by chance haha. If you're looking for a reliable MPV to use as either a normal driving or camper conversion then look into Nissan Elgrand E51. It's like a hotel on wheels and a fraction of the price of VW Transporters!
Picked up my new OEM break pads for our 2014 MB Sprinter and planned to swap them out this weekend. So far one of the better vids i found on the subject. Thank you for taking the time to create this.
Wow, I am feeling very accomplished. Thank you so much from across the Atlantic 😊. Just did the passenger side. Bought my 2015 sprinter used in November. I don't think these rear rotors were ever changed. You 20 minutes was my 6 hours of rusted frozen bolts. But I persevered and got my passenger side done. It's dark, so tomorrow to the next side. I'm praying 🙏 the other side won't be hard.
I can't buy another torque wrench when I have one buried in the storage unit that I can't find cos I know what will happen I'll buy it and the one I've already got will miraculously appear in front of me lol
Hey Greg. First (from the other side of the pond, US), I want to complement you on your videos. My wife and I have thoroughly enjoyed each one. They are VERY informative and have given us several ideas as to what we will do on our Sprinter. Our van will be multi purpose to use for our company and weekend trips. Obviously ours will be a bit different. Already the steering wheel is on the wrong side. Ha ha. I hope we can get ours looking half as good as yours, since I am not the expert wood worker as you are. But, I make up for for that with mechanical abilities. As a tinker on cars and trucks for 40 years, let me give you a couple of tips on brakes that I've found to work on every vehicle. #1- use some anti-seize on the threads of all mounting bolts very sparingly. That will be a big help next time you take them out (No need to hit them with a hammer). #2- Put some high temp brake grease on the smooth part of the two caliper (Cylinder) bolts. Because if it doesn't freely slide it can cause one side (or pad) to wear quicker. And, also some high temp grease on the ears of the brake pads. #1 and 2 will make it much easier next time you service your brakes and prevent uneven wear, extending the life of your brakes and making them more efficient longer. You have given us several tips and I hope ours will help you. Keep up the great work with your videos! Looking forward to the next. Dave & Uka
As an ex motor mechanic, the clout on the head of the bolt after applying WD40 was a standard operation. So good advice, Greg. Not finished video yet but so far everything on a par with what I would have done when I was in the trade. Good work.
@@GregVirgoe - Ha ha. No it's a pretty shit and dirty job bud. I have been out of the trade for a very long time. And I'd not go back. You are a very skilled fella, so I am sure there are hundreds of nicer jobs you could turn to if desperate!
I have to do my rear brakes this year and this video is just perfect. Thanks for making this video. If I ever run into you ever in my life your pints are on me mate! Cheers!
Great tutorial, Greg. I did this last year as I was getting a safety warning on the dash. Turned out to only be the front discs but wanted to replace everything with new as I had just bought the van. I ‘thought’ I cleaned everything well enough but I’ve since gotten some squealing at lower speeds. Grrr. I’ll wait for spring and then take them apart again to clean and re-lube. Keep up the great work!
Great video, Greg. It's lovely to see people share these kind of videos. :-) I would recommend to always check the activation arm, for the brake shoes. They are notorious for getting stuck. Also remember to adjust the parking brake(cable and brake shoes), after a change of brake disks. Last and not least; check, clean and lubricate the glider pins.
As always Greg you do an amazing job detailing the subject you are working on. You did a good job replacing the discs, they were really rusty. Cheers from Portugal!
Hi Greg, I do watch your videos with great interest. The interieur work you did on your conversion ist simply amazing and way beyond the skills I have. Very cool indeed. I am a master technician and as far as your repair on the brake system goes - well done! From my experience with vehicle brakes, I could only add some really minor advice: - Support the caliper with a piece of wire (from a wire coathanger or similar). Just resting it on the suspension could knock it off by accident and ruin the brake hose. - Yeah, I like using copper paste as an anti-seize compund too, I generally add a minute amount between axle flange and brake rotor to make the next service easier... - Break the sharp edges of the new pads with some sandpaper or a file prior to installation - it does cut down the chance of break squeal (as does the copper paste on the back between caliper piston and brake pad). Again - these are really minor issues. You even explained removing some of the fluid in the reservoir PRIOR to moving the caliper pistons back into the bore (most people miss that one and end up with a mess and brake fluid is destructive to painted surfaces). And the use of axle stands - exemplary! Best regards from Germany, Volker
Thank you so much for sharing. I am working on the suspension of my vehicle, and this bit is helpful. 🚐🚐🚐 I had my speakers on my phone; and I swear I thought that jerk down the street was coming down my street again with his stereo system blasted, but it was coming from the video, lol. You have more patience than I do, because I will be out there shaking my fist at them. Lol
It is such a busy main road, it's a cut through that lots of people use and it's also a main bus route, many times I have to re-take a shot because of either police sirens, loud music or ice cream vans going by
Hi Greg, Great video, as always. Here’s a couple of suggestions for the future. Even if you regularly bleed your brakes, the fluid that is in the cylinder will be in a bit of a ‘dead leg’. Therefore, when I do this job, rather than forcing what is almost always filthy fluid back up towards the master cylinder, I crack the local bleed nipple open so that, when I push the piston back, it expels the worst fluid out of the cylinder and into a jamjar for disposal. It’s usually much easier to push the piston back that way too - path of least resistance for the fluid - and prevents worry of overflowing the master cylinder reservoir. Also, once when I was when putting new seals, pistons and gaiters in, the manufacturer of those advised me that the mechanics’ favourite trick of using copper grease for anti-squeal and brake lugs (combined with red rubber grease on the rubber components) is best avoided and they recommended that the only grease you should ever put anywhere near brake components is silicone grease. (I generally find that the easiest/cheapest is from a plumbers’ merchant for fitting rubber-sealed plastic pipe parts together.) They told me that this is because copper grease is mineral-based and always migrates. Once even small amounts get to the rubber components, it causes them to fail, so you end up with split gaiters letting water in and the next thing you have is corrosion, seized slider pins and failing seals in the cylinders. They also said that the classic ‘red rubber grease’ that people tend to use on the rubber parts goes stiff within a couple of years and, again, you end up with a caliper that won’t slide, so just use silicone there too. If you ever need individual brake components (that often aren't supplied by your dealer spares department anyway), I’ve found BiggRed.co.uk in Worcester to be very helpful, with an extensive range of individual caliper parts. Regards, David.
Hi I have just enjoyed watching your video thank you for your knowledge. I just wanted to mention to spray paint the surfaces that are metal to metal it helps to prevent rust and when serving the breaks your self its easier to dismantle.
Really enjoy your videos. Literally building the van I've been dreaming of building for awhile with the motorcycle in the back and everything. When I do get to finally build it, itll be nice to look to these videos for how to do it. Thankyou!
