30 years as a certified OPE technician, and Stihl Master Service tech, and everything you did in this video is exactly what we do in the shop. Sure, I give the quote to the customer with the OEM carb, then another with a carb off Amazon, and truth be told, the Amazon cheapo carbs works just fine, my advice is just go with that. Never even bother wasting time trying to clean the carbs anymore, it's a simple matter if "when in doubt, throw it out" when it comes to carbs. One thing to remember though, Stihl's hate inferior 2 stroke oil. Try to stick with Stihl oil, Castrol (they make it for Stihl), Lucas Oil, or even Echo oil. Using cheap oil or outboard marine motor 2-stroke oil will destroy a Stihl in short order. I mean it, I cannot stress that enough, I have a boneyard of FS130's and BR600's that were only a few months old but were destroyed because the owners chose to run cheap oil in the fuel mix.
Stihl 2-stroke oil is literally one of the worst... even if you buy a very cheap one, it will be fulfill the same JASO and ISO standards... look it up, I'm not joking
@@gnaedigerfels LOL, yeah sure, I thought that too when I was 19, until I learned better. I don't need to "look it up" I have my certs, so your comment isn't even worth wiping with. Go ahead, run your cheap oil in YOUR Stihl, but don't come whining back to the dealer or technician when it locks up on you. Another ham & egger. Sit down.
You made the correct decision...get the aftermarket carb, because more than likely it will last nearly as long. The important point here is Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance....and keep maintaining it.
I just got through installing my new China carburetor kit . It was $19.98.Everything was easy, went back together perfectly! It even came with new hoses, two extra fuel filters, a spark plug, and two extra primer bulbs. Which I replaced all of it. Other than an idle adjustment, I didn't have to adjust anything else. And now the weedeater runs perfectly! Thanks for the info sir.
I find it far more economical and way less stressful to just buy an aftermarket carb. Some of the time they even include fuel filters, fuel line, extra bulbs, etc.
I recently put a new carb and gas tank on this exact weed eater. If I buy I new carb I try to buy one from my stihl dealer. They’re usually better quality than the cheap ones online.
I’ve been studying this video for six months - ordered the same carb kit three months ago - just installed it “as perfectly explained,by You” pulled the roped twice with the choke on, then once with it off, and, Eureka!!! My 2007 model started on the next pull. It runs like a new one, again. I can’t thank you enough. Salute 😊🫡
I think you made the correct decision. You might have considered a carb kit, but those are pricey too. If you were running a commercial shop, let the owner decide, but you're doing this as a hobby..you get the idea. You got it running, that's what matters.
First, when I’m done using any of my two cycle equipment I dump gas back in the fuel/oil mix gas can I have. Then I start and run it until it quits. I was all the gas out of the carburetor that I can get out. I work on my own stuff and have used after market carbs on repairs I’ve made with very few issues. So I don’t fault you for using them. Thanks for the video.
My Echo straight shaft brush cutter, leaf blower and pole chainsaw all eventually would not start. I cleaned and put a kit in the brush cutter carb but it still wouldn't start so I installed a after market carb and it started right up and has been running perfect now for three years. When the other two machines quit I went with new carbs out of the gate. All three run great and start easily. I started using racing fuel three years ago and believe the ethanol free, leaded fuel with no additives helps keep the fuel systems in good working order when not being used regularly.
I've been watching many videos of fixing trimmer carburetors and this is, I believe, the best that I've seen so far. Straight forward, to the point and no fluff. Thanks for a great video. I will be looking out for you in the future.
@@FabianClarke-e2i he left out two important aspects : the timing mark and being on the correct stroke. Better watch another video showing the complete process correctly.
i found that when you clean a spark arrestor, its best not to use a wire brush. This is because when scratched, it creates a much better bonding surface for the carbon to adhere to. I like to use compressed air, but most of the time you dont have to use either. Nice job, appreciate the fine work
You did the right thing. I had the same issue and ordered an after-market carb from Amazon for $13.00. It saved me a lot of time, and it worked perfectly. 😊
Good video! Over the years as a farm equipment/ lawn & garden tech, I've grown into the "Never-seize" habit. Spark plugs, exhaust hardware, etc get a dab of the stuff.
Working at a dealership of Stihl products i can say, yes stihl carbs are pricey. we've tried aftermarket and it's about a 50/50 shot they'll work. So we typically we stay away from them, just for the hassles sake and possible doubling the time invested in repairs. But for homeowners, i say go for it.
I feel like with quality fuel, oil, and maintenance, any carb will last sufficiently long to justify it. I use A LOT of aftermarket carbs, especially on 2 stroke equipment. I find cleaning them, even in my ultrasonic, is sometimes hit or miss. There's a lot of little check valves on the ones with the built-in primer bulbs. I use a small jar (Peanut butter, etc) that is clean to put my 2 cycle carbs into the ultrasonic. I use the same gas I would use in equipment, in the jar. I find this does a very good job on cleaning these items, and doesn't immerse it in even more dirt/grime than was already with it. Ultrasonic makes it MUCH easier to clean the more gummed up mower/pressure washer carbs. I've put some pretty nasty ones in it, and with a good degreaser & dawn dish soap, they come out in much better shape. I still use my carb spray to rinse and help unclog small passages that may still require my pokey tool. I will disassemble the carb early in my process, put in the cleaner and during the 10-15 mins, allows me time to remove wheels (lubricating), sharpen blades, etc. Once it's done, I'm ready to assemble everything.
My FS40 had no spark. O bought an aftermarket coil and a carb. rebuild kit. After installation it still wouldn't start! Frustrated... I was looking online and found this. Your comment about cleaning the spark arrester made check mine, and was totally caked! I cleaned it and it started on the first pull... Thanks for your video!
Nothing wrong with ordering the aftermarket carb because it's an easy way to at least have a rebuild kit if the cheap carb doesn't work well you can use the parts to try rebuilding the original carb. It's a great plan 😁
I like the thrill of the chase. Lol. It’s only a hobby for me. Sometimes I eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats me and I buy an aftermarket carb. No judgement either way as long as the darn thing gets up and running. Thanks for your time HG
The carb looked very clean but the diaphragms had hardened. I personally would have purchased a carb re-build kit and tried to correct the problem that way. If the rebuild failed, I would go with the aftermarket carb like you did. I have this trimmer BTW and did rebuild mine successfully.
My older cousin has had this exact weedeater model for years in his lawn care business, and his still runs like a beast. Good chance I’ll invest a weedeater like this one, and also a straight shaft along with it.
@@HomeGaragechannel it sure is! I have a string trimmer myself but it’s a Craftsman WC2200 curve shaft trimmer. She runs pretty good so far. I’ll keep her for a little while, but in the future, I’ll be buying that Stihl FS90R trimmer on the market, and sell my trimmer to someone else.
Nice job. Pro tips are awesome. Spend 10 minutes on the carb and if you need to replace go for it. I’d probably do the OEM but I’m not a small engine shop. Most customers would opt for aftermarket too!!
I have a new carb. from Amazon that just came in the mail for my Stihl trimmer. I didn't even go to the Stihl dealer and ask how much an OEM carb would cost when I saw the prices on Amazon. OEM prices are so out of line that if you can fix it yourself, it never pays to take it to the dealer for repairs. The price of OEM parts is the main culprit.
