No one should be using OpenAuto Pro, and you absolutely shouldn't be giving them publicity. Why? Because the developers are scumbags. OpenAuto is GPLv3. This means that any project based off of it MUST also be GPLv3. Which means that the source code MUST be provided when software is distributed. OpenAuto Pro "...is an extended version of OpenAuto..." But it has an entirely different license, and BlueWave Studio will not release their source. github.com/f1xpl/openauto/wiki/OpenAuto-Pro That is not OK. You cannot closed source a GPLv3 project just because you don't want other people to redistribute it. The WHOLE POINT of a copy-left license is that other people can view/change/redistribute stuff. In-fact, GPLv3 literally allows YOU to sell copies, or make any changes you want to THEIR software (as long as you indicate your changes, and your release is also GPLv3).
@@everythingcool101 No. Nothing like that. They have a project that was released with an open license. This license legally requires them to do things, and forbids them from doing other things. Yet, they are doing the things they aren't allowed to do, and NOT doing things they ARE required to do. It's a perfect example of fucking up an open license. It's not about the money. It's about the obligations that come with being open. And what happens when you ignore all those obligations.
How a complete build in detail from scratch to build the head-unit in several videos would be handy . detailing all connections, software, adding different module and setting up, especially things like 4way audio, radio tuner, cameras, etc
@@Gummibri yes i get that some can bus data and fitting will be different but the main build of head-unit, and setting up will be the same, setting up things like radio, screen, camera inputs, canbus inputs, aux audio inputs, power supply, etc etc
I wouldn't suggest this to most people, but you're nerdy enough. You should drop a CAN-BUS Tx/Rx into the mix (there's even a great hat for the Pi). You can then access the car's data bus directly, and gain control over everything, including environmental, and any other electronics in the car (steering wheel controls!). The accessible OBD-2 ports block a lot of data and are largely read-only. With a performance car like your WRX, you'd get gobs of awesome data straight from the ECM. It also has the added benefit of being able to wire into the stock wiring harness nice and clean. You may have to Wireshark your bus to sniff the variables for awhile and map them, but totally, totally worth it.
@@LeahleahB You can see all your cars data such as fuel, oil, pressure, temp, speed, errors, warnings etc and also directly control things as you would from your steering wheel or other areas (tripometer, cruise, lights etc) - this hooks directly onto pi - Wireshark gives you the variable names- people use this to TUNE their cars for more performance - theoretically you could control this sort of stuff as you drive via your pi - increase fuel / air mixture and create your own custom sports modes.
SSD is absolutely recommended especially when you use Android Auto. After a few weeks of use I had serious reliability issues with SD cards (system was not booting up or only after multiple attempts)... No such issues after installing an SSD.
My 1tb external ssd drive takes like 2 minutes to mount on my chinese android head unit. Do you have this issue? After two minutes it finally says mounting external storage then it works.
I've been playing with streaming music for years in the car. I first mounted an old tablet, which worked for 2 years until the screen died from the heat (touch screen connections pulled off). This let me know that only quality LCDs should be used. I've been running an RPI (3?) with Openauto Pro in the car for years now with the official 7" RPI screen, and it's worked very well except when Google updates their software and it breaks for a little bit. Great to see this video about it. Very nice!
I learned to things from this video. #1 this is a huge project and i probably wont be able tp do it for a long time. #2 your incredibly smart and i appreciate the time you quality of your videos.
I was about to mention about touch screens being really bad for volume control when you mentioned it. Another thought would be to rig up a jog shuttle/switch instead of a basic volume control so that when you are in the map view it could allow you to pan and zoom around the map view without having to drag the map via the screen.
@novaspirittech this is my very 1st video I watched on your channel. Great stuff, I won't be a stranger. @gordon861 I'm going to spring board off your idea. Would it be possible to create a nob dedicated to the low frequency cutoff? Like a high pass/low pass filter triggered through the raspberry unit? Or would it have to be more of an amp control switch? This had me thinking.
So cool! I'll be super keen to also add reverse camera. 360 degree camera, DVR, 3G. Possibilities are endless with such a cool custom build! Gonna keep tuned to this
I've managed to get FM running on a Pi using one of those cheap $10 SDR dongles that have the RTL2832U chipset. That chipset is probably the most commonly used and supported chipset for SDR devices on the Pi.
@@iamadistunguishedexp the RTL-SDR is designed as a DAB tuner and is hacked to be an SDR. To get SDR functionality, usually you have to blacklist the DAB driver module and install the SDR module (if it isn't already installed).
Awesom Work! 👍👍👍 Yes, "car computers". It's too much a luxury to own a car in Singapore, never thought I would enjoy watching something like this, until now.
Bravo! Simple and effective. I like how you approached the safe shutdown and parasitic draw issues. Would like to hear more on audio quality. On my setup, I'm now only using the USB sound card for mic input. I installed a PCM1502a dac for sound out which has much better sound quality. I've seen some guys using HiFiBerry for the same thing.
thank you! i haven't tested much with audio quality yet, only played a few song it sounds a little flat to me but i'm pretty sure the eq can fix that. i'll let you know more on my follow up video.
@@davidb741 it can be if you use an outboard a corn outboard DSP combo amp like those from audiocontrol. but there are plenty of other options out there
Audio quality is my big concern right now as well. It doesn’t seem to be discussed very often. Looking forward to seeing what you think about it in future videos.
Not going to lie... I was going to call you out so hard about the VPN service claiming to not keep logs. However, after doing research into them on my own, PIA really doesn't keep logs of any type. I must say, I was wrong and this was a great sponsor shoutout. Thanks for the link, bro! Great video on the Pi head unit as well. I've been waiting for a few months now for someone to drop this so I can follow along and install one in my Nismo RS. Just liked and sub'd, thank you thank you!! :)
You may want to put a little delay on the relay to turn on the relay. Reason for this is because when you start the car you'll get accessory feed for a few seconds, lose it while cranking the engine and get it back once the key is released from the start position. Basically causing the Pi to start booting, get interrupted and then start booting again
@@NovaspiritTech Might even consider doing a longer delay. I have looked down this rabbit hole and considered scripts so when I pull in at home, it can connect to home wifi. Sync music/media for awhile while the car is off and have the shut down script let that happen for 15-30 minutes or so. This would also give you coverage for like "stopping to get gas, running in the store to grab a soda or something." just long enough that quick stops don't make you wait for head unit to boot. granted, the pi4 isn't the slowest boot either lol. not like back in the day of a car PC taking a solid minute.
nice project I created a custom Android Auto setup using a budget Lenovo tablet. To optimize it for in-car use, I made several modifications: Removed the battery and replaced it with a DC-DC converter for direct power Added cooling improvements with a heatsink and fan Designed and 3D printed a custom back panel to house all components Installed a small Bluetooth module connected to the ignition The system automates itself using MacroDroid software. When the tablet detects the Bluetooth signal: Screen turns on WiFi enables Head Unit Reloaded software launches When Bluetooth disconnects: All apps close WiFi disabled Screen turns off to conserve power
Hell yeah a tech channel and car channel. Will go together. I picked up a raspberry pi cuz I'm interested in learning a little bit more about PCS programming, coding, networking and all the other little things that are involved with it LOL. Not trying to be some mad computer scientist but I do have an interest in it. All of that because I have a love for cars and I want to understand the electrical system a little better. I have two cars that are from 1988 very little Electronics in them. So making the stereo out of a Raspberry Pi is dope. I'm also interested in a GPS for the cars made out of a Raspberry Pi. The ECU in my 88 Chevy is tunable and I would like to make something out of the Raspberry Pi to get live readings of the ECU. The reason I want to use the Raspberry Pi is because a laptop is just too big. If I can make something like that the more than likely I would just mount it in the dash with a 7-10in IPS touchscreen display. So yeah the 2 channels would work. If anything I want I want to is is possible and you know let me know.