Greg - all your videos are really appreciated - it would be helpful I think for all potential converters to have content reflecting the more esoteric aspects of the build like solar and power arrangements that are more pertinent in the scheme of things, to the transformation of a van to a motorhome. You certainly inspired me to bite the bullet - I have the new 4x4 sprinter on order for next year. Best regards - I hope the critique was constructive - it was in no way a dig at you.
Nice one Greg as always 👍 It was like the modern version of an Haynes manual 😀 I can’t believe you haven’t got a torque wrench LOL Lou there’s an idea for his Christmas present 🎁 👍 Best regards you two from us 3 👍😀🐾
It really isn't difficult Roger, this is one that anyone could do with proper instructions and save a fortune in garage fees. Sometimes the nuts are very hard to break free, but that's the only problem, having the right tools does make the job easier too.
More wonderful content, Greg. Before commenting on brake jobs in general, I have a question that I don't remember ever being addressed: I have my reasons for choosing a SRW Ford E-350 cutaway with 12' box. If you don't mind sharing, what are your reasons for choosing a single rear wheel Sprinter over what seems the more common DRW configuration? Many thanks. Pointers: 1.) Chock tires diagonally before commencing work. In front of front tire on one side and behind the rear tire on the opposite side. 2.) Release the jack only until the vehicle is resting on the jack stands, then reverse the valve to prevent the jack from retracting further. This my first backup. A second jack stand is my second backup. 3.) Hang calipers from suspension components to avoid brake line damage. I simply use a short length of wire clipped from the straight section of a clothes hanger. 4.) Protect electrical connectors from fluid contact (i.e. brake parts cleaner). I usually bag connectors, "sealed" with a small rubber band. 5.) Be careful not to contact/damage the rubber piston seal when wire brushing the caliper. Same goes for the rubber guide pin bushings on the caliper hanger. 6.) Remove caliper guide pins and inspect for corrosion and wear.This step is critical to any brake job. 7.) Remove caliper guide pin bushings, inspecting for any punctures, tears, etc., and clean the guide cylinder. 8.) Replace/reinstall caliper guide pin bushings and insert a small about of high temperature silicone lubricant. 9.) Apply high temperature silicone lubricant to the caliper guide pins and replace/reinstall. 10.) Bleed the brakes when the job is finished. The assistance of a helper is needed, as is a small receptacle to catch the fluid until closing the bleeder once the fluid runs clear. Tips: 1.) If a syringe isn't handy, a kitchen baster works in a pinch to remove brake fluid from the reservoir. 2.) Use an old brake pad or a scrap of timber when seating the caliper piston with an ordinary clamp. This ensures the piston retracts evenly, as well as avoids damage from direct contact with the clamp. Top up the brake fluid to the minimum fill line if the vehicle is cold, reseal the reservoir cap, and call it a day! Lastly, baby needs a bath! I know you'll have her spic-n-span before heading off though. Many thanks, as always, for sharing your wonderful content with the world, Greg.
I knew I could rely on you John to add the details that everyone needs to know, you are very knowledgeable on all topics. Why don't you have a channel? The dual wheel vans are not so easy to find here, in hindsight I wish I had gone for one of those as I mentioned in the Q&A video. I won't address each of your points as they are all very valid and you are 100% correct. Yes, the poor baby is in desperate need of a good shampoo and buff up :D She will be shining like a bright new pin very soon.
@@GregVirgoe Thanks for your kind words Greg. And thanks for so graciously accepting my comments. Hopefully I offer constructive, never critical, input. Like you, I'm a DIYer. My dad started me as his helper at least by the time I was 8 years old. I was a nuclear Machinists Mate and chemist on submarines, have owned six homes, far too many cars, and am currently converting my truck for full-time living. Again like you, I love to help others through sharing my experience. I just have a few years on you. 😵 Keep up the great work, sir.
John Coloe it has an air of sophistication about it, yeah, this guy knows what he's talking about. Mines all suited and booted too, we should be more street now we're van lifers 😆
Not going to lie, your hand untightening and tightening up made me flash back to Steve Austin.😁 Very much just dated myself!. Another job well done and instructions clear.
Mi Wei, that was one of my favourite programs, remember the titles when the space ship crashes and they say they can rebuild him lol classic TV they don't make em like that anymore 😃
Harve Bennett: Steve Austin, astronaut. A man barely alive. Oscar Goldman: We can rebuild him. We have the technology. We can make him better than he was. Better, stronger, faster.
Thank you for sharing Greg, I watched this knowing you would describe it in such a way that even us Joiners would understand, I might give it a go myself the next time and save myself a few hundred quid 👍😄
Hi good video. brake disc/drum dosent always slip off so easily. Sometimes need to back off the handbrake adjusters through a wheel stud hole! Also check there is no corrosion beneath the wheel cylinder dust seal. If any is present wheel cylinder may stick and cook your new brakes!
Good tidy work Greg as usual; I have watched all your van conversion videos and really enjoy them. - I have worked on vehicles all my life and, if I were you, I would be completely replacing the brake fluid. It might never have been done before, and with your long journey and heavy load, it would be a wise move. Going down a long gradient would generate lots of heat in your brake system, any moisture in the fluid will boil quickly and you end up loosing stopping power. Cheers.
Thank you mate, much appreciated. I was watching your Maldon ride out videos, I had no idea you are just down the road from me, I recognised the Tesco at Pitsea 😃 when you started off. When you got to the Rettendon Turnpike I thought for a minute you were going to go through our village.
I have overheated LWB Sprinter brakes on the steep hills of Devon before now. When the time comes I will be thinking of vented discs for my MWB. Like you said, the additional weight doesn't help if your brakes aren't up for it.
Recommended torque on those carrier bolts without access to a torque wrench > "pretty fucking tight, but not murdered up" I agree on the slight smear of copper grease on the back of the pads and where the touch the carrier. Still taught when I was learning 20 odd years ago.
*I noticed the wear on the brake pedal rubber, if both pedals have the same profile swap around the rubbers on clutch and brake pedal so there is an unused part where your foot naturally hits the pedal when coming off the throttle. Worn rubbers used to be the Gestapo vehicle tester's favourite sneaky fail when I took vehicles into for a taxi MOT test.*
Old Guy, I love it 😂 lol It's what I say every time the misses asks how long I'm going to be, so she got the original one printed as a surprise one Xmas.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! EXTREAMLY USEFUL! I'M NOT RICH BUT WANT TO BUY A SPRINTER VAN SOON TO TAKE HER ACCROSS AMERICA, AS SHE MAY NOT BE WELL. AGAIN THANK YOU! NEW SUB FROM 641...ALWAYS THUMBS UP!!!
