First saw your video 8 months or so ago, since then i've been running a 1x with a SRAM 10-52 (520%) cassette on my gravel bike, works exceedingly well in all situations particularly in the mountains on gravel where I ride frequently - I just swap out chainrings as needed having several chains specific to the ring on hand. As a result of my total pleasure with the 1x on the gravel bike, I am in the process of refitting my Giant TCR SL road bike with an AXS Force 1x crank and derailleur using a combination of 42,44,46 rings with a 10-33 cassette. I've been running AXS on both my mountain bike and the gravel bike, and can't wait to simplify the road bike. Thanks again, you got me going down the 1x path for gravel and now road!!
Still waiting for a proper 1x road bike groupset with a 10-50, 12 speed, MTB cassette and a 50 single chainring, don't mind the bigger gap between gears, I love the simplicity of 1x transmissions.
I converted my Scott foil to a 1x. Having 42T chainring and 11-30. Loving it. Simpler system and don’t have to think much on which chainrings to use. My avg cadence is 100 so a small chainring suits me well
I read the comments and it makes 1x sound very difficult or frustrating with complaining about gaps between gears and not enough range which makes me feel special ;) as I’m able to ride hilly terrain with gradients above 10% and have no problem in group rides or crits either.. I bought my bike a little over a year ago it has a 1x with 42 front 11-42 cassette, at first the gaps were felt but, and it’s a big but.. The body is adapting and you pull each gear a little more, and correct me if I’m wrong but, as long as you are able to push and not in too low cadence I don’t see the harm in it, neither in not working exactly at the same cadence, as I mentioned you are getting used to it and just plan ahead without thinking about it. I actually think that this variability between doing 90 cadence and then up the gear and drop the cadence to 80 is not a bad thing as people tend to think, as you have the chance to take a breath and use the legs just a little more, and those who think that these little lower cadence periods build fatigue I think are just wrong. So the body adapts but it takes times. Secondly, you need to more customizing the ratios to your cycling style and ability, I don’t feel like I need the 42 cog, and 36 is plenty for me, after this in mind you choose the right ratios and that is not bad. Thirdly it is possible to once in a while change the chainring or cassette if you really need.
For my riding 1x is perfect. I use to have 50 on the front and 32 on the back. Now i’m switched to 44 with 3t bailout cassette and this setup is perfect. Steps betwen gears are good,range is also pretty similar to double setup and what is most important for me,its very reliable and maintanance free. For mountains 12-15% ofcurse you have to use bigger cassette.
Thanks for the shout out Cam, and your points are all spot on. Would like to share my experience, and a few things to consider when moving to a 1X setup. Most of us are coming from riding 2X, and for that matter if you think back and observe the history of the gears you ride, and the type of riding you do (ie, your usual routes and terrain ), then you can assess the gears you use the most (used 75% of the time). Given 11-32 is the common-easy-cheap-to-get cassette , and working backwards, you then choose the 1X chain size. One factor that you need to consider in my opinion in choosing that 1x size so as to make sure you have your chain-line as straight as possible on most of your riding as this gives the most efficient power transfer (Yes, this is starting to sound like you only have 6-8 gears) . Once you start using the 32T ring at the back, even with 1X, you are getting an extreme angle....so your 32T really is the bail out gear. I live in Vancouver, and the local climbs like Seymour is an average of 8% that is about 12 km long climb...so my 1X /w 48T just does not cut it (I am building another 1x for climbing) Its good for short climbs and rollers. As for rear clutch, for roadies I don't think you need it, just get a chain guide like praxiscycles.com/product/chainguide-braze-roadcx/ , and it works with Oval Chain ring (AbsoluteBlack). Finally, the 1X set up has made me a stronger rider and you get used to the simplicity and limited variations of gears. I can't go back to 2X
@@stavrios I am using the standard Shimano ultegra setup with a 11-32 Cassette at the rear. If you are on the latest Ultegra 8000 series, then you can get away with No roadlink. However if you are using 6800, you will need a road link as the derailleur hanger won't clear the 32 tooth on the cassette. Make sure you adjust the B Screw to get max clearance. Shifters are standard. If you are doing mainly doing road riding then you can get away without the chain guide. Make sure you have adjusted your chain length to suit too. Good luck. Rav
I use 10-42T on the year and a 38T front on a drop bar mountain bike - a Salsa cutthroat. for road, gravel, and trails in the mountains. It works fine. End of story.
Great video. There is just one thing I see all the time when people talk about the benefits of a 1x system that I believe is a bit of a misnomer and that is weight. Lets assume a typical compact 50/34 2x system setup with an 11-26 cassette at the rear. This would give you a total gear range of 122 gear inches at the top end and 35 gear inches at the low end. To attain a similar ratio spread with a 1x system lets assume a front ring with 46t. If we pair that with an 11-36 cassette this will give us a ratio spread of 112 to 34 gear inches. We lose a little at the top but not a huge amount and keep the same ratio for climbing. Lets use Sram Force components as an example. When we ditch the front derailleur we lose 75g. The small chainring is roughly 60g. Lets assume another 50g roughly for the front shift cable. This gives a total of 185g saved. However a 11-26 pg-1170 cassette weighs 245g. A 11-36 version weights in at 368g. As a net you only save roughly 60g. The worst bit though is you are shifting weight away from the center of the bike and onto the rear which already has a weight bias. Lol sorry if that was long winded!
Great video! Well thought out and Informative. I have been thinking of going 1x on a new build. I find front derailleurs a bit antiquated, particularly with mechanical cross-chain loss of gears, or rattled performance, chain dropping. For myself the larger jumps between gears on a 1x cassette has some benefits. There is always something to be said for the less is more mindset, though I won’t be climbing the Alps on a Fixe in this lifetime. Excellent work per usual Cam.
Great video and a proud supporter of 1x. I swapped over to a 1x 18 months ago for my daily commute (approx 18kms each way from Brisbane south-side to the city). PROS: Less maintenance and no more dropped chains; Just as fast as a 2x. CONS: The rear cassette wears faster due to cross-chaining (got about 15k kms out of the original rear cassette).
Ian Pfeffer good to know.. I’m in the market for a new bike and was considering the focus paralane apex 1 or 105 and commute roughly the same kms through all seasons and was wondering this exact thing re: wear on the cassette. Either way there’s money to be spent on services and maintenance, but how much more kms would you estimate you would get out of a cassette if you were running 2x?
Great video I'm mostly from MTB, and have here been riding a 1x for the last 6 years - and I will never have af front-mech again. A few years back I converted my racebike wit an old 10sp. XTR clutch mech (and a wolftooth tanpan - not optimal, but it works - but I will be changing it to a force 1x at some time) I ride with a 52 chainring and 11-36 - and that works for me - now I mostly used it indoor this season and don a lot on zwift - climbing - and had no issue what so ever - bu I know it different i real life and would go for a smaler chainring if I took the bike to real mountains - but I wil NEVER again own a front mech on any bike - 1x is a dream come true PS you forgon one pros for 1x - it is so much simpler, you only shift up or down - on one shifter - easy all the way.
I think the perceived snappy shifting and noise reduction is a benefit of the clutch rather than the single chain ring set up. I'm riding a clutched ultegra mech now for that reason, and it's delivered those over the normal rear mech. Another downside of 1x is the chain line is more out of whack when going into the outer rings of the cassette. Noticably more drag when riding the dinner plate on my Apex1 gravel bike set up.
Thanks for sharing your experiences Pascal. I definitely feel that no chain guide, and a chain system that is not designed to derail, has an influence on the snappy shifting. I have ridden clutched SRAM systems before on 2x and while it's definitely solid, then 1x for me is next level. Cam
For bikes with longer chainstays, the chain angle isn’t affected that much. And there isn’t much difference at all between big - small and 1x - small. Its only half the distance between the two rings. I think that’s a total of 2.5mm? Not a significant difference.
great vid! i have no experience on a 1x setup, but i've been looking into it for a while now. it makes so much sense for all the reasons you mentioned, and the versatility seems to be massively underrated if you don't mind the larger gaps. i doubt it'll bug me. i think i'm going to mess around with 1x on my aluminum trek, which has been designated the "project bike" moving forward. once i move back to the mountains and my daily rides are peppered with 10-20% climbs, the project bike will most likely start collecting dust 😏
Thank you Eriq. And a project bike!? How awesome. Deifntely a good way to dip your toe in the waters. Even if you move back to the mountains, surely there are some flatter courses you can take? Once you've gone 1x you'll be keen to at least give it a weekly crack. Cam
I agree. I still remember when I went from a 3x to 2x. I thought hills were going to be impossible. Man....was I wrong. I'll have to borrow a 1x from a friend to try it out.
1x seems to be a really nice thing if your not living in the mountains. But for me 2x will be the only option as long as i live in a street with a 20% incline. Also i love climbing steep hills and hate to run out of gears on the downhill.
