100 Years of Classic Menswear - and what we can learn from each decade
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2020
- I discuss representative suit outfits of each decade from the 1920s up until the 2000s and the classic menswear situation today.
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Please do a tour of your home. Your interior design looks just as interesting and cool as your style!
I love how you are really polite but are doing a very subtle roast 😂 I agree that the denim invasion is quite sad too
I'd love to see a James Bond fashion review.
Duly noted
Vintagebursche James Bond isn’t exactly the best example of proper classic menswear he is just probably the most identifiable one .
@@spotsill Sean Connery had some killer looks tho, the grey Goldfinger suit with the desert boots and knitted tie was surely something
Mr Duke Silver agreed and I think it comes down to what you consider vintage style. If you like the postwar 1950’s- mid 60’s style and fits than I totally agree with you . But i prefer the post World War One through 1940’s style and James Bond style always reflects the area of the movie is made . Davids or Sean style would never work for for or be relevant on Daniel Craig so it was updated in the remakes . Great style is great style depending on the context and era .
Awesome rundown. 20s to 50s was truly the golden age of style and class.
Agreed
I disagree 50's were too boxy. Makes the suit look cheap and mass produced.
20s to 40s to be precise.
I would have liked to hear more about the 80s onward. I know there is this nostalgia about the good bygone era of classic menswear, but I bet they have also looked down on the previous 1-3 decades. I agree that were few, especially in the 2000 who followed the classic style, but I hope to hear about them.
Lovely to see more vintage clothing information on youtube for men. Keen to hear more about casual styles from a European perspective, particularly the 'gap' between workwear and sartorial fashion.
I would love to know more about men’s workwear because I live in quite a rural area and while I do love wearing more nice clothing about town my day to day is often spent in somewhat stereotypical farm labour or doing community nursing jobs which can be…uh somewhat messy and laborious as I often will go an assess homes but since I am handy I also will repair things and assess things that are not up to code or safe for the patient or family living there especially if they are renters.
Knowing about some vintage fashion that is more interesting and works well with my more sustainable lifestyle would be nice as I like to make a lot of my wardrobe or save for pieces to be made. The fishtail trousers from straight trousers and making a transition from belts to suspenders for comfort.
The very end "outtakes" and your comment 'Don't take yourself too seriously" are my favorite part of this video. I agree about denim-in my childhood you wore it to clean the barn LOL
Would be great if you could make a series of videos about different body shapes and tips what to wear for them. You mentioned this style icon for short guys. What about tall small guys?
Duly noted
Thank you for sharing Edward Sexton's 13 rules of style. I plan to share these rules with my tailor. Just another set of rules to live by. I am glad I subscribed to your channel. Thank you!
I agree. The 40's were the best!
I’m glad to see a video that was less judgmental of each decades... up until the 70s. I wish you could have talked a little more about the preferred silhouette for the later eras, where that came from aesthetically, or maybe a more positive note could be what it paved the way for. For example, yes, I personally find the combination of a black blazer with jeans ugly, but it challenged the lines established between “casual” and “business” and to me it seems clear that this challenge paved the way for the return of non-black suits and eventually the return of tweed. There’s always a silver lining ;)
This is super useful - thank you! Especially loved the reference to Sexton's rules of style, which I looked up and will bear in mind for my future menswear makes.
Sir..your videos are going from strength to strength this is something that I have never covered before so brilliant, the outtakes mean like all of us you just like to get it spot-on ... cheer buddy
This was a great overview! Loved it!
The way you summarised each decade made me subscribe.
Love your channel and knowledge! Love from a vintage lover in Norway ❤️❤️
Love the video! Can you give a video on how toe shape of shoes (round, almond, square, chisel...) affects formality and when / where they were began? And anything else to say about them!
Keep it up! 👍
great overview! expanding this series with the outfits from 1820-1920 would be very interesting
Wow! Such a great video! I’m glad to see mad men! I’m huge fan!!
I learned a lot in this video!
Great video, thank you!
A home tour would be great!!
