I always hated system 2000 myself. Suck to work on. There’s was a company back awhile that was pushing them so hard. I liked getting the customer but when they told me who installed it I cringed . Pain to clean also. Replacing the front insulating board was always fun you had to almost everything of the front as I’m sure you know and it was a job. Never liked the control either Great video
There is a company in Oceanside NY that loves these units. Weird how their customers, former customers, are now my clients who get treated with “white glove” and “red carpet” service from Pipe Doctor Home Services 516-348-6300
Many years ago a friend of mine did plumbing in a pretty large house. Maybe 12 rooms ? They had an oil fired systems 2000 installed by others. Every room had its own zone including bathrooms. There were at least twenty four lines on the feed and returns. Many zone valves, large manifold set ups. Very impressive . That is the only system I have seen in 47 years of plumbing here on Cape Cod. Think that was around 1982 or 1983
My father's old house had a System 2000, in Falmouth, Cape Cod. Oil fired with a Carlin burner. There are a few of them around on the Cape. You'll know if you're working on his old system as it has a B&G series 100 pump. That was done because it kept burning out wet rotor circs due to the old huge piping. Not enough head and they were cavitating. With the S100 it ran for years with no issues. Still running now with the 2nd or 3rd set of owners since.
I like the fact you even post ones you don't know about and show that some stuff you don't know but Once return temperature drops below 140 shuts zone valves keeps doing that until temperature in system equalizes to be above 140 and then we'll run constant
absolutely. i keep it real. i don't know everything, far from. but I'm not afraid to ask when I don't and learn something new everyday. thats how we grow.
Hello Mike Big time fan. I have one of these boilers in my house and I need to change the temperature digital thermometer. Just got one ordered from a friend of mine. Any advice how to replace it.
The nest thermostat with out a common wire, will steel power causing whay your seeing. A fast stat common maker could solve this. All wifi thermostats should have a real common wire and never be allowed to steal power. Power stealing leads to all kinds of weird symptoms.
Mikey was getting whooped on by a controller for a while. lol never worked on one of them, but I figured it out real fast, when I seen the temp bar graph low and the zone output lights not lit up. 🤪 but I'm more of an electronics, electrical, computer and more type of fella. I could see where it would throw many folks off into tangent.
Energy manager is like a triple aquastat, it has to maintain a minimal temperature which at this point is 140 before zone valves will open. You can increase that temp to 150 by flipping the dip switches on the bottom of the energy manager. I should’ve waited till the end of the video because you picked up on it at the end
DIGITAL MANAGER OPERATION AND DIAGNOSTICS o To confirm operation of the Manager lights, turn power off briefly and power up the Manager. On startup, all outputs and temperature lights should turn on for a brief moment. o Thermostat Lights indicate a thermostat calling for heat. If all lights are OFF, the burner will not run because there is no call for heat. T4 is located on the bottom. o The digital temperature sensor senses return temperature and is required for the Manager to work properly. The E100 error code will flash if the digital sensor is not working properly. o The Option Switches located on the underside of the Manager are used to customize system settings. o Heating or Zone output lights indicate 24-volt power from 24VAC to ZX (ZHW, Z1, Z2, Z3, and/or Z4). This provides power to 24-volt zone valves or zone circulator relays. o The Inducer light ON indicates 24 volts from IND to 24VAC. This pulls in the 24-volt coil on the inducer relay, providing 120-volts to the power vent. This will only operate with option switch 2 ON. o The Burner light ON indicates a closed contact between B1 to B2. This is wired to T-T on the burner primary control. o Burner Restart Delay: If a thermostat light goes off, ending a call for heat, and then immediately goes back on, calling for heat again, the Manager will delay turning on the burner light for two minutes to prevent short-cycling the burner. (45 second delay for a Zone HW call.) o The Circulator light ON indicates 24 volts from CIRC to 24VAC. This pulls in the 24-volt coil on the Burner/Main circulator relay, providing 120-volt power to both the main circulator and the burner. o The temperature display bar graph indicates the temperature of the water returning to the boiler, not the temperature of the water being supplied to the heating system from the boiler. o The Manager is the operating aquastat and will turn off the burner if return temperature reaches 170°F (operating limit). o The zone outputs will open when the return temperature is above 150°F and zone outputs will close when the return temperature drops below 130°F. If a new zone calls when the returns are below 150°F the new zone will not open until the temperature exceeds 150°F (even if other zones are open). o The boiler will typically take about 2 minutes to reach 150°F from a cold start. o When the Manager is working properly and has found a condition that needs service, the 100,120,130, or 140 light will flash. Flashing lights mean the boiler, circulator, or something other than the Manager needs service. o NOTE: The Manager cannot lockout the primary control on the burner. The E140 error code usually indicates that a burner lockout has occurred. Follow the instructions under ‘In Case Of No Heat’ in order to reset the burner control.
