Ford Econoline Vans: Blower Motor Switch Failures Causing Meltdowns!
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- In this video we show you the most common reason why the blower motor does not work properly on the Ford Econoline vans 2003 to present.
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
I have a 93 and have this exact issue, except my 1 and 2 speeds always worked. I noticed a smell and saw smoke and knew there was a short. Thank you for showing us this!!!
I've learned so much from this guy. It doesn't seem as complicated once he guides you thru the process. Thank you so much and keep up the good work
Totally made sense and straight to the point. 2000 E250 106,000 miles. You described the exact sequence of events that I experienced in the gradual diminishing of my blower. Racing to beat winter here. Just changed out my totally clogged heater core, so now I gotta get this blower working again. Thanks a bunch!!
This happened to my 2003 Durango. The blower motor resistor failed, so upon disassembly, found the plug in and harness mostly melted. I got replacement parts at the parts store, and wouldn't you know it, the new harness had beefier wire, but every one of them was the same color green. Good thing I have the electrical smarts I do.
GM Astro does this also difference is, the fan switch is part of the control head 👎. Every car has issues. At least we have videos like this to help us repair our rides 👍 Thank you!
Got a 2001 e250 and this is exactly what is happening to me. Thank you 🙏
This has been a common long running issue…I deal in 72-76 Ford Torino and Mercury Montego cars, and other 72-79 Ford/Mercury intermediates and this has been an eternal issue.
I’d love to have a better way to rewire the system running off relays for the high current side.
This has definitely been a common problem over the years since the 90s
Very helpful video. I was able to repair my van thanks to your thorough instructions.
Thank you. Once again you have saved the day for me. My switch melted and then melted the knob, it was so hot that the metal shaft burned my finger one the knob came off.
That looked good compared to some of the ones I've had to fix..
Every E350 I have on the switch always goes out I finally had a van where the motor went on the fan
I appreciate your videos. I'd not mind watching the highlights of the actual component remove and replace just in case there are little plastic bits in the mountings and connectors that are prone to cracking or tricky disassembly. Keep'em coming. Ford does make me loco but so does my Chrysler, Buick and Mitsubishi. My only vehicle that doesn't is my 2012 Fuji Gran Fondo 2.0. 👍👍👍
Thanks for info.....now I won't be frustrated with replacement of mind...and why 3 parts are needed.
As usual great information great knowledge your awesome man!
Brings back memories for me
Looks like the exact same switch panel at my grandmothers old 92 Aerostar, crazy how long they kept some of those parts.
Do you all like my personal ford tec....lol...Brian has his act together fellers....the go to guy....thx Brian...
Very helpfull i have a 99 now i know what to look for thankyou!!
love your channel. i have a similiar van that the blower works on low and high only and not the two middle speeds. i've replaced the resistor and fan speed switch and still not fixed. this thing is driving me nutty
That was a great video. My problem exactly.
Thank you for you knowledgeable and concise advice!
I just fixed this issue on my 08 van. I hit a hump in the road in winter and my blower motor stopped. What I eventually found out is that the connectors to the blower motor and the speed switch were fried, and the blower resistor was corroded. So I replaced all those and then the AC fuse burned up too because the AC relay was soo corroded due to salt and water. So I changed all that and now it works great. Also if you are wondering where the AC relay is, it's in that weird box under the hood right infront of the driver's side. Those relays are not easy to find unless you order them or pull them from a junk yard. It's not the same as the blower motor relay in the main fuse box under the hood.
I'm just sharing just incase someone else has the same problem.
I have the 2013 e350 and my fan only works on high too ! Do you have the part numbers for the pig tail , resistor , and the switch ? Thanks for the video
Hahahaha, that’s happened to me a couple times. 390k miles on my junk
Correction, did not stop making them. Still alive and well in stripped chassis form. I deal with this all the time in U-Haul trucks. Standard practice is switch/pigtail/resistor on all of them I come in contact with. I also use Ox-Gard on all connections. The switch is a hopelessly cheap design but is easy to diagnose & change.
