Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
Creality CR-6 MAX (Thoughts From The Hart)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2024
- We've been using the CR-6 MAX in the HartSmart Products shop for a while, which means it's time to give our thoughts on it! Let's discuss what's different from the other printers in the Creality line, performance, and overall impressions. Whether you agree, or disagree with us, let us know your thoughts in the comments!
Are you in the Des Moines area? Come visit the shop!
9850 Douglas Ave
Urbandale, IA 50322
ECOstruder@HartSmartProducts.com
www.HartSmartProducts.com
Follow ECOstruder on Social Media:
/
/ hartsmartprod
/ ecostruder
Thingiverse Attributions:
Moon city by kijai - www.thingivers...
Fractal Pyramid with Continuous Cross-section by ricktu - www.thingivers...
FLUID vase by josefprusa - www.thingivers...
SG-1 Stargate with symbols by wtgibson - www.thingivers...
Simple Spannerhands Rocket (Vase Mode) by 3DMasterRace - www.thingivers...
I've had my CR-6 Max most of a year now. Had to tweak the strain guage threshold initially as it was too sensitive but it's been good since. I've printed about 15kg filament though mine, hydrofoil wing sections, meshes and many others of my designs. Def needs a touch more retract than stock settings. I run my build plate at around 70c for PLA+, it still needs big brims for big objects but they come off very cleanly on cool down. It's a yes from me.
Excellent, thanks for the additional thoughts on this machine--glad you're getting some good prints out of it! Regarding the need for a brim, you might want to try putting a PEI flex plate on your machine. That has been one of the best upgrades I've done (and I've done quite a few at this point).
@@ecostruder It will happen if I spoil the current build plate. I usually kill them when I'm doing TPU and have a particularly difficult removal but lately I do a diluted PVA wipe prior to starting TPU prints. the factory default plate has been fantastic so far.
Great review! Thanks.
BIG build volume means, long travel distances. That means a very long Boden tube... which means more filament slop between the extruder and the hotend. That slop means more stringing, and longer, slower retracts are needed to compensate. That printer seems a perfect candidate for a direct drive extruder.
Thanks for your thoughts! Yes, I'd agree that going direct drive would be a good option for this big machine. The only issues with that on this particular model are that the bed leveling system isn't very well suited to modification (not as simple as going direct drive on other Creality models), and some people are going to want to push the speed limits of the motion system. A direct drive print head will reduce the speeds the machine can run at without artifacts. I still prefer direct drive on all of my printers, but there are some good reasons to use Bowden in certain cases.
Would love to see a vid on the upgrades you have done on it now. Just got mine and it's been printing nonstop for days now and I've not had any issues yet. Prints are great out of the box and beating the heck out of my ender 3 v2.
This is one of those tricky situations where "if it ain't broke don't fix it." Of course, I don't tend to follow that good advice myself. Thus far I've only done 4 things: Capricorn PTFE, Micro Swiss all-metal hotend, Micro Swiss Bowden Dual Gear extruder, and Community Firmware. Of those I can recommend all minus the Bowden extruder. It works great except it doesn't fit properly next to the filament detection sensor.
@@ecostruder in the last couple days, I started getting the stringing (fine hair thing stuff). I'm looking at doing the direct drive but with the stock driver and 3d print the mount. I need to find cables to extend. Another youtuber did it for the SE version but the cables are not long enough for the max. I'll have to look into the firmware. I've not looked into it yet. What issues does it fix?
@@RebelTurtleTim The community firmware just mostly opens up some options on the machine through the touchscreen. One of the main things we got with that firmware is the ability to save the bed mesh so it could be used again even after a power cycle. Stock firmware erases it when the printer is turned off, so you have to run the auto-leveling program every time you turn the printer on.
Great video, thanks for sharing :) Just got a CR-6 Max for my ever growing collection of 3D printers and really looking forward to testing how it performe. Your video was very informative, thanks.
Awesome, I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine! For what it's worth, in addition to community firmware and a magnetic PEI bed, I also ended up switching to the Bondtech LGX Lite extruder for a "direct drive" printhead. It's amazing. Check it out here: www.bondtech.se/2022/03/07/how-to-install-the-lgx-lite-on-creality-strain-gauge-carriages/
Hey. Great review. This is the machine I'm considering for Santa to bring me this year. I appreciate your thoughts on possible upgrades so I'll be visiting your website.
Love the big prints!
I firmly believe that printing bigger is more fun. Riskier, but also more fun! Thanks for watching!
