Zero Clearance Insert Plate for Evolution Rage 5S
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- Zero Clearance Insert Plate for Evolution Rage 5S
In today's video I'm making a zero clearance plate for my Evolution Rage 5S table saw. This video was long coming but now I can't imagine working with my table saw without this insert. Its a game changer in quality and safety when cutting thin strips.
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You can now support my channel via Patreon. If you feel my content adds value for you or its entertaining then help me continue to do so.
Any donations via Patreon are so much appreciated, you can find out more here: www.patreon.com/casualdiy Thanks!
I assume the membership fees are in English Pounds?
How many DIYers have all the sophisticated equipment shown in this guy’s videos ?
Hehe I know many that far better tools than I do 🤣 and trust me they have not even been on the same shelf in store next to "sophisticated" tools. Most of them are on par with Lidl and Aldi tools. You can't DIY without any tools. Sure you can tackle many projects with a hammer and a handsaw but let's be honest you will be very limited. And remember not having the tools is not an excuse to not tackle a project. Think what tools you got and adjust the project to those. With some imagination you could probably do this plate with some hand tools ( and the tablesaw as you already have it). So no excuses 👍
Yes let's have another film with alternative manufacturing for us guys who don't have a lot of power tools. Once again a great big THANK YOU FOR YOUR WORK !
Thank you kindly for watching 😁👍
Nice job on that zero clearance plate my friend.. Salute to u Sir from Dublin, IRE..
I love how u built out ur small shop. I need to get my arse in gear in get back to it starting today.. I've been putting it off for too long now. I think I will be out in my small shop/One car garage today and begin finishing the job I started..
I think a small workshop gives a lot of satisfaction and joy. Well worth it 👍😁
Great video and it all looks so easy, that is if you have huge amount of equipment you are lucky to own. The majority of ppl watching is don’t have that. So we watch it and discard it, as there is no way we can replicate it
I actually made another video making these with limited tools👍😁
Having recently brought one of these saws i found this very interesting. I will definitely be trying to do one of these. Great video. Thanks.
Thank you, it's well worth making. I can't believe it took me so long to actually get it done 👍
A great solution to a problem many of us have. It's a job I need to get to grips with very soon. Keep up the good work mate. Keep safe.
Thank you kindly my friend glad you liked 😁👍
Well done. A good solution to a difficult problem that was well thought through.
Thank you kindly but I just copied the original 🤣😂
This is amazing, I really think that there's a hive mind for makers and diyers I was literally about to tackle this job today. You have just made it a whole lot easier 🙌
Hehe great minds think alike 😂😉
Just fitted my evolution 5s aluminium ones Tomasz, 90 deg was fine,then tried cutting thorough insert for 45 deg and recked it lol,good job i have a spare.
Oh no shame that happened, good that you have a spare one at least
great vid, your reaction at 11.47, now thats a man very happy with his work, good work keep it up.
Hehe thanks 😁👍
thanks a lot! I was thinking of making one for my rage5 this week!
Its worth spending the time and making it 👍
Great video as always!
Great video - been looking at building an insert for my rage-5 but couldn’t figure out the lock - thanks for showing me how to do it!
No problem, it's just a simple solution, nothing fancy 😁👍
I made one from 4mm aluminium, made it a tight fit no movement in it at all side to side, back to front or up or down (no flex). Excellent video as usual
Thank you kindly. Yes that was my option as well. I may actually give it a go 👍
Same, 4mm ally fits perfectly, super quick to make just cut and file corners, no adjustment on thickness required. I JBwelded a couple of offcuts onto the front end so it can't lift at the back. Works great for multi use evo blade but I wouldn't want to put a wood blade through it. Mine have s sightly wider kerf and there's a bit of wobble on the saw as it gets up to speed. I've made a second to experiment with, am looking at cutting a wider opening and epoxy filling.
@@DavidGawen I'm thinking of making one from epoxy. Had two trails so far and they both failed but I'm not giving up 👍😁
@@CasualDIY I wouldn't make the whole thing from epoxy, wrong material really and zero clearance plates ultimately are a consumable so needs to be easy/quick/cheap to replace/repair. I did see a video where a guy made a few wooden ones like yours (for different blades/angles), and once the slot inevitably gets damaged fills the slot with epoxy and recuts the slot. Seems like a reasonable solution.
