Vince! I just want to say thanks again for this series and how much I appreciate and respect that you keep putting these out for free in this time where more and more people seems to be putting all guides on patron behind a paywall.
Appreciated, I understand, artists are trying to make a living and I respect them for that. For me, this is a hobby and I love teaching and sharing, so my stuff will always be paywall free. :)
This technique has been floating around in my head recently for an Underworlds warband I’ve got to paint in a few weeks, it’s like RUclips can read my mind 😋 Cheers Vince! 👍🏼👍🏼
Great video Vince...you gotta love that silly putty, that's for sure. I use it a lot. So easy to use. I use it so much I buy it in 5 lb bricks and am on my second brick. Love the airbrush you were using as well. Oh and the ink is great as well. Thanks for sharing Vince...
Ever since you showed this method with the red ink for vibrant red without getting pink or orange (I don't remember which model it was), I've employed it MANY times in all sorts of colors and it has saved me countless hours. As always, thanks for dropping the knowledge Vince!
That was helpful. I want to do a 40k Rhino using inks so this helped out a lot. The finished model in the still photos looks great! Thanks for sharing this tutorial.
Hi Vince, Love your videos! Question: how much psi on the airbrush for such a thin paint? Also, since you airbrushed so close to the model i presume you barely “pumped” ink out, I tend to create a lot of spiderwebs sometimes. Ty
Still at 18 PSI and yes, I just barely touched both the air and the paint (the dual action nature of the airbrush is in effect here). You can always turn down the PSI if you don't have the precise trigger control. No issue at all. :)
Great video!! Having trouble with my Ghosties..... all of my minis actually. 😂 So glad I'm not the only one that does the "spooooky ghosts.. Ooooooooo" with the Nighthaunt models.
Do you often paint with the mini's glued to the bases before having the bases done? Just cut them off when it's time to attach them to a scenic base? Also this is exactly what I needed to help me speed paint some Daemonettes.
Almost never, but this was given by a friend who had already attached it, so in those rare cases, yes, I will just carefully clip when I am ready to put it on the real base. :)
Very late to the party I want to say thank you for this great video. Not least because now I know what the strange creatures I bought in a trade shop are 🤣
Hey Vince. Do you think there is any value in adding matte medium to your airbrush mix to thicken it up and make spider webbing a little easier to avoid? My W&N medium is super thick, it wouldn't take much of it to thicken the mix, and it may help with taking off the top end of the sheen as well. I airbrush Army Painter washes quite often, as a filter, and don't find them difficult to put through the airbrush undiluted; but then I am spraying at a much greater distance, often doing a reverse zenithal. Getting up close and personal with a much stronger ink scares me, I'd like to make it as easy as I can. If a thicker mix lets me get closer, then I'll happily use it.
Love your Hobby Cheating series. It has been super helpful in so many aspects. Thank you VERY much for your hard work. I had a question: I'm really looking into getting an airbrush, but I'm worried about the noise the air compressor makes. I'm living in an apartment and I don't want to be disruptive to the people I live with/other tenants in other units. Yours doesn't seem too loud and turns on and off which is great. How loud is it? It is much louder than an old window A/C unit? Thanks!
I love this! Would I be right in assuming that I could use this technique to give the ghosts a cold white look? If so are there any inks from FW I should get? Thankfully I already have the white. Thanks Vince! I think this might be just the trick I needed to get through my spooky backlog :)
Some of the off blue inks might be good, especially when mixed with the white. The tricky part is that it wouldn't glaze as well, so you will want to increase the white layer, then do some thin blues over.
thank you for the video. when i try to airbrush with super thin glazes/inks... i always get drops of the paint on the mini, it looks like i leave the mini in the rain :). i guess i am using to much air and paint with the airbrush? you are using very little of both?
thank forthe guide Vince, i keep forget, when we do with very very thin paint/ink like this,we should use more air or less air than normal base coat painting ?
I use the same PSI, I am just barely (and I mean barely) pulling the trigger back and for a short duration. Then I used just the air to dry it and repeat.
