Colin, I've been a woodworker for nearly 50 years and use routers a lot. I have 2 mounted in tables and several others, of various sizes, that are used hand-held. I spent years figuring out which direction to feed the wood into the bit. Especially when switching from the table to hand-held, inside versus outside, right side up versus upside down, etc. It was humbling making circles in the air with my fingers (imitating the bit rotation) and trying to "imagine" the correct orientation while using this simple tool !! I hope your video helps new woodworkers figure this out and they can explore the amazing versatility of routers. Thx.
Thanx for posting this video! I'm not sure why I never put it together that the bit cuts into the wood like a saw blade. You have made it so much easier for me to 'see' which way to feed the wood into the router bit. I will probably turn to the router table for projects much more now .
I love routers. I’m a guitar maker. I own four large routers… one is a plunge and another is in a table, and a laminate trimmer. In lutherie they are most often used with pattern bits and patterns. But also for round overs and cutting slots.
That’s the best description I’ve heard of how to determine which direction the router (or wood on a table) needs to move for proper & safe operation. I won’t forget this!
Hi Colin, Thank you for this video. I bought my first router in 1982. It was a heavy B&D unit rated at 1 hp but I am sure that was an understatement. I hated using it. I would turn it on and it would twist in my hand and was impossible to manage. So my answer was to go back in time in buy a Stanley (Record) combination plane with a bunch of cutters. Fast forward to 2011 and I finally bought a complete router table (Freud - much like the one that you use). It was great, but for doing edges it was ungainly. So time for more research. Technology to the rescue. There are now "soft start" routers that do not try to break your wrist. A Bosch 1617 soon found a home. Then a trim router (Milwaukee - like yours). Yes use guides and jigs. But certainly avoid garage sale special routers that lack soft start, speed control (slower for bigger bits) and electronic adjustment of speed to respond to the material while keeping a constant speed. If anyone wants to buy my B&D his name is Lucifer...
Another tip for people who have router fear is to get the Bosch router that has the trigger. Not only is it a great plunge router and super powerful to do anything you could want, but the knowledge that it will stop when you let go of the trigger is more comforting than a switch that's gonna stay on no matter what. Kinda like the difference between switch and paddle angle grinders. I don't have router fear but I do have angle grinder fear and hate the switch variety but I"m fine with paddle variety. And you can set a lock to hold the trigger for you because squeezing it can get tiring. You just press the trigger again to shut it off when it's "locked."
I have made more woodworking errors with my router than any other power tool. I've learned to not "freehand' anything, and have bearings or fences all over to keep the bit from going somewhere I don't want!
Earlier today I watch the video about the Mastercraft plunge and fixed router. You gave me the information I needed to clean up my router after the Long Covid Winter. Thanks for that.
Tack Colin för dina intressanta videor. Du är en duktig instruktör som inte bara visar hur man gör utan hur verktygen fungerar och varför. Jag väntar alltid otåligt på nästa lektion av dig. 👏
I really have enjoyed my router, a Craftsman that is twenty six years old! It still works well but is harder to adjust and has few features compared to our modern ones so I bought a Bosch. Its got issues of quality but YT video's have addressed them. So mush easier to work with. Ya see, I cannot afford an expensive jointer, or tables saw that uses a dado stack so routing is the answer. Also, their so versatile. Ive watched your router video's Colin and have learned so much and your router jigs are so dang amazing!!! Thank you!!!
Feed opposing rotation of the router bit for 99% of your work. On the very rare occasion a climb cut is necessary* use extreme caution. * ie when the grain pattern causes chip out even when taking very shallow cuts. This from 50+ years of woodworking and I still have all my fingers. Always use proper dust control, eye and hearing protection
My first thought was I had done it right so why did my board go flying? But then I realized that using the fence put my work behind the bit so should have reversed direction. It's tricky how that changes things. I'm intrigued by the bearing bits; they look like they'd save me a lot of grief. Will look into them.