I also made one with aluminium. Perfect fit. 1 problem Is when change to a thicker blade
Nice job Tomasz. Lot of thought and effort gone into that
Oh yes. But just copied the original nothing else 😂😉
Lovely job Tomasz! This is my next project!
Worth making mate 👍
I'm thinking about buying this saw and this video popped up on my feed! I'll certainly make one of these, so thank you for the inspiration. I don't have a band saw or a belt sander but you could just use an offcut of ply or MDF of about the right thickness, then cut the outline rectangle on the table saw itself. Just round the corners off by hand. Great video 👍
Thanks, yes it's well worth making 😁👍
Well done mate I did watch most of this last night but fell asleep looking at phone ...... busy times. Just finished watching you did well
Lol was my video that intresting 😁🤣😂
Well Thomas that came out very very well great job and video thanks for sharing and remember#stay safe and make 🍺🍺👍👍
Thanks mate😁👍
Great video! If you wanted to create something similar without the need for a router or band saw you could look at laminating a few thin sheets of plywood, each cut to separate sizes before lamination, to give you the recess you need. Cheers
Hi yes that's one of the options I will be trying out 👍
Super pomysł i wykonanie, Pozdrawiam serdecznie 👍💪👌
Dzięki wielkie, również pozdrawiam😁👍
Smart! Thanks!
Thank you for watching 😁👍
GOOD VIDEO THANK YOU
Thank you kindly for watching
Nice 👌 I have the same tablesaw! Good video, as usual
Thank you👍
I made mine on the 3D printer. Fits perfect and is much stronger than the original plate. It ended up so good i sell them on ebay. In orange. Great vid as usual. Keep them coming.
Thanks mate, I've seen some on eBay. But wanted to make one myself 👍
Thanks for the video Tomasz. Because of time constraints I bought one of Tim's plates a month or so back and it works well with Saxton 80T blade, but liked your ideas, Tomasz! Keep them coming.
Absolutely brilliant job bud. Really like that. You made a way better job of the lock than I did lol...🤣🤣🤣
Hehe just more or less copied the original design 😉😂
Off to watch version two now.
Hope you'll enjoy it 😁👍
Once again, goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway: Great tutorial! Thanks for taking the time - I'm guessing rather a lot of time - to share the making of this rather useful addition to the already excellent Rage5s.
However, you took the words out of my mouth towards the end of the tutorial. As soon as I see multiple steps and machines being used, I tend to start asking myself exactly how much time do I want to be investing in this useful, but relatively minor upgrade. Alas, the answer, on this occasion, is not a great deal. Call me lazy, but I'll be sticking - no pun intended - with the gaffer tape for now.
You must have been reading my mind as the regards the second point you make. We all know this from using tape, or a thin offcut of plywood as a temporary zero-clearance plate: there is nowhere for the dust to go but straight up! As you say, though, we are not talking hundreds of metres of thin strips at a go, a wee bit of dust is a lot better, and safer, than thin strips of timber being fired in your direction!
You are, however, rightly proud of a rather lovely looking hardwood creation.🎨
Hehe thanks mate. I was using the gaffer tape as well but got fed up with a bit to be honest. I have to male this easier and quicker to make so stay tuned 🤔😁
Super ! Really !!!
Sauf que je n'ai pas de défonceuse (i don't have a router!).
How do i build this zero clearance insert plate ? (Comment faire ?)
This is brilliant. Just bought my Rage 5s and as you say, the plate is crap. I will certainly be making this for mine.
Definitely worth making 👍
Thank you for the nice vid. What glue did you use for gluing metal? (The one that you sprayed on)
It was CA glue with activator 👍
Great Video, I need to make one for my Evoluton Rage 5S.
A quick question what was the router bit you used in your router table?
Hi thanks, it was a rabbeting bit👍
Amazing job best on RUclips I think you should go into production 😁
Hehe you never know 🤔
Great build mate. Wish I could hire you to come and sort my shop out! Would be interesting to see how the dust collection is with the crown guard and dust host connected to that?
