And here I was tightening the hell out of my fep and wondering why it was getting damaged so quickly! Thanks so much I’m going to give this a shot later 🙂
I can't speak to every printer but I've had people in Facebook groups say that ranges from 320-340 worked for their Elegoo Saturn which has a larger area. That being said they're some gigantic resin printers out there and I have no idea how one would calibrate those
So for my Photon original, just like this one, I have not tuned it. Since replacing the factory FEP I've gotten mostly failed blobs stuck to my FEP. This is the one detail I have not considered, would a FEP too loose cause that? Cause I'm pretty sure I'm undertightening as I'm tightening about a half to full turn past hand tight. Basically enough that resin stays put without seeping under the rim.
Ah yeah sorry about that. If you tighten then the the frequency will indeed get higher. Its like strings on a musical instrument. The more you tighten the higher the sound gets.
I just got my resin 3d printer last week and all of my large prints have warping issues. Small prints come out fine. I checked my FEP and it is around 165 Hz. I tried to tighten it more but I couldn't. Could this be the reason my large prints are warping?
Yeah I would say that is very likely. If it's not tight enough the printer will have trouble popping layers with a large surface area off the FEP. If you can't tighten it any more you might want to try to replace the FEP
Don't do what I did... trying to do this from memory without rewatching the video, I tried to get it to the right frequency without attaching it to the vat first. Ended up stripping some of the frame screws and not getting it up to the right frequency still. Wish I had rewatched it. =) The video was really clear and helpful, after I followed the instructions correctly it worked great.
Both sides are the same but I've bought some that had a protective sheet on both sides that I needed to peel off first. If it seems thicker than the one you took off check to see if there are multiple stuck together or if there is a protective sheet to peel off
How did you come up with 333Hz? I am trying to research the proper tuning for my Saturn, but no one can seem to tell me what is proper. Also, what happens if the screws are too lose, will resin flow out? Why a bottle cap and not something consistent that everyone can print? So many questions and so few answers. :/
1. When I received my printer is was pre tuned almost exactly 333Hz out of the box. I have tried to go higher and lower but 333Hz is what has worked best for me and it is easy to remember 333. 2. The screws would have to be quite loose to allow the resin to flow out but it could happen. Most likely if the screws are too loose you're prints will not stick to the build plate. Likely you will see nothing on the buildplate when it finishes and be left with cured resin in the reservoir. 3. The bottlecap gives a good starting point so that the FEP is not too tight to begin screwing into the buildplate. You can use something else but the bottlecap is smooth on top and shouldn't scratch the FEP. It is just important to use something that allows the FEP frame to be inserted and begin to be tightened without tearing the FEP.
@@TheOhayoDev yeah how did you know 333hz was the correct number, and is 333hz the same on the entire surface on the fep, i have m3 max and you get different frenzy on the side of the vat than that on the middle
Dang. Had I known this technique, I would have measured the hertz when my Creality-LD002H was new. Now I have no idea what the original hertz was. Crap.
Sorry about that. The audio really would not be too helpful for the tuning. Unless I had a fantastic mic and the viewer had perfect pitch you would still be better off using a program or device to determine what frequency the FEP resonates at.
It's probably not a bad idea to relevel periodically but since you don't use the vat in the leveling process you shouldn't need to do it when you replace the FEP .
Everyone seems to be so certain of their pitch.. I'm using the same app and when I tap it repeatedly the blue line jumps up to around 400 but stays at 200 most of the time. Which one should I follow? I'd try to bring the 200hz up to 300+ but it already feels quite tight to me, and no one ever posts about how taught it should feel so it's hard to gauge. At 200/400hz When I push it gently with my finger there's about 1-3mm of slack. Should I continue tightening?
I usually do rapid tapping at a consistent strength and look at the average (usually ends up being close to the highest number) over the period of tapping
Trying to tighten the FEP on my Photon M3. I am finding that past 180Hz, tightening more actually makes the frequency lower. I tightened the heck out of it and I think the plastic frame is buckling.
@@TheOhayoDev the FEPs for the little M3 come glued in the frame, so I don't have any control over how tight they are when first framed. I had actually tightened it so much the screws started to come out the top of the vat and I had to buy a whole new vat, haha.
@@Promii yeah this guide might not work for your printer. I've never seen a printer where the FEP is permanently attracted to the vat. The FEP is meant to be a consumable part so it seems weird to have to replace the vat along with it
@@jared3562 they come in the frame, which you then screw in to the vat. I just had to replace mine because I broke it mistakenly. It seems to be only the smallest photon M3 that is like this. The M3 plus and max have the normal type of frame that accepts replacement films. I unfortunately was not aware of this when I bought the printer.