I have to ask do you actually put in these pre equalized settings in the firmware or is that someone else that requested and for what reason do they always put a horrible EQ curve into these cars that quite literally no one else wants lol
@@MickeyMishra I have not worked on audio or entertainment functions. I have no clue how much audio filtering there's going on on our systems, except for user there's just two settins "bass" and "treble". If there's some hidden EQ, I guess the profile for that comes from the OEM (the car manufacturer), or some other supplier who is paid to do the tweaking for the OEM.
I would add a forward AND reverse cam for those times when you have to park and there is virtually no room. As an even better solution, you might want to get a recording front and reverse cam to record what happens to your car when you are away from it.
This is fantastic! Thank you for posting it. I have started building mine but have come across a couple of things I need to add or change. When it has been posted I can’t wait to see your schematic and script for the relays, that’s one thing I am missing. I can help you navigate the custom obd gauges and pid’s as I have set them up for my car.
::Shows cardboard box:: “It’s a really nice box. I might upgrade this later, add some LEDs, and a fan for exhaust.” You should be selling houses! Anyway, great video, really informative. I was thinking about the heat. Maybe flipping it, putting the amp on top and the raspi on the bottom. Also maybe putting the, on separate panels. Like add a second plate to the very bottom of he frame and put the raspi there. Heat sinks should always be aiming upward too.
I would be curious how it stands up to extreme vehicle temps in the midst of summer of like Arizona. I've done a tablet head unit install in the past and no model holds up and overheats. I'd even put a cover on it.
if you build it right your display for your Raspberry Pi will conk out before the Raspberry Pi will. especially if you mounted in a location like underneath the seat or in the trunk area or someplace where there's more air flow that is needed to cooling down the chipset, it will be able to keep up far better than some head units. due to all the HVAC and other items that are there underneath the dash and the fact that it usually doesn't have very good ventilation heat gets trapped especially when you use a full size double DIN stereo. there just isn't very much ventilation for the amplifier and the components back there. however with the way he has his system setup , with that cooler being involved and cooled by the Raspberry Pi itself the only modification I would make for temperate climates would be to mount the amplifier on top and the Raspberry Pi on the bottom. in all actuality it's not going to make that much of a difference but that's the only suggestion I would make if running in the configuration that he has it in. I often had problems with my phone overheating and shutting down while I was in California so I just basically bought a white Samsung S3 and that's pretty much all I had to do. every once in awhile I would get a battery temperature warning that it would not charge but other than that I didn't really have any problems with it shutting down and I use that as my main source unit for my audio in my van for over a year. for the rest of you that have Double-Din head units trying not using the audio amplifier on board and use the RCA outs to an outboard amplifier or you can mount in a cool place and install a fan for air flow. if nothing else you can do what I had to do a while ago in a very special build where I had to install tubing and a PC fan to the back of the head unit and extra fans on the back of the head unit and with an exhaust that was tapped into the HVAC system or exited out of one of the vents. that was Overkill but there's always a solution
Nice job. The menus seem quite slow and laggy though, probably due to the SD card. I'd definitely recommend booting and running the OS from a USB 3 HDD or ideally an SSD. Also, given how unreliable SD cards are (especially in RPIs) you'll probably find yourself needing to remove the unit to replace it at some point anyway.
I used a UPS hat instead of a relay setup. I got a buck converter to take the 12v accessory from my truck and put it down to 5v 3a on two separate usbc cables. The UPS automatically turns on the pi. Also the UPS is able to do a safe shutdown of the pi when power is lost (when I turn the car off). And it holds time on the pi!
@@NovaspiritTech yep...Dev board is not bad but who know what the next pi will bring to the table(my suggestion - keep it upgrade able)....Any way as you said in the video just iterate until you love it !
Awesome, man! i've been thinking about making a build like this myself, was holding back and waiting for a properly working android build for Pi. I haven't found a head unit for my car that i'd actually like for almost 10 years now. thats frustrating that you have to build something yourself to make it actually good. My plan was to not use a built in amp, since my speakers are powered by an amp anyway. And i'd like to find a proper good sounding sound card for the pi, and one thing i have to solve is that i definitely need a rotary volume switch and maybe couple of buttons for next and previous tracks.
I like your project! Looks great. Did you consider extending the front out so you could mount a much larger screen? You could also add standoff's to raise the raspberry pi up a few mm to assist with heat dissipation. If you need to adjust the base plate to allow for the height, you can add side 'wings' and lower the base plate and use the wings as new attachment points to the double din metal frame. The wings could be 3d printed and glued or screwed to the base plate, then tapped and screwed to the metal frame. This would give you whatever height you might need and allow for better heat dissipation. You might even add a layer of insulation between the pi and the base plate to protect the plastic. Perhaps drill some ventilation holes in the base plate to assist with airflow, even making a back plate for the lower area and add an intake fan, and add an exhaust fan up high to get that airflow. Again, with standoffs, if you have holes drilled below the pi, the flowpath will have cooler air pulled in from below, then up through the holes, thus cooling the back of the pi, then out the top or the back plate. It would require 2 more fans, but you could easily run much larger fans - even perhaps have them controlled by the pi with a couple of temperature thermocouple's/sensors placed wherever you think best - It should be no big deal to add fan speed profiles etc... Good stuff! Call me impressed.
OpenAuto rear-view defaults to the Raspberry Pi Camera (with the flat ribbon cable connector). There's a Pi-KVM project that recommends TC358743 boards for HDMI to pi-camera port. Then you can chain it with a cheap composite to HDMI converter. It's a bit roundabout, but probably the easiest solution.
I was looking on Amazon for a second monitor for my head unit and saw that they make mini HD I displays for Pi. Did a quick search on YT and landed on your video. I really like this build. This is great! This auto pc has serious potential. If I still have trouble with my Pioneer MH1700NEX, I think I'll try building my own micro pc like this. I might go with a 10inch screen though, if it'll fit nicely.
do you not need an isolated power supply for the pi to avoid ground audio interference?? Im guessing you will run into a buzz sound or a high noise floor.... you can fix that by isolating the power supply for the audio source from the amp..
Looking forward to find out how to get FM radio working with this. However I am wounding if the audio has the ability to fade between front and rear speakers. Or does the amp only have one left and right signal instead of front L/R and rear L/R.
