Hi everyone thanks for tuning in on this build, here is a list of chapters in the video. It’s a long one so get some popcorn and a seat on the couch and enjoy 🍻 Video Highlights: 0:24 UCA Bushing R & R 1:59 Hub & Axle Shaft Removal 2:58 Differential Removal 5:01 Vent Tube Modification 7:21 Differential Cleaning & Inspection 8:27 Axle Shaft Rebuild 9:54 Differential Installation 12:13 Axle Shaft & Hub Installation 15:11 Permanent CAD Modification 18:43 Weld on LCA skids 19:41 Preparation & paint Also I just learned that the end of the video something happened to the audio! But I think you’ll get it 😅
Yeah I will eventually in the rear, for the front if I go locker I want arb or e locker, not sure if I want to spend a lot on the d30 just yet. And that clicking noise would just bother me lol Thanks for watching 🍻
I’ve got an 88 with the axle disconnect but I installed a straight chromoly axle shaft a few years ago. This weekend I’m installing a manual locking hub kits in it. Mine also has an E- locker in the front. I wish there was a truss kit available for this style axle.
Nice those axles are pretty solid the UCA mount definitely is. It wouldn’t be hard to make your own truss or modify one for your needs. I’ll be doing one on the tj soon and possibly locking hubs will see . This jeep was a budget build so the best we could do at the moment was LCA skids. Now that the jeep has a new owner we may revisit that axle. That e locker will definitely make a difference too. Sweet jeep. 🍻
Piece by piece its slowly coming together, hoping to get to the lift by next week. It’s time to take a break and do some family camping. Thanks for watching 🍻
Not trying to hate as i respect anyone turning wrenches to keep these older vehicles alive, however i wanted to put my 2c out there for people to see. Jeep stopped using the CAD front axle in the early 90s for the XJ , not 95. They added larger u-joints to them in 95 or 96 and they remained unchanged until 2000 when they went to a low pinion dana 30 that the TJ used. The 96-99 xj front axle is the best option on a budget. You would have been far better off getting one of those axles instead for the amount of time and money you put into this one. The upper control arm bracket may look stronger on the CAD axle but its a trade off since the axle tube is a lot weaker than the non CAD axles. The 3.54 axle ratio you are referring to is technically 3.545 and commonly called the 3.55 ratio. 3.54 and 3.55 ratios are the same ratio and they are interchangeable. They are buy no means rare, hard to come by, or valuable at all. They are the most common gear ratio used in the XJ. Otherwise good work with everything, you appeared to take your time and do everything correctly, i just would have started with a slightly better platform.
Absolutely, Now keep in mind that even though this is a cad axle the same basic mechanical and restoration concepts carry over to the updated Dana 30s. I do agree with what you are saying and no where in this video am I talking up this axle over another. The 96-99 hp 30 is a better platform with no doubt and They did continue to use cad on the dodge rams up until 2001. originally the plan here was to build up an updated HP Dana 30, then something happened where the original owner wanted the jeep back and said he was willing to pay for the project to continue up to a certain point with some requests. I sold the jeep back to the OGs. So I agreed keep the jeep in stock form as much as possible. I ran this axle by them as it had the exact 3:55 gears I needed to Match the rear axle and it was dirt cheap the guy threw in a bunch of other parts that I ended up using on the interior. So now you know sometime in the middle of the 87 xj restoration the Jeep was no longer mine and I was building it for someone els on someone else’s budget. Not mine. Actually he didn’t even want me to replace that axle, but there was no content in that for me. So we agreed to continue with this setup.
