Thank you, you made it possible for me to make this repair. i am 72 so anyone should be able to do this with your instructions. i really appreciate you putting this video up.
Your video has helped me alot. I ended losing the top screw, but it hasnt seemed to cause issues. I did have trouble getting it aligned to re'insert the actuator. I turned on the vehicle, slowly changed the temp, and pushed the back of the actuator. When it aligned, it slid right in. Good as gold! Thanks!
Brother you video was the most detailed for my issue on Ford Explorer 2015 Limited. ISSUE: Hot air on left , cold air not changing on right. I spent the most time messing with getting the Glove back on with the bottom TABS. ADVISE for others watching / reading, take off the bottom piece underneath the Glove. 4 Screws long dense threaded / 2 each side. It helps to reach the white tabs that you have to align and push in . I did end up trying to cut/breaking off the non-sense plastic shield, worked out. I recommend , cutting tape as per video then just breaking off the black plastic housing.
I can't think you enough for getting me through this. I had already had my shop replaced this just a couple years ago but I bought a cheap part. This time I got a little higher quality part and your wobble bit was a lifesaver. Thanks
Great tip for performing surgery on that plastic cover. I'm too familiar with that darn actuator module. You can tell it was designed to be almost impossible to reach .. except during assembly at the factory! If I have to go back into it, I'll be cutting that cover for sure! You never see it anyway. Thanks Dan the Man!
This is the best video of all for this fix. Nice Job. I have the part ordered. In our case it was the silent failure in our 2015 Explorer. That being no clicking. We have cold A/C on the left side and hot air coming from the right side. This failure was acute and noiseless. I put my Autel MS908 BT on it and it shows an HVAC Fault "mechanical failure of the right blend door actuator". Apparently our failure is somewhat common. The actuator looses it's position sensing ability due to the small size of the signaling wipers on the inside. Ford Tech Makuloco has a video up where he dissects one pointing out the weakness. These failures are common. Thanks for the good video on this Dan. It will simplify my day tomorrow. Update. Used your cut and remove technique. I tried not to alter that plastic wire support but there is no way to get that back fastener. So I cut it out. Easy after that. Problem solved. Cleared the codes. Drove it, rechecked it with the Autel 908 BT… no codes. Thanks man.
Great video, brother, I just watched it a day late! I had to change the actuator on my 2011 Taurus, which except for the shelf in the glove box, is almost the exact same setup. Actuator is in the same place, that damn plastic piece is in the way just the same, everything except for a smaller space to work in. And it was a nightmare, as I didn't cut the plastic out of the way. (Was afraid of cutting any wiring, which I thought ran perhaps inside of a channel on the plastic. So yeah, a nightmare to get in and out. One thing I did differently is when hooking the new actuator up to spin the gear to the right position, I actually unplugged the one that is easy to get to. (Located at the front part of the glove box, facing the hole) It's the exact same part, and is the fresh air door actuator. It was way simpler to get to. Apparently it's a fairly common problem on that generation of Ford vehicles, and the one in my car had been previously changed as well. I know for sure if I've gotta do it again, I'll be cutting the plastic out of the way. Anyway, great video, thank you, and cheers!!
If someone is suffering from (the AC vent mode) is not functioning although he/she selects different mode on the screen, then this video is not for this case. This video is related to replacement of (the temperature blend door actuator) which is only responsible for controlling the AC temperature in the passenger's side. There is a similar temperature blend door actuator in the driver's side.
One item the manual adds is to disconnect the air bags by disconnecting the neutral wire on the battery before doing any work in this area... It would be a hell of a bad day if the airbag deployed with your head and body crammed into that confined space!
@@theman9764 Yes! The negative terminal. Good catch. BTW, I took your advice and cut the plastic cover away. What a difference! I got the part replaced last night and took it for a test ride. Finally have heat on the passenger side after a two year hiatus!
I don't have the clicking noise but my air is only coming out the front vents no floor or defrost. I have a 2015 Taurus SEL model. I see the motors behind glove box and to the left on the side which looks very hard to get out. The one under driver side to the right of gas pedal, which was another one hard to reach but I got to it. How many other motors are there? The one you removed I see, but didn't remove myself... I might have to try that one huh. Not thrilled about cutting pieces... but like you said it doesn't seem like a critical piece that you cut out to access the back bolt. I need a tool that swivels like yours though. Thanks might do this next weekend and save myself some money.