I'm planning some sort of variation on this. I've bought a Rockpi4c, and a 128gb NVME drive, 7 inch screen, USB GPS Receiver and running Android 10 on that. For the radio, i'm planning to put a 4g dongle and use something like TuneIn or similar. And on the audio side, maybe the correct thing to do is just using a decent sound card, and rely on a cheap nice sounding car stereo hidden somewhere else. Another way to do it, is using a toslink output, and put a multichannel micro amp with DSP like the Match PP 86DSP, Mosconi D2 100.4 DSP, or one of the many chinese amps with the same functionalities.
How is the audio for calls? One major issue with so many after-market head units are the terrible audio quality for calls (and many cause feedback between the speakers & mic) - if this solution can bring 'first class' audio when driving, then this is a huge game changer! Also, have you figured out if this can handle steering wheel controls?
@@NovaspiritTech Perfect I just need to find someone to print it. That is a machine I do not have at the moment. I also need to get a custom face plate made as well. Huge gaps around the 7" screen and my dash kit. You have a 3D printer you recommend?
@@NovaspiritTech Just posted the files to the local library. They do the print for $.06 a gram. Better then buying printer at this time. I am looking at them though. I am thinking the Ender 5 pro.
That is neat! I little bit of warning about peeling the plastic off of the screen is(or any other electronic for that matter), make sure that the system is shut down. and disconnected. The chances might be low but the static electricity from peeling the plastic off can damage your system.(Dont ask how I know)
Wow, what a nice random find. I had almost the same idea, and I have almost the same car (sportswagon). As soon as I saw the plastic center console on your desk I was like "hold on a minute". Anyway, my idea was to have a dual screen setup, one like you did but also a smaller one mounted to the other side so I could have closer access to controls but also I could keep like Navi up and still play a movie or something along those lines.
Nice setup. It looks very professional. I am curious as to why you chose to have the amplifier at the bottom instead of on top since it is the biggest source of heat. Isn't it unnecessarily heating up the Raspberry Pi and other components?
that is subjected to change, the current configurations fits perfectlly in the cubby, if i had the amp on top,, i'm also use the plate to be in the middle so it can push up on my screen so can't really move down the whole assembly, might need a redesign
Very nice work on your build. If its running warm you could mod one your vent ducks inside to blow down with little hole inside to help keep cool if your running your a/c or such.
THAT IS SICK DUDE i had an idea to make kind of an mp3 box with a pi and one of those cheap 3.5 touchscreen cases but power it from cig lighter and hook it to aux for the ride. but you doin big things
Sorry Im late to the party but mausberry circuits has a power board specifically for running you Pi off of an ignition source. Then you can program it to gracefully shut down your Pi. The cool thing is , you can program it to turn off the Pi after the car is turned off, for instance I have mine turn off about 30 mins after I turn off the car so if I just make a quick trip into the store it will not need to boot again.
This is so cool, thanks for posting this and can't wait to see what's next. I bought a rock pi to try doing this before the pi 4 came out but unfortunately due to lack of software and some breaking the as slot off when it dropped on the floor, I was unable to complete that. Might give it another shot however using this setup.
Can you theoretically use second and third screens on the same pi to run separate programs? I’m going to run stuff for my dash cluster and want everything to be in sync and very sleek looking.
Ok so the amp for the speakers since you are only using headphone out you only have left and right am I correct? You will not get Fade and Balance, it would be one or the other. Just got the AMP in and haven't tested anything since I am lacking some parts still.
Loved building this , so thanks for all the info Has anyone who has built one had any issues with audio crackling ( quite loud ) Used pretty much same parts as in video ( I have looked through forums )
If you have any issues with it keeping it cool you could always use the ac ducts above. I would 3D print some small tubing and adapted to the Ducs above so that way it blows cool air on the Raspberry Pi. But you have to figure a way to shut off the airflow during the winter the heater is not blowing on it
What was the logic behind making a flat piece of plastic out of PLA from a 3d printer to mount the PI on, Would it not have been a much faster and simpler option to cut out the desired shape out of a existing flat sheet of material like delrin or acrylic, and simply drill holes as needed
I'm interested in the Audio section. I am wondering how the balance/fader works when there is only a Left and Right output into either 1 x 4 channel or 2 x 2 channel amps. Have you tackled this problem yet?
I’d have to look at the dimensions and power input spec, but HifiBerry has their BeoCreate amp board that’s equipped with overkill levels of audio DSP for the amps. they’re $250 ish but take 12v input and powers itself and a pi.
it's perfect for to channel operation however in a car automotive environment I wouldn't necessarily use this device for high quality sound for obvious reasons mainly being that it's only two channel. there is a 4-channel option and that is a little bit better but you really need about six channels minimum as you are going to want to run fully active. I just go with the standard Automotive dspp which can be bought from anywhere from 99 to around $1,000 depending on what you're going for but the average cost to get into the game is about three hundred bucks. Dayton audio makes a pretty good unit that is pretty much plug-and-play and can be used via USB Bluetooth or even Wi-Fi. the best option still honestly would be an audio control DSP /amplifier combo. it has all the ground Loop stuff already built in if you're going to use a coax but you can also use the USB and Optical to eliminate any interference from things like ground loops. you will still need Windows or Mac to go and set it up but for the most part a regular Raspberry Pi has the ability to run a Windows distribution in order to log in to the audio control gear. however they do have apps that will connect to an Android instance if you want to go ahead and mess with the digital signal processor settings
I did this build almost verbatim… but used a Pi 3B and I used a rather small 3.5” screen to blend into my vintage looking radio on my VW Beetle restoration. I bought some reasonably rated and priced Kenwood speakers and was successful with CarPlay music, navigation and at least the sound from calling but microphone isn’t working yet. Not sure why. … but I have a question… did you need to do anything to get good quality from this Amp and Pi setup??? I have plenty of volume but the sound is a bit scratchy and muffled. Any suggestions? I tried some changes to the OpenAuto Equalizer and fiddled with some of the sound settings on the Pi itself but still can’t improve. Please please please any suggestions?
Oh, also, if I have the USB soundcard plugged in, the Openauto Splash screen loops nearly endlessly. It seems to finish up after 10 minutes or more. When unplugged it boots normally. Any ideas why that might be? I disabled the RPi built in soundcard so the USB soundcard is the only thing loading and seems to load with the proper Kernel.
Hey brother. How would this Android Auto appear on a round LCD? I have a 6 inch custom made from China, touch screen... Looking to use in my mini cooper 2005. Do you know if it would fill the entire screen with the navigation and icons?
but what if 12V is cut whille actually cranking the engine. since you are using arduino to manage power on/off, you could set the turn on delay for desired amount of time. I have been using openauto pro allmost since the beginning, without any unnecesery modules and arduinos (and when ambient temp were bellow 10 degrees celsius, all 12V were cut to provide max ammount of power to engine starter). I managed to get save shutdown and powerup with just 2 car relays and a 5V timer relay. (sadly my new cars sound system is controlled via canbus, otherwise I would have installed openauto pro for sure).
Does the shutdown script still work if you turn on/off the car very quickly? For example, you turn on, then turn off the car before the pi completely boots.
