Adjusting your Miter Saw Fences
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- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- This is part 2 of the Miter Saw setup Series, Adjusting your Fences. In this video we will go over checking and straightening your lower fence and adding an auxiliary fence to get better work piece support and ensure the fence is square and straight. This is a very important step and really adds to the quality of work.
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So, I used to edit a magazine called TOOLS of the TRADE and I can tell you right now that after stumbling into your video while looking up how to twist a few bolts to adjust my miter saw fence, I’d be all over your to be a contributor. Not only is your tradecraft 15 out of 10, you’re an excellent communicator. Will definitely be stalking your channel. Thank you and nice work.
Thank you! That’s very kind of you to say!! I remember that magazine, that’s cool you worked on that. I hope to get back to making a lot more videos in the future!! Thanks for the support!!😁
@@thebuilditchannel8609 It doesn't surprise me in the least that you were tuned in that very small mag. JLC--The Journal of Light Construction--was also part of that party. - Dude, as a carpenter with basic grammar skills, working on that magazine was like being dumped into an Olympic team of geniuses in our field. - The editor in me has 1-million questions.
@@myfixituplife I was a big subscriber to JLC magazine!! Still have a lot of back issues. That would have been a fun job and I’m sure you learned a lot and got to see a lot of cool stuff!!
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Yessir. Sister pubs. I was in the DC office and JLC was in Vermont (where it started). - The whole endeavor was a paid master class in exposure to craftspeople like yourself spiced up with travel to various trade shows and manufacturer events that I *never* would have gone to in another line of work. Also, if we ever meet in person, I’m not showing you my miter saw. Feeler gaugec between straight edge and fence? You could probably get a phone book in there on mine. Also, side note: The flattening stone reminded me of an excellent book that flatness is the beginning of: The Perfectionists by Simon Winchester. Mind blowing. Keep hammering.
@@myfixituplife 😂
First time viewer here and I fully enjoyed your thorough explanation on how to correct a fouled-up M/S fence. Thank you. 👍🏽🤠 07/20/224
@@houndsmanone4563 Welcome, Thanks for watching, appreciate the comment!😁
Thanks for the precise eye opener , now I have beautiful cuts
This whole series is immensely helpful. Top notch instruction. Big thanx!
Thank You!! Glad it’s helpful!!😁
Great Video, very helpful.
GREAT STUFF. I was just looking at some aftermarket tall fences for the Dewalt MS, and YIKES! They do help with taller materials (particularly crown molding, with included stops) but these new pieces would not solve the issues you have fixed here.
As a possible add-on, I would recommend the addition of two adjustable horizontal blocks (hardwood/ aluminum) which serve as stops for crown molding. They would be fastened to sacrificial fence (toward the top) with set screws/ inserts into vertical slots.
I have this same DeWalt unit, and will work on them soon.
I put an aftermarket fence system on my DeWalt and I think I'm going to have to take it off after all because it's now out of wack vertically when cutting crown nested
THE BEST series on how to calibrate a miter saw!!! Thank you for your wonderful work.
Great video series, thank you so much!
Great video I appreciate your level of meticulousness
easy explanation of a common problem and great execution
Thank You!!😁👍🏻
I’ve done all of these steps before.........Except the GENIUS set screw trick, well done bossman, impressive as always 🙌🏽👊🏽
Thanks for this info. I've (accidently) dropped my Rigid 10" several times in the field and when I went to do this I knew it needed it but it was more than .010 out. WOW!
Very good video. People will make their cuts perfect with these video's. 👍
helped me zero in on why my cuts where not straight. turned out my fence was crooked the whole time. thank you for this video
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!!😁
Great series. I follow on IG but somehow never found you here. Thanks for the vids!
Absolutely amazing! The feeler guages you recommended arrive from Amazon today.
I still need a long straight edge and squares. Going with PEC. Found out about that brand on Rob Cosman's channel. 👍🏾🍻
@@thebuilditchannel8609 thanks will do. Found a NOS (New Old Stock) PEC 4 Piece 12" Combination Square on eBay. Got it for $54 after shipping. Probably going to add the engineering square and Woodpecker Straight edge to round off this month of purchases.
