Dewalt DW716 Miter Saw Calibration & Zero Clearance Fence Construction
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- Опубликовано: 6 май 2018
- C&C Project Factory walks you through the Dewalt DW716 calibration of the vertical and horizontal angles and bevels as well as the construction of a zero clearance fence.
This is our first video!! Please let us know what we could do better in the future. (Like turning off auto focus on the camera ... we won't forget to do that next time for sure!)
0:12 - Horizontal Angle Adjustment
2:38 - Vertical Bevel Adjustment
3:29 - Horizontal Test Cut
4:34 - Vertical Test Cut
5:05 - Zero Clearance Fence Height
6:12 - ZCF Installation
7:24 - ZCF Cut
8:57 - 45 degree ZCF
9:23 - Closing 
Хобби
*Remember that this saw needs to have adjustments made to make 0 or 90 cuts accurately **MyBest.Tools** I had to use a right angle on the deck and blade and then adjust the bolt to get the correct reading. Once this is done, it works great.*
Thank you for this video! Within the first 3.5 minutes, my head-scratching questions were answered, because the manual didn't clearly explain for a newbie!👍
Gald we could help!
Thanks for the saw review
i bought this saw but was disappointed by how the adjustment works...the y axis is very difficult to get an accurate 0 degrees..but your tips are very helpful, thanks
I need to know how to calibrate the bevel mood n a Milwaukee 5569-20 12 inch miter saw
This test is only if you want to saw with a precision miter saw. (not for rough work).
Tips and Test:
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact / Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH.
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing (test is completed).
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
When a person is pulling down harder then normal on any miter saw handle because; the material is hard, cutting too fast for the size of material, the blade is worn, or any combination of those. That extra downward force applied by the operator can pull the blade out of 90° alignment. Or cause a curved cut that gets worse at the bottom of the large piece. , smells burnt, that's a good indication to check your saw settings and change the blade.
If the log is that hard, might want to do tough cut with a chain saw. Or get a proper metal saw if you're abusing this saw with a metal blade and pulling on the handle. 🤦🏻♂️
There is already torsion in the aluminum housing if you lower the saw without the motor running this has to do with the resistance of the spring that also keeps the saw high. How further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.
Great video. Keep it up. Maybe don't just play music over the whole video. Only over parts where there is no commentary.
Thanks! We haven't posted anything for a bit, but have a lot of video ready to edit with some fun projects. Definitely appreciate the feedback! It was our first time editing video so we will take your advice on the music to heart.
@04:21 you mention intentionally setting the saw at 1 degree, was it 1 degree left or right (of the zero) ?
We went left, but you can go either way.
@@ccprojectfactory Thanks, my question was just to avoid trial and error (making it worse before making it better), by comparing your results with mine !
In your demo, 1 degree left make the gap largest on the front, so 1 degree right should produce a gap on the back.
On my dw716, the 0 degree stop produce about a 1/3 degree-off cut, nothing a little sanding can't fix, but still so annoying.
Making any kind of box, 4 cuts that are all off 1/3 degree will end up causing a compounded 1.2 degree gap, which is... not perfect.
45 degree miters for 4 corners is 8 cuts times 1/3 off, almost 3 degrees off, this will not sand out so well.
Thanks again for your work and even more so for responding quickly about a 5 yr old video. 👍
So, let's say the oem fence is not square to the table. How would you adjust the secondary (zero clearance) fence to get a plumb/square reference point?
I've had a DWS779 for a few years and it's terrible. The oem fence is quite a bit out of square to the blade. if I place a straight edge across the fence, the outer edges are tight while the closer you get to the center the larger the gap. I would have to pull the out edges of the fence back and honestly there isn't a lot of room for play. FTR, I bought a straight edge that is accurate to .001" across the length.
The gap is large enough that I want to get rid of the saw and buy another. No matter how much I adjust the detents or the bevel angle it just doesn't want to make a square cut.
Definitely not an ideal situation, how far off is it? Im assuming you mean square vertically?
And if it's off, how to fix it?
Hi Tatyana, Could I get a bit more detail on your question? Which alignment is off?
DW716vsDW716XPS
weight?
The XPS is just a light. I don't think the weight would be very noticeable in a 44l b saw from the addition of the light. HTH
C&CProjectFactory
DW716XPS is 51 pounds
DW716 is 44 pounds
@@rosariomontes758 wow really? Is there something different between the 2 other than the light that I missed? That seems like a lot.
6:33 Countersink? Countersunk? I think it's countersunked'ed. lol
Not really practical for production trim work. It would be fine as a dedicated saw if you did a lot of face frames.
You don't ever cut 45s doing trim? If your saw it out or square even 1/2° and you cut two 45s on 5" base you'll end up with a decent gap. So I'd say calibrating your saw for trim work is pretty important. If you call yourself a trim carpenter and think that 1° doesn't matter your not a very good trim carpenter. Must be one of those "ahh fuck it let the painter caulk it" type of carpenters 😂
Please don’t make a video that claims to show how to calibrate something and the say, “Well, ours doesn’t need calibration.” So move it out of calibration and show how to fix it. That part of the video was really unhelpful.
Calibrating??? You didn't do anything. Maybe for logic sake you would have the saw out of square before the video started. You know so you could show us what to do
You lost me at “framing square”. You do it with test cuts, flip and check for gaps.
Around the 4:00 minute mark, we do indeed use test cuts to verify the settings. The framing square helps you get into a good position so you aren't playing guess and check.
It’s no use making a video to calibrate a saw and then say “bevel is perfect, no need to calibrate that - next!”. My bevel is off and so this video is useless to me.
Vertical bevel or horizontal?
I agree. Useless video. Basically shows a great setup needing no adjustment. A better video would show the saw out of alignment and how to adjust.