CJ Frame Restoration | Jeep CJ7 | Project Rowdy Ep052
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- In this video, I completely restore the Frame for my CJ7 build, Project Rowdy. This includes: Power washing inside and out, replacing rear cross section, rust repair, captured nut repair, sand blasting, Chasis Saver rust treatment, and a Rust-oleum Top coat.
I have assembled a complete list of parts and many of the tools that I used during this rebuild in an Amazon Affiliate Store page which can be found at the following link: www.amazon.com/shop/influence...
All of this is being done to prepare this axle to be reinstalled in my 1979 Jeep CJ7 which is slated to for an LS LM7 5.3L Engine swap.
Project Rowdy is a restoration on a 1979 Jeep CJ7 V8 Golden Eagle.
Project Rowdy Playlist: ruclips.net/user/playlist?list...
UCanDoIt2 Contact: UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com
JeepForum Thread: www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/pr...
Facebook Page: / projectrowdy
Music
Intro: Alex Skrindo (Alive)
Other: Kontinuum (Aware)
Other: Cold Sun - Del
00:00 Intro
01:36 Rear Crossmember removal
05:06 Pressure wash inside the frame
08:42 Rust Repair - Fabricate, Weld, Finish metal patch
17:18 Remove broken bolts
21:36 Eastwood Internal Frame Coating
25:03 Frame paint and rust removal
27:10 Sandblasting
31:16 Chassis Saver Painting
36:02 Rust-Oleum Top coat Painting
#jeep #jeepcj #lsswap #lsswaptheworld #lsswapc10 #lsswapc10 
Хобби
Great video Mike! Good to see you back on the Air!!
Many thanks!!! Trying to get where I can start the assembly process!!!! Mike
After watching your excellent ax 15 videos I figured I would watch the frame video. As my wagoneer is my next project.
Thanks for watching. Mike
Pressure washing the inside of the frame is a phenominal idea
Based on all of the crud that came out, I would suggest anyone that like to go "Muddin'", to own a good pressure washer setup like this. Cheers! Mike
This just came across my feed. Interesting to watch others work on old jeeps too. I had to replace my rear crossmember when I got my jeep 20ish years ago but I did it on the vehicle. Then fabbed some heavy L-brackets to put in behind the new bumper.
These ole Jeeps are fun to work on. Great idea on the extra bracket. Once I get my Tub Complete. I will be assembling the Frame and chassis. At that point, I will need to start thinking about rear bumper mounting. Cool stuff! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I did the heavy brackets for strength with the bumper attachment and the jeep being lifted with a dropped trailer receiver hitch.
I totally bought the enema sprayer to do exactly what you did on the internal part of the frame rail.
How did it work for you? I think it does a great job removing dirt and sediment. Cheers…. Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I haven't used it yet but I know it's going to work. I've taken a lot of time doing research. I love your videos I've been watching them to do research for my 1984 Jeep Scrambler truck that needs a lot of work. I appreciate all the work you put into your videos.
Something you might want to consider is drilling some weep holes on the bottom of the frame to let mud and rocks get out. I drilled like three 3/4 inch holes on each side at the low points! Looking good Mike! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
That is a great idea Jim. I have a step bit that will allow me to do that easily. There are many holes in the frame, but mostly on the sides. Thanks! Mike
Nice! Spark proof Asbestos legs!
Not sure exactly what that means, but I appreciate the "Nice"... If your talking about my legs.... It is easier to burn off the hairs on my legs than it is to shave them. I live year-round in shorts! haahaa Mike
You may have saved my life with the use of rivet nuts. I striped the captive nut when reinstalling the cross member and assumed I was doomed
I have had that tool for a couple of years knowing that I "Wanted" to fine a reason to use it. It was a great opportunity. I often also forget how useful standard Rivets are. Cheers! Have fun with yours.... Mike
Hey Mike, I found your channel while working on current 82 scrambler project. I appreciate the helpful tips and look forward to seeing more of your progress👍
Hey Devin, great to hear from you. Hope you’re having fun with your CJ8. I have a little more Tub work to complete, then the fun begins…. ASSEMBLY!!!!
