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The $1500 Mini-ITX Gaming PC Build - Assembly Guide feat. SilverStone's SG13 and Corsair's Hydro H60
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- Опубликовано: 15 апр 2020
- In this video, I go step-by-step through the process of building a liquid-cooled mini-ITX Gaming PC, using the ultra-popular SilverStone SG13 case and Corsair Hydro H60 120mm liquid cooler.
Note I also have updated video guides showcasing the new SilverStone PF120 cooler that I recommend in place of the H60, as well as a full cooling optimization guide:
PF120 installation guide: • SilverStone PF120 CPU ...
SG13 optimization guide: • Optimizing Liquid Cool...
Here's the full list of components used in the video, with substitutions made for products that are no longer available, updated 8/12/20:
(1) Case: SilverStone SG13 - amzn.to/3epJK6G
If sold out, go with the white version of the SG13: amzn.to/2WGYTK7
(2) Cooler: Corsair Hydro H60 - amzn.to/2RF1YaF
Note that I now recommend the SilverStone PF120, which is much better for the same price: amzn.to/3aGjhie
(3) Optional upgraded Cooler Fan for Corsair cooler: Noctua NF-A12x25 - amzn.to/2V7Jge3
(4) CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X - amzn.to/2RCXXni
Note: I used the Ryzen 5 3600, but with the liquid cooler, the 3700X is a great upgrade
(5) Motherboard: MSI B450I Gaming Plus AC - amzn.to/3aCKvX7
(6) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 Super KO - click.linksynergy.com/deeplin...
(7) Power Supply: SilverStone SX500-G - amzn.to/2RH8MVw
Note: I used the SX650-G, but this system doesn't need that much power, so you can save some cash with the 500W unit.
(8) Power Supply SFX Adapter: SilverStone PP08 - amzn.to/2VtZ7m7
(9) RAM: Patriot 2x8GB Viper Steel DDR4-3200 - amzn.to/3f4tM2s
(10) SSD: Sabrent Rocket Q 1TB - amzn.to/3cnevrd
(11) OS: Windows 10 - amzn.to/2KbBhGl
Excellent video. I like that you stick with the SG13 for a lot of the videos. I have the case too so your videos help a lot!
Thank you for this video! I've never built a pc by myself before but following this I was able to build my sg13!
That is fantastic! Congrats on your first build!
very details guide, thank you man. keep up with the good work
Thank you, glad it helped!
Going to do my first-ever build soon, thanks for posting this!
Good luck!
Thank you so much! I’m planning to build in the sg13 towards the end of the year when the next gen parts are hopefully going to come out. Really want to build and forget about it, and not need to change anything for many years in the build (except maybe gpu). Gonna be going with the l12s but it’s great to see you do a build video of what it would be like with the AIO liquid. Thank you! New to your channel and your content is true quality
Glad I could help, and thanks for the positive feedback!
Keep posting the quality videos!
I just completed a build using the SG13 but I used the H55 and 3600x instead. It’s running great!
Thanks! Did you go with intake or exhaust? And what GPU did you use?
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Wow, sorry for the late reply. I have the fan set up as an intake (pulling air into the case). I used the Asus TUF GAMING OC GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB Video Card.
The computer is still running great. Thinking about upgrading the memory from 16GB to 32GB and increasing the storage as well.
Just booted ‘er up! Looks great and thanks for the video
Enjoy the new build!
Nice video! I'm building my SG13 PC in a couple of days, got the H60 too!
Nice! One thing you may want to do is buy an Arctic P12 PWM fan for your H60: amzn.to/2XgPyb3. To learn how it will improve your build, check out this fan shootout video: ruclips.net/video/W2Zis8RjcX8/видео.html
Really enjoying your delivery. I have just started looking at how to build a Mini-ITX pc with an RTX 2070 gpu
Thank you.. looks like this will be my build.. NCase M1 to long of a wait.
thanks for the help with this one! bought this case and looking at different setups for it. going to be buying parts over time, but my main scoping was for the graphics card space mainly. may base my build off this one all together.
GPU market is in flux right now. All new high end cards announced so far will not fit. Only RTX 3070 direct from nvidia, which hasn't launched and may never. Partner versions are all too long. What's your budget?
@@TheTechBuyersGuru ~ i'm pretty flexible with my expense tbh, with living down in Australia I see prices are pretty dear as it is. I'm willing to go maybe 1.5k :) but I always like to keep in mind that if I put a little more cash aside I can always go higher. always open for build suggestions too.
What I would do is wait until the 29th to see if any RTX 3070 cards actually launch at 10.6" or shorter. But keep in mind that when they launch, they won't actually be available.
By the way, if you want to build over time, one thing you might consider is going for an Intel CPU, which has built in graphics unlike the Ryzen CPUs. So you could pick the Core i7-10700K or 10700, which are expensive but great gaming CPUs. You can then use the PC without a video card until something actually hits the market that will fit in this build. And between those two, I'd actually pick the 10700 despite the lack of overclocking because it's plenty fast at stock, and can be tweaked to be nearly as fast as the 10700K without official overclocking support.
Just make sure not to buy the 10700KF or 10700F, which have no graphics.
Just wanted to add that I loved this guide - it made for a great project during quarantine! I made a few substitutions:
- Noctua NH-L12S as the CPU cooler (from your other recent Mini ITX video)
- MSI RTX2070 Super Ventus GPOC video card (because it was in stock at MicroCenter)
So far, it's killing everything I've thrown at it with little customization. Thanks again!
Glad to hear it, thanks for reporting back on your build! Was the Super Ventus a tight fit in this build? While its length of 10.1" is not a problem, its height of 5" is quite close to the maximum allowed in the SilverStone SG13 (5.11"). Was it able to be installed through the front of the chassis? Did you encounter any difficulty?
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Good question! The Super Ventus was a tight fit, but not too difficult. Instead of a straight slide in through the front, I had to come in at a diagonal from the *top*, level out (poking through the front), then back up over the slot, and finally down. I had to be a bit more mindful of cable management, since there's so little room between the card and the top of the chassis. All told, I found the Nactua low-profile cooler to be a bit more of a hassle, but that may be my own lack of practice - this was my first build in 20 years!
That makes perfect sense - luckily, it's a bit shorter than reference - if the Ventus had been 10.6" like all reference cards, you couldn't have done that fancy maneuver! Sorry to hear you had trouble with the Noctua cooler - honestly, it probably comes down more to working in a small chassis than anything with the cooler itself. It's actually the best low-profile cooler not only in terms of performance, but ease of installation too. That doesn't mean it's *easy* though!
used a powercolor 5700XT and pretty much built the same thing. couldn't be anymore happier. at first by following some other pages I used l9a and then from temperature i understood it was a bad idea. sold the l9a got a corsair H60. now the PC is just awesome.. thanks a lot for your detailed guide. this was my first build and your detailed steps helped a lot.
So glad you were able to use this guide to get your system dialed in. Yeah, the L9i is a nice cooler, but not for a high-performance gaming PC. Going liquid is a good choice in this system.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru thank youfor replying ☺️
Man I wish I had this video a month ago, makes me want to rebuild it!
Well, the good news is that this is a platform you can rebuild over and over again. I've literally had half a dozen systems in here.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru it's so challenging because the default airflow with closed case is horrible :)))
My first PC has a 3700x/2070s and so far it's been killing games. I have a noctua fan too but it's the Nh-u12a one but tbh all the Noctua fans are excellent. Great video btw.
Awesome combo! If you're using the NH-U12A, you must have a full-size case, right?
@@TheTechBuyersGuru ye I got a NZXT510 as I wasnt sure what to buy tbh and I know it's a decent case at a good price in the UK
Thank you so much for these build videos, I have been obsessing over this case for about six months!!! I saw on the website that you are only recommending the MSI 2X out of all the RTX 3070s. Is the Zotac Twin Edge way too tall? Don't we gain a little extra space if we remove the hard drive tray on top? Also, I am guessing the FE fits in here nicely too (good luck ever getting that though lol)?
You know, a good way to tell if something is mounted correctly is if it wiggles. If you can move the block, it's not on.
I'm thinking of downsizing my Nano S build and have watched countless videos on all possible build and cases, and yours are definitely the ones I like the most! Honest, down to earth yet well produced. Thank you!
Possible choices right now are this SG13, the Metis Plus, QB One and Core V1 (last 2 being a bit too big maybe). I mean Ideally I would love a Sliger SM550 or something of the sort, but man are they pricey. I can't really justify spending 200€ on a case. I might take a look at Aliexpress, there seem to be some interesting options since I like the mini tower shape more than shoebox.