While I don’t necessarily agree with most of your positives the problem that makes 1x for road problematic is that chain drops are inevitable and far more likely. You are dealing with a much longer chain than MTB and this with the much higher chain speeds which inevitably leads to much higher levels of vibration in the chain. This means that any slack in the chain, especially when in the smaller cogs at the back, will lead to higher chances of the chain popping off the front ring. Now when you add a clutch rear derailleur which pulls the chain back against the frame which when you couple this with the specific way that the chain fits the teeth the only way you will get it back on is by stopping and lifting it back on.
James Jordan thanks for sharing James. I know a lot of people won’t agree but all I’m doing is sharing my personal experiences which have been very positive. Cam
@@CamNicholls 1x does have a place, especially in the commuting markets but I think the push towards the racing community is more gimmick than substance.
@@CamNicholls just a thought for you to try on your next decent down New Belair Road. When you have the bike in the smallest cog at the back just ever so slightly back pedal which will loosen the chain. I will bet that the first couple of bumps will send the chain off the front ring and pull it into the frame.
I have an 11-32 on my road bike, but I also have a 39-53 in the front.. Let's see you hit that with your one choice of chainring in the front.. I can hit high speeds on down hills, and I can make it a lot easier than you can on climbs for when I'm hitting a wall. I also have less friction and better chainline. I remember as a child having a 1x bike. haha Getting more rings in the front made a huge difference in efficiency and advantages.
I’m running a 44 and 11/42 on a cannondale slate . Actually works quite well ratio wise on the road for general training . Mind you the apex1 shifting is shite at times . Not the first cannondale with apex1 poor shifting that I’ve had either
They say 1X is lighter but I don’t see reference to added weight for a wide ratio cassette. A wide range 11 speed cassette is 350-600 grams; a close ratio cassette is half that.
I have Shimano Di2 52/36 with a 11-30 cassette and I would love to have the same gear spread in a 1x system but it's just impossible. For my kind of riding, I need a cassette that allows me to smoothly jump from an 11t to a 19t sprocket while having a bailout ratio for bigger climbs. That's just not possible unless I'd have a 13 speed cassette, and I don't like the Rotor 13 speed cassette.
Thanks for sharing this Anthony,I'm always keen to hear the real world experiences of people out there with different riding needs. Appreciate the comment. Cam
Anthony HT I feel like a 11-36 cassette offers a good range, I think that compared to a 11-30 cassette, maybe you will be missing one cog from the range you mentioned. Wondering also if possible to change some cogs..
I’ve been riding 1x now for around 5 years. People moaning about really steep hills is not valid and never really has been the range is there. Its that you can’t have both closely spaced gears and range. at least not currently. But it’s getting close. And I think you will see it with the next iteration or 2. Though having said that I run a 46 with a 10-33 and I’m getting over everything. Tbh it makes the small ring completely redundant in my part of the world. In all honesty there’s not many that will climb 3000 meters in one ride. You have to ask your self is worth carrying around that extra ring just in case? Especially if you don’t travel with the bike. Or ever climb anything larger than 10% for more than a few feet. 1x makes sense just most people having tried it. Edit forgot to mention in that time absolutely no dropped chains. That alone will make me stick with 1x
I must admit that i also love the 1x setup. I’m riding a Sram Red AXS 46 chainring with a 10-28 or 10-33 depending the terrain. I never felt that I needed a 2x system again. I live in Flanders (Belgium) so it’s just some short steep hills but nothing i could not do with a 46/33. Also I don’t understand the negative comments about the range. In the past (first generation 11 speed campagnolo) my smallest gear was a 39/25 which is a bigger gear than 46/33. I can understand when you are racing or a pro that a bigger chainring makes sense but if your not a pro or not racing 46-10 can make you fast enough. The combination 46-10 with 90rpm = 52km/h. Also it’s more quiet, better rear shifting, lighter and not to be afraid off chaindrops. My only complaint is that Sram needs to make normal 48/50 chainrings and no aero direct mount versions. It cost more and to replace it, with power meter, it also cost a lot more.
I recently went 1x for trail and even more recently picked up a gravel bike (SRAM XX1 for trail and Apex for gravel) ... For road I'm riding a TCR with 2x DuraAce .. it's Di2 so the shifting is crisp and I really need to drop flubber before I worry about grams or aero (though I can't help myself when it comes to being a weight weenie with my bikes). If I was to invest in an aero bike I do think I'd consider 1x ... but being the lazy bloke I am I'd want to be able to head out without needing to decide on chainring and cassette setup the night before (maybe at worst have two rear wheels ready to go with different cassettes). Cam .. you're on the Sunshine Coast so you'd know roads like Louis Bazzo with the 12% climb where cars rocket up behind you - you'd want bigger options on the back doing a Tewantin, Pomona, Cooroy loop compared to a ride in the same area like an out and back between Noosa and Boreen Point. How would you setup you 1x for those rides? My 1x gravel is a 40 to 10-42 setup and 40:10 is plenty for top end when you're running 40mm rubber .. but the steps between won't let you stick to your "happy cadence" :)
Hey Kevin, thanks for sharing your experiences here. I've been around all those areas you discuss on the 1x. The only climb I've really prayed for a small ring was a 350m climb at 14% average grad. I have a 52 front and an 11-32 rear. I am 80kgs and relatively fit so it would depend on the level of fitness. I reckon the most I would go on the rear is a 11-36. Beyond that for road the variation is too much. So to answer your question, for me, I am very happy with my current set up for riding around here. But if I wanted to be safer maybe an 11-36 on the rear and a 50 or 48 front. Cam
@@CamNicholls LOL .. I think I'll need to focus on a bit of deflubbering before I make the leap then .. though if I can get home comfortable on my TCR (with 52/36:11-28) and not use 36:28, maths says I'd be ok on a 48:11-36. I really think something like 44:10-34 in 1x12 would be the perfect all rounder. FWIW, I got the gravel bike because I was fed up with having to grab the car every time I wanted to go for a solo ride - I have half a kilometre of ~20% gradient gravel from the house to the letterbox and a kilometre of gravel road before I hit bitumen.
@@CamNicholls Just noticed there is a SRAM 10-33 option in XG-1290 ... that puts some really interesting opportunities on the table with a 44 or 46 tooth chainring (though the steps are taller).
Fantastic video. Im torn between a 1x and 2x drive train on my next gravel bike. I love the idea of the 1x and agree with everything you said. The 2x is more flexible tho, but they dont look anywhere near as good.
@@CDOES Thank you for information, I am also torn between 1x and 2x right now, I want to switch from my old mtb with 3x9 since i ride almost only in town and on the relatively flat roads I use almost only 3x6-3x8, with 2x5 being used at some very rare uphills and I wanted to buy "gravel" type bike, if i can find some sale. I think I will love less maintenance more than I will hate lack of 2 gears in front but those comments made me worried
i was sold until i broke a chain on my 2x and lost 4¨ links due to damage. while i lost some the large chainring functionality i never lost any low gears.
I'm 44t x 11-46t (apex 1 and a sunrace cassette). I really like it. The 1:1 ratio granny gear is enough up to about 12% gradient climbs for me. My heart is too weak to climb anything harder. Average shift is about 14% so maybe 1.5x the average 105 shift. Only change I would make is to a 10-48 cassette but those don't exist and would involve moving to xd hubs. Also my cassette looks absolutely massive 🤣
yes I've got road apex 1 and the sram website says 42 is maximum, however 46 seems to be fine. I only needed to adjust the b screws. I was on 11-42 not 10-42, not sure if one cog makes any difference.
Ask John Degenkolb from Trek team, his views on 1x , where the chain came off at a crucial juncture, potentially costing him a chance to compete in the final sprint. They too experimented with this lab rat. Pro racing as of now it is a failure inspite of the new 12 speed 1x.
Thanks for sharing. I personally find this very interesting because with my own experiences riding the 1 x versus the 2x, I can understand a chain coming off on a 2x but not a 1x. Cam
I have had more chain issues with 2x than 1x, though it mostly comes down to how the bike is set up. If your derailleur(s) are set up properly, you have a chain catcher and proper chain length, it's pretty hard to throw a chain regardless of having a derailleur or not. The narrow-wide chainrings you use on 1x hold the chain better than a front derailleur in my experience.
Doesn't it also come down to your ability and what you're use to... ie. someone really fit could get by with a 1x big ring vs someone less fit would need the smaller ring (or both).
Yes, agreed. My final statements suggest spending time on getting the gear ratios right for the type of riding you'll be doing. So you're spot on Dan. Cam
Probably is like you said you can't just get on your bike go do a flat fast spin and straight up a long climb, the range just isn't there and that's why it didn't work at pro level or any race level really.
