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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- Got questions here's answers!
There are a variety of classic Mercedes Benz cars still on the road today, ranging from the iconic 300 SL Gullwing Coupe to the luxurious W126 S-Class. Many of these cars are lovingly maintained by their owners, and they can be seen driving around town or at car shows. These vehicles are a testament to Mercedes Benz's dedication to producing timeless and reliable automobiles.
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I've opened up over fifteen of these engines, with #10, #14, #17, #18, #20 and #22 heads. #22 is the last evolution. I modified some with bigger turbos, intercoolers and a modified ip. Let me tell you this: You don't need to buy a new head from MB. They were available the last time in summer 2021. I know because I bought four heads back then, I kept just two, because the casting quality was very bad. Porosity and clogged up water channels. They are not worth the money. They were 1000 Euros back then. Buy yourself a good used #18 and higher. Even #17 will withstand normal usage, but not so likely boost. Buy the head complete with all acessories. That's the cheapest overall. Or if you buy just the head you have to change prechambers and injectors and injector lines, too. You can use your old high pressure lines from the #14 head, just rebend them slightly.
I had all of these heads lying in front of me, measured and litered out water channels, oil channels, weighted them, cut them apart, etc. From #17 to #20 there are literally no changes in casting design. Water channels get a bit bigger, thats it, but neglectable. #22 has the benefit of a redesigned oil gallery. But water channels are the same as #20 and #18! Of course I cannot say anything about the aluminum alloy the used, but as I said. The casting quality of the heads I bought back in 2021 was very bad. None of the used heads I inspected had so high porosity and clogged up water channels with casting residue and slag like the 4 heads I bought 3 years ago. I first ordered two heads, just to order 2 more and pick out two usable ones. And even those had porosity issues. Marlon from Germany
The aluminum in those heads are heat treated , when you have a head gasket issue between 2 cylinders , the aluminum there looses its tempered due ta a flame effect . MB had an tester to test for soft aluminum .
When did Bigfoot start working on Mercedes?
Do you have a recommended machinist for cylinder head work? I heard you mention metric motors. My M112 requires new timing chain guides. Unfortunately they are plastic and cracking after 25 years and 220k miles. Per WIS replacing the guides requires the cylinder heads be removed. There is not enough clearance to get the guides in or out with the heads on.
The engine runs great, but I figured it would to probably be good for someone to check them over before slapping them back on.
Would you ever (recommend) to replace *only* the timing chain tensioner without timing chain and guides? 560 SL
I have a 1981 380 sl and my single timing Chain broke. I was going to replace it but I can’t a tutorial to do it. Have you done one? Thanks. Frank
I enjoy your videos and I have a 1979 450SL w / 200k miles. The car runs great and had been maintained by a dealership in CA. until recently when I bought it in Indiana. The timing chain had been replaced in the past ( it has a master link.) But the slide rails look original. I have removed all the front drive accessories and I am ready to pull the timing cover to replace ALL of the timing chain slides and timing chain. The book says I can remove the timing cover without removing the oil pan and the heads. BUT if the oil pump bolts to the timing cover ( I saw this on one of your other videos - Thank you) and if the oil pump chain goes through the timing cover can you really remove the cover with out pulling the oil pan and if so How? I don't really want to pull the engine as the car runs great and that looks like alot more than I want to get into now. But I am concerned about that lower curved slide. I left a comment on you questions video and am a $10 mo patreon contributor and would really appreciate your help and input. Again thank you in advance for your help.
hi, 280SL pagoda engine wont shut off with key off and out, thanks for any help
Hello, how are you? I am following you from Iraq
I own a W124 M103 car. I suffer from intermittency when idling, and when I turn on the air conditioner, the rpm drops, and when I press the parking brake, the engine stops. How can I raise or stabilize the rpm? Thank you very much in advance.
Nice information.
Greetings , if I was looking to do a swap in my 92 8v 190e, what would be my best option with minimal fabrication, hence cutting and welding for space issues Thank you
Ok I have a 1979 450SL. I am ready to pull the timing cover to replace ALL of the timing chain slides and timing chain. The book says I can remove the timing cover without removing the oil pan and the heads. BUT if the oil pump bolts to the timing cover ( I saw this on one of your other videos) and if the oil pump chain goes through the timing cover can you really remove the cover with out pulling the oil pan and if so How? Thank you in advance for any help here.
Hello, @josephbachan8598 and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
I have joined your patreon account and set up a $10 month contribution but I not heard back an answer to my question I need a simple yes or no can the timing case cover be removed while the ending is still in the car with the heads and oil pan attached? Am I submitting my question in the wrong place?@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753
Yeah I did that and you never responded. So thank you but no thank you@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753
I have 1992 500sl with Bosch CIS Jeteonic system. The ASR light comes on and the car goes into limp mode. Where do I start to fix the issue? Love the channel! Thank you!
This could be numerous problems, I would start with checking power relay and battery.
@@Gr3eGo Already done these and both are good. I'm really hoping Pierre responds with his in credible knowledge.
Hi! I have a w124 with m102.963 engine and a 5 speed manual. Engine runs perfect exept for when i am coasting, ive heard that there should be a slightly elevated idle like 100-200rpm maybe but mine is always different. Coasting to a intersection idle is 1600rpm next intersection might be 1100rpm and next might be 1400rpm and so on, But as soon as i stop idle becomes normal 650rpm. since its kind of hard to be in the enginebay troubleshooting with the car moving im wondering if you might have an idea of what it can be? ive changed fuel relay, ovp and voltage regulator and checked everything i can think of but with no difference. car does like 35mpg so i dont think its fuel related.
Where r u based out of....can I come work for you
what is the name of that intro music
It’s “eat me Josephine” by Blendax