I like how you rested the caliper on the suspension after taking it off, I’ve seen so many ppl leave them hanging down which can damage the brake flexi’s
One thing to add. Before pushing the caliper piston back in get a toothbrush and Simple Green and clean it up. This will help keep the caliper seals lasting longer.
Just did the front brakes on my girl`s VW Polo last weekend, left side took me 2.5hrs, right side just half an hour...that one disc came off only with desperate hammering... :-D Took me wonder, that the high-priced Brembo discs didn`t came with new grub screws! One thing to mind is that the wear sensor cables are very flimsy, the one on the old pad break off before i got the connector apart...Luckily, that Polo had only one sensor on the left side... :-P Using gloves on doing the brakes makes really sense, it`a messy job... In the end, the Polo was on new brakes for only 105€, VW shop called for the parts 170€ plus works... :-0 Thx for your vid! ;-)
Horst Szibulski, yes I have had ones that are really hard to get off, I was lucky with the sprinter. Mine came with new grub screws but they were the wrong size? You made some good savings, happy to help
Hi Greg, After watching your video I decided to tackle my 2011 sprinter brakes myself as the front brakes was getting bad and discs needed replacing. The front carrier bolts was a nightmare took ages to brake free but I stuck with it and eventually they broke free. The sensor wires I couldn’t remember how they was routed from front to back or just from the same side as they plug in. So I think I may have not connected them properly as my low brake pad light is still on on the dash. The rear brakes I couldn’t get the disk off at all as it seems the handbrake pads must need slacken off to get the disk off but the slackening adjuster must be seized. I couldn’t move it. So just chained the pads on the back for now. Brakes work fine now just a few hiccups. First time I have had a go at this. Will have another look at them front sensors 😁 Love your videos very helpful
I almost bought some for our van, then found wheel trims that look like the alloys I like (£700) and the trims have reflectors in the centre for a bit of safety. I figured once the trims look scruffy I might have saved up enough for the alloys. 👍🏻
Greg I used to work in the automotive industry. The little screw that holds the drum on to the hub, I think you called a "hodge bolt", its only real purpose is to hold the drum onto the hub as it goes down the assembly line. It is not needed to be replaced if you break it off trying to get it out. Just a friendly fyi. But as always on RUclips, consult a professional with any advise given on here.
I did think that its only purpose was to hold the disc in place while you put everything else back together, let face it that tiny screw is not holding anything really. Your 6 wheel bolts are doing all the hard work here. :D
But it do tend to make it much much easier to put your wheels back on, so taht the disc doesn't rotate ever so slightly. :-) :-) Especially on vehicles with bolts, instead of nuts.
@@kennethskou5597 Agree but spend about 2 hours trying to chisel them off my wifes Honda (Honda has two per rotor) and you will learn to hate them. They got chucked right in the rubbish container as soon as I got them out. Cheers to you all from the USA.
@ Sgt. Stones Haha, rusty automotive parts, tends to get the worst of my personality turned on. A few "nice" try, then some swearing, then chip my fingers and THEN i bring out the power tools. :-) :-)
Might suggest a smear of copper grease between the disc and hub, so it's easier to get off when you need to inspect the handbrake brake shoes. Also a little smear of copper grease on the threads of the little disc retaining set screw.
165Nm, or two ugh-dugs on the impact driver, or a extra quarter turn - if you don't have either. Hehe Excellent video, you may want have a look at the front discs...the bottom slider on the callipers have a common problem to seized. Which can cause uneven wear and very poor MPG
great vid Greg. going to put new pads in mine. will the warning break wear indicator now on my dash go out automatically when i put the new ware sensor on or do you have to reset it somehow from the dash? your warning light on your van wouldnt have been on because your pads wearnt low. cheers.
Good job mate but next time grease the slider pin bolts as these can seize. Also crack the bleeder before pushing piston back into the caliper as this stops all the scummy dirty fluid being pushed back into the master cylinder.
Nice job. Those pads and discs didn't look too bad at all just rust got to them way too early. They may have cleaned up nicely. Worth checking those slide pins and regreasing with some silicon grease while you got it apart.
@@GregVirgoe One think I did find was that the inner pad did not fit in properly. This was due to rust blowing outwards, particularly in the lower channel. An old chisel dressed it up nicely.
Greg, great video. I spend some time trying to find a video about the brake setup before I would start on my own, but there are not many. Is the front setup the same (apart from the handbrake)? Oil filter and interior filter are really issue to swap as well. perhaps you can do a video on that
Different vans do have different setups too. On the sprinter there are only ventilated discs on the front, no drums and the calliper is held on with Allen bolt and not a hex head bolt, but very little difference in the process.
@@GregVirgoe - it can be quite a point of debate between mechanics. My old bosses reasoning and his bosses before him, was it provides anti sieze, and also if they are torqued to correct torque setting the grease will provide a minuscule amount of lubrication so they will tighten minutely tighter. So tightening force should net-out but you still have the convenience of a bolt that shouldn't sieze in. He worked on trucks, vans and cars throughout his professional career so I trust his advice. I'm sure you will hear different in these comments if due course!
This is the view of many mechanics who work in the industry day in day out. However according to manufacturers manuals they should be clean dry threads. I can totally see benefits but for this video I have to stick with handbook for the H&S police 👍🏼😊
Very helpful Greg, I have the parts ready for fitting them in the spring, I have a squeaky rear brake at the moment, but I'm unsure whats causing the sound I get a low speeds.
The pads could be very low, you get the metal backing touching the metal fo the disc it can make them squeal at low speed. You have to be careful not to score the surface of your discs, unless of course you plan to change both pads and discs anyway?
I was wondering on that too. I’ve just started my own build on a 2018 LWB Crafter, having gained so much knowledge and confidence from Greg’s excellent content. My initial estimates on weight are looking very close, even with using Morland boards and being mindful of weight. I’m really curious to see how Greg has got on, especially with the plan to transport a motorcycle too. Maybe an idea for a video Greg, to discuss weight? Keep up the excellent content. Michael.
I was interested to see your rear wear sensor was on the inside pad. I have a 2018 sprinter owned by me from new. The wear sensor is on the OUTSIDE pad. I’m wondering if that’s why the brembo pads and discs I fitted squeal really badly? I’m a former mechanic from the 80’s. I did everything correctly. I’m a bit flummoxed now?
I guess if the pads are symmetrical in shape there is the potential to put them in on either side. Only an exploded parts diagram could answer which is right.
What happens if you don't clean the protective oil from new rotors? I replaced the front ones myself yesterday and didn't do that, (thanks for your video by the way), the truck stops but not the way it should. I took it for a drive after I was done and there was smoke coning out, I guess because I didn't remove the oil? Then when I pushed the brakes hard to come to an emergency stop, at low speed around 40kmh, it didn't stop the way it supposed to, like suddenly. Will it improve as I'm driving it or I should do something else?