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. I think it would depend on the course. I reckon it would work very well for some of the classics. I ride here on lumpy terrain and it works super well. However, if you were on a long climbs with an average grad of over 7-8%, then I would want a 2x! Cam
Great video, thanks for the on-road review. Just ordered a Tarmac SL7 with 1x SRAM. A bit nervous but looking forward to the experience. Also, what's the song in the video?
@@deanf7360 Straight to the point - I’m satisfied - no ride or mechanical issues so far. I love the 1x aesthetic and inclusion of the power meter, and prefer the feel of SRAM shifting over di2. I had the same concerns about gearing, and I compared the SRAM 1x and Shimano 2x ratios before purchase. You can check bikecalc.com for the gearing ratios and speed at cadence. It is possible to convert the 1x into a 2x setup by adding a front derailleur and chainrings but it’s not a trivial cost. However to be objective here, I think you need to think about your riding style, terrain, and fitness. To give you some context - I ride mostly solo, flat, rolling terrain (avg ride speed 26-40kph / avg ride distance 20-40km), my steepest grades are 10% average but fairly short, 160-200m average ride ascent. I have not felt limited by gearing on climbs. Downhill I could easily spin out but I don’t like to descend that fast these days so it’s not a concern. I’m a daily rider, but I’d classify myself as recreational. I do not race. My weight is around 70kg. The jumps in gearing are more noticeable on 1x - especially on the lower end. For my solo riding, this is not a problem, but if you’re in a group this could potentially be an issue if you need to match group pace while keeping your cadence within a tight zone (I’m speculating here, this hasn’t been my experience). A 2x setup also has a bit more “safety” on the lower end for long climbs, and a bit more top end if you like to go fast on downhills or sprints. (The stock di2 has a ratio of 1.2 to 4.73, while the Sram has a ratio of 1.28 to 4.6). It's very close, but I think there's more flexibility with the 2x setup since you can change either of those front rings or the rear cassette. It is not possible to accommodate both of these extremes with the 1x setup. You can obviously upsize/downsize the front chain ring but you’d be choosing a sacrifice to do it. Overall I’d say that this setup works great for solo riders, moderate performance, general terrain, crits (with bigger chainring). If you compete, ride in groups, hilly terrain, I’d strongly consider the di2 version. They’re both great bikes. I'd make the same decision again. Hope this helps.
I use a 52t chainring, how can I shift into 11th gear? Do I need a special chain? I am also running 13t pulley wheels, should I switch back to 11t to get into the tallest gear?
I am not familiar with those wheels and set up. All I can tell you is that I have a 52t front and I can get into the 11 very easily on my 1x set up. All the best with it, Cam
I am not familiar with those wheels and set up. All I can tell you is that I have a 52t front and I can get into the 11 very easily on my 1x set up. All the best with it, Cam
I am not familiar with those wheels and set up. All I can tell you is that I have a 52t front and I can get into the 11 very easily on my 1x set up. All the best with it, Cam
I’m a bit of a novice And strongly Considering a one by because I thought it would climb better? I cannot find a Derailer that wheels go bigger than a 36 tooth on the back. But I have no problem finding a Rear derailer that will do 42 teeth on the back. 42 teas is a better climbing gear than a 36 is it not?
The main disadvantage of a 1x system, that comes to my mind, is the chainline being more off the ideal straight line when using the largest or smallest cogs. That should mean more loss of power compared to a 2x drive. What do you think about chainline efficiency of 1x systems?
@@Martin23673 he doesn’t address it but it’s a really significant loss of watts. Only a straight chain line is excellent efficiency. Dylan Thomas goes over it in one of his gravel race setup videos.
If you use a "narrow/wide" front chainring there doesn't seem to be as much cross chaining friction. My 1X drivetrain remains quiet despite cross chaining, while the 2X always gets a little louder. I originally converted to 1X due to a left hand injury that made shifting to the big ring painful (mechanical Sram), but doubt I'll ever go back to 2X now.
2x have better top speed right? the 1X bikes top out at 47 to 48KPH in their highest gear, while a 2X or 3X bike will offer 15-20% more speed, topping out at 56 to 57KPH.
If you have the right cassette, you will spend most of your time in the middle where it's quietest and most efficient. If you have 1x and are constantly shifting to either extreme of the cassette, the result isn't as extreme as the big-big/little-little combo that is possible on 2x, but that might mean you either need a bigger cassette or 2x would be better.
Cam, thanks for the insight on the 1x vs 2x drivetrain. Something that I wondered about is cross-chaining with 11-speed cassettes. Would this be a problem leading to more wear on the drivetrain?
I don't get cross chaining Ron. I was speaking with SRAM AUS post this review and we agreed this was the one thing I left out that was a pro, of the 1x! Cam
In the U.S. "cross-chaining" is when the chain is, for example, on the large chainring in the front and the large gear in the rear cassette thus putting the chain on an extreme angle leading to causing the chain to flex and the gear to wear. Votchewtink, eh? ;-)
RonOnYourLeft Retired same in Aus. I really don’t experience this. Nor does Rob Eva from Sram who also has 1x on his road bike. We were discussing this topic over the phone. The system is designed not to derail so there’s less chain links, a narrow tooth / wide tooth chain rings so the chain sits more snug. The only time I ever notice perhaps a slight amount of cross chaining is when I’m in the 32. But it’s nothing compared to 2x
I was contemplating a 1x for a future fat bike purchase, but looking at some videos wonder about that 1x derailleur clutch and reliability. From high to low, that's a lot of chain slop variation for a derailleur to deal with, especially if rough riding. I noticed this is much more of a worry in off-road bikes - mtb and fat. Any comments/thoughts? And great video, thanks for posting.
well said.. and thank you.. I am considering a Kona "Jake the snake" with a 1x40t 11/32t for commuting and camping. I live between Boulder and Denver to give a terrain reference. Would this setup work well? Thank you
@@CamNicholls update. I rode more bikes. the 40t with 11-32 was no good for me. there was no spinning at all. I think i will be getting the GIANT TCX ADVANCED with 40t and 11-42 cassette. This still allowed me plenty of spinning if needed. Thanks for the help and suggestions!
Hey mate Are you still riding the 1x ?? Is it possible to do this with shimano’s ? I currently ride a specialized disk pro SL6 with shimano Di2. I would like to change to a 1 x chain ring
1x systems kinda make no sense , especially with sram , sram uses the yaw system for most of their main road groups , allowing you to use any 2x system as a one 1x , in their words without the negative effects of a full cross chain , so to me the only way to run a 1x with full benefits is to know the exact gears you will need for the ride , so if you have a few chain rings you can just run what ever chain ring you need , but again 1x kinda makes no point , you could look at it as a weight weenie issue , but unless you can move the chain ring out and in the match the position on the cassette you will always be loosing efficiency running 1x no matter what the range is , or gear ratios , you will have to switch gears to match your terrain , and sometimes its not going to be in the strait position , i think the better way to go is for sram to invent a pivot system that move the chain ring out and in to make sure the chain ring is strait at all positions on the cassette , then you would have a really good case to only need one chain ring , rather than investing in silly 12 speeds 13 speeds ect . your 53 ring would be able to carry way more uses for TTs road hills and such , so to me a 1x system shouldn't even need more than 5 gears on the cassette , it seems the 1x effectiveness is reduced because you are trying to use it with a very wide cassette forcing it to loose its efficiency , so they sell it as a larger range , but the range doesn't matter as much if your loosing watts especially in a race , so if they would actually develop a 1x system to be fully 1x add a clutch mech to the rear , it would work , it wouldn't be traditional but a 1x5 or a chain ring that can move should work alot better than a 1x12 or 13 i think anyway :)
@@CamNicholls You can give me your thoughts then. I'm eyeballing a new bike to do it all. Winter, summer, commuting and weekend adventures! Comes with a 46T front chain ring and a 11-42T cassette?
If you ride in a mostly flat area, then manybe 1x. But saying 1x is optimized for gravel is just ridiculous. If Colin Strickland, the gravel world champion, rides a 2x Dura-ace, then there is every reason to believe 2x is better than 1x. Also never had a chain drop using Di2 over the years.
