This video and your MA-020 video helped me to install my front one way a few minutes ago. Thanks! One wheel rotates more freely than the other, but they're both pretty free. I'm not going to bellyache over it until I get new bearings.
Gamma00Ray thank you for leaving this comment, I love hearing that my videos have helped someone!! I wouldn’t worry too much about the one side spinning a little bit faster when free spinning, the oneway should break in over time and everything will work better. I have noticed that oneways have a bit of a break in period before they perform really smooth.
I had the exact same issue on my ma-020’s brand new one-way diff. In the beginning I thought the same thing as you said, that perhaps by breaking it through the grinding noise will go away. However it did not so I went ahead and investigated more in depth and actually found a solution. I used 2-3 spare shims that I had from my ball diff and that was it. I installed them on the right side of the diff (between the bearing and the diff) and that did the trick
@@alie5146 exactly. I recently experienced this once again on my second ma-020 and this time I had to place 2 shims on the differential. You should test which side the shims need to be installed, as if the gear mesh is too tight or too loose you will have this sound.
Haha yeah I got this issue fixed but I’m not very good at soldering. My hands shake way to much & it was a struggle to just get this one fixed. But hopefully I will get better with time.
@@BMR3 I get pretty bad shakes on occasion (not continually luckily) and try and avoid soldering during those times ut for when i cant i have found bracing my arms against the table and/or my hands has been effective as well as making sure the piece being soldered is secured. i have destroyed more than one drone due to shakes unfortunately in the end its all just practice and prep, TBH i think only 2-4 hours worth of soldering is all thats required to be confident in it
Thank you for sharing that man, I thought I was the only person who shook so badly it caused issues with soldering. No joke I almost freaked out when I was soldering because my hands have never shook like that, it was so bad I couldn’t maintain contact with the he solder joint long enough to hear it up. Finally I just cranked the iron all the way to max heat & braced my arm on the table like you said. I bearly did it, but still I did it :) kinda proud of myself. I need to get some cheep electronic toys I can take apart & practice soldering on.
@@BMR3 You want to get in and out fast, hotter temps are more than OK, the max temp is limited by whats around the tip (ie other stuff you may melt with the ambient temp) i am normally soldering at 350C but go to 400C when needed. a nice clean surface really helps, bit of steel wool will get rid of any oxidization and make everything easier. Once you take the skill out of the equation with tricks it really helps if you have tweezers that stay closed normally you can use them as a heatsink on whatever you are soldering which means everything is much more forgiving of mistakes. get in, do a quick job and then check the temp of everything surrounding before doing touch ups for soldering irons with a cord it may help if you run the cord over your shoulder, you dont want to feel the tension from the cable feeding it power, this is why i used to use gas soldering irons for so long (that and to do heat shrink) pretinning both the wire and the solder spot with solder really helps as well thats about most of the tips i have, just keep in mind your solder jobs dont have to be perfect, they just have to work.
I guess everyone shakes if they're not settled at the elbows or the forearms. Way too much going on in the elbows and shoulders to keep everything straight hanging up in the air when doing precision work. If your hands shake after settling your arms then it is what it is, but if you're not settling your arms, then it's not simply your hands shaking. It's your arms shaking. Glad to hear you got the wire back on. Hopefully it's soldered even more securely than stock.
Really helpful! I’m new to mini drifters and am wondering what the difference was between a front one way and solid axle system and a rear wheel drive system without a one way and all stock is?