When doing a fade from say green to florescent green (as opposed to blue to white) would it be better to work down (bright to dark) or up like you do here?
Love your videos as always. They’ve upped my game considerably. Curious about your priming in white part, how bright do you lay down the white? I struggle with that part. Seems really white when i’m spraying but when i go to glaze on top, it seems to be more gray than anything. Should i be aiming for a bright white or will the contrast with the black and grey be too much?
I have the stynylrez white, I'll use that. To rephrase my question was more how opaque do you go with the white? I have a feeling I don't layer enough of it on. Do you go full opaque so no gray/black shows through it?
Hello! Thanks for this (and the other many videos you've released, you awesome being you!)! I had a lot of fun ink-glazing my nighthaunts (though with different colours). I had a bit of trouble getting the "treat your airbrush like a brush" thing right. What I found is if I was with the 7 to 1 thinner to ink dilution, at the distance which you seem to be at, and at 27 psi or so, what comes out of the airbrush is so thin that it is extremely likely to spiderweb. Did you have the pressure at a different level than 25ish psi? (maybe I missed the bit where you mentioned that) I also found that different inks were more likely to do this. For example, the beautiful D&R Turquoise was especially likely to start pooling and spidering - more so than Scarlet and Flame Orange - and this was at 7/1 like the others. Do you use the same ratio for all the paints?
So let me help with both issues. First, you want a lower PSI (I run at 18 PSI) and you really have to manage your trigger control. When you are working this thin, your layers are fragile, so every so often, you do a varnish layer to protect everything.
Thank you Vince! Wonderful video! I don't recall how many years ago. But I picked up a magenta acrylic Liquitex ink. I have tried mixing it with media and airbrushing it, airbrushing it straight and leaving it to dry over night. And even just painting it on and doing the same. The moment I went to try to seal it though. It would activate it again and suddenly run off the piece. Completely ruining the look and affect I tried getting. I have not seen anyone using Liquitex acrylic inks for these methods yet. Is there something I am doing wrong, or maybe I got a defective pot? I will be honest, I have been using pledge floor polish for my gloss coat so I suppose that could be part of the problem. This has not given me any problems on my regular acrylic paints from Citadel or Army Painter.
Yes, you have an ink that isn't water fast. Some of the arcylic inks are reactivatable and that will always make them a challenge to work with. The Daler Rowney FW line you see me working with avoid this for the most part (all inks have a little challenge with this if you don't let them fully dry). Liquitex does make an artists line of inks that should avoid it. Hope that helps. :)
I noticed you thinned the FW inks extensively. I know one of the primary reasons people like these inks is because when they aren't thinned they're fairly opaque for an ink. But since you thinned them, I was wondering if a shellac based ink would work just as well. They don't have to be thinned as much I'd think. I know you'd still need FW for doing the parts that called for white, but I'd assume you could do the turquoise with either a warcolours ink, or something like the P3 ink you used in your tutorial on painting mint green orcs?
Possibly, I like the FW inks because they are so pigment rich, I know I can take them so thin and they will still give even color. I can't speak to any experience with taking the other inks this thin.
Love your videos dude! I am close to convincing the hubby to play, and he is looking at ghosty boys in a red theme. Is there a substitute for Payne's Grey you would suggest when painting red versus blue (insert why are we here reference haha) for the black transitions?
Sure, some Vallejo Game Ink Red would be good. Something like Process Red from Daler Rowney could also work. You'd want to undercoat in some more bone or ivory color to get a stronger red as opposed to a more pink color.
Just out of interest, say you're cutting in some details, and your brush slips, you mess up some of your turqoise, and you can't wipe the paint off. You have to repair it, would you glaze in a grey transition using a brush, then glaze turquoise ink over the top? Or would you take a few steps back, break out the airbursh again and start again from the prime stage? Maybe just on the section you messed up, if you can find a suitable place to break?
Depends on the type of the error. If the error is small. A light grey and a turquoise ink over the top. If it's a big error, yeah, back to the airbrush.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean, he's shaded here, I am doing the shading through the transitions and directional application of the undershade, so we aren't worrying about applying additional shade through a wash or anything.