Thanks for sharing Arthur. I think flat or lumpy terrain is fine. I live in the Sunshine Coast now where it is very lumpy. The 1X works very well here. There was one pinch climb at an average of 15% gradient for 350m. That has been the only time I have prayed for a small chainring! Cam
Stories like this telegraph that I probably made a strategic error with my choice of a 1x gravel drivetrain .. and 1x for road makes sense when you're going aero and your climbs aren't steep :(
1x and 2x can have the same gear range. the trade of is the gear spacing. personally I'm happy to never change front, but I'm super lazy and only ride for fun (no contests)
Let's take a 48t front chainring and 42t sprocket (supported by long cage by x Sram road / gravel derailleurs). Are you saying it's less facilitative of an easy climb than a 38t front and 16t rear? Of course it isn't! The only real disadvantage of 1x systems is that greater steps between the gears, not the overal range. Another likely disadvantage may (for may not) be a greater chain wear. But those are about all the disadvantages of a 1x system. I wouldn't hesitate to choose a 1x if Sram had a Force eTap AXS with the largest cassette sprocket exceeding 38t. Unfortunately, the crooks at Sram had rather that you buy an Eagle AXS derailleur (ca. €800-900), a ca. 50t max cassette (another €200-400) and an Eagle AXS chain on top of shelling €2.000 or more on eTap AXS in order to run a 1x system on drop bar frames. Speaking of 2x - My Sram Force eTap AXS keeps dropping chains on upshifts (and occasionally, even on downshifts) like mad - some 4 times out of 10 upshifts. Outrageous! I've never experienced anything like it prior to My eTap 2x acquisition. No groupset - from the bottom-end one to the finest top-tier groupsets - should EVER drop a chain on shifts! It's particularly outrageous that the second best of Sram should do, never mind as often as it does! Also, the front shifts - when they work - are damn slow often. Preposterous. Criminal.
@@kevinpunter7960 Force 1. A 10-42 cassette, a long cage derailleur. Unless the chainring up front is over 53T, I don't see how a 42t cassette sprocket is less suitable for climbing than, say, a standard 28t one, combined with a 32 (or thereabouts small chainring). Use a gear ratio or gear speed calculator. You want easier climbs than a, say, 46 front and 42 rear - go 3x with a particularly small granny gear and about as large rear sprocket as a 3x can take.
Can you say something about wear&tear on the chain and cassette? I've heard a lot of people say that the chain and the cassette need replacing much more frequently with a 1x drivetrain due to the chain crossing more. That is probably the one thing that has been keeping me from switching, but I'm not even sure how much truth there is to this claim.
If you'll benefit from a 1x then its probably worth the extra cost every year. This is really splitting hairs, if you can afford to convert to a decent 1x set up you can afford a new chain every season.
Thoroughly fed up with constant misshifts, slow shifts, etc., I was determined to move to a 1x system. Other riders kept discouraging Me from doing that, especially for loaded tours. A week ago I received My new gravel bike (a Salsa WarBird 2019), 2 x (50-34, with an 11-34 cassette). There are quite a few steep climbs in the vicinity of where I live. I climbed one of those: no way I'd make it to the top with a 1x, unless it has a 34 teeth or less front and 34 teeth or more in the largest cassette sprocket. Which would effectively mean a max. speed of ca. 25km/h or less on the flats. No, thank you very much. Electric groupset, thankfully, eliminate most of 2x / 3x issues without compromising range. Let's see how the Force eTap AXS 48-35 fares compared to mechanical groupsets…
@@CamNicholls No good for the ACT either due to our climbs either being long, with steep pinches, or short sharp monsters. Depending on your set up you would be stuck with either having to grind up the pinches or be dropped off on the descents.
1x is the single dumbest invention for cycling in history. Especially for road bikes. You give up low range. You give up high range. Most importantly, you give up manageable steps between gears. Absolutely stupid.
On a typical 2x 11 setup, about one third of your gear combinations are either duplicates or are inaccessible due to cross chaining. This means with a 22 speed bike, you only have about 14ish unique gear ratios at your disposal. This begs the question: "why deal with all the cons of 2x mentioned in the video if it only gives you 2 or 3 more gears?". If you live in a flat area, and only race flat crits for example, you can do away with the little ring and get a smoother drivetrain, easier use, easier maintenance, and improved aerodynamics. Sure, you lose some gear options, but it's actually more like 3 fewer gears, not 11 or 12. If you live in a flat area, chances are you probably don't use your lowest three gears, so you don't really miss out on anything. If you live in a mountainous area and need low gears for going up and high gears for going down, then 2x might be right.
@@joshtipton7417 if the Chain is not Strait there will be great lost of energie transmited só if using x1 you only have 4 speeds where you Will not be losing energie.
@@ruiteixeira1594 With 1x, the chainring is in the center of the chainline, compared to 2x where it is offside a bit on each side. If you are in the wrong chainring with 2x the chain will be a lot less straight then it ever could with 1x. For example, having the chain in the far left chainring and far right cassette is a much greater problem than the slight angle you get in 1x.
Trying too much to sell it!!! Go tell that to the pros of the pro tour and cyclocross!!! Really bad video, just trying to sell it for Sram... No ratio comparison, no cassette vs chainring options, just a bad video for young and ignorant cyclist! Really had more expectations...
I think I’d been doing RUclips for about 8-9 months at this time, I was learning. Gotta start somewhere. But thanks deeply criticising a five year old video. 😂
Interesting, thanks. Do you know that God loves ya. His only begotten Son, the Lord Jesus, died for our sins on the cross and rose from the dead on the third day. If we REPENT and believe + trust in Lord Jesus, we can be saved. ❤️ From hell and lake of fire, to everlasting LIFE.
I have a tarmac SL7 pro with SRAM force etap 1x . Chainring 46 and Cassette 10-36t. If I want to upgrade to 2x system, should I upgrade to chainring 46/33t or 48/35t?
With every sprocket they add to the rear cassette the 1x makes more sense. And it looks so sweet as well.
Sure, just make road bikes with boost spacing. God that would look stupid.
@@SurpriseMeJT dont need boost spacing for a bigger cassette
First saw your video 8 months or so ago, since then i've been running a 1x with a SRAM 10-52 (520%) cassette on my gravel bike, works exceedingly well in all situations particularly in the mountains on gravel where I ride frequently - I just swap out chainrings as needed having several chains specific to the ring on hand. As a result of my total pleasure with the 1x on the gravel bike, I am in the process of refitting my Giant TCR SL road bike with an AXS Force 1x crank and derailleur using a combination of 42,44,46 rings with a 10-33 cassette. I've been running AXS on both my mountain bike and the gravel bike, and can't wait to simplify the road bike. Thanks again, you got me going down the 1x path for gravel and now road!!
Awesome stuff Bil, appreciate you sharing on the thread. Cam
Still waiting for a proper 1x road bike groupset with a 10-50, 12 speed, MTB cassette and a 50 single chainring, don't mind the bigger gap between gears, I love the simplicity of 1x transmissions.
I converted my Scott foil to a 1x. Having 42T chainring and 11-30. Loving it. Simpler system and don’t have to think much on which chainrings to use. My avg cadence is 100 so a small chainring suits me well
Awesome to hear, thanks for sharing on the thread here. Cam
I a 2x. My big ring is 48 with an 11 cog on my cassette and I think anything slower would be stupid.
In countries with flat terrain such as the Netherlands, one only ever uses one front chain ring so a 1x system makes a lot more sense.
You can go fixie there lol
@@asdasd01 but for the wind
@@asdasd01 I see 1X like it is a Fixie with gears.....hehe
I read the comments and it makes 1x sound very difficult or frustrating with complaining about gaps between gears and not enough range which makes me feel special ;) as I’m able to ride hilly terrain with gradients above 10% and have no problem in group rides or crits either.. I bought my bike a little over a year ago it has a 1x with 42 front 11-42 cassette, at first the gaps were felt but, and it’s a big but.. The body is adapting and you pull each gear a little more, and correct me if I’m wrong but, as long as you are able to push and not in too low cadence I don’t see the harm in it, neither in not working exactly at the same cadence, as I mentioned you are getting used to it and just plan ahead without thinking about it. I actually think that this variability between doing 90 cadence and then up the gear and drop the cadence to 80 is not a bad thing as people tend to think, as you have the chance to take a breath and use the legs just a little more, and those who think that these little lower cadence periods build fatigue I think are just wrong.
So the body adapts but it takes times.
Secondly, you need to more customizing the ratios to your cycling style and ability, I don’t feel like I need the 42 cog, and 36 is plenty for me, after this in mind you choose the right ratios and that is not bad.
Thirdly it is possible to once in a while change the chainring or cassette if you really need.
42 just sounds to slow to me.
For my riding 1x is perfect.
I use to have 50 on the front and 32 on the back.
Now i’m switched to 44 with 3t bailout cassette and this setup is perfect.
Steps betwen gears are good,range is also pretty similar to double setup and what is most important for me,its very reliable and maintanance free.
For mountains 12-15% ofcurse you have to use bigger cassette.
Good insights, thanks for sharing Jura. Cam
Can you go as fast as a regular setup? I would like to have a build 1×13. Which components are you using?