Hehe it would take me probably 2 years knowing my speed of work lol
Hmm I don't think the dust collection on this saw will be perfect under any condition but I think with the zero clearance plate it could help with the dust collection
Nice! Just after I bought a 3D printed one!
Hi Bob, it is, indeed, a thing of beauty! So, as I've already admitted to being too lazy to make one of my own, I wonder if you'd mind sharing with us where you sourced the 3D print option. And, of course, is it any good?
Where did you buy one from if you don’t mind me asking
Would be great to know where you can get the 3D one from please
eBay - seller is discman_0076wqz - it works really well.
@@rgoodenough cheers Bob, I'll check it out!
Доброго дня. Скажіть будь ласка , чи можна на станку пиляти лдсп без сколів ?якщо пропилювати в 2 рази?
Hello again! I, m one of your fan and I waited this video! I placed a order already for my Evolution 5-s....Still on is way to arrive-BUT....I hate that Zero Clearance! I wrote already to two other guys to ask help about have one from them...YOU are my last change! Because you're living in UK, so maybe is more easy to made one for me and send it via Royal mail. I can paid, off course, but I hope the price is "human"...NICE JOB! I wanna ONE, Please... Thanks Vincent
Hi mate and thank you. If I come up with an easier and quicker way of making them then I'll give you a shout👍
That’s great. Only thing is you have all the tools to make one
Well if you got a table saw then I'm guessing you would have most of those tools. If not then you can use trick I did to make the zero clearance. I've put a pice of duck tape on top of the opening. That worked for me very good for a fair bit of time 👍
Would it not be possible to strengthen the original Plate in some way ??
Of course you can try👍 end results may vary
Hi there, thanks for your videos, they are most helpful. I. Am new to woodworking and after watching your videos you inspired me to buy a evolution 5.S table saw like yours. I struggle with some jobs because I am visually impaired so I was wondering if you would make one of these zero clearance plates for me at a fee of course. Regards, Steve
Hi, they should be back on sale on my Etsy store end of June, beginning of July
Great job, you should make some and sell them because most of us don't have the other tools.
Lol so many people said that. If I only had time to make them 🤔
@@CasualDIY that's fair
Do you intend to make a different plate for dado blades or just use the factory one?
Unfortunately this saw is not designed to take dado blades. But I will be making more inserts as I do use different blades. I'm trying to make the whole process quicker, easier and using less tools.
Very good vid Thomas. What happens with width-way clearance when one needs the angle the blade to say 45 degrees?
You need a plate for 45 degrees unfortunately
Ha ha…yes…this is why the orange plate has such a wide slot in the first place…to accommodate BOTH vertical cuts and bevel cuts. The mfr COULD have provided a choice of clearance plates of course, but this is a diy machine and ‘make do’ is the name of the game.
Bonjour le système est bien mais comment fais-tu pour les coupes à 45 degrés avec ton système on ne peut pas incliner la lame
Tomasz great job as a suggestion why not try to reinforce the plate that’s already there that may be easier for some people because of the tool situation
Yes it's a option but you are still left with the large blade channel. Zero clearance can be very useful as well.
Hi there great idea, but what about the zero tolerance on angle cuts .
Not got around to those yet
I have done similar on my machine using ply. I have asked before but where do you get your timber from. You said local merchants but can you name drop a few as where I live I am finding it difficult find wood, apart from what builders merchants sell and that’s rubbish. Are there any good online stores you no about?
Normal construction timber I get from my local Wickes. Exotics and burl I get from www.woodwiseuk.co.uk/home/
And my local timber yard is called Whitmore's Timber.
Sorry Tomasz..i pressed the wrong icon by mistake....i luv the channel. 👍👍👍
What adhesives are you using buddy.. for this video, and was it the same for the sled runners in another video.. im still finding my way thru your videos and still got a long wY to go. 🤣🤣. So not sure if youve already done a video on what adhesives for what project wtc and finishing oils/ waxes??? Im totally new to woodworking..
