@Ed Blackely I've watched this video more times than I can count. I also noticed you answer just about every question that's posted. You are the type of guy that people love to talk to at truck shows. Good on you my friend! 👍💪
The truck later went 10.2 @ 135 just as quiet! Doesn’t take an annoying open downpipe to go fast, but obviously the truck would have gone a few tenths quicker with a fender exit exhaust that pierced your ears…
How much boost was that 10.02 run? Your build is almost Identical to the one in working on except I’ve got a 4.8, TSP 2.5 heads and a VS Billet 78/75. So far I love the fit and quality of my truck kit and would like to see 10s I’m the 1/4.
I remember this truck from the forum days. I think I actually responded to one of your threads about tire sizes - I used to runs 265s on the front of my truck before I lowered it.
That’s a sweet setup. Straight to the point the right way. I’ve had a few of these trucks, all highly modified. I’m looking to do a 4x4 changeover/swap. I think that truck would really wake up with a looser 3500 stall and a transbrake mod. Whether you do it through the VB or by adding a relay and switch to the shift solenoid, either would help getting out of the hole quicker.
Wow!! Watched the vid before I read the description!! Absolutely awesome. I’m starting to plan for a DD build on my 05 1500. I’m not manning for a sub 13 sec truck. It will be plenty for me as a driver.
Thanks! That has always been the theme of the build. Drive to the track, air down tires, stiffen up shocks, run fast! Have gone 10.91 @ 124.65 since then, always on regular street tires (no drag radials or slicks)
Edward Blackley how do you like the tick stage 1 cam? does it noticeably lope and does it have a good idle and good street manners? I jumped the gun on a ls1 hot cam and in my opinion it's too choppy. It does however light a gt45 off faster than a stocker. I guess that's the only good I can say about it.
Not sure if I just missed it in the description but did you do anything so beef up the front dif, I got a 2012 4wd with the 6l80 and I'm afraid launching in 4 would shred some stuff
The front diff in all GM trucks 1988-present is very strong and needs nothing to launch in 4wd. I had new axles from Oreilly just cause the originals were worn out, otherwise nothing!
@@chrisedwards2624 sweet, thanks for the info, I do have a 3in lift that required me dropping some spacers to lower the front diff a bit, so I'll probably hold off on 4wd launches until I do something else but good to know the transfer case won't shell. Am thinking of replacing the torque converter while the engine is out, (180,000 miles) think a 6l90 swap is worth or just get something aftermarket?
@@chrisokelley8337 The 6L80 is very strong even stock. The torque converter is the weak link. But if you’re n/a or stock I would not hesitate to have some fun. The lift won’t affect anything.
Thats a lot of stuff to be running 11.7. Got a buddy that has a 4.8 with a ls9 cam, dont know what size turbo, e85 chinese head studs. pushing like 25 pounds. making 800 hp through a 4l80e. runs 10.6
Truck has since gone 10.91 @ 124.65 on 18lbs of boost. Very simple combo that is driveable and needs no tire changes to run the #. Can be hot lapped as well, it will run 11.0 10 times in a row with no rise in EGT's or trans temps. A 4.8 will be a dog on the street out of boost. I milled the heads .030" to bump compression up to 10:1 so it's very peppy off boost.
Allende NL, I got a friends, brothers, uncles, sisters cousin that has a9.2 with a ls8 cam, dont know what size rocket booster, e85 korean butt missiles pushing like 5000kilograms making 62,000 ugga-duggas through a unicorn anus that runs 10.59. So your friend needs to step up his game😅
I’m the new owner of the truck, it currently sits on the East Coast now. 18psi it ran a 10.2 in 50 deg temps. Nothing was changed to get the lower times but a new motor is in the works now.
Have you ever tried shifting to 2 high on the fly after 2nd gear to see if you get faster? I saw a video where a guy got the same 1/4 while spinning with 2 high versus no spinning in 4 high. He said something about the 4 high makes it slower down the track because it changes power output to engine
No that's how you break a transfer case. Keep it in 4hi the whole time and click it into 2hi once you're coasting to the return road or on the return road if there isn't a sharp turn to get on it. Lots of really fast 4WD turbo trucks have broken their transfer cases trying to shift into 2hi in the early days before they knew it was a recipe for breaking parts.