Have you ever Built a unit for a customer ? I have a automotive application where I would like to take an OE Audi RNSE and rebuild its internals ( and replace screen ) to create a 2021 era functional head unit that looks stock adding things that you'd find in off the shelf units -but that in addition give you an in-dash computer ...The unit is made in Japan by Aisin Co. for Audi, my thoughts were that some of the switch gear, ( buttons ) could still be used to control the unit, but the screen could be touch screen and some other inputs for things like Back up Cam or Bluetooth which were never available could be added ... fans and the heat sink could be harvested from the donor unit ..
I was thinking of doing this with my E46 Sport Wagon, but I have 2 crazy power amps that shot my bass through my 12” subs, and sick voice set up…would your idea work to run with my existing setup? Or am I limited to just that 50 watt amp?
Have you tried using Torque OBD on android? Youd be able to use whatever sensors you have access to and should be able to install it just as an application
i had a full desktop pc under the drivers seat of an old ford ute. legit driving round with a wireless keyboard and mouse with a screen just loose in the cabin.
Very nice. I built one using a odroid xu4 running android, and a TSA8498 4x100w bluetooth amp, using the bluetooth instead of an audio jack for the amp solved the noise issue
OK, so I jumped onboard with the idea of replacing my 8.4" touchscreen in my 2015 Ram with a Raspberry Pi so I can get AA. I have been going through this for the past 2 weeks. At the same time I noticed a screen on amazon called Road Top 8.8 portable Carplay and AA....that seems to do exactly what I want, AA (wired or wireless) in my truck and a large screen. Why would I continue trying to get this OAP on Pi to work when devices like this 8.8 are out there? I don't need to run external apps like Kodi or Chrome and any app I would run would be through AA. Am I missing something special with this OAP installation? I am already into this for about 200 with the screen, the Pi, the OAP license so please advise if I am missing something.
How easy would it be to control volume on something like this with a potentiometer? Would that require a setup with a different amp, or can the center tap be fed into the pi somewhere
I know this appears to not apply on your build.....but steering wheel controls. That's the one thing stopping me from doing this in my CrossTrek right now.
there is a unit that will work with your stock steering controls. there is also an open source Android app that allows you to do this as well as it is on most of the Chinese head units and built-in. since you're using a Raspberry Pi it will be a simple method I've just using one of the gpio pins that are there and interfacing them with your canvas system be a can bus interface module. there's also a commercial product that does this is well and I think it's from a company called pack p a c
@@AddieDirectsTV I'd recommend this: axxessinterfaces.com/vehicle-fit-guide. I've added a head unit from China but I'm about to open it up again. I'm going to add a rear view camera + fix my missing steering wheel controls with one of the products from that company
Hey, I am currently working on a fully custom 1988 Nissan Pulsar NX from the engine bay to the rear bumper everything custom. I am looking for a head unit that has apple carplay but I can also run a lot more off of it. Like having triggers for my doors to open after the windows have rolled down some, if speed is under 5mph for backup and forward cameras to come into display, controlling LED lights, that sort of thing. This seems to fit the bill perfectly. I was wondering if you ever did put the backup camera in? Also, I am very new with this raspberry pi stuff so I was wondering if you could make a wiring diagram or anything like that just to help me understand how you have the wires and components connected. Thank you in advance.
That bracket does not have to be that precise. You could use a piece of masonite and just drill, glue and screw it together. A spacer for the screen is a bit more of a precision part, and it shows a little, si that it almost surely worth printing. I do plan to make one if these myself, but as long as I can work from home motivation is a bit lacking - LoL
If I understood you correctly the Red LED is on when the Pi is turned off, dessolder the red LED, it would lower your standby even more. Or you could try finding and RTC module for the pi, and have that keeping time, and turn power to the pi completely.
I think this is really awesome. It looks clean and looks very functional. Can you slow down a little? You are so twitchy and speak very quickly. I know a lot of people have ADHD but it takes time to digest what you are saying and you just jump from idea to idea very quickly.
Hey buddy, didn’t know if you knew. But you can play video on RUclips at different speeds. You could try play at 0.75 or something and see if that helps? How this helps 👍
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openauto pro follow up with script install ruclips.net/video/ko-udLtaPk8/видео.html
No one should be using OpenAuto Pro, and you absolutely shouldn't be giving them publicity.
Why? Because the developers are scumbags.
OpenAuto is GPLv3. This means that any project based off of it MUST also be GPLv3. Which means that the source code MUST be provided when software is distributed.
OpenAuto Pro "...is an extended version of OpenAuto..." But it has an entirely different license, and BlueWave Studio will not release their source. github.com/f1xpl/openauto/wiki/OpenAuto-Pro
That is not OK. You cannot closed source a GPLv3 project just because you don't want other people to redistribute it.
The WHOLE POINT of a copy-left license is that other people can view/change/redistribute stuff.
In-fact, GPLv3 literally allows YOU to sell copies, or make any changes you want to THEIR software (as long as you indicate your changes, and your release is also GPLv3).
@@Prophes0r right so are you saying that they are basically forcing people to buy the 'openAuto Pro' ? (assuming they sell the pro version)
@@everythingcool101 No. Nothing like that.
They have a project that was released with an open license. This license legally requires them to do things, and forbids them from doing other things.
Yet, they are doing the things they aren't allowed to do, and NOT doing things they ARE required to do.
It's a perfect example of fucking up an open license. It's not about the money. It's about the obligations that come with being open. And what happens when you ignore all those obligations.
Qual e a utilidade disso americano
Where are you located I would love to pay for a build on my Infiniti Q50 it doesn’t come with apple car play 😢
This channel is gold mine of knowledge .
You'll definitely need to get an anti-glare screen protector, that glare will become a problem when least expected. QOL improvement.
Yea im trying to see if I can get one cut with a cutter or my laser cutter
How a complete build in detail from scratch to build the head-unit in several videos would be handy . detailing all connections, software, adding different module and setting up, especially things like 4way audio, radio tuner, cameras, etc
Every car is different.
@@Gummibri yes i get that some can bus data and fitting will be different but the main build of head-unit, and setting up will be the same, setting up things like radio, screen, camera inputs, canbus inputs, aux audio inputs, power supply, etc etc
Yes please.
I wouldn't suggest this to most people, but you're nerdy enough. You should drop a CAN-BUS Tx/Rx into the mix (there's even a great hat for the Pi). You can then access the car's data bus directly, and gain control over everything, including environmental, and any other electronics in the car (steering wheel controls!). The accessible OBD-2 ports block a lot of data and are largely read-only. With a performance car like your WRX, you'd get gobs of awesome data straight from the ECM. It also has the added benefit of being able to wire into the stock wiring harness nice and clean. You may have to Wireshark your bus to sniff the variables for awhile and map them, but totally, totally worth it.
WHAT??
@@LeahleahB You can see all your cars data such as fuel, oil, pressure, temp, speed, errors, warnings etc and also directly control things as you would from your steering wheel or other areas (tripometer, cruise, lights etc) - this hooks directly onto pi - Wireshark gives you the variable names- people use this to TUNE their cars for more performance - theoretically you could control this sort of stuff as you drive via your pi - increase fuel / air mixture and create your own custom sports modes.
SSD is absolutely recommended especially when you use Android Auto. After a few weeks of use I had serious reliability issues with SD cards (system was not booting up or only after multiple attempts)...
