I really like the instructions. One thing to keep in mind is that wiring voltage sources (batteries) in parallel can cause some problems and may shorten the life of the batteries or damage your devices if you don't have fuses. If one battery is at 12v and the other is at 11.5v when they are connected they can cause a shorting path between the two until they equalize to the nominal voltage. Could cause some damage to the batteries while doing this.
Thanks for the nice video. I learned a lot from it. Not only what to do, but more importantly what not to do. As you know, one should not discharge a sealed lead acid battery further than 50%, so in this case you really only have about 9 Ah of practical usage. In this case 9Ah time 12 volts will give you a little more than 100 Wh. If you wanted to stay with SLA, one should get a single 18 Ah battery. That is because as your batteries age, they will discharge and charge differently. I find that the most practical and most cost savings is to run a single 12 Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. It should outlast 4 to 6 of your SLA batteries and pay for itself over the long run. I would also suggest running marine 12 volt cable especially if this were to have salt water application. Most of all, I would not have placed my switch panel where you placed it on the side of the bin. I would have placed it either at the bottom of the bin if there was enough clearance (and if your kayak was pretty water tight) or placed it in a separate enclosure within the bin if you wanted protection from water. These bins are a little flimsy for mounting purposes. If you really need to mount to the bin get a I would use smaller components such as a separate cigarette power outlet and USB power and switch cluster and mount them in the lower side of the bin. It should drop in easier than the one piece power/switch unit you are trying to use. There are many ways to do what you are trying to do, this example is just one of them. It will also vary in the model and brand of kayak. Good luck and thanks again for the instructional video.
Switch panel will not work on the bottom of the bin as they would hit the floor of the kayak and that would expose the connectors to potential water that gets inside the hull. I have installed the USB and switch panels (now there are purpose built ones like Yak-Power if you watch my more recent videos) for years and have never had an issue. I also have more recent videos on SLA vs Lithium batteries.
heard when connecting two batteries.. one has a problem when one of the batteries dies faster then other... problem occurs when charging some fisherman said.. batteries in parallel doesn't work long term.. data was some pro fisherman doing some tours.. etc..
Hey Tim, awesome info man. Questions for you. What's the gauge size of wire are using to do the wiring? And, are there batteries in that size that you know of that will last longer? I'm getting my Hobie PA 14 soon and probably will end buying Lowrance HDS-7 carbon fish finder. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
Thanks. The positive and negative wires from the batteries are 14 gauge. All the other wires to the switches and components are 18 gauge. The 9ah batteries are the largest that will fit in the Hobie battery mounts. I ran the two batteries wired in parallel last season with the Elite-7 Ti and GEN3 HDS 9, I managed to get through a full day. I'm planning on getting the Lowrance Carbon 9 when it's released next month, but I'm not sure what the battery life will be with that.
What rear light do you have again, think you said a 360 light and Can you do a safety video? I'm new to kayaking..just purchase a PA 12 and your videos are my favorite!
Thanks for watching. Its called the BerleyPro ORB. I would like to put a safety video together, but it may be some with the season starting and I have a number of tournaments lines up. If you have any questions with respect to safety I will be more than willing to answer them. Water safety is something I am very passionate about.
@@TimPercyKayakFishing I purchase by Berley ORB because of your vids. Thanks alot my friend. If you are ever down in the Florida Panhandle send me a message!
Also just bc you have one and i can't find the answer anywhere, how much of the inside of the kayak gets wet? Does it only get wet with like saltwater use with some rough surf hitting it and pouring over? Or Does it get some water in but it stay toward the back or anything? Or does it stay dry inside? Thanks!
Chubs2287 the only time I get water in there is in very rough water when it splashes over the front hatch. Some guys have added an extra seal around the front hatch bucket to prevent water getting in, but it's never been enough of an issue for me.
It depends on what I am running. If I'm using the HDS9, running the WiFi, charging my iPad and cellphone I get about 9 hours. If I turn the WiFi off and not charging the iPad, about 12 hours.
ok over all a great vid. BUT! always remember safety first folks! on the larger wires, the insulation an take the heat and not melt. but if you have a smaller wire, please do not hold it usng the battery terminals. running the wire under the positive and negative post to hold th ewire still while you solder it, could very easily short out if the insulation melts. then you have either a fire or an explosion. always solder on the bench.
why not just mitre the corner off the bucket where you had marked the notch cut out to be and 2 part a filler piece in? you wouldn't be losing much real estate and would still work. just a thought
I really like the instructions. One thing to keep in mind is that wiring voltage sources (batteries) in parallel can cause some problems and may shorten the life of the batteries or damage your devices if you don't have fuses. If one battery is at 12v and the other is at 11.5v when they are connected they can cause a shorting path between the two until they equalize to the nominal voltage. Could cause some damage to the batteries while doing this.
Ryan Semple I've now switched to Lithiums...much lighter.