I hope some youngsters get inspired by your vibe, masculine look and classy timeless gentleman lifestyle in this modern age.
Awesome video, I would like to second the recommendation about making a video series about different body shapes and tips what to wear for them. You mentioned this style icon for short guys. What about tall small guys?
Great video my friend. It´s very good to know more about fashion.
Hello! Now that you covered most of the last century, could you do a video on the formal morning wear and style of the 19th century? Would be an amazing topic, especially focusing on the history of our garments today! Liebe grüße!
19h century menswear is not exactly my field, so maybe I will cover that, but probably not in the near future.
Man! That suit is amazing!
The outro was very informative, danke schon *.*
I really enjoy your videos. I would love to hear your thoughts on classic womenswear, too.
You should talk about celebrity suits
this was great, I shared it around. Any chance in future of covering the previous 100 years and see how we got where we are? perhaps even going back to Beau Brummell!
Great video. I have just discovered your channel and I am enjoying it...
Hi. I really enjoy your videos. Exactly what I am looking for, especially the peaky blinders period kind of style. Could you so a video for larger men (The pot bellied kind) and how we can, if possible, fit into the style during that period. Thank you
I agree with most of what you said, but denim under a sport coat is a great way to go casual without too much thought.
You should make a video about all these styles in depth, the 70s onr is my personal favourite
finally a man! yay! my wife linked me and I am hooked, ever since peaky blinders, I want to change my style. what I really did miss in the 80s section, was the opposite of the power suit. the unlined linnen and cotton suits in often pastel colours. the miami vice armani suit.
Please a video of body types and suggested styles. 😊love your content - greetings from Munich 😉
Das war ganz genau! Vielen dank!
The loss of the slim ties and lapels in the chest of Draper is truly insightful. Connery’s Bond sometimes seemed to have this problem in the 60s as well.
One very interesting period in menswear is in the UK between 1942 and 1952. Called Utility and marked with a CC41 symbol clothing and other goods were strictly controlled in terms of materials. No more than three buttons on a coat for example. Trouser turn-ups were also abolished but met so much consumer resistance that they had to be reintroduced. A fascinating experiment in managing consumer demand.
Oh I hadn’t heard of Sextons work! As a trans dude and half Vietnamese I am short for most American menswear as we can be quite a range of sizes (I’ve had patients over 7 ft tall 😅 idk what they’re feeding these kids! Lol) thank you for bringing him to my attention so I can look more into him.
As soon as I mentioned it to my father on our evening call he said “of course! His advice is legendary for us! 😂” he’s been enjoying your channel now too 😊
Although I'm not man 😂 but I much enjoyed watching your all videos. Keep it up ❤
Wieder ein sehr gutes Video 😀 vielen Dank. Ich finde es gut, wenn Du Deine ganz subjektive Meinung sagst.
Vintage man，I love！
Nice video, but the final part even more beautiful!
Very interesting.
The modern slim suits of the 2010s are hell to wear on me, a bigger guy. Low waisted skinny chinos, skin tight jackets. Can't say I'm a fan. However, I think the pairing of nice, dark wash jeans with a white shirt and open vest is a good casual look that still looks intentional and put together. It certainly beats a t shirt in any case. I'd love to see what you have to say about working class clothing through the decades. I'm a manual laborer but I'd love to find something professional to wear to work that isn't a hi-viz cutoff tee.
I think Draper looks awesome in the 60s style suits.
I enjoy watching you, and all the handsome men!
I would like to see a Video about Accessoires and other things that can make an Outfits unique. Also things that are style breakers like the peaky blinders hat in combination with a suit.
Noted
Douglas Hayward’s 60s tailoring is the epitome of that decades style..see Michael Caine in The Italian Job.