Steinar Haffke inks are transparent and allow the undershading to show through. If you haven’t started to amass a large ink collection your really missing out on something special.
Yes it’s glazing using inks, thing is with opaque paints you can often have opaque fillers in there too making it so the colours won’t glaze well at all. You will find that inks don’t use fillers and instead you just get intense pigmentation without anything that could ruin the glazing properties like an opaque filler does. Kinda think of it like if you added white paint to your glaze, it’s going to drastically affect how nicely the glaze applies to the model and how transparent that glaze is. Personally I have grabbed the Vallejo ink set on Vince’s recommendation for the first set of inks to pick up and then I picked up FW inks from my local art store. I am in Australia I can’t really help you with a place to by them from. Starting to use inks was a real game changer for me and I have Vince to thank for that.
Amazon Affiliate----- Set it up. Show people what to buy and get some pennies when they do. I'm going to leave this comment on all your videos till you set it up. Also great vid.
Problem is a lot of hobby things are super jacked up on Amazon. $5 Rosemary and Co brush? It's like $30 on Amazon. Paints and inks are very hit or miss, even common ones like Vallejo.
@@Bobamelius This can be true. But if you don't have a local source and just want to buy exactly way Vince is using that he bought from Amazon it's fine.
@@VinceVenturella I'm kinda new at painting minis. When do I use inks instead of paints and what brand should I get ? Thanks for all your info. And videos. I got a lot to learn.
@@robertemery1307 no issue, when you are looking for your first inks. My recommendation is the Vallejo Game Ink set. You can usually find an 8-pack pretty reasonable, it's a good starter set, they are nice and matte, and I still use many of those colors regularly. Easy to thin and use as glazes.
"get white ink it's super important" me a noob, "why?" im struggling to find the difference between shades, glazes, contrast, and inks. It's like you have to buy everything before you know anything.
White ink gives you a smooth easy finish white without the difficulty and chalkiness of white paint. It also goes through the airbrush like a dream. There is a lot to learn, but don't feel overwhelmed, I have videos on most everything and playlists to lead you through, that being said, just painting and learning as you do is always the most important thing. :)
sad how simple it is to got such effects with airbrush,.. I remember back in the days when such stuff cost hours and was special, now everyone can achieve it easily :( looks great. Looks like skill. "The result is what counts" I know, still I'm disappointed, 25 Minutes and all he does is spraying three different colours on such a beautiful mini,... somehow sad.
I understand, there is often some want to have value to the effort. But that seems a false dichotomy. We don't lament cars, or good roads, or airplanes making travel easy - certainly it was more of an accomplishment when you had to walk it, but the world is better for those innovations. To me it's the same here, yes, you can do some amazing things with an airbrush, but it's just a transition. In the end, a transition isn't that big a deal. You can do it with a brush, you can do it with an airbrush, one is faster. The most valuable thing in your life you can not replace is time. You only have so many minutes and I would like to use them as wisely as possible. In the end, I don't hold using a brush against anyone and in fact, the real advantage is that now, we can go much farther. Just like the car and the road it drives on, we have been enabled to travel farther, to do more. Same here. The basic transition is minutes, so now we can push much farther and do even more amazing things and that is a wonderful prospect.
Your subject is a marvelously grotesque figure, which unfortunately seems currently out of production, like the wonderful Sigmarite Mausoleum..... Airbrushing is cheating - you are supposed to use a brush. Artists inks are excellent for washes, you can dilute them endlessly. I've relied for years on two; black and sepia
Vince! I just want to say thanks again for this series and how much I appreciate and respect that you keep putting these out for free in this time where more and more people seems to be putting all guides on patron behind a paywall.
Appreciated, I understand, artists are trying to make a living and I respect them for that. For me, this is a hobby and I love teaching and sharing, so my stuff will always be paywall free. :)
lol, the dry delivery of cheesy commentary is gold.
"Easy, breezy, beautiful."
*enough of a pause to make you think you're safe*
"Cover ghost!"
