Another informative video. You are getting closer to the end of the project and can't wait to see it completed. You have really done a good job and I'm still amazed at how you have approached every detail of the entire project. Keep the videos coming. How about them Bulldogs!!!
If I'm going to do this stuff.... I'm going to learn what it is all about! I'm loving this stuff! Thanks for the accolade. And.... How 'bout them Dawgs! What a run! Cheers to you Richard!
Thumbs up! Ok, you made a lil nervous when hammering the cap in as your thumb was so close to the hammer! LOL I was hoping you wouldn't hit your thumb and you didn't LOL
On those spindle bearings you may want to push them in instead of tapping with hammer. The tapping can close the cage down on the needles causing them to bind. They make a special driver for them with a shoulder made for the cage. I have a John Deere book that shows them but I don't have them yet. Slow gentle pushing with a vise or clamp is the next best thing.
Good advise. They have a significant interference fit. The cages are pretty stout and the tool that I have seen didn't appear to reduce any amount of stress on the cage. I could be wrong. Thanks!
Great videos! I have learned a lot from all your videos. I do have a question about the axle shafts. Where did you purchase your u-joints for the axles shafts. Keep up the the great videos.
Vice, Hammer, Arbor Press, 12 Ton Hydraulic Press…. I have them all. They all would work fine. Regardless of which one I used, there are always other options. I believe they all get you to that same result. Glad to hear you have a plan.
I was just thinking about how it's been a bit since you put a video out while I was working down at my shop today. Why not just press the u joint caps on with that vise you were using as an anvil..?
Hi, very much enjoyed watching this very detailed process,would like to ask you for info ref the ball joint split sleeve removal tool you used. l am about to replace ball joints 4 off on my Jeep Wrangler YJ 1995, having this tool would be a must to do this job ref the torque loading etc. Please can you advise do you have a manufacturer part number or link to this tool. any help would be most appreciated
Yeah... To do it correctly, you really need this tool. Here is a link: amzn.to/3XGHsWu I'm not one to obtain all of the crazy special tools, but this one is needed to get it right. Not too expensive. Have fun with your build! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Hi Mike,thank you for the most kind update info and help with this required tool.If l do a job l believe in doing it right first time.Hate having to do a job twice out of ill advised shortcuts.
Not on this axle. The split sleeve is threaded on the outside and the inside tapper is concentric with the threads. So as it gets threaded it (50 ftlbs) it is inserting straight down and just engaging the taper. It would not affect camber. I believe the camber is fixed on this axle. Mike
@@goodkill1 Freezing items certainly make them easier to install, but not required. Whether you do it or not is none of my business. For aligning the cotter pin, I followed the service manual. My results are no different than your approach. No overtightening would occur with my process. Thanks for watching.
Another informative video. You are getting closer to the end of the project and can't wait to see it completed. You have really done a good job and I'm still amazed at how you have approached every detail of the entire project. Keep the videos coming. How about them Bulldogs!!!
If I'm going to do this stuff.... I'm going to learn what it is all about! I'm loving this stuff! Thanks for the accolade. And.... How 'bout them Dawgs! What a run! Cheers to you Richard!
Thumbs up! Ok, you made a lil nervous when hammering the cap in as your thumb was so close to the hammer! LOL I was hoping you wouldn't hit your thumb and you didn't LOL
Thank you Billy. Cheers to you Sir. Mike
Looking good! 👍🏻
Thank you Sir. Need to get this one wrapped up!
On those spindle bearings you may want to push them in instead of tapping with hammer. The tapping can close the cage down on the needles causing them to bind. They make a special driver for them with a shoulder made for the cage. I have a John Deere book that shows them but I don't have them yet. Slow gentle pushing with a vise or clamp is the next best thing.
Good advise. They have a significant interference fit. The cages are pretty stout and the tool that I have seen didn't appear to reduce any amount of stress on the cage. I could be wrong. Thanks!
Nice job! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you Jim as always.... Cheers!
Great videos! I have learned a lot from all your videos. I do have a question about the axle shafts. Where did you purchase your u-joints for the axles shafts. Keep up the the great videos.
I found mine on Amazon. amzn.to/3NnLW1U
Thank you for the help. Take care @@UCanDoIt2Mike
Thank you share clip
You are more than welcome. Thanks for watching and have fun with all of your projects! Mike
I would have used the vise to squeeze them in rather than hammer on them in. A C-clamp works great also. Then again, That's just me. LOL
Vice, Hammer, Arbor Press, 12 Ton Hydraulic Press…. I have them all. They all would work fine. Regardless of which one I used, there are always other options. I believe they all get you to that same result. Glad to hear you have a plan.
Hi Mike. What brand is the heavy duty tie rod and drag link? Thats a good looking replacement. I see Rugged Ridge makes them.
That is the one I used. For mine, it was the Rugged Ridge 18050.80. It was about $305. Cheers. Mike.
I was just thinking about how it's been a bit since you put a video out while I was working down at my shop today.
Why not just press the u joint caps on with that vise you were using as an anvil..?
I actually tried that it it didn’t budge the caps. I have a large hydraulic press as well that I could have used, by the hammer had its hand raised.
Hi, can you remember the degrees incline you used from the pumpkin to the Dana 300 output shaft...more than 12°?
To be honest, I am not there yet. Working on my Tub and then will be assembling the drivetrain.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike cool, no worries 👍
Hi, very much enjoyed watching this very detailed process,would like to ask you for info ref the ball joint split sleeve removal tool you used.
l am about to replace ball joints 4 off on my Jeep Wrangler YJ 1995, having this tool would be a must to do this job ref the torque loading etc.
Please can you advise do you have a manufacturer part number or link to this tool.
any help would be most appreciated
Yeah... To do it correctly, you really need this tool. Here is a link: amzn.to/3XGHsWu
I'm not one to obtain all of the crazy special tools, but this one is needed to get it right. Not too expensive. Have fun with your build! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Hi Mike,thank you for the most kind update info and help with this required tool.If l do a job l believe in doing it right first time.Hate having to do a job twice out of ill advised shortcuts.
✌️💪👍👌
Thanks and love the feedback! Mike
So isn't the split sleeve offset to one side to adjust the camber
Not on this axle. The split sleeve is threaded on the outside and the inside tapper is concentric with the threads. So as it gets threaded it (50 ftlbs) it is inserting straight down and just engaging the taper. It would not affect camber. I believe the camber is fixed on this axle. Mike
You don't leave them in the freezer overnight?
Also you should be using a broker bar to align the cotter pin after torquing, over-torquing could degrade the accuracy.
@@goodkill1 Freezing items certainly make them easier to install, but not required. Whether you do it or not is none of my business. For aligning the cotter pin, I followed the service manual. My results are no different than your approach. No overtightening would occur with my process. Thanks for watching.