I just installed an aftermarket carb on my FS90 from 2007. It sat for a few years unused with gas in the tank. It was 10% ethanol pump gas too... I had ran a bunch of Seafoam in the gas and directly into the carb and combustion chamber. It ran but was sluggish getting up to speed and would bog down at anymore than 75% throttle. So the carb kit had 2 fuel filters, spare hoses, new plug and air filter, and even purge bulbs. It could not hurt to try. The new carb worked great but I still need to tweak the low mixture screw and idle speed screw. I feel comfortable using it and it does not bog from idle to full throttle. It will be a backup to my new FS94 and will probably see a brush knife or a FixCut 31-2 head running .130 line. In the meantime, the OEM Stihl carb will be soaked and rebuilt with an OEM Stihl Rebuild Kit. So using 3rd party carbs are a viable alternative.
Bought new Stihl OEM carb 45$, after 11 mos stopped working ! Dealer told me to pound sand. 15$ Chinese carb (HIPA KIT) and back in business with new fuel lines,bulbs,plugs,filter included also. So Done with oem
All it needed was a primer bulb and someone taking care of it. Made my KM90R since 2006 and still runs perfect. Primer bulbs dry out over the years and cracks are a vacuum leak - won't run. Ethanol free fuel is also key to no fuel system trouble.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have two STIHL Brush cutters, but the big FS 240 (not an R model, mine has motorcycle handles).failed to start or even try. The air filter was filthy and I did my best to clean it with my compressor, but still no joy. Spark plug looked fine, fuel in the bulb and couldn't find any spark arrestor on my European model, but noticed some green stuff in the exhaust box holes so poked them and a load of green powder dust came out. Some critters must've made it their home over winter and blocked it. After a general degunge, gave it a pull and she fired first time. Will go order or buy a new air filter tomorrow, but the triangular bladed was needed over the smaller model wire today to cut some really tall thick weeds where as the wire would've been constantly requiring adjustment.
I had to replace the carb on my KM130 last week. Got an OEM one for $125. It wasn’t cheap, but that’s the first repair in 13 years. The machine runs like new now.
😅 i do the same you do.i am cheap.and when i fix equipment for friends.i ask them if they want oem parts or aftermarket.and they do the same.aftermarket parts.thank you for taking time to do this educational.videos.
As done on multiple times with a bunch of Stihl machines, I'll go with the "cheapo" carb versions. When it comes to 2-stroke oils, I made the switch to Echo's brand well over a year ago with excellent results - pissing off my Stihl certified master service tech along the way! Lol!
A neighbor brought over an antique Stihl chsainsaw and the carb was really messed up. A new OER carb was 'way too much $$$ so we bought a Chinesium version at $12.00. It included a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, a LOT of fuel line, the clunk/filter, the air filter and the carb. I put it on and in three pulls it was running perfectly. I never had to adjust anything! It's still running with the Amazon $12.00 carb three years later and - frankly - if I had to buy a new one for every new cutting season - we'd still be money ahead compared to buying just one Stihl carb.
One thing I always do when an engine won’t start is put in fresh fuel and remove the spark plug to add a bit of fuel directly into the chamber. It is surprising the number of times the machine starts and then just keeps running. I run the machine for 15 or 20 minute, which will tend to lubricate the diaphragms and unblock the carburetor.
Hey HG I find myself fixing 8 to 10 year old machines that are not on there last leg but have maybe a few years left on them. I find using OEM parts on a machine that is not worth the price of the part silly and bad investment into the machine . I am upfront with my customers and let them know I can get a clone carb for 1/2 the price of a OEM and they usually work out great . If I have a machine back becasue of the clone part I will replace it again easy. Now if I had a customer come in with new say blowder and can not get i to run for ny reason I would suggest a OEM part for the machine no question .
I ordered a carb. It came several weeks later from China. I put it in and it ran perfect without adjustment. I took out the little screen. Why do you need two intake filters. Now, I only use the high dollar gas but I only use the Stihl for the heavy jobs with the metal blade. For my normal trimming, I have a DeWalt, 60V trimmer with the companion blower and chain saw. At 87, I need to conserve energy and stress.
nope, not disappointed. Completely Understand. Would I prefer to replace with an OEM, sure. But I don't have the money. And if we're all being honest here, the OEM is probably made in China too... or where ever. I have repaired these carbs before, I use an ultra sonic cleaner, but yes first you want to clean the outside of the carb first. Which you'd want to do before you tear it down anyway. Then you often still need new gasket kits with diaphragms and etc, which usually cost at least $10 or more. With that said, I just spent a couple days cleaning a carb and reinstalling it, and it still did not run right. So I decided then, that I'm done with cleaning these carbs anymore. I'll buy replacements from now on, as it just isn't worth my time. I have far to much other work to do. So I ordered an aftermarket carb for $12.85 shipped. And I expect it will work just fine. If not, I got it from Amazon, so I'll just send it back and they still pay for the return shipping as well 👍
Good video. I like your style, and the way you think. If a part is not just total foreign junk, take the least costly one that will do the job right. It's the way things ought to be.
People just don’t know how to maintain or store equipment from one season to another. They are just to busy to do such mundane stuff, like storing their equipment properly. If it fails to start nex spring they will buy a new one. Every fall I set aside a day to put certain outdoor equipment in storage condition. I crank them up and let them warm up for five minutes. I then pour out all the gas, recrank them and let them idle until they stop for lack of gas. If they have a primer bulb I press it until it is empty while it is idling. I don’t want to leave any gas in the unit when I am through. I then wipe the off with a slightly oily shop rag and hang them up in my shop by their cutter head until next spring.
I like to remove the spark plug and drop in about 1/4 oz of oil on top of the piston. Pull the cord a few times to distribute the oil, and leave the piston at the top of the cylinder. I think my shindaiwa 242 manual said to do that for winterization.
@@MoDogburn that was the tied and true way to winterize an e 50 years ago but seldom practiced, today.. on my stable of Stihl saws I just warm them up, dump out any remaining gas and add a few ounces of Stihl Moto Mix and let them idle until they run out of gas. I then loosen the chain a few turns and put them on a shelf in the shop.
I'd probably give them the options and then it'd all be on them. If I hadn't broken the throttle shaft on the carb on the electric start I'd have cleaned/rebuilt it but had to get a knockoff BUT it works fine after I worked out the primer issue. Thanks and Happy Weekend
I would have first looked for an OEM carb rebuild kit. Second choice would have been an aftermarket rebuild kit. I want to keep as much original parts on my Stihl equipment as possible.
The real culprit in these carbs with the purger/primer bulb are the non return valves in their black base. If either of them leak the metering diaphragm will not function properly. Replacing that part will get the OE carb going. But the AM carbs are a hit or miss for this reason. Their non return valves dont hold properly sometimes out of the box. For this reason i have adapted after market chainsaw carbs on my FS130 and fitted a seperate purger that is used on the FS 120/200/250/400 etc. These carbs are more generous in their scope of H and L adjustments and offer a longer service life, though the initial work for adaptation is quite a lot. Post script. Sometimes the purger valves can be cleaned by pumping liquid detergent and water , with it fitted on a old carb body thathas no metering valve. But that is a gamble
ive had good luck with cleaning carbs never had to buy a aftermarket thank god but the only time i would consider is if it was my personal machine and i really liked it lol
@@briantii spot on. Stihl says once then you are good, but heh, nope, you gotta check those valves often. And it literally only takes 10 minutes, unlike what the dealership tries to bill you for.
