Love the format, would love the same with V8/V9! Also, next time you find yourself at Hochelaga on the spraywall, it would be awesome if you could put up some campus/paddles between V6-V9 (in normal grades, not the sandbagged grades of the board) if you have time! Im sure lots of people like myself would like to climb your boulders but are just not V11 climbers yet;) Anyways, keep up the videos they're getting better and better!
Ayyy LeCrux à Laval, this is legit the perfect video, Im currently stuck v3/v4 and seeing the explanation with boulders im familiar with helps a ton lol
I did my first V5 today, and it is because of this video! This helped me feel more comfortable spending time on the project, which was very helpful. It also gave me some helpful things to think about while I was climbing, like moving dynamically between holds to conserve energy. Now on to V6! Thanks Zach!
Nice one ! Really interesting hearing you try to pinpoint the tipping point between grades (though they are kinda subjective sometimes). Would be curious to see more videos like that, especially breaking from V6/V7 to V7/V8 !
This video is amazing. Really solidifies techniques and problems areas to focus on when transitioning into V5. This is where I'm at so this video couldn't be better timed.
Love the thorough analysis! I'm excited to see further videos for more advanced grades, specifically around V7/V8. I feel like I could probably project and send any V7 if I tried really hard and put an absurd amount of effort in the harder ones, but to me some V8s just look flat out impossible (even though I've done a lot of them and even a few V9s). It could very well be a matter of strength but definitely some technique issues as well. I'm sure a lot of people relate to this on many different levels. I'll keep an eye open for the upcoming uploads for sure!
Thanks a lot Zach. Your videos are getting better and better everytime they are uploaded. We love these kind of lessons/ tutorial to improve our techniques and of course having fun too. 🙌🏻
Z+M: I've always been a big fan of your channel since discovering it but you are really pushing the quality up and up. This was a really enjoyable watch thank you. I love seeing good climbers do climbs I might find tricky and having the commentary and explanations was hugely valuable. Looking forward to the next in this series.
This was great in really breaking down grade differences, and from there knowing what is needed to progress from one to the next. Of course, this V4/5 leap is exactly where I’m stuck too so it’s even more helpful. Thanks!
Zach you’re the goat fr the amount of information you give and how you talk about it from a setting side as well. So good can’t wait for the v6/7 video
Really great concept. As always, I appreciate the depth of the analysis! I am excited for more of these, if they are not too boring for y'all to make 😊
This is a great start to the series. Maybe a suggestion would be to do a similar video on the kilter board for a more standardised setup, like 'how to climb Jimmy Webb kilter v3,4,5,6,7,8' or similar.
Terrific channel. Enjoy you climbing the top level stuff but you have really hit a needed target with this instructional vid on these lower and more popular grades. Please continue with the instructional format. Thanks.
I'd love a training plan guide. There are already so many parts of how to do it in the comp climbing series, but one compact video with everything would be really good.
Love this style of video! Cool to see the new ideas play out, if you make this a bit of a series it would be cool to see how the grades stack up. Also it would be cool to see videos around training tools like board or spray wall using videos
10/10 the video I needed to see, trying to climb 6B+ and beyond right now 😊 will try the mini slopper-foothold tip into one routes I have been falling of for the past two weeks.
I wish I could try these boulders! They look super within my comfort zone, even though in my local gyms, I'm nowhere near comfortable on the "equivalent" grades. For example, a 7a local boulder would be near my max, but these V5's look very comfy. I guess the grade conversions are imperfect, and I'm watching an exceedingly strong climber do the boulders, but I wish I could find out for myself 🙃 Love the format, great content!
