Peter….. every time I watch one of your repairs, you ALWAYS explain your thoughts and procedures - why it happened or due to lack of maintenance. Always learning Peter ! Thanks for teaching. 😊
Belts and how tight they should be it’s kind of a science in itself! I think that’s a great approach, getting it tighter and then turning on the car and seeing if it goes away. Never good to put too much tension than what is needed. Great job Peter.
Thank u very much for the walk thru and details that I've Not seen elsewhere. You helped me tremendously as it was my first ever diy oil change on my Tundra and no one in 50 or so I watched previous to finding u, gave any indication about the skid plate and how difficult it is to remove. Nor did they give such details that would be more than just helpful as you did. Much respect and appreciation for your assistance and I will definitely be tuning into your channel for future assistance.
Very thorough methodical troubleshooting and fix Herr Peter. Gives me the confidence and knowledge to upkeep and repair as needed my 2000 5vzfe Tacoma.
Just found you here aswell Peter, doesnt matter that i have a diesel mercedes, it is you that we like watching and explaining things ! I service friends cars so all knowledge is good !!
I had a UK model Toyota Yaris XP90, 2006 model year, with the 1.3 2SZ-FE engine, and from getting that car from just 22000 miles on odometer, the serpentine belt was always a constant source of chirping and squeeking when the car was started from cold, and this was worse in damp or cold weather. Once the engine warmed up, the noise stopped and the belt drive was quiet, but once the car had been stood and cooled down, the noise would come back on the next startup. Despite replacing the belt and tensioning it using the same method you used - it did not have an automatic belt tensioner, the noise would stop for a while, but then return. The issue appeared to be caused by a misalignment of the pulleys, causing the belt to not run true over the idler pulley that was in contact with the smooth side of the reverse of the belt, much like the way the reverse side of the belt ran over the water pump on your car. The smooth side was slipping when it was cold, but seemed to grip the idler pulley when warmed up, and the squeek would stop. In the end I just lived with the noise for all 7 years I owned the car and now I have a newer 2014 Toyota Yaris XP130 with the 1.33 1NR-FE engine and that has an automatic belt tensioner, so the belt runs quietly.
Thankyou. I recently snapped both transaxles in my 2002 echo at 190,000km. I had them replaced by Toyota at a reasonable cost and now I'm getting 2L/100 improvement in fuel consumption. Very surprising!
My corolla had the squeak sometimes at the cold start in the mornings. I thought it could be the timing chain tensioner rattle. After watching your video I tensioned the Serpentine belt as you showed and the squeak is gone. Thank you Peter!
A year ago I picked up a 2003 Corolla with 170,000 miles for $200.. she wasn't in the best of shape and she wasn't taken care of well but I've taken care of all that and I painted it while I was at it and she runs like a top now...
From experience I had an Used FJ Cruiser with a squealing noise I thought it was an idler bearing which I replaced. Also the tensioner bearing was replaced. Still squeaking persisted someone had an aftermarket serpentine belt I installed a Toyota OEM belt squealing disappeared. Aftermarket serpentine belts are garbage at least for Toyota. 😊
Peter..The original Toyota belt on my '10 Corolla LE only screeched on cold startups when the weather was cold. The Dayco belt that I have on the car now makes the screeching sound on any cold startup. Also, on cold startups I hear the dreaded VVTi rattle on my 2010 Corolla Le with 124k. Should I check the belt tension or is my issue more of the VVTi rattle noise? Or maybe change the belt with a Toyota belt?
I got a start-up squeal on my 2010 Toyota Tundra…. It has a tensioner, so I can’t adjust the alternator. I just put in a new Toyota OEM belt, as soon as I cranked it, squealed for 2 seconds, then stopped…..it was starting good for two weeks, and now it just squeals every day. I figured out that if I turn the ignition key Too Fast, it will squeal, when I turn the ignition key as slow as I can go…..NO SQUEAL. Now another thing…. When I turn the key fast and it squeals, it will squeal for a good 15 seconds. Then, Something in the engine compartment engages and it immediately stops. It stops when something engages and the idle slows down, the squealing stops.
