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What your dad referred to as "jack" studs are actually cripple studs. The "jack" studs are the studs supporting the header across the top of the window - also known as shoulders. The studs that are next to the jack studs are "king" studs.
@@Whole_Entire The original window had no proper load bearing header, 0:21, and no jack studs. It is a non-load bearing wall, presuming the original install was correct. Which means the big install needed no header up to 8'. A temp wall is always a good idea even for large openings in non-load walls, for cracking drywall and max caution.
I really appreciate the detail in this video. Thank you so much. We accidentally got a window that is 1" too wide and too tall, so this is pretty close to exactly what I needed to know.
I am curious about the choice not to flash around the opening, especially the bottom and sides up about 6-10” , completely covering the wood . Also not using a runoff angle on the bottom wood to insure no water would be tempted to spill inward along the bottom.
How were you able to lift this heavy window up? I got a window delivered from Lowes for a very similar size today. It is incredibly heavy. I just need to install it on the first floor but it is still too heavy to lift.
The information was very helpful, I just wish we saw some of the actual work. Definitely some code differences between here and there but still lots of useful information.
Thanks so much for watching, I saw the same window at Lowes on Clearance for 318 and lumber should be to much maybe 100-150, it's labor that would cost a lot if you don't do it yourself. I'm not 100% sure about needing a permit I don't think you need one for a project like this but double check before you get started where you live:) Hope the info helps and sorry for my late response.
Hello, any chance that you could do another video on how to raise window height and width in a mobile home. ( Our trailer only has 89" ceilings and all the window are so low!!!) HELP
Appreciate you taking the time, but even with all that time you didn’t show some of the interesting stuff..like actually getting the window in. And I’m no carpenter, but I can tell you should have an extra jack on each side and probably an extra king too. And the header looks too small.
Are you guys professional carpenters ? The exterior trim at windows perimeter, what a mess of the siding. Caulk is a sealer not a fixer. When using spry foam . Tape off the window jamb to protect from foam. Much easier clean up. And foam gets inserted into gaps. Not against the gaps. Roofing material is NOT a vapor barrier which is needed on exterior walls. I hope people are not doing as you are showing. Too many wrongs to explain here.
Do you know if this kind of window have required side to be up? I got a custom window just like this from Pell. I can tell which side should face outside, but can't tell which side should be up. I would assume the bottom side should have weeping holes but with the packaging, it is hard to see. And what kind of screw do you recommend to use to drill into the two sides to mount it? Do I just drill holes on the two sides? Or is there a plastic cover that I need to take off?
On the outside of the window see if there is water drain slits, if the slits are only on 1 edge, put those water drain slits on the bottom and that give you the direction for the window. If your window has water drain slits on both sides then it's universal so you could install it anyway you like. It would depend how you prefer to unlock your latches. Now with that said also check for the top and bottom I have small plastic/vinyl inserts at the bottom that can pull up for cleaning so see if you have those and if it's only on one side that would be your bottom. For install yes I would pre-drill 2-3 holes on each side and then screw in some nice screws to make it nice and tight and flush so the screw heads don't interfere with closing the window. Hope the info helps.
You really should let any viewers know that you are not professionals and are NOT doing the framing per code. The IRC building code requires 2 jack studs supporting each side of the header fir any window or door opening 60" and wider. As others have commented, your header is clearly under sized and not per code. You need to include a disclaimer with a video like this so others hopefully will not make all the same mistakes you did.
Sorry to criticise man but you talking the entire way through this lengthy video made it difficult after a while to tolerate. If possible, next time, you could insert some punchy text
Don't Forget To Grab Your Manscaped Lawnmower 4.0 and other Stocking Stuffers
Manscaped is having a Cyber Monday Sale through the end of today 11/29 for 25% off and Free Shipping, after the 29th it'll go back to
20% Off + FREE Shipping with my link here @Manscaped: www.manscaped.com/tips
Your video skipped major steps. Totally garbage. Seek a new profession
What your dad referred to as "jack" studs are actually cripple studs. The "jack" studs are the studs supporting the header across the top of the window - also known as shoulders. The studs that are next to the jack studs are "king" studs.
That should have had two or three kings and a couple of jack studs. Not 1 and 1. Also, that header is way too small.
There’s a a 4x6 lol
Non-bearing walls need no header up to 8' width. I didn't watch the video in detail to confirm this is non-bearing, but presumably is.
@@TheRayDogit certainly is load bearing, that’s why the temporary wall was set up.