@Promii yeah the new printers are a little different with their replacements. You'll see on the original photon it has a metal frame and you can just replace the FEP. Some of the printers now have the FEP attached to the frame and you have to buy it all as one piece. If you're getting 180 Hz you might want to check the tool you're using to measure the sound. It would sound super low amzn.to/3QK4U2u With ones like these in the link they should be pretuned from the factory and you just screw it down until tight. I believe a new one of these tunes to about 310-320.
Without the screws actually being tightened whats to keep them from loosening with the vibration that comes from printing? Wouldn't be better to have a proper sized spacer under the FEP before, installing it into the vat so it would be all the way tightened to about 333Mhz?
You can print an exact size spacer for consistency but it is not the spacer that ensures the tightness and frequency of the FEP. It is like tightening a drum. You also should not have any vibration coming from your printer that is even close enough to loosen these screws Here is a spacer on thingiverse if you're interested. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3351933
Free to do what you want. A new vat is $30. The FEP is $3 and they are meant to be a replaceable part just like the LCD screen or the hot end nozzle of a filament printer
Everyone tells me to use an audio analyzer to check my fep no one will tell me how to read the audio analyzer to make any sense out of the gobbledygook on my screen when I try to use any of these apps
Come back every few months to see if someone says something or offers a better app. The rooms ambient noise measures between 36 to 400 Hz. When hitting with the eraser of a pencil: Sometimes it goes up to 1200, sometimes 800, sometimes 500. It doesn't give me time to see the numbers properly before moving and doesn't have a numerical record. How do I read these spikes? Which number is it? My printer's range is between 300 and 450.
And here I was tightening the hell out of my fep and wondering why it was getting damaged so quickly! Thanks so much I’m going to give this a shot later 🙂
Hopefully it helps out!
Thank you! I thought my replacement FEP Was too tight but it was actually about 80 Hz too loose. Let's hope this fixes my issue.
Let me know how it goes.
The hz check is great! Should the frequency be the same for every size of printer? Or would larger printers require different levels of tension?
I can't speak to every printer but I've had people in Facebook groups say that ranges from 320-340 worked for their Elegoo Saturn which has a larger area. That being said they're some gigantic resin printers out there and I have no idea how one would calibrate those
@@TheOhayoDev yeah facebook has so much accurate information aye
Exactly my question, and got no answer for this. However my logic says a bigger surface on the same tightness, must resonate at a lower frequency.
So for my Photon original, just like this one, I have not tuned it. Since replacing the factory FEP I've gotten mostly failed blobs stuck to my FEP. This is the one detail I have not considered, would a FEP too loose cause that? Cause I'm pretty sure I'm undertightening as I'm tightening about a half to full turn past hand tight. Basically enough that resin stays put without seeping under the rim.
Maybe mention what tightening and loosening it will do? If you tighten it more will the hz rise?
Ah yeah sorry about that. If you tighten then the the frequency will indeed get higher. Its like strings on a musical instrument. The more you tighten the higher the sound gets.
My fep wont get to 333, stuck around 175hz and i run out of turns on the bolts. Any ideas?
Harmonics you are looking at the wrong part of the graph
Basically you want to zoom in to the desired frequency and keep track of the peak dB when you hit the FEP using the the green marker
I just got my resin 3d printer last week and all of my large prints have warping issues. Small prints come out fine. I checked my FEP and it is around 165 Hz. I tried to tighten it more but I couldn't. Could this be the reason my large prints are warping?
Yeah I would say that is very likely. If it's not tight enough the printer will have trouble popping layers with a large surface area off the FEP. If you can't tighten it any more you might want to try to replace the FEP
Don't do what I did... trying to do this from memory without rewatching the video, I tried to get it to the right frequency without attaching it to the vat first. Ended up stripping some of the frame screws and not getting it up to the right frequency still. Wish I had rewatched it. =) The video was really clear and helpful, after I followed the instructions correctly it worked great.
Both sides of the fep are the same material or only one is coated?
Both sides are the same but I've bought some that had a protective sheet on both sides that I needed to peel off first. If it seems thicker than the one you took off check to see if there are multiple stuck together or if there is a protective sheet to peel off
How did you come up with 333Hz? I am trying to research the proper tuning for my Saturn, but no one can seem to tell me what is proper. Also, what happens if the screws are too lose, will resin flow out? Why a bottle cap and not something consistent that everyone can print?
So many questions and so few answers. :/
1. When I received my printer is was pre tuned almost exactly 333Hz out of the box. I have tried to go higher and lower but 333Hz is what has worked best for me and it is easy to remember 333.
2. The screws would have to be quite loose to allow the resin to flow out but it could happen. Most likely if the screws are too loose you're prints will not stick to the build plate. Likely you will see nothing on the buildplate when it finishes and be left with cured resin in the reservoir.
3. The bottlecap gives a good starting point so that the FEP is not too tight to begin screwing into the buildplate. You can use something else but the bottlecap is smooth on top and shouldn't scratch the FEP. It is just important to use something that allows the FEP frame to be inserted and begin to be tightened without tearing the FEP.
