Just an update, i just pulled the engine again and replaced the bearings on all rods. No Rod knock! all noises gone. I learned that you do not need to remove the wrist pin for cyd #2. Simply went from 4 - 3 - 2. Removeing the rod caps, turning the crank and then pulling the piston out of each. one by one to not get them mixed up. I then ran a bit of metal polish on the rod cap and crank. then cleaned with break clean. INstalled new Bearings and used assembly lube to crease the crank. Torqued to 33ftlbs. Cyd#1 i removed two and bought 3 cheap 5$ swivels 1/4 drive. Broke two of them. Make sure you have a magnet stick and patience. I pulled out #1 and reversed the process. THANK YOU for this video, i did not want to split the block.
Thanks. You've saved me some time. I have a rusty number 1 cylinder and thought I need a o'haul. It's been sitting around and it's a low milage import. So bearings should be fine. Hopefully I can do what you suggested and just hone that cylinder and new rings. Thanks a lot.
@@murphystreeter Why is that? Any way the engine is running fine and has plenty of compression. The rust is not protruding into the bore, so the ring just skips past the slight pitting.
That rattatat is the crank journal hammering the bearing into oblivion. Proceed with caution and careful inspection before spending money on the new parts. I've got my fingers crossed.
I've been wanting to rebuild an EJ257 engine I've had sitting in my garage for a long while. I rather not deal with machining anything cause the engine is still in good working order, and I'll sacrifice replacing the journal bearings for now, just to avoid splitting the block. But I do want to break it down enough to replace the rods, and pistons with something a little more hefty, and replace any other serviceable part within reason. The rods have been a big question mark in my head, on weather I can fish them out. Are they reasonably easy to fish out? Or is there a technique to it?
They come out easy. Needle nose plyers will get the clips out. Be sure to ball hone the cylinders and buy Hastings ductile iron rings. Watch my video on the EJ22E and you'll see that good rings will cut into the hone marks when they seat. That will eliminate oil burning. Look at the EJ22E heads to see there isn't carbon all over the combustion chamber like you find in the 253/257, etc.
hello! would you please help out on how can I able to remove the piston #2 I already remove the piston crank shaft but its hard to push out the piston itself out of the block.. what I can do next?
If the piston won't come out of the cylinder you can use some sandpaper to mill the ridge. Feel the top of the cylinder wall to see if there's a ridge. That make a cutter for cylinder ridges but it's expensive. I've never seen a Subaru with a ridge tho.
Thanks for the video, i just did a head gasket job on my outback, to find out i have cyl 1 rod knock and have to tear the heads off, didnt want to split the block glad i found your video, was it difficult to pop out only piston 2 or put back in? and did you have to polish the crank or use bigger bearings? Still running good? haha
Rod knock is bad news. Very hard to plastigage. Roll in the new bearings and say a prayer. Check rods for distortion on the big end. Might be good insurance to replace the rod that has a knock. Hastings ductile iron rings are a must to eliminate oil burning, blow by. Use multilayer head gaskets. Depending on the rod you're removing, you may have to push another piston out. Good luck bud!!
@@murphystreeter By rod knock i mean nice rattatatat at a constant power setting. i pulled the pan off and sure enough nice rice sized flakes, maybe about 14 of them, i grabbed each rod cap and wiggled them, and of course its #1 can move it back and fourth about 1 mm so spun bearing is the proper term? surprised the car has lasted the 7000Km i have driven it with that noise. I really dont want to split the block so ill give this a shot.
@@murphystreeter There's nothing "wrong" with the rods, per se, other than they are 131.6mm long... I have an 01 2.5RS coupe with 120K. I think the HGs are going, so I was thinking if I threw some STi rods and pistons in there while I have the heads off I could boost it cheap. I'll already have the engine out, so a crossmember swap will be a cinch.
Should be in the video. Gotta have a 1/4" impact ball swivel and 1/4" extension. I think it's #4 that is the difficult one. It's a tight squeeze. Totally achievable. Check your decking with the new rods. Please reach out if there's anything I can do.
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Just an update, i just pulled the engine again and replaced the bearings on all rods. No Rod knock! all noises gone. I learned that you do not need to remove the wrist pin for cyd #2. Simply went from 4 - 3 - 2. Removeing the rod caps, turning the crank and then pulling the piston out of each. one by one to not get them mixed up. I then ran a bit of metal polish on the rod cap and crank. then cleaned with break clean. INstalled new Bearings and used assembly lube to crease the crank. Torqued to 33ftlbs. Cyd#1 i removed two and bought 3 cheap 5$ swivels 1/4 drive. Broke two of them. Make sure you have a magnet stick and patience. I pulled out #1 and reversed the process. THANK YOU for this video, i did not want to split the block.