Nice use of Sierpinski’s triangle. It’s interesting that the base of that pyramid should have no holes. There would be holes all around with a tetrahedron.
I don't always love math, but when it's this pretty I'm happy to use it. ;-)
FWIW, the base of that pyramid is open. It's not a solid base layer. The whole thing is one giant vase mode print!
@@ecostruder That’s interesting. I assumed that with a finite number of tessellations the base would have to be a solid square. That’s got to be an interesting sight to see.
Thanks for the reply!
Great quality video. Keep up
Thanks Robert!
Danke
Bitte
Got a couple of questions on the CR-6 Max.
1) Is the "All Metal Extruder Aluminum MK8 Extruder" compatible with the CR-6 Max?
2) What order are the 725 x 640 x 691 Dimensions specified in? (Are they Height, Width, Depth respectively?)
1) I'm not sure what extruder that is. But if it's the one I think it is, then that's a direct replacement for an Ender-3/CR-10 style extruder. The CR-6 Max uses an entirely different type of extruder, so no it would not be compatible.
2) These dimensions refer to depth, width, and height, respectively. However, it's important to understand that this is with the bed centered and stationary. It does not include the full depth necessary for the bed to move fully forward and back. Mine is printing right now, so I can't measure it, but I'd assume you'd want to double the depth to account for that large bed's full range of movement.
Question, two years on is this still best value / option at this price point for a 400x400mm print size? Is a replacement due any time soon? Thank you for this great video.
Unfortunately this machine has been discontinued by Creality at this point. It's still a machine I use a lot, and it's still working great, so if you can find one it's worth picking up. But right now the best deal on a machine of this size I've seen is the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max. It's cheaper and bigger and direct drive. Hard to beat that.
I am considering buying this model, the price is really good right now. I would like to make an enclosure for it. What internal dimensions are needed for the printer to fit?
Keep in mind that the price is really good on these right now due to the fact that they have been discontinued by Creality. But yes, they're great. Enclosing them is difficult because of the size of the frame, but mostly because that's a huge bed that has to have room to travel forward and backward. Based on the measurements of my CR-6 Max I'd suggest a minimum enclosure size of 800mm tall, 1000mm wide, and 1200mm front to back. That's a big box!
Hi, just get new one, but have trobles with sliser, the parts have shifts and hotent stops for 1-3 sec at eacth leyer. If anyone had the same problem, please tell me what you do. Ty so much
That's an odd one, but I'd suggest considering community firmware for your 6 Max. It's quite good, and I've found it to improve the operation of mine!
Thanks for the review - purchased one on the back of it. (In the UK, if I was your side of the pond would have bought from you). Do you know of any good Cura profiles for reducing the stringing? What setting did you find best for print quality with the Max?
Glad the video was helpful! Cura is my third favorite slicer, so I don't use it very often. I'm afraid I don't have a good Cura profile for the 6 Max. I will say that stringing is a real issue with the stock extruder and hotend. I never got my slicing settings dialed in well enough to eliminate that before I just changed the parts out. I am currently running a Bondtech LGX Lite and Micro Swiss All-Metal Hotend in a pseudo-direct drive configuration and it's amazing. Zero stringing. Not an easy upgrade, but totally worth it. www.bondtech.se/2022/03/07/how-to-install-the-lgx-lite-on-creality-strain-gauge-carriages/
Liked the video. tnx. What were the best printing parameters you found for PLA? specially for stringing.
Thanks for watching! There's a pretty big range in PLA settings due to the range in PLA variants on the market. I print almost exclusively in 3D Fuel Pro PLA+, which is a high toughness, high temp PLA that is based on pure Natureworks Ingeo 3D870 resin. That form of PLA prints best around 230C on a 65-70C PEI bed surface. As for the 6-Max specific settings, I'm not sure I can help much with that. I used fairly standard settings when I was printing with the stock setup and it worked quite well. A bit stringy, but overall pretty good. However, I've had mine converted to the Bondtech LGX Arrow Direct Drive configuration for quite a long time now. No stringing, perfect extrusion on nearly anything I put through it. Sorry I don't have any particularly helpful insight for you with a stock 6-Max.
@@ecostruder Thanks for your helpful info!
hello sir, so i have an ender 5 plus and i want to buy a second printer... can I ask a short opinion pls, what you would choice? another ender 5 plus, or this CR 6 max?
I'm sure Creality has improved the Ender-5 Plus over time, but my shop (HartSmart Products) offers printer repair services and we see a lot of Ender-5s with problems. It's the main reason why we decided not to carry them. The CR-6 SE and CR-6 Max have proven to be pretty reliable (especially with a couple of small upgrades), so I've been pleased with those models. That would be my preference, but I'm sure there are plenty of people out there who would have the exact opposite opinion. Good luck with your new printer, whichever way you end up going!