RWD is completely different for AWD drifting & the ideas don’t necessarily transfer, so be careful when researching. For AWD it will come with “open” gear differentials stock, this type of differential allows the tires to spin at different rates . A gear differential is basically the same thing as a ball differential, the difference being a ball differential will allow you to adjust the tension/slip rate & it will be smoother then a gear differential. Next you have the one way differential, this is very similar to the gear differential, but it will only allow power in one direction (one way) while free spinning the opposite direction. Think of a bicycle, you petal forward but if try to petal backward nothing happens, this is what happens with a one way differential. For RC cars acts like an E-break since the front tires now free roll but you can hit the breaks to lock up the rear end. Finally you have a solid rear axle, this is ideally only used in the rear of the car & is also called a locked differential. Here we have the tires spinning at the exact same rate no matter what since the differential is welded together or is one solid piece. This is ideal for drifting since you will have the most consistent power delivered to your rear tires, & it will make the car more stable when drifting & more agile when transitioning. I hope this helps you out & thank you for the support brother!
@@BMR3 thanks!! I’m going to vouge for a one way then also I heard that the one way won’t fit in the k969 without the longer shafts any ideas where I can buy these or instead what I can use to ship the shaft so it fits?
Hello, which freewheel reference did you put? A Kyosho MDW017? I wanted to put one on my MA030 EVO and it is too wide: 29mm while the original differential is 27mm, the gimbals do not fit well, do you have a solution please? Léo
Yo BMR as a subscriber your videos are very informative and helpful I know this is a late comment to this content but can you please show some of your drifting with the cars I don't think I have seen you once,no disrespect just like to see some driving of your cars
I'm not sure as I don't have a speed checker & I never run the cars flat out. The major difference I noticed was with regard to heat & run time, the motor produces almost no heat after a session & the run time is noticeably longer
Just got the ma-020s Celica and the body is awesome, do you think the brushless from the Evo can fit? Even if it need soldering mostly if the motor fits
Hello, below is a link to the Kyosho website that lists all of the bodies & their specifications/compatibility. The Celica is listed as not being FWD so it will not work with a ma-030Evo. But if you can find a ma-020ve then you could use it with a brushless set up. Hope this helps! kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/
Wait are you asking if you can fit a brushless motor in your 020s? If so, the motor will fit but it won’t work. The brushless cars have a different board from the stock brushed sports models. You can always buy a brushless board like the one I linked below. Then all you need to do is swap the board/servo then you could plug in a brushless motor & off you go. www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-RC-Unit-Set-MA-020VE-PRORA-35_p_46202.html
B P anytime man, im happy to help. Yeah I would suggest getting a 030Evo since the chassis will be around the same cost of that board + a brushless motor. Plus the ma-030 performs really really good, you will love it I’m sure. I thought about getting one of the new 4x4 but I’m not much into crawlers yet, maybe next year or something. Oh yeah, Kyosho is producing another set of 030Evo chassis right now & I heard they should be back in stock around May-ish. Just wanted to give you a heads up since they sell out so quickly.
So it's not worth buying this chassis? The standard motor is not suitable for drifting? I think it is already too expensive to have to change the engine, it is a pity that you can not play adrift with the red engine or maybe playing it in training mode! Do you still recommend buying this chassis for drift or do I stay with the engine brushed? I have a MA020! Best regards!
Yo BMR are the screws not countersunk? Bit worrying if not i would change that haha! And also what about shims to clear the screwheads too tight?, that wire situation is shit! Make sure you use flux or solder with flux already inside, make sure its the rosin version of the 2 types or your bound a failure in the future at the wrong f...ing time as per usual haha
Hey man, nope the screws on the differentials are not counter sunk, they look like a button sitting on top... its weird because I have never had an issue with the diff rubbing like this before. & no there wasent enough room to shim, my front diff housing is super tight. But it’s fine, everything is running smooth now that’s it’s all broke in. Thank you for the tip on soldering! I’m a rookie but I have pop my cherry. I went down to the local hardware store & they hooked me up with some high quality computer solder with rosin core, I think it was 60/40. Anyways I toned up the soldering iron, and the guy suggested I just heat up the existing solder and drop the wire in on when it heats up. It’s a ghetto fix but it worked! I’ll try to put up a video next week reviewing these upgrades. I freaking LOVE this new motor & the Oneway makes a world of difference with my driving style. The car is getting dialed in & im loving it!!