Hey, thanks, glad you liked the video! The SG13 is definitely the best shoebox of the ones you listed. The Sliger (www.sliger.com/products/cases/sm550/) is in a different class all together, and while I really like mini towers too, there are two problems with them:
(1) they need a PCIe riser cable, which adds $50 to the price on its own. Hence the overall price that's often 4x more.
(2) they often place glass right against the video card, which is terrible from a functional design standpoint. No matter how much you like the look of that, avoid it at all costs. You have to go with a mesh version or don't do it at all.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru I noticed that too, some of the fancier cases prioritize form over function, while I'd rather have a basic but optimized SG13 than a pretty and expensive hotbox. The biggest contender right now is the Metis Plus, which is kind of an in-between: mini tower shape but compact, no riser needed, and around the same price as the SG13. I'm just not too convinced of the window and PSU placement.
I like the orientation of the metis, turning shoebox on its side, but ventilation is terrible. Vent behind motherboard? Strange. PSU pulling in air from interior, counter to exhaust fan? Bad idea when front vent could have been used. Tiny top vent for large video cards? Odd. Also, there's no way you'd keep a cpu cool. Basically, nice concept, terrible execution.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru all valid points, too many compromises for a relatively better look. Actually not even compromises as much as weird choices. I guess I will embrace the shoebox and pick the SG13! Prices seem to be rising these days, just need to wait for them to settle down then I can commence the downsizing. Thanks for your help, I'm looking forward to new videos!
Hi guys, i just switched my Msi RTX 2070 Super ventus OC for the Msi RTX 3070 Ventus OC, if your interested ill send you some photos of it, but this takes some skill as the card is alot bigger than the 2070, almost had to use lubricants ... ;-) but now its in and im so happy, rear bracket has to be demounted and fitted directly in the SUGO 13, front AIO has to be removed, and then you fit in the 3070 and screw it back on the bracket inside the SUGO13 using a small magnetized screwdriver ..
Thanks for your awesome guides
Thanks for sharing your feedback, I have been wondering if the RTX 3070 Ventus OC would fit, and after examining photos of it prior to it being available, I decided it wasn't something I could recommend without knowing for sure. It sounds like it's probably a bit tight for some people's tolerance, but you got it to work!
Great videos, happy to subscribe. Always thought Reed Richards should start making youtube tech vids.
Thanks for subbing, love the comment!
Heya, thanks for this - put everything together last night. Got a few recommendations for videos like this...
- There are a couple things you had that weren't in the parts list that made your life easier: 1 - thermal paste, 2 - the wiring harness you use for LED / Reset switches, would be awesome to see those in the list
- Given the wiring challenges in the small space, it might be advisable to put Memory in AFTER you harness everything up
- Add an overlay that explains to put the fan as intake since you assemble it the other way (also a photo or image showing what that looks like would rock!)
Last but not least, my assemble had a non-start. System comes on, I see all fans spinning, but nothing on video and doesn't boot. I've reseated everything except the CPU. The video card fully spins up but then drops to one fan on low. The lights are on on the cooler. What would be your next troubleshooting step? (Since there is no case speaker so I don't get my telltale beeps!).
Thanks for the suggestions. You may find the follow-up video on fan placement helpful: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html
As for your non-start situation, that's almost always caused by the RAM not being seated. Pull out both sticks, reseat only one of them, and power it on. The other thing you should double-check are your power supply cables. Perhaps the dual 4-pin cable for the CPU isn't fully seated, or the 24-pin isn't in either.
Also make sure you have your monitor connected to your video card, not the motherboard.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Awesome, thanks for the quick reply. I buy a video card that is half the price of the system then plug my monitor into the motherboard /facepalm. I hadn't plugged both power cords into the video card - when I had my monitor plugged in right it told me that straightforward right on the screen! Everything works!
Glad you got it working, yeah, the monitor cable is a tricky one!
Hi. Thanks again for this video. I just had to replace the water pump and radiator and I was super happy to see that you updated your build with a different product. I prefer the current recommendation (the Corsair Hydro Series H60) over the previous (Silver Stone PF120). I hope the new product lasts longer, but was was smaller and easier to work with inside the small cavity. Anyway, much appreciated!
So I did it. Your video was super helpful. Thanks! It took me many, many hours for a number of reasons. The good news is that the system is up and running and it seems quite nice. Quiet too. The bad news is that I think the motherboard is bad; I can't get the bluetooth to function properly. I think I'll return it and wait for the motherboard that you used in your build. It will pain me to take it all apart, but I must have bluetooth.
Congrats on your mini-ITX build! But if Bluetooth is all you need and everything else is working, then just get a Bluetooth USB adapter: amzn.to/31U9bbc
Much easier than disassembling the entire PC and returning the motherboard!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Oh, tough choice. That might be the easiest thing to do. I'm trying to weigh the pros and cons. In your opinion, what does the Aorus offer over the MSI? I think Gigabye offers better software fan control, from what I've read, and I like the heat sink and top mount on the SSD. But these differences alone don't seem to warrant a tear down.
I like the Gigabyte more because it has ARGB fan controls (the MSI is limited to RGB, which this system doesn't use), plus a better port selection and that M.2 slot you mention. But I want to be honest with you: I've found that my M.2 drive gets smoking hot in that location, because it's on top of the chipset. While it used to be that rear-mounting SSDs was a bad idea due to lack of airflow, now I'm starting to doubt these front-mounted slots because PCIe drives themselves produce some heat, and chipsets are getting hotter as well. Ultimately, I can't really tell you what's best here until I somehow do a back-to-back comparison of a system with both a front- and rear-mounted SSD slot. Who knows, maybe that's actually something I'll do in the future!!!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks! I opted to tear down. Hope it's the right choice. Again, thanks for your guidance. I would never have done this without your videos.
Good luck! The Gigabyte board was literally sold out for six months until just this week. It's definitely a better overall board for a lower price, so I'm switching my recommendation back to it!
Great video and info! Slightly off topic but I'd like to build the above but using an external gpu..pls could you suggest a suitable motherboard that has thunderbolt 3 and an external gpu or caddy that I could use?
Great video and instruction. This is a little beast! If going with the step up program with EVGA and the 30 series looks like 11.2" any ideas on how to make that happen? Dremel or ?? Do you think your recommended PSU will be enough with the new card?
Yeah, that's a bit of a problem. Unfortunately, the Step Up program can't get around the fact that EVGA's shortest 3070 is 11.2" long. No way for that to fit. Nvidia's own Founders Edition is 9.5", but that will only be available direct from Nvidia. As for the power supply, I have to see what the 3070 actually pulls in terms of Watts. The 3080 pulls a good 85W more than the 2080 Super, with a 320W vs. 250W TDP, so I think Nvidia is underestimating what's actually happening here. I would estimate that the 3070 will pull 30W more than the 2070 Super. So I'd go with a 600W minimum, but a good choice would actually be the 650W unit shown in the video.
I have had an ATX PS in this case since 2015 with no issues. 5960x and a TITAN V.
That's a lot of power and heat in a small chassis. What cooler are you using?
Really enjoy your videos and picked up your recommended parts.
Only difference being that I went for the RTX 2080 Super, Corsair PF750 PSU and HyperX Fury 2x 16 GB RAM.
I was wondering about the orientation of the radiator, do you see it as a problem to have the hoses run past the GPU?
You aren't going to have many choices when it comes to the radiator orientation. They won't fit at the bottom, which would be optimal, they won't fit at top, which would be sub-optimal, and I'm pretty sure they won't fit against the side panel, as you won't be able to get the cooler in that way. But feel free to try!
Hello, love the content! Have you ever checked out the Cougar QBX, it's a budget ITX case. I'm planning to put my build in it. Cheers!
Thanks for the feedback! The Cougar QBX (amzn.to/36s3Z05) is a nice-looking case, but the layout is a bit dated. Lots of mounts for hard drives, a full-size ATX power supply, and an optical drive, but cooling is pretty limited. I think it would work well for a mainstream build, probably not so much for a high-end build.
Thank you for the article and video! Do you foresee using the B550 motherboard instead of the B450 causing issues? This will be my first build!
No issue at all. B550 is more expensive, that's the only drawback. Right now I'm swapping between the two in my guides depending on what's in stock.
Great Video!! I am looking to build a similar system but the PP08 adapter is out of stock in Canada, any alternative case/psu combo you recommend? I also like the Lian Li Tu 150, which PSU i can go with that?
Yeah, unfortunately the PP08 is sold out everywhere, and most other adapters don't offset the PSU, wasting space and limiting case airflow unnecessarily. For the Tu 150, you don't need an adapter as it's designed exclusively for SFX/SFX-L power supplies, and I'd recommend the SilverStone SX500-LG: amzn.to/2Yu0GTK
Nice build. I have never dealt with this case so I am genuinely asking (as I am planning a similar build) could you have gotten the cabling a bit more organized? Also can the H60's fan be swapped for a quieter one?