Great video! I'm choosing between this and the Ender 5 Plus. Do you have experience with the 5 Plus, and if so which would you choose? Thanks!
Thanks! I do not have much experience with the Ender-5 family of printers besides one that came into my shop for repair. I have heard a lot of mixed reviews on those machines so I've generally stayed away from them. Based purely on the comparison of specs I'd say the Ender-5 Plus has a nice frame system, and I prefer the way the bed only moves in Z, instead of moving in Y like on the CR-6 Max. But my 6 Max has performed so well that I'm obviously biased in that direction between the two. I really like the nozzle-based bed leveling rather than using a separate BL-Touch. Either way you go I hope you'll have a great experience!
Stay away from the ender 5 plus stay far away
@@cobus8870 Ya... I ended up getting it and I can't argue that. Holy crap, so much time lost. Got it working, but it was a major hassle. I've heard of people blowing weeks of time trying to get it to function.
Thanks for video. I just ordered the max and should be here Wednesday from creality 3D official. I've been looking around RUclips and came across your videos. My main question is the belts. I can't find anything about the belt tension. I have 3 6se's and that is the only thing on these machines I can't find any info on. I don't know how tight they need to be. Can you help? Thanks!
It's always a good idea to check the belts to ensure they are properly tensioned, but the CR-6 Max already has the belts connected and (presumably) tensioned when it's in the box. All you have to do is put the top on the base and connect a few wires. Proper belt tension is hard to quantify. Basically you just want them tight enough to ensure that there is no slop when the motor moves back and forth and no sag in the belts when they move back and forth. But no so tight that it causes undue stress on the stepper motor. I hope you love your new printer!
You convinced me. I just ordered one of these along with the microswiss and bontech direct drive. Can't find a creality pei plate will any 400*400 do?
Also what community firmware are you using?
Thanks
Glad to hear you took the plunge! As I mentioned in the video, I decided that we should sell these HartSmart Products so we've been doing that since making this video. We also sell Micro-Swiss and Bondtech (the new LGX Lite Arrow is amazing), and since we couldn't find any good options for magnetic PEI plates for the 6-Max, we decided to make our own! So yes, I am aware of one place to get them: hartsmartproducts.com/products/removable-magnetic-pei-bed-plates. The firmware is found here: github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases. I hope you love yours as much as I love mine.
@@ecostruder Cool, I'm in Australia tho. No postage option and I'd guess it'd cost an arm and a leg with shipping and service tax. Would the Tronxy 400*400 fit?
@@simonburke6681 Yeah, shipping to Australia is probably not going to make this practical! I cannot guarantee that any other PEI plate will work. Keep in mind that the bed on a CR-6 Max is not square. Our plates have an actual dimension of 430 x 420mm, which fits the bed perfectly. 400 x 400 is just the actual printable area. I hope you can find one local to you!
@@ecostruder thanks, useful to know the actual dimensions I would support your store if I could :)
My prints makes a grinding noise when it travels from a print to another one along the Y axis only. I got a person to check out my wheels and pretty much everything but it still does it a bit?
Whats your travel speed? (mines 200 and I think it might be too much?) if not any recommendations on what I can do?
Yeah, grinding noises aren't something you generally want coming from your printer! Keep in mind that this machine is slinging a very large and heavy bed back and forth, so yeah 200mm/s might simply be too much. I use 100mm/s on mine and that gets the job done quite nicely. I could probably push it a bit harder, but I haven't had a reason to try.
I have same one. But its model after kickstarter campain. What power supply is this? I have one with small server fan and its LOUD. Like really loud. Oters component are totaly fine. And what slicer do you use? Woud you share your slicer settings for PLA? I print large architectual models for my work and still isnt satisfied with stringing and retractions. I use Prusa slicer but i can just copy values and put it to PS. I also upgraded fan on hotend and loaded comunity firmware but thats another story. Tank you for answer and sorry for my english ;)
I'm not sure what power supply is in this machine--it's inside the electronics enclosure and I haven't yet had a reason to open it up. But it's a 500W/5.9A rated supply. Right now I primarily use Simplify3D, but I'm looking forward to changing over to PrusaSlicer at some undetermined point in the future. Change is hard...