@@BMR3 great to hear shes back up and running and sweet too! Well said with heating the original solder, i came across a deal a few weaks back got the fhss ma020 initial d ae86 and a ae86 gtv but its white😱 if you fancy a laugh check out my quick ghetto repair after smashing my rear knuckle😂, Next for me is a transmitter upgrade then brushless i think! But have you seen the new crawler from kyosho just as i was about to go cheap ass on chinese stuff they drop that😂
EFARACING brushless is the way to go! My brushed cars get so freaking hot, but this new 4100kv barely gets warm when drifting, it’s awesome! The the run times are crazy What transmitter are you looking at? I highly recommend the Kt432pt but the FlySky NB4 looks pretty amazing as well for evo cars. I have seen the 4x4 but I’m not into crawling yet. It looks interesting but I think I’m going to save my hobby budget & get another ma-030Evo. Kyosho said they should have a new batch ready around May & I would love to build a drift semi truck with a lexan body. I couldn’t find the video you are referring to on you channel, all I see displayed are video games.
@@BMR3 ive used brushless for planes but not cars! But they are good i know that one, i think im going for the kt432pt but flysky do make a few good products so i dont know yet😂, A semi truck sounds an interesting move i would like to see that one, what do you prefer carpet or hard surface for drifting? My bad! It should be in a playlist of 3 or 4 videos, i like sim racing with a wheel and the other bits to complete it haha! i basically use the channel to handle the disputes in the races😂
Hey bmr so I put a one way diff on my ma030 and it feels like it grinds and looses power I can’t seem to find anything online about this problem can you help!
Check to see if the screws are rubbing on the differential house. I had that problem & there is a video here on the channel going over the issue & fixing it. I think it’s called “diagnosing front one way issue” or something like that.
That’s rough! I dont think the wire layout is was Kyosho’s best idea, I have noticed mine get squished by the shell when I put it on the chassis. Constantly smashing down the wires takes a toll on the solder joint.
Hello & thank you for the kind words! I chose to switch to the 4100kv motor for efficiency. The 4100kv motor is much better suited for low rpm drifting & produces much less heat then the stock 8500kv motor. The 4100kv is perfect in my opinion for drifting, I love it!!
Agreed. The sound went away within minutes of drifting the car. I just wanted to polish the screw heads heads to make sure there were no sharp edges catching. She is working beautifully :) I love this car so freaking much!
BMR 3 Great haha! Also, I don’t recommend blasting the gears with compressed air as the smaller particles of dust can get pushed into the crevices of the gears, causing build up over time. I recommend a wide paint brush for brushing off dust, works brilliantly and is cheap. (learnt that from touring racers)
This video and your MA-020 video helped me to install my front one way a few minutes ago. Thanks! One wheel rotates more freely than the other, but they're both pretty free. I'm not going to bellyache over it until I get new bearings.
Gamma00Ray thank you for leaving this comment, I love hearing that my videos have helped someone!!
I wouldn’t worry too much about the one side spinning a little bit faster when free spinning, the oneway should break in over time and everything will work better. I have noticed that oneways have a bit of a break in period before they perform really smooth.
I had the exact same issue on my ma-020’s brand new one-way diff. In the beginning I thought the same thing as you said, that perhaps by breaking it through the grinding noise will go away. However it did not so I went ahead and investigated more in depth and actually found a solution. I used 2-3 spare shims that I had from my ball diff and that was it. I installed them on the right side of the diff (between the bearing and the diff) and that did the trick
So then the grinding noise is from the gears not meshing perfectly?
@@alie5146 exactly. I recently experienced this once again on my second ma-020 and this time I had to place 2 shims on the differential. You should test which side the shims need to be installed, as if the gear mesh is too tight or too loose you will have this sound.
I had the same problem with the screws on the front differential but, I just carefully tightened the screws harder. Everything turned out perfectly.