Come for the tutorials, stay for the puns, come back for the pop culture references. ;)
Vince being really in the Bob Ross mood today
Very much so, every day is a good day when you paint. :)
This technique has been floating around in my head recently for an Underworlds warband I’ve got to paint in a few weeks, it’s like RUclips can read my mind 😋 Cheers Vince! 👍🏼👍🏼
Wonderful! Always happy to help. :)
I have tons of old school high elves to paint, this is inspiring me to try and do their drapes in smooth whites and blue tones
Totally, that would be an awesome transition for sure.
I just started playing age of Sigmar and this is the army my son picked from the starter box, he loves the video. Thank you 😁
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Great video Vince...you gotta love that silly putty, that's for sure. I use it a lot. So easy to use. I use it so much I buy it in 5 lb bricks and am on my second brick. Love the airbrush you were using as well. Oh and the ink is great as well. Thanks for sharing Vince...
Silly putty is the airbrusher's best friend ;) - Thank you and happy to help as always. :)
Awesome! I love airbrush and drybrush tutorials. Watching on a Sunday morning with a cuppa - perfect. :oD
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Ever since you showed this method with the red ink for vibrant red without getting pink or orange (I don't remember which model it was), I've employed it MANY times in all sorts of colors and it has saved me countless hours.
As always, thanks for dropping the knowledge Vince!
Excellent happy to help as always. :)
That was helpful. I want to do a 40k Rhino using inks so this helped out a lot. The finished model in the still photos looks great! Thanks for sharing this tutorial.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Really informative session, thank you. I've picked up some of that AK Matte varnish after seeing you use it.
It's amazing. Truly my go to varnish product.
Hi Vince,
Love your videos!
Question: how much psi on the airbrush for such a thin paint? Also, since you airbrushed so close to the model i presume you barely “pumped” ink out, I tend to create a lot of spiderwebs sometimes.
Ty
Still at 18 PSI and yes, I just barely touched both the air and the paint (the dual action nature of the airbrush is in effect here). You can always turn down the PSI if you don't have the precise trigger control. No issue at all. :)
Great video!! Having trouble with my Ghosties..... all of my minis actually. 😂
So glad I'm not the only one that does the "spooooky ghosts.. Ooooooooo" with the Nighthaunt models.
It's just fun right, they almost demand the sound effects. :)
@@VinceVenturella agreed!! It's nearly impossible NOT to do it!
Do you often paint with the mini's glued to the bases before having the bases done? Just cut them off when it's time to attach them to a scenic base? Also this is exactly what I needed to help me speed paint some Daemonettes.
Almost never, but this was given by a friend who had already attached it, so in those rare cases, yes, I will just carefully clip when I am ready to put it on the real base. :)
Very late to the party I want to say thank you for this great video. Not least because now I know what the strange creatures I bought in a trade shop are 🤣
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Vince. Do you think there is any value in adding matte medium to your airbrush mix to thicken it up and make spider webbing a little easier to avoid? My W&N medium is super thick, it wouldn't take much of it to thicken the mix, and it may help with taking off the top end of the sheen as well.
I airbrush Army Painter washes quite often, as a filter, and don't find them difficult to put through the airbrush undiluted; but then I am spraying at a much greater distance, often doing a reverse zenithal. Getting up close and personal with a much stronger ink scares me, I'd like to make it as easy as I can. If a thicker mix lets me get closer, then I'll happily use it.
I will say I have never had any value to add the matte medium. It might work, but I have always just tried to control the airflow very carefully.
Love your Hobby Cheating series. It has been super helpful in so many aspects. Thank you VERY much for your hard work.
I had a question: I'm really looking into getting an airbrush, but I'm worried about the noise the air compressor makes. I'm living in an apartment and I don't want to be disruptive to the people I live with/other tenants in other units. Yours doesn't seem too loud and turns on and off which is great. How loud is it? It is much louder than an old window A/C unit?
Thanks!
Now, if you get one wtih a tank, it's actually generally pretty quiet, shouldn't be more disruptive than an AC unit or similar thing.