Mike
Hey Mike, Recently ran across your channel as I am going to completely go over and restore my 1979 CJ-5 Renegade. I have watched all your videos thus far and really appreciate the way you have put together and presented the information; showing how you have proceeded forward on each step. I am the original owner of the CJ and really did her a disservice by allowing the " 'ole girl" to get to her current state. She's been sitting for 20+ years and the body tub in the last few is beginning to show the resuts. I'm not sure I will be able to save it or will have to buy an aftermarket tub. My tub is the one that has the solid back (no tailgate), and I haven't been able to find a supplier who has that style tub available. Hope you keep going on the project and you have gained a loyal follower. Thanks Mike
Thanks for the feedback Gary and the details of your project. Like you, I am a long time owner of my Jeep (34 Years). Bought it back in college with the knowledge that the previous owner had wrecked it. Just had the bottom of my Tub sand blasted and it has returned to my garage for some more repairs. If you think your Tub is beyond repair, you might be able to find a used tub. While it would most likely need work as well, it might be an economical option. Best of luck with your project and definitely has fun with it! Thanks again... Mike!
Fantastic work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! Cheers to you. Mike
Mike, it's looking good. You are getting closer to the end of your restoration of Project Rowdy. Keep up the great work.
Trying to make all of these dreams to come true. Me and the Wife going for a cool evening cruise in the Jeep! Thanks for all of your support Richard! Mike
Wheres the build at now we need more videos I'm taking a lot of inspiration for my 97 Tj build so far project rowdy is looking good👍👍
I greatly appreciate you following along. Next video is half done. Trying to get the the bottom of my Tub straightened out. Cheers to you Sir... Mike
My experience on 81 cj 5 and trucks is that NONE of those "ospho" and other type rust converters last, even after por 15. Eventually starts flaking and then you get some REAL rust! By far the best semi permanent solution has been Surface Shield by pb blaster. It's lanoline that really adheres to metal, no need for converters and paint. If you were in the military you may remember cosmoline, that stuff will keep metal good forever! Lanolin is a cousin to cosmoline, but is fluid rather than a "parafin, waxy" type stuff. I'd dip my whole damn jeep in it if I could.
Always good to hear from those that have some real experience with various options for doing this. Thanks for sharing! Mike
Nice job, again! Your videos are high quality, 10 thums up!
Thank you RJ! Thank you for the feedback. Cheers... Mike
Couple of things I would recommend. 1. I would tap the riv nut to have it match the others, or get the correct size. Changing sockets and remebering to put the correct bolt in the correct spot during a job will be inconvenient. 2. Run a thread cleaner, not a tap through all the holes before you start assembly. Between the paint and blasting dust you will be glad when you don't have to stop to do it later.
Several good ideas. Thanks
Have you looked into having the frame dipped? I did that to my CJ5 frame. It came back looking sparkly new. More importantly, it revealed three or four cracks that were invisible before having it dipped, since they were hidden by paint and rust.
I had not looked into that. I thought that since I had the Media Pot Blaster, I would give it a try. I used it to blast all the problem areas. And to be honest and I believe I showed it in the video, there are areas that I left with the original black paint as there did not appear to be any underlying issues. I am pretty sure that I would have seen cracks. But you bring up a great point. You have to go deep enough to check for those things. Thanks for sharing that idea. Mike
i just did this on my CJ7 that was PACKED with dirt and sand from front to back and this method of using the sewer jetter worked amazing the inside of the frame is nice and clean now!
You probably just added years to your frame now that all that dirt is gone, wet mud will not be sitting there chewing its way out!!!
Early in this video, I completely screw up the Top and Bottom orientation of the frame. I had my mind set that the frame was up-side down, when in fact it was right-side up! Forgive me, I am human. I have assembled a complete list of parts and many of the tools that I used during this rebuild in an Amazon Affiliate Store page which can be found at the following link: www.amazon.com/shop/influencer-8c6a35f2. Best of luck and hope you are enjoying your builds. Mike
Looks great, after all that work I'd use a better grade paint then Rust-Oleum.its literally cheap paint. But great job chassis looks beautiful.
Thank you Sir! I did a lot of research on the paint and there are a handful of options that folks are using. This was not my original first choice, but many people have gone this route and liked it. So I just followed along.
I be ordering a pressure washer drain cleaner like this for my TJ. Perfect timing and great idea. I haven't been happy with any of my tested methods for removing crud inside the frame. This is satisfying. Nice work.
Awesome! I think any Jeep owner that likes to play in the mud…. Would benefit from owning a setup like this. There are plenty of pre drilled holes in the frame to do it. Mike
Would love to see more content on the CJ restoration! Great channel
Thank you for the message. Currently working on the bottom of the tub and editing a little bit of that video right now. Quite a bit of more work needed to get that one out. Cheers to you Edgar!
Just went back to rewatch this because I’m working on my rear body mounts and discovered a little rust just like yours. Thanks again for some amazing videos and work. Now I know I need 1/8 metal for that rear frame piece.