My Rage 5s has just arrived this afternoon, so i cant wait to assemble it tomorrow and start on some of your add-ons and accessories such as the sled, router table etc.
Thank you for your good work tomasz and keep up the great vids. 👍👍👍
Sorry for the late reply I missed your comment somehow. Not sure which adhesive you are referring to. Could you give a time stamp please? I'm guessing it's the CA glue with activator
No router ? How about gluing 2 thinner pieces of different sizes to drop the plate into place for it to be level with the table.
Yes could be a good option
@@CasualDIY Wahey ! My 1st good idea lol. Great videos and reviews BTW
@@uncelsminor hehe thanks
Yeah this sounds like a good plan as well. The lip is 4mm deep. Anything below that is purely for rigidity, so could be thicker as long as it clears the mech, or even strips or even square/L section. From a materials point of view I can't help thing that a combo of HDPE and Aluminium would be ideal.
That is a neat solution to this problem. Making mine will have to wait though because my Rage 5S packed in shortly after I started using it and is currently boxed up waiting to be collected.
In the last 6 months I’ve had to send back a broken brand new press drill and a defective router lift. After much arguing with Rutland I might add who refused to believe it was faulty. The replacement they reluctantly sent worked fine I’m glad to say. Is it just my rotten luck or are tools pretty shoddy these days? I’m an old style Toolmaker to trade so I’m not unfamiliar with machinery and I can say hand on heart that none of it’s been down to me. My next purchase is a band saw and I’m looking at the Metabo 261. I expect I’ll have to send that back as well.
Any way, enough moaning. Thanks again for another good vid.
Sometimes it is down to pure luck mate. So far touch wood 😉😂 I was quite lucky with my tools. Maybe apart from some cheap sanders that I had 5. Until I invested in the Makita sander which is brilliant. So what I can say to you is that I wish you luck in your future tool purchases 👍😁
I had that same attitude from Rutland tools, never use them now for anything
I forgot to ask u about ur Bandsaw man? What make is that Bandsaw?? Does it have a cast iron table on it too btw??
Hi here is my bandsaw you can read some specs on it - amzn.to/3KnisPm
I have used a 4 mm aluminium sheet and cut it direct on the saw. I also cut the gap for the blade instead from underneath, from the end of the sheet to where I needed it. Rounded the edges and put two countersunk screws with washers in. Works perfect.
By the way. Does anybody know, why this saw is so hard to get now?
ive been looking to buy one and screwfix had a deal, but all sold out.
If you have a plunge router, you could use the original insert (terrible - we are agreed on that!) as a template.
For batching out I got a different way to make the grove, however its lets say not very safe so I did not share it with others.
@@CasualDIY Don't lose any fingers!
@@lafamillecarrington oh no, my fingers are nowhere near👍
Excellent video mate 👌 have you thought of maybe using your plate as a template for a 3d printed version ? Just a thought keep up the good work 👍
Thank you😁👍 I think I need to buy a 3D printer it's such a versatile tool 🤔
Casual DIY when you do I’ll buy one of these of you !! 🤣
Hi Tomasz, I made my plate weeks ago 'cause, as you said, the original one is pretty crappy and surely the major fault of this saw.
To be honest, I never even imagined to make it out of wood. First, I tried with plexiglas, but it was thicker than needed and I didn't have a router (yet). Also, cutting it with the same saw (I don't have a bandsaw either) was quite a mess, for plexi melts if the saw produces too much heat and the cut is very ragged and difficult to rectify.
I ended up splashing out 27€ for a 4mm thick 50x50cm sheet of aluminium (the rest of it will serve for other projects). That's because 4mm is the exact depth of the "rabbet" running around the plate. If you get a 4mm material then you don't need any thickness adjustment.
Then I cut the four sides with the same saw as well as the central groove (the way you did).
It took A LOT of filing to make the rounded corners and to widen and refine the groove. Remember that you can easily cut the groove with the original multi-material blade but that is 2mm wide only and thus you need to enlarge the cut to fit wider blades (the Evo wood blade I have is 2.4mm).