You seem to have some knowledge so I’m going to ask for your opinion/advice: I bought an XJ axle exactly like this one in this video for my 2003 TJ. I’m doing a rear stretch and triangulated rear suspension and I’m going to do the WJ high steering knuckles and brakes. I’m almost there, with all of my parts. Before I go on, let me say: I am an experienced fabricator/welder. I have my own welding shop and many tools/machines. I am NOT a mechanic, and I have never done suspension work before. For that axle (4:10 gears) I already welded a C gusset “kit” onto the Cs. I built my own truss to work around that big hunk of iron CAD housing. I have to relocate my track bar bracket to go up high, (I have the parts, but haven’t welded it on yet) and I have to relocate my sway bar arm brackets. Thats the tricky part. So, my question is this: I am thinking of cutting off that big iron housing and getting some 2” diameter DOM tube and connect the 2 parts of the axle like that. And then just weld on a new upper control arm bracket. I know I should have started this project with a non-CAD D-30, but I didn’t. If I found one for relatively cheap, with the same gears, I would probably just start from scratch. But Idk how easy it will be for me to find that axle. I don’t have a problem eating the cost of the C gusset kit I bought (i got the fancier one that actually envelops the entire outer part of the C, not just the little side plates). But, if it’s not a big deal to just eliminate this CAD housing, I will just do that. Cutting off that housing is easy. 15-20 minutes and I’ll have it off. I can get the 2” DOM to put an outer sleeve on to connect the 2 axle tubes, and then make a new truss to go all the way across the top. Do you see any complications arising from this? Have you ever heard of anybody doing this? Any advice or anything g I may be overlooking? Thanx
@@zenlandzipline it’s doable, you can drill out plug holes in the cast steel and pull out the passenger side tube, but it’s a press fit with silicone. Good time to sleeve, and clock the inner Cs based on lift height. (No need under 4” lift on a TJ) The outside diameter on my 95, hp30 is Close to 2.5 O.D. So I’d just make sure you have the correct diameter tubing. I’ve seen people cut the Cs completely off, sleeve and weld. So if beveled and filled properly should be just as strong especially with the truss and sleeves. But that risk would be on you if driving on the highway. Good luck 👍🏼 🍻
Do you have a list of all parts and their costs? I'm curious how much it would cost if all the welding was farmed out too. My fab skills are not up to this level.
Yes the list is in the description box. I’m not sure how much a new axle cost but everything here is about 600 dollars or less and no labor cost added. This is a early dana 30 so the newer ones could be less to restore.
@@markvance713 I don’t have an exact time because I film. The Cs can be cut off and replaced. I’ve never seen one straightened. If you had an axle worth doing that to it can be done. C gussets is probably something I should have done but the jeep isn’t going to be rock bounced. 🍻
Something I never considered is that these disconnecting 30s have a much stronger passenger upper control arm mount. Interesting. Edit: I don't think the change was in 95 I think it was between 91 and 92. Also, in the future you can swap to a normal passenger side 1 piece shaft (go ABS or or 96.5/97+ for bigger joints) for added strength as the collar connection is a weak point.
I have the other axle shafts and parts from the old axle I can use if anything breaks 🤞 Id probably just start over with a 97+ Dana 30 or just go 44 if I can get my hands on one. Hard to come by around here. But yes the upper bracket is considerably stronger by the looks of it . Definitely noticeable. 🍻
Hi everyone thanks for tuning in on this build, here is a list of chapters in the video. It’s a long one so get some popcorn and a seat on the couch and enjoy 🍻
Video Highlights:
0:24 UCA Bushing R & R
1:59 Hub & Axle Shaft Removal
2:58 Differential Removal
5:01 Vent Tube Modification
7:21 Differential Cleaning & Inspection
8:27 Axle Shaft Rebuild
9:54 Differential Installation
12:13 Axle Shaft & Hub Installation
15:11 Permanent CAD Modification
18:43 Weld on LCA skids
19:41 Preparation & paint
Also I just learned that the end of the video something happened to the audio! But I think you’ll get it 😅
Ha! Who needs a cold chisel when you have railroad spikes. I have a bunch laying around, good idea 👍
Thank you 🍻
Great job. Very educational, thank you.
I'm surprised you didn't do a lunch box while you had everything out. Really good video sir!