The soldering gets easier, i ended up doing the soldering for 2 separate rc cars today and swapped out a bunch of battery connectors. I love my TS80
Haha yeah I got this issue fixed but I’m not very good at soldering. My hands shake way to much & it was a struggle to just get this one fixed. But hopefully I will get better with time.
@@BMR3 I get pretty bad shakes on occasion (not continually luckily) and try and avoid soldering during those times ut for when i cant i have found bracing my arms against the table and/or my hands has been effective as well as making sure the piece being soldered is secured.
i have destroyed more than one drone due to shakes unfortunately
in the end its all just practice and prep, TBH i think only 2-4 hours worth of soldering is all thats required to be confident in it
Thank you for sharing that man, I thought I was the only person who shook so badly it caused issues with soldering. No joke I almost freaked out when I was soldering because my hands have never shook like that, it was so bad I couldn’t maintain contact with the he solder joint long enough to hear it up. Finally I just cranked the iron all the way to max heat & braced my arm on the table like you said. I bearly did it, but still I did it :) kinda proud of myself.
I need to get some cheep electronic toys I can take apart & practice soldering on.
@@BMR3 You want to get in and out fast, hotter temps are more than OK, the max temp is limited by whats around the tip (ie other stuff you may melt with the ambient temp) i am normally soldering at 350C but go to 400C when needed. a nice clean surface really helps, bit of steel wool will get rid of any oxidization and make everything easier. Once you take the skill out of the equation with tricks it really helps
if you have tweezers that stay closed normally you can use them as a heatsink on whatever you are soldering which means everything is much more forgiving of mistakes. get in, do a quick job and then check the temp of everything surrounding before doing touch ups
for soldering irons with a cord it may help if you run the cord over your shoulder, you dont want to feel the tension from the cable feeding it power, this is why i used to use gas soldering irons for so long (that and to do heat shrink)
pretinning both the wire and the solder spot with solder really helps as well
thats about most of the tips i have, just keep in mind your solder jobs dont have to be perfect, they just have to work.
I guess everyone shakes if they're not settled at the elbows or the forearms. Way too much going on in the elbows and shoulders to keep everything straight hanging up in the air when doing precision work. If your hands shake after settling your arms then it is what it is, but if you're not settling your arms, then it's not simply your hands shaking. It's your arms shaking.
Glad to hear you got the wire back on. Hopefully it's soldered even more securely than stock.
Really helpful! I’m new to mini drifters and am wondering what the difference was between a front one way and solid axle system and a rear wheel drive system without a one way and all stock is?
RWD is completely different for AWD drifting & the ideas don’t necessarily transfer, so be careful when researching.
For AWD it will come with “open” gear differentials stock, this type of differential allows the tires to spin at different rates . A gear differential is basically the same thing as a ball differential, the difference being a ball differential will allow you to adjust the tension/slip rate & it will be smoother then a gear differential.
Next you have the one way differential, this is very similar to the gear differential, but it will only allow power in one direction (one way) while free spinning the opposite direction. Think of a bicycle, you petal forward but if try to petal backward nothing happens, this is what happens with a one way differential. For RC cars acts like an E-break since the front tires now free roll but you can hit the breaks to lock up the rear end.
Finally you have a solid rear axle, this is ideally only used in the rear of the car & is also called a locked differential. Here we have the tires spinning at the exact same rate no matter what since the differential is welded together or is one solid piece. This is ideal for drifting since you will have the most consistent power delivered to your rear tires, & it will make the car more stable when drifting & more agile when transitioning.
I hope this helps you out & thank you for the support brother!
@@BMR3 thanks!! I’m going to vouge for a one way then also I heard that the one way won’t fit in the k969 without the longer shafts any ideas where I can buy these or instead what I can use to ship the shaft so it fits?
what is part number for the one way diff? is it mdw017?
Yep that’s the one. You can also look into cheeper alternatives but I prefer the Kyosho factory brand.