Those boilers are made in New Jersey weather in Easton Pennsylvania and they're very popular over in this part of Pennsylvania a lot of oil more than gas I found
@@PipeDoctor lol what does that mean? It doesn’t have anymore parts than any other boiler . I think if you looked into them you would change your mind, I’ve installed hundreds and still do
@@whodat1473these newer washers and dryer’s have many more parts to go bad. I’ve voltage circuit boards and low voltage circuit boards, etc. digital control panels just a lot more issues. Basically what he needs is a lot more reasons to go wrong.
Many years ago John Marian developed this boiler in patchogue LI It was on the market way before it’s time and most techs where afraid of them. But they are very simple to repair
When running well the system 2000 is a good unit, however I feel like they are overpriced for what they are. Steel boiler with an energy manager and FP HX for domestic HW. You can recreate the same setup/behavior with a 3 pass CI boiler and decent control like Honeywell AQ or Tekmar.
I’m not a fan of system 2000 always hated working on them I feel your pain Mikey pipes and also don’t like the nest thermostats always have problems with those stats . I usually replace them with a different WiFi stat
The nest thermostat in my opinion is absolutely the worst thermostat on the face of the earth. I even think it’s the worst hockey puck on the face of the earth.
I always hated system 2000 myself. Suck to work on. There’s was a company back awhile that was pushing them so hard. I liked getting the customer but when they told me who installed it I cringed . Pain to clean also. Replacing the front insulating board was always fun you had to almost everything of the front as I’m sure you know and it was a job. Never liked the control either
Great video
There is a company in Oceanside NY that loves these units. Weird how their customers, former customers, are now my clients who get treated with “white glove” and “red carpet” service from Pipe Doctor Home Services 516-348-6300
The home owner was content gold! I’m glad your there to help him out! Good people
Hell yeah, he was one cool cat!!!!
Many years ago a friend of mine did plumbing in a pretty large house. Maybe 12 rooms ? They had an oil fired systems 2000 installed by others. Every room had its own zone including bathrooms. There were at least twenty four lines on the feed and returns. Many zone valves, large manifold set ups. Very impressive . That is the only system I have seen in 47 years of plumbing here on Cape Cod. Think that was around 1982 or 1983
Insane but ultimate in zone control
My father's old house had a System 2000, in Falmouth, Cape Cod. Oil fired with a Carlin burner. There are a few of them around on the Cape. You'll know if you're working on his old system as it has a B&G series 100 pump. That was done because it kept burning out wet rotor circs due to the old huge piping. Not enough head and they were cavitating. With the S100 it ran for years with no issues. Still running now with the 2nd or 3rd set of owners since.
Great job, Mike, on Hunting down the Issue. I hope we hear what the Company told you to see if it’s their Normal Operation. Thanks! 👍🙏
its normal
@@PipeDoctor Wow, that must be murder on zone valves, all the constant, opening-closing.
I like the fact you even post ones you don't know about and show that some stuff you don't know but Once return temperature drops below 140 shuts zone valves keeps doing that until temperature in system equalizes to be above 140 and then we'll run constant
absolutely. i keep it real. i don't know everything, far from. but I'm not afraid to ask when I don't and learn something new everyday. thats how we grow.
Mikey is a mensch @@PipeDoctor
Perfect timing, I ran into a couple of these buggers last week, i was like WTF is this magic
Haha!