The slim waste hourglass shape suit can be achieved even for larger body types if its a bespoke suit and the tailor is experienced and skilled
Very interesting and informative video. My favorite style is the 1920s, and I think it is your favorite, too. Unfortunately, it is very hard for me to find cloths with that fit and I usually end up buying generic suits - of which I only like the color - simply because they are widely available and inexpensive. Speaking of color, this is the first time I see you wearing blue. It does suit you. What I am wondering is what color were your shoes. I saw your shoe collecting in a previous video and you did not own any blue shoes if I remember well. Anyway, I wish I could look just like you. However, I guess I must admit I am a little lazy, which, as you said before, is a problem with no easy solution. I would love if there were reliable sellers online with reasonable prices. I usually don’t trust ebay - though I know it works sometimes.
I personally don't like anything much after about 1934 in menswear, but that's just my taste. However there were some massive changes that I think you've brushed over which I'd consider important and I hope you won't mind me outlining. These are just my observations, so take from them what you will.
There was also a menswear style popular around the western world which comes after the late teens and early twenties look you show, but before the wide shoulder look of the later thirties. From roughly late 1923 until 1934 there's another whole look.
The biggest changes between the styles are things such as the shoulder shape. For example the late teens and early twenties aim for a noticable slope from the (higher sitting) neck to the the shoulders (which are also very rounded). The later twenties have a much flatter looking shoulder than before but still very rounded shoulders. Also, until the mid '30s there is rarely any drape (overhang) from the top of a sleeve as almost every style of jacket after this time has had. Before the mid twenties many shoulder seams slope off the neck down the back slightly. There'll be a tailoring term, for this, but I'm uncertain of what it is. By the mid twenties shoulder seams along the top of the shoulder are becoming much more common and by the mid 30s the off the shoulder style only seems to appear in some evening wear and formal wear such as morning dress. By the 40s this style of seams off the top of the shoulder has virtually gone completely.
And the position of the waist has seen a huge change over the decades. Until the mid 1930s the waist line sits at the natural waistline (roughly belly button line). Both the late 30s and 40s see this rise much higher - at times almost halfway between the natural waist and the armpits (or higher). The 1950s sees it lower to the natural waist again. Almost everything from the 1960s onwards has the trouser waist sitting lower than the natural waist (essentially what were called hipsters when introduced have become the norm). The '50s also sees hats and waistcoats becoming optional and as a consequence of the latter, ties become much longer.
As well as a change in waistline, trouser cut and shape change markedly. The late teens and early twenties are mostly pleatless and taper quite a bit. Turn Ups (cuffs) are common but reveal the socks. The later twenties are quite straight legged and influenced by the oxford bag craze and socks aren't visible - although trousers aren't long enough to have a break in the crease caused by the length at the front crease touching the shoe as has since become popular. In the early thirties they get more shapely and slightly tapered before becoming straighter again in the later thrities. The zoot suit styles of the 40s start to influence regular suits in the mid and late 40s, especially the trousers which in some parts of the world get quite full (similar to the early 1990s) before returning to a less exagerated style in the 1950s. Turn-ups also start to dissappear as the 50s progress.
Shirt styles changed considerably also. The neck bands of all shirts before the late 20s sit much higher and straighter than shirts since (including those of today). This better accomodates the then popular detachable collars. Soft (both attached and detachable)and sports collars in the late '20s started to move lower down the neck and this began to become more the normal shape we have today by the mid thrities (even with deatchable collars). The hundreds of different collar shapes and designs of the 20s have reduced in number and become much more uniform point style by the middle 1930s. Existing styles such as French cuffs and new ones such as spread style collars, and the use of marcella fabric for formal wear shirts etc (rather than starched cotton or cambric) start to appear in the early 1930s largely through the influence of Edward, Prince of Wales.
Ties (regular cloth style rather than the knitted styles) in general begin to become much flatter and take on a less scarf-like shape after the new construction methods introduced in late 1926 gain popularity. These get much wider at the lower end in the 30s and 40s but as waistcoats are still standard and waistlines high, remain relatively short.
Cufflinks are only chain, stud or (between 1916 and 1942 when they seem to have stopped making them) snap style. The cross-bar style now common was only introduced in the late 1940s.
