This video was right on time. I'm only 2 days into using a router and I've already chopped up 2 pieces due to kickback. This advice definitely helps. I'll be ordering the Amana tools bit today. Thanks!
The key on the bit is spiral versus straight cutter. Spiral or compression bits provide the shearing cut that makes for a better finish and a safer cut.
Two of the big benefits of spiral bits is less tear out and less likely to kick back. A compression (up & down) spiral bit reduces tear out on both the top and bottom of the board by cutting downward from the top and upward from the bottom at the same time. In this particular case though, were both the top and bottom is going to get profiled, tear out is not a big deal.
The Amana 46297 is listed as a solid carbide spiral downcut ultra trim router bit, for about $75...sounds like a "semi-pro" level bit to me, though I personally have found the more expensive spiral up/down solid carbide bits an excellent investment for certain project applicarions...(David)
Great video !!! you have described in detail the right way of using the router. I have just checked out your website,and i think a whole other wood working world just opened up to me.I will ordering the molds and templates for sure,especially any nautical designs.I am really glad i found this channel.
I'm definitely going to be ordering some of these (3 or 4) just have to decide which ones since they are on sale. I'm going to be looking for the ones that match the silicon moulds since I'm looking to learn resin soon.
Sean, I've been through 2 of the $80 Amana bits so far. Both broke due to kickback on the rounded edges and interior edges of the handles. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Do you have any more suggestins?
May I ask, is the router bit and up cut or down cut. I have a trend and dewalt router and am not sure what speed they should run at as its from 1-7 on both and I have aa1/4 and a 1/2 inch router bit and I have followed your tutorial and have had three nasty kickbacks using up cut spiral router bits. Please could you help.
Don, they work as well. My understanding is you get the best of up-cut and down-cut, as long as you keep the wood in the middle. Seems like it would be beneficial but I have yet to use one with our templates here in the shop.
Thank you very much for that. I actually have your free flow handle template along with 2 other handle templates. I also have one of your cheese board templates. Haven't got to use it yet but excited to. I have a question tho..I was using my router table but had a bad kick back and it scared me pretty bad. Now I know why. I have a huge half inch bit in that thing. I want to get the same bit you are using but when I bought my table from its previous owner it only came with a half inch collet. It's a porter cable 2.5 hp I beleive. It's a big router. My question is can you put a reducing collet on my router???? I tried to mount my dewalt fixed based router to the table but it's too small. It's a jessem router table
Hi Matthew. Thats common, most routers come with a 1/4" and 1/2" collet. I assume if you bought it used perhaps the previous owner lost and didnt give you the 1/4" collet, but you can definitely get them.
So, I have the cow and pig template. Everything is going great until I get to the hooves part, or just in general, tight spaces, and I get tear out. I go slow, hold firmly, have the bits, and right when I hit that tight spot, a small chunk goes. Im at a loss of what to do at this point. When you have time, what are your thoughts?
Hi Bradley. Honestly all the tips and tricks I have up my sleeves are in this video. Perhaps try a different, higher quality bit, or speed up your router.
You are an excellent teacher, Sean! Thank you for putting out this video. It was so good, that I subscribed to your channel because of it. :-) One safety note, though: The blade on your band saw was too exposed for comfort. ;-) I wish you continued success!
Paul. I wish i could provide input on this but I rarely ever use a handheld router, I find my router table covers 95% of what I ever want to do here in the shop.
I’ve used both the table and handheld. When using a handheld router, to avoid the kickback or a run on, I push the bit straight towards the template. When it stops, I pull back, move over a bit width and repeat. This reduces the amount of wood outside my line and I can then make a smooth run. It also eliminates any tear out that might happen. May not be the “right” way to do it, but it works for me.
Hi. I have purchased 4 or 5 of your templates, and have been putting them to use on a number of boards. I listened to your video and even purchased the expensive bit you suggest. I confess I am a bit confused about your suggestion to push the board “against” the rotation. The rotation is counter clockwise as you mention, which means, I think , that the board should be pushed from right to left when relatively straight. When the template is curved, however, you are no longer going “against” the rotation when you get to the other side of the circle, as it were. When I have stopped there to start elsewhere, to move against the rotation, I have a lot of kickback, have ruined two boards now, and the bushings on my new bit flew off, never to be seen again. This always happens when I am rounding the bend, as it were, of your handle templates. Any suggestions I am finding this very frustrating? Thanks.