No such issues after installing an SSD.
My 1tb external ssd drive takes like 2 minutes to mount on my chinese android head unit. Do you have this issue? After two minutes it finally says mounting external storage then it works.
I've been playing with streaming music for years in the car. I first mounted an old tablet, which worked for 2 years until the screen died from the heat (touch screen connections pulled off). This let me know that only quality LCDs should be used. I've been running an RPI (3?) with Openauto Pro in the car for years now with the official 7" RPI screen, and it's worked very well except when Google updates their software and it breaks for a little bit. Great to see this video about it. Very nice!
I learned to things from this video. #1 this is a huge project and i probably wont be able tp do it for a long time. #2 your incredibly smart and i appreciate the time you quality of your videos.
You can do it.
I was about to mention about touch screens being really bad for volume control when you mentioned it.
Another thought would be to rig up a jog shuttle/switch instead of a basic volume control so that when you are in the map view it could allow you to pan and zoom around the map view without having to drag the map via the screen.
Yea I'm working on putting something together with a raspberry pico
@@MickeyMishra Looking into an openauto project, do you have a link for this?
That's a great idea
@novaspirittech this is my very 1st video I watched on your channel. Great stuff, I won't be a stranger. @gordon861 I'm going to spring board off your idea. Would it be possible to create a nob dedicated to the low frequency cutoff? Like a high pass/low pass filter triggered through the raspberry unit? Or would it have to be more of an amp control switch? This had me thinking.
@novaspirittech just like bass nobs. I thought it would be cool to have a dedicated highpass knob and a bass knob.
So cool! I'll be super keen to also add reverse camera. 360 degree camera, DVR, 3G. Possibilities are endless with such a cool custom build! Gonna keep tuned to this
Im doing a similar concept on my truck, and this video answered most of my questions faster than i could think of them. This is awesome
That's awesome. It looks factory installed. I really look forward to seeing more about this. Thank you for the video.
I've managed to get FM running on a Pi using one of those cheap $10 SDR dongles that have the RTL2832U chipset. That chipset is probably the most commonly used and supported chipset for SDR devices on the Pi.
What software do you use to interface with tuning on the pi? Welle io (in open auto) appears to be DAB only and thus isn't picking up FM for me.
You might be able to detect the carrier for the police data terminals and estimate how far away the nearest is and how many are there using that sdr.
@@iamadistunguishedexp the RTL-SDR is designed as a DAB tuner and is hacked to be an SDR. To get SDR functionality, usually you have to blacklist the DAB driver module and install the SDR module (if it isn't already installed).
They aren't great for FM without proper antenna/cut filters
for Am and FM I would used the directed hd radio box and rs232 to usb adapter I still have mitches files that you can decode for commands
Awesom Work! 👍👍👍
Yes, "car computers". It's too much a luxury to own a car in Singapore, never thought I would enjoy watching something like this, until now.
“car computers “ On police cars
Bravo! Simple and effective. I like how you approached the safe shutdown and parasitic draw issues. Would like to hear more on audio quality. On my setup, I'm now only using the USB sound card for mic input. I installed a PCM1502a dac for sound out which has much better sound quality. I've seen some guys using HiFiBerry for the same thing.
thank you! i haven't tested much with audio quality yet, only played a few song it sounds a little flat to me but i'm pretty sure the eq can fix that. i'll let you know more on my follow up video.
Interesting... The audio quality is equal or superior to kenwood-pioneer-alpine units?
@@davidb741 it can be if you use an outboard a corn outboard DSP combo amp like those from audiocontrol. but there are plenty of other options out there
@@davidb741 It sounds pretty good with the external DAC. Unfortunately, I haven't had the opportunity to compare directly with a high-end head unit.
Audio quality is my big concern right now as well. It doesn’t seem to be discussed very often. Looking forward to seeing what you think about it in future videos.
I'm doing a conversion van custom tech rebuild but I want to make it my own. This is dope and perfect for the type of ideas that I'm looking for.
Not going to lie... I was going to call you out so hard about the VPN service claiming to not keep logs. However, after doing research into them on my own, PIA really doesn't keep logs of any type. I must say, I was wrong and this was a great sponsor shoutout. Thanks for the link, bro! Great video on the Pi head unit as well. I've been waiting for a few months now for someone to drop this so I can follow along and install one in my Nismo RS. Just liked and sub'd, thank you thank you!! :)
Finally my love of pi and my love of subaru have came together as one. Been planning to do this myself but with 2 screens (sat av and infotainment)
You may want to put a little delay on the relay to turn on the relay. Reason for this is because when you start the car you'll get accessory feed for a few seconds, lose it while cranking the engine and get it back once the key is released from the start position.
Basically causing the Pi to start booting, get interrupted and then start booting again
yea it's got a 3 second delay
@@NovaspiritTech should be good
@@NovaspiritTech Might even consider doing a longer delay. I have looked down this rabbit hole and considered scripts so when I pull in at home, it can connect to home wifi. Sync music/media for awhile while the car is off and have the shut down script let that happen for 15-30 minutes or so.
This would also give you coverage for like "stopping to get gas, running in the store to grab a soda or something." just long enough that quick stops don't make you wait for head unit to boot. granted, the pi4 isn't the slowest boot either lol. not like back in the day of a car PC taking a solid minute.
nice project
I created a custom Android Auto setup using a budget Lenovo tablet. To optimize it for in-car use, I made several modifications:
Removed the battery and replaced it with a DC-DC converter for direct power
Added cooling improvements with a heatsink and fan
Designed and 3D printed a custom back panel to house all components
Installed a small Bluetooth module connected to the ignition
The system automates itself using MacroDroid software. When the tablet detects the Bluetooth signal:
Screen turns on
WiFi enables
Head Unit Reloaded software launches
When Bluetooth disconnects:
All apps close
WiFi disabled
Screen turns off to conserve power
Hell yeah a tech channel and car channel. Will go together. I picked up a raspberry pi cuz I'm interested in learning a little bit more about PCS programming, coding, networking and all the other little things that are involved with it LOL. Not trying to be some mad computer scientist but I do have an interest in it. All of that because I have a love for cars and I want to understand the electrical system a little better. I have two cars that are from 1988 very little Electronics in them. So making the stereo out of a Raspberry Pi is dope. I'm also interested in a GPS for the cars made out of a Raspberry Pi. The ECU in my 88 Chevy is tunable and I would like to make something out of the Raspberry Pi to get live readings of the ECU. The reason I want to use the Raspberry Pi is because a laptop is just too big. If I can make something like that the more than likely I would just mount it in the dash with a 7-10in IPS touchscreen display. So yeah the 2 channels would work. If anything I want I want to is is possible and you know let me know.
I've been working for some OEMs' "real" infotainment systems. This is impressive.
I have to ask do you actually put in these pre equalized settings in the firmware or is that someone else that requested and for what reason do they always put a horrible EQ curve into these cars that quite literally no one else wants lol
@@MickeyMishra I have not worked on audio or entertainment functions. I have no clue how much audio filtering there's going on on our systems, except for user there's just two settins "bass" and "treble". If there's some hidden EQ, I guess the profile for that comes from the OEM (the car manufacturer), or some other supplier who is paid to do the tweaking for the OEM.
