I'm doing the radiator hoses, valve lash, and a few other bits and pieces on my 2006 Fit, and really appreciate the clear step-by-step approach in this video and your other one on valve adjustment. I figured I might as well replace the thermostat while I'm in there, but am regretting that decision as access is surprisingly bad and it's hard to move the main wiring harness out of the way.
Yes I also attempted the thermostat, even though it still works fine. As you say, access is very poor and I decided to postpone this job until the thermostat fails. My Fit has 262k miles, with the original thermostat. It would make a great video if done properly.
@@msbrunell I managed to access the thermostat after disconnecting all the electrical connectors on the CVT and various brackets and zip ties relating to the lower main harness. I even had to remove a sensor from the CVT which was blocking access to the rear bolt. Short bungee cords to hold everything up and out of the way. The old thermostat looks almost pristine - just a hint of surface corrosion on one or two parts. I'd say don't bother replacing it as a preventive measure (even if it would make a good video). :)
@@msbrunell Well, I had some coolant mishaps: I was using a DIY no-spill funnel, which didn't have enough capacity or robustness - there was a lot of expansion and it even started to boil but the radiator fan didn't come on. There was also negligible cabin heat. To make matters worse, it threw a P0113 (IAT high) due to the heat in the engine bay and switched to fast idle, at which point the funnel flew off and made a big mess (fortunately I was inside the car). I was worried I might have installed a faulty thermostat, but pretty clearly it was an air lock: after a couple of cooling/heating cycles it drew in more water and ECT dropped to normal and I had cabin heat again. On the plus side, the engine runs noticeably smoother and quieter after the valve adjustment and injector cleaning!
Thanks for sharing this! I have a leaky hose and I think the person who owned the car before me had some issue cause there are worm clamps on the hoses instead of the Honda factory ones. I really appreciate the techniques you used. Where did you get the needle nose vice grips?
you probably dont care but if you guys are bored like me atm you can stream pretty much all the new series on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf for the last couple of months =)
I'm doing the radiator hoses, valve lash, and a few other bits and pieces on my 2006 Fit, and really appreciate the clear step-by-step approach in this video and your other one on valve adjustment. I figured I might as well replace the thermostat while I'm in there, but am regretting that decision as access is surprisingly bad and it's hard to move the main wiring harness out of the way.
Yes I also attempted the thermostat, even though it still works fine. As you say, access is very poor and I decided to postpone this job until the thermostat fails. My Fit has 262k miles, with the original thermostat. It would make a great video if done properly.
@@msbrunell I managed to access the thermostat after disconnecting all the electrical connectors on the CVT and various brackets and zip ties relating to the lower main harness. I even had to remove a sensor from the CVT which was blocking access to the rear bolt. Short bungee cords to hold everything up and out of the way. The old thermostat looks almost pristine - just a hint of surface corrosion on one or two parts. I'd say don't bother replacing it as a preventive measure (even if it would make a good video). :)
Oh, also two sneaky connectors on the rear of the engine!
@@thromboid Helpful comments...thanks! Hopefully I won't need to attempt this.
@@msbrunell Well, I had some coolant mishaps: I was using a DIY no-spill funnel, which didn't have enough capacity or robustness - there was a lot of expansion and it even started to boil but the radiator fan didn't come on. There was also negligible cabin heat. To make matters worse, it threw a P0113 (IAT high) due to the heat in the engine bay and switched to fast idle, at which point the funnel flew off and made a big mess (fortunately I was inside the car). I was worried I might have installed a faulty thermostat, but pretty clearly it was an air lock: after a couple of cooling/heating cycles it drew in more water and ECT dropped to normal and I had cabin heat again.
On the plus side, the engine runs noticeably smoother and quieter after the valve adjustment and injector cleaning!
Watching from France..Merci beaucoup surtout avec l'explication en Français...Hat's off
Great resolution quality video. 0:51 this one is very tough to remove due to the double barb inside.
Thanks for sharing this! I have a leaky hose and I think the person who owned the car before me had some issue cause there are worm clamps on the hoses instead of the Honda factory ones. I really appreciate the techniques you used. Where did you get the needle nose vice grips?
You can get those vise grips at any outlet selling tools.
thanks for making a video step by step
you probably dont care but if you guys are bored like me atm you can stream pretty much all the new series on InstaFlixxer. Have been binge watching with my gf for the last couple of months =)
@Jameson Harley yup, have been using instaflixxer for since december myself :)
Very good video
Are these all premolded hoses? Or can you get away with hose cut to length?
Premolded - from Honda. There are some twists and bends but a flexible one might work.
Great video! Thank you!
Why replace the hoses unless their leaking which I suspect was the case but all of them at the same time ?
They were getting very crunchy. Trying to avoid a disaster.
@@msbrunell understood
Will work for 2009 model?
That's a different body style, but it should be similar.
Part #?
Honda Parts Now is a good place to find the part #s