Thanks for the nice video. I learned a lot from it. Not only what to do, but more importantly what not to do. As you know, one should not discharge a sealed lead acid battery further than 50%, so in this case you really only have about 9 Ah of practical usage. In this case 9Ah time 12 volts will give you a little more than 100 Wh. If you wanted to stay with SLA, one should get a single 18 Ah battery. That is because as your batteries age, they will discharge and charge differently. I find that the most practical and most cost savings is to run a single 12 Ah Lithium Iron Phosphate battery. It should outlast 4 to 6 of your SLA batteries and pay for itself over the long run. I would also suggest running marine 12 volt cable especially if this were to have salt water application. Most of all, I would not have placed my switch panel where you placed it on the side of the bin. I would have placed it either at the bottom of the bin if there was enough clearance (and if your kayak was pretty water tight) or placed it in a separate enclosure within the bin if you wanted protection from water. These bins are a little flimsy for mounting purposes. If you really need to mount to the bin get a I would use smaller components such as a separate cigarette power outlet and USB power and switch cluster and mount them in the lower side of the bin. It should drop in easier than the one piece power/switch unit you are trying to use. There are many ways to do what you are trying to do, this example is just one of them. It will also vary in the model and brand of kayak. Good luck and thanks again for the instructional video.
Switch panel will not work on the bottom of the bin as they would hit the floor of the kayak and that would expose the connectors to potential water that gets inside the hull. I have installed the USB and switch panels (now there are purpose built ones like Yak-Power if you watch my more recent videos) for years and have never had an issue. I also have more recent videos on SLA vs Lithium batteries.
Where can i buy the center bucket do this whit? Can you link where i can buy it
You have to check with your local Hobie dealer, but I believe they are hard to find right now as Hobie is trying to catch up with stock
Awesome video. Wished you would off showed the plug part wirering set up a little more clear.
Sorry about that. I struggle with how much detail to include to keep the video a decent length, without boring people.
I've since switched to Yak-Power system to manage all my power and switches.
With that two way trailer connector - how'd you end up with a charger with that end on it - make it yourself?
heard when connecting two batteries.. one has a problem when one of the batteries dies faster then other...
problem occurs when charging some fisherman said.. batteries in parallel doesn't work long term.. data was some pro fisherman
doing some tours.. etc..
do these batteries work with the hobie battery holder?
Yes, near the end of the video I show them in the holders, mounted to the front mast post.
Hey Tim, awesome info man. Questions for you. What's the gauge size of wire are using to do the wiring? And, are there batteries in that size that you know of that will last longer? I'm getting my Hobie PA 14 soon and probably will end buying Lowrance HDS-7 carbon fish finder. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks,
Thanks. The positive and negative wires from the batteries are 14 gauge. All the other wires to the switches and components are 18 gauge. The 9ah batteries are the largest that will fit in the Hobie battery mounts. I ran the two batteries wired in parallel last season with the Elite-7 Ti and GEN3 HDS 9, I managed to get through a full day. I'm planning on getting the Lowrance Carbon 9 when it's released next month, but I'm not sure what the battery life will be with that.
I find with the battery case mounted where you have them my drop in white hatch bucket does not fit correctly, how did you resolve this?
I've never had an issue, it's always slipped in without issue with all my PA's
What rear light do you have again, think you said a 360 light and
Can you do a safety video? I'm new to kayaking..just purchase a PA 12 and your videos are my favorite!
Thanks for watching. Its called the BerleyPro ORB. I would like to put a safety video together, but it may be some with the season starting and I have a number of tournaments lines up.
If you have any questions with respect to safety I will be more than willing to answer them. Water safety is something I am very passionate about.
@@TimPercyKayakFishing I purchase by Berley ORB because of your vids. Thanks alot my friend. If you are ever down in the Florida Panhandle send me a message!
@@mikevestibularman Thanks. I was down there last year rigging a kayak for a gentleman. Fished a couple spots including the Everglades. I will be back
What gauge wiring is used? Is it all the same throughout?
Chubs2287 14 gauge, but you could get away with 16 gauge
Thank you very much!
Also just bc you have one and i can't find the answer anywhere, how much of the inside of the kayak gets wet? Does it only get wet with like saltwater use with some rough surf hitting it and pouring over? Or Does it get some water in but it stay toward the back or anything? Or does it stay dry inside? Thanks!
Chubs2287 the only time I get water in there is in very rough water when it splashes over the front hatch. Some guys have added an extra seal around the front hatch bucket to prevent water getting in, but it's never been enough of an issue for me.
Awesome ty for your speedy reply!!!
How long do these batteries last?
a full year, half a year, 2 years, etc.?
I have batteries that are 3 years old and they are still working fine.
How many hours of run time do you get?
It depends on what I am running. If I'm using the HDS9, running the WiFi, charging my iPad and cellphone I get about 9 hours. If I turn the WiFi off and not charging the iPad, about 12 hours.
why not just mount the switch panel somewhere amidship in the cockpit near the seat?
I did on last year's kayak, but decided to put in bucket this year so it is out of site and I can keep my phone dry and charging.
ok over all a great vid. BUT! always remember safety first folks! on the larger wires, the insulation an take the heat and not melt. but if you have a smaller wire, please do not hold it usng the battery terminals. running the wire under the positive and negative post to hold th ewire still while you solder it, could very easily short out if the insulation melts. then you have either a fire or an explosion. always solder on the bench.
why not just mitre the corner off the bucket where you had marked the notch cut out to be and 2 part a filler piece in? you wouldn't be losing much real estate and would still work. just a thought
Yup, I've already modified it. I will show it in Part 2.
Awesome