Truck surprised me a lot with that sick launch w/o sounding all too loud doing it. My question for you is, could a 2wd be just as fast because of the reduced weight from not having the 4wd system? Or slower because the front wheels cant help it launch? I'm new to drag racing & I've got a 2wd. I don't think I've ever raced a 4wd before so I wouldn't mind to know what I could be up against😅
Yes 2WD can be just as fast but you would need slicks instead of normal tires. And even with slicks, you need to have the suspension dialed in 100% to hook. With 4WD it's much easier to hook.
It's all about the setup. Tune, tires, and suspension. IMO if you have it setup properly you'll have an advantage over 4wd trucks due to weight, but they can launch in 4wd so your reaction time has to be good
Stock rear 10 bolt? I’m building a 90 obs 4x4. I have a Ford 9” but have two projects. A street and dirt truck. If the 10 bolt can handle the power than the 9” will go in my dirt truck
Lol not a bone stock 10-bolt. The G80 isnt called the Gov-bomb for no reason. It had an Eaton TruTrac and a Moser diff cover, stock everything else. But the 99+ have an 8.625” 10-bolt which is stronger than your OBS’s 8.5” 10-bolt. You can fortify your 8.5” to be very strong but you will want to upgrade it with a 33 spline Trutrac and forged axles. Diff cover helps too. Being a 4x4 your rear end doesn’t see anywhere near the forces that a 2wd truck does on a sticky tire.
There’s only 1 wear item in a turbo kit and that’s the turbo itself. I used a generic base level turbo from Trick and had zero issues in 3 years and 20,000 miles. Don’t go cheap on the fuel system and use a very reputable tuner and the combo will last forever.
@@chrisedwards2624 holy shit I honestly wasn’t expecting a reply on such an old video. Thank you! Yeah I plan on redoing the entire fuel system, truck has almost 220k. Just ls3 swapped it so looking for some more spice.
It was a stock P59 ECU setup for a flex fuel OS, speed density. And the fuel system I built was a custom dual pump assembly using twin TI Automotive 450's, corrugated hoses and clamps from Quantum fuel systems, and Phenix lines and fittings, running off a 2psi hobbs switch.
Are the 4x4 components stock? Whats the highest psi you've 4x4 boost launched it at? I'm trying to get an idea of what the stock 4x4 system can handle. I'm building a 13' boosted Silverado..
Yes 100% stock 4x4 components. O'Reilly front axles, stock front diff with fresh fluid. I never launched mine on slicks so I only launched at 6psi otherwise it would blow the tires off, but I know a lot of guys are using slicks and don't have any problems at all. The stock 1/2 ton transfer case and front differential are very strong.
Did u upgrade the engine to handle the boost or did u leave it stock?....cause i have a 09 GM and i'm thinking abaut putting a 70 mm turbo on it for daily use so a little información would help me a lot to know what else i need to to
Yes I did but only minor stuff like ARP head studs, LS9 headgaskets. I also did a small cam, since the truck cam kinda sucks. And when you do a cam (or any boost actually), you need to upgrade the valve springs. So I did valvesprings and since I had to remove the timing cover and drop the oil pan for the cam, I did a new timing chain and new oil pump and new seals. But as far as the rotating assembly (pistons, rings, rods, crank) those are all 100% stock. Your 2009 has the bigger connecting rods that started in 2004 so you don't need to do much but I would always recommend valvesprings even if you stay with the stock cam.
Ok well i already got a bryan tooley stage one cam kit in it with springs and everything so how much psi can i run it with the stock fuel inyectors and stock fuel pump?
Joe Blow 3” downpipe, and the outlet of the downpipe is vbanded into a 3” to 4” expander, then a custom 4” mandrel bent exhaust with a 36” long 4” Magnaflow muffler and then 4” all the way out the tailpipe. It was still a tad loud around town for my tastes, even though it sounds quiet going down the track. I ended up putting a small resonator before the muffler but that didn’t do much. On my next turbo truck I’d do a 3” exhaust and a boost activated or switch activated cutout off the downpipe.
I have a 5.3 Silverado that I want to make a reliable 500whp. How much (ballpark) would I need to spend to get that done considering some supporting mods and turbo setup?