Colin enjoy your videos, excelllent . I am recovering from a router injury, router table, 1/2 bit , all fine , for a few passes, then it wobbled , never forget that sight, it dislodged and chewed up two fingers right hand . I still have them healing well a few sutures and splint due to bones broken . I may not have had the bit tight enough, or I may have tried to cut too much wood . :):):)
Hi Colin, I'm hoping you could make a video about your workshop set up? I'm interested to see/hear how you store items. For instance the wood planes behind you in the rack, clamp rack, and I've previously seen on the other side smaller tools hanging inside doors. What priority/proximity considerations do you employ for frequently used tools? It would be super handy for me as I'm establishing my bench/workshop. Thank you, Kerry
I have 1 arm/leg, and I almost ONLY use routers. I don't use table saws or bandsaws, as I use routers for things like dados or shaped cuts. To me, the router is the best tool out there. I use several jigs, and mount systems for different things. Basically, a track saw and router (and/or router tables) can do everything you might need if you have the right bits and setup.
@johnnycorn7225 what brand is it? The Makita/Festool guide rails are too flexible and thin to get very accurate routing with the factory, and aftermarket router adapters.
I have the M Power jig, and like it pretty well. But even it can hang on the corner of a board or drop down when getting near the end of the workpiece. Another thing that gives me trouble is cutting a slot in a workpiece; both sides of the bit are in contact with the workpiece.
I think this was a great video, but I have a question. Is it just me, or is grain direction very important? It seems that I always get inconsistent "cuts" when it is hard to tell the direction of the grain. Even with a guide bearing or fence. (Personal opinion observation: Do not be afraid to make a longer video. Some of us actually have attention spans and would be happy to see more info/demonstrations. My 2 cents.)
Great video, thanks, Colin!! I have good results using a router table. I'm not that strong, so it's easier to move the wood than the router. But even with more control the router has been intimidating. Your video sure helped. 😊
Thanks, I am looking for that edge guide to drill holes in 3/4 lumber omg the sides so I can either put screws on an edge or dowels to join 2 pieces of wood.... But I don't know how to search that one.
Great video. I really enjoyed watching your advices. Can you make part two for this video? I think you can add stuff like the correct depth that should be applied, what to do if a tooth breaks and maybe which router bit to use for specific job for example if I have a tunnel which is 1 inch wide should I use a quarter diameter bit and do many passes or should I prefer the larger one with less passes
When I started woodworking, the only machine that terrified me was the router. I've gotten used to the table router, but I'm still fairly afraid of the hand-held, either trim or plunge. The bit turns SO fast, and argues with some kinds of wood, as well as end-grain sometimes. Kicks out so fast. I have a healthy respect for the table saw, but this is the only tool that still terrifies me. However, I've never had someone explain in detail as you have. Still terrified, but I'll just have to get over myself, right? Thanks for a great video.
I am not so afraid of injuring myself, because I have great respect for machines, and the danger they pose. It is when using a bit with a guide bearing and moving the router along a workpiece. It is so easy to tilt it a tiny bit, which makes a bobble. The cord seems to find things to catch on, and when it tugs on the router, ugh!
Generally, move the thing you move (Router if holding it, Material if router in a table) anti-clockwise around the outer edges and clockwise for internal (cut-out) cuts.
I think the biggest source of fear is the confusion when you turn the bit “upside down” and sometimes proceed to cut all the way around the edges of a piece of lumber - or all the way around an interior opening. Sometimes you cut with the lumber pushed against the fence; sometimes you cut between the fence and the lumber.
Yes, the bit is cutting in the opposite direction on the opposite side. Those you mentioned are both common instances resulting in "climb cuts", where I think a lot of the confusion rests. As I understand it, the spin of the bit should push against the work vs. the spin of the bit pulling the router along the work. Update: Whatever direction it's spinning, the router bit's blade should scoop up the wood in front of it like a shovel, NOT claw the wood down and backwards like a rake. Maybe that's clearer?
I've always thought when using a handheld router, go in the opposite direction of what you would using a router table. Just imagine anything vertical as if it were horizontal. I hope that makes sense.
Just make a pointing hand with your fingers of right hand. Point your thumb towards the surface to be routed. Your finger will now point in the direction the router must move.
Colin you didn't mention depth of cut I think this is an important factor. If your trying to get a smooth finish you should take a rough out cut and a finish cut. And to get a very fine finish cut, you would feed the wood in the opposite direction, a climb cut of only a few thousands.
The thing that makes me the most nervous in operating my router is the loud, high pitch wail of the motor. I can't understand why many power tools are so loud to operate. While I wear earplugs that dampen the sound, the earplugs seem to also dampen my total awareness of what is happening. I have a high respect for my tools and use safety precautions anytime I use them. I just wish they were't so loud.