@@briantii Yeah it's true, 10 minutes would also include finishing up the work order and waiting for the gasket and sealing ring from the parts dept to show up at your station. But the dealership will charge the customer and hour, plus shop supplies.... terrible.
With the carbon on the spark plug might check what kind of oil has been used to mix the fuel,maybe another brand would give less carbon (although the screen didn't look too bad)
well for me i,d check with the types of choices online and see what,s good on price depending on where i live and what the good reviews are on the products out there etc.
i use after market carbs all the time .i get things cheap or for free because of people using reg gas that has ethanol/water rather than premium /straight gas .the water tends to corrode the aluminum or gum them up not letting floats work .if anyone complains about what you do maybe they have ocd ...lolo good job on the video.
i have always been very apprehensive about aftermarket/knockoff carbs that aftermarket carb looks exactly the same as the original and performs well i'm quite surprised you didn't have to change the mixture screws my dad dropped off his honda 35cc brushcutter today saying its leaking fuel a quick look and its leaking tons of fuel out of the carb both sections where the membrane material seals the carb sections called honda $106AUD for a new carb i don't think so if its too far gone i will be going down the same road you did
The comment about the co worker who is better off in the same job 😅. I've been there but on the other spectrum with more vacation and pay than someone who has been there much longer. It's all about negotiation and making sure that the company understands that you are an asset vs liability. Not there anymore but I got in trouble for someone seeing a pay stub while in my vehicle. (Which was much nicer than coworkers) I didn't even show it but dude saw it. He didnt get the $3500 Christmas bonus but $700. He had a thats not my job type mentality, and I was more adaptable and would float around to help if needed. He still works there and is miserably content and I work for a nascar team. I'm also a middle school drop out with an outstanding amount of knowledge in electrochemical engineering, crane engineering, and R&D Tire engineer for race teams. I have no debt and own everything in my possession. Technically nobody ever owns anything I guess, not even freedom
Thank you a lot! I really like how you explained in your videos about how to fix this machines I hope I can fix my weed eater Fs91r which start but it dies…
I agree with your choice. I mean people can flame on all they want. It's the same carb with the high end name on it. BOTH are 9-10 made from the same people. A $90.00 part with the same $0.25 gaskets and diaphragms... why even bother paying 6x the price? $15.00, 1 day free delivery ... new parts that are actually warranted.. fixes the problem, back to making $65 a property. It's a string trimmer not a Ferrari FXX or a spaceship. You made a choice to wazoo the customer wallet or be efficient. I'm about to score this same model for $80 tomorrow so $15 it is lol
I would always start with a carb clean first in the ultrasonic tank, some carb cleaner and then replace the diaphragms. This works in most cases. If that doesn't work due to an inaccessible blocked passage or one-way valve, then I'd replace the carb. Some of the clone carbs come with problems. I had one with a mashed spring in the metering area and another with a tip on one of the jets missing and another with a missing non-return valve. The only 100% guaranteed fix is to put a new, genuine carb on, but they are expensive.
A few days ago, I was working on a newer echo string trimmer and when I was pulling on the rope to try to start it I noticed that it was pretty quiet which was strange but when I took off the spark arrestor screen I found the first problem the spark arrestor screen was completely clogged with carbon so much so that the engine was not starting on the feel that I put into the carpets throat but after I clean the spark arrestor screen the engines running really well
Mine had similar issues. I bought a cheap carb and stolen the parts failed on the oem one. Oem parts expensive and you can't always find them. Works like new after few hours of use.
I've gotten comfortable with off brand carbs when the cost of the repair gets close to the value of the equipment. OEM carbs are insanely high on a lot of stuff I've come across and rarely do I have any issues with the off brand ones.
Great video. Only thing is I was waiting to see if you would replace the fuel filter and how you would pop that cap off the fuel tank can you give me some insight into how you might do that mine looks exactly like yours, the cap that is and I'm afraid to break some plastic and removing it cuz I know my fuel filter is clogged but I can't get to it any other way. Thank you.
you mean the plastic spoon looking thing connected to the cap? Just use some pliers to grab it and pull it out. The spoon will "lightly" deform to allow it to come out.
The fuel looked clear , I gather you had it premixed though? Carb: I tend to weigh the value, $20 for a carb…done! It’s not cheap, it’s just not wasteful. The carbon always builds up, Good repair!
@@HomeGaragechannel not going to pay over a 100 just for OEM carburetor, for that price I can pick up 4 after market, after market carburetor came with new fuel lines filters primer bulbs n spark plug
A lot of carb issues , due to running dollar store 2 stroke oil, and letting your equipment sit , with fuel in it. Fuel turns to crap in 30 -40 days. Had the same stihl weedeater for 20 years, no issues, but o ly used Stihl 2 stroke oil. And when stored , treat the fuel with Sta-Bil. Bought myself a 99 R , third year , again no issues.
Hi there. I just bought a stihl r 91 trimmer from a pawn shop and it's not starting. I checked the air filter and fuel filter. When I push the Knob in after priming and pull the string it doesn't start and by pressing the orange button the valve doesn't move back to the original spot. I don't know what this means but I think it's supposed to move back when you push it down
Good fresh fuel w quality oil, ethanol free fuel is best. End of season use Trufuel, Motomix or good canned fuel. Same w snowblower. Mowers use the 4 cycle Trufuel. Your carbs will thank you.
I have a question about a Stihl blower. It’s a br400, we have changed the carburetor and the spark plug. We checked the compression. It’s all good but it only runs on starting fluid. What what you think the problem is.
I got an aftermarket carburettor from Ebay for 12 dollars, made in China, of course. When I took the original Stihl carburettor I saw that it was a Stihl carburettor but, made in China.
Well done Thanks for useful information I have fs450 sthil trimmer I need replace recoil but we haven't in our stores I need your advise from any brand to get recoil to can run it again
Thanks, this is very interesting as I've faced similar issues with my 2 strokes.What works for me is to buy an OEM rebuild kit if possible and then also, a pattern Chinese carb for standby.I found in my Stihl fs 50, strimmer , both diaphragms were very tired after only two seasons 😢, the fuel pump diaphragm seems to be made from acetate and the longevity is poor in my machine. So no problems for me with a pattern carb as it can't be any worse 🙃 .Best Regards and thanks again 😊 Ian 🇬🇧
sure, how many times have you tried pulling on the rope? Too many failed attempts to start it, might have flooded it. Give a day in the sun, then in the evening try starting it without the choke, then if it doesn't start, use your normal procedure
well, that's a tough one, if they were both treated well, probably pretty good, but mistreat the both of them, I'm going to guess the aftermarket carb wouldn't last as long. it's up to the owners to make that choice.