Yup I know the heavy duties are still being made but I am talking from the passenger van side of things.
What about if no speed at all, do you think is still the resistor?
I have the same issue. No speed works but when I drive on the freeway, I can feel the faintest cool air coming out of the vents.
@@pasteasplaintextThis is happening to me right now. Did you ever figure yours out?
Aloha Brian,
Thanks for a great video. My 2006 F250 had the same problem. Replaced the resistor and switch but noticed the female connector behind the switch is overheated. I could cut and spice a new female connector but so see you have a Motorctaft Kit there...is the kit the repair for the wires? If so, What part number? Thanks again.
I have also had several that the blower motor(although working correctly) was drawing to much amperage..... change the blower motor if you are repeatedly changing switches.
I have never come across that before in all my years. Was the motor shaft binding when turned by hand or did you compare the amperage draw from another known good econoline in the shop?
@@FordTechMakuloco compared to other vans we had.
Yes that’s a good point. I’m just a home mechanic but just changed the resistor and harness on my 2001 F250 and a few years back on my old 4 runner and both fan motors were tight and seemed to be drawing more then they should so went ahead and changed them both also. Not too expensive for the piece of mind it gave me. Great videos! I really appreciate your detailed instruction!
If this were an isolated incident I would have changed the blower motor also but for the econoline vehicles this is quite common of a failure no matter what year.
@@FordTechMakuloco the most common fail for me has been the switch.... we have had a handful of them that would go through a switch every few months and found that the blower motor was the culprit.... and the funny thing is they were not squealing at all.
Thank you for helping me fix mine. 2001 E150
Thanks again great job
Good video, covers both possibilities. My fan was only working on the lower 3 fan settings, no high. I replaced the resistor, no change. Then I replaced the burned/ melted pigtail & switch, now works perfectly. It's a bitch to get to in a 2010 E150, doesn't have the same easy access panel of the van in the video. Thanks!
i watched this video and replaced everything but the harness !! yeah I'm an idiot!, if you do it exactly the way brian says man you will not have a problem, he is solid on the money
Don't even own one, but still love to learn. 👍
Do you have the part numbers for each of the items you mention in this video? Thanks
Thank you!
As always Great Informative demonstration video @FordTechMakULoco
You also want to check the ground for the BM resistor it's by the accumulator drier often the bolt is very rusted and it can caused increased amperage through the switch
Can you explain how a corroded ground can cause higher amperage pull on the switch? Are you saying the ground adds another load in series with the blower motor? Kinda like the resistors in the blower motor resistor? I would think the circuit would break before pulling more amperage, if it did the bolt and ground wire would be hot and melt in some cases.
Didn't mean any disrespect bryan in my experience the increased resistance causes the motor to spin much slower sometimes stopping it letting it sit on one spot on the commutator of the motor passing more amps at a lower voltage than the motor does on high setting which leads to the wires and switch settings for the lower settings to get very hot, also it seems to shorten the life of the BM quite a bit. I may be misunderstanding whats going on but I've had several trucks in the fleet with this issue and that ground always seems to be corroded along with it.
Great info...please start including part #s for all parts required to do the repairs...
I always do including the special tools needed for a job unless there is an instance like this that there are so many variations it would be impossible to list parts for every year and trim level. I don't want to mis lead viewers if I don't have the correct info for their particular model.
Fixed a few hundred of them. Sterling heavy trucks same parts same burnt up parts
That is crazy. Why isn't Ford doing anything to fix this? It is their fault.
Thank you so much!! Your videos are pretty informative.
Should you change the blower motor as well due to high ampere draw?? So the new harness and switch don’t get burnt up
Never seen one cause this in my 20 years of wrenching. This is a common issue with the e series new or old.
That was jacked!
I wish you would've came out with this video a month ago. This situation happened to my 2014 F150 Ecoboost. Blower burnt also.
Good job you look like always ! Respect .