The shutting mechanism surely is a bit tricky. I made it (in alu, as well as the two notches) but it's so stiff that the screwdriver has already somewhat eaten into the head of the screw. Luckily, I found that the plate stays in place even without locking it (I know: it's not the top of safety features, eh?).
Take care.
On my 5S, the depth of the flange on which the plate sits was more than 4 mm and wasn’t even consistent. It varied between 4.5 and 4.75 mm which ruled out 4 mm aluminium. I bought some Perspex (acrylic) sheet with a nominal thickness of 5 mm which actually measured 4.9 mm and made two insert plates from that, one for 90 degree cuts and one for 45 degrees. But first I had to run my router around the recess to bring it all to a constant depth. The proof that the depth variation was nit due to poor depth measurements was that at the first pass of the router, it took metal off one side but didn’t even touch the other side so a second pass was needed after tweaking the router depth setting.
Surprisingly, I found the router cut noticeably deeper into the metal at both ends, between the two locating tongues and where the rotating tag fits under the flange to hold the plate down.
Even at 4.9 mm thick, the blade raised the new plate up slightly before cutting the slot but the plate was sufficiently well located that I was able to lower it carefully onto the rotating blade without lateral movement, to get the slot started (after removing the riving knife, of course). Once firmly seated it was then just a case of winding the blade up to its maximum height, then lowering it fully while I flipped the plate ever end for end to finish the slot exactly as Thomasz did, to create the slot extension so the riving knife could be replaced.
I have yet to make the plate for 45 degree cuts and have spare material so I can make a third plate which will accommodate all other angles in a single plate, albeit with greater clearance, but at least this will be a much neater fit around the blade than the original horrible plastic plate.
Hmm I was thinking about a aluminium sheet but it looks like it may not be that much easier option 🤔
Hmm it sounds like an interesting option 🤔
@@CasualDIY Sure it isn't easier. Advantages are (1) precise thickness and (2) no worry about rigidity (4mm alu is rigid enough).
Thomas what's that spray on the bolts and what is it for.?
It's CA glue with activator to hold it in place
@Casual DIY thank you Thomas
Need one please
Nice one...............how about trying to make one out of resin..............one you have made the mould. You could sell them.
Lol yes still working on that. The initial two trails failed 🤔
Hi Tomasz, would you be able to make any more and sell them? I'd be interested in buying one from you if so! Thanks, Sam
I'd second that, pretty please! I have went looking all around the internet for wood or aluminum!! No luck.
I’d buy one!
Hehe unfortunately don't have the time at the moment. This process just take a bit too long. But I'm working on another two options to see if I can make it a lot easier and quicker. So stay tuned you never know 👍
Does it tilt ok?
I've not made a plate for 45 degrees yet...
Nice one. You could sell these for a few bob.
Oh too much time and effort to make them mate. If I find a way to make them quicker then who knows 😉
Hey can u maybe show how to aline the fence as I spend so long trying to do this it's really annoying
Hmm on the fence you got two bolts on the top. I've undone those and aligned the fence to the blade and then secured the bolts. That's it.
@@CasualDIY iv done that it's the claping bit that I need help with when ever I go to clap it some it always shifts a little and then I end up having to mess around getting it just right I made a jig but it's a pain to do that if u get me
Daniel Hardy: There’s a technique involved in getting the fence to clamp parallel to the dado slots every time. The problem with Evolution’s otherwise excellent fence which clamps at the outfeed end in addition to the infeed end is that the two white nylon pads at the infeed end are rather too close together so its easy to tighten the fence clamp while pulling the fence slightly out of square.
My technique is to push the infeed end containing the two white pads firmly against the aluminium runner BEFORE then tightening the fence clamp. This ensures the clamp at the outfeed end pulls cleanly and squarely onto the aluminium extrusion forming the edge of the table without any tendency to pull the fence out of square.
I evolved this technique after noticing that my fence sometimes tightened out of square and repeated ‘tests’ showed a bit if scatter in the squareness. Using this technique I was able to obtain true squareness every time.
P.S. It also ensures the cursor stays over the desired marking on the scale every time. If the fence is pulled out of square while tightening it’s clamp, the cursor. can also move slightly from the required position on the scale.
What glue is it that you are using please ?