Yeah I will eventually in the rear, for the front if I go locker I want arb or e locker, not sure if I want to spend a lot on the d30 just yet. And that clicking noise would just bother me lol Thanks for watching 🍻
I’ve got an 88 with the axle disconnect but I installed a straight chromoly axle shaft a few years ago. This weekend I’m installing a manual locking hub kits in it. Mine also has an E- locker in the front. I wish there was a truss kit available for this style axle.
Nice those axles are pretty solid the UCA mount definitely is. It wouldn’t be hard to make your own truss or modify one for your needs. I’ll be doing one on the tj soon and possibly locking hubs will see . This jeep was a budget build so the best we could do at the moment was LCA skids. Now that the jeep has a new owner we may revisit that axle. That e locker will definitely make a difference too. Sweet jeep. 🍻
Cool video looking forward to see how this build is going to turn out 👍👍👍
Piece by piece its slowly coming together, hoping to get to the lift by next week. It’s time to take a break and do some family camping. Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD warm weather is finally here definitely time for camping 🏕
Excellent job 👍👍👌
Thanks super excited to get it under the Cherokee, but I’m taking a break after this , we are overdue for some family camping. 🍻
I seeing your video from Pakistan and I like your video
what vehiucle is this from? thats one hell of a beefy control arm mount. on my xj its flimsy steel that bends when you try to do anything to it
well done sir!
Thanks buddy, time to take a break and get back to the tjs 😅 🍻
Clean!
Not trying to hate as i respect anyone turning wrenches to keep these older vehicles alive, however i wanted to put my 2c out there for people to see. Jeep stopped using the CAD front axle in the early 90s for the XJ , not 95. They added larger u-joints to them in 95 or 96 and they remained unchanged until 2000 when they went to a low pinion dana 30 that the TJ used. The 96-99 xj front axle is the best option on a budget. You would have been far better off getting one of those axles instead for the amount of time and money you put into this one. The upper control arm bracket may look stronger on the CAD axle but its a trade off since the axle tube is a lot weaker than the non CAD axles. The 3.54 axle ratio you are referring to is technically 3.545 and commonly called the 3.55 ratio. 3.54 and 3.55 ratios are the same ratio and they are interchangeable. They are buy no means rare, hard to come by, or valuable at all. They are the most common gear ratio used in the XJ. Otherwise good work with everything, you appeared to take your time and do everything correctly, i just would have started with a slightly better platform.
Absolutely, Now keep in mind that even though this is a cad axle the same basic mechanical and restoration concepts carry over to the updated Dana 30s. I do agree with what you are saying and no where in this video am I talking up this axle over another. The 96-99 hp 30 is a better platform with no doubt and They did continue to use cad on the dodge rams up until 2001. originally the plan here was to build up an updated HP Dana 30, then something happened where the original owner wanted the jeep back and said he was willing to pay for the project to continue up to a certain point with some requests. I sold the jeep back to the OGs. So I agreed keep the jeep in stock form as much as possible. I ran this axle by them as it had the exact 3:55 gears I needed to Match the rear axle and it was dirt cheap the guy threw in a bunch of other parts that I ended up using on the interior. So now you know sometime in the middle of the 87 xj restoration the Jeep was no longer mine and I was building it for someone els on someone else’s budget. Not mine. Actually he didn’t even want me to replace that axle, but there was no content in that for me. So we agreed to continue with this setup.
@@ATEMOFFROAD I subscribed.
@@rhythm618 thanks 🙏
You seem to have some knowledge so I’m going to ask for your opinion/advice: I bought an XJ axle exactly like this one in this video for my 2003 TJ. I’m doing a rear stretch and triangulated rear suspension and I’m going to do the WJ high steering knuckles and brakes. I’m almost there, with all of my parts. Before I go on, let me say: I am an experienced fabricator/welder. I have my own welding shop and many tools/machines. I am NOT a mechanic, and I have never done suspension work before.
