How To Change Discs And Pads On Mk1 Audi TT
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- Опубликовано: 2 янв 2020
- How to change front discs & pads on audi tt mk1
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You will require the following tools :
For removing wheels,
Jack, stands, 17mm socket and breaker bar.
For brakes,
Ratchet, 7mm Allen key, 18mm socket, flat and Philips screwdriver, large grips, wire wheel and brush.
Also, some non-metallic & copper grease.
Following the instructions in the video should cover all necessary things,
Always make sure you check your brake fluid levels before putting the lid back on, also check you put the retaining clips back on the calipers, easy to forget.
Please note that all videos are as a guide on how we would approach this restoration, please take care when doing it for your self, we take no responsibility for any work you undertake yourself 
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Whenever i am wrestling with my tt it always feels like a blessing to stumble upon a Parrott bros walk through
Cheers for this video mate, it helped no end today. My pal has a mk1 225bhp tt soft top in black, pretty much the same as mine. He's had the standard alloys done in a smoke grey colour and whilst we were following your vid and doing the pads and disks on the front today he painted his callipers in a vivid green paint, looks so cool! Keep up the great work fella! 😁👏🏻👍🏻
Glad it is being put to good use. That sounds like a wicked colour combo!! Do love green accents on a black or dark greys car 👌🏻 thanks for the on going channel support
Thank You! Very Helpful!
Appreciate the comment, thanks for watching
Showing her some real love there 😉👍
She needs it 😂
Great video. Will use as reference
Garage Buds thanks buddy
Parrot bro come thru again! Lost a pad today...not hard but nice to have a reference! Thanks!!
You got this! glad the video was of help :)
Great video
Thanks buddy
Great Vid!
Thank you
The caliper piston can be pushed back before removing the caliper with a screwdriver pushed between the old pad and disk and leaving the caliper to hang on the brake pipe is bad practice use a bungee cord/whatever to hang it off the spring.
Dennis B thanks for the tip Dennis, will do it that way in the future 👍🏻
@@TheParrottBros No problem, the TT is cracking little car with a few mods, keep up the good work and join the TT forum if you have'nt already.
Dennis B thanks Dennis, it’s certainly getting better with every thing I’m doing, looking forward to trying to meet up with some of the club guys this year :)
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
INP411 Nunez thanks buddyb
great video. Question: when putting in the the pads do you put them in the cylinder bracket and than push onto disc or into the other bracket first and than push the cylinder bracket over the pads? Not clear to me. thanks! Roy
Was just wondering how you fed the brake wear sensor through the caliper to the plug as its on passengers side
Hi Dominic. Another really nicely produced video. I notice that your headlight level sensor link arm appears to be snapped. Does this create an issue with codes being thrown up?
Steve Speck thanks buddy, yes it brings up a fault code on vcds and renders the system useless. Easy enough to replace with
Parts from eBay 👌🏻
👌👍
Hi
I bought front and rear discs, calipers and carriers for A4 B5. The car got written off so I am left with the parts.
I am thinking about buying a TT MK1 to install these parts. Could you please help me if they will fit if I send you the part numbers and photo ?
I just did my brakes today (and yesterday) for the first time ever..my extensive experience consists of changing the oil twice, oil filter twice, air filter once and cabin air filter once..and now the front brakes..right side took around 4 hours-ish including stops (I didn't really keep track of the start time) but that included figuring everything out, making 8 trips back into the house for nitrile gloves twice then the box of gloves the third time and socket set and actual pads and rotors and flashlight..stopped in the middle to re-watch this video and then watched Mr. Video watch Game of Thrones then watched something else then went back out to finish..today the left side took 1.5 hours going kinda slowly and got hung up on the wear sensor or whatever it is..stupid thing goes from impossible to budge to just sliding right off, plus this side had a busted rotor screw so it was a bit of work to get the wheel back on..of course it's been raining all day so I'm not sure if that effects the break in procedure..which I'm sure I didn't even really do right anyway..I expected them to be way more stiff..maybe I need to do the fluid too..I have a 180hp 2003 FWD TT Coupe..in Canada..