Great video, very informative. I just put a Chinese carb on a stihl FS 110 4 mix. It runs great but will not start unless I prime it with gas down the carb. Brand new purge bulb seems to work perfect. Any ideas why this would be? If I have to start it this way I can live with it cause after it starts it runs and restarts great. Thanks again.
I'm scratching my head on this one. If I recall that carb is purely a "choke" style carb, meaning if it's not starting with out "physical" priming, then there might be a problem with the machine. Have you done a compression test yet? I wonder if it's low, and causing the engine to have a tough time pulling the air and fuel into the engine.
In the UK these machines (I'm adjusting a km85r at the moment for a friend) are £800-£850 new. If I needed to get those 2 diaphragms new it would cost me £22.90. A new carb would be £75, with a machine this expensive to buy, I would stick to original parts. If I can afford the machine, I can afford to buy the parts from Stihl.
Hi I do not know if there any differences within the carbs oem or aftermarket. I tried one aftermarket on my medium high expensive trimmer. It do not run perfectly and it is not going smooth. I tried to adjust it but it does not help. BUt it could be some other issues like the compression. For me I have to buy a special adapter for the compression-tester to fit into the spark-plug hole. The new OEM was really expensive and I do not think that would help to buy a new one. I would never buy a OEM because of the high price and it is the same construction or almost the same. Tried many hours to clean carbs. That for me does take a long time and does not work for me. Tried air compression, sonar cleaner, brake-cleaner etc etc...I gave up...For me I have to check the compression next step. Thanks for the interesting vid.
was curious on the engine having valves when the oiled fuel was mentioned, apparently it’s a 4 stroke that doesn’t have a sump and uses the fuel oil mixture like a 2 stroke, funky
Hey thanks for your videos, Ive recently been given a FS 130 that runs very poorly. Ive been going through the check lists of things to do to get it running well again, i have recently ran into a problem where its very difficult to pull the string to start and feels jammed. Ive just checked the recoil assembly and adjusted the valves. but still having troubles. any idea where to look next or what it could be? Thanks!!
@@HomeGaragechannel Wow interesting when I pull the cord and the spark plug is off, it pulls fine. But when I put the spark plug back in it jams again. What could that be?
Did all these repairs and still not starting. Original problem was hard to start when hot. Also air filter was oiky? Discovered there is a gas tank vent that may be blocked but having trouble removing it. My KM90R is 10+ years old and used hard! Have vent ordered as stem seemed to have debris in it. Also w/e wouldn't run with air filter. Have you done video replacing tank vent?
@HomeGaragechannel yes, new carb, fuel lines, filters, new fuel lines, connector, new coil, plug. Last time it started it wouldn't run with air filter in? Vent arrived today. Will try starting it again before I take it apart again. Bulb fills up so don't think it's a fuel issue. If won't start I will try to change vent which appears hard to remove as was the connector. When I first took it apart air filter was oily, but didn't know why, I hadn't seen vent video!
i like that... going on a vacation and not really wanting to be there for how ever "long". Q. for ya though... if it were me i would like to keep the original carb. just to have on hand and know with careful handing i could have a successful o.e.m. rebuild, and to put that back into my stash for a rainy day. what would you think bout doing something like that or do you already have a small stash?!?
30 years as a certified OPE technician, and Stihl Master Service tech, and everything you did in this video is exactly what we do in the shop. Sure, I give the quote to the customer with the OEM carb, then another with a carb off Amazon, and truth be told, the Amazon cheapo carbs works just fine, my advice is just go with that. Never even bother wasting time trying to clean the carbs anymore, it's a simple matter if "when in doubt, throw it out" when it comes to carbs. One thing to remember though, Stihl's hate inferior 2 stroke oil. Try to stick with Stihl oil, Castrol (they make it for Stihl), Lucas Oil, or even Echo oil. Using cheap oil or outboard marine motor 2-stroke oil will destroy a Stihl in short order. I mean it, I cannot stress that enough, I have a boneyard of FS130's and BR600's that were only a few months old but were destroyed because the owners chose to run cheap oil in the fuel mix.
thank you TJ Clarke for your time and sharing your experience
Stihl 2-stroke oil is literally one of the worst... even if you buy a very cheap one, it will be fulfill the same JASO and ISO standards... look it up, I'm not joking
@@gnaedigerfels LOL, yeah sure, I thought that too when I was 19, until I learned better. I don't need to "look it up" I have my certs, so your comment isn't even worth wiping with. Go ahead, run your cheap oil in YOUR Stihl, but don't come whining back to the dealer or technician when it locks up on you. Another ham & egger. Sit down.
Next time you get a spark gap it at 0.30 and never ever put a pre gap plug in any engine always check the gap.
gotta get the full synthetic
@@gnaedigerfels
I’ve sold stihl equipment for 15 years and worked with top mechanics. Most of the problems we dealt with were bad gas , cheap oils or ethanol!
thanks for sharing
You made the correct decision...get the aftermarket carb, because more than likely it will last nearly as long.
The important point here is Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance....and keep maintaining it.
you are correct, hopefully though they'll take better care of it this time.
I just got through installing my new China carburetor kit . It was $19.98.Everything was easy, went back together perfectly! It even came with new hoses, two extra fuel filters, a spark plug, and two extra primer bulbs. Which I replaced all of it. Other than an idle adjustment, I didn't have to adjust anything else. And now the weedeater runs perfectly! Thanks for the info sir.
no problem and good work !
I find it far more economical and way less stressful to just buy an aftermarket carb. Some of the time they even include fuel filters, fuel line, extra bulbs, etc.
I feel the same way.
I recently put a new carb and gas tank on this exact weed eater. If I buy I new carb I try to buy one from my stihl dealer. They’re usually better quality than the cheap ones online.
@@calebmoody326you know that stihl does not make their own carburetors and you can buy them from the manufacturer for half the price right.
@@bobbyhempel1513 who's the manufacturer?
@@mtnmotoadvyou can normally see it on the carb of your Stihl product
I’ve been studying this video for six months - ordered the same carb kit three months ago - just installed it “as perfectly explained,by You” pulled the roped twice with the choke on, then once with it off, and, Eureka!!! My 2007 model started on the next pull. It runs like a new one, again. I can’t thank you enough. Salute 😊🫡
thanks but you did all the work, so congratulations!
I think you made the correct decision. You might have considered a carb kit, but those are pricey too. If you were running a commercial shop, let the owner decide, but you're doing this as a hobby..you get the idea. You got it running, that's what matters.
well said and it makes sense to me.
First, when I’m done using any of my two cycle equipment I dump gas back in the fuel/oil mix gas can I have. Then I start and run it until it quits. I was all the gas out of the carburetor that I can get out. I work on my own stuff and have used after market carbs on repairs I’ve made with very few issues. So I don’t fault you for using them. Thanks for the video.
wow, excellent methods and thank you ussreeves
My Echo straight shaft brush cutter, leaf blower and pole chainsaw all eventually would not start. I cleaned and put a kit in the brush cutter carb but it still wouldn't start so I installed a after market carb and it started right up and has been running perfect now for three years. When the other two machines quit I went with new carbs out of the gate. All three run great and start easily. I started using racing fuel three years ago and believe the ethanol free, leaded fuel with no additives helps keep the fuel systems in good working order when not being used regularly.
nice!