Its hard for me to truly visualize what you are describing for me to provide insight. However if you do end up stopping somewhere, you shouldn't get kickback starting again because you should be starting at a point of your piece that has already been trimmed with the router in the last past, then proceeding to the part that you need to continue trimming. The bushings flying off is strange, I have never had that happen before so im at a loss. If you purchased the bit from Amazon though, you can return it for a refund, even if its damaged.
Love the content as always! I am curious if you have a good video or advice on doing the cuts that are inside the template (the holes). The exterior cuts are all going well, but I am consistently getting kickback on the interior cuts. I am using the 1/4" downcut but that you suggested in the video, and am trimming away lot of the material. Selfishly I would love to see a video specifically on this subject. Thanks again for the great content!
Hi Caleb. I don't have a video on that specifically, but personally I have never had an issue with kickback on the interior holes or handle parts. This might be a dumb question but are you sure you are going against the direction of spin on the router bit?
@@CraftedElements I think so. If I am viewing your technique correctly it is; push the material towards the bit and move in a counterclockwise rotation around the template. I always have the issue right when I start, so I'm guessing it's a question of finesse when starting, and holding it firm enough to keep moving in that counterclockwise rotation.
I havent used a router yet, but you got kick back on those bit because they were straight bits. Straights cut more wood at a time. The 80 dollar on is a spiral LOL
Good video. I definitely agree with the Amana 46297 assessment versus the other flush trim bits shown in this video. Yes, the Amana is pretty expensive, but so far well worth the cost. It has definitely allowed me to cut more intricate template patterns without the kickback/chip-out that I've experienced using other bits. The only question I have is how long should I expect the Amana bit to last?
Funny you should ask because later that day (post filming) i was trimming acrylic and destroyed the bit (it cracked in half!). But... I was likely using it for 2-3 months by this point.
After blowing out a couple boards, I "bit" the bullet and bought a Whiteside UDFT5152. It's a 1/2" shank 1/2" cd but works great on crazy grain boards with less flex than a 1/4" bit.
@@ronkrueger3496 My thoughts exactly.......I would think that a 1/4" bit after it's been milled is prone to flex....I'll be looking at a 1/2" bit as well.
i feel i agree with the tips on the template routing, but dont agree with the height you have the upper guides set on your bandsaw!..lower that dude down so it close to your work piece
Not sure how your not getting kickback. Must be your bit/router speed. I am using a dewalt palm router on a table like that but max rpm is not very high. Tried many bits all spiral including compression and on cross grains 1/8th is still to much, bites every time, with grain its fine. May have to look at a bigger router, mostly doing band saw then sanding the cross grains now but its slow. Forstner bits work great for holes.
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This video was right on time. I'm only 2 days into using a router and I've already chopped up 2 pieces due to kickback. This advice definitely helps. I'll be ordering the Amana tools bit today. Thanks!
Ha! Glad we could help Cheryl.
Same thing with me. Ruined two pieces.
It definitely helped me. I had something kick back multiple times last weekend and it tore it up.
Thank you, Shawn!
San Antonio, TX
The key on the bit is spiral versus straight cutter. Spiral or compression bits provide the shearing cut that makes for a better finish and a safer cut.
Two of the big benefits of spiral bits is less tear out and less likely to kick back.
A compression (up & down) spiral bit reduces tear out on both the top and bottom of the board by cutting downward from the top and upward from the bottom at the same time.
In this particular case though, were both the top and bottom is going to get profiled, tear out is not a big deal.
Very helpful, would it be possible to demonstrate the routing of the flame style 2 template? Thank you!
thank you! I just bought some router templates from you. I'm very excited to have them, and I'm glad to have this video!
I don't have a router table so would you happen to have any info/advice on decent bit using a handheld?
You’ll still use a 1/4” bit but the bearing needs to be on the top of the bit (closest to the router) so the template will be on top of the workpiece.
Thanks for another excellent demonstration Sean, you are my encyclopaedia on this subject. Brilliant!
Thanks for saying so Stuart!
Is the bit you use an uncut or downcut bit? I recently purchased an amana 51520 down cut, and it seems to still get some tearout and some kick back
I use a large sharpie, leaves a heavy black line that accounts for the offset you mentioned. Great video!