Thanks for sharing
Be well be safe
Keep up the good work. Thank you.
i have a fleet of e450 vans the earlier ones i had the issues of melting the switch even with new motro and resistor i ended up running the high through a relay took care of the issues now to be fair i have e450 shuttle busses and have carrier ac units
Yup, common on these vans👍
Well thanks for the Vid but would have been nice to have the Part numbers for the Pigtail kit/Switch/resistor included plus the hardest part of the whole project how to remove the Bezel around/in-front of the switch panel.
I'm doing research on the econoline blower fan motor, for upgrading the 72-76 Ford torino blower fan, this is nothing new! Never understood why FoMoCo rammed all the current through a switch. Also seen the full size Chevy vans really suffer from the same issues of control unit burning up and failing. I used to manage a small fleet of Ford Econolines, and Chevy full sized vans.
Could a melted pigtail cause the ac to blow off and on intermittently? The blower control switches for front and rear were replaced, but they didn't replace the pigtails. Im not sure if he even looked at them since he didn't pull it out like you did. And worked from underneath it.
Replaced the blower motor and the resistor for the front and rear.
The front and rear ac goes off and on intermittently.
Great video. My problem is the same but instead of blowing only on high speed. mine only blows on low speed. Any suggestions for me?
I guess this is still better than the sprinter vans. I worked on one that the blower motor just rusted up and seized. It happened around 100k miles on it and only 4 or 5 years old. This was on a van used almost everyday, as you can tell from those miles. These three parts in this video cost less than that one blower motor also.
I have heard of people having had the blower motor changed on a motorhome on a Sprinter chassis, but they can't get it to work again.
In the 1970’s Fords we had a similar problem with the AC switches, in high blower it would burn the switch up because all the current ran through the switch. We would put a relay so in high blower would be run through the relay. I don’t know how those are wired. But would that help with that setup.
I just wired my switch so tha Only the high works. But my fan still goes slow sometimes and fast others to others I'm thinking I need to bypass the resistors as well?
Thanks.
Former Ford Dealer Tech here, hey I really respect your opinion and appreciate your sharing your knowledge and experiences with us all... I use 5w30 in the summer and the recommended 5w20 during winter fall and spring while operating my 2011 F150 3.7 ltr .... Do you think it is ok to use 5w30 in the Summer seasons ???
BTW I live in Rhode Island (Climate wise New England region)..
I would stick with 5w-20 year round in this engine.
ok thanks
Is there bulbs in the heater controls?? Mine do not light up at night. Radio, cruise buttons, dash everything else does. Except the heater controls. Kinds erks me because I csnt see them st Nighy so it's a little annoying. I guess I need to pull the Hester control out and see. From photos I've looked at I don't see any bulbs for them. R the dimmer.lights built into the whole unit?
I have always fixed my own sense I was 14... so I'm no stranger to car problems
Oh how I wished you would have filmed how you took out the panel
Thank you for this video!
Hi do you think using dielectric grease helps to prevent melting connectors ? Thank you for your time to show it.
No the melting is caused by worn contacts inside the switch assembly.
@@FordTechMakuloco - Why would contacts wear out?
I have one that continues to come back with the switch melted. We replace the switch, connector and resistor every time. One we even replaced the blower motor as well. It continues to burn up switches. Can you help?
I have a question. I have a ford expedition xlt 2004 and the back a/a unit doesn't blow cold air. Also the front a/c goes on and of in all speeds, any ideas can help me out I will appreciate it. Thanks and also your channel help me a lot with my expedition.
I have that exact same van. Can you do a video on how to remove the dash trim so I dont destroy it?
My issue is that the relay for the blower motor on the 2003 blows same blade on the past 3 fuses. sooo...resistor ? Or another issue?
Thanks
Do you know why my front vents won’t blow air and the rear vents at the top only blow from max AC e-350 ford van 2014
What if only low works but not the other speeds? Could it still be same problem?
Guys..... I have a 97 e350 class b RV..
When I turn in the AC... Or just the vent... The heater stays on... The blender is working because I can shift from vent to defrost..etc no problem
The issue is the heater is always on...even when I switch on the AC...