I've been watching many videos of fixing trimmer carburetors and this is, I believe, the best that I've seen so far. Straight forward, to the point and no fluff. Thanks for a great video. I will be looking out for you in the future.
thanks, that means a lot
@@FabianClarke-e2i he left out two important aspects :
the timing mark and being on the correct stroke. Better watch another video showing the complete process correctly.
i found that when you clean a spark arrestor, its best not to use a wire brush. This is because when scratched, it creates a much better bonding surface for the carbon to adhere to. I like to use compressed air, but most of the time you dont have to use either. Nice job, appreciate the fine work
thanks
Its best to throw the arrestor in the garbage lol
Just use a brass (instead of steel) brush
You did the right thing. I had the same issue and ordered an after-market carb from Amazon for $13.00. It saved me a lot of time, and it worked perfectly. 😊
thank you John Davis
Good video! Over the years as a farm equipment/ lawn & garden tech, I've grown into the "Never-seize" habit. Spark plugs, exhaust hardware, etc get a dab of the stuff.
interesting, I'll have to check it out.
Like the Franks’ Red Hot commercial, “I put that $#&@ on everything!” Lol
Working at a dealership of Stihl products i can say, yes stihl carbs are pricey. we've tried aftermarket and it's about a 50/50 shot they'll work. So we typically we stay away from them, just for the hassles sake and possible doubling the time invested in repairs. But for homeowners, i say go for it.
you make a good point, aftermarket is fairly "Iffy" and if you want an almost guarantee, go OEM.
@@MavericksGoosed
Most of the Stihl carburettors are made in China. The Fs38 is made in China now.
I feel like with quality fuel, oil, and maintenance, any carb will last sufficiently long to justify it. I use A LOT of aftermarket carbs, especially on 2 stroke equipment. I find cleaning them, even in my ultrasonic, is sometimes hit or miss. There's a lot of little check valves on the ones with the built-in primer bulbs. I use a small jar (Peanut butter, etc) that is clean to put my 2 cycle carbs into the ultrasonic. I use the same gas I would use in equipment, in the jar. I find this does a very good job on cleaning these items, and doesn't immerse it in even more dirt/grime than was already with it.
Ultrasonic makes it MUCH easier to clean the more gummed up mower/pressure washer carbs. I've put some pretty nasty ones in it, and with a good degreaser & dawn dish soap, they come out in much better shape. I still use my carb spray to rinse and help unclog small passages that may still require my pokey tool. I will disassemble the carb early in my process, put in the cleaner and during the 10-15 mins, allows me time to remove wheels (lubricating), sharpen blades, etc. Once it's done, I'm ready to assemble everything.
thank you for the advice and tips Matt Wickert
My FS40 had no spark. O bought an aftermarket coil and a carb. rebuild kit. After installation it still wouldn't start! Frustrated... I was looking online and found this. Your comment about cleaning the spark arrester made check mine, and was totally caked! I cleaned it and it started on the first pull... Thanks for your video!
no problem and thank you for the comment
Nothing wrong with ordering the aftermarket carb because it's an easy way to at least have a rebuild kit if the cheap carb doesn't work well you can use the parts to try rebuilding the original carb. It's a great plan 😁
nice, I thought it was a good idea .
@@HomeGaragechannel Yup it's a fantastic idea because you simply can't lose with that deal and it's only a $20 gamble in the first place. 👍👍👍😎😎😎
I like the thrill of the chase. Lol. It’s only a hobby for me. Sometimes I eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats me and I buy an aftermarket carb. No judgement either way as long as the darn thing gets up and running. Thanks for your time HG
well said and great comment!
The carb looked very clean but the diaphragms had hardened. I personally would have purchased a carb re-build kit and tried to correct the problem that way. If the rebuild failed, I would go with the aftermarket carb like you did. I have this trimmer BTW and did rebuild mine successfully.
Great point!
My older cousin has had this exact weedeater model for years in his lawn care business, and his still runs like a beast. Good chance I’ll invest a weedeater like this one, and also a straight shaft along with it.
that's a very good choice!
@@HomeGaragechannel it sure is! I have a string trimmer myself but it’s a Craftsman WC2200 curve shaft trimmer. She runs pretty good so far. I’ll keep her for a little while, but in the future, I’ll be buying that Stihl FS90R trimmer on the market, and sell my trimmer to someone else.
I love aftermarket carbs and always recommend them. Some customers still insist on OEM which is fine if they are willing to pay for it.
you got that right, but most customers are cheaper than you think. Thank you Brian King.
Nice job. Pro tips are awesome. Spend 10 minutes on the carb and if you need to replace go for it. I’d probably do the OEM but I’m not a small engine shop. Most customers would opt for aftermarket too!!
nothing wrong with it, and if there was any time an OEM carb is worth it, it would be on this machine, thank you Phil Del Giudice
Your videography has gotten quite good. You made the right decision on the carb. Your co-worker should be a happy customer.
thank you Marshall Collins
I have a new carb. from Amazon that just came in the mail for my Stihl trimmer. I didn't even go to the Stihl dealer and ask how much an OEM carb would cost when I saw the prices on Amazon. OEM prices are so out of line that if you can fix it yourself, it never pays to take it to the dealer for repairs. The price of OEM parts is the main culprit.
you bring up a good point about prices. I always wondered why they were so expensive
I just installed an aftermarket carb on my FS90 from 2007. It sat for a few years unused with gas in the tank. It was 10% ethanol pump gas too... I had ran a bunch of Seafoam in the gas and directly into the carb and combustion chamber. It ran but was sluggish getting up to speed and would bog down at anymore than 75% throttle. So the carb kit had 2 fuel filters, spare hoses, new plug and air filter, and even purge bulbs. It could not hurt to try.
The new carb worked great but I still need to tweak the low mixture screw and idle speed screw. I feel comfortable using it and it does not bog from idle to full throttle. It will be a backup to my new FS94 and will probably see a brush knife or a FixCut 31-2 head running .130 line.
In the meantime, the OEM Stihl carb will be soaked and rebuilt with an OEM Stihl Rebuild Kit. So using 3rd party carbs are a viable alternative.
nice work!
Bought new Stihl OEM carb 45$, after 11 mos stopped working ! Dealer told me to pound sand. 15$ Chinese carb (HIPA KIT) and back in business with new fuel lines,bulbs,plugs,filter included also. So Done with oem
wow that dealer was mad. Were you asking for a new OEM carb to replace it?
All it needed was a primer bulb and someone taking care of it. Made my KM90R since 2006 and still runs perfect. Primer bulbs dry out over the years and cracks are a vacuum leak - won't run. Ethanol free fuel is also key to no fuel system trouble.
you are correct!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have two STIHL Brush cutters, but the big FS 240 (not an R model, mine has motorcycle handles).failed to start or even try. The air filter was filthy and I did my best to clean it with my compressor, but still no joy. Spark plug looked fine, fuel in the bulb and couldn't find any spark arrestor on my European model, but noticed some green stuff in the exhaust box holes so poked them and a load of green powder dust came out. Some critters must've made it their home over winter and blocked it.