I would say no, you can't get the cabling more organized. There's a lot of it, and there's nowhere to put it. If you want a quieter fan, there are a lot of options. You should check out my shootout here: ruclips.net/video/W2Zis8RjcX8/видео.html
And honestly, you might just skip the upgrade step and go for the SilverStone PF120: amzn.to/2OBWFqL
Comes with an identical radiator, but offers ARGB and a much better fan for the same price. Learn more here: ruclips.net/video/qGOCk1S1WLs/видео.html
wondering if that SSD tray could mount some fans with some holes drilled in it. The top of the case is filtered, no?
20mm fan at the back of the case above the GPU, corner exhaust -- a little small but a tiny case. No need to filter the exhaust.
another fan on the back of the radiator to pull the air out of it and exhaust it over the components. This configuration intakes the fresh air through the radiator, it doesn't have much heat and immediately gets cooled again by the other fan and passed over the mainboard, past the GPU and over the CPU -- pretty useful configuration, makes a pressure system despite only having the space for 3 (maybe 4 :)) fans
An intake on top and I think you could run just about anything you wanted in it so long as the GPU is < 10 inches -- heatwise.
Another suggestion I would have is to get a 2 NVME slot mainboard so there's no sata cables running around. The front IO alone blocks a lot of airflow, so as few cables as possible. Most I would go sata wise is 1 under the mainboard, sata is just too many cables lol and they're all made of one of the greatest conductors of heat.
Heatsinks on the inside of tiny cases to expel the heat from the air into the sides of the chassis also do well in tiny cases.
I love the idea of this! Hopefully the 3060Ti won't be a nightmare to get for the new build that was posted.
I know you use the liquid cooler, but what are your thoughts on something like the Noctua NH-L9i? From what I am seeing on reviews, it has similar performance to water coolers.
Fingers crossed on the EVGA 3060 Ti XC actually arriving in the next month or so! As for coolers, unfortunately what you may have seen elsewhere regarding the NH-L9i definitely is not correct. It's a fine cooler, and I've tested it many times, but it's nowhere close to a 120mm AIO liquid cooler, and I do not recommend it for this build. See more info here:
AIO vs. low-profile coolers much larger than NH-L9i: ruclips.net/video/vPDBENpbzJ4/видео.html
Ultra-low profile test including NH-L9i: ruclips.net/video/eNDt9DKh13o/видео.html
liked for "case closed" haha. nice video and build
Glad someone enjoyed that pun!
Great Video, thank you. Can you shed some light on how you would connect the PF120 since the motherboard only has one CPU and one SYS Fan header? Do you power the pump with an SATA adapter or do you connect it to the cpu fan header?
You only need two fan headers with the PF120. It has one for the fan, one for the pump. I connect the fan to the CPU_FAN header and the pump to the system header.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thank you for the explanation
Great Video - definitely looking to put this together. Possible to do 2x16g ram instead of 2x8?
Yes you can! And I'd recommend the Patriot Viper Steel 2x16GB DDR4-3200 kit: amzn.to/2yIWUve. Remember, using high-profile RAM like this is only possible when using a liquid cooler, as shown in the video. Low-profile air coolers would hit the RAM. By the way, Amazon states that this RAM won't ship for weeks, but I know based on other readers and viewers that Viper Steel kits are shipping out every day to Amazon customers.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Would it be possible to upgrade it even more to Patriot VIPER Steel 64GB (2x32GB) DDR4 3200 ?
Could there be issues with space or performance?
Hi..great video. I'm about to build a sg13 build. I'm confused about the radiator fan...so do you fit the fan behind the radiator or Infront of it? So fan is closest to front of case then radiator etc? Confused as to why? Cheers
Learn more in my follow-up video here: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html
Is the pc loud while gaming? Nice video btw
It's incredibly quiet while gaming - check out benchmarks here: ruclips.net/video/RD2sKZiVEIc/видео.html. The key is to upgrade the fan on the H60 cooler. The standard fan is really loud, but by going with the Noctua NF-A12x25 (amzn.to/2YiHadg), you can make the system whisper quiet, and all you hear is the GPU's fans.
This is a great video. I am thinking about combing this case with the "Content Creation Build" by using an AMD Ryzen 9 3950X, ASUS ROG Strix X570-I, EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 Super XC Gaming with a SX700-PT SFX 700W (I assume I would need more power) ... Are there problems I should be careful of? Is this a stupid idea (feel free to be blunt) .. The reason for the change is i prefer this case design.
I would not recommend using the 3950X in this case. It is too small to support adequate cooling. As it is, a 120mm liquid cooler would be at its limit on a 3950X, and that's assuming great case airflow. Stay tuned for a review coming on the channel of a case that is 50% bigger and a much better choice for your system.
If you're building right now and can't wait, go with the Lian-Li TU150: amzn.to/2DJu3db
Just note that it's twice the volume of the SG13.
Hey, you decided me to do this build , thank for the tips,
do you think it would make sense to replace the Hydro H60 with a Noctua NH-L12S, basically is water cooling always the best solution ?
You can certainly use the NH-L12S with a Ryzen 5 3600, but if you want to use a Ryzen 7 3700X or higher, I would suggest liquid. And by the way, the liquid cooler that I recommend now instead of the H60 is the SilverStone PF120: amzn.to/2XqmM8D
Okay, I'm going to build it. Thanks for the helpful links. Question: did you change the air flow direction (outside to inside) when you changed the fan and its position on the radiator?
Oh, I should have read your comments below. You have it set to intake.
You'll probably want to check out this video: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Watched and liked. Thanks!
Thank you for making this awesome video, I wish I could order these parts but right now its currently unavailable. Should I wait for the parts or wait for the AMD 4000 and the Nvidia 3000s? Stay safe!
Glad you liked the video! While there has been a run on PC components due to the pandemic, prices on most ITX gear have stayed the same price or gone down, actually. For example, the SG13 case is at its lowest price in years: amzn.to/3fm9YHJ. And the SX500-G power supply is also a great price: amzn.to/2Yu5zwC. In fact, there isn't a single part in this build that has gone up in price since I posted the video, so perhaps you were just talking about PC components generally, and the biggest offender right now is ATX power supplies. The only issue with building this mini-ITX system today is that you'll have to wait on the motherboard. The one available model, the MSI B450I, is backordered about two weeks: amzn.to/3ddsDnt. Otherwise, though, you could have all your parts on hand in a few days.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thank you for the fast reply. That is a great news about the prices staying the same. I understand about the pandemic and the ATX parts being sold out. To be honest, I made a mistake and wrote a comments generally about the $2000 $2500 AMD gaming build. I had a few of your videos opened and made that mistake. Stay safe!
Yup, that White AMD Ryzen PC Build (ruclips.net/video/YqIPXHw35kE/видео.html) is unfortunately impossible to build right now. The white PSU and case can't even be ordered, the motherboard options are backordered, and the RTX 2080 Ti has gone up in price too. But one white case I really love is back in stock - the Cooler Master H500P: amzn.to/2zX5VBz. If you want a white build, that's a great way to start off, and then pick the rest of your parts based on your budget. I featured the grey version of that case in my $2500 Gaming PC Buyer's Guide: ruclips.net/video/bRB-sVYOgx8/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thank you! Right now I changed my mind and I'm going to plan to build this mini ITX. I have some few question about this 500w power supply. Will I be able to upgrade to nvidia 3080 RTX TI(?) sometime in the future with this power supply? I'm just bit worried about lacking more power and getting really hot. Thank you and stay safe!
If you want to upgrade to something like an RTX 3080 Ti, you should get the SX650-G power supply: amzn.to/2SDs0LQ. It will handle that, no problem.
First of all thanks a lot for this guide. I'm waiting for my motherboard to arrive to finally build my SG13 pc. I have a question regarding air cooling, since the guide focuses on liquid cooling.
I'll be using the NH l12s and a BeQuiet! Silent Wings 3. I should have no issue mounting the cpu cooler, but I'm a bit confused about the ideal positioning of the front fan/PSU fan.
On your cpu cooler tests, what orientation did you use? As in intake/exhaust for the front fan, and PSU fan facing upwards or down.
The L12S is an updraft cooler, so you want the PSU fan mounted down and pulling out for best results. The SW3 is a quiet fan, but it's not that great, especially for a poor-airflow scenario like you'll have in this case. I'd recommend the Arctic P12 if you haven't already purchased the SW3. Link: amzn.to/3b45yFU
Also, in case you're interested, I've done a full cooler shootout in this case including the L12S and several AIOs: ruclips.net/video/qGOCk1S1WLs/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru the p12 was also my first choice, but I was unable to find any locally. I chose the bequiet! since it was the only good brand fan I found here. All the rest were from unknown brands.