Hello, which freewheel reference did you put? A Kyosho MDW017? I wanted to put one on my MA030 EVO and it is too wide: 29mm while the original differential is 27mm, the gimbals do not fit well, do you have a solution please? Léo
Yo BMR as a subscriber your videos are very informative and helpful I know this is a late comment to this content but can you please show some of your drifting with the cars I don't think I have seen you once,no disrespect just like to see some driving of your cars
😹 you haven’t watched many of my videos if you haven’t seen me sliding. This is one of my favorites: ruclips.net/video/309GZW2tHxI/видео.html
Thank you for the support brother, have a wonderful day!
@@BMR3 thanks for sharing... my bad
@@bazmack4697 no worries at all brother! I have a tone of videos so it’s easy to miss the sliding ones.
what was your speed with the old motor and then with the new motor?
I'm not sure as I don't have a speed checker & I never run the cars flat out. The major difference I noticed was with regard to heat & run time, the motor produces almost no heat after a session & the run time is noticeably longer
Cool lo-fi beats
Thanks bro! Your the first person to mention the beats 😸 I think they sounds great as well
BMR 3 nah man thank you, I just bought a ma030evo and your videos are very informative
@@ricardocorona43 Awesome! you picked up a great platform, i love the 030Evo. Let me know if you run into any issues
Just got the ma-020s Celica and the body is awesome, do you think the brushless from the Evo can fit? Even if it need soldering mostly if the motor fits
Hello, below is a link to the Kyosho website that lists all of the bodies & their specifications/compatibility. The Celica is listed as not being FWD so it will not work with a ma-030Evo. But if you can find a ma-020ve then you could use it with a brushless set up. Hope this helps!
kyosho.com/mini-z-info/support/body-specifications/
Wait are you asking if you can fit a brushless motor in your 020s? If so, the motor will fit but it won’t work. The brushless cars have a different board from the stock brushed sports models.
You can always buy a brushless board like the one I linked below. Then all you need to do is swap the board/servo then you could plug in a brushless motor & off you go.
www.kenonhobby.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-RC-Unit-Set-MA-020VE-PRORA-35_p_46202.html
@@BMR3 yep that's what I was asking, might just try that. Just want that down low power, but don't really want to buy a new chassis yet
Unless I can find cheaper might aswell get the evo3. I'll wait on that till I get one of the new off-road Jimmy first, thanks for the reply
B P anytime man, im happy to help.
Yeah I would suggest getting a 030Evo since the chassis will be around the same cost of that board + a brushless motor. Plus the ma-030 performs really really good, you will love it I’m sure.
I thought about getting one of the new 4x4 but I’m not much into crawlers yet, maybe next year or something.
Oh yeah, Kyosho is producing another set of 030Evo chassis right now & I heard they should be back in stock around May-ish. Just wanted to give you a heads up since they sell out so quickly.
So it's not worth buying this chassis? The standard motor is not suitable for drifting? I think it is already too expensive to have to change the engine, it is a pity that you can not play adrift with the red engine or maybe playing it in training mode! Do you still recommend buying this chassis for drift or do I stay with the engine brushed? I have a MA020! Best regards!
Yo BMR are the screws not countersunk? Bit worrying if not i would change that haha! And also what about shims to clear the screwheads too tight?, that wire situation is shit! Make sure you use flux or solder with flux already inside, make sure its the rosin version of the 2 types or your bound a failure in the future at the wrong f...ing time as per usual haha
Hey man, nope the screws on the differentials are not counter sunk, they look like a button sitting on top... its weird because I have never had an issue with the diff rubbing like this before. & no there wasent enough room to shim, my front diff housing is super tight. But it’s fine, everything is running smooth now that’s it’s all broke in.
