Bouldering Progression Series - Intermediate I | V4, V5-
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2024
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This third video will cover the skills needed to climb V4s and soft V5s. We’re now entering the grade tier where technique, problem solving, and fitness are all very evenly balanced. Having a good blend of the three is crucial for maximizing your chances of sending. We’ll address the fitness component in a future video, and focus this one on:
Climbing Technique
Sequencing
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Intro: (0:00)
Climbing Technique - Foot Swaps: (0:56)
Step Through: (2:29)
Heel Hook: (3:12)
Timing Moves: (4:28)
Flagging: (6:31)
Sequencing: (8:11)
In Closing: (11:30)
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STUFF I USE AND RECOMMEND:
Climbing Gear
Best slipper shoe | 5.10 Moccasym | amzn.to/2WyWtNN
Great moderate shoe | La Sportiva Katana | amzn.to/3619pPq
Performance aggressive shoes | La Sportiva Miura | amzn.to/2Z5fQQf
High quality chalk | Frictionlabs Unicorn Dust 10oz | amzn.to/3dSvP8t
Crag pack (doubles as soft pad) | Black Diamond Pipe Dream 45 | amzn.to/3bxFiAg
Quick draws | Black Diamond Hotforge Quick Draws | amzn.to/2WvXN3V
Climbing rope | Black Diamond 9.9m Rope (70m) | amzn.to/2Lwb4D6
Belay gloves | Black Diamond belay gloves | amzn.to/2y3FNEF
Belay glasses (very useful for outdoors) | NiceClimbs Belay glasses | amzn.to/2yXYNVu
Belay device | Petzl Grigri | amzn.to/2WAhg3A
Harness | Black Diamond Momentum Harness | amzn.to/2T1xzEj
Hangboard | Beastmaker 2000 | amzn.to/3fQmvUh
Climbing/Outdoor Apparel
Most comfortable underwear | ExOfficio Give-N-Go Boxer Brief | amzn.to/2WxZL3K
Good outdoor pants | Prana Stretch Zion | amzn.to/2zGccBo
Warm puffy for cold season | Black Diamond Cold Forge Hoody | amzn.to/3cuf6b4
Great jacket for Spring/Fall | The North Face Ventrix | amzn.to/2z0v5Pz
Useful & Inspiring books
Movement based climbing training | Self Coached Climber | amzn.to/2UnSEJO
Great book on strength & conditioning | Becoming a Supple Leopard | amzn.to/3dJfhjy
Very informative training book | The Rock Climber's Training Manual | amzn.to/3f5aEk6
Awesome read to get you psyched for climbing | Revelations | amzn.to/3ha0Ffd
Recovery gadgets
Vibrating foam roller (legs, forearms, fingers) | Hyperice Vyper 2.0 | amzn.to/3dPEcSe
Massage gun (shoulders, chest, calves, forearms) | Hyperice Hypervolt | amzn.to/3h5l84B
Videography equipment
Microphone | Blue Yeti | amzn.to/2yXs6aJ
Best point & shoot camera + video recorder | Sony Cybershot RX100 7 | amzn.to/3fSG8ec
Good quality sturdy tripod | Slik U9000 tripod | amzn.to/2LuAJw6 
Хобби
Heck yeah. Time to quit my job and get past v5
😂😂💪🏻
Why are V6's SUCH a world apart from V5's? They crush me! 😂
@@remysealey4086 oh dear I think v3s are miles harder than v2 😂
Pro tip: just work at the climbing gym.
Follow your dream
Now i can finally crush my gym
I just got a where’s Waldo moment when I saw you commented.
Lol ej i did a thing can u make a video reference in youre video where you say the gumbies are qmong us
Wait a second i did a thing js a climber???wut wutt which is youre higes gradee
What are you doing here lol
go back to making things dude
just broke into v4 last month and I can already see my technique and fitness is improved a lot compared to when I plateaued at v2-3. I'm starting to work on some v5 and I rarely been as hype about climbing and getting better as right now!