I would add a forward AND reverse cam for those times when you have to park and there is virtually no room. As an even better solution, you might want to get a recording front and reverse cam to record what happens to your car when you are away from it.
yea i'm thinking of a solution for that, might posibly offload that to a raspberry pi zero
This is fantastic! Thank you for posting it. I have started building mine but have come across a couple of things I need to add or change. When it has been posted I can’t wait to see your schematic and script for the relays, that’s one thing I am missing. I can help you navigate the custom obd gauges and pid’s as I have set them up for my car.
When she doesn't say I love you back
... Lol that's why I'm here
we broke contact a few days ago and i cant stop crying thats why im here
@@nebeladem1239 you good bro
That's so fuckung funny
I'm glad i found this video & all of the comments are inspiring me to lear more & create a build of my own.
welcome to the Family! ;) ive been a memeber of this project since update 2.0
That cracking sound cracks me up
Ah dude, SUPER sick build, love your work! definitely thinking of doing something like this in the future.
::Shows cardboard box::
“It’s a really nice box. I might upgrade this later, add some LEDs, and a fan for exhaust.”
You should be selling houses!
Anyway, great video, really informative. I was thinking about the heat. Maybe flipping it, putting the amp on top and the raspi on the bottom. Also maybe putting the, on separate panels. Like add a second plate to the very bottom of he frame and put the raspi there. Heat sinks should always be aiming upward too.
I would be curious how it stands up to extreme vehicle temps in the midst of summer of like Arizona. I've done a tablet head unit install in the past and no model holds up and overheats. I'd even put a cover on it.
me too, time will tell if i need to make more adjustments..
if you build it right your display for your Raspberry Pi will conk out before the Raspberry Pi will. especially if you mounted in a location like underneath the seat or in the trunk area or someplace where there's more air flow that is needed to cooling down the chipset, it will be able to keep up far better than some head units.
due to all the HVAC and other items that are there underneath the dash and the fact that it usually doesn't have very good ventilation heat gets trapped especially when you use a full size double DIN stereo. there just isn't very much ventilation for the amplifier and the components back there.
however with the way he has his system setup , with that cooler being involved and cooled by the Raspberry Pi itself the only modification I would make for temperate climates would be to mount the amplifier on top and the Raspberry Pi on the bottom. in all actuality it's not going to make that much of a difference but that's the only suggestion I would make if running in the configuration that he has it in.
I often had problems with my phone overheating and shutting down while I was in California so I just basically bought a white Samsung S3 and that's pretty much all I had to do. every once in awhile I would get a battery temperature warning that it would not charge but other than that I didn't really have any problems with it shutting down and I use that as my main source unit for my audio in my van for over a year.
for the rest of you that have Double-Din head units trying not using the audio amplifier on board and use the RCA outs to an outboard amplifier or you can mount in a cool place and install a fan for air flow.
if nothing else you can do what I had to do a while ago in a very special build where I had to install tubing and a PC fan to the back of the head unit and extra fans on the back of the head unit and with an exhaust that was tapped into the HVAC system or exited out of one of the vents. that was Overkill but there's always a solution
I would use a polyethylene chopping board instead of a printed plastic one. It's easy to cut and drill with simple tools.
Nice job. The menus seem quite slow and laggy though, probably due to the SD card. I'd definitely recommend booting and running the OS from a USB 3 HDD or ideally an SSD. Also, given how unreliable SD cards are (especially in RPIs) you'll probably find yourself needing to remove the unit to replace it at some point anyway.
pretty sure thats a result of connecting via wifi. I think it runs a lot smoother on usb.
Looking forward to the updates!
I used a UPS hat instead of a relay setup. I got a buck converter to take the 12v accessory from my truck and put it down to 5v 3a on two separate usbc cables. The UPS automatically turns on the pi. Also the UPS is able to do a safe shutdown of the pi when power is lost (when I turn the car off). And it holds time on the pi!
Compute Module 4 might be an perfect candidate....But custom designing PCB is a real challenge...Good Luck with your cool project!!
i was thinking the same thing... but the cm4 dev board isn't bad either with support for 12v
@@NovaspiritTech yep...Dev board is not bad but who know what the next pi will bring to the table(my suggestion - keep it upgrade able)....Any way as you said in the video just iterate until you love it !
Looks very clean. Seems the relay contactors used did their job. I may have to give this a shot one day. Greatly appreciate the video.
I have been wanting o do a modular pi deck forever! Bravo!
Awesome, man! i've been thinking about making a build like this myself, was holding back and waiting for a properly working android build for Pi. I haven't found a head unit for my car that i'd actually like for almost 10 years now. thats frustrating that you have to build something yourself to make it actually good. My plan was to not use a built in amp, since my speakers are powered by an amp anyway. And i'd like to find a proper good sounding sound card for the pi, and one thing i have to solve is that i definitely need a rotary volume switch and maybe couple of buttons for next and previous tracks.
I like your project! Looks great. Did you consider extending the front out so you could mount a much larger screen? You could also add standoff's to raise the raspberry pi up a few mm to assist with heat dissipation. If you need to adjust the base plate to allow for the height, you can add side 'wings' and lower the base plate and use the wings as new attachment points to the double din metal frame. The wings could be 3d printed and glued or screwed to the base plate, then tapped and screwed to the metal frame. This would give you whatever height you might need and allow for better heat dissipation. You might even add a layer of insulation between the pi and the base plate to protect the plastic. Perhaps drill some ventilation holes in the base plate to assist with airflow, even making a back plate for the lower area and add an intake fan, and add an exhaust fan up high to get that airflow. Again, with standoffs, if you have holes drilled below the pi, the flowpath will have cooler air pulled in from below, then up through the holes, thus cooling the back of the pi, then out the top or the back plate. It would require 2 more fans, but you could easily run much larger fans - even perhaps have them controlled by the pi with a couple of temperature thermocouple's/sensors placed wherever you think best - It should be no big deal to add fan speed profiles etc... Good stuff! Call me impressed.
Gosta disso tambem
This is a great idea, love it.
OpenAuto rear-view defaults to the Raspberry Pi Camera (with the flat ribbon cable connector). There's a Pi-KVM project that recommends TC358743 boards for HDMI to pi-camera port. Then you can chain it with a cheap composite to HDMI converter. It's a bit roundabout, but probably the easiest solution.
Yea I have a few of those hdmi-csi2 modules I might give a try
I was looking on Amazon for a second monitor for my head unit and saw that they make mini HD I displays for Pi. Did a quick search on YT and landed on your video. I really like this build. This is great! This auto pc has serious potential. If I still have trouble with my Pioneer MH1700NEX, I think I'll try building my own micro pc like this. I might go with a 10inch screen though, if it'll fit nicely.
OK, thanks for the video. This is the first time I have seen OpenAuto and it's cool.
Amazing .. waiting for the FM module update.. Great project ... Congratulations!
Great video, loved it and nice job on the head unit but whatever was clicking and clattering in the audio drove me absolutely nuts lol
do you not need an isolated power supply for the pi to avoid ground audio interference??