Just found your channel after seeing you guys in Hannah Morris's latest video! Great content 🙌- you have a real skills at explaining this stuff (as i noticed when you were coaching Sam in the creators comp! ☺️). I'm still very much a newbie, but I'm starting to encounter some of the features you describe here (increased need to use core and body tension, fewer - or crappier - footholds, more sophisticated coordination) on boulders my gym would grade at something like 6a+/6b (my wall uses its own system of levels, but each one maps across roughly to a particular Font grade range). I tend to think of myself as kind of a V2/3 climber, but I'm starting to project slightly harder stuff, or at least have a go at some of the moves on more difficult climbs. Then again, I live in Sheffield 🤷🏻 and I've mostly climbed in independent gyms owned, run and set by people into outdoor bouldering. I was chatting to another climber who'd recently moved to my area and he talked about 'Sheffield sandbagging' as a real phenomenon. 😅 Maybe, maybe not; who knows? I just climb whatever looks interesting. 😁 And your insights are hugely valuable regardless. Definitely going to go through your back catalog and watch some more. 👍
Oh that’s great to hear!! :) Yes haha we weren’t there for very long but I did notice the grades V4 & below feeling harder than usual! Nice that’s awesome hope you find some interesting stuff 😎
nice insight for me was the one with the static bubble thing and the orientation of the holds thing. sometimes i am forgeting some hold and making the boulder harder, so was thinking, just for the analisys if you can skip a certain hold and break down the difference with-without that hold. at our gym we are constantly playing with this:)
Love the format. I'm currently at my V5 plateau phase, where V4 are almost a send but V5 requires way more thinking going into it. Also trying by myself is frustrating because I don't see the beta right away and I have to fight it to be able to understand what is asked of me in terms of movement. For sure when someone else is showing me the moves, it's way easier and I can send it 50% of the time depending of the type of V5 . Crimps require way more finger strength on V5 than unlocking a body movement such as you explained in the video and I really think that's why there is a plateau at this level. Finger strength is now becoming a limiting factor. But could be also because I'm bad ahahahah!
Not sure whether it'd be feasible for you to do this but what I'd love to see is a video which starts with say, a V4 problem after which a series of changes (holds taken out / replaced), each change bumping up the difficulty a V grade up to say, V9. I imagine it would be a bit of work but would be a really fun video to watch I reckon.
V5 is 6c in Europe... looking quite soft grading in the gyms you are compared to the ones I am used to. Thanks for the video. It's nice focusing on routes/ having a closer look.
@@felixbaker8709 didn't think of that but you are right :D I am more thinking of the so called plateau of V5 v6 and how it compares to my current plateau of 7a. I wonder if it's the same thing , if v5s are that easy looking.
I often climb at a gym where Zach also trains when he's in Germany. At our gym people grade the boulders on an App (TopLogger) and the grades here are super sandbagged 😂 V4 (6B/+) would be something like shouldery rose move on crimps on overhang 😅
It is my opinion that his unbelievable skill is making these look way lower grade than they are. Just like people in my gym. Some make an extremely powerful boulder into a walk in the park.
Hey Zach maybe a future idea would be to do the easier grade climbs with an hinderance like a weighted vest, or only your left foot, vice visa. Reasoning being it would hinder your amazing V13 strength to only the strength of a v5 climber or the v grade of the video. Reason why I recommend that because it is very easy for you to just grab any hold on a v5 climb and do any type of move while an average v5 climber can just hardly do anything on the same hold which would force you to tackle the boulder as if you only have a certain level of strength.
I’d love to see a breakdown of "Girls of Juarez" (V4) in Hueco and "Blue Suede Shoes" (V5) in Yosemite, especially since climbing grades typically focus on physical difficulty.
Your v4s look like v2-3s in my gym. In my gym the v4s start to play with unstable positions but still not bad. Currently I'm finding it difficult to read/find positions on many v5s and those are often climbs that push my strength limits. Looking forward to the progression of this series for more tips.
I think all that makes the 4:00 one a V5 is the finger strength required. If the holds were a little better my gym would be grading it a 2+ max. We currently have a 2+ that requires a lot of commitment, it looks like a casual climb until you're up there having to jump to each next hold, so I wouldnt say that you're doing static climbs up until V5. Atleast not at every gym.
V5/V6 is the biggest thing for me. I’m training pistol squats, isolated forearm and bicep workouts, and also core works out on my off days. I’d like to know more that I can do!