How long had you been climbing before getting into those v4s?
@@sarahlorraine9398 I would say about a year
Hey man, if you can recall what helped you break through those V3 plateaus ?
@@petermozuraitis5219 Been climbing for half a year now and I had a period of being stuck on V3 for 2 months. I have a strong upper body so I basically brute forced my way up without much regard for technique. Just recently moved to V4's and for me it was all about body positioning and weight distribution (twisting hips, flagging properly etc.) to break the plateau. When I first tried them I was in such awkward positions that no amount of strength could keep me hanging on the wall on a V4 cause of the disadvantage of a shitty body position and thus wasting so much energy.
@@pekkatiitinen2660 what did you start on? I've been climbing for about 3 weeks, could do most v3s and 1 v4 on my first time but i'm not seeing any improvement after 3 weeks. Do you do some specific strenght training for bouldering?
He’s so right! The first time I used a heel hook, I felt so badass. And I didn’t even know it was called a step through, it just felt so natural to me doing it that way
Same.
Ahh yes this is what I’ve been waiting for, time to overcome my plateau lol
Loving this series, can't wait for a video aimed at V6+ climbers!
Same, Ive been around V6 and soft V7s for a while now. Ive only been bouldering for 1.5 year so my finger strength is lacking compared to the rest, hopefully I can offset that with better climbing technique.
@@RubinKlein25 same here, for me my finger strength is actually my strongest suit though, my biggest weakness is my endurance on long overhang routes. While my fingers wont let go, my arms will soon enough. So I compensate with rly fast climbing and good technique
I have been looking forward to this since the last one pre covid
Your flow and progression series have been insanely helpful! Can’t wait for the next one!
This series is incredibly useful and really well put together, awesome job!
I love the contrast of your calm narration but seeing you on video and getting a hint of your sassy personality.
man your channel provides so much value! Best climbing channel on youtube. Everything is explained so clearly, and with such great video quality. Sub earned.
Best Bouldering series on the net by far. Thanks, keep posting please.
so glad to see this series continue! Love your vids!
Yessssssss! Awesome video. Such amazingly helpful detail. I will be watching this video many more times and going back and watching the flagging video yet again. Keep up the great work. I look forward to future videos!
These videos are genuinely amazing. I've only recently started climbing but I can tell these are gonna help immeasurably!
love the face at 12:00 ... and the series of course! so well done thank you
At last!!!! Was really looking forward to this episode. Thanks so much for your videos!
Been waiting for this for months! can't wait to get through it
Thank you for making this series. These videos are excellent to watch and rewatch to reinforce good habits, and the v0 episode is a great primer for first time climbers
So many climbing channels out there, but yours is one of the most informative and educational
These videos are ridiculously well made, well done, and thanks a lot!
Your explanation is so good and your voice so calming, man! I was trying to recover from a heavy training yesterday. Now... must go back and try your advices! Subscribed! RESPECT!
This was so useful, especially the information about looking for clear checkpoints, thanks!
I've been waiting for this one! Exactly my current tier :)
Awesome! 1) you are 100% right when you heel hook for the first time you feel like a badass! And 2) I was so proud to also be able to identify the yellow holds in that last problem. Thank you!
Nice video! Thanks for continuing this series
You're amazing man. Keep up the good work!
Wonderful, especially since I've recently started hitting V4-V5 grades with consistency
I also broke into v4's and i couldnt have done it so quick if it wasnt for your videos. Thank you so much for these amazing tutorials!
Awesome video, I've been trying to find information on this range!
Yeeeeeeees, I've been waiting for this!
Really enjoyed that last section, really having to use your brain is my favorite part of climbing progression at the moment!
So many things I haven’t even spend a single thought on, great information!
i actually got 3/4 through my first v5 yesterday! thankyou for your videos your way of explaining is very no nonsense and helpful:)
Bro finally love this series
Always amazing content. Thanks!
