I should explain further what is wrong with my choice of filler location. The black plastic cup that forms the back of the filler connection is not air tight at all in fact it has some quite big gaps in it. So when you release the nozzle some gas that is always released from the gun as it disengages goes through the back of the fitting and into my gas cupboard. It does clear via the drop out vent and it is a sealed chamber but it should not be in the van. I open the door up and vent any residual gas from the cupboard to make it safer after filling. This is why having one internally in a cupboard is absolutely a bad idea, because each time you fill that spent gas will go into your van.
Could the filter point not be sealed? Even boxed in from the rear of the gas box. I quite like the idea of it all being contained neatly within the gas box. I also like the height of the filler point (from a backache point of view)... My plastics low down are always covered in crud. Hmmm. Need to give this some thought.
I've really enjoyed watching this series. You have emphasized that DIY builds should and can be done safely without sacrificing quality. Thank you for sharing your talent. Have fun and stay safe.
Hi Greg, Were hoping to get our new van within the next few weeks. For months now I have watched many many van builds on here. But I can honestly say your videos are the best and you explain everything in an easy way to understand... I do have to keep watching the electrics video and the gas one because for some reason it just doesn't stay in my head.. I just wanted to say a big thank you and if we ever see you round and about. Then I will get you a beer. Thanks again
Simply a great series of van conversion videos. When it comes to my turn, I'll be heading straight back to these. What a fabulous resource you've provided for us all, Greg.... *thumbsup*
Great video. As a mobile caravan service engineer, ideally your regulator and more particularly the hose supplying the regulator should be higher than the bottle tap as the lpg liquid can enter the regulator causing it to fail. As you open the bottle you are opening up 7 bar of pressure. Also ideas lly the regulator should have been mounted the other way to aide it bei g higher than the bottle. Ie intake of gas into the regulator at the top. Just a heads up. Those regulators are great though so you have that on your side. Loved the series and I hope your have an amazing time touring.
How would you suggest to test for leaks and how often should this be done? Is a manometer or leak spray necessary, or there's an easier way? Is the compound on the olives essential?
Thanks for all your videos Greg. I rewatched your previous Gas video yesterday to confirm I can officially have a flexible pipe setup with a pull out camping stove because I'm very limited on space 👍
Once again you set the bar very high for the rest of us to follow. I am considering changing from a swappable cylinder to a refillable and was looking at under slung tanks. Not made my mind up yet. I hope the European tour is going well. Have a superb time.
This whole area is a nightmare. I'm building a Crafter LWB van as a project, with a view to perhaps hiring it out. I think this means it has to meet the BS EN 1949 and it has to pass a Gas Safe inspection. I've been talking to Gas Safe companies and they are all over the place in their advice. Most of them insist that the installation would not pass unless the locker is made out of metal - they quote a 20-minute fire resistance requirement. I believe that this is due to confusion with NCC requirements. I was looking at brand new (European made) commercial vans a couple of weeks ago and their lockers are built out of wood - so it would suggest that metal is not a requirement. One of the well known equipment suppliers also told me today that bottle-mounted regulators are not legal - which is also a bit of a nuisance if true, since I designed the locker with those in mind. Great video 😀
In the regs there is no mention of material and many manufacturers have wooden gas cupboards. For approval seal out a motorhome gas service engineer to check it for you. Ask your local motorhome spares supplier for details. Alternatively an underslung tank would get round all these issues.
@@GregVirgoe - thanks Greg. I really appreciate your rapid and very helpful response - as well as all those great videos. I'm beginning to think an underslung gas tank would have been a good decision. I wanted to use that space for the grey water tank - it's close to the shower!
Hi Greg. Great series and great respect for your talent and teaching abilities. Please do a complete detailed walk through when you have time, and maybe a wish I would have done this different video after a few months of travelling. (If there is anything) Share your adventures! Thanks and happy travels!
A gas locker or a gas cupboard is the thing you built, with the gas in the tank bottle. A gas chamber is a room where the gas is free floating, usually to cause harm... At least as far as i understand...but I´m no natural speaker... :-P Great video, as usual from you, thanks for the detailed explanations! :-D
In Australia we have a 'swap and go' setup where you can only exchange bottles, not refill them. I think this was done for safety as it doesn't require a skilled operator. So every petrol station and or hardware store has the standard 4.5kgs and 9kg bottles. Its about AUD$27 for a 9Kg refill. So in English money it costs about 14 pounds for a new exchange bottle. You also never have to worry about the bottles being out of date as you are continually receiving an up to date bottle. It cost me AUD$50 ten years ago for my first bottle and nothing extra after that.
Jackson Leisure supplies ad. mentions that the Truma gas level monitor isn't suitable for refillable cylinders. Is the one you chose different Greg. I've zero knowledge on these things but would like your take on it. Great video.....again. Superb workmanship and fantastic instructions through commentary . Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for another excellent Video Greg, and wishing you both amazing travels, how exciting! I'll be following your travel vlogs of course, with keen interest. M. ps, get the kettle on ;o)
Hi Greg and thanks for all the videos and knowledge. Helping me 5yrs after you’ve released the video. So after deciding I’m going to go gaslow fill up point as you have I realise they don’t stock the white plastic flange you’ve put over it in order to get easy access to it from inside and maintain that all important vapour barrier and I’ve even phoned them to ask to no avail yet. I’m wondering if you can recall where you got this element of the build from and if you could direct me towards it. Thanks again for all your help.