Great video
Well presented
Thanks!!
ur videos r amazing
Was really hoping for something I could do on site. I'm on a remote island trimming a house out and my fence to table is out of square 🤦🏻♂️ awesome video though thank you this perfect
Outstanding ! The time spent now will save me hours of frustration later. Thank you... Bob
Good stuff 😃
Thanks!!😁👍🏻
Thank you for the excellent ideas and excellent video! I am making one of these for miters. I would like to also make one (or two) for bevel cuts. There is a lot more interference from the fences, both stock and plywood, and I want to make it as tall as possible. I made the miter one about 6" tall. Any ideas? Thanks, Tim.
this is hilarious. sanding on a granite stone and measuring plywood with a feeler-gauge is the best i've seen in a long time... :-D :-D :-D
most toolmakers will love this.
.001 is an overkill, and would discourage a lot of folks from tweaking. That kind of precision is necessary if you are machining metal, but for fine woodworking you will never notice .005. Your sawblade marks are deeper than that.
Could you do a video squaring up that Metabo/Hitacho 10in in the background... I too have that saw and its far off on all cuts.
@building Guru, Got the saw base within .001" but can seem to get the fence set up very well. I tried an EZ-Speedy fence, hoping it would help flatten out the imperfections in the lower fence and the effects of the upper fence being tightened. I don't have a set up to "flatten" the lower fence. The EZ speedy fence was worse, it added more inconsistency in the overall fence. I'm tired of trying to shim the ez speedy fence. I want to try the plywood fence you show in this video. I have a few questions though. First can you use 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood or is 3/4" better? Second, instead of adding the threaded inserts on the back, can you just use a counter sink that goes through the fence? The set screws should really help square up the upper fence.
Thank you for the great series!
Any thoughts on how to keep "independent" lower fences co-planar, when they are not joined together as yours are?
@@thebuilditchannel8609 can u put that video up on RUclips please
@@thebuilditchannel8609 thank you sir, I acknowledge and totally appreciate your ocd(ness), there are some out there in the world that appreciate it very much like myself!
Great series. Just bought a very well used mastercraft (Canada) 10" saw, and both the base and fence are way out making it hard to cut straight. Im not looking forward to the amount of sanding I will be doing to square it up haha
Thank you!! Any work you do now pays off for the life of the saw!!
Thank you!! Any work you do now pays off for the life of the saw!!
Great video. Now here is something. Granite boxes found in Egypt. They were within 2 ten thousands of an inch flat . We don't have the machinery today to cut granite the way it was done tens of thousands of years ago.
It wasn't the Egyptians that built these megalithic structures. Architects today often reference these structures for their work. If they could obtain anywhere near the accuracy these structures were they would be very pleased indeed.
I need to get myself some filler guages and check my kapex. Over a period of time I bought different size engineers square and put a laybuy in a calibrated, certified micrometer. Great work.
Can you please tell us the brand of the pencil you use?
I had this issue with more then 1 DWS780. After getting the back sacrificial fences squared up, I realized the channel they run in to slide left/right wasn’t parallel, so as soon as I adjust one fence over an inch or so they’re no longer parallel.
How did you fix this?
@@CarolinaFarming it could t be fixed. I bit the bullet and bought a Kapex. Best move I ever made.
My new Bosch dual bevel glide miter saw has the same problem that you describe here. The upper fence kicks out when I tighten the set screw to lock it in place. I've been using a square to hold pieces perpendicular to the table for mitered cuts. It's a pain in the butt. The auxiliary fence that you've made here is a little more work than I'd hoped for but it looks like a good fix. Thanks for your help.
I'm a plasterer by trade. I remember years ago I bought these aluminium box straightedges and cut one length at 2,7 metre. I was screeding across a section. I checked with the straight edge and it was out. I filled in and screeded. I checked and it was out. So I filled and screeded and it was out. After the third time I thought what's going on here?
I looked at the straight edge and it was out. I called the supplier which they said have a tolerance of 3 mm within 3 metre. I replied I have bought in the past and they were fine. The rep stated they get their supplies from different companies in China. Anyway I changed my supplier to the ones that manufacture in Australia.
The Chinese have improved since then or has to smarten their act.
Where they stretch the steel or aluminium have to be true North and south otherwise the material could warp.