Hello Mike
Big time fan. I have one of these boilers in my house and I need to change the temperature digital thermometer. Just got one ordered from a friend of mine. Any advice how to replace it.
Hey Mike that's normal operation for the manager.
correct
The nest thermostat with out a common wire, will steel power causing whay your seeing. A fast stat common maker could solve this. All wifi thermostats should have a real common wire and never be allowed to steal power. Power stealing leads to all kinds of weird symptoms.
Looks like the thermostat is causing more trouble than expected! Time for some power struggles in the house.
Nice. Those boiler cycle between zones and waits for boiler to be hot before opening valve
Yes, you are right
Yes. I hate them system 2000 also. It shuts everything down below 140 degrees. It through me for a loop also until i read the manual real good
I haven’t worked on too many of the systems, but the one I worked on they’ve always had problems
Mikey is supposed to do that because it doesn’t want to circulate cold water it goes on and off by temperature
Mikey was getting whooped on by a controller for a while. lol
never worked on one of them, but I figured it out real fast, when I seen the temp bar graph low and the zone output lights not lit up. 🤪 but I'm more of an electronics, electrical, computer and more type of fella. I could see where it would throw many folks off into tangent.
Yeah it had me going for a bit
Energy manager is like a triple aquastat, it has to maintain a minimal temperature which at this point is 140 before zone valves will open. You can increase that temp to 150 by flipping the dip switches on the bottom of the energy manager.
I should’ve waited till the end of the video because you picked up on it at the end
I never had problem working on them. Very quiet unit.
Scott M How's it going man? It cold and raining up there?
@scottvolage1752 yes it is and I hate it. Leaving on cruise up here in a week. Coming right back to Florida then hitting some islands.
Be safe traveling and get back safe.@@scottmaz4063
That's great to hear! It's always a relief when things run smoothly.
DIGITAL MANAGER OPERATION AND DIAGNOSTICS
o To confirm operation of the Manager lights, turn power off briefly and power up the Manager. On startup, all
outputs and temperature lights should turn on for a brief moment.
o Thermostat Lights indicate a thermostat calling for heat. If all lights are OFF, the burner will not run because there
is no call for heat. T4 is located on the bottom.
o The digital temperature sensor senses return temperature and is required for the Manager to work properly. The
E100 error code will flash if the digital sensor is not working properly.
o The Option Switches located on the underside of the Manager are used to customize system settings.
o Heating or Zone output lights indicate 24-volt power from 24VAC to ZX (ZHW, Z1, Z2, Z3, and/or Z4). This provides
power to 24-volt zone valves or zone circulator relays.
o The Inducer light ON indicates 24 volts from IND to 24VAC. This pulls in the 24-volt coil on the inducer relay,
providing 120-volts to the power vent. This will only operate with option switch 2 ON.
o The Burner light ON indicates a closed contact between B1 to B2. This is wired to T-T on the burner primary
control.
o Burner Restart Delay: If a thermostat light goes off, ending a call for heat, and then immediately goes back on,
calling for heat again, the Manager will delay turning on the burner light for two minutes to prevent short-cycling
the burner. (45 second delay for a Zone HW call.)
o The Circulator light ON indicates 24 volts from CIRC to 24VAC. This pulls in the 24-volt coil on the Burner/Main
circulator relay, providing 120-volt power to both the main circulator and the burner.
o The temperature display bar graph indicates the temperature of the water returning to the boiler, not the
temperature of the water being supplied to the heating system from the boiler.
o The Manager is the operating aquastat and will turn off the burner if return temperature reaches 170°F (operating
limit).
o The zone outputs will open when the return temperature is above 150°F and zone outputs will close when the
return temperature drops below 130°F. If a new zone calls when the returns are below 150°F the new zone will
not open until the temperature exceeds 150°F (even if other zones are open).
o The boiler will typically take about 2 minutes to reach 150°F from a cold start.
o When the Manager is working properly and has found a condition that needs service, the 100,120,130, or 140
light will flash. Flashing lights mean the boiler, circulator, or something other than the Manager needs service.
o NOTE: The Manager cannot lockout the primary control on the burner. The E140 error code usually indicates
that a burner lockout has occurred. Follow the instructions under ‘In Case Of No Heat’ in order to reset the burner
control.
yes, correct, ty
Those boilers are made in New Jersey weather in Easton Pennsylvania and they're very popular over in this part of Pennsylvania a lot of oil more than gas I found
Thanks for sharing that
Those are really nice oil fired boilers
I think so too!