Im guessing you will run into a buzz sound or a high noise floor.... you can fix that by isolating the power supply for the audio source from the amp..
Changing the boot up splash screen to the car maker's logo would be a nice touch.
Great job. I wish that I was younger and could take on a project like this. Once again, good job Don!
Never too late Arthur!
Looking forward to find out how to get FM radio working with this. However I am wounding if the audio has the ability to fade between front and rear speakers. Or does the amp only have one left and right signal instead of front L/R and rear L/R.
I'm planning some sort of variation on this. I've bought a Rockpi4c, and a 128gb NVME drive, 7 inch screen, USB GPS Receiver and running Android 10 on that. For the radio, i'm planning to put a 4g dongle and use something like TuneIn or similar. And on the audio side, maybe the correct thing to do is just using a decent sound card, and rely on a cheap nice sounding car stereo hidden somewhere else. Another way to do it, is using a toslink output, and put a multichannel micro amp with DSP like the
Match PP 86DSP, Mosconi D2 100.4 DSP, or one of the many chinese amps with the same functionalities.
How is the audio for calls? One major issue with so many after-market head units are the terrible audio quality for calls (and many cause feedback between the speakers & mic) - if this solution can bring 'first class' audio when driving, then this is a huge game changer! Also, have you figured out if this can handle steering wheel controls?
dude love result!! Brilliant OEM look
How will you install a "reverse camera"? Using a long cable to connect to the Pi Camera that would be somehow installed near the rear car plate?
I have been waiting for this video. I have most of the parts and now I just need to source the 3D printed parts.
i just finished uploading the 3d printed plate needed for the install
@@NovaspiritTech Perfect I just need to find someone to print it. That is a machine I do not have at the moment. I also need to get a custom face plate made as well. Huge gaps around the 7" screen and my dash kit. You have a 3D printer you recommend?
@@chadgilleland6521 look for local makerspaces or get it printed online.
I heard public library has 3d printing now
@@NovaspiritTech Just posted the files to the local library. They do the print for $.06 a gram. Better then buying printer at this time. I am looking at them though. I am thinking the Ender 5 pro.
With the extra heat (for charging), I'm sure you could have the ESP board using a pin to switch a fan on/off too.
That is neat! I little bit of warning about peeling the plastic off of the screen is(or any other electronic for that matter), make sure that the system is shut down. and disconnected. The chances might be low but the static electricity from peeling the plastic off can damage your system.(Dont ask how I know)
Wow, what a nice random find. I had almost the same idea, and I have almost the same car (sportswagon). As soon as I saw the plastic center console on your desk I was like "hold on a minute".
Anyway, my idea was to have a dual screen setup, one like you did but also a smaller one mounted to the other side so I could have closer access to controls but also I could keep like Navi up and still play a movie or something along those lines.
Nice setup. It looks very professional. I am curious as to why you chose to have the amplifier at the bottom instead of on top since it is the biggest source of heat. Isn't it unnecessarily heating up the Raspberry Pi and other components?
that is subjected to change, the current configurations fits perfectlly in the cubby, if i had the amp on top,, i'm also use the plate to be in the middle so it can push up on my screen so can't really move down the whole assembly, might need a redesign
Yeah, I'm thinking it would be better to relocate the amp somewhere else entirely. Everybody in the comment section is talking about heat.
Very nice work on your build. If its running warm you could mod one your vent ducks inside to blow down with little hole inside to help keep cool if your running your a/c or such.
Seeing as how you already have a Pi onboard, you could pretty easily just run an SDR USB dongle for the radio.
THAT IS SICK DUDE i had an idea to make kind of an mp3 box with a pi and one of those cheap 3.5 touchscreen cases but power it from cig lighter and hook it to aux for the ride. but you doin big things
I have been using PLA+ for automotive interior parts with great luck. no deforming or any pliability.
good to know, pla+ is much easier to print then abs
Sorry Im late to the party but mausberry circuits has a power board specifically for running you Pi off of an ignition source. Then you can program it to gracefully shut down your Pi. The cool thing is , you can program it to turn off the Pi after the car is turned off, for instance I have mine turn off about 30 mins after I turn off the car so if I just make a quick trip into the store it will not need to boot again.
This is so cool, thanks for posting this and can't wait to see what's next. I bought a rock pi to try doing this before the pi 4 came out but unfortunately due to lack of software and some breaking the as slot off when it dropped on the floor, I was unable to complete that. Might give it another shot however using this setup.
Love this kind on projects. Good work.
Can you theoretically use second and third screens on the same pi to run separate programs? I’m going to run stuff for my dash cluster and want everything to be in sync and very sleek looking.
Ok so the amp for the speakers since you are only using headphone out you only have left and right am I correct? You will not get Fade and Balance, it would be one or the other. Just got the AMP in and haven't tested anything since I am lacking some parts still.
Loved building this , so thanks for all the info
Has anyone who has built one had any issues with audio crackling ( quite loud )
Used pretty much same parts as in video
( I have looked through forums )
Insane build. Love it!
If you have any issues with it keeping it cool you could always use the ac ducts above. I would 3D print some small tubing and adapted to the Ducs above so that way it blows cool air on the Raspberry Pi. But you have to figure a way to shut off the airflow during the winter the heater is not blowing on it
How did you manage the wiring harness from car to pi? Do you have steering wheel controls?
so no low power standby mode for the raspberry, for immediate wakeup?
What was the logic behind making a flat piece of plastic out of PLA from a 3d printer to mount the PI on, Would it not have been a much faster and simpler option to cut out the desired shape out of a existing flat sheet of material like delrin or acrylic, and simply drill holes as needed
I'm interested in the Audio section. I am wondering how the balance/fader works when there is only a Left and Right output into either 1 x 4 channel or 2 x 2 channel amps. Have you tackled this problem yet?
How do you like the screen? What is the nits? Is it bright enough during the day?
I’d have to look at the dimensions and power input spec, but HifiBerry has their BeoCreate amp board that’s equipped with overkill levels of audio DSP for the amps. they’re $250 ish but take 12v input and powers itself and a pi.
it's perfect for to channel operation however in a car automotive environment I wouldn't necessarily use this device for high quality sound for obvious reasons mainly being that it's only two channel. there is a 4-channel option and that is a little bit better but you really need about six channels minimum as you are going to want to run fully active.
I just go with the standard Automotive dspp which can be bought from anywhere from 99 to around $1,000 depending on what you're going for but the average cost to get into the game is about three hundred bucks.
Dayton audio makes a pretty good unit that is pretty much plug-and-play and can be used via USB Bluetooth or even Wi-Fi. the best option still honestly would be an audio control DSP /amplifier combo. it has all the ground Loop stuff already built in if you're going to use a coax but you can also use the USB and Optical to eliminate any interference from things like ground loops.
you will still need Windows or Mac to go and set it up but for the most part a regular Raspberry Pi has the ability to run a Windows distribution in order to log in to the audio control gear. however they do have apps that will connect to an Android instance if you want to go ahead and mess with the digital signal processor settings
I did this build almost verbatim… but used a Pi 3B and I used a rather small 3.5” screen to blend into my vintage looking radio on my VW Beetle restoration. I bought some reasonably rated and priced Kenwood speakers and was successful with CarPlay music, navigation and at least the sound from calling but microphone isn’t working yet. Not sure why. … but I have a question… did you need to do anything to get good quality from this Amp and Pi setup??? I have plenty of volume but the sound is a bit scratchy and muffled. Any suggestions? I tried some changes to the OpenAuto Equalizer and fiddled with some of the sound settings on the Pi itself but still can’t improve. Please please please any suggestions?