I enjoyed the problem solving portion very much.
Been waiting for this.
Amazing
brand new to trying climbing (bouldering)....great videos...thanks for the content
Thank you so much for making this! I am currently injured but i cant wait to climb again to hit my first v4 since the pandemic!
Thank you for these tips!
Love your videos dude!
Such quality videos man
ive been so excited for v5 ever since they announced it 2 weeks ago, finally its out
I have been climbing 21 months. I am conditioned enough now to climb 3 to 4 days a week (not always a hard climb day). Just last week I climbed my first v6 (the gym I climb at grades pretty stiff) I'm more excited than ever about climbing and have set a personal goal of climbing a v7 before 2023.
you got this man🤘
Did you end up climbing the v7???
your videos have helped me so much
Broke into v4 today after watching the video, not only that, i actually got two v4 done in one session 😎 Thanks!!
Whoa that's so cool. I never thought about reverse engineering the climb...that's gonna be game changing thank you
Awesome video, i think i'm starting to reach the point where i can project a V4, the checkpointing tips for route reading was very interesting, will try to think about that next time i'm at the gym
love this video!!
Awesome series! As I am relatively short I just took a mindset that I have to get into dynos no matter what and started testing these movements and playing with it. Once you get a hang of it you will realise that there is really not much that can happen and also that they are incredibly fun when you send them.
Really looking forward to the next part which is where I am progressing right now :D
Dynos are the bomb! My favorite part of climbing, along with campusing 🙂
I'm just starting to think about v4's and this video was very well done. I never thought i would get past v2's tbh.
Love your work brother
Who else supports the nerd alert movement analysis?
It was my first time climbing today and I got to V3 with some degree of difficulty but I just couldn’t seem to even attempt a V4 hope to do it next time I go!!
Excellent
Great video and tips! Love your expression at 12:00 hehe. And that gym in Sac is dope, that's awesome you don't have to wear a mask. My gym in San Luis Obispo just reopened up a couple months ago but they make you wear a mask while climbing.
first time climbing today and done a v4 first try its so mad the difference in diffuculty
Amazing video as always ^_^ and I have to admit, your bouldering walls are a lot taller than the ones in my gym!
That was an awesome video and nicely visually represented, well done, thanks!
First time climbing earlier this week. Managed to climb V4 outdoors
Maaaannnn.....your body muscles are like twisted and shredded ropes!💪
ngl the first video of yours i watched i wasnt a fan... But now I've watched all the videos on your channel, I like how to the point you are. Providing I have no friends to boulder with everything I've learnt is from you and I cannot thank you enoguh :)
Cant wait for the next episode. Keep up the good job!
that’s crazy. i watched this video the day before i went climbing and sent my first v4-v5.
V4 here I come!
Thank you!!!!!!!!! For sharing!!!!!!
great videos
i climbed for the first time yesterday used a heel hook for one problem and felt like a pro climber.
I've been climbing for about 2 months and I've reached V3 but V4 is like a direct cutoff, there's so many routes where I basically struggle with the starter moves
Lol just went climbing for the first time and did a v4
@@Gniggaaa wow bro you’re just so much better than him we’re so impressed 🙄
@@Gniggaaa Imagine saying this in a youtube comment section. You are such a special highly regarded person.
@@natevanderw you are so ignorant you little silly boy twas just silly a comment go suck off you frog brain i bet you a no life loser
@@Gniggaaayou know sometimes, just sometimes in life, it's not always about you. Did you know that?
“First time using a heel hook makes you feel badass” lmao so true
Thank you for this!!! Been climbing for about 3 weeks before my state went into it's second lockdown, and I sent my first V4 a few days before close. Gonna use your home workout routine until gyms open back up, hopefully I can come back in better shape than before
nice one!
Really great video what kind of climbing pants are you wearing in this ?
cool. I vote for some toe hook coverage next !