Uhh. I fear that routers are so far beyond my skillset atm. Only uses i know for them are adding detailing to a board or cutting a track for a sliding tray. Do you know of an even more basic router demo and explanation? I'm new to your channel so im still digging into library, lol. But I'm super new to carpentry and diy and still learning terminology and tools. To the point i don't even know what stuff to look up to learn more in some cases, lmao. I'm building a fancy quail coop as practice before trying ro build some custom furniture once i get basics down. A router can engrave and add designs for that?
I learned 2 respect routers after putting a handheld 1 with 1/4 round bit through bottom of my thumb and came out under my nail on the side. luckily I managed 2 not damage bone. still use em to this day. just pay closer attn now
For router feed / cutting direction, I have a simpler method of remembering that I also learned on RUclips. If you're holding the router, you're always working / cutting moving towards the right (that is working starting from the left to right). If mounted in a table, the router is now upside down, so your feed direction is from the right to left.
If you are holding a router, you may NOT be routing the the front of the board, you may be routing the back, in which case you go the opposite direction, so you can't tell people you always "move toward the right".
I use mine indoors in my living room, the foor is easy to sweep and that's totally fine. When I can I use the shop vac, but most of the time it's not that effective for me. But the router produces relatively thick shavings, so they don't fly very far. Not much dust.
I'm pretty confident with a handheld router and working off the fence on a table,.. but going freehand with a bearing bit on the router table still makes me a bit anxious. Why can't all the tools in the shop be like the band saw! Hahaha!
@@DrMackSplackem The bandsaw is my favorite tool in my shop. Very versatile, and no earplugs needed. I use it almost exclusively for resawing and rip-cuts though, and use a nice thick blade, so maybe that is why I don't have all the complaints that other people do.
I've had my router 30+ years and while it bit my fingertip once, {my fault} it's never hurt me yet. If used properly it's no more dangerous than any other power tool.
Never really been scared of the router table. More so when you hold a router by hand. What happens if something rips it out of your hand and you drop it? The bit still spins.. On most other hand tools you at least also then lose grip of the trigger that keeps the motor going. But a router has an on/off switch. Always found that a bit sketchy. Same with a dremmel or angle grinder. Dont understand how they cannot have a trigger instead. That maybe you could lock only if you decide.
The router is the one tool that scares me witless. Especially the one I've "inherited" from my father in law which is difficult to adjust in the little table it's mounted in. I'm not sure I'd be quite so scared if I could afford a router lift.
Not sure how you can accidentally feed the wood the wrong direction and climb cut on a router table because everyone that I have had shows the feed direction right on the table.
Even absent that convenience, you can just pulse and watch the bit as it slows to a stop. You likely know the following information, but climb cuts can really save you at times. If you're working with highly figured material and the grain will be showing in the final product, I like to draw reverse arrows or put some thin tape where the grain changes direction throughout the routing path. I then leave those areas alone until I climb route them after the 1st, standard pass. This way, there's little chance of tear-out. Tiny bites are the ticket w/ this type of operation, of course.
In regard to a router TABLE, there are a few comments on here that appear to state that a cut is being made BETWEEN the bit and the fence??? That is a complete no-no and something I was told never to do and never even thought about doing it....why would anyone think this is how a router should be used????? If you're routering a channel in a board (so in essence part of the board is 'trapped' between the bit and the fence) this is NOT the same thing.
If I understand you correctly, that's totally fine and I do it all the time. You just make sure that the feed direction opposes the rotational cutting force of the bit (CCW on all bottom-mounted, table-installed routers I've ever come across). It's the best 'jobsite' method to make boards w/ true parallel opposing sides with just a straight piece of lumber as a fence. You can even choose to break this rule in certain special cases, though note that tear-out isn't really avoided, it's just served up in the form of the router trying to tear the work piece out of your hands, rather than in the fibers themselves getting jack-splintered in place.
On the topic of personal safety equipment - a mask is almost always good, and absolutely necessary with some bits and materials to avoid inhaling fine, toxic dust
Come on, baby (don't fear the router) Baby, take my hand (don't fear the router) We'll be able to fly (don't fear the router) Baby, I'm your man Edit: I know we were all thinking it, hahahahha.
Yes I know, but most people understand hp and not amp ratings. What you say is correct, but remember too, "under load" those electric motor will temporarily draw more amp which does equate to a jump in hp, and that's what they take the liberty to rate them as
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I love, love, love how you explain things at a very basic level without talking down to us. You have helped me so much!
Thanks Pam
Thank you Collin. Routers can be very intimidating.