Awesome… glad it helped. I measured it with a gauge and it was 1/8, I believe at the metal supply shop they had 11 gauge ( I think) and that is what I ultimately bought and used. Have fun with yours.
Haven’t seen you in a while, hope everything is okay. Hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
All is good and just been busy with work travels. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family as well. Cheers.... Mike
Been following your channel since the start of Project Rowdy and I wish you had your own tv Mike! Love the video’s! It’s been just awesome watching you with your jeep project and the info you share, can not thank you enough!👏👍
Thank you Kerry for the kind words and have always appreciated your support throughout the project. Maybe.... just maybe, we will see this thing through. Cheers! Mike
Great video, Mike. That chassis turned out beautifully! Fantastic work, bro!
Thank you Ron. One of those hurry up then wait projects. Cheers!
MB - Great Work - I appreciate the recommendation of the poly carbide spider disk knowledge in this one - for steel paint prep
Those discs get the job done and seem to last for a reasonable amount of time.
Love youe video Mike ! Im doing a 1983 CJ 7 . Can save the cowel panel and fire wall . Havent got to frame yet . Think after degreaser i would clean it up with enamel reducer after . Then hit it with 220 grit where you blasted it if you can ...flat surfaces anyway. Enamel reducer again then spray coating. Think im going all the way with Eastwood products . Thanks Mike and good luck .
Great video,well done sir-subbed
Thank you for the king comment and glad you decided to follow along. Mike
Got some good tips from you Mike. The frame of my 37 was dipped over 30 years ago. At that time I had a coat of IMRON sprayed on it. But now I've boxed the frame and added components so I think I will take to sandblasting. I want to get the mill scale off and get a good coating on it. The inside of the original frame will still have the IMRON but the boxing is untreated. So your Eastwood coating might be the way I go. I had thought about spraying it with Cavity Wax.
Prior to doing mine, I had heard of Cavity Wax and this Internal Frame coating. My thought was, if I have just installed new metal say channels on the bottom of the body.... the wax option would be great. In my case, I needed some rust treatment properties in the treatment and did not think the wax would be able to provide that. This was easy to use, but comes out like a whole in my pocket. Cheers.... Mike
Great videos, I have learned alot. Waiting for more. Thanks
Thank you Sir! Currently working on my Tub and enjoying the process. Cheers… Mike
GREAT WORK, Mike! Awful exciting to get the chance to start building it back up after having done so much work in disassembly and rebuilding other components! Best of luck and we’ll talk soon!
Thanks John! I'm really looking forward to start putting things back together. Hope it all fit back! Thanks for all your help!
hi Mike not sure you will get this or remember but i bought a cj7 79 over the pond here in the uk doing total rebuild and following your vids and tips . anyway just checking you are doing ok as haven't seen you on here,
hope all's well cheers Sam
Thank you Sam for checking in. All is fine. My day job has me working 3 simultaneous project with one requiring a week travel once a month. The next video is started, an will probably be a short update. I have the Tub on it's side and I a doing final repairs to the bottom side in preparations to final undercoating. Your message is well received and I greatly appreciate you checking in. Cheers! Mike
cool work man! In Oregon I had my frame blasted and powder coated for $300!
That is about the prices that I have been seeing in the forums, but absolutely not available in my area. I'm Jealous!
Lot of work. You did good. I've spent a lot of time thinking about the best approach. Had a good cj5 frame stolen by scrapers.
Not very difficult work, but it kept me busy every night. Cheers! Mike
That chassis turned out very nice, I've got an 82 CJ I need to tear down and put back together this winter, it's in similar condition. I've not torn it down to the frame yet but it appears to be a bit better condition, overall, of course everything can change once the body is off the frame. I did a few trucks, early sixties Chevy and GMC back in the eighties, and had great success. I only hope my current project cleans up the frame as well as yours did. I think you made some really good choices, it came out very nice.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I do really like how mine turned out. There are other options, but everyone needs to decide what is right for them. Best of luck with your 82! Mike
Coming right along, looking great! 👍🏻
Thank you Mike. Just about to turn the corner where I will start emptying that bucket of bolts that I have accumulated. !!
Mike, the chassis looks great. I really like how it turned out!
Thank you Russell.... I am completely embarrassed as I owe you some mail!!!!! Many thanks for all of your support!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike No worries, I know how busy things get. I'm enjoying the progress. Keep up the great work!
Turned out great. I built a electrolysis tank and submerged half the frame at a time. In my opinion, the juice wasn’t worth the squeeze, i don’t believe it did much inside of the frame. I still need to patch and coat it. Thanks for sharing your experience, it will definitely help me with mine.
