Briggs & Stratton Engine - Alternator and Voltage Regulator Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- This video covers the steps I took to replace the ALTERNATOR on my 18.5HP Briggs & Stratton Engine for my Craftsman Riding Mower. This included replacing the VOLTAGE REGULATOR and removing the FLY WHEEL. I include a lot of detail footage showing each step involved in getting to...and removing...the Fly Wheel in order to access the Alternator. I show how to use a MultiMeter and the Mower's AMP METER to isolate the problem...and verify I fixed the issue. I replaced the ALTERNATOR (and VOLTAGE REGULATOR) because my Battery was not charging...the mower's Amp Meter was in the Negative Area (indicating it was DISCHARGING my Battery) instead of in the Positive Area (indicating it would be Charging my Battery).
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It's fun watching someone do things like this who aren't mechanically inclined.
The best step-by-step video on replacing an alternator for a riding mower--thorough and patient.😊
GREAT video!! This gave me the confidence to replace the alternator in my DR Field and Brush mower with a Briggs & Stratton engine. The alternator powers the electric clutch that engages the blade drive. So, no juice to the clutch, the blade won’t spin. After replacing the alternator and voltage regulator, the blade spins and I’m back in business. Thanks!!
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
Can't thank you enough Scott as I have exactly the same Craftsman DYT4000 tractor and as of today, my alternator/stator just fried itself. Ordering new alternator tonight online and trying the repair this weekend. Wish me luck. This was the best tube vid I've seen perhaps ever. Regards, John
Thank you for the "19203" clarification. That helped out in an online search for the correct engine puller!
Doing the Same thing this weekend. Like the IRONMAN Shirt. Thanks for the Help.
Great video learned exactly what I needed,you were very good at explaining each step thanks Scott, Glenn from Ontario Canada
Very informative and detailed. Appreciate the details. Thank you for taking the time to help others.
Great video. Agree that the B&S parts manuals don't correspond perfectly to the mower engine installed, even when using exact engine model number. Your video finally helped me identify where the problem was (broken single wire to the alternator) and the right parts to fix it. Time to order the parts and get going! Thank you!
Very detailed, just what I was looking for I am going to replace alternator in my tractor (same as yours) tomorrow (THE LORD BE WILLING)
Thank you so much for a excellent video, blessing to you & family.
I have the exact same model, instead of hydrostatic, it is manual. Thank you for the video!
Great video thank you for taking the time to help others . Very good info helped me fix my mower
Very nice job, Thank You
Very well explained.
Well explained,good job.
Very informative. Thank you
Nice job Bud!
Good work, noting more to be worry abouth,
Good tool its more than 50% of all the work..😉
Great video sir. Where did you get your thin combination wrenches from?
Hi there. Where does the earth wire on the voltage regulator get fastened to?
Good video
Thank you
Very good video, Thanks, but we wanted to see the difference in the mower's Ammeter??
Thanks 💯👍🏼💯
B & S does have a manual showing all the alternator and regulator permutations with wiring diagrams for each - any of them can physically fit the engines, even the dual half wave dc and ac alternators that are split electrically - and there is a higher amperage unit to attach to the rectifier as well. Also some regulate current instead of voltage...
I have the split charging system, the lights work on the non rectified/ac side, rectified side uses the inline diode instead of the block regulator, does have the electric pto clutch, does charge about 5 amps with pto off with but slightly discharging with pto on, do have 35v ac on the ac side of diode dc side unhooked with full charged battery only has 12.6 dc at the dc side of diode and 12.5 at battery positive, and with electric pto on discharging 1 amp,guessing the single wire block regulator will work on the 35v ac side in place of the inline diode?
@@chrischap2291 Those don't put out much amperage. I also am running a battery ignition system and that requires more than the original as well.
I need some help in finding a replacement pinion gear for 16 horse Briggs and Stratton over head valve motor
Steven Workman - I’m not familiar with that repair so I won’t be able to provide any input.
For an amp overcharging, 16.3 amp, it’s to the point where my battery blew up so I know my state is good so it’s probably the regulator.
The stator does have a ground, but it is connected to the armature with a little screw.
I recommend using a torque wrench and NOT an impact wrench too replace the flywheel ! If you use an impact it will over tighten and can cause major problems if you need to remove the flywheel again.
I really wish you would have shown where the voltage regulator is located.
Dave Burrows - the picture being displayed around the 3:38 mark of the video shows the “block” VR where it is screwed to the side of the engine housing.
Excuse me, what possibilities will there be for you to provide me with a copy of your original briggs & strattion parts manual?
Looks like mine has stopped charging (no charging meter on the mower). Battery voltage is 12.5V and doesn't change when engine starts. Nor does it change with rpm. I think it probably should as the circuit diagram refers to a Rectifier Diode rather than a Voltage Regulator. Will probably check the fuse first then the voltages in the input and output of the Rectifier.
Do that makes the machine turn off?
Juan Villa no it charges the battery
Where does the red wire from the voltage regulator get wired to? I replaced my solenoid and I don't hear any click from it. I'm trying to figure out what is wired to the solenoid. Battery side is connected to the hot (red) battery terminal; right? Starter side red is connected to the starter; correct? Where does the negative battery terminal get connected to? I had to get a four-post solenoid to replace my three-post, but it included a grounding strap so I grounded that to the frame right under the solenoid. I connected the switch to the Battery-side smaller post and I confirmed the switch works. I have another switch for the blade and I confirmed that it works, too. Any ideas? I'm getting no attempt to start and my battery is weak, but I have a jump box and can easily put the red on the starter and get it to crank (but not run unless it's with starter fluid ... but trying to address starting first before working about running ... suspect that's got to do with the fuel solenoid ... I cut it's whitish grey wire and I suspect it goes to the starter-side of the solenoid, but I'm unsure). I'd appreciate your thoughts!