Awesome job Noah!!! It's definitely a good way to break some tools but beats the hell out of a full tear-down.
Thanks. You've saved me some time. I have a rusty number 1 cylinder and thought I need a o'haul. It's been sitting around and it's a low milage import. So bearings should be fine. Hopefully I can do what you suggested and just hone that cylinder and new rings. Thanks a lot.
Your very welcome Jay. It makes me feel like I've contributed to the cause. Best of luck my friend.
The more you describe your engine, the more I worry that the crank has some damage to a rod journal
@@murphystreeter Why is that? Any way the engine is running fine and has plenty of compression. The rust is not protruding into the bore, so the ring just skips past the slight pitting.
That rattatat is the crank journal hammering the bearing into oblivion. Proceed with caution and careful inspection before spending money on the new parts. I've got my fingers crossed.
I've been wanting to rebuild an EJ257 engine I've had sitting in my garage for a long while. I rather not deal with machining anything cause the engine is still in good working order, and I'll sacrifice replacing the journal bearings for now, just to avoid splitting the block. But I do want to break it down enough to replace the rods, and pistons with something a little more hefty, and replace any other serviceable part within reason. The rods have been a big question mark in my head, on weather I can fish them out. Are they reasonably easy to fish out? Or is there a technique to it?
They come out easy. Needle nose plyers will get the clips out. Be sure to ball hone the cylinders and buy Hastings ductile iron rings. Watch my video on the EJ22E and you'll see that good rings will cut into the hone marks when they seat. That will eliminate oil burning. Look at the EJ22E heads to see there isn't carbon all over the combustion chamber like you find in the 253/257, etc.
@@murphystreeter Took note of everything. Thank you for the reply!
hello! would you please help out on how can I able to remove the piston #2 I already remove the piston crank shaft but its hard to push out the piston itself out of the block.. what I can do next?
If the piston won't come out of the cylinder you can use some sandpaper to mill the ridge. Feel the top of the cylinder wall to see if there's a ridge. That make a cutter for cylinder ridges but it's expensive. I've never seen a Subaru with a ridge tho.
Thanks for the video, i just did a head gasket job on my outback, to find out i have cyl 1 rod knock and have to tear the heads off, didnt want to split the block glad i found your video, was it difficult to pop out only piston 2 or put back in? and did you have to polish the crank or use bigger bearings? Still running good? haha
Rod knock is bad news. Very hard to plastigage. Roll in the new bearings and say a prayer. Check rods for distortion on the big end. Might be good insurance to replace the rod that has a knock. Hastings ductile iron rings are a must to eliminate oil burning, blow by. Use multilayer head gaskets. Depending on the rod you're removing, you may have to push another piston out. Good luck bud!!
@@murphystreeter By rod knock i mean nice rattatatat at a constant power setting. i pulled the pan off and sure enough nice rice sized flakes, maybe about 14 of them, i grabbed each rod cap and wiggled them, and of course its #1 can move it back and fourth about 1 mm
so spun bearing is the proper term? surprised the car has lasted the 7000Km i have driven it with that noise. I really dont want to split the block so ill give this a shot.
A new set of 4 rods is pretty affordable. $160 gets rods & pistons
Is it possible to replace the rods without splitting the block? I'd really like to avoid it if at all possible...
Yes. If you have to replace the rods, chances are that your rod journals have damage. Did you spin a rod bearing?
@@murphystreeter There's nothing "wrong" with the rods, per se, other than they are 131.6mm long... I have an 01 2.5RS coupe with 120K. I think the HGs are going, so I was thinking if I threw some STi rods and pistons in there while I have the heads off I could boost it cheap. I'll already have the engine out, so a crossmember swap will be a cinch.
Should be in the video. Gotta have a 1/4" impact ball swivel and 1/4" extension. I think it's #4 that is the difficult one. It's a tight squeeze. Totally achievable. Check your decking with the new rods. Please reach out if there's anything I can do.
Is it possible to do no 1 in the car?????
Yes but you have to have the impact style 1/4" swivel. It's a bitch to start the nuts. Gotta have a magnetic retriever.
I have never tried in cradle work. It's too easy to pull the engine
You have to have the pistons out