Thanks for the shout out Cam, and your points are all spot on. Would like to share my experience, and a few things to consider when moving to a 1X setup. Most of us are coming from riding 2X, and for that matter if you think back and observe the history of the gears you ride, and the type of riding you do (ie, your usual routes and terrain ), then you can assess the gears you use the most (used 75% of the time). Given 11-32 is the common-easy-cheap-to-get cassette , and working backwards, you then choose the 1X chain size. One factor that you need to consider in my opinion in choosing that 1x size so as to make sure you have your chain-line as straight as possible on most of your riding as this gives the most efficient power transfer (Yes, this is starting to sound like you only have 6-8 gears) . Once you start using the 32T ring at the back, even with 1X, you are getting an extreme angle....so your 32T really is the bail out gear. I live in Vancouver, and the local climbs like Seymour is an average of 8% that is about 12 km long climb...so my 1X /w 48T just does not cut it (I am building another 1x for climbing) Its good for short climbs and rollers. As for rear clutch, for roadies I don't think you need it, just get a chain guide like praxiscycles.com/product/chainguide-braze-roadcx/ , and it works with Oval Chain ring (AbsoluteBlack). Finally, the 1X set up has made me a stronger rider and you get used to the simplicity and limited variations of gears. I can't go back to 2X
Hello there.I want to make an 1X bike.What rear derailleur do you use and what shifters ?The cassette in the picture is 11-36? Thanx.
@@stavrios I am using the standard Shimano ultegra setup with a 11-32 Cassette at the rear. If you are on the latest Ultegra 8000 series, then you can get away with No roadlink. However if you are using 6800, you will need a road link as the derailleur hanger won't clear the 32 tooth on the cassette. Make sure you adjust the B Screw to get max clearance. Shifters are standard. If you are doing mainly doing road riding then you can get away without the chain guide. Make sure you have adjusted your chain length to suit too. Good luck. Rav
@@chiefrocker12 im running ultegra 6800 and an 11-32 cassette and have been for months, no roadlink required, no chain guide required either
I use 10-42T on the year and a 38T front on a drop bar mountain bike - a Salsa cutthroat. for road, gravel, and trails in the mountains. It works fine. End of story.
Thanks for sharing your experiences on this thread. Cam
Great video. There is just one thing I see all the time when people talk about the benefits of a 1x system that I believe is a bit of a misnomer and that is weight. Lets assume a typical compact 50/34 2x system setup with an 11-26 cassette at the rear. This would give you a total gear range of 122 gear inches at the top end and 35 gear inches at the low end. To attain a similar ratio spread with a 1x system lets assume a front ring with 46t. If we pair that with an 11-36 cassette this will give us a ratio spread of 112 to 34 gear inches. We lose a little at the top but not a huge amount and keep the same ratio for climbing.
Lets use Sram Force components as an example. When we ditch the front derailleur we lose 75g. The small chainring is roughly 60g. Lets assume another 50g roughly for the front shift cable. This gives a total of 185g saved. However a 11-26 pg-1170 cassette weighs 245g. A 11-36 version weights in at 368g. As a net you only save roughly 60g. The worst bit though is you are shifting weight away from the center of the bike and onto the rear which already has a weight bias. Lol sorry if that was long winded!
Moreover you'll need a longer rear derailleur, so the benefit becomes even smaller.
All good, thanks for sharing on this thread Steven.
1X doesn't need a front derailleur gear lever mechanism either...and it has lower losses from chain not touching the front derailleur cage.
Great video! Well thought out and Informative. I have been thinking of going 1x on a new build. I find front derailleurs a bit antiquated, particularly with mechanical cross-chain loss of gears, or rattled performance, chain dropping. For myself the larger jumps between gears on a 1x cassette has some benefits. There is always something to be said for the less is more mindset, though I won’t be climbing the Alps on a Fixe in this lifetime. Excellent work per usual Cam.
Thank you mate. Cam
Great video and a proud supporter of 1x. I swapped over to a 1x 18 months ago for my daily commute (approx 18kms each way from Brisbane south-side to the city). PROS: Less maintenance and no more dropped chains; Just as fast as a 2x. CONS: The rear cassette wears faster due to cross-chaining (got about 15k kms out of the original rear cassette).
Cheers Ian. And thanks for sharing. Cam
Ian Pfeffer good to know.. I’m in the market for a new bike and was considering the focus paralane apex 1 or 105 and commute roughly the same kms through all seasons and was wondering this exact thing re: wear on the cassette.
Either way there’s money to be spent on services and maintenance, but how much more kms would you estimate you would get out of a cassette if you were running 2x?
Great video
I'm mostly from MTB, and have here been riding a 1x for the last 6 years - and I will never have af front-mech again. A few years back I converted my racebike wit an old 10sp. XTR clutch mech (and a wolftooth tanpan - not optimal, but it works - but I will be changing it to a force 1x at some time) I ride with a 52 chainring and 11-36 - and that works for me - now I mostly used it indoor this season and don a lot on zwift - climbing - and had no issue what so ever - bu I know it different i real life and would go for a smaler chainring if I took the bike to real mountains - but I wil NEVER again own a front mech on any bike - 1x is a dream come true
PS you forgon one pros for 1x - it is so much simpler, you only shift up or down - on one shifter - easy all the way.
I think the perceived snappy shifting and noise reduction is a benefit of the clutch rather than the single chain ring set up. I'm riding a clutched ultegra mech now for that reason, and it's delivered those over the normal rear mech. Another downside of 1x is the chain line is more out of whack when going into the outer rings of the cassette. Noticably more drag when riding the dinner plate on my Apex1 gravel bike set up.
Thanks for sharing your experiences Pascal. I definitely feel that no chain guide, and a chain system that is not designed to derail, has an influence on the snappy shifting. I have ridden clutched SRAM systems before on 2x and while it's definitely solid, then 1x for me is next level. Cam
For bikes with longer chainstays, the chain angle isn’t affected that much. And there isn’t much difference at all between big - small and 1x - small. Its only half the distance between the two rings. I think that’s a total of 2.5mm? Not a significant difference.
great vid! i have no experience on a 1x setup, but i've been looking into it for a while now. it makes so much sense for all the reasons you mentioned, and the versatility seems to be massively underrated if you don't mind the larger gaps. i doubt it'll bug me. i think i'm going to mess around with 1x on my aluminum trek, which has been designated the "project bike" moving forward. once i move back to the mountains and my daily rides are peppered with 10-20% climbs, the project bike will most likely start collecting dust 😏
Thank you Eriq. And a project bike!? How awesome. Deifntely a good way to dip your toe in the waters. Even if you move back to the mountains, surely there are some flatter courses you can take? Once you've gone 1x you'll be keen to at least give it a weekly crack. Cam
I agree. I still remember when I went from a 3x to 2x. I thought hills were going to be impossible. Man....was I wrong. I'll have to borrow a 1x from a friend to try it out.
1x seems to be a really nice thing if your not living in the mountains. But for me 2x will be the only option as long as i live in a street with a 20% incline. Also i love climbing steep hills and hate to run out of gears on the downhill.
Same I can't sacrifice top and bottom with the better cadence.
While I don’t necessarily agree with most of your positives the problem that makes 1x for road problematic is that chain drops are inevitable and far more likely.
You are dealing with a much longer chain than MTB and this with the much higher chain speeds which inevitably leads to much higher levels of vibration in the chain. This means that any slack in the chain, especially when in the smaller cogs at the back, will lead to higher chances of the chain popping off the front ring.
Now when you add a clutch rear derailleur which pulls the chain back against the frame which when you couple this with the specific way that the chain fits the teeth the only way you will get it back on is by stopping and lifting it back on.
James Jordan thanks for sharing James. I know a lot of people won’t agree but all I’m doing is sharing my personal experiences which have been very positive. Cam
@@CamNicholls 1x does have a place, especially in the commuting markets but I think the push towards the racing community is more gimmick than substance.
@@CamNicholls just a thought for you to try on your next decent down New Belair Road. When you have the bike in the smallest cog at the back just ever so slightly back pedal which will loosen the chain. I will bet that the first couple of bumps will send the chain off the front ring and pull it into the frame.
James Jordan ok, I’ll give it a go 👍.
Always great content!! Keep them coming! I look forward to watching!!
Cheers Ethan. Cam
its so funny when people talk about aero gains of 1x system :D
There are measurable aero gains with 1x. If a TT doesn’t require a small ring, it would be stupid not to go 1x for the TT.
Great job Cam. 1X is starting to look a lot more compelling.
Go a 1x set on my gravel bike, love it!
Thanks for sharing Max.
Love 1x never going back. New bike build will be using the 3T 9 - 32 cassette, giving me more range than traditional 53/39 cranks.
Awesome to hear Byron, thanks for sharing. Cam
Awesome to hear Byron, thanks for sharing. Cam
Awesome to hear Byron, thanks for sharing. Cam
What do you use up front I was thinking 44T
I have an 11-32 on my road bike, but I also have a 39-53 in the front.. Let's see you hit that with your one choice of chainring in the front.. I can hit high speeds on down hills, and I can make it a lot easier than you can on climbs for when I'm hitting a wall. I also have less friction and better chainline. I remember as a child having a 1x bike. haha Getting more rings in the front made a huge difference in efficiency and advantages.
I’m running a 44 and 11/42 on a cannondale slate .