I have several routers and have used them for years, but have never seen them better explained. You are amazing ! 😊
Colin, I've been a woodworker for nearly 50 years and use routers a lot. I have 2 mounted in tables and several others, of various sizes, that are used hand-held. I spent years figuring out which direction to feed the wood into the bit. Especially when switching from the table to hand-held, inside versus outside, right side up versus upside down, etc. It was humbling making circles in the air with my fingers (imitating the bit rotation) and trying to "imagine" the correct orientation while using this simple tool !! I hope your video helps new woodworkers figure this out and they can explore the amazing versatility of routers. Thx.
Thanks Colin as always your Manor and approach is perfect your tutorials are always great Thanks
I have to say, You are the most understandable person on RUclips. (MOST EDUCATIONAL)..Thank you!
Thanx for posting this video! I'm not sure why I never put it together that the bit cuts into the wood like a saw blade. You have made it so much easier for me to 'see' which way to feed the wood into the router bit. I will probably turn to the router table for projects much more now .
Good for you to keep trying ...
I love routers. I’m a guitar maker. I own four large routers… one is a plunge and another is in a table, and a laminate trimmer. In lutherie they are most often used with pattern bits and patterns. But also for round overs and cutting slots.
Excellent, I will check out your channel :)
That’s the best description I’ve heard of how to determine which direction the router (or wood on a table) needs to move for proper & safe operation. I won’t forget this!
Literally haven't even unboxed mine as I'm too nervous, having watching so many warnings on RUclips! You've encouraged me to make a start.
Best thing is to get it out, read the manual, then WITHOUT ANY BITS INSTALLED ... practice holding it and turning off and on, that will help too
Routers generally don't kill people (it's those damn bits that'll get you, 99 times out of a hundred).
I have always struggled with knowing which way to feed the wood. Thank you helping us understand this clearly.
Very helpful and going a long way to reduce my fears of routers!
So, feed the blade. Fantastic video!
Hi Colin, Thank you for this video.
I bought my first router in 1982. It was a heavy B&D unit rated at 1 hp but I am sure that was an understatement.
I hated using it. I would turn it on and it would twist in my hand and was impossible to manage.
So my answer was to go back in time in buy a Stanley (Record) combination plane with a bunch of cutters.
Fast forward to 2011 and I finally bought a complete router table (Freud - much like the one that you use). It was great, but for doing edges it was ungainly.
So time for more research. Technology to the rescue.
There are now "soft start" routers that do not try to break your wrist. A Bosch 1617 soon found a home. Then a trim router (Milwaukee - like yours).
Yes use guides and jigs. But certainly avoid garage sale special routers that lack soft start, speed control (slower for bigger bits) and electronic adjustment of speed to respond to the material while keeping a constant speed.
If anyone wants to buy my B&D his name is Lucifer...
Thanks for your relating your info Gerhard
Another tip for people who have router fear is to get the Bosch router that has the trigger. Not only is it a great plunge router and super powerful to do anything you could want, but the knowledge that it will stop when you let go of the trigger is more comforting than a switch that's gonna stay on no matter what. Kinda like the difference between switch and paddle angle grinders. I don't have router fear but I do have angle grinder fear and hate the switch variety but I"m fine with paddle variety. And you can set a lock to hold the trigger for you because squeezing it can get tiring. You just press the trigger again to shut it off when it's "locked."
thanks for the tip Carl
Thank you for all that useful information 👍🏼
I have made more woodworking errors with my router than any other power tool. I've learned to not "freehand' anything, and have bearings or fences all over to keep the bit from going somewhere I don't want!
Earlier today I watch the video about the Mastercraft plunge and fixed router. You gave me the information I needed to clean up my router after the Long Covid Winter. Thanks for that.
I have been waiting for this video for years!!!
Tack Colin för dina intressanta videor. Du är en duktig instruktör som inte bara visar hur man gör utan hur verktygen fungerar och varför. Jag väntar alltid otåligt på nästa lektion av dig. 👏
I really have enjoyed my router, a Craftsman that is twenty six years old! It still works well but is harder to adjust and has few features compared to our modern ones so I bought a Bosch. Its got issues of quality but YT video's have addressed them. So mush easier to work with. Ya see, I cannot afford an expensive jointer, or tables saw that uses a dado stack so routing is the answer. Also, their so versatile. Ive watched your router video's Colin and have learned so much and your router jigs are so dang amazing!!! Thank you!!!