That makes sense and would certainly work as well!
A large sharpie is a staple in my template tracing also
@@bentucker1377 There must be something to this sharpie thing!
The Amana 46297 is listed as a solid carbide spiral downcut ultra trim router bit, for about $75...sounds like a "semi-pro" level bit to me, though I personally have found the more expensive spiral up/down solid carbide bits an excellent investment for certain project applicarions...(David)
Great video !!! you have described in detail the right way of using the router. I have just checked out your website,and i think a whole other wood working world just opened up to me.I will ordering the molds and templates for sure,especially any nautical designs.I am really glad i found this channel.
Thanks for saying so and thanks for stopping by.
Great tips thank you for your fine details and easy to follow video.
I'm definitely going to be ordering some of these (3 or 4) just have to decide which ones since they are on sale. I'm going to be looking for the ones that match the silicon moulds since I'm looking to learn resin soon.
I’m glad you showed that router. I have the same one and was wondering if it was decent
For these projects.
Totally does the job!
Love your products.
I use isopropyl alcohol to take off glue stick. It weakens the glue nicely.
The video instruction that I'm looking for! Thanks
You are most welcome!
Sean, I've been through 2 of the $80 Amana bits so far. Both broke due to kickback on the rounded edges and interior edges of the handles. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Do you have any more suggestins?
Nice demo. Thanks.
Thanks for saying so Kevin.
Just my two cents advice, the easy way to remember - if is inside cut, go clockwise, if it is outside cut, go counter clockwise.
May I ask, is the router bit and up cut or down cut. I have a trend and dewalt router and am not sure what speed they should run at as its from 1-7 on both and I have aa1/4 and a 1/2 inch router bit and I have followed your tutorial and have had three nasty kickbacks using up cut spiral router bits. Please could you help.
These are generally downcut router bits. We run them around 18,000 rpm.
You might also be interested in another youtube video describing a starter pin: ruclips.net/video/8KYZ1lcufxc/видео.html
What are your thoughts on using a 1/4" compression bit instead of a spiral cut bit?
Don, they work as well. My understanding is you get the best of up-cut and down-cut, as long as you keep the wood in the middle. Seems like it would be beneficial but I have yet to use one with our templates here in the shop.
It would be nice if you answered the questions in the comment. How are you cutting all the way thru the wood but not into the template
The bearing on the bit, rides along the template.
Thank you very much for that. I actually have your free flow handle template along with 2 other handle templates. I also have one of your cheese board templates. Haven't got to use it yet but excited to. I have a question tho..I was using my router table but had a bad kick back and it scared me pretty bad. Now I know why. I have a huge half inch bit in that thing. I want to get the same bit you are using but when I bought my table from its previous owner it only came with a half inch collet. It's a porter cable 2.5 hp I beleive. It's a big router. My question is can you put a reducing collet on my router???? I tried to mount my dewalt fixed based router to the table but it's too small. It's a jessem router table
Hi Matthew. Thats common, most routers come with a 1/4" and 1/2" collet. I assume if you bought it used perhaps the previous owner lost and didnt give you the 1/4" collet, but you can definitely get them.
thx bro, nice material for own safe
How long do you let the hot glue set up?
About a minute or so.
Literally seconds... I get the template down as soon as i can or the glue with dry.
Excellent!
So, I have the cow and pig template. Everything is going great until I get to the hooves part, or just in general, tight spaces, and I get tear out. I go slow, hold firmly, have the bits, and right when I hit that tight spot, a small chunk goes. Im at a loss of what to do at this point. When you have time, what are your thoughts?
Hi Bradley. Honestly all the tips and tricks I have up my sleeves are in this video. Perhaps try a different, higher quality bit, or speed up your router.
You are an excellent teacher, Sean! Thank you for putting out this video. It was so good, that I subscribed to your channel because of it. :-) One safety note, though: The blade on your band saw was too exposed for comfort. ;-) I wish you continued success!
Thanks for your input on this Lupe. Ill be the first to mention I was less than attentive in "shop safety class". Thank you for the response on that.
Great tips. Thanks. I don't have a router table so I use a hand held router. Still get some kickback. Is there anything different I need to do?
