This is my latest version of a fingerboard radius jig. In my quest to find an easier and more accurate way of radiusing fingerboards, I came up with this tool.
I am making a parts list to build my version of this jig as I watch this. This is the most comprehensive radius jig ive seen. Thankyou for sharing the design! Peace.
Your very welcome. That's why we do these videos, right? I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I've made improvement to this jig as well, if you haven't seen it, you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/ecA3hGHKzB4/видео.html Thanks for watching!
@@lesperanceguitars8381 thanos for the update brother. I will check it out and yes, this is exactly why we do the videos. I love this man. I'm so glad I found your channel. I look at this much the same way you do. I like to build these things myself. No sense in paying someone else to build what we can do for way less money! ✌️
Cool jig - thanks for making the video. One thing to mention (in case I missed it in your video) is that the radius of the fretboard is at the level of the wood. This means the sled's radius must be greater to compensate for the distance between the sled surface and the wood. So, for example, if cutting a 12" radius, curved surface of the sled is 2" above that, the sled must be cut to a 14" radius. Is this your understanding also?
That is correct. I think I might have mentioned it In the latest video I made on an improved version. "Build a better radius jig". I moved on to using a Grizzly radius sander since. Good luck making your version and thanks for watching!
Nice design! Would you be able to give some measurements for this? Much appreciated if you are not to busy. It would make it a lot easier. Thank you, Bradley P
I don't remember those measurements because I designed a new jig. Check out my other video "Build a better fingerboard radius jig!" here: ruclips.net/video/ecA3hGHKzB4/видео.html. The dimensions for the base are 36" X 15" and the center neck mounting area is 32" X 5", doubled up. All 3/4" plywood construction. It is capable of radiusing bass and six string necks. I hope this will get you started.
GREAT LOOKING JIG. Question 1: It seems to slide in all directions smoothly. I didnt see any bearings or Nylon pads. Do you have the plywood sanded smooth, with maybe wax on it or something? Questions 2: If your goal is a 12" Radius. Does the curves on your plywood have to be a bit more of a radius - I am assuming the bit has to be set down a ways below the actual curve of the your wood. Maybe I'm not explaining it well...Does the Radius of the jig have to be cut to 12.5", if I am going to have my router bet set to cut 0.5" below the path of curve in the jig. I am assuming its a smaller radius the furher down the router bit is below that circumference.
Yes, I do have the wood sanded very smooth and all surfaces are waxed where they slide together. As far as the radius, you are correct in your assumption. I have since improved the radius jig and I explain it in a newer video. Look for "Build a better fingerboard radius jig" on my channel.. In that video I route a 10" radius. The actual radius of the sled and router base is 11.5". The distance of the bit from the jig radius to the surface of the fingerboard is 1.5". So, that makes the actual radius taking place at the fingerboard 10" .I hope I've been helpful and thanks for watching!
My intentions were never to build and sell this jig. I got the idea from watching other builders on you tube and re-engineered it to work for my necks. I look at it as someone else will see this idea and re-engineer it to suit their building style. As a matter of fact, I've re-engineered it into another version in this video: ruclips.net/video/ecA3hGHKzB4/видео.html. I've had a few requests so I'm looking into purchasing a program that will allow me to make a build sheet on both ideas and put it in a PDF format. I think that would be the best way to go about this. I'll make an announcement if this works out. Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure exactly where I bought it but it is similar to this one. I hope this is helpful. carbideprocessors.com/cove-nose-spiral-bit-1-2-dia-1-1-4-cut-length-1-2-shank-southeast-tool-scn155/
Hi mate, there's something that bothers me - is the radius of the guide same as the radius of the freboard or do you need to compensate for how far your router bit sticks out?
Sorry, I didn't make up any plans for this. It is basically based of of the style necks that I build. There could be so many variables to this equipment depending on the type neck. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this video you gave me a great idea to make the radious. Greetings from Argentina you are GOOD very very GOOD .GENIUSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Awsome! I have another upgraded version video. See it here - ruclips.net/video/ecA3hGHKzB4/видео.html Thanks for watching!
I am making a parts list to build my version of this jig as I watch this. This is the most comprehensive radius jig ive seen. Thankyou for sharing the design! Peace.
Your very welcome. That's why we do these videos, right? I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I've made improvement to this jig as well, if you haven't seen it, you can find it here: ruclips.net/video/ecA3hGHKzB4/видео.html Thanks for watching!