After a general degunge, gave it a pull and she fired first time. Will go order or buy a new air filter tomorrow, but the triangular bladed was needed over the smaller model wire today to cut some really tall thick weeds where as the wire would've been constantly requiring adjustment.
very nice work getting it working again!
Great video!!! One of the best How-to videos I've ever seen. You covered all the bases and questions and then some.
thank you very much
I had to replace the carb on my KM130 last week. Got an OEM one for $125. It wasn’t cheap, but that’s the first repair in 13 years. The machine runs like new now.
wow.. nice machine!
😅 i do the same you do.i am cheap.and when i fix equipment for friends.i ask them if they want oem parts or aftermarket.and they do the same.aftermarket parts.thank you for taking time to do this educational.videos.
no problem and thank you Christian Vasquez.
Thank you for your videos. I enjoy your troubleshooting process and your clear instructions. Please make more content.
I will and thank you Ruben Contreras
My older stihl stuff is still going .
Newer stihl stuff is too expensive.😊
And I've never had a problem with after market carbs.
nice, thank you for letting me know
If it is ok with your co worker then you did the right thing. Great video
I sure hope so, since they didn't tell much about it, I just did what I thought was right, thank you Growling Little Country homestead.
Had A Stihl Trimmer...Nothing But Carby Problems.Changed To A Honda...Perfect
great choice
As done on multiple times with a bunch of Stihl machines, I'll go with the "cheapo" carb versions. When it comes to 2-stroke oils, I made the switch to Echo's brand well over a year ago with excellent results - pissing off my Stihl certified master service tech along the way! Lol!
LOL!! Nice.
I usually just buy a rebuild kit. It has all the parts I need and it costs less than an amazon carburetor.
that works too.
A neighbor brought over an antique Stihl chsainsaw and the carb was really messed up. A new OER carb was 'way too much $$$ so we bought a Chinesium version at $12.00.
It included a new spark plug, a new ignition coil, a LOT of fuel line, the clunk/filter, the air filter and the carb.
I put it on and in three pulls it was running perfectly. I never had to adjust anything!
It's still running with the Amazon $12.00 carb three years later and - frankly - if I had to buy a new one for every new cutting season - we'd still be money ahead compared to buying just one Stihl carb.
wow nice, and yes for what they are, the aftermarket works great!
You did exactly what I would've done....Nothing wrong with doing a budget repair job.
thank you!
One thing I always do when an engine won’t start is put in fresh fuel and remove the spark plug to add a bit of fuel directly into the chamber. It is surprising the number of times the machine starts and then just keeps running. I run the machine for 15 or 20 minute, which will tend to lubricate the diaphragms and unblock the carburetor.
it works sometimes, but you can't always save a hardened diaphragm that needs replacing.
@@HomeGaragechannel definitely does not always work but it is worth a try! Thx for another excellent video
no problem and thank you
After market carbs work good for the most way to go
I think so, I don't think they'll last as long as the OEM but with care, it will last a few years.
Hey HG I find myself fixing 8 to 10 year old machines that are not on there last leg but have maybe a few years left on them. I find using OEM parts on a machine that is not worth the price of the part silly and bad investment into the machine . I am upfront with my customers and let them know I can get a clone carb for 1/2 the price of a OEM and they usually work out great . If I have a machine back becasue of the clone part I will replace it again easy. Now if I had a customer come in with new say blowder and can not get i to run for ny reason I would suggest a OEM part for the machine no question .
Bty the way my dad had one of those syhl trimmers you could not kill it put a blade on it and it would slice through sablins like butter .
I like the way you put it.
that sounds like a great idea!
I ordered a carb. It came several weeks later from China. I put it in and it ran perfect without adjustment. I took out the little screen. Why do you need two intake filters. Now, I only use the high dollar gas but I only use the Stihl for the heavy jobs with the metal blade. For my normal trimming, I have a DeWalt, 60V trimmer with the companion blower and chain saw.
At 87, I need to conserve energy and stress.
very nice, as for the filters, the outside one is meant for larger items like grass and it's easier clean.
nope, not disappointed. Completely Understand. Would I prefer to replace with an OEM, sure. But I don't have the money. And if we're all being honest here, the OEM is probably made in China too... or where ever.
I have repaired these carbs before, I use an ultra sonic cleaner, but yes first you want to clean the outside of the carb first. Which you'd want to do before you tear it down anyway. Then you often still need new gasket kits with diaphragms and etc, which usually cost at least $10 or more.
With that said, I just spent a couple days cleaning a carb and reinstalling it, and it still did not run right. So I decided then, that I'm done with cleaning these carbs anymore. I'll buy replacements from now on, as it just isn't worth my time. I have far to much other work to do. So I ordered an aftermarket carb for $12.85 shipped. And I expect it will work just fine. If not, I got it from Amazon, so I'll just send it back and they still pay for the return shipping as well 👍
I really like this comment, and I couldn't have said it better myself.
Good video. I like your style, and the way you think. If a part is not just total foreign junk, take the least costly one that will do the job right. It's the way things ought to be.
I appreciate that!
People just don’t know how to maintain or store equipment from one season to another. They are just to busy to do such mundane stuff, like storing their equipment properly. If it fails to start nex spring they will buy a new one. Every fall I set aside a day to put certain outdoor equipment in storage condition. I crank them up and let them warm up for five minutes. I then pour out all the gas, recrank them and let them idle until they stop for lack of gas. If they have a primer bulb I press it until it is empty while it is idling. I don’t want to leave any gas in the unit when I am through. I then wipe the off with a slightly oily shop rag and hang them up in my shop by their cutter head until next spring.
you couldn't have said it any better.
I like to remove the spark plug and drop in about 1/4 oz of oil on top of the piston. Pull the cord a few times to distribute the oil, and leave the piston at the top of the cylinder. I think my shindaiwa 242 manual said to do that for winterization.
@@MoDogburn that was the tied and true way to winterize an e 50 years ago but seldom practiced, today.. on my stable of Stihl saws I just warm them up, dump out any remaining gas and add a few ounces of Stihl Moto Mix and let them idle until they run out of gas. I then loosen the chain a few turns and put them on a shelf in the shop.
I'd probably give them the options and then it'd all be on them. If I hadn't broken the throttle shaft on the carb on the electric start I'd have cleaned/rebuilt it but had to get a knockoff BUT it works fine after I worked out the primer issue. Thanks and Happy Weekend
that's a good idea.
@@HomeGaragechannel I get blamed for enough as it is so if I can spread it around it works better. Cuts down on the hollering.