Thanks!
Many thanks Colin, a very useful video. I only have a small router (a Dremel add-on) but this certainly explains why it ‘jumps’.
Thanks a bunch for all the tips, Colin! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great advice. My dad taught me to respect the tool, not fear it.
Excellent information. Learned something. Thank you.
Thanks for the great video Colin.
thanks for the good explanation
Thank you for this! You’ve helped demystify things for me, and finally I’m ready to practice & experiment.
Thanks for the feedback Valerie
top explanation. so simple and so smart
Feed opposing rotation of the router bit for 99% of your work. On the very rare occasion a climb cut is necessary* use extreme caution.
* ie when the grain pattern causes chip out even when taking very shallow cuts.
This from 50+ years of woodworking and I still have all my fingers.
Always use proper dust control, eye and hearing protection
Thanks buddy 👍🏴❤️
OMG! THANKS 🎉🎉🎉😅 now i know 😊
Good friend. Thanks
My first thought was I had done it right so why did my board go flying? But then I realized that using the fence put my work behind the bit so should have reversed direction. It's tricky how that changes things.
I'm intrigued by the bearing bits; they look like they'd save me a lot of grief. Will look into them.
Love the videos
Keep them up please
Lots of useful info for me as a beginner!!
I seem to have missed a lot for some reason 🤔
Colin enjoy your videos, excelllent . I am recovering from a router injury, router table, 1/2 bit , all fine , for a few passes, then it wobbled , never forget that sight, it dislodged and chewed up two fingers right hand . I still have them healing well a few sutures and splint due to bones broken . I may not have had the bit tight enough, or I may have tried to cut too much wood . :):):)
Hi Colin, I'm hoping you could make a video about your workshop set up? I'm interested to see/hear how you store items. For instance the wood planes behind you in the rack, clamp rack, and I've previously seen on the other side smaller tools hanging inside doors. What priority/proximity considerations do you employ for frequently used tools?
It would be super handy for me as I'm establishing my bench/workshop.
Thank you, Kerry
New to wood working. Was scared silly of router, not do much now. Still gonna be very cautious.
That good Idea and thank to share
You are most welcome
I have 1 arm/leg, and I almost ONLY use routers.
I don't use table saws or bandsaws, as I use routers for things like dados or shaped cuts.
To me, the router is the best tool out there. I use several jigs, and mount systems for different things.
Basically, a track saw and router (and/or router tables) can do everything you might need if you have the right bits and setup.
I got a track saw with router guide combo and I just can't believe the versatility of this workstation
@johnnycorn7225 what brand is it? The Makita/Festool guide rails are too flexible and thin to get very accurate routing with the factory, and aftermarket router adapters.
I have the M Power jig, and like it pretty well. But even it can hang on the corner of a board or drop down when getting near the end of the workpiece.
Another thing that gives me trouble is cutting a slot in a workpiece; both sides of the bit are in contact with the workpiece.
thanks
I think this was a great video, but I have a question.
Is it just me, or is grain direction very important? It seems that I always get inconsistent "cuts" when it is hard to tell the direction of the grain. Even with a guide bearing or fence.
(Personal opinion observation: Do not be afraid to make a longer video. Some of us actually have attention spans and would be happy to see more info/demonstrations. My 2 cents.)
Great video, thanks, Colin!! I have good results using a router table. I'm not that strong, so it's easier to move the wood than the router. But even with more control the router has been intimidating. Your video sure helped. 😊
Thanks for that.
On my horizontal table I have a long line with an arrow with permanent marker showing the direction of feed. You can do that on any router table.
Thanks, I am looking for that edge guide to drill holes in 3/4 lumber omg the sides so I can either put screws on an edge or dowels to join 2 pieces of wood.... But I don't know how to search that one.
Great video. I really enjoyed watching your advices. Can you make part two for this video? I think you can add stuff like the correct depth that should be applied, what to do if a tooth breaks and maybe which router bit to use for specific job for example if I have a tunnel which is 1 inch wide should I use a quarter diameter bit and do many passes or should I prefer the larger one with less passes
When I started woodworking, the only machine that terrified me was the router. I've gotten used to the table router, but I'm still fairly afraid of the hand-held, either trim or plunge. The bit turns SO fast, and argues with some kinds of wood, as well as end-grain sometimes. Kicks out so fast. I have a healthy respect for the table saw, but this is the only tool that still terrifies me.