Hi Greg, just rewatching this one as I'm finally ready to fit the gas. Did you ever do a video on the security you added to the van? I'd be eager to see that. Hope you're having fun in Europe! Paul
Great video, thank you for your time and thoroughness spent on this subject! Do you by chance have a diagram available of your propane system design? Because I have a question about the use of shut off (isolating) valves vs. solenoid vs. manifold. Do you use all 3? In this video (around timestamp 7:33) you mention that after the manifold there are no other joins in the copper pipes until they get to the appliance at the other end. However, in your “Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van - Truma Combi 4e” video (around timestamp 19:00) before this one, you’re installing an “isolating valve.” In your opinion, is it best practices in a propane system to have all 3: solenoid and manifold inside the propane locker, then a shutoff (isolating) valve at each appliance? Cheers.
Sorry I don’t have a diagram for this. The solenoid valve is connected directly to the outlet of the regulator and is a fail safe device so in the event of power failure it will shut. I do have a manifold in the bottle cupboard and maybe this could be omitted as you can manually shut the bottle. Local isolation at each appliance is good I think for safety and maintenance purposes. Hope that helps
Hi Greg! Super video as usual. I was hoping to ask where you got your hinges from? I couldn’t see a link in the video description. We’re struggling to find some that are adjustable as you describe in your video. Do let me know if you can
Hi Greg brilliant video as always but could you just clarify exactly why you don’t like the position of the filler point. Hope you have a great time in Europe.
Hi Greg, great video. I wonder if someone can answer the question about why some Gas Engineers wont pass the system as safe if the cylinder is not housed in a 'metal' locker. There appears to be nothing in the regulations about the material of the locker. The one I've built is the same as yours, sealed cabinet.
Mange 2 you will find all production motor homes are not metal lockers Dave, struggled to find one at the NEC show, nothing in the regs that states the type of material to use. It can only be for the fire rating as nothing would contain an exploding bottle, but again no mention in the regs?
Great video Greg! Your videos go into so much detail and provide all the info anyone would need to build this themselves. I now know how much work goes into making a video like this so well done. When will we be getting the first European tour update?
Hi Greg I really enjoy your videos I was searching for the truma gas control solenoid that you used and couldn't find one where did you source yours . Keep putting up the videos they are great
Hi Greg, Really helpful video. I’m just installing a truma GS8 solenoid valve and the manual says it needs to go on a hose after the regulator rather than straight on the regulator. Have you had any problems with putting it straight on the regulator? Thanks so much!
Hi Chloe, if you look at this manual Fig B + C it can be fitted either after a hose as you say or direct to the regulator. I had fitted a remote regulator so had a High Pressure hose off the bottle to the regulator then fitted my solenoid valve to the regulator.
What I don’t understand is that there is two gas lines coming from gas bottle I I understand one separate to two lines , one go for kitchen and one for shower, how about the other one ?thank you always for support
Hi Kamal, the bottle is refillable so there is an outside filling point on the side of the van. From the fill point, there is a high-pressure stainless steel hose to the bottle, then off the bottle another high-pressure stainless steel hose to the wall mounted regulator. Off the top of the regulator is one 10mm copper pipe to the manifold, then off the manifold valves are two 8mm copper pipes, one goes to the cooker and one goes to the Truma boiler. Hope that helps you
Very complete guide there and I have just one question. The level device is battery powered I gather which means pulling the bottle out to recharge? Or did you run a feed to keep it charged in situ?
Matthew Jenkins its fitted with two AAA batteries which have a long life, the bottle is connected by flex hoses so you can just lift it up to put new batteries in the device.
Hi greg.thanks for all your amazing videos.pls show us where on the van that gas filler mount must be placed.you said if youd do it over you would put the point below floor level.my question is how that point would be protected against dirt etc.thanks.Marius from South Africa
I know they allow copper K type tubing for Propane. But I'm pretty sure they didn't mean for an RV. As it can bend, crack, swell from temperature changes and vibration...I would use Stainless steel flex lines...
Hey Greg. So informative as always! I'm wondering whether to install an internal cylinder or an underslung tank...how long does a full cylinder last you usually and how often are you using hot water / oven etc? Thanks
As always Greg another great video, I've learned an awful lot over the last few months, watching your videos. Im just about getting round to the insulation on my build. Im looking forward to seeing your solar install video also the security as well. Many Thanks Kevin
It does not specify a material for the compartment just that it must be sealed, have a drop out vent in the floor and the upstand below the door must be at least 50mm high to trap any gases at low level
@@GregVirgoe Excellent, thanks Greg. There is so much false information around and I’d remembered you were working from the regulations. Thanks for replying so quickly. Cheers 👍
Hey Greg, is there a maximum length the HP hose from the filling point to the bottle can be? Wondering how far the filling point can be to the bottle itself. Thanks!
Hi Gregg, I notice you have 2 straps to secure your gas bottle....I have a campingaz 907 bottle. With my bottle being so short do I still need to use 2 straps or will 1 around the middle be alright do you think?
This is the extract from the latest gas regulations, it does not sepcify any detaisl about size of bottle. So the way i read this you do need two means of restraint. 5.4 Requirements for the construction of cylinder compartments The cylinder compartment shall be designed so that: a) cylinders can be secured rigidly in an upright position with the valve uppermost to operate only in the gaseous phase to prevent inadvertent movement when the vehicle is in motion. For this purpose there shall be means of securing the cylinders at high and low level.