If it was me, I'd budget about $10k. Think about it... even a cheap turbo kit is $3k. Then you'll need a transmission, and that's totally variable. Maybe you're extremely lucky and find a 4L80e on Craigslist for $500 that doesn't need a rebuild? If it does need a rebuild, factor another $1k in parts and labor (minimum). So now we're at ~$4500. You'll need a good torque converter. $500-1000 right there depending on how spendy you are. Then a good driveshaft, so $500 or so right there. So we're at ~$5500 and we're not done. You can't run 500whp through stock suspension and stock rear diff. You'll need a Trutrac and CalTracs. That's another $1k. So $6500. You'll need injectors and a fuel pump, at least $500 and that's if you go with cheap stuff. So $7000 so far and we haven't even gotten started with tuning or dyno time. And this is if you use the CHEAPEST stuff on the market. I'm sure others have done it even cheaper but I don't have any experience with that because I build it once and build it right so I don't have to do it over and over again.
@@michaelmastri651 I spent $15k on parts for this truck but I had a triple disc torque converter, E85 fuel system, rebuilt front diff, 5” Treadstone intercooler, etc so it adds up quick
I’m going turbo on my truck. I Did most of the things over time but still planning on budgeting on around 10k for just turbo kit 4l80 and bigger injectors. The rest is done. It’s best to do it right the first time and not have to spend double later down the road
Yes front axles and front diff are stock. I did replace the front axles with local parts store replacements when I first got the truck (before turbo), but otherwise the front end was perfect I never had an issue.
If you look at my other videos, the cam barely has a lope. Almost sounds like a stock cam. Therefore, it drives like a stock cam. I daily drove it so I didn't want to attract a lot of attention with a rowdy cam. Turbo motors don't need a lot of cam anyways.
It was making ~550rwhp/600rwtq here, the DA was was about 3000ft. It ended up going 10.91 @ 126 about a year later with a few twists of the boost controller and better air
@@beardedforlife3740 it’s all relative. Even rcsb 4x4 is a featherweight compared to a crewcab. Plus the 4x4 rapes on the street. 2wd doesn’t stand a chance unless it’s on a prepped surface and even then it’s a toss up. 4wd hooks on a boosted launch in the rain on Craigslist Michelin’s lol. I’ll take 4wd any day of the week!!!
@@chrisedwards2624 thank you so much for the fast reply! I have the same exact truck down to year with a 4/6 drop! On the launch do you press 2wd pr just do the whole run in 4hi or doesn't it disengage itself after a certain speed?
Andy Rodriguez 4hi the whole way. Don’t put back into 2wd until you’re coasting at the end of the run. Switching to 2wd at wot will ruin the transfer case
@@chrisedwards2624 damn, you must have paid for top dollar stuff. I'm looking at a 900+hp build on mine and I don't think I'll crack 10k. I am however going to do most of the work myself so that does reduce a lot of cost
@@beardedforlife3740 I don’t use junk that’s for sure! Buy once, cry once. I insist on OEM functionality and driveability so no sloppy mechanics for me anywhere 🙌🏻
@@KapenW17 Removing overload lowers truck maybe 1/2" - 3/4". It's necessary when you do the Cal-Tracs as the overload spring interferes with the traction bar. It doesn't really affect ride height but it does obviously reduce the payload of the truck dramatically. I didn't care because I only ever hauled wheels and tires and the payload was adequate for that. 60ft's in this video were 1.7 but once I got things figured out it would go 1.6x on these same Craigslist michelin tires. It would obviously have gone 1.4-1.5 with drag radials on all 4 corners but to me that defeats the purpose of 4wd.
LS2 timing chain is stronger than truck timing chain. They're cheap and you always replace the timing chain when you do a cam swap, that is why people use them.
When you bump in both beams before the other guy gets his pre stage on, usually that tree starts a countdown of like 10 seconds or something like that that you have to bump in your pre stage. So basically it forces the other guy to rush in his pre stage, not giving him time to finish out what he does after his burnout.
@Ed Blackely I've watched this video more times than I can count. I also noticed you answer just about every question that's posted. You are the type of guy that people love to talk to at truck shows. Good on you my friend! 👍💪
Absolutely! These trucks are so fun but a little information goes a long way before someone starts a build.
crazy how fast that truck is for how quiet it is going down the strip it almost makes you think it's going slower than it actually is, total sleeper!