There are also other things to consider such as the whole cut of the back of jackets (including the use of pleats), the wearing of braces or belts and how trousers made for them differ, pocket and vent placement and the number of vents and pockets in jackets, the relative length of jackets and waistcoats (and corresponding vents).. Change in waistcoat cut and style from the fitted look of the teens, to the long points of the early twenties,shorter peaks in the 30s and 40s, and the double breasted look especially popular in the early thirties. Weights of fabric also changed significantly in the 1950s as much lighter fabrics became popular along with the introduction of synthetics and blends.
What do you think about Mod Style (1964 more or less)?
Thank you for all your videos!!
I like 30's-50's suits. I also like the 80's "power suits", which were sort of like a throwback to 1930's suits. These styles of suits would be considered baggy today, but I prefer that over a tight suit with trousers that taper so much that they end up hugging your ankles (I don't even know how this style became a thing. It looks ridiculous). Also, I live in the UK and we're very boring when it comes to colours. Like, if your suit isn't black, dark grey/silver or navy, people (especially employers) will think you're unusual. I guess it's like this in most of Europe though outside of Southern Europe. It's strange though because here in the UK back in the 1920's up until the 2000's, suits in lighter shades weren't that uncommon. It seems like there's a trend towards most people wearing black over here now for some reason. Like, it seems as though every company's uniform consists of a black polo shirt with black trousers nowadays. I find it really boring and quite unappealing, to be honest. I'd much rather see more khaki work uniforms like you see in the US.
Hello Niklas, may I ask where did you acquire the lovely three piece suit you are sporting in this video?
This is exactly the kind of suit I would like to buy.
Just discovered your channel and its fun and informative content. But the background music in this video is mixed way too loudly. Near the end of the main video, it became so loud that it was drowning out your narration and made the video hard to comprehend. Other than that, great job!
Hi As u can see even form the pic, I'm an hat lover and collector, so here is my question: how important is the hat in man's look form 1920's till now? Is it still here to stay or what?
Thanks for your attention to me
Hello, I will make it clear to you. In the 1920s-1940s no self-respecting man would dare to leave a house without a hat. It was that important to have anything on the head - a flat cap or fedora, Homburg etc. Since then hats started loosing its popularity. Nowadays hats are so rarely seen on the streets because the fashion became so relaxed that you can wear even a potato sack... However this is a very classic and elegant accessory. Wearing a hat (with proper attire) can easily elevate your appearance and I myself own 2 hats which I love combining with suit and trench coat. Greetings !
Great video! Maybe the sack suit of the 80's (which resulted in the baggy cuts of the early 90's, as you mentioned) could be added.
I'd also like to point out, that these extreme swings in terms of style mainly affected the "mainstream", more fashion forward branch of men's clothing; high end RTW and bespoke tailoring stuck to balance and minor adjustments over the decades (for the most part, at least - Sexton was seen as rather flamboyant back then). A Caraceni suit from the 60's for example looked pretty much like one from the 70's, 90's and so on.
That's why I added the disclaimer. I don't consider this collection complete. 😉
@@Vintagebursche Klärchen. Aber für's Vervollständigen haste nunmal uns - deine "Kommentarburschen". ;)
Can you please make a video about late Victorian-Edwardian fashion. There a hundreds about women’s dress but I have not been able to find many about men. Danke shön!
Noted
Being tall and slim I definitely see myself in 1920s! :)
Aber was hälst du von so 60er Preppy Ivy zeug? Also Sack Suits, Penny Loafers mit weißen Socken, Rep Ties und so?
I really like the lapel cut in the 1940s that's more horisontal than today on the double breasted suits!
Can I ask what is the name of the short guy wearing large lapel who has some rules to be Googled for in 6:24
💫
❤️
I like the wide shoulders on the 1930s suits. I like the 40s too.
Whatever you wear, you really need a hat to set it off. I guess I am one of the last of the hat wearers, been wearing one since the late 70s. My favourite is an Akubra, but you need to be a bit eccentric to carry that off, fortunately I am :)
So you prefer early Italian 20s suits?