Also, fan mounted down means it is facing the cooler, right? And do I have to change some setting so it pulls out air?
Sorry for the noob-ish questions. It is my first pc
Understood on fans - the SW3 is very high quality, but you'll need to run it at max RPM to get any cooling out of it. The PSU fan always runs as an exhaust. If you point it down, it will pull air out of the case. If you point it up, it will pull air out of the surroundings.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru allright. I'll probably use your setup then until I get my hands on a 92mm for extra exhaust, since my semi passive PSU won't do that much.
The front fan is intake then, right?
Yes, must be intake, and yes, those zero-fan PSUs aren't quite as good for a system like this. I haven't done the 92mm mod myself, but a lot of people seem to think it's helpful in the SG13.
Great video. The SilverStone Technology SFX to ATX Power Supply Adapter in Black PP08B-USA is out of stock on amazon, though. Any alternatives? Thanks!
I know it's out of stock, and SilverStone is having trouble getting it restocked. The only option is to buy it from a third party seller on Amazon, which does double the price. Hopefully SilverStone will work this out soon, I made them aware of the problem a while ago.
Hi. I'm going to build my first pc (sff too!) and your videos seem extremely helpful. However, my concern is that since you now recommend the msi ventus 3070 2x gpu, does this mean that the 52 mm thickness of the card will not pose a problem for the SG 13?
Good question. I'm actually not sure now that I look at the photos more carefully. I'll check with SilverStone on this, as it's not in the official spec for the case. If it doesn't fit, there may be no 3070 that can be used with this case.
I just checked with SilverStone about this, and they honestly don't know if the MSI will fit. The SG13's clearance is officially 50mm in width, but since the backplate may take up some of the MSI's 52mm measurement, it might work. Depends on how they've measured it. Unfortunately, none of the RTX 3070 cards that SilverStone has seen so far will fit. The 3070 Founders Edition will fit, but that is a Best Buy exclusive and unlikely to be available in significant numbers at any point.
I have the same SFX PSU and I have been running the 20pin cable backwards. I never attached the sense 4 pin as I didnt know what it was for. I've been running it like that for a week. I hope nothing is damaged in my system.
I'm pretty sure you can't plug it in backwards. But you can potentially boot without the sense 4-pin.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru You are right. I checked my PSU connections right after watching this video. I am relieved the 20pin cable cannot be connected backwards.
I just connected the sense 4 pin to the PSU and all SEEMS to be working fine. Thank you for your response. SUBSCRIBED.
Hi. Thank you for the video. I’ve not looked under the hood of a PC in decades and this makes me interested to build one. I have a question: say that I don’t play demanding games (I might play a Civ game here and there) but I edit RAW photos as a hobby, is there a smaller and cheaper video card that I can use instead? Your advice is appreciated.
Glad you stopped by! Sure, you can certainly go with a less expensive video card, but you do have to make sure it will fit... just because a video card is cheaper doesn't necessarily make it smaller! Editing RAW photos typically takes more CPU power than GPU power, and this guide recommends a Ryzen 7 3700X, which is definitely still what I'd recommend to you. For the GPU to play a Civ game and get a little boost in editing where certain photo tasks can be accelerated, I'd go with the GeForce GTX 1660 Super: amzn.to/30zl5Ig
It offers plenty of power, and yes, this particular model will definitely fit in the chassis!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thank you!
Thanks for the video! I have a question tho. I'm thinking on doing something air cooled with this base and I'm looking at the Noctua NH L9i.
Wouldn't it be better than the 12 due to its lower size?
No, it would not be better. It is a common misconception that adding more airflow space can make up for a weaker heatsink design. That is not how it works, and luckily, the L12S fits and costs just $10 more, making it a much better value than the L9i. I have tested both in separate shootouts:
ruclips.net/video/nx3axNgZs8U/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/eNDt9DKh13o/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru thanks a lot for the quick answer! In that case I'll get the 12. It will have less airflow but the space between it and an sfx psu should be enough.
Hi! First of all awesome video and guide. So I have bought the sugo sg13 and gathering the components for it. Here are some quick questions.
1. Do you advised to custom length the cables from sfx psu?
2. If 500watts silverstone strider 80gold enough to power the unit?
3. Opting to lower the GPU to a single fan. Just able to play 1080p. Is enough for me. Can you recommend a smaller awesome GPU?
4. Since intake is the best for temperature. Do you advise to custom build a side fan to exhaust the air coming in? I've seen built on reddit that they put side fan.
Hope you see this. Awesome guide and input.
500W is more than enough for the build as spec'd. If you wanted the ability to upgrade the GPU in the future, I would recommend the 650W version. The cables from the SFX power supply are already quite short. It will work fine.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru what about adding the side fan?
Sorry, I didn't see all of your questions, but now I read the whole thing. OK, so for a smaller single-fan GPU, well, I don't like single-fan GPUs. If you just want a less expensive GPU for 1080p gaming, I would go with the Gigabyte GTX 1660 Super 6GB: amzn.to/2UsKgJ7. Great performance for the price. In terms of side fan, I've seen people talk about that on reddit too. I'm not convinced it's worth the mess of cables and zipties, especially if you're running lower-powered components. The front intake fan is far more important.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru ok, I have the gist of it and will watch your vids on radiator fans et al. Thank you thank you for the responses and awesome advice.
Hi again. There seem to be supply issues with the upgraded fan, which is a important factor for me. Would this be a good substitute: Noctua NF-A12x25 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (120mm, Brown) Thanks for all of your help!
Ah, I hadn't noticed that. The NF-A12x25 is indeed out of stock. The FLX model doesn't have PWM control, so I don't like it as much for this application. It only makes sense where you can't take advantage of more precise PWM control.
What I recommend at this point is actually to go with the SilverStone PF120 cooler, which includes a fan that's much better than Corsair's fan. Here's my review of that cooler in the SG13 chassis: ruclips.net/video/qGOCk1S1WLs/видео.html
And here's a link to it on Amazon: amzn.to/33Cj6Vx
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks again!
You're currently recommending Patriot 2x8GB Viper Steel DDR4-3200. Would you recommend upping that to Patriot 2x16GB Viper Steel DDR4-3200 for someone doing a moderate to hardworking adobe creative suite content creation in addition to gaming?
Yes, absolutely. 16GB is great for a gaming system. If you're doing serious content creation, it's a bare minimum. Making it an easy choice is that the 2x16GB kit is an absolute steal! - amzn.to/2FdbKxt
That case support DTX motherboards? and if I put a motherboard with a m.2 slot in the back (like the Rog X570i) I can put the M.2 drive?
This case does not support DTX motherboards. And no, you do not have access to the M.2 slot on the back once the motherboard is mounted, although you can install the M.2 drive *before* you install the motherboard in the case. If you're interested in a case that has both the features you want, check out the new SG14: ruclips.net/video/48j4QRSVKxU/видео.html
I just wanted to let you know that I just finished building this PC. Good lord it took me a while but I really really hate that front panel wires. I had a hard time trying to plug it in and the wires was barely out of range. The pin connectors is right beside the wireless card. The MSI b450I motherboard is good but sometimes I hate it. lol
That's one thing about MSI - it doesn't provide any "jumper" for the front-panel connectors, meaning you have to plug each one directly into the motherboard. Asus, Asrock, and Gigabyte all provide a special extension block that you plug all the wires into, and then you plug the block into the motherboard. MSI should join the party! Anyway, glad you got it built!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru I agree. Thanks for your help!
Been absolutely devouring your videos over the past 24 hrs--almost 100% settled on going for this build (with the updated components, of course). I noticed that you recommend 3200 MHz RAM, but I've read elsewhere that high frequency RAM is super important for these AMD builds. Do you think upgrading to 3600 MHz RAM is worth it for this particular set-up? Also, I noticed that you replied to another comment saying that all we need is the jeweler's kit. Do I need a standard Phillips #2 screwdriver, too, or nah? Thanks much :)
Thanks for your visit! I have actually published a number of videos on RAM speed, so you can learn more by checking them out:
3200 vs. 3600 vs. 4000: ruclips.net/video/qI9GfhFyfRI/видео.html
3600 shootout: ruclips.net/video/fKqgqgfsgT8/видео.html
Tuning high-end RAM: ruclips.net/video/12_buI_HMqQ/видео.html
I think that will answer a lot of your questions, and each video builds on the last to paint the full picture of RAM performance.
As for the screwdrivers, yes, you still need a #2 in addition to the jeweler's screwdriver, but I assume most people already have that on hand!
Really appreciate your thorough, quick response.