I would like something that compares the different grading between Europe, Japan and NA. Everything in Europe and Japan seems super sandbagged while many people in US keep posting stuff like "oh I just did a v8" yet it looks like a v5 in another gym
Our gym doesn't even have v-grading of bouldering routes. Only color coding: yellow -> green -> blue -> red -> orange (never looked further) Still the advices are great.
I’m trying to send my first v4 and having a heck of a time. I’m finding a lot of committing moves are shaking my confidence and it’s frustrating. I’m flashing all v3s so I know it’s only a matter of time. Thanks for the analysis video.
After you do 6/7 --- 8/9 and 10/11, will you do 0-1-2-3 together in a short, keypoints-focused, format? While I'm certain most if not all of your _current_ audience climbs above these grades, I feel it would nicely complement the series, for a possible wider audience aka (non-athletic/movement-based sport) people new to climbing who we could recommend these videos to! Imho, the lower the grade, the most difference you feel in what the setters try to teach. Let's say V0 - placing feet. V1 - handholds at different angles. V2 - smaller holds, either feet or hands and smaller boxes. V3 - starting to use heels and toes, incorporating dynamism. You get the jist. Each of these are massive things to incorporate as a beginner. Unrelated question: have you considered doing these in voice-over mode? Not that I'd personally prefer it, I'm just curious. Both have their (dis)advantages. If so, why did you chose to do it vlog-style in the end? Cheers mate!
Yep we’ll probably do the lower grades too! And I’ll definitely be referring back to this list for some inspiration ;) This video was kind of a vlog/tutorial hybrid but going forward with the tutorial videos I do plan on doing them in a voiceover style 👍
the V4's and also V5's look a lot easier when watching the video than when trying them in my gym haha
Love the format, would love the same with V8/V9! Also, next time you find yourself at Hochelaga on the spraywall, it would be awesome if you could put up some campus/paddles between V6-V9 (in normal grades, not the sandbagged grades of the board) if you have time! Im sure lots of people like myself would like to climb your boulders but are just not V11 climbers yet;) Anyways, keep up the videos they're getting better and better!
Haha ok I’ll do my best to remember the next time I’m at hoch 💪
@@richardsonsclimbing Same with Chabanel actually!
This was such a great video! Thanks, Zach!
I vote for more V4/V5 content for blokes like me, please :)
Same here, I've only sent a handful of V5's and for me its smaller holds on steeper walls that hold me back.
Man these videos are getting really good Zach! I enjoyed watching this! V6/V7 next??
Yes!!!
Ayyy LeCrux à Laval, this is legit the perfect video, Im currently stuck v3/v4 and seeing the explanation with boulders im familiar with helps a ton lol
This is high quality climbing RUclips content right here. Sending this to all my plateauing friends!
😎🔥
I did my first V5 today, and it is because of this video! This helped me feel more comfortable spending time on the project, which was very helpful. It also gave me some helpful things to think about while I was climbing, like moving dynamically between holds to conserve energy. Now on to V6! Thanks Zach!
That’s so awesome to hear!! 🤩 Yes v6 next 🙌
Nice one ! Really interesting hearing you try to pinpoint the tipping point between grades (though they are kinda subjective sometimes).
Would be curious to see more videos like that, especially breaking from V6/V7 to V7/V8 !
Yep more grade breakdowns coming 👌
This video is amazing. Really solidifies techniques and problems areas to focus on when transitioning into V5. This is where I'm at so this video couldn't be better timed.
As someone that is just starting to get to this range, this is super helpful. Thanks so much for these! 🙏
Very cool to get some tips on more ‘common man’ climbing grades. Love it!
Love the thorough analysis! I'm excited to see further videos for more advanced grades, specifically around V7/V8. I feel like I could probably project and send any V7 if I tried really hard and put an absurd amount of effort in the harder ones, but to me some V8s just look flat out impossible (even though I've done a lot of them and even a few V9s). It could very well be a matter of strength but definitely some technique issues as well. I'm sure a lot of people relate to this on many different levels.