My slicing settings are mostly based on Angus' Ender-3 slicing settings he posted years ago on his MakersMuse youtube channel. I basically took the stock CR-6 Max profile and updated it with any of the "interesting" settings that I found in his Ender-3 settings. Generally, for the 3D Fuel PLA I primarily work with I'm using 210-215 on the nozzle and 65-70 on the bed, and printing at around 50mm/s.
Brandon, what are your thoughts on adjusting the bed screws to get better bed mesh values? Is this something you guys did?
Fortunately this wasn't necessary on mine. The left side was perhaps a tiny bit higher than the right, but the bed compensation is able to take care of that, so I didn't bother adjusting the bed. I could certainly see a need to adjust the bed screws to get a more level/flat bed if this wasn't the case. Perhaps some thin shims on one side to help reduce the difference. On other machines I can adjust each of the lead screws to change the height of each side of the x-axis. But on this machine they are connected with a belt, so that's not quite as easy to do. Hopefully yours is similarly well calibrated out of the box!
@@ecostruder I ordered my machine from Tiny Machines 3D and ended up putting silicone bed mounts underneath. They are a little more stiff than those black spacers. My mesh values are all green, but sometimes it goes all wonky lol. Definitely not pleased with the 6 Max.
@@landfallstudio3482 Sorry to hear that. Hopefully it just needs a bit of dialing in and you'll start getting good results. My 6 Max is a champ. It works nearly flawlessly, particularly after I put the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend and the community firmware on it. I'm about to upgrade the extruder to the new Micro Swiss dual gear bowden extruder as well. I am planning to put a PEI flex plate on it soon as well. I guess I have a problem. I can't help upgrading things that work perfectly well.
@@ecostruder Yes, I also put the MicroSwiss all metal hotend, community firmware and I installed the Bondtech LGX direct drive extruder. Just can’t get my first layer down. I am not new to this.
I have three other CR-10 V3’s that lay down perfect first layers every time. This 6 Max is kicking my ass hah. Thanks man!
Hello! your review was very helpful. I am interested in printing a Formula 1 front wing and someone recommended this particular printer to me. Can you advise if this printer would be a good choice for my project and if I would need to make any significant adjustments to the settings? Thank you for your assistance.
I'm glad you found this video helpful! There has been some previous discussions in the comments on this video regarding upgrades to get the machine to perform better than stock. To summarize though, I'd recommend the Bondtech LGX Lite Arrow conversion to make it a direct drive system, a PEI flex plate system, and Community firmware. That combo works very well, and is what I'm currently using on mine. I also upgraded to an all-metal hotend so I could print with more materials. Good luck with the new big machine!
@@ecostruder Thank you!
@@ecostruder Currently I am leaning towards the CR-10 Max. Would you happen to know if it is reliable and if there are any affordable modifications that you could suggest?
@@jimbo1058 We nearly decided to sell the CR-10 Max, but after looking around the internet and reading reviews I decided against it. It seems to have some fundamental flaws, and is a rather old machine at this point. The CR-M4 is Creality's successor to the CR-10 Max (I believe), so I'd suggest that one between the two. But Elegoo recently one-upped Creality by releasing the Neptune 3 Max at a much lower pricepoint with similar specs (if not better in some ways). We cannot keep those in stock right now and haven't had any complaints so far. In the words of my favorite tool reviewer, (@projectfarm) "Very Impressive!"
@@ecostruder Thank you!
Maybe a dumb question but could yu put a direct drive extruder on that?
Not a dumb question at all. In fact, I'd like to do that very thing, but due to the way the CR-6 Max (and CR-6 SE) uses a load cell to probe the surface of the bed this is rather difficult to do. I am not aware of any clean ways to do this at the moment, so right now I'm just using the best Bowden configuration I can. I think there may be some good options to use a Bondtech LGX Lite to make a pseudo-direct drive setup work at some point in the near future. That extruder is really nice.
do you recall how long the fractal pyramid took to print?
That was a 96-hour long print. It used a full 1kg spool of IC3D's recycled PETG, and it was well worth it. 🙂
What slicer software do you use? I don't see the printer on cura
Right now I primarily use Simplify3D. But I've been wanting to switch over to PrusaSlicer for a while now. I just haven't taken the time to learn that completely different interface quite yet. Simplify3D has a profile built for the CR-6 Max that their support team sent me. Otherwise you can create your own based on the CR-6 SE profile with a few small tweaks. After all, this is just the "Max" version of that same printer.
Im looking for a Printer with a big Printing bed for Buckets (Mandalorian Helmets) what do you guys recommend?