@@Whole_Entire The original window had no proper load bearing header, 0:21, and no jack studs. It is a non-load bearing wall, presuming the original install was correct. Which means the big install needed no header up to 8'. A temp wall is always a good idea even for large openings in non-load walls, for cracking drywall and max caution.
I really appreciate the detail in this video. Thank you so much.
We accidentally got a window that is 1" too wide and too tall, so this is pretty close to exactly what I needed to know.
You did a great job of explaining step by step your attention to detail is great.
Nice framing and lumber grading. Your header is not big enough for the span considering the snow load that is prevalent in Colorado. Keep at it!
Very informative & helpful😊
Wow, this is a awesome work! It definitely encourages me to try on my own window as well
Thanks so much for watching, I hope you have a great day:)
I am curious about the choice not to flash around the opening, especially the bottom and sides up about 6-10” , completely covering the wood . Also not using a runoff angle on the bottom wood to insure no water would be tempted to spill inward along the bottom.
How were you able to lift this heavy window up? I got a window delivered from Lowes for a very similar size today. It is incredibly heavy. I just need to install it on the first floor but it is still too heavy to lift.
That brick mouding could have just sat ontop of the siding and made this a whole lot easier and more water tight
The information was very helpful, I just wish we saw some of the actual work.
Definitely some code differences between here and there but still lots of useful information.
No flashing tape on the new sill.???
Very detailed! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching:) Have a great day
Such an awesome job! Very detailed explanation. How much would such a replacement cost? Also is a permit needed to enlarge a window?
Thanks so much for watching, I saw the same window at Lowes on Clearance for 318 and lumber should be to much maybe 100-150, it's labor that would cost a lot if you don't do it yourself. I'm not 100% sure about needing a permit I don't think you need one for a project like this but double check before you get started where you live:) Hope the info helps and sorry for my late response.
Hello, any chance that you could do another video on how to raise window height and width in a mobile home. ( Our trailer only has 89" ceilings and all the window are so low!!!) HELP
Awesome instructions!
Thank you for watching, have an amazing day:)
Appreciate you taking the time, but even with all that time you didn’t show some of the interesting stuff..like actually getting the window in. And I’m no carpenter, but I can tell you should have an extra jack on each side and probably an extra king too. And the header looks too small.
I just wish you showed the process with challenges and all with mistakes and solutions
The whole window install was a mistake. Do not follow this video.
Where did you get the new window?
I got that window off of Facebook Marketplace for free, but Lowes has the same one in white color for 318 or 348 dollars.
Are you guys professional carpenters ? The exterior trim at windows perimeter, what a mess of the siding. Caulk is a sealer not a fixer. When using spry foam . Tape off the window jamb to protect from foam. Much easier clean up. And foam gets inserted into gaps. Not against the gaps. Roofing material is NOT a vapor barrier which is needed on exterior walls. I hope people are not doing as you are showing. Too many wrongs to explain here.
No flashing, improper rough in sizing, no shimming, not enough foam insulation around window...etc
Amazing window.
Do you know if this kind of window have required side to be up? I got a custom window just like this from Pell. I can tell which side should face outside, but can't tell which side should be up. I would assume the bottom side should have weeping holes but with the packaging, it is hard to see. And what kind of screw do you recommend to use to drill into the two sides to mount it? Do I just drill holes on the two sides? Or is there a plastic cover that I need to take off?
On the outside of the window see if there is water drain slits, if the slits are only on 1 edge, put those water drain slits on the bottom and that give you the direction for the window. If your window has water drain slits on both sides then it's universal so you could install it anyway you like. It would depend how you prefer to unlock your latches. Now with that said also check for the top and bottom I have small plastic/vinyl inserts at the bottom that can pull up for cleaning so see if you have those and if it's only on one side that would be your bottom. For install yes I would pre-drill 2-3 holes on each side and then screw in some nice screws to make it nice and tight and flush so the screw heads don't interfere with closing the window. Hope the info helps.
@@TipsNNTricks Thank you so much! I appreciate your help!
Missing sill pan
Window make model?
You really should let any viewers know that you are not professionals and are NOT doing the framing per code. The IRC building code requires 2 jack studs supporting each side of the header fir any window or door opening 60" and wider. As others have commented, your header is clearly under sized and not per code. You need to include a disclaimer with a video like this so others hopefully will not make all the same mistakes you did.
Sorry to criticise man but you talking the entire way through this lengthy video made it difficult after a while to tolerate. If possible, next time, you could insert some punchy text
🧇