While I understand your reasons for changing the parts, MOT sounds like a complete PITA. Judging by the condition of the rotors you replaced, any car in New York State (i.e. rust belt) would fail inspection. Tune into some South Main Auto videos to see first hand. Have a great trip & looking forward to more content from you.
Should have taken out your brake slider pins cleaned and re greased with silicon grease , they have a habit of sticking either top or bottom which gives uneven pad ware ,
There is something satisfying about replacing the old grimy stuff with the shiny and new. How much do you reckon you save for not having a shop do this for you?
That’s a good point. I managed to buy the discs and pads when they were on 50% discount so that saved me £200 on the parts. If the garage added 25% margin that’s another £100 and 2hrs labour at £75/hr that’s a grand saving of £450 plus tax So a considerable amount. The job cost me £200 in parts plus my own time 😀
Just a note, WD (Water disperser) is not a penetrating fluid. Using brake fluid and PB Blaster would be appropriate for this sort of job. Also, Sprinter owners are typically changing pads and roters all the time and not only pads.
Remember your new pads will take a while to bed into the new discs so the pedal feel / braking effort will be less good for the first 10 - 20 miles until the bed in properly.
SAFETY NOTICE - It is not good practice to raise your jack as I have in this video.
DO NOT COPY THIS! The bricks can crumble or give way at any time.
I have now purchased the correct size jack for our Europe trip.
Please be safe and always use axle stands when working under your van.
Thanks for watching 😀
I'm never ever ever ever gonna do this myself. That goes for all the stuff you do and build. Why do I keep watching all your instruction video's right until the end? No idea but consider it as a compliment for all your efforts. From the Netherlands I wish you all the best on your travels through Europe.
Fantastic compliment, thank you.
Do you mind me asking what brought you to my videos, are you doing a van conversion?
No not at all. We do like to rent (preferably the VW's T4 or T5) but no ambition to own one. Came across your video's as I do a lot of you-tubing on Van-life, Van conversions, restorations, etc. Yours stand out for your detailed planning, patience and craftsmanship. Very enjoyable. Keep it up.
@@bristocamino9376 Hiya,
5 years on and i found this vid by chance haha. If you're looking for a reliable MPV to use as either a normal driving or camper conversion then look into Nissan Elgrand E51. It's like a hotel on wheels and a fraction of the price of VW Transporters!
Picked up my new OEM break pads for our 2014 MB Sprinter and planned to swap them out this weekend. So far one of the better vids i found on the subject. Thank you for taking the time to create this.
Wow,
I am feeling very accomplished.
Thank you so much from across the Atlantic 😊.
Just did the passenger side.
Bought my 2015 sprinter used in November.
I don't think these rear rotors were ever changed. You 20 minutes was my 6 hours of rusted frozen bolts.
But I persevered and got my passenger side done.
It's dark, so tomorrow to the next side.
I'm praying 🙏 the other side won't be hard.
Plenty of penetrating fluid and leave to soak for a bit. A shock with a few hammer blows also helps. 👍🏼😃
Replace the drivers side today. Took 2 hours😅. Not as rusty. Yay.
@@time.528 That's good to hear, glad you got them all sorted ok, well done.
I always leave the hub cap off so I remember to check the wheel nut torque after a few miles. Great video.
I can't buy another torque wrench when I have one buried in the storage unit that I can't find cos I know what will happen I'll buy it and the one I've already got will miraculously appear in front of me lol
@@GregVirgoe my point was to check them after a few miles, not that important to use a torque wrench but definitely check after a couple of journeys.
Very wise and a good point, I'm glad I've got you guys here watching my back, thank you
I could watch this all day. There's something deeply satisfying replacing older parts.
Great video, Greg :)
Dazzletoad, great sense of satisfaction when you can DIY these tasks
Hey Greg. First (from the other side of the pond, US), I want to complement you on your videos. My wife and I have thoroughly enjoyed each one. They are VERY informative and have given us several ideas as to what we will do on our Sprinter. Our van will be multi purpose to use for our company and weekend trips. Obviously ours will be a bit different. Already the steering wheel is on the wrong side. Ha ha. I hope we can get ours looking half as good as yours, since I am not the expert wood worker as you are. But, I make up for for that with mechanical abilities. As a tinker on cars and trucks for 40 years, let me give you a couple of tips on brakes that I've found to work on every vehicle. #1- use some anti-seize on the threads of all mounting bolts very sparingly. That will be a big help next time you take them out (No need to hit them with a hammer). #2- Put some high temp brake grease on the smooth part of the two caliper (Cylinder) bolts. Because if it doesn't freely slide it can cause one side (or pad) to wear quicker. And, also some high temp grease on the ears of the brake pads. #1 and 2 will make it much easier next time you service your brakes and prevent uneven wear, extending the life of your brakes and making them more efficient longer.
You have given us several tips and I hope ours will help you.
Keep up the great work with your videos! Looking forward to the next.
Dave & Uka
That's Great Advice and thank you so much for giving it in such a clear and thoughtful manner, I really do appreciate it, thank you very much guys :D
As an ex motor mechanic, the clout on the head of the bolt after applying WD40 was a standard operation. So good advice, Greg. Not finished video yet but so far everything on a par with what I would have done when I was in the trade. Good work.
So if I need a job as an apprentice mechanic later in life I'll be ok? 😉
@@GregVirgoe - Ha ha. No it's a pretty shit and dirty job bud. I have been out of the trade for a very long time. And I'd not go back. You are a very skilled fella, so I am sure there are hundreds of nicer jobs you could turn to if desperate!
I have to do my rear brakes this year and this video is just perfect. Thanks for making this video. If I ever run into you ever in my life your pints are on me mate! Cheers!
Great tutorial, Greg. I did this last year as I was getting a safety warning on the dash. Turned out to only be the front discs but wanted to replace everything with new as I had just bought the van. I ‘thought’ I cleaned everything well enough but I’ve since gotten some squealing at lower speeds. Grrr. I’ll wait for spring and then take them apart again to clean and re-lube. Keep up the great work!
Great video, Greg. It's lovely to see people share these kind of videos. :-)
I would recommend to always check the activation arm, for the brake shoes. They are notorious for getting stuck. Also remember to adjust the parking brake(cable and brake shoes), after a change of brake disks. Last and not least; check, clean and lubricate the glider pins.
No
You would be an excellent professor with your attention to the important details!
Thank you 🙏🏼
As always Greg you do an amazing job detailing the subject you are working on. You did a good job replacing the discs, they were really rusty. Cheers from Portugal!