There are actually quite a lot of options for printing decently large items like this. Assuming you're just planning to use PLA and are willing to do some post-processing, then a hobby-level machine like the 6-Max could be a good option. If you don't quite need a full 400mm x 400mm bed then you could look at some of the slightly smaller machines out there. If you want a kit, then the the Voron 350 Would give you a 350 x 350 bed size. Hard to make a recommendation just based on this, but maybe some of the other commenters can offer suggestions!
@@ecostruder Thanks for the help. Currently im using a Neptune 2S for smaller prints :D
Hi do you have the community firmware link i can only find the SE version. I have the micro swiss hot end but cant find find the dual gear extruder.
Sure, here's the firmware I have on my CR-6 Max now: github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases/download/v2.0.7.3-cr6-community-release-6/CR6Comm-CF6-Final-cr6-max-stock-mb-2021-03-27-15-52.zip
I just installed the Micro Swiss Bowden extruder on my CR-6 Max yesterday. I had to switch it around and install it backward, then shim up the filament detection sensor to get it to align correctly. After working with it I'm not sure it's a great option for the CR-6 SE or Max (or the CR-10 Smart) since they have that sensor right next to the extruder and it's clearly not meant for that. I'm happy with mine, but it's not exactly a perfect fit.
@@ecostruder Hi Brandon, have you seen any improvements since installation your Micro Swiss hot end and Bowden extruder?
@@davidkittell1591 I love my all-metal hotend. It doesn't clog up nearly as much, and I no longer have to worry about PTFE in my hotend. The Bowden extruder has been installed...backward...and with some modifications. It hasn't been thoroughly tested, yet. Based purely on the installation process I'd say it's not ideal for any printers that have a filament sensor directly next to the extruder, such as the CR-6 SE, CR-6 Max, and CR-10 Smart. But I still like it.
Hi, Nice video! im trying to work out if i have enough space for this monster! could someone kindly tell me what the measurement is from foot to foot width & Length-Many thanks!
Thanks for watching! To get all 4 feet on your desk you're going to need 22 inches from front to back and 20 inches from side to side. Keep in mind that's just the location of the feet. The bed moves front to back, so you need a lot of room for that, and the spool holder is off to the left side, so you're going to need quite a bit of room for that as well. Good luck with your new machine!
@@ecostruder Many thanks! Appreciate the advice!
any alternatives to this machine on the market looking for a large print bed
There really aren't very many in this size category and in this price range. Creality had some older models, such as the CR-10 S4, but that is discontinued now. Tronxy has one with a 400mm bed, but I haven't heard good things about that. There are also the Anycubic Chiron or Anet E12, but I don't know much about those machines. Good luck with whatever you end up picking!
@@ecostruder thanks for letting me now cheers
Do you mod printers and sell them?
Hey there! We sell printers, and also offer a printer repair and modification service, so yes, those could be done at the same time. If you're interested in discussing it further please reach out to products@hsp3d.com and we'll talk through what you want!
If you add M413 S0 in the Start G-code for the printer in your slicer the the Zits in Vase mode will dissappear.
This disables the Power Loss Recovery feature, though right? It makes sense that it would eliminate the problem, but it also eliminates the advantage of the feature. Good to have the option, though. Thanks!
Just got mine and 2 days in it died. No power what so ever. Contacted creality and of course they want me to do all this testing and send me replacement parts. For the money I paid and having it a couple of days I feel I should not have to go thru all of this. Would you buy a new car only to have to tear down the engine 2 days later and fix it yourself?? No you wouldnt.
Wow, that sounds like a pretty bad experience. Really sorry to hear it, but thanks for posting it in the comments so everyone can benefit. Good to hear all sides.
im about to throw this extruder at the wall
Oh no! It's certainly not my favorite extruder out there, but it does work. If you'd want to to upgrade then I can highly recommend the Bondtech BMG. I like the Micro Swiss dual gear bowden extruder, but it doesn't line up properly with the Creality filament detection sensor on this printer. I'm currently using the Bondtech LGX Lite set up in direct drive with a Micro Swiss all metal hotend. It is working so incredibly well. Their newest version, the LGX Lite Arrow seems to be a more refined version of what I'm currently using, and far more attractive: www.bondtech.se/product/lgx-lite-arrow-for-creality/. Whichever way you go with it, I cannot advise throwing printer parts at the wall...no matter how much of a jerk the wall is being.
@@ecostruder i ended up going with the microswiss, just got it installed this morning. I had to kinda rig the filament sensor so it would have the same orientation. works great!
that whole setup you linked looks really sleek!
i felt bad for my wall hahahah!
thank you!