Actually works quite well ratio wise on the road for general training . Mind you the apex1 shifting is shite at times . Not the first cannondale with apex1 poor shifting that I’ve had either
Thanks for sharing, appreciate it. Cam
They say 1X is lighter but I don’t see reference to added weight for a wide ratio cassette. A wide range 11 speed cassette is 350-600 grams; a close ratio cassette is half that.
I choose a 44t up front and 11-42 rear on my gravel setup...i ride mostly on flats and not so hilly routes... Feels good enough
If I swap a 46T for a 40T in a 1x system does that help fix the climbing issue? The ratio would then be 40:36.
Yes, would do Brenton
I have Shimano Di2 52/36 with a 11-30 cassette and I would love to have the same gear spread in a 1x system but it's just impossible. For my kind of riding, I need a cassette that allows me to smoothly jump from an 11t to a 19t sprocket while having a bailout ratio for bigger climbs. That's just not possible unless I'd have a 13 speed cassette, and I don't like the Rotor 13 speed cassette.
Thanks for sharing this Anthony,I'm always keen to hear the real world experiences of people out there with different riding needs. Appreciate the comment. Cam
Anthony HT I feel like a 11-36 cassette offers a good range, I think that compared to a 11-30 cassette, maybe you will be missing one cog from the range you mentioned. Wondering also if possible to change some cogs..
I’ve been riding 1x now for around 5 years. People moaning about really steep hills is not valid and never really has been the range is there. Its that you can’t have both closely spaced gears and range. at least not currently. But it’s getting close. And I think you will see it with the next iteration or 2. Though having said that I run a 46 with a 10-33 and I’m getting over everything. Tbh it makes the small ring completely redundant in my part of the world. In all honesty there’s not many that will climb 3000 meters in one ride. You have to ask your self is worth carrying around that extra ring just in case? Especially if you don’t travel with the bike. Or ever climb anything larger than 10% for more than a few feet. 1x makes sense just most people having tried it.
Edit forgot to mention in that time absolutely no dropped chains. That alone will make me stick with 1x
I must admit that i also love the 1x setup.
I’m riding a Sram Red AXS 46 chainring with a 10-28 or 10-33 depending the terrain.
I never felt that I needed a 2x system again.
I live in Flanders (Belgium) so it’s just some short steep hills but nothing i could not do with a 46/33.
Also I don’t understand the negative comments about the range. In the past (first generation 11 speed campagnolo) my smallest gear was a 39/25 which is a bigger gear than 46/33.
I can understand when you are racing or a pro that a bigger chainring makes sense but if your not a pro or not racing 46-10 can make you fast enough. The combination 46-10 with 90rpm = 52km/h.
Also it’s more quiet, better rear shifting, lighter and not to be afraid off chaindrops.
My only complaint is that Sram needs to make normal 48/50 chainrings and no aero direct mount versions. It cost more and to replace it, with power meter, it also cost a lot more.
I recently went 1x for trail and even more recently picked up a gravel bike (SRAM XX1 for trail and Apex for gravel) ... For road I'm riding a TCR with 2x DuraAce .. it's Di2 so the shifting is crisp and I really need to drop flubber before I worry about grams or aero (though I can't help myself when it comes to being a weight weenie with my bikes). If I was to invest in an aero bike I do think I'd consider 1x ... but being the lazy bloke I am I'd want to be able to head out without needing to decide on chainring and cassette setup the night before (maybe at worst have two rear wheels ready to go with different cassettes). Cam .. you're on the Sunshine Coast so you'd know roads like Louis Bazzo with the 12% climb where cars rocket up behind you - you'd want bigger options on the back doing a Tewantin, Pomona, Cooroy loop compared to a ride in the same area like an out and back between Noosa and Boreen Point. How would you setup you 1x for those rides? My 1x gravel is a 40 to 10-42 setup and 40:10 is plenty for top end when you're running 40mm rubber .. but the steps between won't let you stick to your "happy cadence" :)
Hey Kevin, thanks for sharing your experiences here. I've been around all those areas you discuss on the 1x. The only climb I've really prayed for a small ring was a 350m climb at 14% average grad. I have a 52 front and an 11-32 rear. I am 80kgs and relatively fit so it would depend on the level of fitness. I reckon the most I would go on the rear is a 11-36. Beyond that for road the variation is too much. So to answer your question, for me, I am very happy with my current set up for riding around here. But if I wanted to be safer maybe an 11-36 on the rear and a 50 or 48 front. Cam
@@CamNicholls LOL .. I think I'll need to focus on a bit of deflubbering before I make the leap then .. though if I can get home comfortable on my TCR (with 52/36:11-28) and not use 36:28, maths says I'd be ok on a 48:11-36. I really think something like 44:10-34 in 1x12 would be the perfect all rounder. FWIW, I got the gravel bike because I was fed up with having to grab the car every time I wanted to go for a solo ride - I have half a kilometre of ~20% gradient gravel from the house to the letterbox and a kilometre of gravel road before I hit bitumen.
@@CamNicholls Just noticed there is a SRAM 10-33 option in XG-1290 ... that puts some really interesting opportunities on the table with a 44 or 46 tooth chainring (though the steps are taller).
wow, that's tough going before you even leave the house! Cam
wow, that's tough going before you even leave the house! Cam
Fantastic video. Im torn between a 1x and 2x drive train on my next gravel bike. I love the idea of the 1x and agree with everything you said. The 2x is more flexible tho, but they dont look anywhere near as good.
Go 1 X. I miss it so much. Smooth gears and no cross chaining. Perfect for gravel
@@CamNicholls thanks mate. I think that's what I'm going to go for. When bikes become available again. Lol
Did you get 1x?
@@cyjan3k823 ended up with a trek Crockett 7 with a Sram force 1x11. I run it with a 1170 11-36 and a 36 chainring. I absolutely love it.
@@CDOES Thank you for information, I am also torn between 1x and 2x right now,
I want to switch from my old mtb with 3x9 since i ride almost only in town and on the relatively flat roads I use almost only 3x6-3x8, with 2x5 being used at some very rare uphills and I wanted to buy "gravel" type bike, if i can find some sale.
I think I will love less maintenance more than I will hate lack of 2 gears in front but those comments made me worried
i was sold until i broke a chain on my 2x and lost 4¨ links due to damage. while i lost some the large chainring functionality i never lost any low gears.
I'm 44t x 11-46t (apex 1 and a sunrace cassette). I really like it. The 1:1 ratio granny gear is enough up to about 12% gradient climbs for me. My heart is too weak to climb anything harder. Average shift is about 14% so maybe 1.5x the average 105 shift. Only change I would make is to a 10-48 cassette but those don't exist and would involve moving to xd hubs. Also my cassette looks absolutely massive 🤣
Nice one, thanks for sharing on this thread. Cam
Hello is that on a road set Apex 1 I have a 42t chainring and 10 42 cassette but I want to move to a 10-46 cassette do you thing this will work ?
yes I've got road apex 1 and the sram website says 42 is maximum, however 46 seems to be fine. I only needed to adjust the b screws. I was on 11-42 not 10-42, not sure if one cog makes any difference.
Search RUclips for "Will a 11-46 Cassette fit on my 1x Cross Bike"
@@davidyang102 Thank you Will and I have subscribed to your channel etc
Ask John Degenkolb from Trek team, his views on 1x , where the chain came off at a crucial juncture, potentially costing him a chance to compete in the final sprint. They too experimented with this lab rat. Pro racing as of now it is a failure inspite of the new 12 speed 1x.
Thanks for sharing. I personally find this very interesting because with my own experiences riding the 1 x versus the 2x, I can understand a chain coming off on a 2x but not a 1x. Cam
I have had more chain issues with 2x than 1x, though it mostly comes down to how the bike is set up. If your derailleur(s) are set up properly, you have a chain catcher and proper chain length, it's pretty hard to throw a chain regardless of having a derailleur or not. The narrow-wide chainrings you use on 1x hold the chain better than a front derailleur in my experience.
Good insights, thanks for sharing Josh. Cam
Doesn't it also come down to your ability and what you're use to... ie. someone really fit could get by with a 1x big ring vs someone less fit would need the smaller ring (or both).
Yes, agreed. My final statements suggest spending time on getting the gear ratios right for the type of riding you'll be doing. So you're spot on Dan. Cam
Probably is like you said you can't just get on your bike go do a flat fast spin and straight up a long climb, the range just isn't there and that's why it didn't work at pro level or any race level really.
Hi Paul, thanks for the comment. I think it would depend on the course. I reckon it would work very well for some of the classics. I ride here on lumpy terrain and it works super well. However, if you were on a long climbs with an average grad of over 7-8%, then I would want a 2x! Cam
ok, i just subscribed becoz of this video, well done!
Cheers mate, thanks for supporting the channel!