Personally I would have gone with an OEM carb kit, but aftermarket is fine too.
you're right the OEM carb would best
I would have first looked for an OEM carb rebuild kit. Second choice would have been an aftermarket rebuild kit. I want to keep as much original parts on my Stihl equipment as possible.
that makes sense
The real culprit in these carbs with the purger/primer bulb are the non return valves in their black base. If either of them leak the metering diaphragm will not function properly. Replacing that part will get the OE carb going. But the AM carbs are a hit or miss for this reason. Their non return valves dont hold properly sometimes out of the box. For this reason i have adapted after market chainsaw carbs on my FS130 and fitted a seperate purger that is used on the FS 120/200/250/400 etc. These carbs are more generous in their scope of H and L adjustments and offer a longer service life, though the initial work for adaptation is quite a lot. Post script. Sometimes the purger valves can be cleaned by pumping liquid detergent and water , with it fitted on a old carb body thathas no metering valve. But that is a gamble
thank you for sharing that
If the after market carb works just fine,then that’s the one I would be buying. Good choice my friend.
thank you William Snow.
ive had good luck with cleaning carbs never had to buy a aftermarket thank god but the only time i would consider is if it was my personal machine and i really liked it lol
nice, how many have you had to clean do you think?
Maybe 14 or less im still new to these machines I love learning bout how they work though
I find the 4mix engines have a lot more issues than the good old 2 stroke engines
I've heard the same thing too.
Personally I’ve had better luck with the 4mix, though I have found valve adjustments are needed more often than Stihl claims.
@@briantii spot on. Stihl says once then you are good, but heh, nope, you gotta check those valves often. And it literally only takes 10 minutes, unlike what the dealership tries to bill you for.
@@tjclarke4604 And 10 minutes is if you're really taking your time. It's crazy how quick and simple it is to do.
@@briantii Yeah it's true, 10 minutes would also include finishing up the work order and waiting for the gasket and sealing ring from the parts dept to show up at your station. But the dealership will charge the customer and hour, plus shop supplies.... terrible.
Same issue with my Stihl. Used after market carb which worked fine.
Good to know
I cleaned my stock carb and ordered a $9 rebuild kit. $11 Cheaper than an aftermarket carb.
nice work!
With the carbon on the spark plug might check what kind of oil has been used to mix the fuel,maybe another brand would give less carbon (although the screen didn't look too bad)
good idea
well for me i,d check with the types of choices online and see what,s good on price depending on where i live and what the good reviews are on the products out there etc.
I always forget to check the Reviews, but I think that's important too.
In this situation, the cheap carb, it works and unless the customer changes his ways a OEM carb would be a waste of money.
you make a good point
i use after market carbs all the time .i get things cheap or for free because of people using reg gas that has ethanol/water rather than premium /straight gas .the water tends to corrode the aluminum or gum them up not letting floats work .if anyone complains about what you do maybe they have ocd ...lolo good job on the video.
great choice
Thanks for sharing. You’re knowledgeable on this subject matter, it’s greatly appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
i have always been very apprehensive about aftermarket/knockoff carbs that aftermarket carb looks exactly the same as the original and performs well i'm quite surprised you didn't have to change the mixture screws my dad dropped off his honda 35cc brushcutter today saying its leaking fuel a quick look and its leaking tons of fuel out of the carb both sections where the membrane material seals the carb sections called honda $106AUD for a new carb i don't think so if its too far gone i will be going down the same road you did
I understand what you're saying
The comment about the co worker who is better off in the same job 😅. I've been there but on the other spectrum with more vacation and pay than someone who has been there much longer. It's all about negotiation and making sure that the company understands that you are an asset vs liability. Not there anymore but I got in trouble for someone seeing a pay stub while in my vehicle. (Which was much nicer than coworkers) I didn't even show it but dude saw it. He didnt get the $3500 Christmas bonus but $700. He had a thats not my job type mentality, and I was more adaptable and would float around to help if needed. He still works there and is miserably content and I work for a nascar team. I'm also a middle school drop out with an outstanding amount of knowledge in electrochemical engineering, crane engineering, and R&D Tire engineer for race teams. I have no debt and own everything in my possession. Technically nobody ever owns anything I guess, not even freedom
Thank you a lot! I really like how you explained in your videos about how to fix this machines I hope I can fix my weed eater Fs91r which start but it dies…
thank you and good luck
I have a fs 131 and i'm having trouble cranking it, we have to take off the air filter cover for it to start but once it starts it is good to go.
interesting, I've never seen that problem first hand
I agree with your choice. I mean people can flame on all they want. It's the same carb with the high end name on it. BOTH are 9-10 made from the same people. A $90.00 part with the same $0.25 gaskets and diaphragms... why even bother paying 6x the price? $15.00, 1 day free delivery ... new parts that are actually warranted.. fixes the problem, back to making $65 a property. It's a string trimmer not a Ferrari FXX or a spaceship. You made a choice to wazoo the customer wallet or be efficient. I'm about to score this same model for $80 tomorrow so $15 it is lol
thanks I appreciate that
I would always start with a carb clean first in the ultrasonic tank, some carb cleaner and then replace the diaphragms. This works in most cases. If that doesn't work due to an inaccessible blocked passage or one-way valve, then I'd replace the carb. Some of the clone carbs come with problems. I had one with a mashed spring in the metering area and another with a tip on one of the jets missing and another with a missing non-return valve. The only 100% guaranteed fix is to put a new, genuine carb on, but they are expensive.
that sounds like a plan
A few days ago, I was working on a newer echo string trimmer and when I was pulling on the rope to try to start it I noticed that it was pretty quiet which was strange but when I took off the spark arrestor screen I found the first problem the spark arrestor screen was completely clogged with carbon so much so that the engine was not starting on the feel that I put into the carpets throat but after I clean the spark arrestor screen the engines running really well
hey nice work!
Thanks😁
Some of the aftermarket carbs are better quality than others, I try to replace the gaskets/diaphragms but if the carb pretty bad, then I’ll replace.
you are correct, thank you Shoney's small engines
Mine had similar issues.
I bought a cheap carb and stolen the parts failed on the oem one.
Oem parts expensive and you can't always find them.
Works like new after few hours of use.
nice work, and thank you for your time Ingihan
I've gotten comfortable with off brand carbs when the cost of the repair gets close to the value of the equipment. OEM carbs are insanely high on a lot of stuff I've come across and rarely do I have any issues with the off brand ones.
you got that right, it's about money, and thats it for me. Thank you Shaun Riley
Great video. Only thing is I was waiting to see if you would replace the fuel filter and how you would pop that cap off the fuel tank can you give me some insight into how you might do that mine looks exactly like yours, the cap that is and I'm afraid to break some plastic and removing it cuz I know my fuel filter is clogged but I can't get to it any other way. Thank you.
you mean the plastic spoon looking thing connected to the cap? Just use some pliers to grab it and pull it out. The spoon will "lightly" deform to allow it to come out.
The fuel looked clear , I gather you had it premixed though? Carb: I tend to weigh the value, $20 for a carb…done! It’s not cheap, it’s just not wasteful. The carbon always builds up, Good repair!
thanks
I have a fs90r.i love it! I start my equip,in the winter,
very nice!