@@VinceVenturella Awesome! Thanks for the quick reply.
I love this! Would I be right in assuming that I could use this technique to give the ghosts a cold white look? If so are there any inks from FW I should get? Thankfully I already have the white. Thanks Vince! I think this might be just the trick I needed to get through my spooky backlog :)
Some of the off blue inks might be good, especially when mixed with the white. The tricky part is that it wouldn't glaze as well, so you will want to increase the white layer, then do some thin blues over.
Still haven’t made the jump to airbrushing. I’m still working with rattle cans for my undercoating. Can the ink glazed be done with a brush?
Absolutely, check out my How to Glaze video and you will see that very thing in practice.
Was the reverse zinethal done using your usual method of German Grey, Cold Grey, Dead White?
Yep, same technique.
thank you for the video.
when i try to airbrush with super thin glazes/inks... i always get drops of the paint on the mini, it looks like i leave the mini in the rain :).
i guess i am using to much air and paint with the airbrush? you are using very little of both?
That is exactly correct. You want very, very, very little air and little paint.
thank forthe guide Vince, i keep forget, when we do with very very thin paint/ink like this,we should use more air or less air than normal base coat painting ?
I use the same PSI, I am just barely (and I mean barely) pulling the trigger back and for a short duration. Then I used just the air to dry it and repeat.
Speaking of varnish do you thin and use flowaid on your varnish through the airbrush? Or is there really good airbrush varnish?
No thinner, I use AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish (I have a review on this channel). It's just an amazing product.
When doing a fade from say green to florescent green (as opposed to blue to white) would it be better to work down (bright to dark) or up like you do here?
You could really go either direction, but working down is generally easier.
Love your videos as always. They’ve upped my game considerably.
Curious about your priming in white part, how bright do you lay down the white? I struggle with that part. Seems really white when i’m spraying but when i go to glaze on top, it seems to be more gray than anything. Should i be aiming for a bright white or will the contrast with the black and grey be too much?
For the white parts (i.e. the highest highlight), I go pure white. I use either white ink or Badger Stynelrez White Primer (you can get a real white).
I have the stynylrez white, I'll use that. To rephrase my question was more how opaque do you go with the white? I have a feeling I don't layer enough of it on. Do you go full opaque so no gray/black shows through it?
I go quite opaque and yep, it takes some time and layers.
Hello! Thanks for this (and the other many videos you've released, you awesome being you!)!
I had a lot of fun ink-glazing my nighthaunts (though with different colours). I had a bit of trouble getting the "treat your airbrush like a brush" thing right. What I found is if I was with the 7 to 1 thinner to ink dilution, at the distance which you seem to be at, and at 27 psi or so, what comes out of the airbrush is so thin that it is extremely likely to spiderweb. Did you have the pressure at a different level than 25ish psi? (maybe I missed the bit where you mentioned that)
I also found that different inks were more likely to do this. For example, the beautiful D&R Turquoise was especially likely to start pooling and spidering - more so than Scarlet and Flame Orange - and this was at 7/1 like the others. Do you use the same ratio for all the paints?
Also, wow, those inks are really fragile... when the pooling happens the new ink easily pulls off the previous ink even if it was from an hour ago...
So let me help with both issues. First, you want a lower PSI (I run at 18 PSI) and you really have to manage your trigger control. When you are working this thin, your layers are fragile, so every so often, you do a varnish layer to protect everything.
Thank you!
I am thinking about using the nighthaunt scheme for space marine power armour. Do you think it's possible and have you any advice for me?
Yeah, I think it could work just as a color transition. You'd want to transition probably down to the limbs.
Thank you Vince! Wonderful video! I don't recall how many years ago. But I picked up a magenta acrylic Liquitex ink. I have tried mixing it with media and airbrushing it, airbrushing it straight and leaving it to dry over night. And even just painting it on and doing the same. The moment I went to try to seal it though. It would activate it again and suddenly run off the piece. Completely ruining the look and affect I tried getting. I have not seen anyone using Liquitex acrylic inks for these methods yet. Is there something I am doing wrong, or maybe I got a defective pot? I will be honest, I have been using pledge floor polish for my gloss coat so I suppose that could be part of the problem. This has not given me any problems on my regular acrylic paints from Citadel or Army Painter.