Than you very much Daniel, really appreciate your feedback.
@@GregVirgoe And we appreciate the work you have put to bring us such detailed videos of your work ;)
As always, well done video and good job on the brakes. Thanks for all the good information and ideas you always provide.
Thanks very much Ron
I feel much more confident now. I know i could do this myself if needed. Great video
Greetings from Belgium
Erik
Thank you very much Erik, best wishes
@@GregVirgoe thx. Best wishes and great trips for you :-)
Hi Greg,
I do watch your videos with great interest. The interieur work you did on your conversion ist simply amazing and way beyond the skills I have. Very cool indeed.
I am a master technician and as far as your repair on the brake system goes - well done!
From my experience with vehicle brakes, I could only add some really minor advice:
- Support the caliper with a piece of wire (from a wire coathanger or similar). Just resting it on the suspension could knock it off by accident and ruin the brake hose.
- Yeah, I like using copper paste as an anti-seize compund too, I generally add a minute amount between axle flange and brake rotor to make the next service easier...
- Break the sharp edges of the new pads with some sandpaper or a file prior to installation - it does cut down the chance of break squeal (as does the copper paste on the back between caliper piston and brake pad).
Again - these are really minor issues. You even explained removing some of the fluid in the reservoir PRIOR to moving the caliper pistons back into the bore (most people miss that one and end up with a mess and brake fluid is destructive to painted surfaces). And the use of axle stands - exemplary!
Best regards from Germany,
Volker
Clear and concise, Mr V. Such good instructions, I’d dare say even I could do it👍🏻👍🏻
I guarantee you could Don, no problem :D
Thank you so much for sharing. I am working on the suspension of my vehicle, and this bit is helpful.
🚐🚐🚐
I had my speakers on my phone; and I swear I thought that jerk down the street was coming down my street again with his stereo system blasted, but it was coming from the video, lol. You have more patience than I do, because I will be out there shaking my fist at them. Lol
It is such a busy main road, it's a cut through that lots of people use and it's also a main bus route, many times I have to re-take a shot because of either police sirens, loud music or ice cream vans going by
@@GregVirgoe understandable. We live near a busy main street and traffic comes through often with the same. So I know what you have to go through. 😬😬
Hi Greg,
Great video, as always. Here’s a couple of suggestions for the future.
Even if you regularly bleed your brakes, the fluid that is in the cylinder will be in a bit of a ‘dead leg’. Therefore, when I do this job, rather than forcing what is almost always filthy fluid back up towards the master cylinder, I crack the local bleed nipple open so that, when I push the piston back, it expels the worst fluid out of the cylinder and into a jamjar for disposal. It’s usually much easier to push the piston back that way too - path of least resistance for the fluid - and prevents worry of overflowing the master cylinder reservoir.
Also, once when I was when putting new seals, pistons and gaiters in, the manufacturer of those advised me that the mechanics’ favourite trick of using copper grease for anti-squeal and brake lugs (combined with red rubber grease on the rubber components) is best avoided and they recommended that the only grease you should ever put anywhere near brake components is silicone grease. (I generally find that the easiest/cheapest is from a plumbers’ merchant for fitting rubber-sealed plastic pipe parts together.)
They told me that this is because copper grease is mineral-based and always migrates. Once even small amounts get to the rubber components, it causes them to fail, so you end up with split gaiters letting water in and the next thing you have is corrosion, seized slider pins and failing seals in the cylinders. They also said that the classic ‘red rubber grease’ that people tend to use on the rubber parts goes stiff within a couple of years and, again, you end up with a caliper that won’t slide, so just use silicone there too.
If you ever need individual brake components (that often aren't supplied by your dealer spares department anyway), I’ve found BiggRed.co.uk in Worcester to be very helpful, with an extensive range of individual caliper parts.
Regards,
David.
Great video. I've never seen a brake job done before and really learned a lot.
I'm pleased that you found it to be interesting. 😊
Safety first! An awesome channel, thank you very much for sharing every step from the conversion process.
Appreciate your kind comment Pavel
Hi I have just enjoyed watching your video thank you for your knowledge. I just wanted to mention to spray paint the surfaces that are metal to metal it helps to prevent rust and when serving the breaks your self its easier to dismantle.
Or just a bit of oil 😅
Really enjoy your videos. Literally building the van I've been dreaming of building for awhile with the motorcycle in the back and everything. When I do get to finally build it, itll be nice to look to these videos for how to do it. Thankyou!
Thank you for your support and good luck with your future build.
Greg - all your videos are really appreciated - it would be helpful I think for all potential converters to have content reflecting the more esoteric aspects of the build like solar and power arrangements that are more pertinent in the scheme of things, to the transformation of a van to a motorhome. You certainly inspired me to bite the bullet - I have the new 4x4 sprinter on order for next year. Best regards - I hope the critique was constructive - it was in no way a dig at you.
fraser hardmetal all in good time, I'm only one man lol
Nice one Greg as always 👍 It was like the modern version of an Haynes manual 😀
I can’t believe you haven’t got a torque wrench LOL Lou there’s an idea for his Christmas present 🎁 👍
Best regards you two from us 3 👍😀🐾
Truth be told, I have got one Dave but it’s buried in our storage unit and I couldn’t lay my hands on it easily 😊
Best wishes to you all
LOL I new you would have one you are the legend that is Greg Virgoe 👍
Great Vid Greg as always mate, educational for those that have never changed pads or discs too..
I did want to explain a little what each part does for those that have never seen what they look like or done them before, hope that came across ok?
Why do you make everything look so easy ???? Great Vid as always!!
Everything is easy - except for the stuff that is hard. 😥
It really isn't difficult Roger, this is one that anyone could do with proper instructions and save a fortune in garage fees.
Sometimes the nuts are very hard to break free, but that's the only problem, having the right tools does make the job easier too.
I hope our brakes are going to be as easy as you make it look, thanks for sharing Greg
It is a task that anyone can do well. :D
Thanks so much my van failed on the mot because of brakes and im making the job myself Great info 💪🏼
More wonderful content, Greg.
Before commenting on brake jobs in general, I have a question that I don't remember ever being addressed: I have my reasons for choosing a SRW Ford E-350 cutaway with 12' box. If you don't mind sharing, what are your reasons for choosing a single rear wheel Sprinter over what seems the more common DRW configuration? Many thanks.
Pointers:
1.) Chock tires diagonally before commencing work. In front of front tire on one side and behind the rear tire on the opposite side.
2.) Release the jack only until the vehicle is resting on the jack stands, then reverse the valve to prevent the jack from retracting further. This my first backup. A second jack stand is my second backup.
3.) Hang calipers from suspension components to avoid brake line damage. I simply use a short length of wire clipped from the straight section of a clothes hanger.