Thank you for the tip on soldering! I’m a rookie but I have pop my cherry. I went down to the local hardware store & they hooked me up with some high quality computer solder with rosin core, I think it was 60/40. Anyways I toned up the soldering iron, and the guy suggested I just heat up the existing solder and drop the wire in on when it heats up. It’s a ghetto fix but it worked!
I’ll try to put up a video next week reviewing these upgrades. I freaking LOVE this new motor & the Oneway makes a world of difference with my driving style. The car is getting dialed in & im loving it!!
@@BMR3 great to hear shes back up and running and sweet too! Well said with heating the original solder, i came across a deal a few weaks back got the fhss ma020 initial d ae86 and a ae86 gtv but its white😱 if you fancy a laugh check out my quick ghetto repair after smashing my rear knuckle😂,
Next for me is a transmitter upgrade then brushless i think! But have you seen the new crawler from kyosho just as i was about to go cheap ass on chinese stuff they drop that😂
EFARACING brushless is the way to go! My brushed cars get so freaking hot, but this new 4100kv barely gets warm when drifting, it’s awesome! The the run times are crazy
What transmitter are you looking at? I highly recommend the Kt432pt but the FlySky NB4 looks pretty amazing as well for evo cars.
I have seen the 4x4 but I’m not into crawling yet. It looks interesting but I think I’m going to save my hobby budget & get another ma-030Evo. Kyosho said they should have a new batch ready around May & I would love to build a drift semi truck with a lexan body.
I couldn’t find the video you are referring to on you channel, all I see displayed are video games.
@@BMR3 ive used brushless for planes but not cars! But they are good i know that one, i think im going for the kt432pt but flysky do make a few good products so i dont know yet😂,
A semi truck sounds an interesting move i would like to see that one, what do you prefer carpet or hard surface for drifting?
My bad! It should be in a playlist of 3 or 4 videos, i like sim racing with a wheel and the other bits to complete it haha! i basically use the channel to handle the disputes in the races😂
Hey bmr so I put a one way diff on my ma030 and it feels like it grinds and looses power I can’t seem to find anything online about this problem can you help!
Check to see if the screws are rubbing on the differential house. I had that problem & there is a video here on the channel going over the issue & fixing it. I think it’s called “diagnosing front one way issue” or something like that.
@@BMR3 thanks man your channel really helped me build my mini z’s.
Version for RWD possible?
What do you mean? This motor will work with the mr-03evo, it comes stock on one of the variants.
i got 3 wire pop off!
That’s rough! I dont think the wire layout is was Kyosho’s best idea, I have noticed mine get squished by the shell when I put it on the chassis. Constantly smashing down the wires takes a toll on the solder joint.
Why did you change the engine? for speed for noise or for another reason? I ask to know !! a hug friend
Hello & thank you for the kind words! I chose to switch to the 4100kv motor for efficiency. The 4100kv motor is much better suited for low rpm drifting & produces much less heat then the stock 8500kv motor.
The 4100kv is perfect in my opinion for drifting, I love it!!
Ok it is less powerful in top speed and better in terms of short or accelerating revolution, interesting! thanks for answering
@@BMR3 Ok it is less powerful in top speed and better in terms of short or accelerating revolution, interesting! thanks for answering
yuliux72 yep that’s spot on, it’s a little bit slower but speed is not needed for drifting. This motor is perfect for drifting
I couldn’t care less about the sound in my front one way lol, just leave it and it’ll go away in one session (its my type of session so 2-3 hours)
Agreed. The sound went away within minutes of drifting the car. I just wanted to polish the screw heads heads to make sure there were no sharp edges catching. She is working beautifully :) I love this car so freaking much!
BMR 3 Great haha! Also, I don’t recommend blasting the gears with compressed air as the smaller particles of dust can get pushed into the crevices of the gears, causing build up over time. I recommend a wide paint brush for brushing off dust, works brilliantly and is cheap. (learnt that from touring racers)
Thanks for the tip man! Sorry for the delayed response, I’ll look into getting a specialty paint brush for dusting.