Paul. I wish i could provide input on this but I rarely ever use a handheld router, I find my router table covers 95% of what I ever want to do here in the shop.
@@CraftedElements Thanks. Guess a router table is ony Christmas Wish list LOL.
I’ve used both the table and handheld. When using a handheld router, to avoid the kickback or a run on, I push the bit straight towards the template. When it stops, I pull back, move over a bit width and repeat. This reduces the amount of wood outside my line and I can then make a smooth run. It also eliminates any tear out that might happen. May not be the “right” way to do it, but it works for me.
Hi. I have purchased 4 or 5 of your templates, and have been putting them to use on a number of boards. I listened to your video and even purchased the expensive bit you suggest. I confess I am a bit confused about your suggestion to push the board “against” the rotation. The rotation is counter clockwise as you mention, which means, I think , that the board should be pushed from right to left when relatively straight. When the template is curved, however, you are no longer going “against” the rotation when you get to the other side of the circle, as it were. When I have stopped there to start elsewhere, to move against the rotation, I have a lot of kickback, have ruined two boards now, and the bushings on my new bit flew off, never to be seen again. This always happens when I am rounding the bend, as it were, of your handle templates. Any suggestions I am finding this very frustrating? Thanks.
Its hard for me to truly visualize what you are describing for me to provide insight. However if you do end up stopping somewhere, you shouldn't get kickback starting again because you should be starting at a point of your piece that has already been trimmed with the router in the last past, then proceeding to the part that you need to continue trimming. The bushings flying off is strange, I have never had that happen before so im at a loss. If you purchased the bit from Amazon though, you can return it for a refund, even if its damaged.
Love the content as always! I am curious if you have a good video or advice on doing the cuts that are inside the template (the holes). The exterior cuts are all going well, but I am consistently getting kickback on the interior cuts. I am using the 1/4" downcut but that you suggested in the video, and am trimming away lot of the material. Selfishly I would love to see a video specifically on this subject. Thanks again for the great content!
Hi Caleb. I don't have a video on that specifically, but personally I have never had an issue with kickback on the interior holes or handle parts. This might be a dumb question but are you sure you are going against the direction of spin on the router bit?
@@CraftedElements I think so. If I am viewing your technique correctly it is; push the material towards the bit and move in a counterclockwise rotation around the template. I always have the issue right when I start, so I'm guessing it's a question of finesse when starting, and holding it firm enough to keep moving in that counterclockwise rotation.
I havent used a router yet, but you got kick back on those bit because they were straight bits. Straights cut more wood at a time. The 80 dollar on is a spiral LOL
spirals can also cause severe kickback if you do not follow his tips.
Good video. I definitely agree with the Amana 46297 assessment versus the other flush trim bits shown in this video. Yes, the Amana is pretty expensive, but so far well worth the cost. It has definitely allowed me to cut more intricate template patterns without the kickback/chip-out that I've experienced using other bits. The only question I have is how long should I expect the Amana bit to last?
Funny you should ask because later that day (post filming) i was trimming acrylic and destroyed the bit (it cracked in half!). But... I was likely using it for 2-3 months by this point.
After blowing out a couple boards, I "bit" the bullet and bought a Whiteside UDFT5152. It's a 1/2" shank 1/2" cd but works great on crazy grain boards with less flex than a 1/4" bit.
@@ronkrueger3496 Nice... Well if it works for you and has no kickback, get it done!
Any suggestions as to the best place to buy the Amana bit in Canada?
@@ronkrueger3496 My thoughts exactly.......I would think that a 1/4" bit after it's been milled is prone to flex....I'll be looking at a 1/2" bit as well.
i feel i agree with the tips on the template routing, but dont agree with the height you have the upper guides set on your bandsaw!..lower that dude down so it close to your work piece
Reckon the hole is the riskiest bit if that grabs
Not sure how your not getting kickback. Must be your bit/router speed. I am using a dewalt palm router on a table like that but max rpm is not very high. Tried many bits all spiral including compression and on cross grains 1/8th is still to much, bites every time, with grain its fine. May have to look at a bigger router, mostly doing band saw then sanding the cross grains now but its slow. Forstner bits work great for holes.
I must have different hot glue. My hot glue is nearly impossible to get it off
Try using smaller amounts of glue per spot. My spots push out to about 1/2” when I attach the template.