4.) Protect electrical connectors from fluid contact (i.e. brake parts cleaner). I usually bag connectors, "sealed" with a small rubber band.
5.) Be careful not to contact/damage the rubber piston seal when wire brushing the caliper. Same goes for the rubber guide pin bushings on the caliper hanger.
6.) Remove caliper guide pins and inspect for corrosion and wear.This step is critical to any brake job.
7.) Remove caliper guide pin bushings, inspecting for any punctures, tears, etc., and clean the guide cylinder.
8.) Replace/reinstall caliper guide pin bushings and insert a small about of high temperature silicone lubricant.
9.) Apply high temperature silicone lubricant to the caliper guide pins and replace/reinstall.
10.) Bleed the brakes when the job is finished. The assistance of a helper is needed, as is a small receptacle to catch the fluid until closing the bleeder once the fluid runs clear.
Tips:
1.) If a syringe isn't handy, a kitchen baster works in a pinch to remove brake fluid from the reservoir.
2.) Use an old brake pad or a scrap of timber when seating the caliper piston with an ordinary clamp. This ensures the piston retracts evenly, as well as avoids damage from direct contact with the clamp.
Top up the brake fluid to the minimum fill line if the vehicle is cold, reseal the reservoir cap, and call it a day!
Lastly, baby needs a bath! I know you'll have her spic-n-span before heading off though.
Many thanks, as always, for sharing your wonderful content with the world, Greg.
I knew I could rely on you John to add the details that everyone needs to know, you are very knowledgeable on all topics. Why don't you have a channel?
The dual wheel vans are not so easy to find here, in hindsight I wish I had gone for one of those as I mentioned in the Q&A video.
I won't address each of your points as they are all very valid and you are 100% correct.
Yes, the poor baby is in desperate need of a good shampoo and buff up :D
She will be shining like a bright new pin very soon.
@@GregVirgoe Thanks for your kind words Greg. And thanks for so graciously accepting my comments. Hopefully I offer constructive, never critical, input.
Like you, I'm a DIYer. My dad started me as his helper at least by the time I was 8 years old. I was a nuclear Machinists Mate and chemist on submarines, have owned six homes, far too many cars, and am currently converting my truck for full-time living.
Again like you, I love to help others through sharing my experience. I just have a few years on you. 😵
Keep up the great work, sir.
Ah with your technical background that now makes perfect sense.
You look like a spring chicken in that avatar, or is it an old photo 😉 lol
@@GregVirgoe That reminds me, I dislike that picture. Too corporate. Not fitting any longer.
John Coloe it has an air of sophistication about it, yeah, this guy knows what he's talking about. Mines all suited and booted too, we should be more street now we're van lifers 😆
Not going to lie, your hand untightening and tightening up made me flash back to Steve Austin.😁 Very much just dated myself!. Another job well done and instructions clear.
Mi Wei, that was one of my favourite programs, remember the titles when the space ship crashes and they say they can rebuild him lol classic TV they don't make em like that anymore 😃
Had that same thought with the sped-up human/cyborg lug wrench effect! (-:
Harve Bennett: Steve Austin, astronaut. A man barely alive.
Oscar Goldman: We can rebuild him. We have the technology. We can make him better than he was. Better, stronger, faster.
Mi Wei, that should have been announced over my gym session this morning 😂 lol
We have a different Steve Austin over here on the other side of the pond.
Doing mine shortly, thank you for a great detailed video Greg....always very helpful.👍
You are most welcome 🤗 hope all goes well 👍🏼
Very nice and easy to learn thanks again
You are welcome 🙏🏼
Thank you for sharing Greg, I watched this knowing you would describe it in such a way that even us Joiners would understand, I might give it a go myself the next time and save myself a few hundred quid 👍😄
Thanks Gary, yeah I recon I saved about £450 doing this myself. 👍🏼😃
Thank you for the video. Its funny you call it disc. They call it Brake Rotors in North America. Cheers mate!
You're a legend Greg. Brilliant as always, big help.
I just redone mine today after 4yrs and 40k mikes the pads are still in good condition. 👍🏼😊
Hi good video. brake disc/drum dosent always slip off so easily. Sometimes need to back off the handbrake adjusters through a wheel stud hole!
Also check there is no corrosion beneath the wheel cylinder dust seal. If any is present wheel cylinder may stick and cook your new brakes!
Great job- a job I once thought I could never do now seems achievable because of you video Greg.
Hi Gregg. Great video, very informative and easy to follow. I'll be cracking on with this over the weekend. Thanks 👍🏽 Matt
Wow Greg, you make it look so easy yet again :) Thanks for this great video.
Maybe it's fear of the unknown that puts people of doing these jobs themselves as they are quite straightforward once you know what everything does.
Good tidy work Greg as usual; I have watched all your van conversion videos and really enjoy them. - I have worked on vehicles all my life and, if I were you, I would be completely replacing the brake fluid. It might never have been done before, and with your long journey and heavy load, it would be a wise move. Going down a long gradient would generate lots of heat in your brake system, any moisture in the fluid will boil quickly and you end up loosing stopping power. Cheers.
Excellent work, Greg. Thanks for all the great videos with clear and concise info and demonstration. As you Brits love to say ... Brilliant !
Thank you David :D
Thanks bud I’m glad you made a video as I need to change my crafter brakes and pads :)
Nice instructive video Greg. I wanna get out there and do mine now, even though they don't need replacing yet LOL.
Thank you mate, much appreciated. I was watching your Maldon ride out videos, I had no idea you are just down the road from me, I recognised the Tesco at Pitsea 😃 when you started off. When you got to the Rettendon Turnpike I thought for a minute you were going to go through our village.
@@GregVirgoe its a small world Greg.
Thx Greg great confidence builder. Just quoted £600 so gonna buy tools and do myself
I have overheated LWB Sprinter brakes on the steep hills of Devon before now. When the time comes I will be thinking of vented discs for my MWB. Like you said, the additional weight doesn't help if your brakes aren't up for it.
The fronts are vented discs as they always take most of hard work when breaking. You can get them with cooling holes too. 😀
Recommended torque on those carrier bolts without access to a torque wrench > "pretty fucking tight, but not murdered up"
I agree on the slight smear of copper grease on the back of the pads and where the touch the carrier. Still taught when I was learning 20 odd years ago.
That's exactly the amount of torque I applied 😃 good to know I'm on the right track 👍🏼
Thanks for a very informative video
I’m pleased you liked it 👍🏼😊
*I noticed the wear on the brake pedal rubber, if both pedals have the same profile swap around the rubbers on clutch and brake pedal so there is an unused part where your foot naturally hits the pedal when coming off the throttle. Worn rubbers used to be the Gestapo vehicle tester's favourite sneaky fail when I took vehicles into for a taxi MOT test.*
I will have a look at that, thank you for pointing it out for me 👍🏼😊
Here in AU, at least in Victoria, a worn rubber pedal will result in a fail in roadworthy certificate.