Great video, im finding the gas so confusing, just want it to be safe! Do you know if the gas manifold needs to be in the gas locker? if I locate just outside the locker would I have to have another drop out in the floor?
camper vibe I put mine in the locker for that exact reason. If you have gas joints or fittings and there’s a potential for a leak you should fit a vent. I put all the joints in the locker. So just a copper coil from that to each appliance. Have you watched my gas regulations video?
Good video once again Greg. With the filling valve on the exterior of the van and the gas bottle permanent. Is it now ok to have the airtight gas cupboard access door inside the van? Or does it still have to accessible from the outside?
Hi Greg. At long last I've got my gas all connected and I'm ready for Gas Safe inspection. My problem is over the size of gas dropouts in the locker floor. As far as I can see the minimum area for this is 10,000mm². That equates to around 5 of the normal sized dropouts (about 50mm diameter hole). How is it that every van I've ever seen has nothing like that? Am I missing something?
Hi Greg just found your channel I must say its very informative and I will be watching your videos to gain more knowledge especially about the gas bottle fitting, like Mark Crawley I'm very keen to find out how the Truma remote gas level has been working with the refillable bottle as the Truma site says it won't work with this type of gas bottle ? Can you let us know your experiences
David Mckenna you’re right it doesn’t work with a refillable bottle. The mechanical float valve inside the bottle disrupts the ultrasound waves so it’s no use at all.
Can you put the filler point in the skirt below the flashing on a sprinter? It is wide double thickness and am anxious two 70mm holes will cause issues with integrity?
Greg, after all of your travels throughout France, Spain as well as Portugal, would you opt for for refilling as you are here? Or would you Just refill moveable; 13 kilogram bottles (take out of the van independently each of the LPG bottles), and refill them in refineries In each country that you find yourself low on gas?
Thanks for sharing the information! Apparently the level sensor is battery powered. Do you know how long the battery lasts, and is it rechargable? Also, I'm guessing that the solenoid is closed when no power is applied, correct?
Greg Thanks, as ever, for the great content. I am thinking of place my LPG bottle in much the same place. How far along the side of the van (from the back) would the filling point need to be located so that it was a minimum of 500mm from the rear doors? I think I will locate mine under the van as you suggest. Thanks, again. Your videos are enormously useful. Richard
Hi Greg Just wondering where you buy the re-fill points from I don’t necessarily want to buy the gas flow ones I thought I’d be able to buy them separately
Great question and good point! It would appear so! This leaves me to wonder what the point of having the manifold to begin with, is, and especially inside the propane locker (where it looks very tight to reach). In the propane locker, you already have the solenoid installed so you can shut off propane flow remotely, and if needed you can also turn off the propane flow directly at the propane tank. Wouldn’t it then more useful to leave the manifold out entirely in favor of having shut off (isolating) valves at the appliance directly? If so, the trick then would be to mount the shut off (isolating) valves discreetly, yet accessible, eh?
Hi Greg, I have a question regarding the position of the dropout vent. Would it be acceptable to have it underneath the gas bottle if you had the gas bottle supported on legs?
Joe Harrison good question. mine came with a blanking plug that fitted inside the compression nut. Alternative you could fit a very small bit of tube with a cap end.
Hi, did you provide an effective means of ventilation for the water heater itself? Would a drop vent be a sufficient means of ventilation? and what other safety features would be required of a confined space for a fixed, permanent water heater like this?
Hi Greg - great video as ever.. I'm sorry the series is coming to an end.... I know from an earlier video that Truma were helping you on the use of their equipment so I'm wondering if they gave you any feedback on the level indicator and its suitability on the gaslow system. I'd read elsewhere that it may not be suitable so had decided against the purchase but I may reconsider based on your experience with it.
I think if there was a leak and gas came out, it probably wouldn't make too much difference where the electric socket was located Simon. I think gas from a leak, being heavier than air, will drop and dissipate across the entire contained area very quickly. Only thing that could be done for this scenario is to raise the electric sockets well above the "spill over" level - that is where gas can flow out of the vehicle, and even that is dubious because some gas will get into the air and quickly reach a combustible mixture ratio. Perhaps a strategically located gas detection device that shuts off all electrical power in the living area that will automatically shut off the electric gas valve Greg has fitted could be a good idea. I'm in the early stages of a build myself and have considered going all diesel for cabin heating, water heating and cooking simply because diesel will only combust when it is above 52oC. The biggest obstacle is the cost of diesel appliances compared with gas appliances. I've seen diesel heaters emerge that are quite cheap but they are new and are still an unknown quantity while diesel hot water and cooking appliances remain quite expensive.
@@MiniLuv-1984 yeah your probably right, I just see the socket and my heart fluttered lol only as I heard a story my friend told and just sor gas, next to a socket, like you say gas is heavier and I'm sure you would smell ect great build you have done an absolutely stunning job and very well done, the comment wasn't to stick a knife in it was just a thought. Keep you the great work and keep up with the fantastic build. This is my dream to do a camper for our family trips away. Regards
@@simonshenry I figured your comment was well intended Simon. In my build, the most surprising thing (that always in retrospect is not surprising) is the amount of planning and research and the amount of details that is required. I wish you the very best with your dream - so far mine has been extremely rewarding despite the insanely slow progress.
