Sellita SW-200 Service ETA 2824
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2020
- Service of a COSC rated Sellita SW-200 movement, this movement is almost identical to the ETA 2824 movement.
This movement is planned to go into an ebay parts project watch that I will be making a video on.
Music: www.bensound.com
![[EN] ETA or Sellita movements? Do you know what are they and what are the differences?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/P6IauhuBhvQ/mqdefault.jpg)
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Sellita makes good stuff! Always have. Many thousands of ETA movements were built by Sellita and stamped ETA. Many ETA movements were made ornate by Sellita. Now that the Swatch Group no longer allows their movements to be used in watch brands not owned by them, Sellita will now get the recognition they’ve always deserved.
What a insightful and interesting way to look at it. Great info.
Yes they do, i really love this movement.
I thought ETA 2824-2 was older than Sellita
That movement is gorgeous! Thanks for the in depth look and breakdown!
This little mechanic inside is awesome. It's sad that so many people have no fun seeing such a little technical wonder. They say its only a cheap mass production Sw 200 or eta 2824. Whats the Problem? It works great and it looks great. So many people are not able to own a watch with a sw 200 elabore better classified calibre. They would happy to take a look between a glas bottom.
Great video. I watched it about 20 times then replaced the keyless works with new parts on a friend's TAG Heuer Aquaracer that hadn't been right for ages. Thank you.
Great video! You make it look so easy…
Exceptional skill!
Great job!!
Amazing to see this, so careful
Appreciate the nice and crisp video. My Zodiac Super Sea Wolf with it’s garbage STP died. I decided to do a swap in replacement with the SW200. Now, I’m trying to resurrect that STP which is essentially a copy of the 2824/SW200. This will certainly help. Thanks!
Thanks I’m glad you found it help. I’ve found the STP doesn’t tend to last long and they get excessive wear to most parts within a year or so. The down side being that the replacement parts are often more expensive than a complete movement.
@@timebanditwatches3249 It wasn't a watch I used, only took it out to wind once every month and one day the crown jammed and rotor spun somehow destroying the mainspring.
Hhahahahahahahahahaha
THANKS for posting this! Would love to know what lubricants on what points, mainspring barrel service, what amplitude this should be running at. Have one running at 282 but still keepeing crazty time with a drift of -70/+40 seconds that can't be regulated out so it's time for me to do a service on it, one of my favorite watches so this video is ENORMOUSLY helpful, particularly the warning about the reverse thread, fragility of hacking lever, and two springs on keyless works! Thanks again for sharing your experience!
Dismantling a movement like this would be easy peasy... Putting it back together is a whole different story 😂
The first few times I worked on these or the eta version I definitely took lots of photos and had the service manual to hand.
As long as you don't end up with extra parts😄
Enjoyed that. I'm considering the acquisition of a clifton club baume et mercier which uses this movement.
Thanks, it’s a good movement and you should be able to get is serviced at any reputable watch makers.
Thanx for sharing the service with us. I just bought an Escapement time Longines Conquest homage with pt5000 movement in it. My plan is to use the watch until the pt5000 movement dies(probably less than a year), than replace the movement with an SW200-1 movement. Looks like it won't be hard to make the switch later.
What mekes you think the PT5000 will fail?.
@@JonTheComputerDoctor The weak spot on this movement is reported to be the keyless works. Winding on this movement becomes stiff after a period of time. The ratchet wheel also gets stripped occasionally. This movement needs to be wound carefully and just enough to get it started. Let the automatic works wind the watch. Maybe I will get lucky with the movement. So far it has been ok. I rarely if ever wind it.
I am soon changing companies and will work on the SW200 quite a lot. Thank you for the run through, it will help me get prepared. I was wondering which oils you use since the lubrication seems to have been done off camera?
I used a combination of 9010, D5 and 9415. All by Moebius.
Thanks for the informative vid! I have a question about the date ring. I removed it to get a the keyless works to fix a stem that won't engage (which it still doesn't). Putting it back together, I'm having trouble figuring out what keeps the date wheel on the movement. There doesn't seem to be anything holding it down or providing tension to hold it place that I can see. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I'm getting ready to do a service on my sellita sw200 movement in next week or 2 and I see on the tech sheet for the sellita recommends using fixadrop on the keyless works.when you reassembled this movement did you treat the keyless works with fixadrop or is that not actually needed being that its a thicker grease(8300)used on the keyless works compared to the 9010,9415 and the D-5 used on the train wheels,jewels and whatnot?I've e only used fixadrop on the pallet on the few movements I have serviced so far so thats why I'm asking.
Great Video - thanks. So what's the difference between a COSC rated Sellita SW-200 and a normal (Basic) rated Sellita SW-200 Movement?
Hi, nice video, I have this watch Tissot T-Tempo T060.408.11.031.00 with a 2824-2 COSC and I was wondering the time intervals for general revisions are longer or shorter for COSC certified mechanisms?And the second question would be: after the overhaul the mechanism should be regular?And the third and most important question would be: after all this process (very necessary by the way) for such a mechanism will the accuracy be the sameThanks a lot.
many thanks for this video, I have a Ball Engineer skin Diver 2, The winding gear is shreaded, I am replacing it myself, MY movement is a SW200, I want to upgrade the movement to the sw200-1 spec, Do you happen to know what gears I need to replace? Can I ask.... Why did you strip down and rebuild this brand new movement? was it just to make the video?
Thanks! My Sellita quit after 6 months and I'm wondering if it's a good time to replace it with an ETA. Or just live with my 4R35 and 2 other 4R36s? (And 2 nh35s)
Great Video Thank you! Just a quick question, would it be possible to let me know where you ordered the COSC rated Sellita 200 / 210 movement please? The highest Grade I found so far is Special / Elaboré. Thank you in advance! 😁
It was more luck that one came up for sale, keep looking on the common sale sites and they pop up from time to time.
