Thank you for posting this! Now I know how to get the Pistons out without having to split the block. I do have a question though, I am having a lot of oil consumption issues on my 06 SOHC Outback. Even though I have the engine already put back together and in the car, if I were to have done what you’ve done here, when I replace the rings or just the oil control right? I’ve been told oil control ring malfunctions are causing a lot of the oil consumption issues that I see.
Ok I can't be the only one that can't take these wrist pins out. What am I doing wrong? I even managed to take the clips out on both sides of the pistons but I can't tap out the wrist pin!!
I'm using my wife's account to respond to you. I'm doing the same thing on a 2001 legacy due to piston slap, where do you recommend I buy new pistons? Should I go to the dealer or buy aftermarket? Which aftermarket pistons do you recommend? Awesome video btw. Thanks, Dan
and thats how to ruin sleeves, pistons and pins, since the rods are scratching the sleeves when you turn it without the piston...and since you do such rude movements to take the piston out, far away from gently...
Pistons, rings, rods and pins were being replaced as part of a rebuild (probably the only reason you'd be doing this). The only difference from how Subaru would do it is the pin removal. They yank the pistons the same way. Not sure how else you'd get them out. And cylinders were being bored over so no, I didn't ruin anything. How delicate do you think those sleeves are?
Jeff Irvine well since its a complete rebuild, no problems at all in the disassembly, but on reassembly you will have to deal with the rods sliding on the brand new honed sleeves, i'd recommend you wrap the top of the rod with something like paper towels to serve as a bed, so when you turn the crank they will be sliding on paper. The hardness of the rod material could easily scratch the sleeve honing, which is cast iron, and sleeves are delicate parts, the honing i.e. is crucial to keep oil from going up, it's like an oil maze. that's why the honed sleeves have diagonal patterns. just becareful on the reassembly. and dust is something you dont want in your engine, so make it as clean as possible during the reassembly, flush the crankshaft oil galleries with thinner(a strong solvent) and an air compressor, flush the oil galleries of the block with thinner also with an air compressor, flush everything with compressed air, and iron or steel parts(like the crank), after being flushed, should be covered with a thin layer of wd40....just paranoid tips, since the perfection is acquired with some paranoid acts. I've seen people rebuilding engines on the ground of a garage, man, that hurts my heart. lol. peace! bye.
Thanks very much for taking the time to make this video. It explained a lot to me. I am in the process of redoing a 2.5 sohc.
Thanks Champ for taking the time to share this one.
I like the random screaming at 1:28 lol
Sounded so creepy!
Rape dungeon 😂😂
Very helpful. I'll be doing this tomorrow.
I love seeing something I don't know that saves me mucho tiempo!
Couldn't figure out how to get the wrist pins out. Most videos show the wrist pins coming out easy? Thanks for the tip.
thanks man helped alot
Haha, I hadn't even noticed that. It was mid-day and we have a ton of kids on our street always running around screaming outside.
I used a 1/2" drive 14mm hex for the piston pin plugs.
Thank you for posting this! Now I know how to get the Pistons out without having to split the block. I do have a question though, I am having a lot of oil consumption issues on my 06 SOHC Outback. Even though I have the engine already put back together and in the car, if I were to have done what you’ve done here, when I replace the rings or just the oil control right? I’ve been told oil control ring malfunctions are causing a lot of the oil consumption issues that I see.
Just use a long thin screwdriver. U should not have to hit it. Just push it out
Ok I can't be the only one that can't take these wrist pins out. What am I doing wrong? I even managed to take the clips out on both sides of the pistons but I can't tap out the wrist pin!!
Hey jet, could you use this technique for the h6 Subaru engine?
I'm using my wife's account to respond to you. I'm doing the same thing on a 2001 legacy due to piston slap, where do you recommend I buy new pistons? Should I go to the dealer or buy aftermarket? Which aftermarket pistons do you recommend? Awesome video btw.
Thanks,
Dan
How do get the pistons to come out far enough to grab onto ?
what was it u used ? 3/8" rod ...did it have a lip on it or was it just used to touch the edge and then hit by a hammer to knock wrist pin out
It was just a plain 3/8" rod with a flat end. The goal is to catch the edge of the piston pin.
So I take take you removed one wrist pin clip..this looks real easy..
There was a murder taking place during the recording of this video
Any experience with an FA20 block?
Do you know how different the pre 98 ej20(k) are to this? Struggle to find much info on them
This is how i removed the pistons out of my EJ20k
what year is that
2002.
ruined or damaged both pins, one with pliers, the other hit the ground. just kidding, you'll fix them
new pistons come with wrist pins. theres absolutely no reason to reuse them lol. idc if this was 2yrs ago
and thats how to ruin sleeves, pistons and pins, since the rods are scratching the sleeves when you turn it without the piston...and since you do such rude movements to take the piston out, far away from gently...
Pistons, rings, rods and pins were being replaced as part of a rebuild (probably the only reason you'd be doing this). The only difference from how Subaru would do it is the pin removal. They yank the pistons the same way. Not sure how else you'd get them out. And cylinders were being bored over so no, I didn't ruin anything. How delicate do you think those sleeves are?
Jeff Irvine well since its a complete rebuild, no problems at all in the disassembly, but on reassembly you will have to deal with the rods sliding on the brand new honed sleeves, i'd recommend you wrap the top of the rod with something like paper towels to serve as a bed, so when you turn the crank they will be sliding on paper. The hardness of the rod material could easily scratch the sleeve honing, which is cast iron, and sleeves are delicate parts, the honing i.e. is crucial to keep oil from going up, it's like an oil maze. that's why the honed sleeves have diagonal patterns. just becareful on the reassembly. and dust is something you dont want in your engine, so make it as clean as possible during the reassembly, flush the crankshaft oil galleries with thinner(a strong solvent) and an air compressor, flush the oil galleries of the block with thinner also with an air compressor, flush everything with compressed air, and iron or steel parts(like the crank), after being flushed, should be covered with a thin layer of wd40....just paranoid tips, since the perfection is acquired with some paranoid acts. I've seen people rebuilding engines on the ground of a garage, man, that hurts my heart. lol. peace! bye.
Jeff Irvine A rod small end wouldn't do anything to a sleeve that honing couldn't correct anyway.
Talk like preying