The truck later went 10.2 @ 135 just as quiet! Doesn’t take an annoying open downpipe to go fast, but obviously the truck would have gone a few tenths quicker with a fender exit exhaust that pierced your ears…
How much boost was that 10.02 run? Your build is almost
Identical to the one in working on except I’ve got a 4.8, TSP 2.5 heads and a VS Billet 78/75. So far I love the fit and quality of my truck kit and would like to see 10s I’m the 1/4.
That is a very nice, properly built truck. Nice ride, man.
I remember this truck from the forum days. I think I actually responded to one of your threads about tire sizes - I used to runs 265s on the front of my truck before I lowered it.
Freakin sweet build I’m trying to do something similar with my 03 z71
That’s a sweet setup. Straight to the point the right way. I’ve had a few of these trucks, all highly modified. I’m looking to do a 4x4 changeover/swap. I think that truck would really wake up with a looser 3500 stall and a transbrake mod. Whether you do it through the VB or by adding a relay and switch to the shift solenoid, either would help getting out of the hole quicker.
You don't need a transbrake. Simple 2800-3200 stall all that is needed. 3500 is a bit too loose for a street truck IMO.
congrats man, that should make a sweet daily,love the truck .
Wow!! Watched the vid before I read the description!! Absolutely awesome. I’m starting to plan for a DD build on my 05 1500. I’m not manning for a sub 13 sec truck. It will be plenty for me as a driver.
I gt a 14 z71 love to have it cammed and dyno tuned
Do it! You won’t regret it
Very respectable time. Well done sir. 👍
Thats mint! Drive around the water box and run an 11.
Thanks! That has always been the theme of the build. Drive to the track, air down tires, stiffen up shocks, run fast! Have gone 10.91 @ 124.65 since then, always on regular street tires (no drag radials or slicks)
Edward Blackley how do you like the tick stage 1 cam? does it noticeably lope and does it have a good idle and good street manners? I jumped the gun on a ls1 hot cam and in my opinion it's too choppy. It does however light a gt45 off faster than a stocker. I guess that's the only good I can say about it.
It doesn't lope much at all, I wanted stealth and Tick Stage 1 does just that: ruclips.net/video/MwSj2zYJJa4/видео.html
I plan on turboing my 6.0 swap z71. Crazy you're on 10.4 CR and boosted!
On E85 you could boost on 12:1 no problem
Oh mines a daily so I'll stick with 93
Not sure if I just missed it in the description but did you do anything so beef up the front dif, I got a 2012 4wd with the 6l80 and I'm afraid launching in 4 would shred some stuff
The front diff in all GM trucks 1988-present is very strong and needs nothing to launch in 4wd. I had new axles from Oreilly just cause the originals were worn out, otherwise nothing!
@@chrisedwards2624 sweet, thanks for the info, I do have a 3in lift that required me dropping some spacers to lower the front diff a bit, so I'll probably hold off on 4wd launches until I do something else but good to know the transfer case won't shell. Am thinking of replacing the torque converter while the engine is out, (180,000 miles) think a 6l90 swap is worth or just get something aftermarket?
@@chrisokelley8337 The 6L80 is very strong even stock. The torque converter is the weak link. But if you’re n/a or stock I would not hesitate to have some fun. The lift won’t affect anything.
Thats a lot of stuff to be running 11.7. Got a buddy that has a 4.8 with a ls9 cam, dont know what size turbo, e85 chinese head studs. pushing like 25 pounds. making 800 hp through a 4l80e. runs 10.6
Truck has since gone 10.91 @ 124.65 on 18lbs of boost. Very simple combo that is driveable and needs no tire changes to run the #. Can be hot lapped as well, it will run 11.0 10 times in a row with no rise in EGT's or trans temps. A 4.8 will be a dog on the street out of boost. I milled the heads .030" to bump compression up to 10:1 so it's very peppy off boost.
Allende NL, I got a friends, brothers, uncles, sisters cousin that has a9.2 with a ls8 cam, dont know what size rocket booster, e85 korean butt missiles pushing like 5000kilograms making 62,000 ugga-duggas through a unicorn anus that runs 10.59. So your friend needs to step up his game😅
Bad Luck Garage
I hear of a man who knew a guy with the EXACT SAME THING!!
I’m the new owner of the truck, it currently sits on the East Coast now. 18psi it ran a 10.2 in 50 deg temps. Nothing was changed to get the lower times but a new motor is in the works now.
