16 year old first carburetor rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Jackson learns how to rebuild a Ford 1100 Autolite Carburetor
We share plenty of tips and tricks for building a Carburetor. From cleaning to final assembly follow along as Jackson gets it done.
Episode 213 Manic Mechanic
Jford@autorestomod.com
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Carburator maintenance and rebuild skills are priceless! I wish i had this type of resource 25 years ago when younger me gorrilla'd everything!
Nice job Jeff and Jackson, I remember rebuilding the two barrel on my Dad's his 1966 impala and showed me how to tune it after installing it.
Good stuff.
Nicely done, great video! Looking back I truly could of used a little education on rebuilding carburetors; needless to say my knowledge then was little to none
Good to see Jackson get to do some of the rebuild 😂 thanks for fixing the audio right away. As always another great video.
Thanks for letting us know!
Putting on the choke housing worked in rehearsal.
I understand where you're coming from.😎 But in all honesty, I've learned far more from my own mistakes than when everything was perfect.
I’d love to see a video on the 4300! I have one plus a spare to do for my ‘73 Mach 1 that’s been in the family since the late 70’s.
I am trying to find "the guy" that knows how to tune these. I want someone that is working with Pure Stock drag cars that knows the 4300 inside and out.
Jackson good job I a asshat with my son just like ur dad lol keep up the good work
Good job...😊
You know where is good for cleaning out those ports is a acetylene torch tip cleaner kit they were really good Jackson listen to your dad
Hello:
Do you have access to a shop manual for the car? It explains how the various systems work in the carburetor - more than what the carb kit instructions tell you. The diaphragm on the driver's side is the actual accelerator pump. The one on the other side is a dashpot to slow down the closing of the throttle - as you say, this is only used on automatic transmission cars. The part which installs with the 1 inch wrench is the spark control valve. The power valve is the L-shaped piece in the top part of the carburetor. You didn't remove it, and that is good, because it is not intended to be removable. As you say, pushing on the float doesn't apply a lot of force on the needle. But wouldn't you want to adjust it more accurately using the gauge that is in the kit?
Thanks for your work and I hope this is helpful.
Larry
Never adjust the float height by pushing on the needle valve. That will damage the tip of the valve. Bend the float adjusting tangs to put it into spec.
Good point.
You destroyed the needle when you bent the float down. You guys make pretty terrible content in general. I know you mean well and want to teach, but there are alot of people getting really bad info from your videos. You guys are 10 notches above the mustang medic clowns but thats certainly not something to brag about. You need to do a lot more research on the topics you are going to cover.
No, we didn't destroy the needle. I have NEVER had an issue with the needle bleeding after that procedure. Do you realize just how little force is applied there? No. You don't. And if they were that delicate, they would crumble under use.
Second, why are you here, why do you watch? Why come in and lambast us? I don't mind a healthy exchange on how you would do it differently, but to say "pretty terrible content in general" and "alot (sic) of people getting really bad info from your videos" is wrong. If we suck so bad, come on over on any given Saturday and we'll put you out there in front of the cameras to show us how to do it the "right" way. email me at jford@autorestomod.com and I'll send you the schedule and address.