Another RUclips video quoted an alternator belt Toyota spec of 1/2" deflection for a belt run over 7", 1/4" (about 6 mm) for under 7". Tightening to 2 mm deflection may be too much. I thought I could hear some bearing noise after tightening this much and starting the engine.
In the age of the dinosaurs when cars didn't have automatic spring loaded belt tensioners, whenever you installed a new belt, you had to tighten everything, then run the engine for a couple of minutes, then tighten the belt tension again. If you didn't do that, the belt would slip and wear prematurely due to slipping on the pulleys after the belt stretched. Of course, back then belts weren't made of Kevlar. Don't get your fingers between the belt and any of the pulleys, and have the tool holding the spring tensioner open, slip out of the tensioner. Some of those spring tensioners put some serious force on those belts. And you know how Murphy's Law likes to manifest itself.
Hey what's your take on this me my buddy other people gone over 300k same transmission fluid. With sealed units maybe it's really best to leave alone before do harm
Love the video Peter! I actually feel that the Gates belt should have been replaced with either original Toyota or Continental, didn’t seem to sit perfectly inside the pulley and look thin for some reason. Plus it seems that the car needs some TLC so I would have recommended new spark plugs since it is that time to change and you have the car in the shop anyway. Also I would do a drain and fill of the Transmission Fluid with WS since it is also around the time to change it. You rock Peter!
There is a very easy hack to make this belt stop doing this.....turn the starter key slowly instead of fast. Not kidding! The alternator computer cant process info fast enough so the alternator is locked up thinking full load, making the belt slip across it for a second. If u turn the key slowly, it gives it enough time to lighten up while starting.
I put a Gates belt on my 4Runner and it would chirp on startup when cold. I took it off and replaced it with Mitsuboshi belt from the dealer. Problem solved.
Had the same problem on my son's 2012 Yaris except a 3 year old non-Toyota belt broke on the interstate. Needless to say car was towed home. Got a new TOYOTA belt and installed but was surprised at the tension method for the belt. Just like the old cars from the 60's and 70's. Get a pry bar and tighten top bolt while keeping tension on the belt! Not an adjusting screw on top like the 09 Corolla your working on. NOT TOYOTA LIKE! But so far so good. Oh and BTW I have the tool Toyota calls for to check tension. NOPE! Only way I see to use it is remove the engine! Stupid and also not Toyota like.
Yup, run them into the ground is the cheapest. buy it used for 10k, oil, brake, tire changes, max 1-2k a year in repairs, run her till she don't go any more get another one. Cars are a waste of money but many need them. I had a 2006 sienna 320k klicks on it and the xmsn quit, $4000cdn to repair/replace. Found a 2004 sienna with 200k klicks for $3500. The siennas xmsn is not as bad as the dodge but still not that great. Don't waste money on lipstick and mascara, just keep her running and throw it away. After purchase, I budget max 2k a year for repairs, oil, brakes and tires, after that the car is not worth keeping
Peter, stop making excuses for the poor replacement of the alternator. Any mechanic knows how to adjust the proper tension of the belt. Also the belt probably should be changed. You should have checked it for your customer. I believe that the customer and/or his or her relative or friend did that poor install. Just ask and they should tell you. They even took off the rubber protector from the positive terminal to the alternator.
Авто/Мото
Peter….. every time I watch one of your repairs, you ALWAYS explain your thoughts and procedures - why it happened or due to lack of maintenance.
Always learning Peter !
Thanks for teaching. 😊
You’re the best Peter!! Thank you for sharing ❤
Belts and how tight they should be it’s kind of a science in itself! I think that’s a great approach, getting it tighter and then turning on the car and seeing if it goes away. Never good to put too much tension than what is needed. Great job Peter.
Thank u very much for the walk thru and details that I've Not seen elsewhere. You helped me tremendously as it was my first ever diy oil change on my Tundra and no one in 50 or so I watched previous to finding u, gave any indication about the skid plate and how difficult it is to remove. Nor did they give such details that would be more than just helpful as you did. Much respect and appreciation for your assistance and I will definitely be tuning into your channel for future assistance.
Very thorough methodical troubleshooting and fix Herr Peter. Gives me the confidence and knowledge to upkeep and repair as needed my 2000 5vzfe Tacoma.