@@BadLuckGarage best comment ever
Have you ever tried shifting to 2 high on the fly after 2nd gear to see if you get faster? I saw a video where a guy got the same 1/4 while spinning with 2 high versus no spinning in 4 high. He said something about the 4 high makes it slower down the track because it changes power output to engine
No that's how you break a transfer case. Keep it in 4hi the whole time and click it into 2hi once you're coasting to the return road or on the return road if there isn't a sharp turn to get on it. Lots of really fast 4WD turbo trucks have broken their transfer cases trying to shift into 2hi in the early days before they knew it was a recipe for breaking parts.
Truck surprised me a lot with that sick launch w/o sounding all too loud doing it. My question for you is, could a 2wd be just as fast because of the reduced weight from not having the 4wd system? Or slower because the front wheels cant help it launch? I'm new to drag racing & I've got a 2wd. I don't think I've ever raced a 4wd before so I wouldn't mind to know what I could be up against😅
Yes 2WD can be just as fast but you would need slicks instead of normal tires. And even with slicks, you need to have the suspension dialed in 100% to hook. With 4WD it's much easier to hook.
Okay 👍 thanks for clearing that up for me.
It's all about the setup. Tune, tires, and suspension. IMO if you have it setup properly you'll have an advantage over 4wd trucks due to weight, but they can launch in 4wd so your reaction time has to be good
Awesome truck.
Thank you!
Entire run in 4wd or shifting to 2wd after the launch?
Nice truck.
4WD Hi all the way down the track. It's not good for it to disengage out of 4WD at WOT but it's totally fine to do a full 1/4 mile blast in 4 HI
Stock rear 10 bolt? I’m building a 90 obs 4x4. I have a Ford 9” but have two projects. A street and dirt truck. If the 10 bolt can handle the power than the 9” will go in my dirt truck
Lol not a bone stock 10-bolt. The G80 isnt called the Gov-bomb for no reason. It had an Eaton TruTrac and a Moser diff cover, stock everything else. But the 99+ have an 8.625” 10-bolt which is stronger than your OBS’s 8.5” 10-bolt. You can fortify your 8.5” to be very strong but you will want to upgrade it with a 33 spline Trutrac and forged axles. Diff cover helps too. Being a 4x4 your rear end doesn’t see anywhere near the forces that a 2wd truck does on a sticky tire.
I’m looking at a trick turbo setup. Would you recommend for first turbo setup to last atleast a year or 2?
There’s only 1 wear item in a turbo kit and that’s the turbo itself. I used a generic base level turbo from Trick and had zero issues in 3 years and 20,000 miles. Don’t go cheap on the fuel system and use a very reputable tuner and the combo will last forever.
@@chrisedwards2624 holy shit I honestly wasn’t expecting a reply on such an old video. Thank you! Yeah I plan on redoing the entire fuel system, truck has almost 220k. Just ls3 swapped it so looking for some more spice.
Love it, I have a 2000 2wd build. What fuel system are you using and what ecu?
It was a stock P59 ECU setup for a flex fuel OS, speed density. And the fuel system I built was a custom dual pump assembly using twin TI Automotive 450's, corrugated hoses and clamps from Quantum fuel systems, and Phenix lines and fittings, running off a 2psi hobbs switch.
Are the 4x4 components stock? Whats the highest psi you've 4x4 boost launched it at? I'm trying to get an idea of what the stock 4x4 system can handle. I'm building a 13' boosted Silverado..
Yes 100% stock 4x4 components. O'Reilly front axles, stock front diff with fresh fluid. I never launched mine on slicks so I only launched at 6psi otherwise it would blow the tires off, but I know a lot of guys are using slicks and don't have any problems at all. The stock 1/2 ton transfer case and front differential are very strong.
Did u upgrade the engine to handle the boost or did u leave it stock?....cause i have a 09 GM and i'm thinking abaut putting a 70 mm turbo on it for daily use so a little información would help me a lot to know what else i need to to
Yes I did but only minor stuff like ARP head studs, LS9 headgaskets. I also did a small cam, since the truck cam kinda sucks. And when you do a cam (or any boost actually), you need to upgrade the valve springs. So I did valvesprings and since I had to remove the timing cover and drop the oil pan for the cam, I did a new timing chain and new oil pump and new seals. But as far as the rotating assembly (pistons, rings, rods, crank) those are all 100% stock. Your 2009 has the bigger connecting rods that started in 2004 so you don't need to do much but I would always recommend valvesprings even if you stay with the stock cam.