Great video, thanks for the on-road review. Just ordered a Tarmac SL7 with 1x SRAM. A bit nervous but looking forward to the experience. Also, what's the song in the video?
Thanks mate, not sure now. It was made a while back.
@@CamNicholls No worries, love your videos
Hey please post your impressions on that bike. Thinking about getting the same one. Concerned about the limitations of the 46T at speed and vertical.
@@deanf7360 Straight to the point - I’m satisfied - no ride or mechanical issues so far. I love the 1x aesthetic and inclusion of the power meter, and prefer the feel of SRAM shifting over di2. I had the same concerns about gearing, and I compared the SRAM 1x and Shimano 2x ratios before purchase. You can check bikecalc.com for the gearing ratios and speed at cadence. It is possible to convert the 1x into a 2x setup by adding a front derailleur and chainrings but it’s not a trivial cost.
However to be objective here, I think you need to think about your riding style, terrain, and fitness.
To give you some context - I ride mostly solo, flat, rolling terrain (avg ride speed 26-40kph / avg ride distance 20-40km), my steepest grades are 10% average but fairly short, 160-200m average ride ascent. I have not felt limited by gearing on climbs. Downhill I could easily spin out but I don’t like to descend that fast these days so it’s not a concern. I’m a daily rider, but I’d classify myself as recreational. I do not race. My weight is around 70kg.
The jumps in gearing are more noticeable on 1x - especially on the lower end. For my solo riding, this is not a problem, but if you’re in a group this could potentially be an issue if you need to match group pace while keeping your cadence within a tight zone (I’m speculating here, this hasn’t been my experience). A 2x setup also has a bit more “safety” on the lower end for long climbs, and a bit more top end if you like to go fast on downhills or sprints. (The stock di2 has a ratio of 1.2 to 4.73, while the Sram has a ratio of 1.28 to 4.6). It's very close, but I think there's more flexibility with the 2x setup since you can change either of those front rings or the rear cassette.
It is not possible to accommodate both of these extremes with the 1x setup. You can obviously upsize/downsize the front chain ring but you’d be choosing a sacrifice to do it. Overall I’d say that this setup works great for solo riders, moderate performance, general terrain, crits (with bigger chainring). If you compete, ride in groups, hilly terrain, I’d strongly consider the di2 version. They’re both great bikes. I'd make the same decision again. Hope this helps.
@@stevengraham7627 Thanks a lot for your detailed reply, I really appreciate it!
Can you recommend a rear cassette and front chainring combination for a beginner ?
I use a 52t chainring, how can I shift into 11th gear? Do I need a special chain? I am also running 13t pulley wheels, should I switch back to 11t to get into the tallest gear?
I am not familiar with those wheels and set up. All I can tell you is that I have a 52t front and I can get into the 11 very easily on my 1x set up. All the best with it, Cam
I am not familiar with those wheels and set up. All I can tell you is that I have a 52t front and I can get into the 11 very easily on my 1x set up. All the best with it, Cam
I am not familiar with those wheels and set up. All I can tell you is that I have a 52t front and I can get into the 11 very easily on my 1x set up. All the best with it, Cam
Still 2021 1x Systems are not common on Road bike??? Why?
My F12 Dogma has an Ekar 13 Speed... nothing more to say!
I’m a bit of a novice And strongly Considering a one by because I thought it would climb better? I cannot find a Derailer that wheels go bigger than a 36 tooth on the back. But I have no problem finding a Rear derailer that will do 42 teeth on the back. 42 teas is a better climbing gear than a 36 is it not?
Good luck, that really depends on the hills and your legs!
The main disadvantage of a 1x system, that comes to my mind, is the chainline being more off the ideal straight line when using the largest or smallest cogs. That should mean more loss of power compared to a 2x drive. What do you think about chainline efficiency of 1x systems?
You're right it's demonstrably less efficient. 2x is better from that point of view.
@@womplestilskin Thanks. I wouldn't care much when riding for myself or leisurely, but I would hate being dropped by friends with a 2x drive.
@@Martin23673 he doesn’t address it but it’s a really significant loss of watts. Only a straight chain line is excellent efficiency. Dylan Thomas goes over it in one of his gravel race setup videos.
@@womplestilskin Good to know, I am planning to build a gravel bike in autumn and haven't decided on the drive train yet, will check it out.
If you use a "narrow/wide" front chainring there doesn't seem to be as much cross chaining friction. My 1X drivetrain remains quiet despite cross chaining, while the 2X always gets a little louder. I originally converted to 1X due to a left hand injury that made shifting to the big ring painful (mechanical Sram), but doubt I'll ever go back to 2X now.
2x have better top speed right? the 1X bikes top out at 47 to 48KPH in their highest gear, while a 2X or
3X bike will offer 15-20% more speed, topping out at 56 to 57KPH.
Yes, it most instances. You can still get a solid top end gear with 1 X if you really wanted to.
Hey Cam, what size chainring did you use with the 11-32 cassette?
You should ask John Degenkolb what he's thinking about SRAM 1x
I don't know him unfortunately Michael. Otherwise it would have been interesting to hear. Cam
michaelgundi what’s he thinkin??!!
Thanks, Cam.
1x for me. I HATE dealing with the front Mech! Even if it's the nintendo RED Sram AXS one.
Cool insight. I thought 1x was noisier at the ends of the cassette because you’re essentially cross chaining
If you have the right cassette, you will spend most of your time in the middle where it's quietest and most efficient. If you have 1x and are constantly shifting to either extreme of the cassette, the result isn't as extreme as the big-big/little-little combo that is possible on 2x, but that might mean you either need a bigger cassette or 2x would be better.
Well said Josh. I actually only notice some noise when I'm in the 32. Everything else is solid. Cam
Josh Tipton good info, thanks for your perspective my guy
Cam, thanks for the insight on the 1x vs 2x drivetrain. Something that I wondered about is cross-chaining with 11-speed cassettes. Would this be a problem leading to more wear on the drivetrain?
I don't get cross chaining Ron. I was speaking with SRAM AUS post this review and we agreed this was the one thing I left out that was a pro, of the 1x! Cam
In the U.S. "cross-chaining" is when the chain is, for example, on the large chainring in the front and the large gear in the rear cassette thus putting the chain on an extreme angle leading to causing the chain to flex and the gear to wear. Votchewtink, eh? ;-)
RonOnYourLeft Retired same in Aus. I really don’t experience this. Nor does Rob Eva from Sram who also has 1x on his road bike. We were discussing this topic over the phone. The system is designed not to derail so there’s less chain links, a narrow tooth / wide tooth chain rings so the chain sits more snug. The only time I ever notice perhaps a slight amount of cross chaining is when I’m in the 32. But it’s nothing compared to 2x
When will sram add 13 x rear casstette?
I was contemplating a 1x for a future fat bike purchase, but looking at some videos wonder about that 1x derailleur clutch and reliability. From high to low, that's a lot of chain slop variation for a derailleur to deal with, especially if rough riding. I noticed this is much more of a worry in off-road bikes - mtb and fat. Any comments/thoughts? And great video, thanks for posting.
Never had any issues with the chain coming off with 1 X it's so solid and the gear changes are seriously so much better
Hi on the one by system what size do you recommend for road riding thanks in advance cheers!
The way I am using in this video
well said.. and thank you.. I am considering a Kona "Jake the snake" with a 1x40t 11/32t for commuting and camping. I live between Boulder and Denver to give a terrain reference. Would this setup work well? Thank you
Sounds like an ideal set up for your riding but I’m only roughly familiar with the terrain from movies!
@@CamNicholls update. I rode more bikes. the 40t with 11-32 was no good for me. there was no spinning at all. I think i will be getting the GIANT TCX ADVANCED with 40t and 11-42 cassette. This still allowed me plenty of spinning if needed. Thanks for the help and suggestions!
Hey mate
Are you still riding the 1x ??
Is it possible to do this with shimano’s ?
I currently ride a specialized disk pro SL6 with shimano Di2.
I would like to change to a 1 x chain ring
No Aaron, but I would like to be! It's SRAM for road only.
1x systems kinda make no sense , especially with sram , sram uses the yaw system for most of their main road groups , allowing you to use any 2x system as a one 1x , in their words without the negative effects of a full cross chain , so to me the only way to run a 1x with full benefits is to know the exact gears you will need for the ride , so if you have a few chain rings you can just run what ever chain ring you need , but again 1x kinda makes no point , you could look at it as a weight weenie issue , but unless you can move the chain ring out and in the match the position on the cassette you will always be loosing efficiency running 1x no matter what the range is , or gear ratios , you will have to switch gears to match your terrain , and sometimes its not going to be in the strait position , i think the better way to go is for sram to invent a pivot system that move the chain ring out and in to make sure the chain ring is strait at all positions on the cassette , then you would have a really good case to only need one chain ring , rather than investing in silly 12 speeds 13 speeds ect . your 53 ring would be able to carry way more uses for TTs road hills and such , so to me a 1x system shouldn't even need more than 5 gears on the cassette , it seems the 1x effectiveness is reduced because you are trying to use it with a very wide cassette forcing it to loose its efficiency , so they sell it as a larger range , but the range doesn't matter as much if your loosing watts especially in a race , so if they would actually develop a 1x system to be fully 1x add a clutch mech to the rear , it would work , it wouldn't be traditional but a 1x5 or a chain ring that can move should work alot better than a 1x12 or 13 i think anyway :)
Hey cam what are your thoughts on the new Rotor 1X13 Groupset
Looks interesting and I’d be keen to ride it. I haven’t even seen it up close. Have you ridden it?