Just found you here aswell Peter, doesnt matter that i have a diesel mercedes, it is you that we like watching and explaining things ! I service friends cars so all knowledge is good !!
Great analysis.
Appreciate thorough explanation.
Thank you Petr!
I had a UK model Toyota Yaris XP90, 2006 model year, with the 1.3 2SZ-FE engine, and from getting that car from just 22000 miles on odometer, the serpentine belt was always a constant source of chirping and squeeking when the car was started from cold, and this was worse in damp or cold weather. Once the engine warmed up, the noise stopped and the belt drive was quiet, but once the car had been stood and cooled down, the noise would come back on the next startup. Despite replacing the belt and tensioning it using the same method you used - it did not have an automatic belt tensioner, the noise would stop for a while, but then return. The issue appeared to be caused by a misalignment of the pulleys, causing the belt to not run true over the idler pulley that was in contact with the smooth side of the reverse of the belt, much like the way the reverse side of the belt ran over the water pump on your car. The smooth side was slipping when it was cold, but seemed to grip the idler pulley when warmed up, and the squeek would stop.
In the end I just lived with the noise for all 7 years I owned the car and now I have a newer 2014 Toyota Yaris XP130 with the 1.33 1NR-FE engine and that has an automatic belt tensioner, so the belt runs quietly.
I really enjoy watching your videos because they are so informative and your worksite is always neat and orderly.
Belt stretched over time old cars from the 70s had to be adjusted when doing a tune up great video!
Thankyou. I recently snapped both transaxles in my 2002 echo at 190,000km. I had them replaced by Toyota at a reasonable cost and now I'm getting 2L/100 improvement in fuel consumption. Very surprising!
My corolla had the squeak sometimes at the cold start in the mornings. I thought it could be the timing chain tensioner rattle. After watching your video I tensioned the Serpentine belt as you showed and the squeak is gone. Thank you Peter!
Thank you Peter. Very educational videos my friend. Cheers.
Love this guy
Thanks for the great video and explanation. I always enjoy your video channel. Be well, Peter!
In a while, crocodile!
Nice work, Sir!
Good job my friend all ways learning from you tanks you Fresno California
Good 👍🏻 video !!
Petr, Let us hope the next 106,000 miles of this Corolla's life are easier than the first 106,000 miles. 😁
Many thanks!
Peter the GREAT.
I love to see the professionals at work
A year ago I picked up a 2003 Corolla with 170,000 miles for $200.. she wasn't in the best of shape and she wasn't taken care of well but I've taken care of all that and I painted it while I was at it and she runs like a top now...
What is your accent?? It’s one of the reasons I subscribed lol
The 2014-2019 Corolla has the same 2ZR-FE engine as Toyota carried the engine over when the redesigned the Corolla for the 2014 model year
From experience I had an Used FJ Cruiser with a squealing noise I thought it was an idler bearing which I replaced. Also the tensioner bearing was replaced. Still squeaking persisted someone had an aftermarket serpentine belt I installed a Toyota OEM belt squealing disappeared. Aftermarket serpentine belts are garbage at least for Toyota. 😊
Maybe a hydro-locked AC compressor from DIY refer experts.
First thing I noticed was the clean threads on the adjustment bolt. Obviously not even close to where it was originally.
Peter..The original Toyota belt on my '10 Corolla LE only screeched on cold startups when the weather was cold. The Dayco belt that I have on the car now makes the screeching sound on any cold startup. Also, on cold startups I hear the dreaded VVTi rattle on my 2010 Corolla Le with 124k. Should I check the belt tension or is my issue more of the VVTi rattle noise? Or maybe change the belt with a Toyota belt?
The paper clip on the rear wheel well isn’t a good sign for your patient … great squeaky belt diagnosis and repair Doctor! 👍🏼
Can see the adjustment bolt shaft has a clean section where the original was loosen.
Looks like I’ll be doing this fix tonight😂
I love the clip on the left rear 😂
I was thinking the same thing myself. Classic fix right there.
tht's the "office area"
I got a start-up squeal on my 2010 Toyota Tundra…. It has a tensioner, so I can’t adjust the alternator. I just put in a new Toyota OEM belt, as soon as I cranked it, squealed for 2 seconds, then stopped…..it was starting good for two weeks, and now it just squeals every day. I figured out that if I turn the ignition key Too Fast, it will squeal, when I turn the ignition key as slow as I can go…..NO SQUEAL.