Glad that you had a go and achieved it, gotta be happy with that!! yeah could well need a fluid change if the pedal doesn't feel great, also the new brakes will take a little bedding in / using to get the full potential from them :)
Thanks for the video. I'd love to see one for the rears, showing handbrake disconnection and winding back the piston.
As with yours, the original retaining screw for the disks has sheared, Can I ask about the retaining bolt things you use to help line it all up, where did you get that?
Thanks for watching, I will be renewing the rears shortly so there will be a video to come, yes the disk bolt sheared by the previous owner, The retaining bolt was brought from eBay, search audi wheel hanger
@@TheParrottBros thanks brother, I shall get myself one ordered.
@@robertrawlins5278 I found a black plastic one in my trunk kit thing..
I've watched a few videos on doing brakes but never ventured myself...yet. i found some of the details missing when compared to other videos though i.e. do you need to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before trying to remove the caliper?
Also, is a wind-back tool required or is that only for the rears?
It is recommended to remove the reservoir cap when pushing any calipers back, fronts you can just squeeze back. Rears have to be would back ( clockwise wind back tool)
Hey Dom, silly Q hear me out. What holds the outer pad onto the caliper? What's stopping it from sticking to the disc once your foot is off the brake pedal? I've seen some cars have clips on the outer pad too
There is a retaining clip on the face of the Caliper, then when the pedal is released the Caliper gets forced away from the disc by the sliders
@@TheParrottBros I couldn't understand how that clip affects the pad, it looks like it just pushed the caliper on the holder.
Are the sliders spring-loaded in some way so they push back?
How hard is it to replace rear brake backing plate mine need replacing anyone done them
The front ones are do-able providing the bolts don’t snap, the rears you need to remove the hub to get them off and back on
Is there a video for the rear brakes?
There is not on my
Channel I’m afraid
So figuratively just put the pads in the caliper? Or literally put the pads in?
Exactly, just dragged out into a 10 min video 😆
Dude, no grease in the sliding pins, only silicone lubricant, this is important!
Happy myself with the brembo X-series drilled discs and yellowstuffs on standard 225 brakes.
I’ve had good results with yellow stuff pads in the past. Specially value for money wise as they come in a lot cheaper than competitors. Don’t do bad on track either.
The inside of my disc show similar wear to those taken off in this video. Is this a sign of anything that needs attention? Same tt mk1
Could well be that the Caliper sliders are seized, did you check the two sliders? Are they free and clean
@@TheParrottBros thanks Ill check when changing
Note: Some calipers are threaded and require caliper release tools to back the piston off.
Do the pads have a low pad wear sensor.
Yes they do
@@TheParrottBros Thanks, looks like bosch pads then 👍
Why is the caliper so rusty? mine looks like is made from some kind of alloy and there is absolutely no rust (15 year old TT)
A number of reasons, salt, years of using an acidic wheel cleaner, too many heat cycles etc. England winter salt is unforgiving
@@TheParrottBros You are right about the winter salt. We don't get any snow where I live,so maybe that is why. Thanks for your videos. Very helpful
@@gotze1772 Unfortunately sometimes in the uk they can grit the roads for 4-5 months depending on temps
Thanks for the great video, Dom. Just curious as to why you prefer to use non-metallic grease and not copper grease? Thanks mate.
You forgot to note that disc can become next to impossible to remove due to rust. LOL. Good video tho. Cheers
Thanks, I have had also the same issue with wheels when they have been refurbished or left on the car for many years, that's why I have a large rubber mallet for just a job
@@TheParrottBros wont happen with rubber. I tried everything. what worked? Put a torch on it for 5 min. let rest for 2 min. One hammer hit on the back and shabam. Done. Glad I can help you after all the help you gave me:)
Blinding video
Thanks buddy