However, I've never had someone explain in detail as you have. Still terrified, but I'll just have to get over myself, right?
Thanks for a great video.
It's good to have a health respect, and lots I didn't have time to detail so stay tuned for future episodes that may help you too :)
I am not so afraid of injuring myself, because I have great respect for machines, and the danger they pose. It is when using a bit with a guide bearing and moving the router along a workpiece. It is so easy to tilt it a tiny bit, which makes a bobble. The cord seems to find things to catch on, and when it tugs on the router, ugh!
Generally, move the thing you move (Router if holding it, Material if router in a table) anti-clockwise around the outer edges and clockwise for internal (cut-out) cuts.
I think the biggest source of fear is the confusion when you turn the bit “upside down” and sometimes proceed to cut all the way around the edges of a piece of lumber - or all the way around an interior opening. Sometimes you cut with the lumber pushed against the fence; sometimes you cut between the fence and the lumber.
Yes, the bit is cutting in the opposite direction on the opposite side. Those you mentioned are both common instances resulting in "climb cuts", where I think a lot of the confusion rests. As I understand it, the spin of the bit should push against the work vs. the spin of the bit pulling the router along the work.
Update: Whatever direction it's spinning, the router bit's blade should scoop up the wood in front of it like a shovel, NOT claw the wood down and backwards like a rake. Maybe that's clearer?
I've always thought when using a handheld router, go in the opposite direction of what you would using a router table. Just imagine anything vertical as if it were horizontal. I hope that makes sense.
Just make a pointing hand with your fingers of right hand. Point your thumb towards the surface to be routed. Your finger will now point in the direction the router must move.
@@researchandbuild1751 The technique I use.
Router table push left to right, hand held router push right to left.
Colin you didn't mention depth of cut I think this is an important factor. If your trying to get a smooth finish you should take a rough out cut and a finish cut. And to get a very fine finish cut, you would feed the wood in the opposite direction, a climb cut of only a few thousands.
Yes you are correct Doug, there was lots of things I didn't mention in terms of operation, more in future episodes just not enough time in one video
In your future video, can you cover router bit speeds?
I have a fairly old Craftsman. No plunge or anything. My problem is the collet doesn't hold the bit well. :(
Having been a universal miller for all my life , I cannot believe I only got my first router at 68.
The thing that makes me the most nervous in operating my router is the loud, high pitch wail of the motor. I can't understand why many power tools are so loud to operate. While I wear earplugs that dampen the sound, the earplugs seem to also dampen my total awareness of what is happening. I have a high respect for my tools and use safety precautions anytime I use them. I just wish they were't so loud.
Uhh. I fear that routers are so far beyond my skillset atm. Only uses i know for them are adding detailing to a board or cutting a track for a sliding tray.
Do you know of an even more basic router demo and explanation? I'm new to your channel so im still digging into library, lol. But I'm super new to carpentry and diy and still learning terminology and tools. To the point i don't even know what stuff to look up to learn more in some cases, lmao.
I'm building a fancy quail coop as practice before trying ro build some custom furniture once i get basics down. A router can engrave and add designs for that?
I learned 2 respect routers after putting a handheld 1 with 1/4 round bit through bottom of my thumb and came out under my nail on the side. luckily I managed 2 not damage bone. still use em to this day. just pay closer attn now
For router feed / cutting direction, I have a simpler method of remembering that I also learned on RUclips. If you're holding the router, you're always working / cutting moving towards the right (that is working starting from the left to right). If mounted in a table, the router is now upside down, so your feed direction is from the right to left.
If you are holding a router, you may NOT be routing the the front of the board, you may be routing the back, in which case you go the opposite direction, so you can't tell people you always "move toward the right".
Another tip to improve safety is to minimize the amount of wood removed with each pass of the router, perhaps 1/32” per pass.
my biggest fear is the amount of mess that they make!
I use mine indoors in my living room, the foor is easy to sweep and that's totally fine. When I can I use the shop vac, but most of the time it's not that effective for me.
But the router produces relatively thick shavings, so they don't fly very far. Not much dust.
Lol
ルーターを送る方向は、先ず刃面を見る。これ大事だね。基本を思い出させてくれて、ありがとう。
I'm pretty confident with a handheld router and working off the fence on a table,.. but going freehand with a bearing bit on the router table still makes me a bit anxious.
Why can't all the tools in the shop be like the band saw! Hahaha!