Oh, also, if I have the USB soundcard plugged in, the Openauto Splash screen loops nearly endlessly. It seems to finish up after 10 minutes or more. When unplugged it boots normally. Any ideas why that might be? I disabled the RPi built in soundcard so the USB soundcard is the only thing loading and seems to load with the proper Kernel.
Hey brother. How would this Android Auto appear on a round LCD? I have a 6 inch custom made from China, touch screen... Looking to use in my mini cooper 2005. Do you know if it would fill the entire screen with the navigation and icons?
Did you incorporate any protection on the power supply against over-voltage and reverse polarity?
I'd love to do this but my only concern is steering wheel controls.... volume up/down previous/next track/preset etc
Is there a way to convert a car with manual climate controls that display on the stock radio screen over to a unit like this?
but what if 12V is cut whille actually cranking the engine. since you are using arduino to manage power on/off, you could set the turn on delay for desired amount of time. I have been using openauto pro allmost since the beginning, without any unnecesery modules and arduinos (and when ambient temp were bellow 10 degrees celsius, all 12V were cut to provide max ammount of power to engine starter). I managed to get save shutdown and powerup with just 2 car relays and a 5V timer relay. (sadly my new cars sound system is controlled via canbus, otherwise I would have installed openauto pro for sure).
Does the shutdown script still work if you turn on/off the car very quickly? For example, you turn on, then turn off the car before the pi completely boots.
Is there a way to have rca preamps cables to connect to amplifiers?
Can you please share what model 3d printer you used to fab the bezel pieces? Thanks!
Have you ever Built a unit for a customer ? I have a automotive application where I would like to take an OE Audi RNSE and rebuild its internals ( and replace screen ) to create a 2021 era functional head unit that looks stock adding things that you'd find in off the shelf units -but that in addition give you an in-dash computer ...The unit is made in Japan by Aisin Co. for Audi, my thoughts were that some of the switch gear, ( buttons ) could still be used to control the unit, but the screen could be touch screen and some other inputs for things like Back up Cam or Bluetooth which were never available could be added ... fans and the heat sink could be harvested from the donor unit ..
I was thinking of doing this with my E46 Sport Wagon, but I have 2 crazy power amps that shot my bass through my 12” subs, and sick voice set up…would your idea work to run with my existing setup? Or am I limited to just that 50 watt amp?
Have you tried using Torque OBD on android? Youd be able to use whatever sensors you have access to and should be able to install it just as an application
i had a full desktop pc under the drivers seat of an old ford ute. legit driving round with a wireless keyboard and mouse with a screen just loose in the cabin.
Haha I remember those days, I did the same back in 2005
Very nice. I built one using a odroid xu4 running android, and a TSA8498 4x100w bluetooth amp, using the bluetooth instead of an audio jack for the amp solved the noise issue
Someone on the comments commented about using a Bluetooth amp and Bluetooth mic, I might want to give that a try
Haven't you had any issue with noise with that amplifier? I have a similar setup and get a lot of noise both from the RPI and the car
OK, so I jumped onboard with the idea of replacing my 8.4" touchscreen in my 2015 Ram with a Raspberry Pi so I can get AA. I have been going through this for the past 2 weeks. At the same time I noticed a screen on amazon called Road Top 8.8 portable Carplay and AA....that seems to do exactly what I want, AA (wired or wireless) in my truck and a large screen. Why would I continue trying to get this OAP on Pi to work when devices like this 8.8 are out there? I don't need to run external apps like Kodi or Chrome and any app I would run would be through AA. Am I missing something special with this OAP installation? I am already into this for about 200 with the screen, the Pi, the OAP license so please advise if I am missing something.
How easy would it be to control volume on something like this with a potentiometer? Would that require a setup with a different amp, or can the center tap be fed into the pi somewhere
I know this appears to not apply on your build.....but steering wheel controls. That's the one thing stopping me from doing this in my CrossTrek right now.
I have a blue tooth controller that can be used as steering wheel controls, didn't want to install it yet
there is a unit that will work with your stock steering controls. there is also an open source Android app that allows you to do this as well as it is on most of the Chinese head units and built-in. since you're using a Raspberry Pi it will be a simple method I've just using one of the gpio pins that are there and interfacing them with your canvas system be a can bus interface module.
there's also a commercial product that does this is well and I think it's from a company called pack p a c
@@MickeyMishra for doing steering wheel controls? What's the name of the thing that does that?
@@AddieDirectsTV I'd recommend this: axxessinterfaces.com/vehicle-fit-guide. I've added a head unit from China but I'm about to open it up again. I'm going to add a rear view camera + fix my missing steering wheel controls with one of the products from that company
@@olab1627 you rock! thank you!
Hey, I am currently working on a fully custom 1988 Nissan Pulsar NX from the engine bay to the rear bumper everything custom. I am looking for a head unit that has apple carplay but I can also run a lot more off of it. Like having triggers for my doors to open after the windows have rolled down some, if speed is under 5mph for backup and forward cameras to come into display, controlling LED lights, that sort of thing. This seems to fit the bill perfectly. I was wondering if you ever did put the backup camera in? Also, I am very new with this raspberry pi stuff so I was wondering if you could make a wiring diagram or anything like that just to help me understand how you have the wires and components connected. Thank you in advance.
Would it be difficult to add a volume knob to this setup?
@Novaspirit Tech
- aside the 3D prints what was your total cost of this Build?
That bracket does not have to be that precise. You could use a piece of masonite and just drill, glue and screw it together. A spacer for the screen is a bit more of a precision part, and it shows a little, si that it almost surely worth printing. I do plan to make one if these myself, but as long as I can work from home motivation is a bit lacking - LoL
If I understood you correctly the Red LED is on when the Pi is turned off, dessolder the red LED, it would lower your standby even more.
Or you could try finding and RTC module for the pi, and have that keeping time, and turn power to the pi completely.
or you could just buy a bigger battery or make your own lithium-ion battery pack which should be pretty cheap and easy, I like easy
@@MickeyMishra so a free mod option, vs replacing a battery. Or a cheap mod for keeping time vs a replacing battery. I don't follow the logic.
How are you gonna pull data from ECU? SSM via Tactrix or OBD?
obd
Can a canbus adaptor be wired in? Can it be used with steering wheel controls?
I think this is really awesome. It looks clean and looks very functional. Can you slow down a little? You are so twitchy and speak very quickly. I know a lot of people have ADHD but it takes time to digest what you are saying and you just jump from idea to idea very quickly.
Hey buddy, didn’t know if you knew. But you can play video on RUclips at different speeds. You could try play at 0.75 or something and see if that helps? How this helps 👍