Great job Greg. Is there no concern though over having the solenoid in the gas cupboard? Don't know if that amount of electric current could potentially be a source of ignition
Hi Greg, Great informative videos! So much good advice! I’m wanting to install a refillable system to my self converted van and my gas locker is in the centre of the van. I’m wanting the refill hose to go through the floor of the gas locker and out to the side of the of the van tucked away underneath like you’ve mentioned you wish you had done. I’m just curious if this is possible and is there a maximum length the refill hose can be according to the gas regulations? I’ve hit a bit of brick wall figuring this out! Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Hi Greg, I see you have a single 11kg Gaslow bottle. How long do you go between fills, considering you have gas, water, heating, hob and oven? With hindsight do you think it is worth fitting 2 bottles?
Hi Greg, I'm about to install a similar system in my van. What did you use to extend the fill point on the inside of the van to meet the back of the gas locker, was it just a standard piece of plastic piping sized to fit over the top of everything? Cheers!
Hi Greg, was just wondering where you got the blanking cap for the gas manifold? Did you use a threaded cap or is it a compression fitting one? Great video by the way. Really helpful for the build. Sam
Hi, Do you have any good examples of fitting a filler point with a bracket down below the skirting of the van? As always your videos are very detailed and informative, thank you :)
Yes, there are a couple of options for underslung LPG tanks and it’s a very good solution. I should have gone that route and put the fresh water tank inside. 👍🏼
Greg Virgoe many thanks for that Greg I’ll look into it as I’m just about to start my own sprinter build. You’re videos are super informative and I’ve really enjoyed the build series.
Hi Greg great video as normal, quick question what’s the difference between were you put the fill up point on the van to were they put them cars? Cause when I had a gas car it was on the rear quarter.
Hi Greg, did you have any problems with the gas shut off valve getting hot? I bought one online (not truma) and tested it out on the bench but found it got really hot, to hot for my liking so decided not to fit it on the van. My gas locker isn't in the easiest place to get to so I'd like to get a remote shutoff valve fitted if possible. Great videos, helped me out big time during my build.
I used a gaslow 10mm regulator because I had 10mm pipe going to my valve manifold. Here is the link to it www.gaslowdirect.com/product/cavagna-30mbar-regulator-10mm/ They also make an 8mm version if you needed that instead. 🍻😃
Great Vid again Greg. In your previous gas vid you mentioned gas appliances needed sealed inlet and exhaust air like in the propex heater and gas fridge. What is required for the cooker. Is it ok just to open a window and roof vent or should it have a permanent low(ie floor) level air vent? Thanks
I should explain further what is wrong with my choice of filler location. The black plastic cup that forms the back of the filler connection is not air tight at all in fact it has some quite big gaps in it. So when you release the nozzle some gas that is always released from the gun as it disengages goes through the back of the fitting and into my gas cupboard. It does clear via the drop out vent and it is a sealed chamber but it should not be in the van. I open the door up and vent any residual gas from the cupboard to make it safer after filling. This is why having one internally in a cupboard is absolutely a bad idea, because each time you fill that spent gas will go into your van.
Could the filter point not be sealed? Even boxed in from the rear of the gas box. I quite like the idea of it all being contained neatly within the gas box.
I also like the height of the filler point (from a backache point of view)... My plastics low down are always covered in crud.
Hmmm. Need to give this some thought.
I've put an lpg tank underneath much better than a gas bottle 👍
It’s always a pleasure to see your work 😊
Thank you very much 👍🏼😊
Greg, I know I'm not alone in saying that I really appreciate the time you take to upload these build videos. Top class!
Potz4pizza 100% agree, wouldn’t be tackling my own build if it wasn’t for Greg, an inspiration and a great teacher 👍🏻
I've really enjoyed watching this series. You have emphasized that DIY builds should and can be done safely without sacrificing quality. Thank you for sharing your talent. Have fun and stay safe.
Hi Greg, Were hoping to get our new van within the next few weeks. For months now I have watched many many van builds on here. But I can honestly say your videos are the best and you explain everything in an easy way to understand... I do have to keep watching the electrics video and the gas one because for some reason it just doesn't stay in my head.. I just wanted to say a big thank you and if we ever see you round and about. Then I will get you a beer. Thanks again
Simply a great series of van conversion videos. When it comes to my turn, I'll be heading straight back to these. What a fabulous resource you've provided for us all, Greg.... *thumbsup*
Brilliant presentation! Thankyou for taking the trouble to explain things so well.
Great video. As a mobile caravan service engineer, ideally your regulator and more particularly the hose supplying the regulator should be higher than the bottle tap as the lpg liquid can enter the regulator causing it to fail. As you open the bottle you are opening up 7 bar of pressure. Also ideas lly the regulator should have been mounted the other way to aide it bei g higher than the bottle. Ie intake of gas into the regulator at the top. Just a heads up. Those regulators are great though so you have that on your side. Loved the series and I hope your have an amazing time touring.
How would you suggest to test for leaks and how often should this be done? Is a manometer or leak spray necessary, or there's an easier way? Is the compound on the olives essential?
Thanks for all your videos Greg. I rewatched your previous Gas video yesterday to confirm I can officially have a flexible pipe setup with a pull out camping stove because I'm very limited on space 👍
Once again you set the bar very high for the rest of us to follow. I am considering changing from a swappable cylinder to a refillable and was looking at under slung tanks. Not made my mind up yet. I hope the European tour is going well. Have a superb time.
Just bought myself a Kreg jig and I absolutely love it... 👍🏻 hope Europe is good! Happy trabels
Flap Bean, we are sitting by the beach 🏖 while I type this happy days 😀
Greg Virgoe you can go off people you know! 😂
Flap Bean sorry 😐🏖👍🏼
Brilliant Greg, nothing comes close to this on RUclips or anywhere else, thank you for sharing 👍😄
I was thinking this was going to be a "Full Van Tour" Great video! Thanks.