Yes, you have an ink that isn't water fast. Some of the arcylic inks are reactivatable and that will always make them a challenge to work with. The Daler Rowney FW line you see me working with avoid this for the most part (all inks have a little challenge with this if you don't let them fully dry). Liquitex does make an artists line of inks that should avoid it.
Hope that helps. :)
@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much! Makes me feel a lot better with that problem. I'll pick up some Daler Rowney FW line then!
Have you done a Hobby Cheating about how to paint white, veiled banshee-style ghosts? (i.e. Lady Olynder, Myrmourns, Briar Queen, etc.)?
I've done smooth white, it would work there - ruclips.net/video/d0wWzjluaxM/видео.html
Also, when you did your pre-shading, did you use an airbrush or the makeup brush drybrush technique?
The pre-shading was airbrush, just black and white paint as well. The dry brushing you see is the first dry brush application.
Check out his how to prepare for your best model video, seriously great video that goes over this and some more prep tips.
Hobby cheating #34 is the video I’m referring to
I like your videos. They are all very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
I noticed you thinned the FW inks extensively. I know one of the primary reasons people like these inks is because when they aren't thinned they're fairly opaque for an ink. But since you thinned them, I was wondering if a shellac based ink would work just as well. They don't have to be thinned as much I'd think. I know you'd still need FW for doing the parts that called for white, but I'd assume you could do the turquoise with either a warcolours ink, or something like the P3 ink you used in your tutorial on painting mint green orcs?
Possibly, I like the FW inks because they are so pigment rich, I know I can take them so thin and they will still give even color. I can't speak to any experience with taking the other inks this thin.
I don't understand why a ghost would strap a gallows pole to its back, but it sure does look cool.
I believe it was put on him by Nagash, as he likes the eternal punishment to fit the crime. :) (And also, it looks cool).
Love your videos dude! I am close to convincing the hubby to play, and he is looking at ghosty boys in a red theme. Is there a substitute for Payne's Grey you would suggest when painting red versus blue (insert why are we here reference haha) for the black transitions?
Sure, some Vallejo Game Ink Red would be good. Something like Process Red from Daler Rowney could also work. You'd want to undercoat in some more bone or ivory color to get a stronger red as opposed to a more pink color.
Vince Venturella thank you!
Did you get a new microphone? Your voice seems louder and more crisp than before.
Yep, using a different mic now (for the last several videos). Glad to hear it's better. :)
That drybrushing gave me a real Bob Ross feel
Just some happy little dry brushes. :)
Exactly what I was looking for ty
Excellent, always happy to help. :)
the intro cracked me up
Happy to help as always. ;)
Just out of interest, say you're cutting in some details, and your brush slips, you mess up some of your turqoise, and you can't wipe the paint off. You have to repair it, would you glaze in a grey transition using a brush, then glaze turquoise ink over the top?
Or would you take a few steps back, break out the airbursh again and start again from the prime stage? Maybe just on the section you messed up, if you can find a suitable place to break?
Depends on the type of the error. If the error is small. A light grey and a turquoise ink over the top. If it's a big error, yeah, back to the airbrush.
How would you go about shading this model?
I'm not sure I understand what you mean, he's shaded here, I am doing the shading through the transitions and directional application of the undershade, so we aren't worrying about applying additional shade through a wash or anything.
What psi are you spraying your thinned inks at?
18 PSI, the usual standard I spray at, but I am *barely* pulling the trigger.
For those of us who have been too lazy to buy inks....how much of a difference is it between using a ink and, lets say, a extra opaque AV color?
Steinar Haffke inks are transparent and allow the undershading to show through. If you haven’t started to amass a large ink collection your really missing out on something special.
@@bentosan Anyone on ebay to recommend? Non-us? Costs a fortune to ship to norway :p
@@bentosan And btw, so it's just glazing, then?