In your opinion what's the best 12" sliding compound miter saw on the market?
So there is a good use for OCD.
why do you use threaded inserts rather than just a screw?
They are plastic so no damage to the saw, they can be adjusted from the front and are recessed to not interfere.
What is the small metal thing you use to check if there's a gap called 🙏
Feeler gauge you can get them on Amazon
Hi, I'm having a heck of a time with a Bosch GCM12SD. I just got a new one and it seems the rotating table top is about .03 - .04 higher than the outside of the table and the straight edge rocks back and forth with the table being the highpoint (higher on the left side). As for the fence, I have the same .02 to .03 (yes NOT .002....) rock that is more on the left. The table and fence are also not square. I understand that a return would be the obvious thing to do, but this was worked out with their support (which was awesome) and we are trying to get me a flat saw. I am not sure if another saw will be an option, if it is not, what would you do in this instance, especially with the rotating part of the table top being dramatically higher than the outside?
The first one I bought (same saw) was 7 years ago and it's been the only item in my shop that I have never been able to get a square cut on. I even upgraded to a Forrest blade in case there was deflection on my Diablo (2 other blades were purchased of other brands). I replaced the arbors, built a zero clearance, and have calibrated it well over 50x. The new saw was supposed to be the fix.
Hello! If I understand you correctly your saying the wings of the saw are not in line with the rotating base of the saw. As long as the base is flat, which is the reference for the blade you are ok, just bring the wings down so in any position they don’t interfere with the base. The wings are there for support not a reference. The fences on some saws are way out and milled terribly, this is not a defect it’s the way the saw is made in most cases. I suggest making a plywood fence over the existing fence and squaring that to the table base. Hope this helps!
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Thanks for the reply, I wasn't sure as the video was 3 years old! It's actually the other way around, the rotating base sits about .02 to .03 "above" the wings.
@@zachnope1262 ok, that’s not an issue!
great series! I just purchased a lightly used kapex REB and performed all the tests you demonstrated. The saw failed miserably in terms of being perfectly flat and square. . I am hesitant to perform these procedures on such an expensive thoughts. Any comments on doing this to a kapex?
I also own a Kapex and have done all the adjustments. The Kapex is a decent saw but for the money it should be better!!
can you just come over to my garage and help me do it lol
Where would one go to have a professional do this for someone?
You could probably take it to a machine shop but I would guess that might cost more than the saw!
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Ah, okay thank you.
If you are skilled enough to do woodworking, you have the skill and tools necessary to get your saw within .003--005"", which is enough for fine woodworking. My table and base were out .015", and my fence out .022"!! I rough sanded the base with 60 grit, using a cheap, square vibrating palm sander. I finished by hand sanding with the edge of a 2x4 that I flattened within .002" using sandpaper stuck to my jointer table. Everything was within .001-.003". You don't need a professional or expensive tools (or .001"). Just patience.
My cuts are garbage. Trying to learn how to be better, thanks.
Thanks for watching!! Check out this video as well it might help!! ruclips.net/video/LFKXlKuHXYA/видео.html
In your experience, have you found a miter saw which comes closest to being properly set up out of the box? I was thinking of upgrading to the Festool Kapex, but I hate the thought of spending $1,500 only to still have to go through this somewhat long and pains-taking exercise.
Building Guru I’ve never seen a Kapex yet hat needed this kind of calibration. At least not in the actual base and fence. Wouldn’t the powder coating make that impossible to do without destroying it?
I gave up on miter saws. Theyre just not accurate enough, and they need constant calibration. Even the overpriced Festool has issues with squareness and side to side hinge wobble.
Bruh
It would be a nice if the tool manufacturers made decent tools and did this sort of work in the factory rather than pumping out tools that are 'close enough' just let the customer deal with it.
It would be nice. But it is good enough for 99% of customers, and I'd rather dial it in myself than pay the high prices that sort of precision costs.
The problem is metal expands, contracts and twists in different climates just like wood. (Not as bad). So if it’s being shipped from China or somewhere far, it’s going to have experienced these conditions. But Festool is the only one that does ship their stuff fully calibrated.
I pretty sure I would commit suicide half way through this process if I ever attempted it. Reminds me of The Ring.