I'm going to go with your 3600 MHz recommendation from the "3600 shootout". Your tests in the "3200 vs. 3600 vs. 4000" video showed minor FPS increases from 3200 to 3600 MHz, which I guess is worth the $13 bucks I'd spend to bring my total build (including peripherals) up to $1661. Not too bad! Took your recommendation for the 24 inch Sceptre display, by the way.
And interesting investigation into AMD's "Gear Down Mode"--I'll be sure to turn that off in the UEFI. Also, I won't be splurging for the 4000 MHz, but learning about high-end RAM tuning was REALLY fascinating.
Will be sure to post an update once all the parts come in and I (hopefully) succeed in building my first desktop ever! Much love from Seattle.
Glad you checked those videos out, the whole RAM speed thing is pretty complicated, but yes, a 3600 kit is a great pick at this point. Definitely a sweet spot, but you have to get a "real" 3600 kit, not one with ultra-weak timings. As you probably saw, the very best price/performance comes in the form of the Patriot Viper Steel 3600 CL17 kit: amzn.to/2ZXQbIY
Unfortunately, the RGB version I tested has been sold out ever since that video went live, which is annoying to say the least, as I'm not into reviewing phantom products!
Peace from Portland!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Ah don't worry, the RGB from the AIO cooler is more than enough for me. :) The Patriot Viper Steel CL17 kit was the exact model I was going for. As I mentioned, I'll be disabling Gear Down Mode since that RAM has an odd-numbered CAS timing.
Also, one question about the power supply. You measured this config with the 2070 Super as drawing 300-something watts at load; the 3070 is only estimated to need 5 watts more than the 2070 Super, so I assume the same 500 watt PSU will be good enough even after the GPU upgrade? Wondering only because NVIDIA recommends much higher, but I guess they probably do that just for liability reasons, or in case their customers accidentally buy low-efficiency PSUs?
Really good question. I'm going to have to look at actual power draw numbers to be sure on the PSU recommendation going forward. I would say it could be close, and a Corsair 600W model may be preferable to provide a little insurance: amzn.to/32U3XN2
Nvidia's recommendations are always higher than necessary to account for low-quality, over-rated PSUs with poor voltage regulation, but I think the RTX 3070 will end up drawing over 5W more than the 2070 Super.
And yes to Gear Down Mode being disabled when using that kit. As an aside, another option that I'm currently testing in my SFF bench is Crucial's Ballistix 3600 16-18-18 kit: amzn.to/3bwQWNx
It's only nominally faster, but it's been discounted pretty aggressively (hence being sold out) and doesn't require disabling Gear Down Mode to get the most out of it.
Another thing to note is that it appears EVGA will no longer sell RTX 3070 cards with "reference"-sized coolers, i.e. 10.6" or smaller. The Nvidia Founders Edition will fit, at just 9.5", but it may be the only option. This makes EVGA's Step Up program a lot less useful for SFF builders, because you won't be able to go from the EVGA 2070 to the EVGA 3070 in the SG13 case.
Arrrrggg. Needed a new small form factor desktop and followed the "THE BEST $1,500 HIGH-END MINI-ITX GAMING PC BUILD - FEBRUARY 2021" article, which suggest using the onboard graphics while we all wait for GPUs to come back in stock. Only problem is that the onboard graphics for the ASRock Z490M-ITX/ac don't work with the 10th gen Intel Core i5-10600K.
I'm sorry you're having issues, but the graphics outputs on the Z490M-ITX/AC most definitely work with a 10600K. If you describe your problem a bit more, maybe I can help. If you bought a 10600KF, which is *not* recommended in the guide, well, that won'twork.
Thanks for the reply. I spoke too soon. After installing all the Windows updates all the appropriate drivers installed and I'm good to go. Thanks for the great guide!
Glad it worked out for you. Going with Intel's built-in video really is a lifesaver right now, given that GPUs likely will not restock until June at the earliest.
Hey would a modular atx power supply fit in this case? The Corsair cx650m
You could use the CX650M in this chassis, but it would be very difficult to fit anything else in, like a decent cooler. If that's what you have already, you can build it up with a stock heatsink and then swap over to a new SFX power supply when you want to upgrade the cooling.
Like the video EXCEPT the components are changing weekly and the build guide video seems out of date since the motherboard is very different than the one used in the video. The graphics card and cooler are different as well. Have the B450 gaming -ITX/ac motherboard, PF120 cooler with noctua fan. Fan won't run, blank screen when powered up but graphics card fan is running? No SATA power for cooler? Help
Lots of product selections need to be updated regularly due to shortages that have hit the entire PC industry. That doesn't mean the parts recommended don't work though!
So, what you're describing is what 99% of people come to me with when their system won't boot. Luckily, 99% of the time, they get in running with just a little tinkering. So just be patient, the system *will* boot!
The first thing to do is pull both memory sticks out and reinsert just one of them firmly by pressing both sides down evenly until it fully clicks in.
By the way, the SilverStone PF120 does not require SATA power for its cooler. That's one of the many reasons I like it more than the older Corsair Hydro H60 used in the video.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks for the feedback. The Lights on the cooler are on but the the noctua fan isn't running.
Are you going to post more temp benchmarks? I'm a little concerned about it overheating.
Here you go - my final SG13 benchmarking video: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html
In the video, do you have the fan set to intake or exhaust? Sorry, I couldn't tell.
The fan is set to intake. You can learn why in this video: ruclips.net/video/vPDBENpbzJ4/видео.html
How about 92mm fan on the side of the case and installing AIO? What's the best scenario, exhaust or intake - cooling motherboards vrm directly?
A few people have asked about using a 92mm fan on the side. I haven't tested it, and I'm not sure it would help much when using an AIO. The air is going to be pushed out of the vent anyway.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru probably. Still would be interesting pairing more powerful cpu when you can cool vrm more efficient.
Can you recommend a different CPU Cooler? That fan seems impossible to get in Canada right now.
Sure, go for the Corsair H60 at Newegg.ca: click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=WAzU8cLhuCU&mid=44589&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.newegg.ca%2Fcorsair-liquid-cooling-system%2Fp%2FN82E16835181140%3FDescription%3Dcorsair%2520h60%26cm_re%3Dcorsair_h60-_-35-181-140-_-Product
And then upgrade it with the Arctic P12 fan: amzn.to/3aV40vQ
I saw in the below comments that a gtx 3070 FE will fit in this build, but I wanted to know if the same power supply would be sufficient?
I will be recommending a 650W model once the RTX 3070 launches. It doesn't use that much power, but to be safe, I'll go up a power class. Here's the link to the model that I would recommend today: amzn.to/31QyFXZ #ad
And take note, very few 3070 models will actually fit, we'll have to see what actually launches and is available at retail.
I just built a sg13 using a ryzen 3600 and a deepcool l120 gammaxx. Fan is set to exhaust on case side. My cpu temps are pretty awful at idle and load. About 55c idle and 80c load. I'm not sure if I messed up the pump install or the cooler just isn't as good as the corsair. Going to try doing an intake setup and also have a sfx psu on order.
See this: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru I watched that one already. I switched the fan to intake in the front of the rad. Temps dropped to approx 75c while playing a game from 97c. Pretty impressive difference. I might try and put a fan on the side when my sfx psu arrives.
Note that the Corsair H60 was discontinued (mine stopped cooling so maybe a hardware issue). I got a warranty repair for an H60x (presumably the replacement with the issue resolved).
do you think having an open air gpu will increase the temperatures of the vrm?
Watch this video for my answers: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html. I don't talk about VRMs specifically, but open-air coolers definitely heat up the CPU, which means they'll heat up the VRM too.
Hi, I have a question I have sfx psu but I don't have the bracket for sg13 case, bracket is not selling in my country. What do you recommend me to do?
Tricky problem. You really do need that bracket. If you don't have access to it, you may be able to use another brand's bracket, but they are almost all centered, which means there's less space for the liquid cooler's hoses. Perhaps reach out to SilverStone support in the region where you live and ask how you can get its PP08 bracket most easily.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru thanx for answer :)
Can some one please say what is the total weight of the build?
What was the recommended thermal paste? I don't have stuff like that sitting around so it would be really helpful to include it in the list of components, unless it comes with something else on the list.
It's included with the cooler.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru including with the Silverstone cooler the guide currently recommends? Because it wasn't in the box I received (which was supposed to be new but arrived with a broken seal and badly packaged; Amazon is the worst).
Yes, included with SilverStone cooler. But if your was opened and missing the thermal paste, either return the whole thing or order this: amzn.to/3iSwCv9
@@TheTechBuyersGuru thanks, I already put in for a full replacement. Out of curiosity though, would the Corsair in this video fit with the rest of the parts in the current list? I saw it available for about the same price as the Silverstone so wonder why the change.