Astaire and Sinatra were from different eras. Astaire 20s-40s. Sinatra 40s-mid 60s. Most people know Sinatra in sack suits, pork pie hats, and simple tuxedos. Astaire was much more refined and more of a style icon. imo
1930 me encanta
Please do roasts about celebrities outfits ;)
Haha, I'll think about it.
Sears, selfridges, other catalogs carried ready to wear suits.
What’s the difference between peaky blinders suit and now 2020 normal business suit? Actually I like peaky (20’s) style but I can’t find any suit for that.what do you think about that?
That's something I should cover in another video.
Hi Sir. Could you kindly tell me where you find your suits? They are so beautyful.
Just check the link in the description. 🙂
I subscribe
What about the '40s?
Ein sehr schönes Video! Toll mal unterschiedliche Stile in einem Video zu sehen.
Was halten sie vom Stresemann Anzug?
MfG
An sich schön, aber wenn man sich hervortun möchte, würde ich gleich zum Cut greifen.
Vintagebursche
Danke für die schnelle Antwort!
Also wäre ein Stresemann als Trauzeuge wohl zu auffällig?
@@ChaosBigBoss1 Das kommt auf die Vorstellungen des Brautpaars an. Eine generelle Regel dazu existiert nicht.
in your opinion, what will be the next fashion of the 2020’s ?
My guess is that classic menswear will become pretty diverse and I think after years of unstructured Italian style jackets, we will get some structure back.
Vintagebursche at least I hope it will be a little less slim. I have some slim suits that I can’t wear anymore after taking 3 Kg.
I also wear shorts with a blazer in summer evenings.
Fit and a style that will compliment your body type and height and I have yet to find that in classic menswear 😖. Shorter than average but muscular and thicker than average (not fat) . I prefer the prewar styles but after seeing this video maybe the 1950’s suit ? Everything will make me look short and wide unfortunately I look best in class prewar workwear in spite of my love of suits and all of the great accessories of the period . You can own Art Deco cuff links and never wear them 😂👍🏻.
Ich bin grad auf einen early 1900 3-teiler - am liebsten in stabilerem braunen pinstripe dieser zeit - aus. Habe 1 erschwingliche option gefunden, die mir Boba aber nicht passen wird. Wahrscheinlich wird's auf bespoke hinauslaufen...damals war alles besser 😜
Deine Outakes sind sehr
we peaked in the 20s
I'm not a tailor or anything, but jee wizz, there is something about suits from the 1920s to the 1940s. The proportions are spot on. Even the 1950s looked much better than todays. I just find todays modern suits look tiny, slim and boring. Even the shirts - tiny collars! Whats going on?
Sehr informativ danke , kurze Frage ist Herr S. Hoofs dein Bruder ?
Haha, nein.
Vintagebursche wie sollte man mit dem „persönlichen stylen „ anfangen so dass man den Grundstein legt? Gibt es irgendwelche Tipps? Gruß aus Aachen
@@ismailyonlu8317 Kann ich mal ein Video zu machen. Das ist nicht in zwei Sätzen erklärt.
Homework for today 😂
🤷🏻♀️
He seems to be gui bo junior
The absolute bullying of the 90s/2000s 😂😂
1 Like for the outtakes.
Of the illustrations shown,1940's are a stand out for giving men a wonderful presence. Sad to see how badly society has fallen apart today. Most people look as though they just escaped from occupied Poland.
Lieber docs,Hosenträger und Polohemd
Mein persönlicher Favorit sind ja die 1920er, schade dass man sowas heute praktisch nirgends mehr tragen kann, da ist man ja bei vielen Anlässen sofort "overdressed".
Einfach machen!
I'm not much of a big fan of double breasted jackets/vest that's just my personal preference.
What gets me off, is that today in the 21st Century Men's jackets have become so short, they reveal the buttocks, Men´s trousers have become so short socks are showing ... one is inclined to believe producers are only saving fabric ... ?!?!
Uhm ähm uhm uhm uhm äähm BORING 😂
Jesus, 1920´s was hella cool, then the 30´s were horrendous and horrible looking, what happened
Standard 70s and 90s are the most horrible styles.