Ok well i already got a bryan tooley stage one cam kit in it with springs and everything so how much psi can i run it with the stock fuel inyectors and stock fuel pump?
@@albertofriessen2315 none. You need larger injectors and a larger pump for sure
@@chrisedwards2624 witch inyectors would u recomend i use?
@@albertofriessen2315 Siemens 60lb if you plan to stick with pump gasoline or ID1050x if you plan to run E85.
good stuff brother! 👍
What exhaust? I love how quiet and decent it is even under boost.
Joe Blow 3” downpipe, and the outlet of the downpipe is vbanded into a 3” to 4” expander, then a custom 4” mandrel bent exhaust with a 36” long 4” Magnaflow muffler and then 4” all the way out the tailpipe. It was still a tad loud around town for my tastes, even though it sounds quiet going down the track. I ended up putting a small resonator before the muffler but that didn’t do much. On my next turbo truck I’d do a 3” exhaust and a boost activated or switch activated cutout off the downpipe.
I have a 5.3 Silverado that I want to make a reliable 500whp. How much (ballpark) would I need to spend to get that done considering some supporting mods and turbo setup?
If it was me, I'd budget about $10k. Think about it... even a cheap turbo kit is $3k. Then you'll need a transmission, and that's totally variable. Maybe you're extremely lucky and find a 4L80e on Craigslist for $500 that doesn't need a rebuild? If it does need a rebuild, factor another $1k in parts and labor (minimum). So now we're at ~$4500. You'll need a good torque converter. $500-1000 right there depending on how spendy you are. Then a good driveshaft, so $500 or so right there. So we're at ~$5500 and we're not done. You can't run 500whp through stock suspension and stock rear diff. You'll need a Trutrac and CalTracs. That's another $1k. So $6500. You'll need injectors and a fuel pump, at least $500 and that's if you go with cheap stuff. So $7000 so far and we haven't even gotten started with tuning or dyno time. And this is if you use the CHEAPEST stuff on the market. I'm sure others have done it even cheaper but I don't have any experience with that because I build it once and build it right so I don't have to do it over and over again.
@@chrisedwards2624 yeah I was thinking 8500 but yeah now that I’m thinking more about it I would say conservatively like 12000
@@michaelmastri651 I spent $15k on parts for this truck but I had a triple disc torque converter, E85 fuel system, rebuilt front diff, 5” Treadstone intercooler, etc so it adds up quick
I’m going turbo on my truck. I Did most of the things over time but still planning on budgeting on around 10k for just turbo kit 4l80 and bigger injectors. The rest is done. It’s best to do it right the first time and not have to spend double later down the road
Are your front axles stock ?? I’m doing a similar build and would like to know
Zachary Spurlock
Stock
Yes front axles and front diff are stock. I did replace the front axles with local parts store replacements when I first got the truck (before turbo), but otherwise the front end was perfect I never had an issue.
What head gasket are you running
GM LS9 gaskets
Truck looks great. What was the drop?
Suspension consists of QA1/Atomic front coilovers, rear consisted of Cal-Tracs, VAS shock relocation, QA1 double adjustable shocks, overload removed, Belltech hangers, Belltech shackles
How is that cam as a daily driver. Does it have low mid torque and HP
If you look at my other videos, the cam barely has a lope. Almost sounds like a stock cam. Therefore, it drives like a stock cam. I daily drove it so I didn't want to attract a lot of attention with a rowdy cam. Turbo motors don't need a lot of cam anyways.
What was the best yall ever got out of it?
Matt G 10.2 @ 135
@@chrisedwards2624 that sounds more like it!
How did you get the walbro 450 to work with the stock returnless fuel system?
It's a custom return style fuel system with twin Walbro 450's inside the factory bucket
how much power would you say its making?
It was making ~550rwhp/600rwtq here, the DA was was about 3000ft. It ended up going 10.91 @ 126 about a year later with a few twists of the boost controller and better air
How much did it weigh ?