I'll keep an eye open for the upcoming uploads for sure!
Yes the v7/8/9 level is a super tricky transition- I’m excited to tackle that video ;)
Thanks a lot Zach. Your videos are getting better and better everytime they are uploaded. We love these kind of lessons/ tutorial to improve our techniques and of course having fun too. 🙌🏻
Loved the format and looking very much forward to the next video!!
OMG as soon as I was thinking I want Zach to upload alreadyy 😭, Time to watch!!
Very constructive analysis!! I hate to say this but I usually skip your shirtless video... really appreciated you keeping them on for this one😂
Z+M: I've always been a big fan of your channel since discovering it but you are really pushing the quality up and up. This was a really enjoyable watch thank you. I love seeing good climbers do climbs I might find tricky and having the commentary and explanations was hugely valuable. Looking forward to the next in this series.
🙏❤️
This was great in really breaking down grade differences, and from there knowing what is needed to progress from one to the next. Of course, this V4/5 leap is exactly where I’m stuck too so it’s even more helpful. Thanks!
Zach you’re the goat fr the amount of information you give and how you talk about it from a setting side as well. So good can’t wait for the v6/7 video
Ayyy thank you 🙏
Great video. Really well explained. Very useful and helpful considering that this is exactly the level I'm at with my climbing.
Thanks for this video! Great for people like me who are climbing at this level currently. Would love to see the teased V5-V6 next :D
The small foothold advice was great!
Love this video man! I’m starting climbing v5 and I learned a ton! I can’t wait for the next one Zach! Cheers
Really great concept. As always, I appreciate the depth of the analysis! I am excited for more of these, if they are not too boring for y'all to make 😊
They are fun for sure!
I appreciate these vids! love the comp climbing stuff too. good luck with your future events!
This is a great start to the series. Maybe a suggestion would be to do a similar video on the kilter board for a more standardised setup, like 'how to climb Jimmy Webb kilter v3,4,5,6,7,8' or similar.
Very helpful explanation on how to use sloapy footholds better! Great format btw 💪
Your videos and advices are simply amazing, really !!
Terrific channel. Enjoy you climbing the top level stuff but you have really hit a needed target with this instructional vid on these lower and more popular grades. Please continue with the instructional format. Thanks.
I'd love a training plan guide. There are already so many parts of how to do it in the comp climbing series, but one compact video with everything would be really good.
Love this style of video! Cool to see the new ideas play out, if you make this a bit of a series it would be cool to see how the grades stack up.
Also it would be cool to see videos around training tools like board or spray wall using videos
10/10 the video I needed to see, trying to climb 6B+ and beyond right now 😊
will try the mini slopper-foothold tip into one routes I have been falling of for the past two weeks.
This is my skill level! I like the tip of holding tension all the way through i definitely agree
Excellent video! V6/V7 would also be cool!
I've started to do one V6 in the gym now every once in a while so looking forward to the video about going from v5-V6.
I wish I could try these boulders! They look super within my comfort zone, even though in my local gyms, I'm nowhere near comfortable on the "equivalent" grades. For example, a 7a local boulder would be near my max, but these V5's look very comfy. I guess the grade conversions are imperfect, and I'm watching an exceedingly strong climber do the boulders, but I wish I could find out for myself 🙃
Love the format, great content!
I feel like there’s a lot of v5 content these days which is amazing because that’s me 😊
Just found your channel after seeing you guys in Hannah Morris's latest video! Great content 🙌- you have a real skills at explaining this stuff (as i noticed when you were coaching Sam in the creators comp! ☺️).
I'm still very much a newbie, but I'm starting to encounter some of the features you describe here (increased need to use core and body tension, fewer - or crappier - footholds, more sophisticated coordination) on boulders my gym would grade at something like 6a+/6b (my wall uses its own system of levels, but each one maps across roughly to a particular Font grade range). I tend to think of myself as kind of a V2/3 climber, but I'm starting to project slightly harder stuff, or at least have a go at some of the moves on more difficult climbs.