I put a after market carburetor on my fs38, works like a drsam, at end of the season I'll drain the gas n run full throttle till it dies
nice work and great choice
@@HomeGaragechannel not going to pay over a 100 just for OEM carburetor, for that price I can pick up 4 after market, after market carburetor came with new fuel lines filters primer bulbs n spark plug
I would ask the owner which way he wanted to go, but for me, after market carb.
best choice ever
A lot of carb issues , due to running dollar store 2 stroke oil, and letting your equipment sit , with fuel in it. Fuel turns to crap in 30 -40 days. Had the same stihl weedeater for 20 years, no issues, but o ly used Stihl 2 stroke oil. And when stored , treat the fuel with Sta-Bil. Bought myself a 99 R , third year , again no issues.
thank you Ronnie Cox
Hi there. I just bought a stihl r 91 trimmer from a pawn shop and it's not starting. I checked the air filter and fuel filter. When I push the Knob in after priming and pull the string it doesn't start and by pressing the orange button the valve doesn't move back to the original spot. I don't know what this means but I think it's supposed to move back when you push it down
have you considered looking up the owners manual for the trimmer?
Good fresh fuel w quality oil, ethanol free fuel is best. End of season use Trufuel, Motomix or good canned fuel. Same w snowblower. Mowers use the 4 cycle Trufuel. Your carbs will thank you.
very true!
Excellent video and audio. Thank you very much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have a question about a Stihl blower. It’s a br400, we have changed the carburetor and the spark plug. We checked the compression. It’s all good but it only runs on starting fluid. What what you think the problem is.
answered this question already
Very helpful video, very nicely done too. Much appreciated👍
Glad it was helpful!
I got an aftermarket carburettor from Ebay for 12 dollars, made in China, of course.
When I took the original Stihl carburettor I saw that it was a Stihl carburettor but, made in China.
I know right!
Well done
Thanks for useful information
I have fs450 sthil trimmer I need replace recoil but we haven't in our stores I need your advise from any brand to get recoil to can run it again
I really don't have any resources to help out.
@@HomeGaragechannel I need your e mail address for more information
Thanks, this is very interesting as I've faced similar issues with my 2 strokes.What works for me is to buy an OEM rebuild kit if possible and then also, a pattern Chinese carb for standby.I found in my Stihl fs 50, strimmer , both diaphragms were very tired after only two seasons 😢, the fuel pump diaphragm seems to be made from acetate and the longevity is poor in my machine. So no problems for me with a pattern carb as it can't be any worse 🙃 .Best Regards and thanks again 😊 Ian 🇬🇧
thank you Ian.
Hi, I’ve changed my fuel filter on my strimmer, was working perfectly before hand and now won’t start? Any ideas?
sure, how many times have you tried pulling on the rope? Too many failed attempts to start it, might have flooded it. Give a day in the sun, then in the evening try starting it without the choke, then if it doesn't start, use your normal procedure
Very good video , I agree with the after market carb
thank you Michael Martt
How long would the oem carb last vs aftermarket? If there's no difference is the right move.
well, that's a tough one, if they were both treated well, probably pretty good, but mistreat the both of them, I'm going to guess the aftermarket carb wouldn't last as long. it's up to the owners to make that choice.
I usually keep the old carb order a rebuild kit and then do it up when I have the time hey when another one comes in you have a working carb
good idea
Great video, very informative. I just put a Chinese carb on a stihl FS 110 4 mix. It runs great but will not start unless I prime it with gas down the carb. Brand new purge bulb seems to work perfect. Any ideas why this would be? If I have to start it this way I can live with it cause after it starts it runs and restarts great. Thanks again.
I'm scratching my head on this one. If I recall that carb is purely a "choke" style carb, meaning if it's not starting with out "physical" priming, then there might be a problem with the machine. Have you done a compression test yet? I wonder if it's low, and causing the engine to have a tough time pulling the air and fuel into the engine.
In the UK these machines (I'm adjusting a km85r at the moment for a friend) are £800-£850 new. If I needed to get those 2 diaphragms new it would cost me £22.90. A new carb would be £75, with a machine this expensive to buy, I would stick to original parts. If I can afford the machine, I can afford to buy the parts from Stihl.
you make a good point
Hi I do not know if there any differences within the carbs oem or aftermarket. I tried one aftermarket on my medium high expensive trimmer. It do not run perfectly and it is not going smooth. I tried to adjust it but it does not help. BUt it could be some other issues like the compression. For me I have to buy a special adapter for the compression-tester to fit into the spark-plug hole. The new OEM was really expensive and I do not think that would help to buy a new one. I would never buy a OEM because of the high price and it is the same construction or almost the same. Tried many hours to clean carbs. That for me does take a long time and does not work for me. Tried air compression, sonar cleaner, brake-cleaner etc etc...I gave up...For me I have to check the compression next step. Thanks for the interesting vid.
no problem and hope you figure it out.
was curious on the engine having valves when the oiled fuel was mentioned, apparently it’s a 4 stroke that doesn’t have a sump and uses the fuel oil mixture like a 2 stroke, funky
yes you are correct, it's quite ingenious but the design is a bit over kill.
i used to have this same machine gearbox maybe was gone but i did some redneck engineering and the head worked again.
redneck engineering sometimes is the best thing u can do
nothing wrong with that
"Redneck engineering" hahahahahahaha
well if i did something wrong with the redneck engineering it might kill me or injure someone so i dont do it anymore.
I would of done the same thing. Great repair 👍🙏👍🙏
thank you RayFpv.
Taking the screen out is the best solution to fix a clogged spark arrestor
it's an easy way to fix it for sure
Hey thanks for your videos, Ive recently been given a FS 130 that runs very poorly. Ive been going through the check lists of things to do to get it running well again, i have recently ran into a problem where its very difficult to pull the string to start and feels jammed. Ive just checked the recoil assembly and adjusted the valves. but still having troubles. any idea where to look next or what it could be? Thanks!!
interesting, take the plug out and then try pulling it and see if anything comes out of the spark plug opening.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thank you ill give it a try and let you know !
@@HomeGaragechannel Wow interesting when I pull the cord and the spark plug is off, it pulls fine. But when I put the spark plug back in it jams again. What could that be?
is the plug the right one? if the plug is too long it will make contact with the piston
@@HomeGaragechannel Well I’ve had it running before with that same plug in
Great instructional video thanks
thanks
I mean you could literally replace the carb 3 times aftermarket over the oem one, I'm with you, for my money im buying aftermarket
thank you for understanding, it just makes good money sense
Did all these repairs and still not starting. Original problem was hard to start when hot. Also air filter was oiky? Discovered there is a gas tank vent that may be blocked but having trouble removing it. My KM90R is 10+ years old and used hard! Have vent ordered as stem seemed to have debris in it. Also w/e wouldn't run with air filter. Have you done video replacing tank vent?
no I've never had to deal with the tank vent before. Have you considered a new carb yet?
@HomeGaragechannel yes, new carb, fuel lines, filters, new fuel lines, connector, new coil, plug. Last time it started it wouldn't run with air filter in? Vent arrived today. Will try starting it again before I take it apart again. Bulb fills up so don't think it's a fuel issue. If won't start I will try to change vent which appears hard to remove as was the connector. When I first took it apart air filter was oily, but didn't know why, I hadn't seen vent video!
i like that... going on a vacation and not really wanting to be there for how ever "long". Q. for ya though... if it were me i would like to keep the original carb. just to have on hand and know with careful handing i could have a successful o.e.m. rebuild, and to put that back into my stash for a rainy day. what would you think bout doing something like that or do you already have a small stash?!?
I have a stash of metering diaphragms but I don't carry full kits, simply too expensive