Since there didn't appear to be anything behind it, could you have cut the plastic right at the corner of the right angle bend to gain greater access to that actuator? UPDATE: In my 2017 Explorer Sport, the actuator came out with minimal difficulty. That plastic is very soft and easily cut with an X-Acto knife. If you're very careful, you could cut the plastic right at the corner. However, the plastic forms a box shape at the corner so there's that much more plastic to cut. Some of the wires are very small gauge, so you should probably protect them when cutting. I was able to use a standard 5/16" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet with a very small magnet in the socket to capture the inner most screw. Remove the large gear from the old actuator and use it to align the blend door splines before insertion. Also, both the blend door and vent actuators were the same p/n, AA53-19E616-C (YH1779).
I probably should have watched the video the whole way through. Took a bit of time to get the splines to match up. But my 8 year old boy learned quite a few words that he better not repeat any time soon and he had a blast laughing at me lol
I had to laugh at that one. I replace this 'thing' in my 2013 and I bet we used some of the same expressions of extreme frustration with that box of cheap gears.
Hello, I’m having a problem on my 2015 explorer where I can’t switch from the floor vent to the center vents. (Air will not come out of my center vents). Would I need to replace this actuator or the one behind the instrument cluster on the driver side?
I would probably guess this one since it controls which vents are being used, but I'm not sure what functions the other actuator controls that you are referring to
Would the acutator that you replaced also cause the passeger dide vents on a dual zone system to not blow the correct air temp?. I have a 2014 also and with the heat on the vents on the passenger side just blow cold air.
I'm not sure if it would be this exact actuator, but there's a good chance that it is definitely one of the actuators failing, kinda difficult to diagnose without actually looking at the vehicle
@@ricks3313 so is that vent door actuator in a different position than the actuator in this video?? my 2014 explorer only blows out hot air on the passenger side, even with the A/C on.
Which actuator would it be on a 2013 Ford F-150 if it doesn't circulate the air? It's stuck on the air coming from the outside vs recirculating the inside air. So it's difficult for the A/C to get cold
I personally couldn't tell you which one is failing, you almost have to cycle through all the functions and see which actuators are working or not working just by placing your fingers on them and feeling for operation
@@theman9764 I've already replaced the blower motor fan itself & the blower resistor ... all on the passenger side .... but the speed does not change & it does not get as cold as it used to. I had that round rubber piece that had broken off the actuator I guess ... it was laying inside the blower fan. Does this help your diagnosis?
@@chrisb7353 without being at the actual vehicle it's very difficult to diagnose issues like that since it could be a number of things like the control head or a pcm problem or just bad wiring
Have you done the driver side the one behind the cluster? Just to let you knoe you are the man dan the man.i did my 11 explorer limited just like in this vid. Thanks dan the man
I have a 2015 Ford Explorer limited and the vent is stuck on the face. Do you know which actuator needs to be replaced and what the part number would be?
So I just replaced mine last night thanks for your video but I still don’t have floor or defrost. Took it all back apart and the actuator works but not working
I cut the piece out too. Used a 1/4 inch extension with a universal socket. There are clips at the bottom for the glove box. I didn't reinstall them. Not needed.
Question, is it me or does it seem that after 2010 all cars somehow were able to build with Intent of keeping owners from working on their car. It's disgusting. Getting to the simple FUSE box in the car is ridiculous. I mean it seems pretty much intentional with Ford, talking to others they say similar with other makes. It's that illegal? I mean, isn't there a (out of many) TAX paid monitoring sector that prevents Car Makers from designing with the intent to prevent owners from working on their own personal belongings?
I strongly believe that most vehicles these days are designed for intentional failure, I'm pretty sure Ford is guilty of using plastic oil pans and plastic drain plugs, I'm sure there's other manufacturers that do it also, plus everything under the hood is plastic, it's crazy how cheaply cars are made and how expensive they've become, I'll stick with my old sh1tboxes that are reliable and easy to maintain
@@theman9764yes sir even the $150,000 kenworths that i work on have a plastic pan and drain plug. And the drain plug has to be changed at every oil change. The oil filter housings and caps as well as the fuel filter housings are all plastic as well.
I thought that the actuator for the vent selection was located on the driver's side? you have to actually remove the instrument panel to get to that one and it is a royal pain in the A**.
@@theman9764 Thank you for the reply, I'm actually having the same issue so I need to find out the name or part number of the unit you changed out since there are two or three actuators in the car that I know of.