These walls are MASSIVE!!
Brilliant
im used to doing a little hop when foot switching, maybe trying your method is better for me
Love the shoes. I just myself a pair of those not too long ago.
What shoes are those? Looking to buy my second pair and trying to get into V4's now. Thanks!
thanks for this! is there a fitness video specifically for v4/v5? or are yo referring to the general fitness videos on your channel? thanks!
Are you going to do a v7 guide? I’ve been projecting v7 for like a month and I always make it to the last move.(usually the crux)
I think that my gym must sandbag the heck out of the grades because stuff that you’re showing as V4 ish is graded V1 at my gym. A lot of people come climb there from out of state or from other gyms around here and think that they climb sometimes 4 full grades higher than what they’re graded at my gym. And this isn’t a problem necessarily, but it’s really hard to know where you stand grade wise when you don’t really have a concrete way to test that. Also, our setters say that their grading is in line with outdoor grades in order to really help the climbing team excel and not indicative of how most commercial gyms grade (more for entertainment purposes).
You are right and your gym is probably right. Step through and foot-swaps are part of the very first bouldering lesson for adults. Flags start to become relevant at V1-V2. I have not seen a V2 with a mandatory heel-hook but its easily a V3 move. I think the grades should be softer to make the scale linear. Otherwise the V3 plateau due to V4 being exponentially harder, hurts really bad...
@@gamotousername the grades are linear indeed. It's just that we find it harder to push ourselves more than we've ever done in the past.
If you're climbing V10's, you'll probably think V1-V8 feels linear to you.
It's all techniques i know and i'm generally decent at it, but some v4 are still so hard! I feel like i lack power on most of these :(
Rewatching bc the v4-6 problems are feeling stiffer to me after recovering from an injury, so I'm trying to see if there are any techers I'm forgetting about. But it might just be my reluctance to deadpoint and my reading being off 😅😅 oh well, time to downgrade what I'm projecting again and get back to slab projecting.
All these things are needed in the V3's(6a) and onward in my gym.. seems like the US grades very very soft...
It varies pretty significantly from gym to gym! In my experience, V3 is around the end of beginner climbing and the start of intermediate, when you start needing technique and precision. Up to V2 (some V3s, depending on the route style and the gym), most fairly athletic people can climb without a lot of climbing specific knowledge or skills
Hell yeah, perfect for me!! Sadly as a female climber who was not in shape before becoming a climber, I can do all of these pretty well and just lack the fitness...
Just keep working on it! Some of the best climbers in the world are female :)
@@fufumccuddlypoops5502 Damn right!
Heck yeah . Thank you
What a beast, so good that he has 0 dislikes out of 572 votes
Ok Bob Ross of climbing
I'm on the level much below...but want to check what will come next :)
i will watch this video 200 times
How high are these walls? they look like a good 5ft or so higher than the ones in uk
That cylindrical wall is so high and i barely can see holds to go down. Do people just jump from up there?
The foot swap works a lot better if you put pressure on the wall and roll down to the foothold
I’ve tried that and definitely helps but I feel like it would burn through your rubber quicker, especially outdoors
🐱👤 Thx for good explanations! 👍
In bouldering you also need mental strength. For these very high walls I would need a top-rope belay for safety. 😜
.
Jonnes __ our mats are very very soft 😊
@@movementforclimbers NO, you US guys are very brave and undestroyable. I thought only british and irish people are very tough people (do you know the Tourist Trophy at the Iles of Man?)... 😜
Is this pipeworks in sac?
I used to say I hated dynos until I started climbing V4+....but being short, there's a dyno in pretty much every route now
Someone said I did a v5 today but I think it was probably closer to 3-4 since it was crimpy and extremely technical with slippery asf holds
for trying to figure out hand sequences, a more subtle thing to do indoors is to look for thumb marks. They are good identifiers for knowing hand position, and which hand is being used.
Any other v1-V2 climbers watching in awe?