Now, I even have another question: if the old B&S 12.5 hp motor had a 3-post solenoid and the new motor is a B&S 17.5 (not a typo) , is a different 4-post solenoid required? Do I need the grounding strap that came with the 4-post solenoid?
@@BillMartinRealtor I think the difference between 4 post solenoid and 3 post is how the solenoid itself grounds. In a 3 post you run power from key switch in the start position and that side of the solenoid grounds itself through the body against the frame. A 4 post your providing key power to one side and your providing a ground wire back to the battery in floating ground system or a ground wire to a known good ground on the engine/body. The red wire from the voltage regulator should go to battery and a fused red wire should go up to key from battery. The key should distribute power to safeties switches and pto electic clutch. An ignition wire should run up to key also and it should only see ground in the off position. That circuit is normally open when in the run and start position. Im a novice but I hope this helps. If I made a mistake I'm sorry for the inconvenience just trying to help.
I squirt any of mine with oil or pour some old oil on then smack the flywheel nut with a hammer to break any rust seals around it spray again with oil then unscrew
How do I find my replacement part for my alternator? The number I provide no one seems to have it. The model numbers have to match or am I wrong? My model is 31C707-0230-E1
Does it have one wire or two wires?
I have this same exact mower. 42" craftsman dyt 4000. It came with an 18.5 hp ohv. But it slung a rod. Soooooo, I had an 17.5 hp ohv engine I put on it. Small mods like I had to add a vacuum style fuel pump. I drilled a hole in the valve cover to run the fuel pump. I'm having the same problem with mine though. After watching this I'm gonna change the voltage regulator because the alternator is new.
You need the Model Number of the Engine...located on the Valve Covers. If you have the MANUAL then the Part Number will be listed in it. If you do not have the MANUAL then you can Google Search for it. If you can't find it then you'll need to disassemble the mower and do a Visual Comparison of what is installed with pictures on the internet. Still having problems...then contact you local mower parts place OR repair man and ask them. Doing a Google Search on "Briggs and Stratton 31C707-0230-E1 Alternator" brought up a bunch of info...including Engine Diagrams and Explosion Charts. One thing you'll need to know is if you specific engine has a DUAL Circuit, a 5/9 Amp Circuit or a 10/16 Amp Circuit.
Strange mine is 313707
What about the voltage regulator
I would love to see it charging fully....
He showed it on the multi meter 14 plus volts and also showed charge on the tractors amp meter.
PRY UNDER THE FLYWHEEL AND HIT CENTER WITH A HAMMER WORKS BEST.
I did that's the only way i was able to get it off
It would have been helpful to see you testing with multimeter to determine faulty parts and again testing after completion (which leads and setting on multimeter to which wires on voltage regulator and alternator. Otherwise, it was a good video.
Robbie Anderson - I agree. I did not think about those items until AFTER I uploaded the video.
You can get parts for your engine from B&S or from the mower manufacturer. Any mower parts store can look up the current part number for your mower.
When the bolt was tight in a bind when removing the fly wheel give it a little smack with a hammer it will turn loose
Robeft Yearian you are correct Sir it always works for me.
Your mower is a craftsman by Sears. Your parts manual/service book probably has the Sears part numbers. Could never get my dad to understand that Sears was just way overcharging for another overpriced dealer part.
SAE threads does not mean English threads. Most European threads including England's are in MM / millimeters which different from American. SAE means Society of Automotive Engineers which are our most commonly used American machine /auto threads of which you have two of these daily used types, [standard UN, Unified National sometimes UNC /coarse ] , exam: 1/4 -20 threads per inch [ UNF ,Unified National Fine] exam: 1/4 -24 threads per inch. You can get into another whole world of these things such as NPT , National Pipe Threads, which most commonly used around the house (water, gas,, etc.) are tapered.
R.W. - by using the term “English”, I meant American where I was associating England with Europe & the Metric System. Thanks for adding your very thorough and clear explanation on SAE.
WHAT? Nuts are bolts and bolts are nuts?? I'm confused.
Bolts/screws and the nuts go onto those counter clockwise to tighten them on when taking the engine off the frame
A prybar and a large hammer would have been 100x faster...ask Taryl Fixes all and he'll tell ya the same. 😉
I tried that, no help
How about a 31hp vanguard Briggs and Stratton engine flywheel removal
Stator
i dont see a voltage regulator
on mine
Me either
@@5.43v is hard to find the volts regulator sometimes. My Kohler engine was not on the side but was under a metal cover face down on the side,I was lucky to see it just for a square part show on top
@@kachiquitaito3341 I think mine is unregulated
@@5.43v agreed
drive shaft lmao
Stop fucking around and use an impact lmao
100ft lbs is 100ft lbs, not impact tight......
it only gets 60 ft lbs by the book!!!
60 lbs for flywheel Nut NOT 100 lbs!!!
The video was great, then you ruined it with your poor taste in noise some call music. Sorry 1 dislike headed your way.