Do you have any suggestions
Mine only works on 4 like you said in the video, also it only blows on the floor none of the other settings like vents or windshield work. Would that be a switch?
Probably resistor and you have a vacuum problem on other know. Broken vacuum line or vacuum servo
AWSOME!
Keep up the good work.
Hello,
I have 2003 ford 7.3 diesel. The speedometer does not work. I replaced the both sensors. What else can I do? Thanks
question is this the same for it stuck in low mode / i pull the knob of and the switch was super hot . or is it a short in the wiring?
My blower motor is a Chinese replacement from the fan turns where mine gets hot is on high speed...
Could you send a link to the pigtail
Another great video!
I already did that and it did it again so what's causing it ?
So no relay at all, huh? I've got an '01 350, and neither front or rear switches work on any setting.
What would you say if it works on all speeds except high
2011 e350 rear ac fan
Thanks very much
How did you take the panel off?
This happened on my 2012 f150. Replaced and used dielectric grease
My connection was on the passenger foot area panel
Do you know the part number for just the switch?
Man this is not related to this video but I have a 15 f550 roll back with a 6.8 that has an surge issue nobody around here can diagnose. The a/f ratio pid keeps flopping back and forth . I've replace fuel pump ,fuel pump control module, pcm ,maf sensor ,evap purge solenoid. The intake has been smoked twice no leaks . All parts replaced have been ford parts . Any ideals ? By the way when I first purchased it (82k and recently rebuilt by a ford dealer) would randomly do this once a month now it's an all day everyday concern.
Hi! I need some work done to my 03 f150. How can I get my truck to you to give you some business.
There's a link in the description to his business, BSG Automotive. I think he's in Yorkville, Illinois?
Thank you! Thats 20minutes from my house!
I had a 2006 I bought new , until I sold it I replaced all that at least four times. Just bad engineering and is what it is.
Mr slaughter... I have a 97 e350 class b RV..
When I turn in the AC... Or just the vent... The heater stays on... The blender is working because I can shift from vent to defrost..etc no problem
The issue is the heater is always on...even when I switch on the AC...
Do you have any suggestions
Nice!!
I replaced all of that and my van still melts . Any advice
1983 ford Econoline. No heat. Dose it have a rester
So why is this happening ? Are the windings in the motor to small ? Bad ground, cheep switch ? I'd like some answers, the Ford dealership won't give me an answer, they 175.00 an hour, to look at it.... ummm. No
Does the rear zone have the same set of issues? If so, where on the vehicle is it's resistor? Thanks!
There's a few videos on RUclips that show where the rear auxiliary heat/AC components are located on the Ford Econoline. I'm almost certain that it's located behind the very rear interior panel on the drivers side rear
mine blows low when on high... is it the motor resistor or the switch? the switch does get hot I noticed.
I think it's the switch but should I change both anyways?
Replaced my upper intake manifold on my 2004 f150 and now it won't start but it will turn over getting fuel and spark will the VCT cause this problem it sat for 3 months before i replaced the manifold
Are you sure you didnt have a gasket fall out or get pinched? Did you miss a plug in for something. Not much else could be wrong if it ran before you changed manifold
I already changed all parts u metion here and even blower. Now ew blower wont work
Could you install a relay so the amperage is not going through the switch?
that was my thought too but I think it's not easy because of the variable speeds.
I've replaced a lot of blower motor resistors on rangers and almost every one I've done the pigtail has been melted/corroded to the resistors. Is there a similar problem?
yes
@@FordTechMakuloco are the switches the issue in the rangers also or is it the resistors, never pulled a switch out but seen many resistor pigtails melted
On mine: blower motor was bad, resistor was bad, and the low and high did not work
Melted blower switch on an Econoline? Replaced several of those on my parent's 1989 Econoline in the 200+k miles they owned it.
yea it's hard to find any videos on the older econolines. I have an issue with one now and nobody knows squat... including me! lol