Because the SilverStone is better. I tested it: ruclips.net/video/qGOCk1S1WLs/видео.html
Isn’t there a potential bios problem with the cpu and motherboard combo?
That hasn't been an issue since January 2020, but yes, originally it was. At this point, however, many months since publication, I only recommend B550 boards.
Aiming to do this either this month or next. Are there any recommended upgrades/changes?
Yup, a few changes. I no longer recommend the Corsair H60. Instead, go for the SilverStone PF120: amzn.to/319FpPr
Same thermals at much lower noise levels, plus you get some cool ARGB effects. No need for the upgraded Noctua fan with this cooler.
Also, if you want a 1-2% boost in performance for under $20, go for the 3600MHz version of the Viper Steel RAM in the build video: amzn.to/33i5gat
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thank you!
I’m planning on doing a build like this specifically for using a valve index for VR gaming. Ive never built a pc though and have no idea how to gauge power. Would I be able to run games like Half Life: Alyx at high settings, or would you recommend getting a stronger GPU?
The RTX 2070 Super is a good starting point for the latest VR games like Alyx. For VR, you need a minimum of 90fps (90Hz) to avoid motion sickness, and 120fps (120Hz) is even better. The 2070 Super can lock 90Hz without a problem, to get to a locked 120Hz in Alyx would take a bit more power. So if you can stretch your budget, go for the RTX 2080 Super. EVGA actually has these in stock on their website, for UNDER the MSRP, which is rare these days due to product shortages. Here's the link: www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-3081-KR&associatecode=J45HKU1STKHTH3H
Plug in the associate 5% discount code J45HKU1STKHTH3H at checkout, and it comes to $654 after rebate. Very good deal considering most RTX 2080 Super cards are above $750.
By the way, you'll also want to upgrade the power supply to use this GPU, using the SilverStone SX700-G: amzn.to/2Adu5Io. So total extra cost from the $1,500 build is about $200, but it will be quite a bit better overall for Alyx.
The Tech Buyer's Guru thank you! This is really helpful, as are your videos. I’ve learned a lot so far.
Hey Ive heard that PSU facing downwards is actually better than putting it upside down... The temps are a lot better for all of the components. Now I’m confused on which orientation to place my PSU in
Depends on the cooler and the power supply. If you're using a liquid cooler set to intake air, and you're using an SFX-L power supply, having the fan down will help. I do recommend setting the AIO to intake in this video, but I used an SFX power supply, which has a tiny fan and a very tight interior. I haven't tested whether it works better to have the fan down, but it will certainly cause the PSU fan to spin like crazy, because the PSU will detect that it's overheating at all times. So it's a trade-off. Feel free to try it both ways. When I have time, I might benchmark it. My advice in this video is based on prolonging the life of the PSU.
Can you help me out? i'd like to build a new system using this case. I'm thinking of getting the Aorus B450 I MOBO with those VIPER STEEL RAM sticks and the SST-SX500-G PSU, but i'd like to know if it'll fit a Noctua NH-l9x65 cooler instead. I belive it will perform better specially because i live in colombia, is rather warm here all year long and i won't have air conditioning to compensate for it, and this cooler seems a bit better than the one you usually recommend.
The NH-L9x65 is not better than the cooler I recommend. It's actually one of the lowest-performing coolers you can use in this system, barely better than the stock cooler that comes with Ryzen processors. You can learn more here: ruclips.net/video/nx3axNgZs8U/видео.html
Do you think is possible to arrange the same build on a Fractal design node 304?
The Node 304 has a completely different layout. But it's also much larger (20 liters vs. 12 liters), which means you can actually use the parts in this guide, but I'd recommend you use a 120mm air tower cooler instead
Hey. I’m using the ASRock Z490M-ITX/ac motherboard that you suggest in your new build. I don’t have brackets for the motherboard that will allow me to mount the PF120. Is there another way for me to get this mounted? I purchased brackets from Amazon, but they aren’t long enough to align with the holes on the mother board at all.
Intel brackets are included with the cooler. It's identical to socket 1151, and you may not see any reference to socket 1200, which is what's on the Z490M-ITX/ac.
I’m trying to think of a way to get some more guidance without sounding absolutely ignorant. I’ve never tried building a PC in general before. I must admit I still can’t quite figure out how to mount this. I feel like it’s something simple that I am missing.
Oh no. Ignore me. I think I figured it out.
No worries. I think part of the problem is that SilverStone doesn't include a printed manual, and for a cooler, you definitely need one! I'll give them this feedback!
@teh tech buyer's Guru why dont you recommend atx psu's for this case?
It is impossible to properly cool a high-end system in this case if you use an ATX power supply. That is only an option if you are building an ultra-low-end PC.
I was wondering would I be able to stick a harddisk in there with this setup?
No, unless you use a 2.5" drive.
Wow, how are you getting those temps? I have more or less the same setup: CPU, cooler, and case. The main difference is Asus Strix x570-i and Corsair SFF600, but my temps are 40-50 idle and above 80 in Cinebench R20. Any advice?
Cinebench R20 is more intense than R15, which I used to test temps. Maybe you'll find some useful tips in my follow-up video: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks for the quick reply. I'll check out your follow-up vid and try the Cinebench R15 to see if there is any difference under load, but what worries me most are the idle temps.
Yes, try Cinebench R15 and CPU-Z as well for apples-to-apples comparisons. But let me give you one word of advice: idle temps SHOULD NOT worry you most. They are basically irrelevant from my point of view, having benched hundreds of different CPU/GPU configurations. Consider that even if your CPU is for whatever reason idling at 50C or even 60C, it can't be damaged at that temp. What you should worry about is if you are seeing your CPU regularly maintaining temperatures over 80C in apps you actually use (i.e., not Cinebench R20). That is why I use CPU-Z for every benchmarking video. It is a great approximation of apps people actually use most of the time.
Now, if you are actually using rendering apps for hours at a time and your CPU is hitting over 80C in them, well, then you have to consider whether you have the right cooling, and also if you have the right system for your needs, but that's another story.
The SX500-G is suddenly not available anywhere, and neither are any reasonably-priced 450-750w SFX alternatives. The only thing I can find is the larger SFX-L supplies. Would an SFX-L get in the way of anything?
Actually, nearly every power supply in the world has sold out! Has to do with supply chains and the impact of the pandemic on freight from China, where every power supply is made. While it's a bit expensive, your best bet by far is to go with the SilverStone SX700: amzn.to/3djJzZI. It's a Platinum-rated SFX unit, so you get the small size plus higher output and higher efficiency. It's the only SFX-class unit you'll find on the market at this point. And SFX-L unit would fit, and I've had one installed in this system before, but it would put a lot of pressure on the hoses, which I'm a little uncomfortable with long term. And they're out of stock right now too!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks for the info! I was looking at a Corsair SF600, also backordered, but I will go with this SX700-PT instead.
I'm wondering how snug of a fit the GPU is in this case. Back in 2019 you fit a EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti BLACK EDITION GAMING into this case. According to EVGA, the length of that gpu is 270mm and the max length recommended by Silverstone is 267mm. I know it's only 3mm, but was that 3mm very critical to the build? Did you need to finesse the GPU into the case or something?
I LOVE how budget conscious u guys are even when building high end PCs. I for one have never wasted a penny on RGB.
Yup, it fits! Check it out: ruclips.net/video/MVLPLRd6pXk/видео.html
Technically, what SilverStone is referring to is 10.5" cards, which is an old standard that Nvidia used to abide by many years ago. 10.5" converted to mm is 267. But reference cards since around 2015 have actually been 10.6", or 269mm long. I've actually told SilverStone they should update their specs, as it scares a lot of people off, despite the fact that they are just referring to "Nvidia reference", and that means 269mm today, and the case definitely has space for cards longer than 267mm!
i am building the SG13 from last month with the mini graphics card. Do you have an alternate video card that is comparable to the Zotac 2060 8GB, cause that card is tough to find. Looking around to spend $400. or is it worth to downsize the front fan so i can get a different card in there.
No one else makes a dual-fan GeForce card as short as the Zotac Mini models. Gigabyte has a single-fan model, but I wouldn't trust it for cooling: amzn.to/2zfNNTl. Luckily, there is another option, maybe even better than the Zotac 2060. You can keep your big fan in front and use the MSI RX 5700 XT Mech: amzn.to/2SHJ2Zh. Yes, it's backordered, but that's pandemic-related, not because there's anything wrong with the card. Alternatively, you can scrap the 140mm front fan and go with the EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 Super: amzn.to/3ftz1sD. Backordered *only* two weeks! You can then replace the front fan with the Arctic F12 120mm: amzn.to/2znyzLK
@@TheTechBuyersGuru So i put this all together, I push the power button, then fans spin but the Motherboard doesn't POST. The Orange lights don't come on the bottom of Motherboard. That's problem 1. Sometimes after a few tries, it does finally POST and i was able to install Windows. When i need to restart, it does, but the SysFan & CPU fan don't run. The heat sink gets really hot, but the fans never kick on. Then I shut it down manually. When i try to get into the BIOS, it keeps saying the BIOS was reset? i updated the BIOS hoping that would fix the issue, but it hasn't. Any ideas? Sorry for the long post.