So I'm confused. Thought this was just the blend door to switch from hot to cold. Thought the vent selector actuator was behind cluster. Mine is stuck on dash vents right now.
Why can't u just remove the entire cover. Seems like it'd make it even easier if the entire thing was gone, especially for unplugging the electrical connector
Because if i remember correctly, the piece i cut out is part of the entire hvac box, which would take hrs to remove, or take 2 min and cut that piece out
![KSI - Dirty [Official Visualiser]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoDh1h1dPUE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you, you made it possible for me to make this repair. i am 72 so anyone should be able to do this with your instructions. i really appreciate you putting this video up.
Your video has helped me alot. I ended losing the top screw, but it hasnt seemed to cause issues.
I did have trouble getting it aligned to re'insert the actuator. I turned on the vehicle, slowly changed the temp, and pushed the back of the actuator. When it aligned, it slid right in. Good as gold!
Thanks!
Brother you video was the most detailed for my issue on Ford Explorer 2015 Limited. ISSUE: Hot air on left , cold air not changing on right. I spent the most time messing with getting the Glove back on with the bottom TABS. ADVISE for others watching / reading, take off the bottom piece underneath the Glove. 4 Screws long dense threaded / 2 each side. It helps to reach the white tabs that you have to align and push in . I did end up trying to cut/breaking off the non-sense plastic shield, worked out. I recommend , cutting tape as per video then just breaking off the black plastic housing.
Thanks for sharing.
I’m 2 hours into it. With major struggles. But took some of this advice. Now I’m gonna get it.
Many thanks
I can't think you enough for getting me through this. I had already had my shop replaced this just a couple years ago but I bought a cheap part. This time I got a little higher quality part and your wobble bit was a lifesaver.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing this video, I replaced the same actuator on my 2013 Explorer, and I could not have done it myself without this video
We have a 2013 and it went out again
Great tip for performing surgery on that plastic cover. I'm too familiar with that darn actuator module. You can tell it was designed to be almost impossible to reach .. except during assembly at the factory! If I have to go back into it, I'll be cutting that cover for sure! You never see it anyway. Thanks Dan the Man!
This is the best video of all for this fix. Nice Job. I have the part ordered. In our case it was the silent failure in our 2015 Explorer. That being no clicking. We have cold A/C on the left side and hot air coming from the right side. This failure was acute and noiseless. I put my Autel MS908 BT on it and it shows an HVAC Fault "mechanical failure of the right blend door actuator". Apparently our failure is somewhat common. The actuator looses it's position sensing ability due to the small size of the signaling wipers on the inside. Ford Tech Makuloco has a video up where he dissects one pointing out the weakness. These failures are common. Thanks for the good video on this Dan. It will simplify my day tomorrow.
Update. Used your cut and remove technique. I tried not to alter that plastic wire support but there is no way to get that back fastener. So I cut it out. Easy after that. Problem solved. Cleared the codes. Drove it, rechecked it with the Autel 908 BT… no codes. Thanks man.
Is yours a dual zone? Getting ready to do the same job on my 2015. An older comment mentioned it’s on the other side for the dual zone ac
Thanks for the video. Much appreciated. Cutting that piece of plastic made the job so much easier.
Great video, brother, I just watched it a day late! I had to change the actuator on my 2011 Taurus, which except for the shelf in the glove box, is almost the exact same setup. Actuator is in the same place, that damn plastic piece is in the way just the same, everything except for a smaller space to work in. And it was a nightmare, as I didn't cut the plastic out of the way. (Was afraid of cutting any wiring, which I thought ran perhaps inside of a channel on the plastic. So yeah, a nightmare to get in and out. One thing I did differently is when hooking the new actuator up to spin the gear to the right position, I actually unplugged the one that is easy to get to. (Located at the front part of the glove box, facing the hole) It's the exact same part, and is the fresh air door actuator. It was way simpler to get to.
Apparently it's a fairly common problem on that generation of Ford vehicles, and the one in my car had been previously changed as well. I know for sure if I've gotta do it again, I'll be cutting the plastic out of the way.
Anyway, great video, thank you, and cheers!!
Just double triple check that there's no harness behind it
If someone is suffering from (the AC vent mode) is not functioning although he/she selects different mode on the screen, then this video is not for this case.
This video is related to replacement of (the temperature blend door actuator) which is only responsible for controlling the AC temperature in the passenger's side. There is a similar temperature blend door actuator in the driver's side.