4970lbs with driver and 1/2 tank of E85
@@chrisedwards2624 ouch, that's exactly why I like my 2wd lol that thing is a pig for sure, but still a decent time for the power and weight
@@beardedforlife3740 it’s all relative. Even rcsb 4x4 is a featherweight compared to a crewcab. Plus the 4x4 rapes on the street. 2wd doesn’t stand a chance unless it’s on a prepped surface and even then it’s a toss up. 4wd hooks on a boosted launch in the rain on Craigslist Michelin’s lol. I’ll take 4wd any day of the week!!!
whats up with the MPH? Very low to be boosted.
10lbs of boost, first shake-down passes, 3000ft DA middle of summer
Great video! Whats the HP?
In this video, 550rwhp/ 500rwtq. With no other changes besides twisting the boost controller, it made 730rwhp/670rwtq
What's the AR on the turbo?
.96ar
Edward Blackley full boost at what rpm?
Honestly I'm not sure. The truck makes peak power around 5500rpm.
You running stock transfer case as well?
And stock fron diff?
Yes stock transfer case with 32 spline input shaft to connect to 4L80e
Andy Rodriguez yes 100% stock front diff
@@chrisedwards2624 thank you so much for the fast reply! I have the same exact truck down to year with a 4/6 drop! On the launch do you press 2wd pr just do the whole run in 4hi or doesn't it disengage itself after a certain speed?
Andy Rodriguez 4hi the whole way. Don’t put back into 2wd until you’re coasting at the end of the run. Switching to 2wd at wot will ruin the transfer case
what did you do about the transfer case?
Case saver and 32 spline input shaft to mate it up with the 4L80e. The transfer cases on these trucks are extremely strong.
around how much did u spend in mods with labor and everything?
Quite a lot if you consider your average performance shop charges $100/ hr... God only knows LOL!
About $15k in parts and $10k for truck
That's still affordable compared to what these new Chevy trucks are going for with less power! Bad ass
@@chrisedwards2624 damn, you must have paid for top dollar stuff. I'm looking at a 900+hp build on mine and I don't think I'll crack 10k. I am however going to do most of the work myself so that does reduce a lot of cost
@@beardedforlife3740 I don’t use junk that’s for sure! Buy once, cry once. I insist on OEM functionality and driveability so no sloppy mechanics for me anywhere 🙌🏻
What kind of drop do you have in this video
QA1/Atomic front coilovers, rear consisted of Cal-Tracs, VAS shock relocation, QA1 double adjustable shocks, overload removed, Belltech hangers, Belltech shackles
@@chrisedwards2624 does removing the overload affect ride height? Also what did it 60' during this video?
@@KapenW17 Removing overload lowers truck maybe 1/2" - 3/4". It's necessary when you do the Cal-Tracs as the overload spring interferes with the traction bar. It doesn't really affect ride height but it does obviously reduce the payload of the truck dramatically. I didn't care because I only ever hauled wheels and tires and the payload was adequate for that. 60ft's in this video were 1.7 but once I got things figured out it would go 1.6x on these same Craigslist michelin tires. It would obviously have gone 1.4-1.5 with drag radials on all 4 corners but to me that defeats the purpose of 4wd.
@@chrisedwards2624 just got my z71 lowered this past week. And I'm ready for the cam swap and to get my 4l80e in. Thanks for the reply.
What gear is he running? stall
Stock GM 3.42 gears, Circle D 2800 stall, 31" tall tires (stock tire size)
this truck still for sale?
Sorry it sold very quickly, I regret selling it though
Dose anyone know what dose a ls2 timing change do to a fbo truck
LS2 timing chain is stronger than truck timing chain. They're cheap and you always replace the timing chain when you do a cam swap, that is why people use them.
how much boost are you running?
10lbs for this run. This is before the 5" intercooler upgrade. Truck has gone 10.91 @ 124.65 since then
:09 Who in the hell brought their shopping cart to the strip?
I think the truck lost the race.
Ya can't lose what ya never had! Neither one of us were racing, just testing.
Silverado's a dick for bumping in both beams first.
how come?
When you bump in both beams before the other guy gets his pre stage on, usually that tree starts a countdown of like 10 seconds or something like that that you have to bump in your pre stage. So basically it forces the other guy to rush in his pre stage, not giving him time to finish out what he does after his burnout.
Bow Yang Jam oh. I see
I was going to say the same thing... Total douche move... the Altered was still backing up
Altered obviously left on what shouldve been a pro tree. So he thought anyway.
How much boost were you running on this pass?
10lbs