Heya @The Tech Buyer's Guru , I'm loving this system but I'm having one glitch. Whenever the video card gets under load I get popping in the wired headset. The popping accellerates with the heat in the video card. When I tab out of a game for instance, the popping gets slower and slower until it stops, but starts speeding up again once I go back into a game. Any ideas?
Have you tried an alternative jack on your PC? If you're using rear, try front, and vice versa. But generally, this kind of thing can happen when using motherboard audio that isn't fully-shielded.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks yep, switching to the rear jack resolved the issue. Fun PC!
Glad to hear that worked out!
Just finished this build the other day, everything went together well, but I'm getting what seems like high (90-100 degree C) CPU temps after about 5 minutes at idle. I'm using the B550m MB, with the SilverStone PF-120 cooler, with the fan blowing into the case. The fan is connected to the CPU fan connector (CPU_FAN1), and the pump is connected to the chassis/ water pump connector(CHA_FAN2/WP) on the MB. Using the NZXT cam app , it shows I'm starting at 65-70 degrees C at Idle with fan speed @2119. It gradually creeps up to over 95%. The fan works , light work...I'm thinking the pump might be bad? Am I missing anything? Your video is very well done!
Thanks for checking in! I agree those temps do not sound good, so let's dig a bit deeper to figure out what's going on. I don't recommend the NZXT CAM app, simply because it's designed for use with NZXT components. I recommend you download the software for your motherboard (I believe that's an Asrock board you mentioned), and then HWMonitor, which is a free and very comprehensive monitoring suite: www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
I am wondering right off the bat whether you might have left the plastic cover on the cooler transfer plate. It's easy to miss if you're not familiar with AIO coolers. To determine the fan speeds, use HWMonitor to see if both the CPU fan and the second fan (which will be your pump) both show an RPM level above 0. Your connections sound good, but it's possible, although not likely, that the pump is faulty.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks for the quick response! I downloaded Hwmonitor, and I see that the CPU min-max is 35-45 degrees C . SysFan is 1470, and CPU fan is 1573, all at idle ...much better! Oddly enough, when I bring up the NZXT cam it now shows the same reading as Hw monitor . The Hw monitor gives a lot more info, thanks for the tip. I'll keep an eye on it , but seems like all is well.
OK, definitely seems like it was a monitoring error on the part of NZXT CAM!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Just booted her up now, (after an hour break) and both HWMonitor and NZXT cam are showing readings of 95 degrees C and CPU fan speed @ 2000 @ idle , but now SYSFann doesn't show up on the HWMonitor. I quickly shut her down.
Swap headers that the pump and fan are connected to. Did you download motherboard fan control software? You're going to need it.
Quick Question! I know very little about PC's and want to build one to save money rather than buying one. So to get the parts I know nothing about, I look at builds on youtube such as your video you created. My budget can be anything around 1500. Im wondering if this PC Build is a good one to purchase or you think you have other videos that are better for me?
Thanks for stopping by, Daniel! This would be a great system for you, especially if you want a compact PC. It's awesome! But if you're new to building PCs, it could be a bit easier for you to build a full-size PC, as there's more space to work with inside a tower case. Here's my $1500 PC buyer's guide: ruclips.net/video/c3fzDE9lZDc/видео.html. If you need help building this system, you can use my step-by-step $2500 PC assembly guide: ruclips.net/video/YqIPXHw35kE/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thank You! Im going to use that video as my own build. In that first video you linked, is the GPU you mentioned able to withstand majority of games released? For example, I would like to play Minecraft with intense shaders which I know requires more of a high end system and I wasn't sure if it was high enough (or just most intense games in general). Sorry for all these dumb questions btw haha
That will definitely work - the GPU is an RTX 2070 Super, very high end!
Has there been any news on an RTX 3070, instead of the RTX 2070, that will meet the dimension requirements for fitting into this build yet?
The only RTX 3070 announced so far that will fit in this build is the Nvidia Founders Edition. It will be available from Nvidia and Best Buy.
Any chance to make another one with 64gb Ram and whatever is available on the latest pc parts out there? I really like your videos and i am eager to follow up your next super powerfull gaming but mostly working mini pc for unreal , unity, and work in 3d programs in general . Thank you and keep up the good work!
Thanks for the suggestion! I may follow this up with a new build once AMD's Zen 3 arrives, likely at the end of the year. Until then, I can suggest that if you want to upgrade it, you can, using the following components:
(1) CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X - amzn.to/3iimetz
This is the hottest-running CPU I'd recommend for this system.
(2) RAM: Patriot 2x32GB Viper Blackout DDR4-3200 - amzn.to/31prrci
Absolute best kit for the money if you're looking for 64GB in two sticks. Patriot also has a DDR4-3600 kit, but the timings are too loose to justify going with them. Getting tight timings on 32GB modules just isn't realistic at this point, so save money by going with the 3200 kit.
(3) CPU Cooler: SilverStone PF120 - amzn.to/2XD7RYO
This cooler is better than the Corsair H60 I used in the video. Much lower noise levels achieve the same temps.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks for the suggestions. I better wait then till you make a new small powerfull pc. Looking forward for more of your videos :D
also if possible i would love to see you making this build cause seems very neat and super powerfull pcpartpicker.com/list/dLs3L2
I have pretty strong opinions about that build. I think it sounds good in the abstract, but would not actually be a good system. It would be a hot box that could potentially ruin your motherboard and would certainly cause both the CPU and GPU to throttle constantly. I actually have a Black Ridge cooler in for testing, and will be including it in a shootout coming later this month. But under no circumstances would I ever run that cooler on a 3950X, even if Dan wants people to. Sure, it was custom-made for that chassis, but it does not mean it works with a processor that can pull 200W like the 3950X.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru You think will have problem with overheating even without overclocking?
Hi - awesome guide! Am looking to upgrade my 'old' build (actually based on your guide from a couple of years back using 1080Ti card) to this version, but I'd like to try with a 2080Ti for maximum performance - provided I use a small card (e.g. ZOTAC 2080 Ti Twin Fan or Blower), do you think it would work?
Based on the benchmarks I've done, I think it will run very hot and insanely loud. You can see my initial review of the SG13/2080 Ti combo here, with a much older, air-cooled CPU: techbuyersguru.com/pushing-itx-gaming-limit-rtx-2080-ti-under-12-liters. The system ran MUCH louder than the liquid-cooled setup with a Ryzen processor featured in this video: ruclips.net/video/vPDBENpbzJ4/видео.html
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Ah, so probably better to go with a slightly larger case then for those cards... Right, new plan! Thanks!
Yeah, probably, unless noise doesn't concern you. There are a lot of videos on RUclips showing tiny cases with RTX 2080 Ti video cards in them, but you really have to know how it sounds to make a decision. I'd recommend the Fractal Design Core 500: amzn.to/2VMqOGY. While it doesn't have a front intake vent, open air video cards actually need a top vent a whole lot more, and this one has a big one.
The Tech Buyer's Guru That’s actually the case I have in my current build and yes, it’s superb!
LOL, then you're all set! You based that on one of the older TBG guides, right? I'd actually keep that case and just upgrade the components. Still a great case, frankly I can't quite remember why I pulled it from the guides! Maybe I'll add it back!
If you want to build a new, more powerful system in that case, here are the modifications I'd make:
(1) upgrade your motherboard and CPU as desired (if you already have an 8700K or above, you're honestly fine).
(2) Install a 240mm liquid cooler, specifically the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240: amzn.to/2VPBEMo. Note that you'll need to remove all drive cages from the system other than the side-mounted 2.5" bays.
(3) Install a dual-slot RTX 2080 Ti, such as the EVGA 2080 Ti XC Black: amzn.to/2Kv93Xp. Pretty much identical to the one I used in my SG13 testing. Longer or wider cards may not fit in the case.
(4) Flip the orientation of the rear fan from exhaust to intake. It will serve to cool your components and help push air out the top, helping both the video card (which blows up) and the radiator (which obviously does as well).
Wasn't it a VR build originally? Is it no longer capable of VR or are we at a point where it's implied these components can pull it off well enough? P.S. I've been stalking this build for over a year now, working up the courage and funds to attempt it.