Ford engineers sure made sure to not get to that back screw too easily.
@@sjm8510 for years Ford engineers have made some very questionable designs
I've done it both ways...with the plastic cover still on and with it gone. it makes a WORLD of difference by taking the plastic cover off! Trust me.
One item the manual adds is to disconnect the air bags by disconnecting the neutral wire on the battery before doing any work in this area... It would be a hell of a bad day if the airbag deployed with your head and body crammed into that confined space!
You are very correct, but i think you meant the negative side of the battery, not neutral
@@theman9764 Yes! The negative terminal. Good catch. BTW, I took your advice and cut the plastic cover away. What a difference! I got the part replaced last night and took it for a test ride. Finally have heat on the passenger side after a two year hiatus!
@@brucethede9154 excellent! Glad you got it going! Have a blessed day!
I don't have the clicking noise but my air is only coming out the front vents no floor or defrost. I have a 2015 Taurus SEL model.
I see the motors behind glove box and to the left on the side which looks very hard to get out. The one under driver side to the right of gas pedal, which was another one hard to reach but I got to it.
How many other motors are there? The one you removed I see, but didn't remove myself... I might have to try that one huh. Not thrilled about cutting pieces... but like you said it doesn't seem like a critical piece that you cut out to access the back bolt. I need a tool that swivels like yours though.
Thanks might do this next weekend and save myself some money.
Awesome video you make everything look so easy
On a dual zone 2014 explorer the mode actuator is on the driver's side and that's the temp door actuator for the passenger side
Excactly right!
Is that the same for a 2015?
Where is it on the driver's side?
"I'll show you. I've already done it." Thanks dude. That helped.😐 Now let me go figure out how to lineup the gear.
Honestly it's fairly easy, plug in the actuator and operate it, once it's rotated where you need it unplug it and then install
Since there didn't appear to be anything behind it, could you have cut the plastic right at the corner of the right angle bend to gain greater access to that actuator?
UPDATE: In my 2017 Explorer Sport, the actuator came out with minimal difficulty. That plastic is very soft and easily cut with an X-Acto knife. If you're very careful, you could cut the plastic right at the corner. However, the plastic forms a box shape at the corner so there's that much more plastic to cut. Some of the wires are very small gauge, so you should probably protect them when cutting. I was able to use a standard 5/16" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet with a very small magnet in the socket to capture the inner most screw. Remove the large gear from the old actuator and use it to align the blend door splines before insertion. Also, both the blend door and vent actuators were the same p/n, AA53-19E616-C (YH1779).
Im going to have to do this soon. What is the black plastic thing you trimmed the side off of for?
If i remember correctly, i believe it's just a cover that doesn't really serve any important purpose
Thanks thanks, regards from Chile
Very helpful DIY video. Thanks!
I probably should have watched the video the whole way through. Took a bit of time to get the splines to match up. But my 8 year old boy learned quite a few words that he better not repeat any time soon and he had a blast laughing at me lol
Those are the best times!
I had to laugh at that one. I replace this 'thing' in my 2013 and I bet we used some of the same expressions of extreme frustration with that box of cheap gears.
Mine is back to clicking already 🤬
@@michaeldouglas8735 bummer
How did you get the splines to line up. Im fighting that right now.
Hello, I’m having a problem on my 2015 explorer where I can’t switch from the floor vent to the center vents. (Air will not come out of my center vents). Would I need to replace this actuator or the one behind the instrument cluster on the driver side?
I would probably guess this one since it controls which vents are being used, but I'm not sure what functions the other actuator controls that you are referring to
Good video thanks for your time to do the video
Getting that back screw in without cutting the black thing was carzy. Good to know.
Would the acutator that you replaced also cause the passeger dide vents on a dual zone system to not blow the correct air temp?. I have a 2014 also and with the heat on the vents on the passenger side just blow cold air.
I'm not sure if it would be this exact actuator, but there's a good chance that it is definitely one of the actuators failing, kinda difficult to diagnose without actually looking at the vehicle
@@theman9764 i just assumed that since the problem was confined to only one side this would be the problem. Thanks for the reply.
@Greg Peters yes it was the vent door actuator on the passeneger side. It was sort of a bear to get to.
Mine blowing only to defrost and blowing hot air only AC is not working.
@@ricks3313 so is that vent door actuator in a different position than the actuator in this video?? my 2014 explorer only blows out hot air on the passenger side, even with the A/C on.
