Dodge 6.7 Cummins Turbo Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2024
- This video highlights a few important tips to remember when replacing a turbocharger on a Dodge 6.7 Cummins engine. To learn more about our line of both 100% new and quality-remanufactured turbochargers, visit www.StandardTur....
Here's what you need to know for the job:
Level of difficulty: INTERMEDIATE
Approximate installation time: 4 HOUR
Tools needed: 10mm, 13mm sockets, 3/8" ratchet, 13mm open end wrench, pliers, pick
Additional parts: Engine coolant, air filter, breather filter, engine oil
Vehicle used: 2008 Dodge Ram 2500
Motorist: If this job is beyond your skill level, visit your automotive service professional.This video is for general information purposes only. The provider makes no representations or warranties as to the information contained in this video or its usage, completeness, quality or accuracy. Any use of such information is at the user's sole risk, and in no event shall the provider be liable for any consequential, incidental, special, punitive or direct or indirect damages arising from such use.
Visit us at: www.StandardBra...
I really appreciate RUclipsrs doing "How To" videos.
BUT they shouldn't leave out the most difficult part of the job (the oil return and coolant return lines).
I had the turbo ready to pull in 1.5 hours, and then spent another 1.5 hours disconnecting the oil return line.
Beware as there was no mention of them in this video.
Thanks for the feedback, BackstromCS. You're correct, it is the trickiest part of the job. But there's no room to get a camera in there along with the wrench, which is why we couldn't get it in the shot. Our apologies for not making it clearer.
I agree! I assumed that getting the four rusted exhaust manifold nuts will be the toughest part of the job! Nope: the oil return and coolant line is a pain!
I learned the hard way about the oil return line. After three days of struggle, I realized that you could just put in studs instead of the bolts. Makes it so much easier. Make sure to use lock washers or at least some type of locktite.
I put studs in the oil return line on the turbo, I wished I would have done the studs before I put the turbo in, I found it impossible to use the factory bolts, I found it very frustrating to line up the oil line housing and the gasket and the bolt holes with the bolts, the oil return line is pretty stiff and didn't want to handle it too much as I don't have the time or desire to replace it, putting studs in made it a walk in the park, with the studs in the gasket slips on and stays in perfect position then I could use two hands to gently place the oil line on the studs then a couple of self locking nuts, I am a first timer at a turbo change, for some reason I hope this really helps other first timers, please let me know if this helps you out:) also I can guarantee myself that line is on perfect and wont leak and the new gasket I had to buy twice is in perfect shape
after three days of struggle, I did the exact same thing. Works perfect.
How did you get the turbo to drop off the studs having clearance issues?
I think the turbo died due to the EGR still being on the truck. lol
on the exhaust manifold there is a nut that is in the back connected to the turbo. its the only one you cant see unless you look through the fender well. How did you remove it? I've tried every wrench i could think of.
for me, i remove the front nut and use an angled 15mm wrench and hope for a good enough bite. also, there is some sort of weird shim like thing on the last two exhaust manifold bolts that i remove and discard so i can get a better bite on that back nut.
Two questions. 1) What is the consensus on draining the cooling system? Complete drain at radiator, or just remove the coolant line from top of the turbo housing? 2) Do the coolant and oil entrance lines swivel as you loosen them? I have been hitting them with penetrate oil and some heat, but they both want to twist the lines instead of breaking loose. Thanks!
1) It's best and cleanest to drain the whole system. That being said, I typically pinch off the feed hose and remove it without draining the rest of the system. 2) No, the lines don't twist. You will probably have to replace them.
Great informative video. One quick question, for the video creator or anyone who has experience with this issue: How frequently do the Variable Geometry Turbo's fail on the 6.7l Cummins? I hear from some in the performance community that these turbo's are highly unreliable and that 6.7l owners are better off getting a different type of turbo. However, I'm sure a lot of those people are into tuning and are pushing the limits of their vehicle (including the turbo). How long will a VGT turbo last on a stock 6.7l Cummins? Does the exhaust brake need to be left on to increase longevity?
Kal P my turbo is original and I have 423k miles and I just now thinking of changing my out. Yes I use exhaust brake everyday
How many miles did this truck have on it?
First of all, thanks for the very professional video! I am going to attempt this tomorrow. I was wondering if there are any torque specs I need to know? I tried looking it up for the HE300VG but no luck. Please advise!
that is a very good video, very helpful thank you.
Thank you for the feedback Buddy.
How often does the new turbo and actuator need to be calibrated tot he truck? I just swapped a pair from another truck that were never separated and I’m having issues. Thanks.
Is there any need to prime the turbo before installation? Like some turbo's whistle when in operation. Does Dodge turbo whistle? I know mine is bad so don't really know how it should sound when operating properly. The code I get is P2579. I changed the speed sensor but no change in the "check engine" status.
how the hell do you get the coolant line and oil line off the bottom of the turbo?
It is tricky, but I got it from underneath the truck using a long extension and swivel sockets. Getting it off is one thing, but getting it back on with the gasket is another challenge. Best wishes!
Engineers are not paid to design accessibility into these machines. . Sigh. .
The heat shield can be removed by taking the motor mount loose and you have all the room in the world
very nice quality video! Thank you
Thanks for the great feedback!
why not try just cleaning the soot out before changing to new turbo?
You could rebuild it but it would need to have the actuator re-calibrated and some kits are not easy to get. You also have to check for any play in the turbine shaft and replace bearings and many seals inside of it. Is not that easy but is a cheap option.
I have a 2013 Dodge Ram 6.7 Cummings few days ago rpm stars to go up and down when I put the reverse or forward but on Park doesn’t do it runs good but don’t like how it feels now do you what sensor I have to replace?
Juan Guerrero whats a Cummings?
Wow that's pretty sad it's already carboned up.
All thanks to the damn EGR system and CCV line filling up with soot and dirty oil.