Your work is better-than-professional level.
Great video, Greg and as usual very informative and useful. Your attention to detail and craftsmanship is nice to see.
thanks for the video! looking forward to the full van tour
Excellent videos, super helpful for our van conversion 😊
Your eye for detail is somewhat amazing, sorry to say I just don't have the patience like yourself, great work my friend.
This whole area is a nightmare. I'm building a Crafter LWB van as a project, with a view to perhaps hiring it out. I think this means it has to meet the BS EN 1949 and it has to pass a Gas Safe inspection. I've been talking to Gas Safe companies and they are all over the place in their advice. Most of them insist that the installation would not pass unless the locker is made out of metal - they quote a 20-minute fire resistance requirement. I believe that this is due to confusion with NCC requirements. I was looking at brand new (European made) commercial vans a couple of weeks ago and their lockers are built out of wood - so it would suggest that metal is not a requirement. One of the well known equipment suppliers also told me today that bottle-mounted regulators are not legal - which is also a bit of a nuisance if true, since I designed the locker with those in mind.
Great video 😀
In the regs there is no mention of material and many manufacturers have wooden gas cupboards.
For approval seal out a motorhome gas service engineer to check it for you. Ask your local motorhome spares supplier for details. Alternatively an underslung tank would get round all these issues.
@@GregVirgoe - thanks Greg. I really appreciate your rapid and very helpful response - as well as all those great videos. I'm beginning to think an underslung gas tank would have been a good decision. I wanted to use that space for the grey water tank - it's close to the shower!
Hi Greg. Great series and great respect for your talent and teaching abilities. Please do a complete detailed walk through when you have time, and maybe a wish I would have done this different video after a few months of travelling. (If there is anything)
Share your adventures! Thanks and happy travels!
Hi Greg. Excellent quality content as usual
Another good video Greg. I read your pinned comment. I hope that you are enjoying your travels 😊
Such a great professional finish .
Another amazing video- so informative and well presented. Can't wait to see the van out on the open road and travelling around Europe.
Another super informative video my friend, well done....👍🏼😊🏆
Excellent advice as usual, and refreshing to see. Thanks again for what you do.
Superb work again Greg
another great video Greg, thanks for all your efforts. This one was very insightful. Hope you're having fun on your well-deserved trip!
Another great vid Greg, and really looking forward to the one on P-panels and security. Happy travels!
A gas locker or a gas cupboard is the thing you built, with the gas in the tank bottle.
A gas chamber is a room where the gas is free floating, usually to cause harm...
At least as far as i understand...but I´m no natural speaker...
:-P
Great video, as usual from you, thanks for the detailed explanations!
:-D
Lol Horst, yes you are right, when we watched it back Lou said you can't say gas chamber, people will think back to the war 😳
Hi Greg, will you be doing a full van tour?
I am also interested to know what the total cost of the van build came to.
Humza Moosaji watch the Q&A video, was about £10k for parts and fittings etc and £7k for the van from memory.
In Australia we have a 'swap and go' setup where you can only exchange bottles, not refill them. I think this was done for safety as it doesn't require a skilled operator. So every petrol station and or hardware store has the standard 4.5kgs and 9kg bottles. Its about AUD$27 for a 9Kg refill. So in English money it costs about 14 pounds for a new exchange bottle. You also never have to worry about the bottles being out of date as you are continually receiving an up to date bottle. It cost me AUD$50 ten years ago for my first bottle and nothing extra after that.
Always enjoy your videos. Very detailed 👍🏼
It's like a new series of your favorite show comes on.... Greg has a new video out... compulsive watching. :-)
Yes Greg another quality vid, search bar- Greg Virgo LPG
Virgoe with an E 👍🏼😊 thanks very much for watching glad you liked it
Good luck with your tour!!
Hiya Greg,
Nicely done Mate well done with the Gas Box Mate :-)
Can't wait to get the tour Greg 👀
My notifications were off, on now!
my legend!
Jackson Leisure supplies ad. mentions that the Truma gas level monitor isn't suitable for refillable cylinders. Is the one you chose different Greg. I've zero knowledge on these things but would like your take on it. Great video.....again. Superb workmanship and fantastic instructions through commentary .
Thanks for sharing.
Frazel Carioca, we have the standard one as far as I’m aware. Thanks for pointing that out I will do some further checks myself. 👍🏼
Lovely notification, you made my day. Cheers
Thank you for another excellent Video Greg, and wishing you both amazing travels, how exciting!
I'll be following your travel vlogs of course, with keen interest. M.
ps, get the kettle on ;o)
Hi Greg and thanks for all the videos and knowledge. Helping me 5yrs after you’ve released the video.
So after deciding I’m going to go gaslow fill up point as you have I realise they don’t stock the white plastic flange you’ve put over it in order to get easy access to it from inside and maintain that all important vapour barrier and I’ve even phoned them to ask to no avail yet. I’m wondering if you can recall where you got this element of the build from and if you could direct me towards it. Thanks again for all your help.
Interesting video thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Hi Greg, just rewatching this one as I'm finally ready to fit the gas. Did you ever do a video on the security you added to the van? I'd be eager to see that. Hope you're having fun in Europe! Paul
Great video, thank you for your time and thoroughness spent on this subject!