For that axle (4:10 gears) I already welded a C gusset “kit” onto the Cs. I built my own truss to work around that big hunk of iron CAD housing. I have to relocate my track bar bracket to go up high, (I have the parts, but haven’t welded it on yet) and I have to relocate my sway bar arm brackets. Thats the tricky part.
So, my question is this: I am thinking of cutting off that big iron housing and getting some 2” diameter DOM tube and connect the 2 parts of the axle like that. And then just weld on a new upper control arm bracket. I know I should have started this project with a non-CAD D-30, but I didn’t. If I found one for relatively cheap, with the same gears, I would probably just start from scratch. But Idk how easy it will be for me to find that axle. I don’t have a problem eating the cost of the C gusset kit I bought (i got the fancier one that actually envelops the entire outer part of the C, not just the little side plates). But, if it’s not a big deal to just eliminate this CAD housing, I will just do that.
Cutting off that housing is easy. 15-20 minutes and I’ll have it off. I can get the 2” DOM to put an outer sleeve on to connect the 2 axle tubes, and then make a new truss to go all the way across the top.
Do you see any complications arising from this? Have you ever heard of anybody doing this?
Any advice or anything g I may be overlooking?
Thanx
@@zenlandzipline it’s doable, you can drill out plug holes in the cast steel and pull out the passenger side tube, but it’s a press fit with silicone. Good time to sleeve, and clock the inner Cs based on lift height. (No need under 4” lift on a TJ) The outside diameter on my 95, hp30 is Close to 2.5 O.D. So I’d just make sure you have the correct diameter tubing. I’ve seen people cut the Cs completely off, sleeve and weld. So if beveled and filled properly should be just as strong especially with the truss and sleeves. But that risk would be on you if driving on the highway. Good luck 👍🏼 🍻
nice job! how many hours the whole restaration took?
Probably on and off 8 hours
Do you have a list of all parts and their costs? I'm curious how much it would cost if all the welding was farmed out too. My fab skills are not up to this level.
Yes the list is in the description box. I’m not sure how much a new axle cost but everything here is about 600 dollars or less and no labor cost added. This is a early dana 30 so the newer ones could be less to restore.
@@ATEMOFFROAD Do you have any idea of the cost or hours to do these additions? If you already have a bent "C" can it be straightened?
@@markvance713 I don’t have an exact time because I film. The Cs can be cut off and replaced. I’ve never seen one straightened. If you had an axle worth doing that to it can be done. C gussets is probably something I should have done but the jeep isn’t going to be rock bounced. 🍻
👍🤝
I saved this video for future
Thanks for watching 🍻
Something I never considered is that these disconnecting 30s have a much stronger passenger upper control arm mount. Interesting.
Edit: I don't think the change was in 95 I think it was between 91 and 92. Also, in the future you can swap to a normal passenger side 1 piece shaft (go ABS or or 96.5/97+ for bigger joints) for added strength as the collar connection is a weak point.
I have the other axle shafts and parts from the old axle I can use if anything breaks 🤞 Id probably just start over with a 97+ Dana 30 or just go 44 if I can get my hands on one. Hard to come by around here. But yes the upper bracket is considerably stronger by the looks of it . Definitely noticeable. 🍻
دوت گرم
U need to move to AZ dude so that u can help me fix my Jeep 😂😂 came out super clean 👍🏽💪🏽
And I’d help you any way I could, would be awesome to go to AZ buddy. 🍻
👍
Thanks for watching 🍻
SawzaLL
I just tossed one these at the junkyard
The gears alone are worth 100 dollars lol 3:54s getting harder to come by. 😅
I bought a brand new Dana HD 44 didn't have any more need for it
And upgraded to 4.88 gears, Adams shafts, Air Lockers
Stopped watching @0:30 to say thx for the timeline. Time waster video creators TAKE NOTE!
Thanks for watching 🍻