Nice and clean well done 👏 Sir ! Wish I could have such a steady hands like you 👍, what a cool video ! Please if you see my questions please response when you can Sir ! All the best for your nice job wish I was near where you are have few watches for servicing and it’s always a pain to send it to AD them he had to send it to the watch maker 300 Km away from where I live 😫! All the best Mr Watch maker 💯🔝
Thank you for the great video! How has it been performing? Any issues with the ratchet wheel/ winding mechanism?
Thanks, it’s been working flawlessly, it’s keeping better time than any other watch I’ve got. And so far no issues with the winding mechanism.
@@timebanditwatches3249 Very happy to hear it. Excellent choice of dial too I love the explorer!
I have an Oris Big crown pointer date that has a modified SW200-1 in it and it will no longer run. I can set the time and the date just fine but the winding has almost no resistance and the rotor rotates a lot more freely than when it did when the watch functioned properly. How could i go about troubleshooting this?
Is the metal used for the movement stainless steel or do they ever use Titanium or something more advanced?
Great content! What camera set-up do you use for your videos?
Thanks, I’m using a Nikon D750 and a Nikon 105mm macro lens along with some lighting and a tripod.
I fear that the laser printed ETA movements you mentioned MAY be Seagull movements that have been made into fake ETAs. I've bought two ST2130 movements online only to have them show up with ETA branding etched into their mainplates. I also own watches with actual ETA movements, and these are all stamped, not laser etched.
That’s an interesting point, I’ll have to look into this for future reference thanks.
@@timebanditwatches3249 there’s an eBay seller right now advertising Seagull movements but showing the ETA logo. When asked about this, he replied with an utter nonsense answer.
Hi! Thank you for this video. What a screwdriver you use, with plastic body? I like it )
Back in the early days watch movements were adjusted for temperature by means of a blued steel balance spring and bi metallic balance which had to have its spring manipulated and screws correctly located or added/ removed on the balance in order to work properly. Nowadays metallurgy has practically solved this problem and movements marked "adjusted to temperature" are not really adjusted at all. Of course, there existed middle temperature error in these old movements. But how about positional error? Does dismantling and reassembling these modern movements effect these errors or has modern manufacturing solved this? Just curious.
Oh, and a brilliant presentation. Many thanks.
From what I understand, as you pointed out, modern components are made using different alloys which make up for the temp error in the same fashion modern manufacturing practices mean the components are also more accurate. Some amounts of material are removed from the underside of the balance wheel to poise it from the factory and they don’t change.
@@timebanditwatches3249hi Sir , have got a question for you about day doesn’t changed exactly at midnight only 5/7 minutes after is this bad ? Sellita calibre 300-1 and 330-2 bought COSC certified models/ same Brand, another thing is I’ve a 2824-2 ETA when I’m giving more than 15 plus turns I can feel the rotor spinning is this ok or bad ? Had a Seiko with the 6R45 i think it’s the one with 70 hours power reserve in an Alpinist model , when I give some turns and it’s starting moving when I screw in the crown I feel that it’s giving power to the main barrel is this correct or bad the watch is less the 3. /4 months almost no time in my wrist 😳.
Thank you for sharing this very cool video ! All the best 👍
Could this be used to replace a Sallita 200-1 in my Tag Heder WAN2110?
How many years between services after you have finished? Should new Sellita movements be serviced before use? I know most simply install a new movement into a watch.
I normally service my watches every 5 - 6 years but you could probably push that to 8 - 10 providing the watch is still running well. They should be okay from the factory but you can’t say how long it’s been sat in a wear-house for so it would be a good idea to give it a fresh service for peace of mind. Some may disagree.
@@timebanditwatches3249 Thank you! New subscriber.
How different is the Oris 754 pointer date from this movement? Any chance you can show one? Thanks
How can I tell which quality-version I have in a SW330-1 (GMT) - it is so accurate (-1/+4 seconds/ day on wrist) that I wonder if it is a Premium version, not just the plain Special (Elabore) version I presumed was installed - probably not a COSC as no certificate.
I cannot tell if it has a Nickel balance wheel, or the tell-tale Glucydur one used in the top 2 versions, and the engravings probably indicate Refined finishing.
It also has DM19.2/533 etched in gold next to the balance wheel but may be something to do with the custom gold etched rotor or other upgrades for the micro brand.
Why no grease on the motion works or calendar works parts?
Everything was oiled/greased as per the manufacturers recommendations, it’s just some if it didn’t get recorded or it was a second take and I didn’t wanted to over oil. I’m still getting used to recording these.
Great video. Where did you asource the movement?
It was supplier via an eBay seller in Switzerland.
I have a bad movement in my Hamilton 694-A would this movement be a good fix to get the watch ticking again?
The Hamilton 694-a is based on a different movement from ETA (2472), I don’t think these have the same dial feet locations so would not be a suitable replacement.
How do you know how to reassemble it? Diagram, or numbered boxes? Or just by years of experience?
Bit of both, to start with is was very much a case of take photos as I go but I’ve done enough of these now that I know how they go back together. Thanks.
Is automatic franework device both of the them are the same?
How do you regulate it for cosc standards?
Hello sir. How does it sound when you hand wind it?
Did you take apart the cannon pinion?
Is there away to modify this model to make it hand winding?
Hello, where can i buy this movement?
This was purchased through eBay from Switzerland.
My watch repair LEVER automatic 25
Plz reply me
Bro better sw200 or caliber 80 in mido tribute?