Electrilolysis never crossed my mind. Probably not something that I would have taken the effort to setup, BUT… if you had all of the loose stuff off the frame that would be the only way to ensure the inside was treated. Cheers. Mike
Too late for this project, but I recently learned that if you take a threaded rod coupler and weld it in the frame , it works really well. Just measure the width across the flats and make your hole that size. Probably have to tack it with a magnet holding it in position at first, but you'd want a bolt in it to protect the threads.
That would be a good idea. I do need to find and add some sleeves that prohibits the side walls from collapsing back at the rear crossmember support. But those need to be non-threaded. Mike
Fantastic work sir.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers! Mike
Great job Mike
Thank you! I appreciate the support. Mike
When is the next vid? Im restooring a 83 cj, and love your content.
Today, I edited the first 16 minutes of content for the next video. I like to get to a logical ending point. The day job has had me on the road quite a bit this years. I'll get something up soon. Thanks for the nod! Mike
That looks great
Thank you Sir!!!! Cheers! Mike
Sounds like a pissed off bumble bee in there😂
Exactly! Carving out years of mud. Cheers!
now on the one for the skid plate.. I suggest you tack it in place... I have heard they start to come loose in the steel.. and turn... so I am tacking the ones I put in
Hoping that I will not have this problem.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I am hope for the same... I only heard about them spinning on VGG.
I lucked out my frame was in really good shape....
Your are lucky. In their day, these ole things were so often abused. You got yourself a good one.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike my frame was cracked ... just in front of the front spring hangers, my frame had a 304 V8 and the torque cracked them
Great work Mike!, the same that I have to do for my 1976 CJ-7! Thanks for posting this video and all the details you explain. I send you a like and subscribe to your Channel too.
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the feedback. Gotta Love those CJs!!!! Hope you are enjoying yours. Cheers.... Mike
What size nozzle on the sand blasting hose? My apologies if I missed it.
Great project. Have learn a lot and found a lot of great ideas. Thanks loved the rear disc brake video!
I used the 1/8" ID Nozzle. Here is a link to the one that I purchased. amzn.to/3q1tPpG It came with a ball valve that I purposely did not use. A Valve at the nozzle end is a bad idea. Cheers! Mike
Well -- before my father in law passed, he got most of the rot off the tub of my CJ7 and got a coat of the final paint on some of the exterior. Going to be put back together bolt - by - bolt. Thankfully, I found your channel Mike, going to be great as a reference as I put my baby back together -- if you catch this soon, what kind of welder are you using on that frame?
Great news that you are taking over the ownership of the CJ and plan to show it some love. I have the Eastwood 135 Welder. Bought it brand new from then and really enjoy it. It is my first welder and I am self taught. This unit made it easy and I think I get really good results. The two things I was looking for when I purchased it was (1) something in the 140 Amp range and (2) had to have separate controls for Amperage and Wire Speed. This one does and I like it. Best of luck and have fun with your CJ. Thanks for watching and the feedback. Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Anytime Mike -- and thanks for the feedback on the welder. I'm going to have to self-teach as well. Cheers! // CL
Love the content so a couple of questions ?
Do you think it was worth sandblasting it your self buying everything time etc
And if you did this again would you try and put together some paint products that work together to avoid the 8 days of setting up paint guns cleaning up and painting and waiting great stuff #itsabouttogetrowdy
I have owned the Sandblasting Pot Blaster for a while and had a love had relationship with it. I knew there had to be something that could be done to make it work better. The New Nozzle was the answer. For larger item, I do not mind dragging it out and using it. Also this time, I suited up with long pants and long sleeve shirt which made it more pleasant. By grinding the flat areas with the Polycarbonite disc (which was very easy), the blasting time was cut way done. For the $500-$700 estimate, it was worth it to do it myself. With that said.... I am dragging out the Jeep Tub and about to load it on a trailer and take it for a 45 minute drive to someone that is going to sandblast the bottom and firewall. Sometimes you have to pick your battles and this one is not it. I already have all of the Painting equipment, so about the same answer. It was a simple process and happy with it. Just took longer than I estimated from my recliner! Cheers to you Bruce.... Mike
have you checked your frame... just forward of the front spring hangers, for cracks across the top of the frame rails
No cracks in this frame. I went over every inch several times.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike oh that's good... mine was crack on both sides... it came with the 304 v8, and I guess the last owners used a lot of skinny peddle
Sure would be good to know what size CFM was the compressor you used on that small blaster.