It probably looks worse on that dark bit of video than it actually is in reality. Cheers guys
Most important part missed did check the sliders were seized or not
Thank you very much for this video!
Ali Ramezani you are welcome👍🏼
Greg,,,The words on your T-shirt is what Picasso said when he looked up at the interior of the Sistine Chapel,,, Best Regards
Old Guy, I love it 😂 lol
It's what I say every time the misses asks how long I'm going to be, so she got the original one printed as a surprise one Xmas.
Michaelangelo!
very nice, clear, sensible and useful video. Thanks
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! EXTREAMLY USEFUL! I'M NOT RICH BUT WANT TO BUY A SPRINTER VAN SOON TO TAKE HER ACCROSS AMERICA, AS SHE MAY NOT BE WELL. AGAIN THANK YOU! NEW SUB FROM 641...ALWAYS THUMBS UP!!!
Thank you for watching and good luck on your trip 👍🏼😃
Greg is there anything you can’t do? legend!
I like how you rested the caliper on the suspension after taking it off, I’ve seen so many ppl leave them hanging down which can damage the brake flexi’s
Another favourite of mine, is to hang them up with a Bungee cord off the suspension for the same reason.
Greg Virgoe I first saw this practiced by Edd China :-)
AcheForWake I recon I’ve seen the same episode was that wheeler dealers?
Greg Virgoe yes, that’s it. Noticed the use of spare lining material to protect the floor.
One thing to add. Before pushing the caliper piston back in get a toothbrush and Simple Green and clean it up. This will help keep the caliper seals lasting longer.
Thank you, these are all very good tips that will help us make a better job next time, cheers
Just did the front brakes on my girl`s VW Polo last weekend, left side took me 2.5hrs, right side just half an hour...that one disc came off only with desperate hammering...
:-D
Took me wonder, that the high-priced Brembo discs didn`t came with new grub screws!
One thing to mind is that the wear sensor cables are very flimsy, the one on the old pad break off before i got the connector apart...Luckily, that Polo had only one sensor on the left side...
:-P
Using gloves on doing the brakes makes really sense, it`a messy job...
In the end, the Polo was on new brakes for only 105€, VW shop called for the parts 170€ plus works...
:-0
Thx for your vid!
;-)
Horst Szibulski, yes I have had ones that are really hard to get off, I was lucky with the sprinter. Mine came with new grub screws but they were the wrong size? You made some good savings, happy to help
Hi Greg,
After watching your video I decided to tackle my 2011 sprinter brakes myself as the front brakes was getting bad and discs needed replacing. The front carrier bolts was a nightmare took ages to brake free but I stuck with it and eventually they broke free.
The sensor wires I couldn’t remember how they was routed from front to back or just from the same side as they plug in. So I think I may have not connected them properly as my low brake pad light is still on on the dash.
The rear brakes I couldn’t get the disk off at all as it seems the handbrake pads must need slacken off to get the disk off but the slackening adjuster must be seized. I couldn’t move it. So just chained the pads on the back for now. Brakes work fine now just a few hiccups. First time I have had a go at this. Will have another look at them front sensors 😁
Love your videos very helpful
As always a top quality tutorial, thanks for this.
You are welcome cliff
I'd have put money on you pimping those calipers with some hammerite 😎👍🏻 Great video as usual Greg 👌
The thought did cross my mind John, maybe if I get some nice new alloys 😁
Are they on your Christmas list 😁🚙
I wish they were mate it’s crying out for a bit of bling ✨🌟⭐️
I almost bought some for our van, then found wheel trims that look like the alloys I like (£700) and the trims have reflectors in the centre for a bit of safety. I figured once the trims look scruffy I might have saved up enough for the alloys. 👍🏻
Greg I used to work in the automotive industry. The little screw that holds the drum on to the hub, I think you called a "hodge bolt", its only real purpose is to hold the drum onto the hub as it goes down the assembly line. It is not needed to be replaced if you break it off trying to get it out. Just a friendly fyi. But as always on RUclips, consult a professional with any advise given on here.
I did think that its only purpose was to hold the disc in place while you put everything else back together, let face it that tiny screw is not holding anything really.
Your 6 wheel bolts are doing all the hard work here. :D
But it do tend to make it much much easier to put your wheels back on, so taht the disc doesn't rotate ever so slightly. :-) :-)
Especially on vehicles with bolts, instead of nuts.
@@kennethskou5597 Agree but spend about 2 hours trying to chisel them off my wifes Honda (Honda has two per rotor) and you will learn to hate them. They got chucked right in the rubbish container as soon as I got them out. Cheers to you all from the USA.
@ Sgt. Stones Haha, rusty automotive parts, tends to get the worst of my personality turned on.
A few "nice" try, then some swearing, then chip my fingers and THEN i bring out the power tools. :-) :-)
Great video as usual. Keep in mind that the handbrake pads should he adjusted after changing the discs.
Yes, you are right we did adjust the position of the handbrake shoes but sorry didn't show this.
Excellent video !
Thank you 😊
Nice one Greg - I would have reused those pads tbh.👍
Norman Boyes, I have kept them for spares 👍🏼😊
Might suggest a smear of copper grease between the disc and hub, so it's easier to get off when you need to inspect the handbrake brake shoes. Also a little smear of copper grease on the threads of the little disc retaining set screw.
Great advice, thanks for sharing that, cheers
This is my next job on the van .. 😊
It’s not too difficult if you have the right tools. 👍🏼😃
165Nm, or two ugh-dugs on the impact driver, or a extra quarter turn - if you don't have either.
Hehe
Excellent video, you may want have a look at the front discs...the bottom slider on the callipers have a common problem to seized. Which can cause uneven wear and very poor MPG
I will check those when I get a few minutes, thanks for the tip :D
great vid Greg. going to put new pads in mine. will the warning break wear indicator now on my dash go out automatically when i put the new ware sensor on or do you have to reset it somehow from the dash? your warning light on your van wouldnt have been on because your pads wearnt low. cheers.
Stanly Kawazaki it will no longer be making the contact so it should reset.
Good job mate but next time grease the slider pin bolts as these can seize. Also crack the bleeder before pushing piston back into the caliper as this stops all the scummy dirty fluid being pushed back into the master cylinder.