Now another thing…. When I turn the key fast and it squeals, it will squeal for a good 15 seconds. Then, Something in the engine compartment engages and it immediately stops. It stops when something engages and the idle slows down, the squealing stops.
Another RUclips video quoted an alternator belt Toyota spec of 1/2" deflection for a belt run over 7", 1/4" (about 6 mm) for under 7".
Tightening to 2 mm deflection may be too much. I thought I could hear some bearing noise after tightening this much and starting the engine.
In the age of the dinosaurs when cars didn't have automatic spring loaded belt tensioners, whenever you installed a new belt, you had to tighten everything, then run the engine for a couple of minutes, then tighten the belt tension again. If you didn't do that, the belt would slip and wear prematurely due to slipping on the pulleys after the belt stretched. Of course, back then belts weren't made of Kevlar.
Don't get your fingers between the belt and any of the pulleys, and have the tool holding the spring tensioner open, slip out of the tensioner. Some of those spring tensioners put some serious force on those belts. And you know how Murphy's Law likes to manifest itself.
WARNING: In this video 1 minute seems like 1 hour.
Mines squeals and someone said, it's dry and to put a candle to it and make it moist
Hey what's your take on this me my buddy other people gone over 300k same transmission fluid. With sealed units maybe it's really best to leave alone before do harm
Love the video Peter!
I actually feel that the Gates belt should have been replaced with either original Toyota or Continental, didn’t seem to sit perfectly inside the pulley and look thin for some reason. Plus it seems that the car needs some TLC so I would have recommended new spark plugs since it is that time to change and you have the car in the shop anyway. Also I would do a drain and fill of the Transmission Fluid with WS since it is also around the time to change it. You rock Peter!
👍👍👍
Hi Peter I'm in S.A. I have a 2010 toyota yaris 1.3L Rpms is when it is hot between 500-600 .What could be the problem.Please help.
There is a very easy hack to make this belt stop doing this.....turn the starter key slowly instead of fast. Not kidding! The alternator computer cant process info fast enough so the alternator is locked up thinking full load, making the belt slip across it for a second. If u turn the key slowly, it gives it enough time to lighten up while starting.
Mines squeals loud when i starts it, for like 13 seconds-so embarrassing🤦♀️
I put a Gates belt on my 4Runner and it would chirp on startup when cold. I took it off and replaced it with Mitsuboshi belt from the dealer. Problem solved.
👍
Had the same problem on my son's 2012 Yaris except a 3 year old non-Toyota belt broke on the interstate. Needless to say car was towed home. Got a new TOYOTA belt and installed but was surprised at the tension method for the belt. Just like the old cars from the 60's and 70's. Get a pry bar and tighten top bolt while keeping tension on the belt! Not an adjusting screw on top like the 09 Corolla your working on. NOT TOYOTA LIKE! But so far so good. Oh and BTW I have the tool Toyota calls for to check tension. NOPE! Only way I see to use it is remove the engine! Stupid and also not Toyota like.
A dirty, banged-up Toyota Corolla. Notice the headlights are cloudy as well. Before replacing them, try cleaning them.
My 93 jeep 4 liter is chirping i tried everything
Yup, run them into the ground is the cheapest. buy it used for 10k, oil, brake, tire changes, max 1-2k a year in repairs, run her till she don't go any more get another one. Cars are a waste of money but many need them. I had a 2006 sienna 320k klicks on it and the xmsn quit, $4000cdn to repair/replace. Found a 2004 sienna with 200k klicks for $3500. The siennas xmsn is not as bad as the dodge but still not that great. Don't waste money on lipstick and mascara, just keep her running and throw it away. After purchase, I budget max 2k a year for repairs, oil, brakes and tires, after that the car is not worth keeping
Peter, stop making excuses for the poor replacement of the alternator. Any mechanic knows how to adjust the proper tension of the belt. Also the belt probably should be changed. You should have checked it for your customer. I believe that the customer and/or his or her relative or friend did that poor install. Just ask and they should tell you. They even took off the rubber protector from the positive terminal to the alternator.
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