It's CA glue with an activator, its this one - amzn.to/3lqJsAX
@@CasualDIY thankyou!!!! I have ordered some now . Keep up the great work ! Your content is great 👍
Hello, are these no longer available on Etsy?
Hi, they will be back on sale from Jun when I get my workshop back👍
@@CasualDIY Thank you.
Tomasz..what kind of Ash is that. Its like nothing Ive seen in my whole working career😮
There you go mate, some info on it 👍
www.wood-database.com/european-ash/
Casual DIY i will stake my reputation on thatnot being fraxinus excelsior. Ash is my favourite timber and ive processed 1000s of cubic feet. 🤣
Nicely done, pain in das ass having stock falling down into the guts of the table saw so this works yeah ?
Thanks mate, yes it works perfectly. Feel so much safer now 😁
Why not just make the plate, clamp it in position and wind the sawblade up?
Which blade is it ?
Saxton blade with 25.4mm bore
Just an ideea. I ordered my saw two days ago so I did not see it yet live but from the presentation video I understand that there is a space between the table and the fence. Keeping that in mind, I think there would be possible to lay a sheet of acrylic or some sort of thin material on the table and raise the blade so that it makes a zero clearence... table :) Just saying... Cheers!
Make me one
Hehe when I get my workshop back then no problem 👍
Tried to make a zero insert plate today. Absolute disaster. I turned the saw on with the plate in and it cut not even cat through. Just pushing the plate out of the slot.
Sorry to hear that. Maybe the blade was not at it lowest point to start with?
@@CasualDIY I routered out a bit for the blade but not confident in the stock blade. Going to put saxton blade in and try it again.
Would you make your Zero clearance insert plates and sell them? And ship to Australia?
I'm making a version 2 of this insert, less tools and easier process. I will make few more for sale on my Etsy but shopping cost to Australia would be too great to be a reasonable cost to pay for anyone I think.
Good job! But it should be way easier to make an insert plate... have a love/ hate relationship with this saw...
I know right. I have to make something much easier and simple as I got different blades so will need few of those plates 🤔
Ok you did already an amazing job so sure you will really fine tune the process... I was wondering if getting rid of the original ledge and making a few new lower supports with set screws could make it easier in the end...
By the way if you’re willing to make this as a product to sell I’ll be interested...
Lol so many people said that. I need to think about it 😂
I dont get why people do this... use your current pate or buy a second. clamp on flat molding surface. get vulcanising plastic epoxy. Fill from underside of plate clamped down on the surface. put into saw and raise blade to cut clearance slot...done... if you use the proper epoxy, it will never separate. You'll have to go to an engineer supply shop and not a woodworking shop for that though.. for height to bed surface, just shim it
Have you thought about selling these ?
I'm making version 2 of this, less tools bit easier to make. I will have few on sale on my Etsy 😁👍
Casual DIY thanks I will look forward to seeing your video and will look for the the new version when you have it for sale. Much appreciated
Can u make one for me please.
They will be back in my shop in June, currently don't have access to my workshop unfortunately
@@CasualDIY ok thx I pick up my saw in 2 days , so I guess need to wait for it. Regards
I would have been more impressed if you had included the finish dimensions.
I'll try to add them to the description of this video 👍
Use thin flat ply sheet and you’ll not need the deep cutting bandsaw rip, or thicknesser operation nor routing a channel on the underside. Use a router with guide bearing to pattern match the orange plate and you’ll not need the accurate bandsaw profile, a jigsaw would do, even recip saw would do it, or a plain old job site hand saw. Glues! It is almost a cult..or meme, now that you ‘must’ do a double bond with CA plus regular pva/aliphatic wood glue….but this is not at all necessary…CA is immensely strong on its own and the religious use of ‘activator’ on small joints is totally unnecessary with normal CA. Alternatively the normal wood glue (a la Titebond etc) is also plenty strong enough on its own…just try separating the wood once it is fully dry. I am surprised those little lugs were not also clamped with small screws (j/k) as all joints on YT wood work vids seem to absolutely need CA + PVA + plus several wood screws even for the lowest stress/largest area joints!
Thank you for this great info👍