Do you by chance have a diagram available of your propane system design? Because I have a question about the use of shut off (isolating) valves vs. solenoid vs. manifold. Do you use all 3? In this video (around timestamp 7:33) you mention that after the manifold there are no other joins in the copper pipes until they get to the appliance at the other end. However, in your “Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van - Truma Combi 4e” video (around timestamp 19:00) before this one, you’re installing an “isolating valve.” In your opinion, is it best practices in a propane system to have all 3: solenoid and manifold inside the propane locker, then a shutoff (isolating) valve at each appliance? Cheers.
Sorry I don’t have a diagram for this. The solenoid valve is connected directly to the outlet of the regulator and is a fail safe device so in the event of power failure it will shut. I do have a manifold in the bottle cupboard and maybe this could be omitted as you can manually shut the bottle.
Local isolation at each appliance is good I think for safety and maintenance purposes. Hope that helps
Hi Greg! Super video as usual. I was hoping to ask where you got your hinges from? I couldn’t see a link in the video description. We’re struggling to find some that are adjustable as you describe in your video. Do let me know if you can
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Hi Greg brilliant video as always but could you just clarify exactly why you don’t like the position of the filler point. Hope you have a great time in Europe.
Yep. I would like this too.
Hi Greg, great video. I wonder if someone can answer the question about why some Gas Engineers wont pass the system as safe if the cylinder is not housed in a 'metal' locker. There appears to be nothing in the regulations about the material of the locker. The one I've built is the same as yours, sealed cabinet.
Mange 2 you will find all production motor homes are not metal lockers Dave, struggled to find one at the NEC show, nothing in the regs that states the type of material to use. It can only be for the fire rating as nothing would contain an exploding bottle, but again no mention in the regs?
@@GregVirgoe yeah thats what i thought Greg. Cheers mate.
Great video Greg! Your videos go into so much detail and provide all the info anyone would need to build this themselves. I now know how much work goes into making a video like this so well done.
When will we be getting the first European tour update?
The Wood Basher, I started editing last night so very soon
@@GregVirgoe Yeah I Decided to give my channel a name :)
Hi Greg I really enjoy your videos I was searching for the truma gas control solenoid that you used and couldn't find one where did you source yours . Keep putting up the videos they are great
Here you go autogasshop.co.uk/product/truma-remote-gas-solenoid-and-switch-gs10-10mm-fitting/
Hi Greg,
Really helpful video. I’m just installing a truma GS8 solenoid valve and the manual says it needs to go on a hose after the regulator rather than straight on the regulator. Have you had any problems with putting it straight on the regulator? Thanks so much!
Hi Chloe, if you look at this manual Fig B + C it can be fitted either after a hose as you say or direct to the regulator. I had fitted a remote regulator so had a High Pressure hose off the bottle to the regulator then fitted my solenoid valve to the regulator.
What I don’t understand is that there is two gas lines coming from gas bottle I I understand one separate to two lines , one go for kitchen and one for shower, how about the other one ?thank you always for support
Hi Kamal, the bottle is refillable so there is an outside filling point on the side of the van. From the fill point, there is a high-pressure stainless steel hose to the bottle, then off the bottle another high-pressure stainless steel hose to the wall mounted regulator.
Off the top of the regulator is one 10mm copper pipe to the manifold, then off the manifold valves are two 8mm copper pipes, one goes to the cooker and one goes to the Truma boiler. Hope that helps you
Very complete guide there and I have just one question. The level device is battery powered I gather which means pulling the bottle out to recharge? Or did you run a feed to keep it charged in situ?
Matthew Jenkins its fitted with two AAA batteries which have a long life, the bottle is connected by flex hoses so you can just lift it up to put new batteries in the device.
Hi greg.thanks for all your amazing videos.pls show us where on the van that gas filler mount must be placed.you said if youd do it over you would put the point below floor level.my question is how that point would be protected against dirt etc.thanks.Marius from South Africa
Hi Greg, whats that white plastic tube you used around the filling point that goes into the gas locker? Looking for somrthing like that for mine.
I know they allow copper K type tubing for Propane. But I'm pretty sure they didn't mean for an RV. As it can bend, crack, swell from temperature changes and vibration...I would use Stainless steel flex lines...
Hey Greg. So informative as always! I'm wondering whether to install an internal cylinder or an underslung tank...how long does a full cylinder last you usually and how often are you using hot water / oven etc? Thanks
If you have the choice and are able to go for the underslung tank. If I had space I would have done that.
More capacity, safer etc.
As always Greg another great video, I've learned an awful lot over the last few months, watching your videos. Im just about getting round to the insulation on my build.
Im looking forward to seeing your solar install video also the security as well.
Many Thanks
Kevin
Hi Greg, great video as always. How did you overcome the back door check strap that slides in where your gas cabinet is?
I fold them back onto the door and secure with a small wooden wedge. don't need holes in any of the woodwork and works really well.
@@GregVirgoe amazing idea. Thanks for the reply buddy!! 🙌🏼
Thanks Greg, really helpful. Do you need a drop out vent near your gas appliances too? For example under the oven/grill? Thanks again
Yes, I have one under the cooker and next to my boiler.
Hi Greg. Do you know if the the gas locker has to be metal lined under the latest regulations? Cheers
It does not specify a material for the compartment just that it must be sealed, have a drop out vent in the floor and the upstand below the door must be at least 50mm high to trap any gases at low level
@@GregVirgoe Excellent, thanks Greg. There is so much false information around and I’d remembered you were working from the regulations. Thanks for replying so quickly. Cheers 👍
Hey Greg, is there a maximum length the HP hose from the filling point to the bottle can be?