Then again, I live in Sheffield 🤷🏻 and I've mostly climbed in independent gyms owned, run and set by people into outdoor bouldering. I was chatting to another climber who'd recently moved to my area and he talked about 'Sheffield sandbagging' as a real phenomenon. 😅
Maybe, maybe not; who knows? I just climb whatever looks interesting. 😁
And your insights are hugely valuable regardless. Definitely going to go through your back catalog and watch some more. 👍
Oh that’s great to hear!! :)
Yes haha we weren’t there for very long but I did notice the grades V4 & below feeling harder than usual!
Nice that’s awesome hope you find some interesting stuff 😎
Nice! Do you plan on making a V6->V7 progression tips video at some point?
Absolutely!
@@richardsonsclimbing Sweet! I look forward to it.
nice insight for me was the one with the static bubble thing and the orientation of the holds thing. sometimes i am forgeting some hold and making the boulder harder, so was thinking, just for the analisys if you can skip a certain hold and break down the difference with-without that hold. at our gym we are constantly playing with this:)
Very nice video!
Love the format. I'm currently at my V5 plateau phase, where V4 are almost a send but V5 requires way more thinking going into it. Also trying by myself is frustrating because I don't see the beta right away and I have to fight it to be able to understand what is asked of me in terms of movement. For sure when someone else is showing me the moves, it's way easier and I can send it 50% of the time depending of the type of V5 . Crimps require way more finger strength on V5 than unlocking a body movement such as you explained in the video and I really think that's why there is a plateau at this level. Finger strength is now becoming a limiting factor. But could be also because I'm bad ahahahah!
New camera looking great :)
loved this one!
Not sure whether it'd be feasible for you to do this but what I'd love to see is a video which starts with say, a V4 problem after which a series of changes (holds taken out / replaced), each change bumping up the difficulty a V grade up to say, V9. I imagine it would be a bit of work but would be a really fun video to watch I reckon.
More of this type of video pls :D
V5 is 6c in Europe... looking quite soft grading in the gyms you are compared to the ones I am used to.
Thanks for the video. It's nice focusing on routes/ having a closer look.
V1 in my gym 🤣 But yeah I was thinking the same thing.
@@felixbaker8709 didn't think of that but you are right :D I am more thinking of the so called plateau of V5 v6 and how it compares to my current plateau of 7a. I wonder if it's the same thing , if v5s are that easy looking.
I often climb at a gym where Zach also trains when he's in Germany. At our gym people grade the boulders on an App (TopLogger) and the grades here are super sandbagged 😂 V4 (6B/+) would be something like shouldery rose move on crimps on overhang 😅
It is my opinion that his unbelievable skill is making these look way lower grade than they are. Just like people in my gym. Some make an extremely powerful boulder into a walk in the park.
@@stellar9553 I know that, so I just try to look at the holds + wall angle + movements to guess the difficulty of those climbs ^^
Appreciate this vid. V5-V6 vid soon pls will me and lots of ppl in their plateaus 😂
Sometimes I feel like gyms just flip a hold upside down and call it a day to increase the difficulty a grade haha
Hey Zach maybe a future idea would be to do the easier grade climbs with an hinderance like a weighted vest, or only your left foot, vice visa. Reasoning being it would hinder your amazing V13 strength to only the strength of a v5 climber or the v grade of the video. Reason why I recommend that because it is very easy for you to just grab any hold on a v5 climb and do any type of move while an average v5 climber can just hardly do anything on the same hold which would force you to tackle the boulder as if you only have a certain level of strength.
That’s a good point, and I think it would be super interesting! Good recommendation I’ll remember to try this 👌
Fantastic！！！Many thanks!
Great Video, thx
I’d love to see a breakdown of "Girls of Juarez" (V4) in Hueco and "Blue Suede Shoes" (V5) in Yosemite, especially since climbing grades typically focus on physical difficulty.
Would love to see a V16/V17 analysis for when I hop on Burden of dreams one day!