Yes it’s glazing using inks, thing is with opaque paints you can often have opaque fillers in there too making it so the colours won’t glaze well at all.
You will find that inks don’t use fillers and instead you just get intense pigmentation without anything that could ruin the glazing properties like an opaque filler does.
Kinda think of it like if you added white paint to your glaze, it’s going to drastically affect how nicely the glaze applies to the model and how transparent that glaze is.
Personally I have grabbed the Vallejo ink set on Vince’s recommendation for the first set of inks to pick up and then I picked up FW inks from my local art store. I am in Australia I can’t really help you with a place to by them from.
Starting to use inks was a real game changer for me and I have Vince to thank for that.
Yep, I agree with everything Bento said.
Amazon Affiliate----- Set it up. Show people what to buy and get some pennies when they do. I'm going to leave this comment on all your videos till you set it up. Also great vid.
Problem is a lot of hobby things are super jacked up on Amazon. $5 Rosemary and Co brush? It's like $30 on Amazon. Paints and inks are very hit or miss, even common ones like Vallejo.
@@Bobamelius This can be true. But if you don't have a local source and just want to buy exactly way Vince is using that he bought from Amazon it's fine.
I'll see what I can do.
I too am a turquoise addict Vince.
I just can't help myself. It's such a wonderful color.
Looking down on it , can't really see much of what's getting painted.
Sorry about that, it's why I moved my airbrush set-up. :)
@@VinceVenturella I'm kinda new at painting minis. When do I use inks instead of paints and what brand should I get ? Thanks for all your info. And videos. I got a lot to learn.
@@robertemery1307 no issue, when you are looking for your first inks. My recommendation is the Vallejo Game Ink set. You can usually find an 8-pack pretty reasonable, it's a good starter set, they are nice and matte, and I still use many of those colors regularly. Easy to thin and use as glazes.
Damn it, if i know turqoise ink can get that blue that beautiful, i should not have to spend money for GW Nighthaunt gloom paint.
It's a really wonderful color for sure. Worth an investment.
"get white ink it's super important" me a noob, "why?" im struggling to find the difference between shades, glazes, contrast, and inks. It's like you have to buy everything before you know anything.
White ink gives you a smooth easy finish white without the difficulty and chalkiness of white paint. It also goes through the airbrush like a dream. There is a lot to learn, but don't feel overwhelmed, I have videos on most everything and playlists to lead you through, that being said, just painting and learning as you do is always the most important thing. :)
shit i am on my way to get some white ink now thanks! :)
It's amazing.
Vince suddenly turns into the evil version of Bob Ross.
sad how simple it is to got such effects with airbrush,.. I remember back in the days when such stuff cost hours and was special, now everyone can achieve it easily :( looks great. Looks like skill. "The result is what counts" I know, still I'm disappointed, 25 Minutes and all he does is spraying three different colours on such a beautiful mini,... somehow sad.
I understand, there is often some want to have value to the effort. But that seems a false dichotomy. We don't lament cars, or good roads, or airplanes making travel easy - certainly it was more of an accomplishment when you had to walk it, but the world is better for those innovations.
To me it's the same here, yes, you can do some amazing things with an airbrush, but it's just a transition. In the end, a transition isn't that big a deal. You can do it with a brush, you can do it with an airbrush, one is faster. The most valuable thing in your life you can not replace is time. You only have so many minutes and I would like to use them as wisely as possible.
In the end, I don't hold using a brush against anyone and in fact, the real advantage is that now, we can go much farther. Just like the car and the road it drives on, we have been enabled to travel farther, to do more. Same here. The basic transition is minutes, so now we can push much farther and do even more amazing things and that is a wonderful prospect.
Your subject is a marvelously grotesque figure, which unfortunately seems currently out of production, like the wonderful Sigmarite Mausoleum..... Airbrushing is cheating - you are supposed to use a brush. Artists inks are excellent for washes, you can dilute them endlessly. I've relied for years on two; black and sepia
Well, the series is called Hobby Cheating. ;)