Yup, implied! GPU power has increased faster than VR development. Trouble will be finding any RTX 3060 Ti cards between now and May of this year, keeping in mind that only a few models fit in the case: EVGA XC, MSI Ventus 2X, and Asus Dual ITX.
Hi there.....definitely interested in building this based on the 10/2021 update. One question I had is the 1660 GPU.....can this be replaced in the future with something else? Is the 1660 capable with current games? How much am I "settling"? Alternatively, am I better off with an Intel motherboard coupled with a Core i7 10th gen? Is there anyway you can recommend parts for that build instead?
Thanks for your questions on the latest guide. It is indeed a difficult situation we are in right now, and it's been this way all year. If I thought it would be better soon, I'd tell you, but prices and availability are actually getting worse, after a brief moment in August when it looked like they were turning around for the better. I used to recommend an Intel CPU with built-in graphics to "wait it out", but waiting it out is no longer an option. There is no end in sight.
So, to answer your other question: the GTX 1660 is very capable at 1080p, but it will have trouble at higher resolutions. You can absolutely upgrade this system with a higher-end GPU, but there are limitations related to size. Most will be too big. But one that I know will fit and is a huge step up is the Zotac GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB: amzn.to/30aNeY9
I'm not thrilled with the ~$900 price on this, but it is available, and it's legitimately over twice as fast as the 1660, based on my video card rankings that you can see here: ruclips.net/video/lEQtO1EB7gA/видео.html
From the standpoint of total system cost, the extra $450 is WELL worth it (33% more for 225% more performance), but I can't recommend it in the guide because it puts the system at $2000, and I already have a $2000 build, which you can see right here: techbuyersguru.com/guide/the-best-2000-ultimate-mini-itx-gaming-pc-build/
Of course, that build is much bigger, and uses a video card that is actually far too large for the $1500 build's case. Arguably, the $1500 build with the RTX 3060 Ti upgrade is actually more attractive at the same pricepoint due to its tiny size, but the bigger $2000 build does have more upgrade potential thanks to the higher-watt PSU, the much larger space for GPUs, and the larger cooler.
Basically, given the current GPU market, you have to spend $800+ to get a legitimate current-gen GPU, which makes building systems under $2000 very, very hard. Hope that helps, and please do use the links in the guide and above to help support TBG content if you go ahead with the build!
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks for the quick response! Have everything queued up and ready to purchase. If I go with the 3060ti, will the recommended build with all other components as referenced be sufficient for cooling?
Yes, absolutely. The 3060 Ti is what I was recommending for this build back in December when it was "released". Unfortunately it didn't become available until recently, and then only at double MSRP. But it's a great GPU for this system, really the ideal pick not just in terms of size (it's the most powerful GPU that will fit), but also heat (it's quite efficient for its performance). It pulls 200W at max, which combined with the ~95W of an overclocked 5600X is well within the range of the 500W PSU. With that said, the SilverStone SX500-G has gone up about $15 in the past day or so, and at this point EVGA's competing 550W model is a much better deal and has 50W extra capacity: amzn.to/3DBIKsh
@@TheTechBuyersGuru Thanks. Is the EVGA power supply the same form factor and do I need the bracket still?
Good questions, I can tell you're on top of this! Yes, it's the same form factor (SFX), and yes, you still need the bracket!
If we wanted to get shorter pericord cables, what would u recommend?
I would recommend SilverStone's PP05 short modular cable kit: amzn.to/2VLzZrM. It's specially designed for ultra-compact ITX cases where you need very short cable runs.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru THANKS! microcenter finally had the x570i in stock so I'm picking that up today.
Can you help me out? I have my build with same motherboard and i cant figure out how to connect the power supply to the CPU power, it seems both sides need the 8 pin connection, and the only cable included is the 8 pin to 2 4pin connectors, I feel like i am missing something
Also same power supply
From what ive read i can plug just one of the 4 pins into the motherboard 8 pin cpu connector, is that correct?
All you need to do is put both 4 pin connectors into the 8-pin receptacle on the motherboard, side by side.
Hi, I tried posting this question already but I’m not sure if it posted. I’m wondering if there is any reason I wouldn’t be able to use an i9 processor in this build? Thanks for your help.
That's pushing the limit of the cooling system. I'd probably limit it to a Core i9-9900K, Core i7-10700K or Core i7-11700K. I wouldn't use a 10850K/10900K/11900K.
Could I upgrade the cooling system to compensate for a 10900k? 😅
(Thanks for your reply by the way)
I’m trying to get the best I can in the smallest chassis possible. I also plan to get the mini rtx 3060 ti that you recommend when it’s finally available. From what I can tell, this build is the smallest chassis that can fit a liquid cooler.
How do u remove the intel brackets?
Pull very hard!
Will a rtx 2070 or a 2060 fit in this case?
And does it come with a fan included?
Yes, definitely. A good choice would be the EVGA RTX 2060 KO: click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=WAzU8cLhuCU&mid=44583&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.newegg.com%2Fevga-geforce-rtx-2060-06g-p4-2066-kr%2Fp%2FN82E16814487488%3F%26quicklink%3Dtrue
Good price, and you can register it to Step Up within 90 days to any new model that might come out.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru and the fan is included?
(Thanks for answering even though the video was released 5 months ago btw)
You saved a lot of work for me :3
¡New subscriber!
Thanks for the sub! The case fan is not included - it comes with the liquid cooler. Note that I recommend the SilverStone PF120 now: amzn.to/3ch4M76
It's better than the Corsair H60 that I used in the video.
is there enough room for a 3.5 hdd, and two 2.5 ssd's? or would that restrict airflow too much?
You can do either a 3.5" drive or dual 2.5" drives, but I would never recommend a 3.5" drive. It will not only restrict airflow, it will make finding space for cables and tubes nearly impossible. The dual 2.5" drives aren't as bad, definitely workable, but keep in mind that there is the hidden 2.5" drive mount at the bottom of the case.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru thank you! So do you think i should use the drive mount at the bottom and the other ssd in the top tray, and forget about the hdd
I would definitely skip the 3.5" hard drive, and then rely on the three 2.5" drive mounting options. Remember, you can use a 2.5" hard drive, up to 2TB, like this Seagate Barracuda: amzn.to/2AOn15u
How's the airflow working out for you man?
It's really good for the CPU, but to increase airflow to other components, I'd recommend flipping the power supply so it draws air out of the system. That will heat up the PSU, but because it has thermal regulation and a fan, it can take care of itself. M.2 drives and VRMs due tend to get a bit toasty otherwise.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru yea was thinking the same. waiting on parts to arrive and will commence build soon. have 1 or 2 things i would do differently but let me test it out first. will post back.
I have this case with an air cooler, I use thermal pad on my M.2 SSD, use PSU to draw the hot air out and use 2 extra exhaust fans, one small 30mm above the graphics card and one extra thin 80mm mounted on the right side of the case with zipties to draw out leftover air from the motherboard (unecessary with water cooling) and it is amazing
Does the rtx 3070 will fit into this case?
The only one that has been announced is the 3070 FE, and it will fit. Most likely no third-party models will, unless Zotac comes up with 3070 Mini.
what is the different between zotac 2070 super air and zotac 2070 super mini?
The Zotac 2070 Super Twin Fan (amzn.to/2z4MKVS) is 10.6" long, and has a larger heatsink than the Zotac 2070 Super Mini (amzn.to/2KPY3nB), which is 8.3" long. The Twin Fan will run a bit cooler, but it's $10 more expensive and much harder to find in stock. Either will fit in this build if using the liquid cooler recommended in the video.
No Radeon cards?
Looks at my 580 inside my SG13.
I'm talking about cards in the same class as the RTX 2070.
Hi, will you still be able to use the HDD Tray on top with installed 120mm Radiator?
You cannot install 3.5" drives with a liquid cooler installed. You should be able to use the 2.5" tray, but it could be tight. Keep in mind that there is a 2.5" mount at the bottom of the chassis.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru currently I am having trouble with my temps with the AMD Stealth Cooler. Can you suggest other Coolers since I cannot install a 120mm AIO with my existing setup of the 3.5in HDD Tray?
@@TheTechBuyersGuru btw, I am using the SG13 mini ITX case with FSP Dagger Pro 650w
The problem with your system is that you have it stuffed full of components. There's no airflow in the case with a 3.5" drive and an ATX power supply. You will not be able to improve thermals much beyond what the Wraith Stealth can do given the 61mm cooler height limit you have. The only thing I'd suggest is to install a 120mm intake fan if you don't have one.
@@TheTechBuyersGuru I might add the 120mm in front first before going to a new cooler. Btw, the PSU I am using is a SFF. I am positioning the PSU fan facing upwards as well which I followed from your setup I watched from one of your videos if I am not mistaken.