Your v4s look like v2-3s in my gym. In my gym the v4s start to play with unstable positions but still not bad. Currently I'm finding it difficult to read/find positions on many v5s and those are often climbs that push my strength limits. Looking forward to the progression of this series for more tips.
I think all that makes the 4:00 one a V5 is the finger strength required. If the holds were a little better my gym would be grading it a 2+ max. We currently have a 2+ that requires a lot of commitment, it looks like a casual climb until you're up there having to jump to each next hold, so I wouldnt say that you're doing static climbs up until V5. Atleast not at every gym.
V5/V6 is the biggest thing for me. I’m training pistol squats, isolated forearm and bicep workouts, and also core works out on my off days. I’d like to know more that I can do!
cool stuff!! would you do a video on coordination dynos?
Yeah that’s a good idea!
I would like something that compares the different grading between Europe, Japan and NA. Everything in Europe and Japan seems super sandbagged while many people in US keep posting stuff like "oh I just did a v8" yet it looks like a v5 in another gym
Our gym doesn't even have v-grading of bouldering routes. Only color coding: yellow -> green -> blue -> red -> orange (never looked further) Still the advices are great.
that guessing grade would be a v2 in my gym
I’m trying to send my first v4 and having a heck of a time. I’m finding a lot of committing moves are shaking my confidence and it’s frustrating. I’m flashing all v3s so I know it’s only a matter of time. Thanks for the analysis video.
hahahah the ending is gold
I really like the format of these video's. I can't just reach a lot of hold on V2 climbs in my gym, are they just setting tall?
Thanks!
Maybe they are 😭
Hey, i was recently looking for some kneebar tutorials and tips, maybe thats a plan for a video??
Yeah we can try to fit that in a video for sure!
Thank you so much for this. How many v5s do you think you could do in a 2 hour session?
Haha maybe all of them in the gym!!
@@richardsonsclimbing so you don’t really get tired at this level?
This gym is huge, which location is it? i want to try it out
Le Crux Laval
After you do 6/7 --- 8/9 and 10/11, will you do 0-1-2-3 together in a short, keypoints-focused, format?
While I'm certain most if not all of your _current_ audience climbs above these grades, I feel it would nicely complement the series, for a possible wider audience aka (non-athletic/movement-based sport) people new to climbing who we could recommend these videos to!
Imho, the lower the grade, the most difference you feel in what the setters try to teach.
Let's say
V0 - placing feet.
V1 - handholds at different angles.
V2 - smaller holds, either feet or hands and smaller boxes.
V3 - starting to use heels and toes, incorporating dynamism.
You get the jist. Each of these are massive things to incorporate as a beginner.
Unrelated question: have you considered doing these in voice-over mode?
Not that I'd personally prefer it, I'm just curious. Both have their (dis)advantages.
If so, why did you chose to do it vlog-style in the end?
Cheers mate!
Yep we’ll probably do the lower grades too! And I’ll definitely be referring back to this list for some inspiration ;)
This video was kind of a vlog/tutorial hybrid but going forward with the tutorial videos I do plan on doing them in a voiceover style 👍
Good video. But the grades shown in this gym look a little soft. These climbs would be V2-V3 in my gym
Could you do a break down of each grade from 6-10?
Yep that’s the plan!
@@richardsonsclimbing yooooooo hype !
need a review of the normal flagship hahaah
begging for a smiliar video but for around V8 V9
That would be great!
That’s the plan 👍
Im trying to get my first v6, but it feels like a big jump from v5, do u have a video or tips?
Yeah check out our v6 video!
Is there already one on V6/7 by now?
Yep got it filmed and is coming soon!
@richardsonsclimbing amazing 🥰😍
V10-v11 next ?
Haha eventually!
As a female climber that’s only 5ft with a negative wingspan, I had to break out of static climbing at V1 already 😂
😂🥲
Is this the second rose bloc location?
It's Le Crux Laval
^
i thought so too, but i saw "Le Crux" logo at the end of the video!
tfw im stuck at V6/7 :(
My gym must be sand bagging pretty hard. All of these problems looked overly easy. Or maybe this gym is soft. Idk.