No I haven’t ridden it but I’ve heard its great but way expensive
I’m beginning to think being a rider that doesn’t race and is more interested in bike packing and endurance riding, 1x is possibly more beneficial....
It's a great system. I miss it so much now it has gone. Cam
@@CamNicholls You can give me your thoughts then.
I'm eyeballing a new bike to do it all. Winter, summer, commuting and weekend adventures! Comes with a 46T front chain ring and a 11-42T cassette?
If you ride in a mostly flat area, then manybe 1x. But saying 1x is optimized for gravel is just ridiculous. If Colin Strickland, the gravel world champion, rides a 2x Dura-ace, then there is every reason to believe 2x is better than 1x. Also never had a chain drop using Di2 over the years.
Thanks for sharing Arthur. I think flat or lumpy terrain is fine. I live in the Sunshine Coast now where it is very lumpy. The 1X works very well here. There was one pinch climb at an average of 15% gradient for 350m. That has been the only time I have prayed for a small chainring! Cam
Stories like this telegraph that I probably made a strategic error with my choice of a 1x gravel drivetrain .. and 1x for road makes sense when you're going aero and your climbs aren't steep :(
1x and 2x can have the same gear range. the trade of is the gear spacing. personally I'm happy to never change front, but I'm super lazy and only ride for fun (no contests)
Let's take a 48t front chainring and 42t sprocket (supported by long cage by x Sram road / gravel derailleurs). Are you saying it's less facilitative of an easy climb than a 38t front and 16t rear? Of course it isn't! The only real disadvantage of 1x systems is that greater steps between the gears, not the overal range. Another likely disadvantage may (for may not) be a greater chain wear. But those are about all the disadvantages of a 1x system.
I wouldn't hesitate to choose a 1x if Sram had a Force eTap AXS with the largest cassette sprocket exceeding 38t. Unfortunately, the crooks at Sram had rather that you buy an Eagle AXS derailleur (ca. €800-900), a ca. 50t max cassette (another €200-400) and an Eagle AXS chain on top of shelling €2.000 or more on eTap AXS in order to run a 1x system on drop bar frames.
Speaking of 2x - My Sram Force eTap AXS keeps dropping chains on upshifts (and occasionally, even on downshifts) like mad - some 4 times out of 10 upshifts. Outrageous! I've never experienced anything like it prior to My eTap 2x acquisition. No groupset - from the bottom-end one to the finest top-tier groupsets - should EVER drop a chain on shifts! It's particularly outrageous that the second best of Sram should do, never mind as often as it does! Also, the front shifts - when they work - are damn slow often. Preposterous. Criminal.
@@kevinpunter7960 Force 1. A 10-42 cassette, a long cage derailleur. Unless the chainring up front is over 53T, I don't see how a 42t cassette sprocket is less suitable for climbing than, say, a standard 28t one, combined with a 32 (or thereabouts small chainring). Use a gear ratio or gear speed calculator. You want easier climbs than a, say, 46 front and 42 rear - go 3x with a particularly small granny gear and about as large rear sprocket as a 3x can take.
I am more worried about top and bottom gear. A 1x makes no sense if you want the best of both.
Can you say something about wear&tear on the chain and cassette? I've heard a lot of people say that the chain and the cassette need replacing much more frequently with a 1x drivetrain due to the chain crossing more. That is probably the one thing that has been keeping me from switching, but I'm not even sure how much truth there is to this claim.
If you'll benefit from a 1x then its probably worth the extra cost every year. This is really splitting hairs, if you can afford to convert to a decent 1x set up you can afford a new chain every season.
Well done
Top speed?
The best thing about a 1x is getting rid of the worst designed bike part ..the front derailleur.....
100%
I really want a 1x, really expensive to get all the parts though...
Yes! I agree
Couldn't agree more.
Cheers Simon. Cam
Thoroughly fed up with constant misshifts, slow shifts, etc., I was determined to move to a 1x system. Other riders kept discouraging Me from doing that, especially for loaded tours.
A week ago I received My new gravel bike (a Salsa WarBird 2019), 2 x (50-34, with an 11-34 cassette).
There are quite a few steep climbs in the vicinity of where I live. I climbed one of those: no way I'd make it to the top with a 1x, unless it has a 34 teeth or less front and 34 teeth or more in the largest cassette sprocket. Which would effectively mean a max. speed of ca. 25km/h or less on the flats. No, thank you very much.
Electric groupset, thankfully, eliminate most of 2x / 3x issues without compromising range. Let's see how the Force eTap AXS 48-35 fares compared to mechanical groupsets…
Thanks for sharing your experiences Leo. Cam
@@CamNicholls You're welcome, Cam. Thank you.
Can a force 22 be converted to single?
I don't for the life of me understand why a road cyclist would need more than 10 gears? I'm not talking about the pros, but just us mere mortals.
Noise in 1x system is very terrible than a 2x system it's sounds like coffee grinder in both ends of the Cassette.
1x for European climbs avg 8-13% no way dude
haha, fair call Harvey. I wouldn't either if that was your weekly riding area. Cam
@@CamNicholls No good for the ACT either due to our climbs either being long, with steep pinches, or short sharp monsters. Depending on your set up you would be stuck with either having to grind up the pinches or be dropped off on the descents.
James Jordan that’s why you have two bikes! 2X for climbs and 1x for crits and fast bunch rides 😍
@@CamNicholls I dont think my garage will fit another bike, plus there is the who;le S-1 thing
@@wubble666 Haha, lots of climbing in the big canberra bike ride.
Cam. to the best of My knowledge, not all Sram groups have a 1x sub-group. The Red, for instance, hasn't. Not yet, that is.
Correct Red doesn't. The new AXS does though!
1x is the single dumbest invention for cycling in history. Especially for road bikes. You give up low range. You give up high range. Most importantly, you give up manageable steps between gears. Absolutely stupid.
Your frame looks so small.
WHOOPEE
PLEASURE
Having 12 or 11 speeds is better then a 22 or even 24 speeds ya right 💩
On a typical 2x 11 setup, about one third of your gear combinations are either duplicates or are inaccessible due to cross chaining. This means with a 22 speed bike, you only have about 14ish unique gear ratios at your disposal. This begs the question: "why deal with all the cons of 2x mentioned in the video if it only gives you 2 or 3 more gears?". If you live in a flat area, and only race flat crits for example, you can do away with the little ring and get a smoother drivetrain, easier use, easier maintenance, and improved aerodynamics. Sure, you lose some gear options, but it's actually more like 3 fewer gears, not 11 or 12. If you live in a flat area, chances are you probably don't use your lowest three gears, so you don't really miss out on anything. If you live in a mountainous area and need low gears for going up and high gears for going down, then 2x might be right.
@@joshtipton7417 if the Chain is not Strait there will be great lost of energie transmited só if using x1 you only have 4 speeds where you Will not be losing energie.
@@ruiteixeira1594 With 1x, the chainring is in the center of the chainline, compared to 2x where it is offside a bit on each side. If you are in the wrong chainring with 2x the chain will be a lot less straight then it ever could with 1x. For example, having the chain in the far left chainring and far right cassette is a much greater problem than the slight angle you get in 1x.
Trying too much to sell it!!!
Go tell that to the pros of the pro tour and cyclocross!!!
Really bad video, just trying to sell it for Sram...
No ratio comparison, no cassette vs chainring options, just a bad video for young and ignorant cyclist!
Really had more expectations...
I think I’d been doing RUclips for about 8-9 months at this time, I was learning. Gotta start somewhere. But thanks deeply criticising a five year old video. 😂
Interesting, thanks. Do you know that God loves ya. His only begotten Son, the Lord Jesus, died for our sins on the cross and rose from the dead on the third day. If we REPENT and believe + trust in Lord Jesus, we can be saved. ❤️ From hell and lake of fire, to everlasting LIFE.
I have a tarmac SL7 pro with SRAM force etap 1x . Chainring 46 and Cassette 10-36t. If I want to upgrade to 2x system, should I upgrade to chainring 46/33t or 48/35t?
Depends on many things. Personally I would always go 52/36 so at least go 48
Noise in 1x system is very terrible than a 2x system it's sounds like coffee grinder in both ends of the Cassette.