Really? I thank goodness the only thing like a bandsaw is its scrolling cousin-saw.
@@DrMackSplackem The bandsaw is my favorite tool in my shop.
Very versatile, and no earplugs needed.
I use it almost exclusively for resawing and rip-cuts though, and use a nice thick blade, so maybe that is why I don't have all the complaints that other people do.
@@StillLivinginthewoods It's an essential, no doubt about that.
I've had my router 30+ years and while it bit my fingertip once, {my fault} it's never hurt me yet. If used properly it's no more dangerous than any other power tool.
Never really been scared of the router table. More so when you hold a router by hand. What happens if something rips it out of your hand and you drop it? The bit still spins..
On most other hand tools you at least also then lose grip of the trigger that keeps the motor going. But a router has an on/off switch. Always found that a bit sketchy. Same with a dremmel or angle grinder. Dont understand how they cannot have a trigger instead. That maybe you could lock only if you decide.
If you prefer a router table that's good because you can do MUCH more routing with a router table than free hand
Routerophobia is a serious problem for woodworkers.
The router is the one tool that scares me witless. Especially the one I've "inherited" from my father in law which is difficult to adjust in the little table it's mounted in. I'm not sure I'd be quite so scared if I could afford a router lift.
Not sure how you can accidentally feed the wood the wrong direction and climb cut on a router table because everyone that I have had shows the feed direction right on the table.
Even absent that convenience, you can just pulse and watch the bit as it slows to a stop. You likely know the following information, but climb cuts can really save you at times. If you're working with highly figured material and the grain will be showing in the final product, I like to draw reverse arrows or put some thin tape where the grain changes direction throughout the routing path. I then leave those areas alone until I climb route them after the 1st, standard pass. This way, there's little chance of tear-out. Tiny bites are the ticket w/ this type of operation, of course.
In regard to a router TABLE, there are a few comments on here that appear to state that a cut is being made BETWEEN the bit and the fence??? That is a complete no-no and something I was told never to do and never even thought about doing it....why would anyone think this is how a router should be used????? If you're routering a channel in a board (so in essence part of the board is 'trapped' between the bit and the fence) this is NOT the same thing.
If I understand you correctly, that's totally fine and I do it all the time. You just make sure that the feed direction opposes the rotational cutting force of the bit (CCW on all bottom-mounted, table-installed routers I've ever come across). It's the best 'jobsite' method to make boards w/ true parallel opposing sides with just a straight piece of lumber as a fence.
You can even choose to break this rule in certain special cases, though note that tear-out isn't really avoided, it's just served up in the form of the router trying to tear the work piece out of your hands, rather than in the fibers themselves getting jack-splintered in place.
On the topic of personal safety equipment - a mask is almost always good, and absolutely necessary with some bits and materials to avoid inhaling fine, toxic dust
Yes, there were many things I didn't mention without making the video too long and people clicking away ... so more to follow in future episodes
I'm not afraid of the router. The damage I always manage to do to everything I touch with it is what I fear. Something unfortunate always happens
Come on, baby (don't fear the router)
Baby, take my hand (don't fear the router)
We'll be able to fly (don't fear the router)
Baby, I'm your man
Edit: I know we were all thinking it, hahahahha.
I was waiting to be shown operating the router table.
I’ve seen a 5hp zipper. I’ll keep my healthy fear/respect
I had no fear, now I have shorted third finger on right hand chopped by router in 6 parts.
WHAT HAPPENS IS THAT HI PITCHED SOUND IS SCARY, YOU HAVE TO GET USED TO IT.
If you can, but some people may never get comfortable with that sound, everyone is different.
Routers are scary. TCPIP rules are frightening. Configuring routers is a difficult task.
That's not fear that's loathing, and routers hold no candle to printers in that dept.
@@DrMackSplackem 😄
The horsepower claims are almost comical. A 3 1/4 hp router on 120 volts would draw 20.20 amps, on a 20 amp circuit. Yup, that'll work.
Yes I know, but most people understand hp and not amp ratings. What you say is correct, but remember too, "under load" those electric motor will temporarily draw more amp which does equate to a jump in hp, and that's what they take the liberty to rate them as
12+ minutes of talking to the viewer as if they were children.
10 minutes of saying the same thing over and over again! One minute would suffice. No time for actually explaining how to use a router.
Does she ever get into anything from here?
Anything for content. This is the 999,999th video about the very same subject. Your mother must be very proud.