Wondering how far the filling point can be to the bottle itself.
Thanks!
Have a good time
Hi Gregg, I notice you have 2 straps to secure your gas bottle....I have a campingaz 907 bottle. With my bottle being so short do I still need to use 2 straps or will 1 around the middle be alright do you think?
This is the extract from the latest gas regulations, it does not sepcify any detaisl about size of bottle. So the way i read this you do need two means of restraint.
5.4 Requirements for the construction of cylinder compartments
The cylinder compartment shall be designed so that:
a) cylinders can be secured rigidly in an upright position with the valve uppermost to operate only in the gaseous phase to prevent inadvertent movement when the vehicle is in motion. For this purpose there shall be means of securing the cylinders at high and low level.
@@GregVirgoe your a legend. Thank you. 😁
Great video, im finding the gas so confusing, just want it to be safe! Do you know if the gas manifold needs to be in the gas locker? if I locate just outside the locker would I have to have another drop out in the floor?
camper vibe I put mine in the locker for that exact reason.
If you have gas joints or fittings and there’s a potential for a leak you should fit a vent.
I put all the joints in the locker. So just a copper coil from that to each appliance. Have you watched my gas regulations video?
@@GregVirgoe thank you. Great channel btw, really helpful.
Hi Greg,
Have you put your gas bottle in the van because of lack of space due to the waste water tank.
I would prefer to put it underneath and if I did it again I would put the fresh water inside and gas tank underneath where the water was.
@@GregVirgoe Thank you Greg. I'm hoping I can put my gas tank in front of the spare wheel, Looks big enough, I hope.
Good video once again Greg.
With the filling valve on the exterior of the van and the gas bottle permanent. Is it now ok to have the airtight gas cupboard access door inside the van? Or does it still have to accessible from the outside?
It is ok to have it inside but best to have a sealed enclosure and drop out vent. In hindsight I wish I had put the tank underneath the chassis
Hi Greg. At long last I've got my gas all connected and I'm ready for Gas Safe inspection. My problem is over the size of gas dropouts in the locker floor. As far as I can see the minimum area for this is 10,000mm². That equates to around 5 of the normal sized dropouts (about 50mm diameter hole). How is it that every van I've ever seen has nothing like that? Am I missing something?
Hi Greg just found your channel I must say its very informative and I will be watching your videos to gain more knowledge especially about the gas bottle fitting, like Mark Crawley I'm very keen to find out how the Truma remote gas level has been working with the refillable bottle as the Truma site says it won't work with this type of gas bottle ? Can you let us know your experiences
David Mckenna you’re right it doesn’t work with a refillable bottle. The mechanical float valve inside the bottle disrupts the ultrasound waves so it’s no use at all.
Can you put the filler point in the skirt below the flashing on a sprinter? It is wide double thickness and am anxious two 70mm holes will cause issues with integrity?
Brilliant videos Greg, really helping me with my camper conversion, could you send me a link to the regulator that you used please, thanks 👍
Stephen Cooper no problems here you go rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323647437074
Greg, after all of your travels throughout France, Spain as well as Portugal, would you opt for for refilling as you are here? Or would you
Just refill moveable; 13 kilogram bottles (take out of the van independently each of the LPG bottles), and refill them in refineries In each country that you find yourself low on gas?
Dude Leboski the refillable bottle is definitely the best way to go. So convenient and must cheaper than bottle exchanges. About third of the price.
Thanks for sharing the information! Apparently the level sensor is battery powered. Do you know how long the battery lasts, and is it rechargable? Also, I'm guessing that the solenoid is closed when no power is applied, correct?
Greg
Thanks, as ever, for the great content.
I am thinking of place my LPG bottle in much the same place. How far along the side of the van (from the back) would the filling point need to be located so that it was a minimum of 500mm from the rear doors? I think I will locate mine under the van as you suggest.
Thanks, again. Your videos are enormously useful.
Richard
I would locate it under the van if I did mine again. More capacity and just safer being outside.
Thanks, Greg. Being under the van, would it still need to be more than 500mm from the rear doors?
Ah! I think you mean locate the tank/cylinder outside.
Hi Greg
Just wondering where you buy the re-fill points from
I don’t necessarily want to buy the gas flow ones I thought I’d be able to buy them separately
In that manifold if you would close the first valve ,would that close the second one too?
Great question and good point! It would appear so! This leaves me to wonder what the point of having the manifold to begin with, is, and especially inside the propane locker (where it looks very tight to reach). In the propane locker, you already have the solenoid installed so you can shut off propane flow remotely, and if needed you can also turn off the propane flow directly at the propane tank. Wouldn’t it then more useful to leave the manifold out entirely in favor of having shut off (isolating) valves at the appliance directly?
If so, the trick then would be to mount the shut off (isolating) valves discreetly, yet accessible, eh?
Hi Greg, I have a question regarding the position of the dropout vent. Would it be acceptable to have it underneath the gas bottle if you had the gas bottle supported on legs?
Ello Greg! Don’t know if im being stupid here but what happens the other other of the manifold? Will I need to put a stop end on there?
Joe Harrison good question. mine came with a blanking plug that fitted inside the compression nut. Alternative you could fit a very small bit of tube with a cap end.
Hi, did you provide an effective means of ventilation for the water heater itself? Would a drop vent be a sufficient means of ventilation? and what other safety features would be required of a confined space for a fixed, permanent water heater like this?