@@TheOhayoDev yeah how did you know 333hz was the correct number, and is 333hz the same on the entire surface on the fep, i have m3 max and you get different frenzy on the side of the vat than that on the middle
@@jimmyjames1807 have you been able to get it right on the m3 max. Thanks!!
Dang. Had I known this technique, I would have measured the hertz when my Creality-LD002H was new. Now I have no idea what the original hertz was. Crap.
Thank you for this
I hope it helped. I've also found it useful to check and re-tighten the FEP after I've printed for long enough
I've tried this app to tune my FEP for the elegoo Saturn S and just get print fails, the prints are not adhering to the supports
Sounds like you might need to increase your exposure time
Thanks! Is the bottle cap underneath the FEP? Or sitting on top? Thanks :)
Underneath
What apps can I use for testing the hz? I use iPhone
Don't know if any free ones for iOS. Most will cost money that platform
It’s a pity of the background music. I’m this case it is essential to be able to hear the sound of the tension of the FEP, as a viewer.
Sorry about that. The audio really would not be too helpful for the tuning. Unless I had a fantastic mic and the viewer had perfect pitch you would still be better off using a program or device to determine what frequency the FEP resonates at.
Works perfectly with spectroid. I did 333Hz. every other method failed for me.
Just curious I am new to this but shouldn't you re-level the build plate when you change the FEP
It's probably not a bad idea to relevel periodically but since you don't use the vat in the leveling process you shouldn't need to do it when you replace the FEP .
Yes
Everyone seems to be so certain of their pitch.. I'm using the same app and when I tap it repeatedly the blue line jumps up to around 400 but stays at 200 most of the time. Which one should I follow?
I'd try to bring the 200hz up to 300+ but it already feels quite tight to me, and no one ever posts about how taught it should feel so it's hard to gauge. At 200/400hz When I push it gently with my finger there's about 1-3mm of slack. Should I continue tightening?
I usually do rapid tapping at a consistent strength and look at the average (usually ends up being close to the highest number) over the period of tapping
Trying to tighten the FEP on my Photon M3. I am finding that past 180Hz, tightening more actually makes the frequency lower. I tightened the heck out of it and I think the plastic frame is buckling.
It sounds like maybe your FEP is thicker, still has the protective plastic on it or it was not tight enough when added to the frame
@@TheOhayoDev the FEPs for the little M3 come glued in the frame, so I don't have any control over how tight they are when first framed. I had actually tightened it so much the screws started to come out the top of the vat and I had to buy a whole new vat, haha.
@@Promii yeah this guide might not work for your printer. I've never seen a printer where the FEP is permanently attracted to the vat. The FEP is meant to be a consumable part so it seems weird to have to replace the vat along with it
@@jared3562 they come in the frame, which you then screw in to the vat. I just had to replace mine because I broke it mistakenly. It seems to be only the smallest photon M3 that is like this. The M3 plus and max have the normal type of frame that accepts replacement films. I unfortunately was not aware of this when I bought the printer.
@Promii yeah the new printers are a little different with their replacements. You'll see on the original photon it has a metal frame and you can just replace the FEP. Some of the printers now have the FEP attached to the frame and you have to buy it all as one piece.
If you're getting 180 Hz you might want to check the tool you're using to measure the sound. It would sound super low
amzn.to/3QK4U2u
With ones like these in the link they should be pretuned from the factory and you just screw it down until tight. I believe a new one of these tunes to about 310-320.
Without the screws actually being tightened whats to keep them from loosening with the vibration that comes from printing? Wouldn't be better to have a proper sized spacer under the FEP before, installing it into the vat so it would be all the way tightened to about 333Mhz?
You can print an exact size spacer for consistency but it is not the spacer that ensures the tightness and frequency of the FEP. It is like tightening a drum.
You also should not have any vibration coming from your printer that is even close enough to loosen these screws
Here is a spacer on thingiverse if you're interested.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3351933
really could of done without the music bed here, considering were working with sound...
The music stopped me hearing clearly, some of us find it distracting
...yeah nah, I'll just buy a new vat lol
Free to do what you want. A new vat is $30. The FEP is $3 and they are meant to be a replaceable part just like the LCD screen or the hot end nozzle of a filament printer
Everyone tells me to use an audio analyzer to check my fep no one will tell me how to read the audio analyzer to make any sense out of the gobbledygook on my screen when I try to use any of these apps
Come back every few months to see if someone says something or offers a better app.
The rooms ambient noise measures between 36 to 400 Hz.
When hitting with the eraser of a pencil: Sometimes it goes up to 1200, sometimes 800, sometimes 500. It doesn't give me time to see the numbers properly before moving and doesn't have a numerical record. How do I read these spikes? Which number is it?
My printer's range is between 300 and 450.