Thanks for the tips Ash 👍🏼
Great video thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Glad you liked it Garry
Mate your a super star great video your amazing
Glad you liked it 👍🏼🤩
Great tutorial!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Nice job. Those pads and discs didn't look too bad at all just rust got to them way too early. They may have cleaned up nicely. Worth checking those slide pins and regreasing with some silicon grease while you got it apart.
very well done! thank you sir!
Thank you very much Ivan
Prolly the most simple video of how to doit !!!! Thumbs up n subs defiantly.
Nice work as always, nearly ready for the road 👌👌
Tks so much for making this video..
Great video as always! Was wondering if those were 300 diameter discs or if the 298 diameter ones will do? Thanks man!
13:31 With my Napa kit today, the clips were a little too narrow for my UK spec 2010 313. I just cleaned the old ones and re-fitted.
If that another aftermarket set I’ve not heard of before.
@@GregVirgoe One think I did find was that the inner pad did not fit in properly. This was due to rust blowing outwards, particularly in the lower channel. An old chisel dressed it up nicely.
Greg, great video. I spend some time trying to find a video about the brake setup before I would start on my own, but there are not many. Is the front setup the same (apart from the handbrake)? Oil filter and interior filter are really issue to swap as well. perhaps you can do a video on that
Different vans do have different setups too. On the sprinter there are only ventilated discs on the front, no drums and the calliper is held on with Allen bolt and not a hex head bolt, but very little difference in the process.
In the trade we used to put a thin smear of copper ease on the wheel bolt threads too.
I wasn't sure if that was ok to do in my mind I thought it might not make them secure enough?
@@GregVirgoe - it can be quite a point of debate between mechanics. My old bosses reasoning and his bosses before him, was it provides anti sieze, and also if they are torqued to correct torque setting the grease will provide a minuscule amount of lubrication so they will tighten minutely tighter. So tightening force should net-out but you still have the convenience of a bolt that shouldn't sieze in. He worked on trucks, vans and cars throughout his professional career so I trust his advice.
I'm sure you will hear different in these comments if due course!
This is the view of many mechanics who work in the industry day in day out.
However according to manufacturers manuals they should be clean dry threads.
I can totally see benefits but for this video I have to stick with handbook for the H&S police 👍🏼😊
Very helpful Greg, I have the parts ready for fitting them in the spring, I have a squeaky rear brake at the moment, but I'm unsure whats causing the sound I get a low speeds.
The pads could be very low, you get the metal backing touching the metal fo the disc it can make them squeal at low speed.
You have to be careful not to score the surface of your discs, unless of course you plan to change both pads and discs anyway?
@@GregVirgoe I have new discs ready to fit, so will be ok, I will let you know how I get on Greg.
Michael Aldridge, plenty of WD40 to slacken your nuts and you'll be fine, read John Coloe post in the comments he has some good extra tips
Great video
Thanks for the insight
A carpenters hammer!!!!
Great video...... but can I point out you didn't check the sliding pins were free (or didn't show this)
Chris Eastwood yes, it was just not filmed. Thank you
great video, thanks
Have you got the van weighed yet with all the new stuff in it?
That will be the week before xmas :D
@@GregVirgoe Good stuff, it's all going swimmingly!
I was wondering on that too. I’ve just started my own build on a 2018 LWB Crafter, having gained so much knowledge and confidence from Greg’s excellent content. My initial estimates on weight are looking very close, even with using Morland boards and being mindful of weight. I’m really curious to see how Greg has got on, especially with the plan to transport a motorcycle too. Maybe an idea for a video Greg, to discuss weight?
Keep up the excellent content.
Michael.
I was interested to see your rear wear sensor was on the inside pad. I have a 2018 sprinter owned by me from new. The wear sensor is on the OUTSIDE pad. I’m wondering if that’s why the brembo pads and discs I fitted squeal really badly? I’m a former mechanic from the 80’s. I did everything correctly. I’m a bit flummoxed now?
I guess if the pads are symmetrical in shape there is the potential to put them in on either side. Only an exploded parts diagram could answer which is right.
What happens if you don't clean the protective oil from new rotors? I replaced the front ones myself yesterday and didn't do that, (thanks for your video by the way), the truck stops but not the way it should. I took it for a drive after I was done and there was smoke coning out, I guess because I didn't remove the oil? Then when I pushed the brakes hard to come to an emergency stop, at low speed around 40kmh, it didn't stop the way it supposed to, like suddenly. Will it improve as I'm driving it or I should do something else?
Use some brake cleaner to wipe the discs and pads. 👍🏼😃
While I understand your reasons for changing the parts, MOT sounds like a complete PITA. Judging by the condition of the rotors you replaced, any car in New York State (i.e. rust belt) would fail inspection.
Tune into some South Main Auto videos to see first hand.
Have a great trip & looking forward to more content from you.
I love hard work. I can watch it being done all night. 😉
Good job, Mr V. Did it only take half an hour?
Should have taken out your brake slider pins cleaned and re greased with silicon grease , they have a habit of sticking either top or bottom which gives uneven pad ware ,
Thank you John, very sound advice. Cheers
i notice you didn't check the slide pins on the pad carrier to see if seized
A yorkshiremans daily grind I cleaned them and applied a little copper slip off camera
No torque wrench?? I can't believe I have a tool that you don't :)
lol it was in my storage facility with the rest of our house and I could not lay my hands on it for this video.
@@GregVirgoe when you get a chance, at least verify the torque of the lugs...
If they're steel wheels you just tighten then well, non-steel wheels require torquing to a spec.
Torque 110 Nm or 140 ?
@@BrusselsSouthsteel wheels require 240 Nm for the sprinter
video was helpful THANKS, but too bad you didn't go into replacing the parking brake shoes,,,, my 74 230 will be a challenge... Thanks, VW
I think in a later video I do show how to adjust the parking brakes
There is something satisfying about replacing the old grimy stuff with the shiny and new. How much do you reckon you save for not having a shop do this for you?
That’s a good point. I managed to buy the discs and pads when they were on 50% discount so that saved me £200 on the parts. If the garage added 25% margin that’s another £100 and 2hrs labour at £75/hr that’s a grand saving of £450 plus tax
So a considerable amount.
The job cost me £200 in parts plus my own time 😀
That's good to hear. I still remember going in for some new brake pads for $100 US that became a $500 ordeal, but that was around 10 years ago.
Just a note, WD (Water disperser) is not a penetrating fluid. Using brake fluid and PB Blaster would be appropriate for this sort of job. Also, Sprinter owners are typically changing pads and roters all the time and not only pads.
Remember your new pads will take a while to bed into the new discs so the pedal feel / braking effort will be less good for the first 10 - 20 miles until the bed in properly.
Another good point and worth a mention too. Thanks
Well done my friend, jobs a goodun 👍🏼😊
Good video. Thanks. But you really should torque to specs with a proper torque wrench.