Hi Greg - great video as ever.. I'm sorry the series is coming to an end.... I know from an earlier video that Truma were helping you on the use of their equipment so I'm wondering if they gave you any feedback on the level indicator and its suitability on the gaslow system. I'd read elsewhere that it may not be suitable so had decided against the purchase but I may reconsider based on your experience with it.
Great job, would you not worry about the gas pipelines being near your electric socket. Just if you ever had a leak
Just a thought
I think if there was a leak and gas came out, it probably wouldn't make too much difference where the electric socket was located Simon. I think gas from a leak, being heavier than air, will drop and dissipate across the entire contained area very quickly. Only thing that could be done for this scenario is to raise the electric sockets well above the "spill over" level - that is where gas can flow out of the vehicle, and even that is dubious because some gas will get into the air and quickly reach a combustible mixture ratio.
Perhaps a strategically located gas detection device that shuts off all electrical power in the living area that will automatically shut off the electric gas valve Greg has fitted could be a good idea.
I'm in the early stages of a build myself and have considered going all diesel for cabin heating, water heating and cooking simply because diesel will only combust when it is above 52oC. The biggest obstacle is the cost of diesel appliances compared with gas appliances. I've seen diesel heaters emerge that are quite cheap but they are new and are still an unknown quantity while diesel hot water and cooking appliances remain quite expensive.
@@MiniLuv-1984 yeah your probably right, I just see the socket and my heart fluttered lol only as I heard a story my friend told and just sor gas, next to a socket, like you say gas is heavier and I'm sure you would smell ect great build you have done an absolutely stunning job and very well done, the comment wasn't to stick a knife in it was just a thought. Keep you the great work and keep up with the fantastic build. This is my dream to do a camper for our family trips away.
Regards
@@simonshenry I figured your comment was well intended Simon. In my build, the most surprising thing (that always in retrospect is not surprising) is the amount of planning and research and the amount of details that is required. I wish you the very best with your dream - so far mine has been extremely rewarding despite the insanely slow progress.
Great job Greg. Is there no concern though over having the solenoid in the gas cupboard? Don't know if that amount of electric current could potentially be a source of ignition
Ever considered the top strap across the shoulder of the tank the stop vertical movement?
Hi Greg,
Great informative videos! So much good advice!
I’m wanting to install a refillable system to my self converted van and my gas locker is in the centre of the van.
I’m wanting the refill hose to go through the floor of the gas locker and out to the side of the of the van tucked away underneath like you’ve mentioned you wish you had done.
I’m just curious if this is possible and is there a maximum length the refill hose can be according to the gas regulations?
I’ve hit a bit of brick wall figuring this out!
Thanks and keep up the great videos!
hi, excellent video series - can you tell me what size cylinder you are using 6Kg? and what regulator you used please. TIA
Where is that long awaited van tour
2 questions... where are you from? How much have you invested in doing this?
From the UK. This video will give you a detailed breakdown.
ruclips.net/video/iARkTjdU3Ok/видео.html
Hi Greg, I see you have a single 11kg Gaslow bottle. How long do you go between fills, considering you have gas, water, heating, hob and oven? With hindsight do you think it is worth fitting 2 bottles?
Hi Greg,
I'm about to install a similar system in my van. What did you use to extend the fill point on the inside of the van to meet the back of the gas locker, was it just a standard piece of plastic piping sized to fit over the top of everything?
Cheers!
Top vid.👍
Hi Greg, was just wondering where you got the blanking cap for the gas manifold? Did you use a threaded cap or is it a compression fitting one? Great video by the way. Really helpful for the build. Sam
Hi, Do you have any good examples of fitting a filler point with a bracket down below the skirting of the van?
As always your videos are very detailed and informative, thank you :)
Hi Greg hope all is well, question is it possible to fit an underslung lpg tank or does that not meet the correct standards?? Thanks Dave
Yes, there are a couple of options for underslung LPG tanks and it’s a very good solution. I should have gone that route and put the fresh water tank inside. 👍🏼
Greg Virgoe many thanks for that Greg I’ll look into it as I’m just about to start my own sprinter build. You’re videos are super informative and I’ve really enjoyed the build series.
Hi Greg great video as normal, quick question what’s the difference between were you put the fill up point on the van to were they put them cars? Cause when I had a gas car it was on the rear quarter.
Hi Greg, did you have any problems with the gas shut off valve getting hot? I bought one online (not truma) and tested it out on the bench but found it got really hot, to hot for my liking so decided not to fit it on the van. My gas locker isn't in the easiest place to get to so I'd like to get a remote shutoff valve fitted if possible. Great videos, helped me out big time during my build.
Great video thank you. Shouldn't the gas locker be metal lined?
Hi Greg. As always, videos very informative. Do you have a link to the regulator you used? thanks. (I'll owe you another beer donation soon) 🎉
I used a gaslow 10mm regulator because I had 10mm pipe going to my valve manifold. Here is the link to it www.gaslowdirect.com/product/cavagna-30mbar-regulator-10mm/
They also make an 8mm version if you needed that instead. 🍻😃
@@GregVirgoe thanks Greg. N
The Truma site says thus gas measuring device is not recommended for refillable bottles or am I mistaken?
Great Vid again Greg. In your previous gas vid you mentioned gas appliances needed sealed inlet and exhaust air like in the propex heater and gas fridge. What is required for the cooker. Is it ok just to open a window and roof vent or should it have a permanent low(ie floor) level air vent?
Thanks