Mike reminds me of Ltd Columbo, there's no job he can't solve, excellent work my friend ❤
Where there’s a will, there’s a way
“Just one more thing” lollll
best boilers on the market, normal operation, works of return temp, what could you possibly not like about them?
Too many things to fail.
@@PipeDoctor lol what does that mean? It doesn’t have anymore parts than any other boiler . I think if you looked into them you would change your mind, I’ve installed hundreds and still do
@@whodat1473these newer washers and dryer’s have many more parts to go bad. I’ve voltage circuit boards and low voltage circuit boards, etc. digital control panels just a lot more issues. Basically what he needs is a lot more reasons to go wrong.
Many years ago John Marian developed this boiler in patchogue LI It was on the market way before it’s time and most techs where afraid of them. But they are very simple to repair
When running well the system 2000 is a good unit, however I feel like they are overpriced for what they are. Steel boiler with an energy manager and FP HX for domestic HW. You can recreate the same setup/behavior with a 3 pass CI boiler and decent control like Honeywell AQ or Tekmar.
I’ve never installed one and I’ve service probably a couple dozen of them in my dozen plus years running my own Service calls
I’m not a fan of system 2000 always hated working on them I feel your pain Mikey pipes and also don’t like the nest thermostats always have problems with those stats . I usually replace them with a different WiFi stat
I haven’t repaired too many system 2000s so I guess they are pretty good
I remember the booze cruise! Never got around to trying.
I did it once. Was fun!
Have you moved anyone from New York to Florida?
no
I was screaming at my screen about the zone numbers :)
lol
That’s an interesting one Mikey 🤔🤔🤔🤔
yup!
Long video yesss🍻
#2 again Keep it real Mikey Pipes.
Hat Scott v
We call those "System 2000k ways to break". Their junk compared to Buderus cast iron boiler with Riello oil burner and SSU indirect.
yup, sounds about right!
That's normal, circulator stops on low limit and then starts when boiler gets hot again...
yup.....I read that since yesterday
Circulator doesn’t stop, zone valves just close
Mike……LMFAO with this guy!!!!
Love this guy.
Use Zone port 4, Just move the wires. Probably no programming needed. 🤞
Ah, the joys of troubleshooting - just a bit of wire gymnastics!
Those nest thermostats do that probably broken
nope. internal controls on Y2K shit box
#4🎉🎉🎉🎉 😂😂😂😂
I hate those system 2000s. Great video
Thank you for watching! I appreciate your support.
I fucking hate System 2000. We see a bunch in NH
I’m
Not a fan either
Hate nest thermostats hate smart thermostats in general… just gimme a regular non programmable 2 button thermostat any day
The nest thermostat in my opinion is absolutely the worst thermostat on the face of the earth. I even think it’s the worst hockey puck on the face of the earth.
@@PipeDoctor couldn’t agree more
The main control usually gives problems
It can be frustrating when the main control acts up, but there's usually a solution!
By Schindler lol
lol
probably, won $3,000 and only spent $9,000 in total. lol, that's my luck win anything and something immediately costs me triple. 🙄
okay. have a great Friday!
Hate those units
I feel you on that, units can be a pain sometimes.
l would sell him a new system not a very good track record on that system 2000
I agree system 2000s are suck ass. Specially the oil fired ones. Oh, they’re terrible.
why? best thing out there
Why?
@@PipeDoctor well, I haven’t worked on one in a long time from when I were remember they very hard to work on very hard to clean
Just because you don’t understand them doesn’t make them bad, could be just a terrible technician
@@whodat1473 you’re an idiot
Least you got lucky it’s gas fired. The oil ones are terrible. Oh my God.
I appreciate the insight! Gas does seem to have its advantages.
👍✌
hi