@@lesperanceguitars8381 thanos for the update brother. I will check it out and yes, this is exactly why we do the videos. I love this man. I'm so glad I found your channel. I look at this much the same way you do. I like to build these things myself. No sense in paying someone else to build what we can do for way less money! ✌️
Thanks for sharing & inspiration!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching and please share as well. Pease!
Pure genius sir.
I have an updated version of this in a later video. "Build a better fingerboard radius jig!" check it out. Thanks for watching!
Cool jig - thanks for making the video. One thing to mention (in case I missed it in your video) is that the radius of the fretboard is at the level of the wood. This means the sled's radius must be greater to compensate for the distance between the sled surface and the wood. So, for example, if cutting a 12" radius, curved surface of the sled is 2" above that, the sled must be cut to a 14" radius. Is this your understanding also?
That is correct. I think I might have mentioned it In the latest video I made on an improved version. "Build a better radius jig". I moved on to using a Grizzly radius sander since. Good luck making your version and thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing your jig! I'm in the process of re-thinking my setup and hope you don't mind my borrowing from your design :)
Not a problem. You may come up with a better set up than mine. I'm currently upgrading my set up as well. Video coming soon. Thanks for watching!
Nice design!
Would you be able to give some measurements for this? Much appreciated if you are not to busy. It would make it a lot easier.
Thank you,
Bradley P
I don't remember those measurements because I designed a new jig. Check out my other video "Build a better fingerboard radius jig!" here: ruclips.net/video/ecA3hGHKzB4/видео.html. The dimensions for the base are 36" X 15" and the center neck mounting area is 32" X 5", doubled up. All 3/4" plywood construction. It is capable of radiusing bass and six string necks. I hope this will get you started.
GREAT LOOKING JIG.
Question 1: It seems to slide in all directions smoothly. I didnt see any bearings or Nylon pads. Do you have the plywood sanded smooth, with maybe wax on it or something?
Questions 2: If your goal is a 12" Radius. Does the curves on your plywood have to be a bit more of a radius - I am assuming the bit has to be set down a ways below the actual curve of the your wood. Maybe I'm not explaining it well...Does the Radius of the jig have to be cut to 12.5", if I am going to have my router bet set to cut 0.5" below the path of curve in the jig. I am assuming its a smaller radius the furher down the router bit is below that circumference.
Yes, I do have the wood sanded very smooth and all surfaces are waxed where they slide together. As far as the radius, you are correct in your assumption. I have since improved the radius jig and I explain it in a newer video. Look for "Build a better fingerboard radius jig" on my channel.. In that video I route a 10" radius. The actual radius of the sled and router base is 11.5". The distance of the bit from the jig radius to the surface of the fingerboard is 1.5". So, that makes the actual radius taking place at the fingerboard 10" .I hope I've been helpful and thanks for watching!
@@lesperanceguitars8381 that explains I lot! I am impressed that we were able to formulate and communicate that idea of the radius. The 👍🏽🎶
If you would be for you to make one for me, how much would you charge me for this jig?
My intentions were never to build and sell this jig. I got the idea from watching other builders on you tube and re-engineered it to work for my necks. I look at it as someone else will see this idea and re-engineer it to suit their building style. As a matter of fact, I've re-engineered it into another version in this video: ruclips.net/video/ecA3hGHKzB4/видео.html. I've had a few requests so I'm looking into purchasing a program that will allow me to make a build sheet on both ideas and put it in a PDF format. I think that would be the best way to go about this. I'll make an announcement if this works out. Thanks for watching!
Cool setup! That neck turned out nice. What is the make and model of the 1/2 inch end mill you are using?
I'm not sure exactly where I bought it but it is similar to this one. I hope this is helpful. carbideprocessors.com/cove-nose-spiral-bit-1-2-dia-1-1-4-cut-length-1-2-shank-southeast-tool-scn155/
@@lesperanceguitars8381 I will forward to my friend who is just getting started using a neck jig. Thanks for your help.
@@dastardlydave1455 You're very welcome!
Hi mate, there's something that bothers me - is the radius of the guide same as the radius of the freboard or do you need to compensate for how far your router bit sticks out?
You'll need to compensate.
Do you have the plans :D?
Amazing job!
Sorry, I didn't make up any plans for this. It is basically based of of the style necks that I build. There could be so many variables to this equipment depending on the type neck. Thanks for watching.