I completed the conversion today thanks to your kit, it runs way better than it ever did with the solex on it, setting up the fuel system was probably the hardest part.
This is beautiful! I just picked up an all original 3A and am currently going thru it and taking care of the little issues it has. This is now on my radar! Great channel! Subbed!
You can add a bigger carb but the WO will flow plenty of air for a 134 cid flat head up to 4,000 rpm. Not much more power beyond 3,000. The hot manifold helps atomize the fuel like that 'V' thing when cold. If the heat control valve isn't seized it shouldn't be an issue once it warms up. Probably don't need it with the Sniper. That linkage is beautiful. Where did the PCV go?
I didn't feel any power improvement, but the overall easy driveability is beyond comparison to the carb. Just saw you ordered a kit today. Thanks for the support!
@@TurnNBurn we do a lot of snipers on our Land Cruiser 2f builds do notice slight amount of a stronger pull on those. I look forward to putting it on my already perfect running Willys
Can you separate the inlet and exhaust manifolds by careful application of an angle grinder or hacksaw? This is a trick we used to do on the old BMC A Series engine (classic Mini) to stop the inlet heating up so badly.
The manifolds are already split, but they share the same 2 mounting bolts. So half the bolt covers the intake, half on exhaust. Most of the heat likely comes from where they're bolted together at the heat riser.
You can buy this adapter kit on my website: www.turnandburnout.com
I completed the conversion today thanks to your kit, it runs way better than it ever did with the solex on it, setting up the fuel system was probably the hardest part.
Amazing!!
What’s up this this channel? Any future videos?
Extremely busy with all these hobbies, but will edit and upload videos this year.
This is beautiful! I just picked up an all original 3A and am currently going thru it and taking care of the little issues it has. This is now on my radar! Great channel! Subbed!
It could not be more simple. I plan on purchasing one for my Jeep! Just bad to tha bone!
Gonna be popular
You can add a bigger carb but the WO will flow plenty of air for a 134 cid flat head up to 4,000 rpm. Not much more power beyond 3,000. The hot manifold helps atomize the fuel like that 'V' thing when cold. If the heat control valve isn't seized it shouldn't be an issue once it warms up. Probably don't need it with the Sniper. That linkage is beautiful. Where did the PCV go?
Very nice and interesting
Did you see the new 4 cylinder LS that is coming out? Seems like something you'd be interested in.
I've been drooling over it. Very curious to see what the price tag is.
Does anyone know the exact length of a ww2 jeep, without the bumpers and spare wheel attachment? basically the tub + the hood
Did you notice any power improvements under a load. Or just drivability at altitude and off-road gains
I didn't feel any power improvement, but the overall easy driveability is beyond comparison to the carb. Just saw you ordered a kit today. Thanks for the support!
@@TurnNBurn we do a lot of snipers on our Land Cruiser 2f builds do notice slight amount of a stronger pull on those. I look forward to putting it on my already perfect running Willys
On your old dune buggy where did you get the rear tires?
Facebook marketplace
Can you separate the inlet and exhaust manifolds by careful application of an angle grinder or hacksaw? This is a trick we used to do on the old BMC A Series engine (classic Mini) to stop the inlet heating up so badly.
The manifolds are already split, but they share the same 2 mounting bolts. So half the bolt covers the intake, half on exhaust. Most of the heat likely comes from where they're bolted together at the heat riser.
How do I get Serial Number 001?
You'll have to speak with the Smithsonian about that