15.8 CFM @ 90 SPI. it is an older 60 Gallon Ingersol Rand.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike You have a good compressor, I need to get one. I have a CJ3b frame to do. Looks like them abrasive pads worked well I need to get some of them too, they will work great on most of the frame.
I picked them up from Harbor Freight for about $4 each and used 3 of them for all of the surfaces that I used them on. Hope that helps!
Mike, I did the same thing to my frame. But I used the eastwood frame paint. the silver color stuff and the the black. Can't remember the exact names of the items. its been about almot 2 yrs now. Good work. I added a ball valve on the end of my hose for the sand blaster. And used fine coal slag. What were you able to use? thx for the videos
I use a lot of Eastwood's products and believe them to be a great option for us DIYers. I think you are in great shape using it on your frame.
Regarding your Sand Blaster.... I ran across a video where the information just made sense to me. He stated that the worst part about the little Harbor Freight (or similar) Pot Blaster is that they put the ball valve at the nozzle. This would be similar to using a Dead-Man at the end. His point was, if you just stop the flow of suspended media, it then settles along with some additional media that falls from the tank creating a clog. I believe I mentioned that I shutoff the valve at the bottom of the media first. That allows the continued airflow to clear out the Nozzle Hose of all media as you are then shutting off the remaining valves. That process and my new Nozzle End, greatly eased my Love/Hate relationship with the Pot Blaster. I think everyone that owns one, has their go to process. This really works for me.
I was using Black Diamond from Northern Tool. Relatively cheap.
Cheers! Mike
Mike, You are correct. Mine willl clog in the hose exaclty like you said. I just blow out the excess. I had the deadman nozzle but it didn't last long and I have several ball valves . I know tey are being cut up on the inside from the media. I think I might have small pipe fittings like a pioe nipple on the end. I haven't used mine in 2 years so I can't remeber exactly. I got divorced and moved, so I had to stop on the jeep. Hope to get back on it pretty soon. Thanks for your videos. Good information
😁💪👍
Cool stuff…. Looks like you enjoyed! Cheers!
Two part Epoxy primer would have been the best first coating, but it would have cost more. But you still should get decades out of the product you used.
I've used Eastwood's 2K Epoxy Primer on all of the Tub repair work that I have performed so far. But it does not have any Rust Treatment properties in it. If I had taken the metal down to a completely clean metal surface, then I believe it would have been safe to do that. I probably wasn't far from that now that I think about it. I was brain washed by all of the chassis chatter and others doing it that had me sold on the product, then the product produced the process. Cheers to you Jeeper! Mike
How is the progress? Any new videos coming soon?
Thanks for checking in Jake. I am currently working and recording progress what I am doing on the Tub. I would like to get that complete while I have the space. Cheers!!!! Mike
Do you have a local tuner that can dial in the 5.3 using HP tuners or EFI Live? It’s going to need a tune with the cam upgrade.
My plans is to try it myself!?!? I have bought HP Tuners and a couple of credits. I plan to start with removing VATS and disabling things that I know I don’t have ( EGR, Rear O2s, etc). Once running, I plan to capture data on fuel trims and “other stuff” and attempt to make the changes myself. I’ve never done it, but I have some good resources and notes. If you have experience or suggestions…. I’m all ears. Thank you Jake! Mike.
I do not have experience other than paying someone else to do it for me. Definitely make a video on you tuning it. I know it will be very detailed. Thanks
@@jakewade7388 It should be fun and with the HP Tuners program, I should be able to fix any mistakes pointed out by my viewers. Would love to find someone with experience and I could collaborate with.
What is the name of the reverse pressure washing device you used to clean the inside of the frame?
It is a sewer jet. Here is a link to the listing of where I bought it. amzn.to/3M2HrrR
How #project rowdy coming along?
Back to working on the Tub. Now it's an exercise of jockeying for space of large objects. Cheers! Mike
Any idea if a 1972 is same frame ?
I believe the general measurements and length of the ‘72 thru ‘85 are the same. Things like mounting holes should be the same. There are minor differences such as the front shock mounts changed in 82 from the short style that is welded on to the taller style that are bolted on. And another slight change in 85 where there some small extra corner gussets near the rear. I can send you a PDF with images depicting these differences if that interests you. Send me an email at. UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com.
Any updates on Rowdy?
Project Rowdy is on my mind every day. My work schedule has had me out of town quite a bit this past year which has shifted my free time. I greatly appreciate you checking in and thank you for following along. The next video if half assembled. I just need to carve out more time. Cheers to you Jake! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Love that Jeep and what is going to be. I had a CJ7 back in the 80's and I miss it. Lots of great memories in that jeep.