Which actuator would it be on a 2013 Ford F-150 if it doesn't circulate the air? It's stuck on the air coming from the outside vs recirculating the inside air. So it's difficult for the A/C to get cold
I personally couldn't tell you which one is failing, you almost have to cycle through all the functions and see which actuators are working or not working just by placing your fingers on them and feeling for operation
@@theman9764 I've already replaced the blower motor fan itself & the blower resistor ... all on the passenger side .... but the speed does not change & it does not get as cold as it used to. I had that round rubber piece that had broken off the actuator I guess ... it was laying inside the blower fan. Does this help your diagnosis?
@@chrisb7353 without being at the actual vehicle it's very difficult to diagnose issues like that since it could be a number of things like the control head or a pcm problem or just bad wiring
God Bless you! Helped so much.
Have you done the driver side the one behind the cluster? Just to let you knoe you are the man dan the man.i did my 11 explorer limited just like in this vid. Thanks dan the man
Haven't done that one......yet, I'm sure I'll get to replace one before too long
I have a 2015 Ford Explorer limited and the vent is stuck on the face. Do you know which actuator needs to be replaced and what the part number would be?
So I just replaced mine last night thanks for your video but I still don’t have floor or defrost. Took it all back apart and the actuator works but not working
There's a slight chance the splines on the actuator are not clocked in the correct orientation or the actual blend door is just broken
I cut the piece out too. Used a 1/4 inch extension with a universal socket. There are clips at the bottom for the glove box. I didn't reinstall them. Not needed.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Question, is it me or does it seem that after 2010 all cars somehow were able to build with Intent of keeping owners from working on their car. It's disgusting. Getting to the simple FUSE box in the car is ridiculous. I mean it seems pretty much intentional with Ford, talking to others they say similar with other makes. It's that illegal? I mean, isn't there a (out of many) TAX paid monitoring sector that prevents Car Makers from designing with the intent to prevent owners from working on their own personal belongings?
I strongly believe that most vehicles these days are designed for intentional failure, I'm pretty sure Ford is guilty of using plastic oil pans and plastic drain plugs, I'm sure there's other manufacturers that do it also, plus everything under the hood is plastic, it's crazy how cheaply cars are made and how expensive they've become, I'll stick with my old sh1tboxes that are reliable and easy to maintain
@@theman9764yes sir even the $150,000 kenworths that i work on have a plastic pan and drain plug. And the drain plug has to be changed at every oil change. The oil filter housings and caps as well as the fuel filter housings are all plastic as well.
Mine air blowing only to the Defrosr
and AC not working aswell can anyone please explain what is the problem
I thought that the actuator for the vent selection was located on the driver's side? you have to actually remove the instrument panel to get to that one and it is a royal pain in the A**.
I don't remember which function it was for
We had this out once and replaced it now again and cannot get it out :( 😢
Hello I have a 2016 escape. is it the same area?
Not sure, haven't messed with one of those, but most of the time the actuators are generally in the same area for most vehicles
What part number did you use? (604-255, 234, or 228)
I'm not sure what it was, my customer supplied their part
@@theman9764 Thank you for the reply, I'm actually having the same issue so I need to find out the name or part number of the unit you changed out since there are two or three actuators in the car that I know of.
@@omnifedelis I'll try to find out, i know it was from Oreillys
@@omnifedelis ok, the part number i used was Dorman 604-234
@@theman9764 Awesome!!! Thank you for the help and great video showing how to install the part!
What did you use to get to that back screw on the actuator
I show what i used in the video
8 mm wobble bit was the only way I was able to get this done
So I'm confused. Thought this was just the blend door to switch from hot to cold. Thought the vent selector actuator was behind cluster. Mine is stuck on dash vents right now.
Do you have dual zone? If so, your blend door actuator will be on the driver side in a similar location.
Yesterday I did the same job but you do not need to cut the plastic part
But it makes it soooo much easier and that plastic flap serves almost no purpose
What’s the part number?
Not sure man, the customer bought the part and i just replaced it, i know she got it at O'Reilly auto parts
Why can't u just remove the entire cover. Seems like it'd make it even easier if the entire thing was gone, especially for unplugging the electrical connector
Because if i remember correctly, the piece i cut out is part of the entire hvac box, which would take hrs to remove, or take 2 min and cut that piece out
Great idea cutting out that piece. Ford engineers not the smartest 👎🏽👎🏽👎🏽